400 JOlIN JEFFERSON AN D OTHERS, IN

highly exemplary and animating to all hisbrethren; wbo, indeed, did not fail to appreciatehig worth, and laid him in the grave in this re­mote island of the sea, witb many regrets andsolemn reflections.

With tbe death of Mr. J eirerson may be saidto have ended the original mission to Tahiti.­Although the illness of the king interrupted for ashort period the war which had been rekindled,and suffered the Missionaries to go on with theirlabours" two of tbeir number taking opportunityto make a preaching excursion to the neighbour­ing islands of H unbine, Raiutia, and Barbora,­yet the general dissatisfaction of the people withPomare's government was so strong, that it soonagain manifested itself to the evident danger ofthe mission. While things continued in this stateof vex.atious uncertainty, on the 25th of October,1808, a vessel from Port Jackson fortunately castanchor in Matavai bay, and thus at least affordedthe alarmed Missionaries the means of flying fromthe island, if the war should drive them to thisextremity. The war did soon assume an appear­ance which rendered this painful step quite neces­sary. After the Missionaries and their families

THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.. ..401

had, warned by the king, been forced to takerefuge on board the ship in the bay, and thenreturned to their home, vainly hoping for a timeto be left in safety; the result of their IJ.lanyharassments was, that the whole of their number,saving two, abandoned the mission, and on the26th of October, 1809, took their last departurefrom the island of Huahine, whither they had.ned some months before.

The king, in ~he Olean time, had been expelledfrom Tahiti and forced to take refuge in theisland of Eimeo, where he now lived 1n exile.The two MIssionaries who remained, with a viewto perseverance, were a M.t. Nott, who lived inEimeo with the king, and a Mr. Hayward, whowas left In Huahine, from which the body of theMissionaries had sailed for Port Jackson. Pre 4

vious to this, and shortly after the departure ofthe Missionary body °from Tahiti, they had thepain to hear of the total destruction of theirwhole settlement by the rebels in that island, theerection and cultivation of which had cost them somuch labour, and also of the dispersing of theirthankless pupils, with whom they had long taken80 much pains. All their labours seemed now to

2112

402 JOnN JEFVERSON AND or m~ns, IN

have gone for nought" and thus ended" for thepresent at least" a Missionary colony" which badcontinued its labours in Tahiti for nearly thirteen

years.

When the news of this second" and apparently

fatal" disaster to the South Sea MissioD" arrivedill England" the sensation created was great andextensive. All who had originally opposed thescheme" or looked doubtfully upon its prospec­*ive successJ were now convinced of its entire

folly" and loudly exclaimed against thos~ whohad heen most anxious in its promotion. The

splendid pictures which some had" at the outset,drawn, in anticipation of what their own inmgi­

nations conceived was about to be done in theSouth Sea" were now quoted in derision agains-tthemselves; and the Missionary Society" in Lon­

don" and all its supporters" received now thecommon usage with whieh want of success is

vibited by the world. The direetols" however"were not totally disheartened; and knowing thevalue of perseverance in all human undertakings"they took measures notwithstanding all theirdiscouragements" that proved the means of bring­iDg about results, that turned the reproach back

THE SOUTn SEA ISLAN DS. 403

upon the enemies of an undertaking, which,whatever might be its present appearance. wascommenced from motives of the roost praise­worthy benevolence.

404 W. ELLIS AND OTflEU,S, IN

WILLIAM ELLIS.

VOYAGES AND RESEARCHES IN THESOUTH SEA ISLANDS.

CHAPTER I.

Voyage from England, to the Paci1l.o-Arrlval at New Zealand.and general impressioDB from the Scenery and People-Arrivalat Rap&. and general Sketch-Thievish DiBpoBition ot the Na­tives-They attempt to Bteal the Bhip'B Dog-A Chief Jump!overboard with the Cat-Arrlval at Tabuai-Appearance of it.and ot the Natives-Arrival at Tahiti.

TUR interesting islands of the South Sea, nothaving been totally abandoned by tbe Societyin ~ndon, in the year 1815, Mr. WilliamEllis, and a Mr. Threlkeld, were appointed, not

TilE SOUTH SEA IBLAN DS. 405

only to go to the Pacific as Missionaries, but tomake such researches in that region, and toobtain such general information, as might helpto guide the opinions, as to future operationsthere, of the friends of Missionary undertakingsin England.

It was in the month of January, 1816, thatthese two Missionaries and their families, sailedfrom Portsmouth for the Georgian and SocietyIslands in the South Sea. Touching at Madeiraon their passage, their ship arrived in Rio Janeiroon the 20th of March; and in this port theywere, with little reluctance on their part, detainedfor above six weeks. Sailing thence by theeastern course, they passed the Cape of GoodHope, and it was not until the 22d of July, thatafter various fortune as to weather, their vesselcast anchor in Port Jackson, New South Wales.Here Mr. Ellis and his friend met with severalof those Missionaries who had been driven fromTahiti; and staying not less than five months onthe Australian continent, in December, the sameyear, they again set sail in a brig called theQueen Charlotte, meaning to touch on their wayto the Georgian Islands, at the celebrated islandof New Zealand.

406 W. ELLIS AND OTHERS" IN

Arriving at New Zealand, the Queen Charlottemade for the Bay of Islands, where a Missionarycolony having been planted by the Church Mis­sionary Society" Mr, Ellis and his friends weregreeted with much kindness by their countrymenon shore. Here the strangers were gratifiedwith a sight of the naked copper-coloured andhighly tatooed native Zealanders, so well de­scribed by Captain Cook nnd others; for theycame off in numbers in their long canoes to theship, anxious to sell to those on board" their fishand some curiosities of the island. Making anexcursion into the country afterwards" Mr. Ellismet with Tetoro, a chief" and a number of theislanders" who, on seeing the Missionaries" ran for­ward to meet them" saying" H how do you do ?I' asin England; but touching noses with the strangers"according to the custom of his country. Thischief" was a tall fine looking man,," to quote thewords of Mr. Ellis" "about six. feet high" and pro­portionably stout, his limbs firm and muscular;and when dressed in his war-cloak, with all hisimplements of death appended to his person" hemust have appeared formidable to bis enemies.When acquainted with our business," says Mr.

TilE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 407

Ellis, II he prepared to accompany us; but beforewe set out, an incident occurred that greatlyraised my estimation of his character. In frontof the hut sat his wife, and around her weretwo or three little children playing. In passingfrom the hut to the boat, Tetoro struck one of thelittle ones with his foot; the child cried, Bndthough the chief had his mat on and his gun inhis hand, and was in the act of stepping into theboat where we were waiting for him, he no soonerheard its cries, than he turned back, took thechild up in his arms, patted its little head, driedits tears, and giving it to the mother, hastened tojoin us. His conversation in the bont, during theremainder of the voyage, indicated no inferiorityof intellect nor deficiency of informatioD, as far ashe possessed tbe means of obtaining it. It Suchfirst impressions upon an intelligent stranger,give a lively idea of the condition and capabilitiesof a people, but Mr. Ellis found that there arediversities of character among these islanders, aswell as among more polished nations, for hedescribes the brother of this noble chieftain tobe in appearance, and in conduct, entirely asavage.

408 W. ELLIS AND OTIlERS, IN

The lmpreRsion made upon the Missionary by

the sight of the forests in New Zealand, as hefound them in their natural state upon the island;or what in North America, and other parts, iscalled the bush, we cannot avoid also offering inhis own words. ce We accompanied them"-thesavages-says he, "to the adjacent forests. Theearth was completely covered with thick, spread­ing. and forked roots, brambles, and creepingplants, overgrown with moss, and interwoven soas to form a kind of uneven matting, which ren­dered travelling exceedingly difficult. Tbe un­derwood was in many parts thick, and the trunksof the lofty trees rose like clusters of pillars, sup­porting the canopy of interwoven boughs andverdant foliage, through which the sun's raysseldom penetrated. There were no trodden paths,and the wild and dreary solitude of the plaee wasonly broken by the voice of some lonely birdwhich chirped among the branches of the bushes,or, startled by our intrusion on its retirement,darted across our path. A sensation of solemnityand awe involuntarily Brose in the mind. whilecontemplating a Bcene of such peculiar character,so unlike the ordinary haunts of men, and so

THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 409

adapted, from the silent grandeur of his works,to elevate the sou] with the sublimest conceptionsof the Almighty. I was remarkably struck withthe gigantic size of many of the trees, some ofwhich appeared to rise nearly one hundred feet,without 0. branch, while two men with extendedarms could not clasp their trunks." * Such is thecondition of the forests in New Zealand, so welldescribed by this Missionary, and making the faceof the country 80 different from the romanticvalIies and open glades which, with lofty moun­tains, diversify the scenery of the delightful islandof Tahiti.

Some of the native chiefs who had receiveda quantity of wheat from Mr. :Marsden of NewSouth Wales, about two years before, bad sownit,. and it had arrived at perfection; and the Mis­sionaries on the island having also tilled a field inthe European manner, and sown wheat, Mr. Ellisfound it growillg green and flourishing when hevisited the settlement. This progression in agri­cultural art, with its subsidiary labours and im­provements, will doubtless extend among the New

• Polynesian Researches, Vol. i. p. 27.2N

410 W. ELLIS AND OTIIERS, IN'

Zealanders" even to their native :flax. plant, whichwas also found growing strong and thickly in thelow lands,-its long leaves or flags, shaped like asword, furnishing a fibre which makes a species ofhemp, ofwhich the natives manufactured fishing­lines, twine, cordage, and even dresses, and whichis expected to form an important article of com~

merce with New South Wales and England.The population of New Zealand is much

greater than that of the other smaller islands ofthe South Sea, bein~ estimated at not less thanhalf a million. The character of the inhabitantsis now well known in Europe. rrhey are pos­sessed of much energy, both of body and mind,and discover none of the cowardice and effemi­nacy of the more gentle inhabitants of theGeorgian Islands. Most of the warriors areabout six feet in height, and strong and muscularin proportion. The whole people are hardy andindustrious, but war is their delight. They aremuch less superstitious than the other South Seaislanders, but they are more ferocious and san­guinary in their wars; and in cases of triumphover their enemies" their bloody vengeance andcruelty to their captives is truly horrible, and their

TilE SOUTl1 SEA ISLANDS. 411

cannibalism has been verified beyond a doubt.So ferocious is their disposition, although theirintellect is good and apt for instruction, that noimpression favourable to their civilisation hasbeen made upon them by the intercourse witha more humanised people, which the occasionalvisits of European ships has afforded them. Onthe contrary, they have been more rE:ady to learnor to practise the vices of the Europeans thantheir virtues" as has been shewn in several oftheir late atrocities.

Among such a people it may be supposed thatlittle improvement is to be expected, merely fromthe mild and patient labours of Missionaries, fora long period of time. Those, however, sent outby the church society in 1814, and now visitedby Mr. Ellis in 1816" had not altogether la­boured in vain. The general character of thepeople, in the neighbourhood of the settlement,appeared to the visitor to be improved; piety insome cases had been evinced; and the arts ofcivilised life had begun to attract the attention"and to employ the ingenuity of the natives. 'fhewretched system of government in New Zealand,

412 W. ELLIS AND 01'IlERS, IN

bringing with it, as it did, consequences continu­ally tending to wnr and encouraging treachery.and every species of disturbance and barbarity,formed the greatest obstacle to the Christianisingor civilising of the natives. There is in fact nogovernment, no general head over the people,but the whole are under a subdivided and inde­pendent cbieftaillsbip, wbich occasions continualjealousies, quarrels, and bloodshed; and nursesthat spirit CJf ferocity and savage cunning, whichis inimical to the introduction of all humanisingvirtue.

At the end of the year 1816, Mr. Ellis and hiscompanion sailed from the Bay of Islands in NewZealand; and on the 'l6th ofJanuary, 1817, they,at day-break in the morning, discovered them­selves to be close to an island called Rapa, whichbad been discovered by Vancouver in 1791. Theappearance of this island from the sea, like most ofthose in the Pacific ocean, seems to be singularlyromantic. No low land met the sea on its shores,but lofty mountains rising towards its centre, werewashed at their bases by the restless waves; while apart of the banks covered with bushes and verdure

TlIE SOUTH SEA ISLAN DS. 413

surrounded them like belts, and winding valliesbetween" shot farther than the eye could reachinto the interior of the country. The noblemountains" which formed the high land in thecentre of the island" says Mr. Ellis" were" singu­larly broken in shape, so as to resemble, in nosmall degree" a range of irregularly inclined cones"or cylindrical columns" which their original dis­coverer supposed to be towers" or fortifications,manned with natives."

Sailing round this picturesque island and ad..miring its scenery" the Missionaries observedseveral canoes put off from the sbore" and aboutthirty of them soon after surrounded the ship" butkept for a long time at a considerable distance ;the natives seeming to look at the European vesselwith much surprise and emotion. The bodiesof these islanders were finely formed, theirfeatures regular, and in many cases handsome:their countenances partly shaded with black curl­ing, and sometimes long straight hair j and theirskin, not tattooed like the New Zealanders, wasof a dark copper colour. A girdle of yellowleaves round their waists, was all the cover­ing they wore. After some difficulty, the Mis-

2N2

414 W. ELLIS AND OTHEll.!, IN

sionaries got a few of them to approach the-ship's side, and one of them to accept of a fewhooks, for a lobster which was perceived lying atthe bottom of his boat. The chief after gazingcuriously at the hooks gave them to a boy, who,having no pocket or place about his person toput them in, thrust them into his Dlouth. Whenthe Missionary offered his hand to the savage chiefto assist him in getting into the ship, the latter,first drawing back", afterwards put the white handclose to his nose and smelt at it, as if to ascertainwhat sort of being he was thus coming in contactwith. When he had at length climbed up theship's side and got on the quarter deck, the Cap­tain politely handed him a ~hair and made signsfor him to sit, but after examining the seat, heput it aside and sat down on the deck.

Although these islanders were shy at first, theysoon became as bold in their manners as theyare described to be savage in their looks. Manyof them began to climb over the bulwarks ofthe vessel", and soon crowds of them appearedon the deck.~The object of the fiercest lookingseemed to be, to carry off whatever they took afancy to, and that either by stealth or force; so

THE SOUTH SEA ISLA:N DS. 415

while the others were gazing about, a giganticfellow, catching hold of one of the ship-boys,endeavoured to lift him from the deck, but thelad. struggling, got free from his grasp. Henext seized the cabin-boy, but the sailors inter ..fered, and when the savage found himself pre­vented from carrying the boy oft', he pulled theyouth's woollen shirt over his head, with whichhe prepared to leap overboard, when the sailorsarrested him, and made him give it up.Another native seized a large ship-dog, whichwas on board, and the animal, being terrified bythe appearance of the }slanders, lost all hiscoumge, and suft'ered himself to be taken up inthe Brms of the man j who was proceeding withit over the ship's side, when the chain by whichit was bound to its kennel prevented bim. Thesavage then tried to carry off kennel and all,but finding it made fast to the deck, he wasobliged to relinquish it, and seemed much disap­pointed.

'Vhile the DBtives gazed round them for some­thing else that they could capture, a young cat,which had been brought frolD Port Jackson,made its appearance from the cabin gangway.

416 w~ ELLIS AND O'l'IiBRS" IN

The moment the unconscious animal came upondeck, a native sprang upon it like a tiger, and,catching it up, jumped overboard with it, andplunged into the sea. Those on board imme­diately ran to the side, to see what the savagemeant to do with the cat. He had now risen tothe surface, and was Bwimming vigorouslytowards a canoe, which lay about fifty yardsoff. When he got to the canoe he held up thecat in both his hands, over his head, in thehighest exultation, while the natives were pad­dling in every direction towards him, to get asight of the strange creature which he hadbrought from the ship. When the Captainobserved the success of the robber,. he levelledhis musket, and was about to fire. at the mao;had he not been withheld by the arguments ofthe Missionaries. He then gave orders to clearthe ship; and a strange scene ensued, forthere was a sudden scuffle between the sailorsand the natives. Many of the latter were pitchedclean overboard by the sailors, which was not theslightest inconvenience to them, while othersclambered up the shrouds, and hung about thechains. The dog, formerly 80 terrified) now

TllE SOU'l'Il SEA ISLANDS. 417

sought revenge, by tearing the legs of somenatives who would not leave the ship, whileothers required the long knives carried by seamenin sailing the South Sea to be used, before theywere completely expelled.

'l'he inhabitants of Rapa, in most particulars,bear a general resemblance to the other islandersof the Pacific Ocean; but are much less civi­lised in their manners, more rude in their arts"and possess" consequently, fewer comforts thanthe Tahitians" or any other natives of the morenorthern islands. Upon being afterwards visitedby other Missionaries" the population of Rapawas found to contain about two thousand inhabi­tants ; and" savage as they are" considerableimprovement has been since effected amongthem. The island itself is about twenty milesin circumference" has an excellent harbour"though with an intricate entrance; and is tole­rably well wooded and watered.

Leaving Rapa" and sailing northerly" theMissionaries, on the Srd of February" descriedthe island of Tabuai, which had originally beendiscovered by Cook" in the year 1177. This wasthe first of the South Sea islands which was

418 w. BLLIS AND OT.lIERS" IN

seen by the Missionaries in the Duff" in 1197" 0.1

already related; and here" also" the mutineerswho rose against their officers" whom theyexpelled from their ship, the Bounty, in 1789"found their first refuge. These unfortunate andabandoned men, having, by their lawless con­duct" provoked the natives to rise against them"a murderous battle on this island ensued" whereina number of the former were slain; but theseamen were so hard pressed by the infudatedislanders" that nothing but their own skill in theuse of fire arms" and the advantageous positionin which they had posted themselves" preservedthem from total destruction. The final settle­ment of these men on Pitcairn's Island" afterhaving landed on Tahiti" with the ultimateapprehension of several of tbem" and otherinteresting circumstances" have been celebratedby the late Lord Byron, in his poem called"II The Island; or Christian and his Com­panions."

The island of Tabuai is less picturesque thanRapa" but is hilly and verdant. Some of thehills had, to our visitors' apprehension" a sun­burnt appearance, unlike what is usual in the

THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 4H~

other islands, but others were partially coveredwith wood. A reef of coral runs out into thesea which surrounds it, protecting the lowlandsfrom the incursion of its waves. As the sbipapproD.('hed the shore, a number of canoes filledwith natives, came out as usual to view tbestrangers. These canoes were sixteen to twentyfeet long, resembling those they had seen atRnpa, but less noble in form than the prowedboats of tbe New Zealanders; the lower partbeing formed of the hollowed trunk of a tree,and the sides, stem and stern, being composed ofthin planks, sewed together, with what the na­tives of these islands call cinet; a sort of twinemade from the fibrous husk of the cocoa nut. Afine looking chief came on board the ship withthe otber natives, and did all in his power toinduce the ship's people to land on his island.This request was, bowever, refused for the pre­sent, at least; and as the islander staid on boardthe whole of that day and night, he was con­siderably affected by tbe motion of the vessel.

The Missionary describes the manners of thisman to bave been mild and friendly, and wasmuch struck with his handsome form and noble

420 w. ELLIS AND OTHERS, IN

mien; though his only dress was a broad girdleround his loins, bis body being but little tatoned..and his glassy black hair tied in a bunch on thecrown of his bead, while its extremities hung inringlets over his shoulders. Next morning aparty from the ship going on shore.. found thepeople friendly, though not numerous, and quiteready to barter their fowls and island fruits.. forthe fish hooks and other articles of cutlery whichthe ship had brougbt. When a more extendedview of tbe natives was obtained, the strangersfound many of them, who wore" (besides a lightrobe of their native cloth over their shoulders,)many folds of white or yellow cloth bound roundtheir heads, which gave them, of COUTse.. muchof an Asiatic appearance. Many also had roundtheir necks.. strings of a strong scented nut calledthe pandanus.. the smell of which is.. by use..grateful to the islanders of the Pacific.

Sailing from Tabuai.. on the 4th of February..unfavourable winds retarded their progress, sothat it was not until the lOth, that the Mission­aries were gratified with their first sight of thecelebrated island of Tahiti. About sunset.. theirship drew near to Point Venus.. which they

TlJE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 421

descried to the south, and sailing along, charmedwith the rich and varied scenery of this island­paradise, several canoes of the natives came outto meet them. Being, however, drifted off shorein the night, it was not until mid-day of the 16thFebruary, 1817, that their ship cast anchor inMatavai bay.

20

422 W. ELLIS AND OTHERS, IN

CHAPTER II.

Impressions of the Scenery ot Tahiti-Landing of a Horse. andastonishment ot the Natives-Visit of the Queen and her Attend­ants to the Ship-Departure tor Elmeo. and arrival there-Stateof the Mission, and Sketch of late Changes in these Islands­Conversion of Pomare-Abolition of Idolatry-the Idols publiclyburned-Persecution of the Cbristl.a.na-Rema.rkable progress of'CbristiaDity..

TUB effect produced by the scenery of the island ofTahiti upon Mr. Ellis and his friends, as their shipfirst sailed intoMatavaiBay, within which the otherMissionaries had formerly dwelt, is scarcely to bedescribed.. The sea on which they glided along,was smooth and glassy; the morning was fair,and the climate already gave an exhilaration tothe spirits; a light breeze wafted along theshore, while the sky above their heads was with..out a cloud. All that our Missionary had everheard of this " most enchanting island," seemed

THE SOUTH SEA. ISLAN DS. 423

surpassed by the reality, when its romanticscenery came fairly before his eyes. He speaksof beholding successively ~'all the diversity ofhill and valley, broken or stupendous mountainsand rocky precipices, clothed with every varietyof verdure, from the moss of the jutting promon­tories on the shore, to the deep and rich foliageof the bread-fruit tree; the oriental luxury ofthe tropical pandanus, or the wavering plumes ofthe lofty and graceful cocoa-nuS grove:'

We have already given some description ofthis bay, as it impressed Captain Wilson andhis friends; but to the imaginative eye ofthe present Missionary traveller, it had charmsof a still higher order. The cataract rushingdown the mountain side, or foaming in itsrocky bed below i-the clear. stream stealingthrough those valleys which wound in fairyvistas into the broken and tangled groves of theinteriori-the numerous hills and mountains tow­ering in the back ground; over which, envelopedin clouds, the lofty Orohena, the central moun­tain of the island, lifts its misty head, to thegreat height of nearly seven thousand feet abovethe sea i-while in the fore-ground, the green

424 W. ELLIS AND Ol'lIERS, IN

slopes which sweep down from the groves amongthe hills, are met by "the white-crested waters ofthe Pacific, rolling their waves of foam in splendidmajesty upon the coral reefs; or dashing inspray against its broken shore,"--all formed 8

scene of which language can very inadequatelyconvey an idea. Buried among the vallies, orpeeping out from the groves of fruit trees, thehouses of the natives are here and there seen, togive life, as wt:ll as the idea of enjoyed happiness,to this delicious Eden of the South sea.

The Missionaries regarded the natives, whohad by this time crowded on board, with muchinterest, as those among whom the rest of theirdays might probably be spent; but in stoppingat Matavai Bay, they were but paying a visit to

Tahiti; for they were, in the first instance, boundfor the neighbouring island of Eimeo" whither, itwill be remembered" the original Missionarieshad fled with the king, after they were forced toleave the former island, several years before. KingPomare had, however, before the present visit ofMr. Ellis, returned to Tahiti, although none of theold Missionaries had, as yet" accompanied him;a remarkable revolution having in the interim

TIlE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 425

taken place; some account of which we shallgive in its proper place. His Tahitian Majestysoon came on board, and welcomed Mr. Ellis,having sent before him his present of provisions.

Pomare II. (formerly Otu) was about fortyyears of age, and his taIl, and almost giganticfigure, his kingly appearance for a savagemonarch, his oriental f~atures and copper colour,and his dress of white native cloth, contrastingwith his glossy black hair, impressed tlie Mis­sionary with involuntary respect. He spoke alittle English, and enquired of the Missionariesconcerning King George of Britain, GovernorMaquarrie of New Holland, and Mr. Marsden;asking also some particulars regarding the timeof the departure of their ship from the latterplace, and what had been the incidents of theirvoyage. He brought with him a small EnglishBible, out of which Mr. Ellis, at his request, readhim two chapters, he being at this time able to

understand the English language in some mea­sure~ though little able to speak it.

Ascending from the ship's cabin, where themeeting between him and tIle Missionary hadtaken place, and going to see what things had

~02

4'26 W. ELLIS AND OTllERS, IN

been brought from New Holland, his TahitianMajesty was highly delighted with a horse whichwas in the hold, and which had been sent to himfrom the lattf'r place as a present; it being ananimal unknown in the islands of the Soutb Seas.It was intended to send the horse asbore at once,for which purpose the king ordered a pair oflarge canoes to the ship's side. The animalwas then hoisted out of the hold on slings, andfrom the deck hauled by ropes to the yard arm,in order to be from thence dropped upon tbe plat­form laid across the two canoes. While, how­ever, the beast was hoisted up, and hung by themiddle from the yard arm in the air; to the greatconsternation of the king and the other natives,some of the bandages round it gave way, bywhich accident it was left suspended by the neckand fore legs j and after sprawling in that situa­tion for some time, slipped through the slings andplunged into the sea. The natives looked on inastonishment, until they perceived the animal riseto the surface, and after snorting and shaking itsbead, begin to swim vigorously towards the shore.They then jumped into the sea after him; andfollowed him like a shoal of sharks, some seizing

THE SOUTH ilEA ISLAN DS. 427

him by the tail, others by his mane, until thepoor beast was terrified almost into drowning.The king shouted as loud as he could, callingupon his people to leave the horse; but theclamour and noise prevented him from beingbeard, and though the captain of the shiplowered down the boat fpr the same purpose"it was of no avail. At length the ex.haustedanimal reached the shore in safety, and when hegot out of the water, and began to walk alongthe beach, thp. natives perceiving that he was nota fish, fled with precipitation frolD so strange aqUadruped; some climbing trees to be enabled toget II sight of him in safety, and others crouch­ing behind the rocks and bushes by the shore,while he passed. To them the poor horse was asight equally astonishing and alarming; but when.they observed ODe of the seamen who bad beensent after the beast, approach it withQut fear, andtaking hold of the halter still hanging by its neck,proceed to lead it along, they began to gatherround to satisfy their curiosity.

The queen (whom Pamare had married a fewyears back) soon after this, paid the Missionary avisit on board. ~Mr. Ellis descri\>es her as in

428 W. ELLIS AND OTHERS, IN

stature about the middle size, extremely elegantin form, and prepossessing in ber whole appear­ance, her complexion fairer than any of thenatives be bad yet seeD. He thought her voicesomewhat barsh, and ber manners less en­gaging than tbose of some of her companions;but ber dress was flowing and tastefuUyarranged,being of native cloth, beautifully white; it wasformed like the Roman toga, fastened to ber leftshoulder, and hung down to her ankle. Her bairwas somewhat fair, (which was remarkable in anislander),. and she wore on her bead a bonnet,made ofgreen and yellow coeoa-nut leaves, which,the Missionary thought, looked light and elegant..She had no rings ill her ears, but in the perfo­rations of eaeh, were inserted some flowers froma fragrant plant called the Cape Jessamin. Hersister, named Pomare Vahine, accompanied herto the ship, as did also her daughter, who appearedabout six. years of age, and who with her nurseand other attendants, was- brought into the ship'scabin. A numerous retinue followed these per­sonages, and after spending. two hours on boardthe vessel, !1nable however to address a word tothe Captain or the Missionary, the whole, after

THE BOUT 11 SEA IS LA N DS. 429

recelvlDg a few presents, took their departure,and in many canoes, returned to the shore.

But the greatest diversion the natives bad, waswith the horse, which had been left for the firstnight tied up, and under the charge of one of themost favourite of the king's chiefs. On themorning succeeding its going on shore, it wasbrought forth after the business of barteringfor provisions had been finished, and led outwhile the multitude gathered around, and gazedupon it with pleasure and astonishment. 'fheking had also come down to the beach; anda saddle and bridle having been brought anddelivered to his majesty, he begged that theanimal might be invested with them, and thatsome one might be placed on his back. The horse'saccoutrements being accordingly put on, theCaptain of the ship mounted him, and rode alongthe beach, doubtless with all tbe ease and graceof a seaman, en cavalier, upon which the nativesshouted with delight, calling the animal in theirlanguage, a land-running pig, a man-carryingpig, and other names expressive of their ideas ofsuch a wonderful creature.

The horse being left in the king's possession,

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and all things settled that were intended for thepresent to be done in Tahiti" the ship next dayweigbed anchor" and soon arrived at Eimeo" whicnis only about fourteen miles distant from theformer island. Eimeo" or as it was formerlye&ll~d Moorea" is twenty-five miles in circum­ferance" and fully as beautiful and romantic in1ts scenery as Tahiti itself. A coral reef sur­rounds it like a ring, extending in some placesabove a mile from the shore, and on this beautifulcircle" over which the sea constantly froths andwashes" several small and verdant islands risegreen and romantic. This island was a favourite!etreat of Pomare the then king of Tahiti" when.political troubles assailed him;. and was now theltead quarters 01 that mission to the South Sea,wbich amidst every discouragement had neverbeen wholly removed or abandoned.

The ship soon entered the beautiful har­bour of Taloo, the- romantic chamcter of whosescenery has already been sketched from thedescription of Captain Wilson, and the Mission­aries by the Duff;. for its awful grandeur anddeep solitude, as they first entered it, made a pro­found impression upon their minds. Altbough the

TIlE SOUTII SEA ISLA.NDS. 431

mountains round this bay are very precipitousand abrupt, and are in many parts woodedalmost to the summit" they are not so lofty asthe highest mountain in Tahiti; and. the streamsthat rush from their cliffs" and wind down thevalleys, are more like mountain torrents thanrivers. Beyond the first range of mountains,and in the interior of the island" is a largeand beautiful lake, which is well stocked withfish" besides being a great resort for wild ducks.that are often taken in great numbers on itsbosom. This lake is called Tamai, and a seques­tered native village of the same name" sits qllietlyand hermit-like on its verdant margin.

Mr. Ellis was soon enabled to go on shore atEimeo, where he was greeted by the four Mis..sionaries now on the island" (as wellss by severalof the chiefs, who had also heard of his arrival),with a cordial and most encouraging welcome.But during the time he was OD his long pas­sage, or rather before his leaving Europe, areligious revolution had taken place in theseislands; so unexpected, and so effectual, that theaccount he now obtained of it, for the first time.,filled him with a pleasing astonishment. ID

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sbort.. Pomare.. the king, from whom he had justparted, had.. with several of the principal chiefs..been converted to Christianity; idolatry had beenpublicly abolished; and.. both in respect of reli­gion and civilisation.. the way had been cleared,within a few short years.. for those remarkableproceedings which have since taken place amongthe islands of the South Sea. These occu.r­rences.. however, were of a nature so interestingin themselves, as well as so important to thepeople among whom they took place.. that abrief sketch of the chief of them may here be

acceptable.It will be recollected, that upon the expulsion

of King Pomare from Tahiti.. and the abandon­ment of the mission there, in consequence of thewars.. together with the disasters that happenedto the Missionaries in Tongatabu.. &c., and theirgeneral departure for Port Jackson..-there stillremained two in the island of Eimeo, who pre­ferred staying with the king, and trying whatcould yet be done for the cause of the mission.Here they were left undisturbed in their labours,and bad full opportunity of devoting themselvesto the instructioll, in particular of the king, who

THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 433

being an exile" found relief and employment inthe exercises of reading, writing, and the study ofthe things that were brought to his ears by thestrangers" in which he took no little pleasure.While staying in this small island" " Whether,"says Mr. Ellis" " the melancholy reverses lie hadexperienced" and the depression of spirits conse­quent upon the dissolution of his government"and the destruction of his family, led him todoubt the truth of that idol worship to which behad been devoted" and on which he had inva..riably relied for success in every military, civil,and political enterprise; or whether the leisureit aWorded for contemplation and inquiry, underthe inftuence of these feelings, inclined bim toreflect more seriously on the truth of those decla­rations he had often heard respecting tbe trueGod, and to consider his present condition as thechastening of that Being whom he had refusedto acknowledge,-it is impossible to determine;but these disastrous events had evidently subduedhis spirit, and softened his beart:' In short, he firsturged the return of such of the Missionaries as stillremained at Port Jackson, then received Mr. andMrs. RickneU again" who obeyed bis wishes and

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came back to Eimeo, with the greatest affectiol)and even joy, and afterwards began to speak ofsuch things as they were the most earnest inteaching him, in terms which astonished theMissionaries themselves.

Other individuals also of the islanders, gave tothe Missionaries the same cheering indications ;and soon after the king publicly professed hisbelief in the God of the Christians, desiring to bebaptised in their faith. He also astonished his ownpeople on an occasion of expected sacrifice to theidol of his island" by publicly disowning the godof the islanders" and in their presence appropri­ating the meat" esteemed sacred" to his own use.When the bystanders" on witnessing this conduct,began to doubt of the sanity of the king" he pub­licly explaint"d the cause of having so acted; heendeavoured to convince them that their notionsof the power of their gods" was a mere imagi­nation of their own j and in short, that they hadhitherto" in the matter of religion" been in a com­plete delusion. All this was very decided" as tothe sentiments of the king, at least, and wasfollowed by the usual effects. Many of the chiefsand people took courage, and entering more

THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 435

seriously into these matters" ultimately followedtbe king's example. Others" however" zealouslystigmatised and opposed him.

During aU these promising appearances" theMissionaries seem to have exercised a laudableand wise caution. They neither hastily accededto the wishes of the king and others" for baptismioto the new faith" nor did tbey slacken in theirinstruction to qualify fully their converts for sosacred an ordinance. But the result of a seriesof circumstances connected with this growingand spreading change" such as may be imaginedin such a case" wasa total revolution in the religionof the whole of the Georgian islands; their idolswere publicly burned and otherwise destroyed"and the little images of wood" abounding in everybouse" were ultimately treated with as muchridicule and contempt" as they had once been heldin sacred veneration. A new place of worshipwas erected in Eimeo by the ex.press desire ofthe king; and a succession of changes took placein the religious and social state of the people" whichseemed hardly credible even to the Missionarieswho witnessed them" considering the rapidity andbrilliuncy of these effects of religious instruction.

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While this was going on, a deputation ofchiefs, from Tahiti, came to invite the king backto resume his government; many of tbe peoplethere having become tired of the unsettled stateof thing& during his absence. Pomare gladlyreturned again to his own island; and althoughhe suffered some opposition, both in civil affairsand in respect of his new profession of religion,he at length succeeded in quieting the Dlinds ofthe people; and even himself laboured zealouslyin tbe abolition of idol worsbip, the teaching ofchristianity, and the promotion of civilisationamong his people. Nor was this effected without~ taste of that persecution which has, in all ages,affiicted the small company of those, who givingup their idols of any sort, have professed theirbelief in the christian faitb. Scorn, contempt..and tbe abandonment of friends, were Dot theoDly troubles suffered on account of the new faith;an interesting and intelligent native was sbot a.and wounded, and narrowly escaped with bis life..being marked out by the priests of the old religionas a sacrifice to their idols, because of his havingembraced christianity; and anotber was surprisedand murdered.. and carried to the idol temple.

THE SOUTH SEA. ISLANDS. 437

Although for a short time, therefore, or ratherat several periods, during the progress of theseremarkable changes, "persecution raged amid theElysian bowers of Tahiti and Eimeo, as much asever it had done in the valleys of Piedmont, orthe metropolis of the Roman Empire," as Mr.Ellis flourishingly says; yet in the course of twoor three short years, advantages were gained forreligion and humanity in these islands, which areunparalleled, perhaps, in the history of Missionarysuccess in latter times. Before the expiration ofthe year 1814, the small number of Missionariesnow labouring in Eimeo, were attended by aboutthree hundred scholars j upwards of two hundredadults bad given in their names as professors ofchristianity, and the progressing reformation hadmade its way with extraordinary effect into theneighbouring islands of Huahine, Raiatea, andSirCharles Sanders' island, besides the effects pro­duced in the larger island of Tahiti.

IR the year 1815, a pleasing example was fur­nished, at a public entertainment in Eimeo, of theprogressing effects of thi9 extensive reformationin the islands of the South Sea. Pomare Vahine,daughter of the King of Raiate3, and sister of the

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Queen of Tahiti, wife of Pomare, having paid avisit to this island, on her way to Tahiti, whereshe was going to see her sister,--a grand entertain­ment was prepared for her by the native chiefs ofEimeo. A large quantity of food of differentkinds having been dressed, it was usual that itshould first be offered to the idols, as mentionedin the former case with Pomare. While thepeople looked on, expecting the priests to selectthe offering, one of Vahine's attendants, being aconvert to Christianity, came forward, and un­covering his head, in an audible voice, addressedthe God of Heaven with thanksgiving and ac­knowledgment for this food. The multitudewitnessed this scene with astonishment; but noopposition was oJfered, and the food being nowconsidered as offered to the God of the Mission­aries, aDd not to their own idols, no one dared to

suggest an alteration, and the stranger ladyacquiesced in the bold measure of her attendant.

TUE bOll'l'U SEA iSLANDS. 439

CHAPTlJR Ill.

Mr. Ellis Bails flo the district of Afaraitu-DescrlptioD of a TaW...tian dinner-Of the valleys of Afaraitu-Forming of a Mission­ary Station there, and setting up of a Printing Press-Astonish·moot and crowding of the Natives at the first working of thePress-Printing and Book.binding-Afi'ecting "eagerness of thePeople for Books-Extensive and human1a1ng Eft'eets of theIntroduction of Christianity.

IT was while matters were in this state" and evenmore advanced than we have yet related" that Mr.Ellis landed in the island of Eimeo. In the courseof the first week of his stay amongst his rejoicingbrethren" he made several excursions into theinterior ofthe district. He found the soil" in thelevel parts of the valleys in particular" to consistof a rich vegetable mould" with a small portion ofalluvial" which seemed to have been washed downfrom the surrounding hills. He also saw severalplantations well stocked with the several produc­tions of the island" but want of cultivation hadrendered some }Jortion of the IowlandJ tank with

440 W. ELLIS A.ND OTHERS, 1M

its own luxuriance. and thickly covered with longgrass and brushwood.

He next accompanied one of the Missionarieson a canoe voyage to another district of theisland, lying about twenty miles distant fromthe settlement. Two natives paddled their canoe,and they skimmed lightly along the smoothwater that lay within the coral reef before men­tioned. Wben~ they had reached a place calledMoru, they landed and visited a friendly chief,who, as usual, set before them an abundantrefreshment, which, being served up in the trueTahitian style, and the first native meal our tra­veller had eaten on the island, he observed veryminutely how it was conducted. It When thefood was ready," he says, "we were requestedto seat ourselves on the dry grass that coveredthe floor of the house. A number of the broadleaves of the purau (hibiscus tileaceus), havingthe stalks plucked off close to the leaf, were thenspread on the ground, in two or three successivelayers, with the downy or under side upwards, andtwo or three were handed by a servant to eachindividual, instead of a plate. By the side ofthese vegetable plates, a small cocoa-nut shell of

TIlE SOUTH MEA ISLANDS. 441

salt water was placed for eacb person. Largcquantities of fine large bread-fruit, roasted on hotstones, were now brought in, and a number offish that had been wrapped in plaintain leaves,and broiled on the embers, were placed besidethem. A bread-fruit and a fish was handed to eachindividual, and, having implored a blessing, webegan to eat, dipping every mouthful of bread~

fruit, or fish, into tbe small vessel of salt water,without which, it would, to tbe natives, have beenunsavoury and tasteless. I opened the leaves,an~ found tbe. fish nearly broiled, and, imitatingthe practice of those around me, dipped several ofthe first pieces I took into the dish placed by myside: but there was a bitterness in the sea waterwhich rendered it rather unpalatable; I thereforedispensed with the further use of it, and finishedmy meal with the bread-fruit and fisb:'

The same practice of u· serving up'· salt waterto t,beir food, is mentioned by Mr. Puckey in thejournal of his tour round Tahiti many yearsprevious. 'fhat Missionary traveller, who neveromits to mention where and wben he was treatedwitb II a comfortable meal," found himself muchdisappointed and almost poisoned at one time" on

442 W. ELLIS AND OTHERS, IN

finding at one part of his journey a most savouryroast goose served up to him with salt water forsauce, which was not at all suited to his taste, nomore than the same liquid condiment was to thatof Mr. Ellis on this occasion. It is remarkablethat the natives found out or imitated a methodof distilling ardent spirits from certain roots, as weshall hereafter have occasion to notice, before theyhad any notion of the simple art of making salt.

Resuming their journey about two in the after­noon, the Missionaries rarne about sun-set to thedistrict called Afaraitu, which is on the easternside of the island, and lies opposite to the districtof Aheturu in the island of Tahiti, before alludedto. 1.1lis beautiful spot, which became afterwardsan important Missionary station, seems to havebeen very popUlous; for their arrival, Mr. Ellissays, created 110 small stir among the people. Onexamining the district next morning, they weredelighted with its fertility, extent, and resources.It is described as comprising two vallies, or ratherone large valley partially divided by a narrow hillyridge, extending from the mountains, in theinterior towards the shore. The same fertility,richness, and luxuriant verdure found in the finest

TilE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 443

portions of this and the other islands, was abund­antly displayed here j trees and shrubberies risinggreen and varigated to the very summits of themountains. It Several broad cascades," says Mr.Ellis, It flowed in silver streams down the sides ofthe mountains, and, broken occasionally by ajutting rock, presented. their sparkly waters inbeautiful contrast with the rich and dark foliageof the stately trees, and the flowering shrubs thatbordered their course." Well might the intelli­gent Missionary, who had an eye for such beauty,and a heart to feel its impression, become a little.Rowery himself in his language, when describingsuch glorious scenery.

Not to dwell upon the further description ofthis charming district, the Missionaries soon sawits advantages for a second settlement. Theland between the shore and the mountainswas not swampy and luxuriant only, like someother parts, but high, healthy, and beautiful Anelliptical indentation of the shore at the mouthof the valley, and an opening in the coral reef infront, formed a convenient bay for small vessels,and It a picturesque little coral island, adornedwith two or three clumps of hibiscus and cocoa-

444 W. ELLIS AND OTlIERS, IN

nut trees," lay nearly across the mouth ofthe bay,which added both to the security and beauty ofthe maritime portion of the district. Added to allthis, and to the evident salubrity of the air inthis neighbourhood, was an abundance of the pro­ductions of nature all round; and a sweet andconvenient stream of water wound down thevalley and discharged itsel! into the sea at thebottom of the little bay. '.rhe exploring Mission­aries perceiving all these advantages for theirproposed settlement, lost no time in waiting onthe principal chiefs of the neighbourhood uponthe business, who were quite please,d with theidea suggested, and promised every assistance inthe erection of the necessary houses.

By this time the progress of the reformation inthe islands was so extensive that our travellerswere only restrained from forming new settle­ments and prosecuting new plans with regard tothe other islands, by the smallness of their pre­sent number, and the consideration of the vesselswhich they had begun to build being as yet farfrom finished for want of hands. Mr. Ellis hav­ing, however, brought with him a printing pressand types from the mother country, aud having

THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 445

himself learned the art of printing while inEngland, at the request of the directors of theLondon Society, it was soon decided by theMissionaries, that in order to avail themselves ofthe present disposition of the people, they shouldhave their printing press set up in this newlysurveyed district of Afaraitu, as soon as they coulderect a suitable building.

In this work, King Pomare, now at Tahiti, tooka most cordial and decide4 interest. He wrote aletter to the chief of the district, requesting himzealously to assist the Missionaries in their under­taking; and in a few weeks came himself to theisland, in order to hasten forward the work. Dif­ferent parties of the natives were, for this purpose,formed by his direction; one attending to thebuilding of the printing office, and anotherlabouring at the erection of a house for Mr. Ellis.These houses were built of wood, in the mannerusual in this island; that is-the sides formedby upright posts" about three feet apart, the in­terstices filled up with a wattled matting, and insome places left quite open; while rafters andcross beams uphold the roof, which is formed ofthe prepared leaves of the pandanas. and very

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446 W. ELLIS A.ND OTHERS, IN

ingeniously wrought over a matting. A wall, orwell formed paling, usually surrounds the houses,leaving a court of considerable extent, which isoften paved with black or party-coloured pebblestones, and is usually kept smooth and clean.When the printing office was nearly complete,the Missionaries finished it, not only by makinga floor chiefly of wood, that is, with the trunksof trees split in two, and boarding the sides ofthe house with boards of their own cutting i butby placing in it two or three windows of glass,much to the admiration of the natives.

But the printing press was the great object ofthe admiring curiosity of these people. Thefame of this wonderful machine had spread overall Eimeo, and also several of the neighbouringislands i and numbers of the people, from allparts round, flocked to the spot, as well to get asight of it, as to attend the religious instructionsof the Missionaries. It was not more than threemonths after Mr. Ellis and his friends had paidtheir first visit to Maraitu, before the house wasready, and the press set up i and the king havingbeen informed of the fact, by his own desire hecame, accompanied by a body of his most favourite

THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 447

cbiefs" and followed by a large concourse ofpeople" to witness the first operations of tbefamous machine.

He entered the building with his chiefs only, buttbe windows of it required to be screened" to pre­vent the annoyance of the eager multitude. It wasproposed that the king should put together thefirst letters with his own hand. The composingstick was given to him for this purpose, andnever did a king feel 80 proud of being a printer.By the direction of Mr. Ellis" he filled the stickout of the boxes" with the large letters of thealphabet; for they were now about setting upthe first sheet of a spelling-book. As he knewthe alphabet" he next set in order the small let­ters" and when the first page was finished, helooked with wonder upon the effects of his owntalents at printing. The others having, while theking looked OD" put together sufficient matter tomake a form, on one side of a sheet, he was nextordered to ink the types. He took the ink ballsfrom Mr. Ellis, and struck the face of the lettersthree times. This was a feat; but what was nextto be done? The sheet was laid on the parch­ment, and covered down over the types. Now

448 W. ELLIS AND O'fHERS, IN

came the grand coup de main. The king wasdirected to pull the handle of the press j he pulledit vigorously j and when the covering was liftedup, the chiefs and attendants pressed forward tosee what their monarch had effected. Whenthey beheld the letters black, newly impressed,and well defined, there was a general expressionof wonder and delight. His Majesty repeatedthe act; and now, showing one of the sheets tothe crowd without, when they saw what he hadproduced from this marvellous machine, "theyraised," as we are told, Ie one general shout ofastonishment and joy." He continued, as wellas the crowd, to watch the progress of printing,the whole of the day, and for several days afterthis, paid much attention to the process sointeresting to all.

A spelling-book in the Tahitian language beingmost needed, this was the first volume printed onthe island. The ki ng in the course of his studiesin this new art, was engaged in counting several

.of the letters as they were used j and evincedmuch surprise at finding, that in sixteen pages ofthe spelling-book, the letter a was used above fivethousand times. A Tahitian catechism was the

THE SOUTH SEA I8LANDS. 449

next book printed, of which between two andthree thousand were thrown 01£; and next afterthis, a translation of St. Luke's Gospel into theTahitian, prepared by Mr. Nott, one of the ori­ginal Missionaries, was put to press. Before thefirst sheet of this latter work was printed, a newarrival from England gladdened the labourers inthis work; namely the brig Active, bringing anaccession to their strength of not less than sixnew Missionaries, at the very time when theywere most required. The same vessel broughtalso a supply of printing paper sent by the BibleSociety, than which hardly any thing could havebeen more seasonable.

Mr. Crook, who it will be remembered wasthe Missionary that several years before was leftalone upon one of the Marquesan islands, gaveMr. Ellis the greatest assistance in this work;and having instructed two of the natives to per­form the more laborious parts, particularly theworking of the press, these men soon becamegood workmen, and received regular wages fortheir business. The curiosity of the natives tosee this machine, that made cc the speakingpaper," was unbounded. None but the king Bnd

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