media0.webgarden.com4dd6a0f2183e6.pdf.upl/… · Coasts or trough is the wave height (Figure 7. I)....
15
media0.webgarden.com4dd6a0f2183e6.pdf.upl/… · Coasts or trough is the wave height (Figure 7. I). As waves approach the shore they appear steeper and the oscillatory movement is