14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 1/12

PaulBruntonPhilosophicFoundationhomepage>NotebooksofPaulBrunton>Category15:TheOrient>Chapter4:Ceylon,AngkorWat,Burma,Java

Ceylon,AngkorWat,Burma,Java

Ceylon

1There,intheextremeSouth,inthetriangularpeakoftheIndianpeninsula,Ifoundgreatyogis.CeylonismyGardenofEden.Ishallalwaysloveitanditshappypeople.Itisunforgettablycharming.

2Flowersmakethisisleaparadise.Massesofbegoniasmeettheeye,pinkorchidsprovidebordersforone'swalk,wildrhododendronsdisplaytheirblossoms.

3Colombo:Inthehotel,waitersworewhiteEtonjackets,whitetrousers,andcolouredcummerbunds.Theroomswereattractivelycleananddeckedoutwithpottedpalmtreestheelectricfanswhirredcoolnessintotheair.

4Thetrainmovedthroughbeautifulscenery.Steamingricefieldsalternatedwithmultitudinoustreetops,andnativehutsandhousesnestledinthesidesofgrassyhills.Sometimeswewouldseealargebungalowprettilyemergingfromthemassesofpinkconvolvuliwhichhalfcoveredit.EverythinggrowsluxuriantlyhereinCeylon.

5Themostnoticeablethingaboutthisislandisitsscentedaroma,itsbreezeblownperfumeofcinnamonandfrangipaniandotherdelightfulspecies.ThisscentistheverybreathofCeylon.Thesecondthingistheconstantrustleofpalmfronds,whosenumberisliterallycountlessinthisislandofgrovesandforests.

AngkorWat

6Iftheyaretoyieldtheirrealvalues,wemustapproachalloldreligiousruinswithmindaswellaswithbody.Thisdemandstime,stillness,andmeditation.

7TheSecretDoctrineoftheKhmers

Ileavethethornyjungleandmountafrailbambooladder.Thefewwoodenstepsleadtoalargegrassroofedhut.ThelatterisbuiltontimberpilessomesixfeetfromthegroundamodeofdomesticarchitecturewhichprevailsthroughouttheinteriorvillagesofCambodia.IntheregionswhereafeebleefforttocultivatethelandismadewiththehelpoftheRiverMekong,bothdwellinganddwellerswouldbeoverwhelmedbythegreatannualfloodswereitnotforthiselevatedstyleofliving.Andinthelargeforesttractsitisequallyefficaciousagainstfiercetigers,whichdonothesitatetoclawtheirwayintothelightlybuilthuts.

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 2/12

Thislittleclearingamidstthicktreesandundergrowthwasmadebymonkswhohavelatelyreturnedafterhundredsofyears'absencetosettleneartheshadowoftheWat,thegreattempleofAngkor.Theyhaveputupatinyvillageandtoday,afterwaitingfortheoppressiveheatoftheafternoontoabate,Ienterastheirguest.

Thebonzessquatsmilinglyaroundthefloor,theireyesnarrowslits,theirMongoloidcheekbonessethigh,theirslimshortbodieswrappedtightlyincheerfulyellowcloth.Someholdfansintheirsmallhands,whileothersbendtheirshavenheadsoverpalmleafbooks.Copperspittoonsareplacedhereandtherefortheirrelief,becausethemoisthotclimatecreatesasthmatictendencies.Awildlookingmanapproachesmeandmutterssomethingunintelligible.Longagohegavehimselfthetitleof"KingofAngkor"andnoweveryonecallshimbythenameingoodhumouredderision.Hismindishalfunhinged,poorfellow,andheillustratesinitswreckagetheseriousdangersinincorrectlypractisedyoga.

Onthegroundoutside,aboyheapstogetherapileofdeadbranchesandsetsthemalight.Anotherservantfillstworoundvesselsatapoolcloseby,tiesonetoeachendofaflexiblepolewhichrestsacrosshisshoulders,andthenbearsthemtothehut.Thefirstboypourssomeofthewaterintoablackironbowlandrestsitoverthefire.Beforelongheappearsamonguswithtea.Itisafragrantlyscentedmilklessinfusionwhichwesipfromtinybowls.Thelifeofthesemenisprimitiveindeed,fortheyhavehardlyanypossessions.TheyarethehistoricdescendantsoftheKhmerswhohadbuiltAngkor,butmyrepeatedquestionsrevealthattheynowkeepbutapitifulremnantoftheiroldculture.ItconsistsofafewscrapsoftraditionmingledwithanimperfectknowledgeoftheHinayanaformofBuddhismwhichwasbroughttothecountryfromCeylonnotlongbeforetheCambodianempireapproacheditsfinalfall.Theoldestofthebonzestellsmesomemoreoftheircuriouslore.

"OurtraditionssaythatthreeraceshavemixedtheirbloodinKambaja[Cambodia].Thefirstdwellerswereunletteredsavages,whosetribesstillliveinpartswherenowhiteman'sfoothastrod.Theyareguardedbypoisoneddartsstuckallovertheground,letalonebythehugetigers,rhinoceros,andwildelephantswhichfilltheirforests.Ourprimitivereligionsurvivesamongthemintheformofruinedtempleswhicharecherishedasmascots.Thisreligion,togetherwithagovernment,wasgivenusbythegreatsagerulerSvayambuva,whocameacrossthewesternsea.HeestablishedtheworshipofBRA,theSupremeBeing.TheotherraceswhosettledhereweretheIndianandChinese.BrahminpriestsbecamepowerfulandtaughtourkingstoaddtheworshipofthegodsShivaandVishnuandtomakeSanskritasecondcourtlanguage.Suchwastheirpowerthateventoday,afterourcountryhasbeenpurelyBuddhistformanyhundredsofyears,theirdirectdescendantsconductallimportantceremonialsforourkingaccordingtoHindurituals.YouhaveseenintheroyalpalaceinPhnomPenhaswordmadeofdarksteelinlaidwithgold.ItisguardeddayandnightbytheseBrahmins.Webelievethatiftheslightestrustappearsontheblade,disasterwillcometotheKhmerpeople.ThatswordbelongedtoourgreatkingJayavarman,whobuiltthegrandtempleofAngkor,spreadthelimitsofourempirefarandwide,yetkepthismindincontrollikeasage.HeknewthesecretsofbothHinduismandMahayanaBuddhism,whichdwelledinfriendshipsidebysideinourcountry.Indeed,theMahayanawasspreadamongusevenbeforeitreachedChina."

Theafternoonpasses.Themagicoftheeveningsunbeginstowork.Astreamofreddeninglightpiercesthegrotesquelytinywindowsandplaysupontheunevenfloor.Itrevealstheteethofthesmilingmonks,someglitteringbutmostbetelstained.Weadjourntoalargerstructurefortheeveningrites.Whilejosssticksburnfreelybeforethegildedimageoftheirfaithandlonglitaniesaresoftlychanted,Ileavetheassemblyandsettle

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 3/12

downinthegreatTempleofAngkortosavouritssanctifieddarkness.

Iholdtothemodernattitude,whichhasprovedsosignificantinscience,thattheeraofmysterymongeringispast,thatknowledgewhichisnotverifiablecannotbereceivedwithcertitude,andthatovermuchprofessionofthepossessionofsecretsopensthedoorofimpostureandcharlatanry.Hewhoisunabletoofferadequateevidencehasnorighttothepublicear.Ihavegenerallyfollowedthislineofconductinallmywriting,eventhoughithascompelledmeinthepasttoleaveundescribedthatwhichIconsiderthemostvaluableofpersonalencountersandtorecordtheminormysticsasthoughtheywerethehighestsages.IfthereforeInowreluctantlybreakmyownrule,itisfortworeasons:thatitwouldbeapitytowithholdinformationwhichmanymightappreciate,andthatpoliticalenmityhasputmyinformant'sheadindanger.LetitsufficetosaythatsomewhereinSoutheastAsiaImetamanwhowearstheHighLama'srobe,whodisclaimsanyspecialknowledgeatfirst,butwhobreakshisreticenceintheend.ApartofwhathetellsmeaboutAngkorisworthreconstructinghere,butthestatementsarehis,notmine.

"Youarethefirstwhitemantoprostratehimselfbeforemeformanyyears.Iamdeeplymoved....ThekeywhichunlocksunderstandingofAngkor'smysteryneedstobeturnedthrice.ThereisfirstasecrettraditionwhichhascombinedandunitedHinduism,thereligionofmanyGods,andBuddhism,thereligionwithoutaGod.Thereisnextanunbrokenlineofsageswhoheldandtaughtthisdoctrineasbeingtherealandfinaltruthaboutlife.ThereisthirdlyaconnectionbetweenAngkorand,ononeside,SouthIndia,ontheotherside,Tibet.Inallthreelandstherewasatimewhenbothfaithsevendwelledoutwardlytogetherincompleteharmony,withinterchangeablerites,symbols,anddogmas.Thetraditionitselfwaslimitedbythementalincapacityofthemassestothecircleofafewsagesandtheirimmediatedisciples.VedantaandMahayanaarecorruptionsofthispuredoctrine,butofallknownsystemstheycomeclosesttoit.

"ItschieftenetwasthedemonstrationtoripeseekersoftheexistenceofasingleuniversalLifePrinciplewhichsagesnamedthe`First'orthe`Origin'.Initselfithasnoshape,cannotbedividedintoparts,andisquiteimpersonallikeaman'smindwheninastateofdeepsleep.Yetitistherootofeveryshapedthing,creature,person,andsubstancewhichhasappearedintheuniverse.Evenmindhascomeoutofit.ThereisnoroomornecessityforapersonalGodintheKhmersecretdoctrine,butthepopularreligionaccepteddiversegodsaslimitedbeingswhowerethemselvesasdependentontheFirstastheweakestman.Apartfromthesegods,thesagesgavethepeoplesymbolssuitableforworship.ThesesymbolshadtorepresenttheFirstasfaithfullyaspossible.Theywerethreeinnumber.Thesunwaschosenbecauseeverybodycouldeasilyunderstandthatitcreated,sustained,anddestroyedthelifeofthisplanet.Fromthetinycelltothegreatstar,everythingisinastateofconstantgrowthordecaythankstothesun'spower.Evensubstanceslikestone,wood,andmetalcomeintoexistencethroughtheworkingofthesunforce.Thesagesknewalso,however,thateventhehumanmindgetsitsvitalityfromthesameforce,causingittoreincarnateagainandagainupontheearth.ThepeopleofAngkorworshippedLightasaverygod,andtheriteofsunworshipwascarriedoninvaststonepavedcourtswhichwereopentotheskyandfacedthetemples.

"Thesecondsymbolwasthemaleorganofsex.Itappearedasaconeliketoweronsometemplesandasataperingsinglecolumnsetupinthecentreofthebuilding.ToWesterneyesitisastrangeandunsuitablesymbol.ButthepeoplewereplainlytaughttolookuponitasapictureoftheSourceofLife.OrientalsingeneralandprimitivepeopleeverywherefeellessshameaboutnaturalorgansandfunctionsthanWesterners.AnywaythetemplesofAngkorneverlinkedthissymbolwiththeworshipoflust.Itsexistenceneverdegradedthem.TheKhmerpeopleweresopuremindedthatSulayman,anArab

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 4/12

merchantwhowroteanaccountofavoyageinwhichheventuredasfarasChinaintheyear851,wroteofhisvisittoCambodia:`Allfermentedliquorsandeverykindofdebaucherywereforbiddenthere.Inthecitiesandthroughouttheempireonewouldnotbeabletofindasinglepersonaddictedtodebauchery!'

"ThethirdsymbolisalsothoughtofintheWestasconnectedwithevil,buttheadeptsofAngkorheldadifferentview.Theygavetheprevioussymbolbecausehardlyamanescapesseeingthemiracleofsex,wherebyatinyseedslowlygrowsintoafullymaturedhumanbeingcomposedofdifferentparts,thusteachingthepossibilityoftheFirstbecomingtheMany.Theyalsogavetheserpentasanemblemofworshipforthreereasons.Inthecourseofasinglelifetimeitsskinperiodicallydiesandisthrownoff,permittingnewskintoappeareachtime.Theconstanttransformations,reincarnations,andreappearancesoftheFirstasNaturearethusrepresented.Andwhenasnakeliesinitshole,itusuallycoilsitselfintotheshapeofacircle.Itisnotpossibletomarkwhereandwhenacirclebegins.InthispointthereptileindicatestheinfinityandeternityoftheFirst.Lastly,thereisastrangemesmericinfluenceintheglitteringeyesofthesnakewhichisfoundinnootheranimal.Duringtheoperationofthemysteries,whichhavenowbeenlosttotheWesternworld,theadeptinitiatedtheseekerintotheelementarystagebyamesmericprocesswhichenableshimtogetaglimpseofhisorigin.Therefore,thecarvingsofeverytempleinAngkorshowedtheserpent,whileonthelakePraReachDaknearbythereisanisletonwhichasmallshrinestandsentirelyencircledbytwogreatstonesnakes.

"ThelineofsageswhichhadpenetratedintothesecretoftheFirstandgavethesesymbolicreligionstothemasseshasshifteditsheadquartersfromepochtoepoch.FromthesixthtothethirteenthcenturiesitflourishedinAngkor,butforsevenhundredyearsbeforethatperioditflourishedinSouthIndia.Remindersofthisearliercentreexistinplentyinthearchitecturalformsandsculpturaldetails.EventheSanskritusedbytheBrahminpriestsinCambodiaisofPallava(SouthIndian)origin.Butthewheelofkarmaturned,theCambodianempiredeclinedanddisappearedwitharapiditywhichoutranthefalloftheRomans.Therulersweredazzledbywealthandconquestandfailedtoheedtheadviceofthesages.ThelatterwithdrewandmigratedtoTibet.

"YouaskmeiftheyarethesameadeptsasthosespokenofbyH.P.Blavatsky.Whenshewasagirlandfledfromherhusband,sheaccidentallymetagroupofRussianBuddhistKalmuckswhowereproceedingbyaroundaboutrouteonpilgrimagetotheDalaiLamaofTibet.Shejoinedthecaravanasameansofescapefromherhusband.Oneofthemwasanadept.HetookcareofherandprotectedherandbroughthertoLhasa.Shewasinitiatedinduecourseintothesecrettradition.ShevisitedotherpartsofTibetandalsoIndia.BeforetheexistenceoftheAngkorruinswasknownintheWest,shewassenttheretocontinueherstudiesandtoreceiveacertaincontactbymeditationinthetemples.H.P.B.wentbutexperiencedgreatdifficultyintravellingthroughtheunclearedjunglehowever,shebravelysufferedalldiscomforts.Later,shewasintroducedtoacodisciple,whoeventuallybecameaHighLamaandapersonaladvisortotheDalaiLama.HewasthesonofaMongolianprince,butforpublicpurposestookthenameof`TheThunderbolt'thatis,`Dorje.'OnaccountofhispersonalknowledgeofandinterestinRussia,hegraduallyaltereditto`Dorjeff.'Beforetheirgurudied,heinstructedBlavatskytogiveamostelementarypartofthesecrettraditiontotheWesternpeople,whileheinstructedDorjefftofollowherfurthercareerwithwatchfulinterest.DorjeffgavehercertainadviceshewenttoAmericaandfoundedtheTheosophicalSociety.Herguruhadforbiddenhertogiveouthisname.Moreover,sheknewmuchmoreoftheteachingsthansherevealed.Butshewasalwaysfearfulofsayingtoomuch,sosheconstantlycreatedwhatshecalled`blinds'andwrappedhertruthfulsecretsinimaginaryclothes.Imaysaynomore.However,thepoorwomanwasunjustlymalignedbyherenemies.Hersole

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 5/12

desirewastohelphumanity.TheycouldneverunderstandherpeculiarcharacternorherOrientalmethods.HersocietydidanenormousservicetowhitepeoplebyopeningtheireyestoEasterntruths.Butitsrealmissionisoverhenceitspresentweakcondition.Anewinstrumentwilltakeuptheworkin1939andgiveahigherrevelationtotheworld,whichisnowbetterprepared.Butthebeginningofthisworkwillbeasquietandunnoticedastheplantingofaseed.Itis108yearssinceH.P.B.'sbirth.Thereare108stepsonthepathtoNirvana.AmongstalltheyogisoftheHimalaya,108isregardedasthemostsacrednumber.Itisalsokabbalisticallyconnectedwiththeyear1939inamostimportantway.Therefore,thisyearwillwitnessthedepartureoftheadeptsfromTibet.TheirlocationwasalwaysasecretevenmostoftheHighLamasneverknewit.Tibethaslostitsvalueforthemitsisolationhadbeguntodisappearrapidlyanditsrulersnolongerrespondfaithfullytothem.TheyleaveTibetsevenhundredyearsaftertheirarrival."

8ThemonumentsoftheAngkorgrouparebuiltupinstone,mostofthemwithoutanycementingmortar(comparethiswiththeGreatPyramid).Nineoutoftenamongthemonumentsarereligiousedifices.Oneshouldnotvisittoomanymonumentsatatimelookatleisure,withoutfatigueorhaste.Oneshouldletoneselfbepenetratedbythecharmemanatinglittlebylittlefromtheseruins,whicharesoenigmaticalanddisconcertingatfirstsight,sodistantfromus,soopposedtoourwaysandunderstanding.Itispreferabletovisitmonumentsinthetropicsintheearlymorning,atthefirstlight.Afterninea.m.,undertheglaringsun,thecharmofthevisitisbrokenbytheheatandfatigueisfelt.

9SirFrancisYounghusbandcrossedtheGobiDesertonfootandexploreditagainonalateroccasion.Mongolia,whereitispositioned,asaLamaisticBuddhistcountry,owedspiritualfealtytotheDalaiLamainTibet.SirFrancistoldmeonedayofamysteriousMongolianwhomhehadmetandwhowithoututteringasinglewordaloud,purelybytelepathiccontact,hadpowerfullyinfluencedhismindandgivenitagreatlybroaderspiritualoutlook.ManyyearslaterImetthissameadept,thenanexileinCambodiafromhisnativelandwhichhadfallentotheCommunistatheistregime.ThroughtheservicesofaneducatedChinesedisciplewhowaswithhim,wewereabletoconverseaboutBuddhismandothermatters.Hegaveoutateachingwhichformedthebasisofmentalismandwhichwasoccasionallysosubtlethatitwentabovemyhead,butwhichIunderstoodsufficientlytorevolutionizemyoutlook.SomeofitstenetswereincorporatedinthementalismexplainedinmybooksTheHiddenTeachingBeyondYogaandTheWisdomoftheOverself.

10TheinscriptionisengravedontherightdoorpillarofthetempleofPoNagar,totheleft.Itcontainsthirteenlinesofwriting.ThelanguageisSanskrit."ThouareinthyveryessenceatonewithwhateverisintheworldofGodduringitscreationaswellasinitsdissolutionthouaretheprimordialenergyoftheexistentandthenonexistent.Hewhoseintelligenceismaturedbythediscriminationbetweenwhatisrealandsubstantialandwhatisnotwhoisworthyofregardwhomakesthelawprevailintheworldbymeansofmany,inherentlyexcellent,goodqualitieswhichhavetheirorigininhisownnature,inordertoprotectgoodpersons,bothbornandunborn,intheKaliagewhenthereisgoingonastrugglebetweenthepiousandthevicious."

11Buddha:ThatwhichtouchesmemostatAngkorcomestosightwithinalowcloister.AfigureofthedyingBuddhaliesonthegrassgrownpavedfloor.Astraychinkoflightcaresseshisbrow.ThesilentSagerestsinhisfinalmeditation.Ifoldmycoatandsquatbeforehim,amidtroopsofbuzzinginsects,forIcannotresistponderingovertheparadox

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 6/12

ofthisdesertedfane.Butaglanceatthefacereassuresmeandimpartsitsrepose.Therelingersoverityetanexpressionofabsolutecontentmenttheeyesarefarseeing,clairvoyant.Theblackantswhichrunbusilyaroundhim,preoccupiedwiththeirmaterialwelfare,carryinglargeseedstotheirhole,layingbyastorefortheleanmonths,arenotlessthoughtfulforthemselvesandtheirfuturethanBuddhawasforothers.HiscolddenialofalldesiresisnotattractivetotheactiveWest,buthissweetcompassionforalllivingcreaturesis.Fortyyearsofceaselesstravelandpatientteachingareatanend.Theseedhasbeenthoroughlysown.Itwillgrowsteadilyforhundredsofyearsandfeedmillionsofhumanbeings.Heknows!Thesparklinggemswhichlayinyondertreasuryhavelongsincebeenravished,butthewordsofGautamastillremain.TheDoctrinewhichheleavesbehindwillmeetsomewherewithreverenceitstrainedpropounderswillmeetsometimeswithlove.Thustheraceoffellowmortals,forwhomhefeelsasamotherforherchild,shallbetrulyserved.ToknowtheperversityofhumannatureinitspresentstatetoknowthegloryofhumannatureinitsfuturestatetoreceivebothfactssimultaneouslyintohisconsciousnessandtoholdthebalancebetweenthemthisiswhatbelongstotheBuddhaandtoalladepts!

12AngkorWatisthemostimportantandillustriousstrongholdofthisschoolandseatoflearningforseekersafterTruthfromalllands.OurAnuttaraMahayanaAdibuddhaschoolwasthedominantformofBuddhisminIndochinaforcenturies.MahayanaBuddhismandtrueHinduismwerethusinseparablethereduringmanycenturies,beginningwiththereignofKingJayavarmanII,thegreatestMahayanistatthecloseoftheeighthcentury,tothereignofKingShrindrajayavarmaninthefirsthalfofthefourteenthcenturya.d.Then,sixhundredyearsago,AngkorWatwasdestroyedforthefirsttimebytheSiameseHinayanainvaderswhocommittedagreatnumberofactsofvandalismagainstMahayanaimagesinIndochina.Mahayanapriestsweremassacred.Later,everythingpertainingtoMahayanawasdestroyedbytheSiamese.

13TherestorationandprotectionofAngkorruinshasbroughtgreatgoodkarmatoFrance.TheywereonthepointofbeingdefeatedintheGreatWar,buttheyweresavedalthoughtheydidnotknowit,itisAngkorkarmawhichsavedthem.TheFrenchrestoredAngkorwiththematerialisticobjectofattractingtravellers'money.Stillitwasameritoriousactandbroughtimmensegoodkarma.

14"GreatermastersthanmyselfwishyoutostudyinAngkorandusedmetogetyoutodoit.ItisAngkorWatwhereIrecommendyoutomeditate,sothatyoucanpickupagaintheinvisibleinfluenceofourAnuttaraschoolandthusbebenefitedbyit.Suchinfluenceofsacredspotsstillexistsinthem,andwewhohavelivedandstudiedthereinformerlivescanbehelpedbyrevisitingthereinthislife.TherearegreatmastersstillinAngkor,inspiritualbodies.Whenagreatyogiisabouttodieandcomposeshimselfinmeditationsamadhitoprepareforpassingout,hewillcontinueinmeditationforhundredsofyearsafterdeath,linkedtothesameplace.Hencevisitorswillfindtheatmospherehighlyspiritual,andearnestandadvancedseekerscangaingreatbenefitbyenteringtheauraofthesemastersatAngkor.EventouristswhoareoriginallymaterialisticpeoplewillunconsciouslyderivespiritualbenefitbyvisitingAngkor,eventhoughthisbenefitmaynotshineforthtillmanyyearslater."theHighLamamentionedinpara#

15TheKhmerracegavetotheThaiinvaderstheennoblingreligionofOurLordBuddhaGautama.AsmembersofthegreatCaucasianfamilyofthesocalledwhitepeoples,theKhmerwerehighlycivilized.TheyweredevoutBuddhistsandleftinSiamunforgettablemonumentsoftheirintenseBuddhisticcivilizationandgreatreligiousachievements.This

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 7/12

KhmernationconceivedandbuilttheworldfamousAngkorWat,oneoftheSevenWondersoftheWorld,AngkorThom,Bayon,andmanyothermarvelsofexquisiteBuddhistarchitecture.

16TheascriptioninvariousbooksonAngkorofthefourfacedtowerstheretoLokesvara(thesameasAvalokesvara)isnotcorrect.LokesvararepresentationsareverysimilarandhencetheerroroftheOrientalists.TheAngkoreffigiesrepresenttheChaturMaharajas(FourKings,inTibetan),yourSacredFour,andprimarilyAdiBuddha,whoiseverywherepresent,symbolizedbyfacinginallfourdirectionsofthecompass.InthewallarepainteddecorationsrepresentingtheRamayana.IntheGrandPalacewalljustinsidethecompoundoftheTempleoftheEmeraldBuddha,youseepaintedaLingamtowerwiththefourfacesoneachside,definitelyshowingitisAdiBuddha.

17AvalobsiteswaraofCambodiaandwhatisnowVietnamcorrespondstoKwanYininChinaGoddessofMercy.

18Itakeleavewhentherigorousheatreachesitsapogee.WhenatlastIdescendfromtheblacknessofthisshrineandreachthefreshairofthesunlitterraceagain,thefeelingthatIhavereturnedfromajourneytoanotherworldaccompaniesme.

19MoonlightvisittoAngkor:Asampanboatlandedmeontheforest'sedge.Iwalkedalonganarrowtrailunderthegiantpalmsuntilanopenspacewasreachedwheretheprodigiouspictureofloweringtemplesandpalacesshonesuddenlyinmoonlightappearingasbymagicintheverymidstofthicktropicalforest.Deathlystillnessreignedwhereoncetherehadbeensomuchactionandlife.

20Thehuge,tortuouslycurvedroofsofthetemplecametoaterminusinlongtaperingeleganthornsitsgailycolouredwallsshimmeredvividlyinthebrightsun.

21AnAngkorSanskritinscriptionrecordstheinstallationofatempleimageofBhadresvarabytheguruShivasoma,ofKingIndravarman.Thedateassignedisabout880a.d.Verse39recordsthat"ShivasomareadtheshastrafromBhagavanShankarawhoselotusfeetwererubbedbytheheadsofscholarslikerowsofbees"(mytranslationfromFrench).

22AngkorfellvictimtotheSiameseinthelastyearsofthefourteenthcenturyanditsbuildingswereabandonedtothejungle.Themonarchswhosatonitsgoldenandgarnetthronesdisappeared,andtheirthroneswiththem.ThesageswhotaughtHinduBuddhistsaffronrobedmonksinthetempleabbeyandmonasteryvanishedintothehillsandjungles.

23ThefulllightofthemooninIndochinacontainsayellowishgreenphosphorescencewhichweirdlybathesalltheseruins.

24WhentheinhabitantsfledfromendangeredAngkor,thecitydesertedbymenbegantobeinhabitedbyNature.Whiteants,dampness,andheatgraduallydestroyedthewoodenhomeswhichsurvivedtheinvaders'fires.Finally,vegetationwrestledwithstonesandwon.Theleafybotree,octopuslike,ayardingirth,creepsslowlytocertainvictoryover

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 8/12

mostbuildingsinTaProhm,insinuatingitsashenwhitepaperthinrootsbetweenstonesandaroundcolumns.Theygrow,extend,andthickenintomasterlyandhandsomerulerswhoholdthestructuresintheirgrasp.

25TheinscriptionofBatGum,whichbelongsalsotothisreign,isnothalfheartedlyBuddhist.Thefirststanzaofthesecondinscriptionisespeciallyinteresting,asthepoetRamabhagavatagiveshereadefinitionofBuddhismwhichheknowsissomethingnewandunorthodox:"LettheBuddhagiveyoutheBodhi,byWhomhasbeentaughtwellthephilosophydenyingtheexistenceoftheindividualsoulandteachingthecultoftheuniversalsoulthough[thetwoteachingsseemtobe]contradictory."ThethirtiethstanzareferstotheferventbeliefoftheministerinBuddhism:"Hewhoacquiredtheknowledge(attainedonly)byYogisbyrealizingtheidentityofhisownwiththedivinenatureofBuddha."

26TheinscriptionofBayang,inCambodia,bearingtwodates,526and546c.e.(604and624a.d.),istheearliestdatedonewepossess.Theartisticskillwithwhichthisinscriptionhasbeenengravedshowsahighstandardofperfectioncomparedwiththeearlierundatedinscriptions.Itbeginslikethis:"Hewhom,bytheconstantpracticeofcorrectreflectionandapeacefulframeofmind,thewisefeelasbeingenthroned[intheirhearts]...theinnerlight,whomtheyworship,desirousofattainingtheAbsolute."

27Itisengravedonthetwofacesofapillar,eachcontainingtwentytwolinesofwriting.ThelanguageisCham.(a)"TheYuvarajaembellishedandenrichedSrisanabhadresvaraheincreasedtherichesandthelandsofthegodheactedwithenergyandresolutionthethoughtofthegodIsvaradevata,otherwiseknownasYogisvara,wasalwayspresentinhismind.Bytheforceofeffortandconcentrationofmind,heatlastsawIsvaradevatabyamentalperceptionwhichwentasfarasSrisanabhadresvara.Then,withoutmucheffortonhispart,Isvaradevatabecameentirelyvisible(pratyaksa)tohim.Then,ashewasamanoftheworld,devotedtoSrisanabhadresvara...knowingthatthemanenjoysprosperityinthisworldandintheother."(b)"AfterthattheYuvarajaperformedallkindsofgoodworksandcharitableacts.Then,knowingthatthebodyanditspleasuresarevainandtransient,thatitperishesanddisappears,andthatSrisanabhadresvaraisthesupremegodinthisworld,theYuvarajaerectedthisstatue."

28YasovarmantheyoungkingbuiltthecityofAngkorThom,alsotheBayon,theWesternMebou,andothertemples.ThisempirethenextendedoverSiam,Cambodia,CochinChina,andLaos.Hediedin908a.d.ThegreattempleofAngkorWatwasnotfinishedtillthereignofJayavarnabVII,whodiedin1201.DuringhisreignCambodiareacheditszenith.Hepossessedvastwealthandhighterritories.Afewyearsbeforehisdeathherenouncedthethrone,crownedhisson,andwentintomonasticseclusiontomeditateonthemysteriesofBuddhism.HewasthegrandestofAngkoreankings.Angkorcitywasthenfamousforitsimmensetreasures,goldandgems,templesandpalaces.

29HereistheveryheartoftheWat.Istand,slightlyawedbeforeitsmostsacredshrine.Itsgloomisfitforghostsandsuchlikecreaturesofatwilightworld.Strangesqueaksandcriestormenttheairasgiganticgrislybatssweepagitatedlydownwardsandskimblindlyovermyhead,torejointheircompanions,whohangsuspendedbytheirclawsfromtheceiling.BrokenstatuesoftheBuddhaminglewithdecrepitfiguresofthegods,butafinelygiltwellpreservedBuddhaoccupiesthechiefplace.TheprimitivefaithofCambodiawasmostreverencedhere.Howmanymultitudesofkneelingadorershaveyou

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 9/12

seen,Oshrine?Yetmostsawyoufromafar,forthecommonherdwerenotpermittedtopenetratetothispoint.

30OutsidethecloisterIstrolldownaflagstonepathandstumblethroughaseriesofgalleries,passalabyrinthofpassagesandhundredsofmonkishcells,andsobacktothewestgate,wherethemysteriousmotifoftheFourFacesadornsthecanopy.

31ThosewhofirstcametoCambodiafromIndiawereadventurersandmerchants.WhothenbroughttheIndiancreedsandcultures?Theywerepunditsandascetics,asceticsadhus.

32WhenthefirstgodofAngkorwascut,Shivaismhadalmostgone,Vishnuismhadcome,andBuddhismwasstrong.

33Fromthethirdcenturyb.c.,the1500yearoldKhmerempireendured.

34AtAngkoryouwillsee,abovecertaintemples,fourgiantstoneheads,onesetoneachsideofasquare.

35Thenighthassurrenderedherselftocompletesilence.Nohumanvoice,noanimalcry,notasoundofanykindbreaksthestillness.IgazeupatthesilhouettesofthebeautifulsugarpalmtreesofCambodia.Thereisapeculiarpower,anexaltedstrength,inthesecalmmajesticfaces.

36AngkorWatwasplunderedandemptiedofitsrichesbytheconquerorswhodrovetheKhmersoutoftheircapital.

37TheNagaistobemeteverywhereinAngkor,attheendsofbalustradesitisintendedtorepresenttheCobraCapello.TheNagaistheseveralheadedsnakeandthespreadingofthe5,7,9,andsometimes11headsundertheshapeofafanoffersacurvemagnificent.

38AnotherdecorativeelementusedinCambodiaisthelion,halfseatedonhishindlegsatthedifferentlandingsofthestaircasesleadinguptothepyramidalstoreys.

39ThereisaKhmermuseumintheTrocaderoinParis.

40Theseremainsareofanartuniqueintheworldandtheonlywitnessofagloriousepochnowdisappeared.Foresttreeshaveentwinedtheruinedsanctuariesbetweentheirroots.Suchisthemightofthejunglevegetation,whichseemstobewaitingfortheworksofmentoabsorbandannihilatethem.

41TheKhmerkingdomhasgone,asallempiresgo,asallourbriefhumanexistenceitselfmustgo.

42

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 10/12

Angkorisincrediblygrand.Iclimbtheslipperyoldstairsofitstemples.ThetreeswhichsurroundtheWatareofenormousheight.HawksflyoverAngkor.TheforestteemswithgrowthandmovedirresistiblyonAngkorattheendofthethirteenthcentury.Itwasagreatmetropolis.Attheendofthefifteenthitheldthelairsoftigers.ThesilvermistsofdawnetherealizethetemplesofAngkor.Theascentofitsstairsisarduous.Thesomberpassagesarefetidwithbats.Ifeelonthevergeofmakingsomeastoundingdiscoveryhere.Theoldbronzewasanimagecometolife.

43"Khmer"isthenativenamebywhichCambodianscallthemselves.

44ThebuildersofAngkortemplescamefromIndiaoriginally.

45Cambodiancivilization,religion,andliteratureareimpregnatedbyIndiabutitstrade,industry,andmateriallifebyChina.

46ThedownfalloftheKhmernationbeganinthefourteenthcenturyanditsankunderinvasionbytheThais,fromthenorth.(TheThaisaretheSiamese.Thaiisarace,Siamapoliticalboundary.)

47WhenAngkormonumentswerebuilt,thecreedinfavourinCambodianwasMahayana,alsoinSiam.TodayonlyHinayanaisobserved.CambodiaMahayanaunitedworshipofShivaandBodhisattva,orBrahmanismandBuddhism.

48Buddhastatuepostures:(a)Handscrossedonlotusfoldedlegsismeditationpose.(b)OnehandstretchedbeforethightouchinggroundistomaketheearthtestifytoGautama'srighttothedignityofBuddhaagainstthedoubtsoftheEvilSpirit.(c)TheBuddha'sheadisidentifiablebecauseitshowsaprotuberance(oushnisha)whichinlaterSiamesefiguresbecomesaflameshapedpoint.Theearlapisalwayslongandhanging.(d)Heisseatedonamoulderedthronedecoratedwithlotuspetals.(e)WhenGautamalowershishandtothegrounditistotakethegoddessofearthasawitnessofallthemeritshehasacquiredbyhisinteriorgooddeeds,becauseMaraclaimshealonehastherighttotheseatonthethroneofwisdom.ThishappenedunderthefigtreejustpriortoNirvana.

49Angkorpetrifiedmelancholymystery!

50IftheruleofCambodiaresembledthatofmostOrientalcountriesinbeinganabsolutemonarchy,itdifferedinbeingpaternallybenevolent.

51Thebluishblacknightskywasnowdottedwiththepatternsofconstellations.Butdampnessdescendedupontheslumberingearth.WiththeIndochinesenightbothmosquitoesanddampcombinetospreadfatalfevers.

52"TheSiameseareimitators.TheKhmerwastherealspiritualrace.TheSiamesehavecopiedfromthem.LiketheJapanesetheyarenotcreators.ItwastheSiamesewhodestroyedAngkor.TheirpresentBuddhismisfeeble,uninspired.Adisasterwillovertakethem."aCambodianadept

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 11/12

53TheKhmerhavebequeathedgreatrelicsoftheirartisticculturetoplacesalloverThailand:Bimairuins,Lopburi,andBangkok.

54TheKhmercivilizationatAngkordidbuildtheirnowruinedbuildingsabouttheperiodwhicharchaeologistsassign,buttheirculturewasfarolder.TheywerespreadoutoverCambodiaandpartsofChina,Siam,Malaya,andJavaintoonelargecommunityatonetime.TheSiameseareadifferentrace,theThairace.

55Myramblescometoanendatitsstartingpoint.NowIpenetratetheinterioroftheWat.Avestibuleleadstoopencourtyards,alleys,andshrines.Inonesanctuaryanassemblageofmanystatuesliesscattered:itistheShrineoftheThousandBuddhas.Theplaceistorpid,environedbyvaguesilenceandundefinedsadness.UnderacoveredgalleryIfindaflightofstepswhichleadtoanupperfloor.Herethelightispoorerstill,asbefitsthemonasticchamberswhichliearound.Themonkswholivedherechosetheirhabitationwell.OnceagainIascendanoldstairway.Itissetatananglesoclosetoverticalthattheclimbisdangerousanddifficult.Moreoveritisdoubletheheightofthelastone.TheoldKhmersmusthaveusedropesorwoodenhandrailstoassisttheirexertions.BythelightofbarredwindowsIseethesignofthesacredserpent,symbolofeternityandmysticwisdom,againrepeatedonthewallsIdiscoverthatIhavereachedthehigheststorey.

TheWatisthebestpreservedandtheleastruinedofalltheKhmerfanes.TheCambodiansculptorsclearlyworkedonthesewallsaftertheblockswerealreadyinposition.Theycutdelicatelyandshallowlyintothefinesandstonetomakethesepolishedlowreliefs,andtheyworkedsohardthathardlyanyavailablesurfacewasleftuntouched.Thelongmagnificentlyexecutedfriezesofthegroundfloor,therichcolumns,withhardlyastoneleftuncarved,oftheotherstoreysnowdisappear,asthoughthesculptorshadalmostbeenforbiddentotouchthehighestsanctuary.Didthearchitectswishthatworshippersshouldherehavenoattentiondivertedbytheattractionsofform,shouldputtheirwholemindintocontemplationofthatintangibleSpiritwhichiswithoutform?

56IbroughtbackfrommyEasternresearchesasmallbronzeheadaboutninehundredyearsold.Beforeleaving,Isomewherefoundanativewoodcarverwhomadealotuspetaledrosewoodbaseandfitteditneatlyon.ThebronzewasgiventomeasapartingremembrancebyamanImetwhilestudyingtheAngkorantiquities.Wehadprolongedtalksfarintoseveralnights.HetaughtmemuchaboutthemysteriesofAsiaticoccultismandalsogaveasecondkeytothehigherwisdomofAsiaticphilosophy,withoutwhichthebooksaremerealphabets.WiththesetwokeysthefirstfromanIndianandthesecondfromaChineseMongoliansourceIcouldproceedtounlocksomeofthebafflingparadoxesoftheworld'sexistence."Weshallnotmeetagain,"hesaidfinally,"sotakethisandkeepit.ItrepresentsthebodhisattvawithwhomIamlinked."

Burma

57TheBurmesekepttheirBuddhismpurerthanthatofanyothercountrywhenitwasdrivenoutofIndiabytheBrahminsandlater,morebrutally,bytheinvadingMuhammedans.YetthosewhoseekteachersmostlyruntoIndiaalonethosewhoseekteachingruntoexpatriatedTibetansandZenJapanesealone.

14/5/2015 Ceylon, Angkor Wat, Burma, Java - Notebooks of Paul Brunton

http://paulbrunton.org/notebooks/15/4 12/12

58BurmeseBuddhismbelievesaman'ssoulcanpassbackintoananimal'sifitdegenerates.ABuddhistmaynoteatanimalfood(meat)buthemayeatfish.Thustheyaresemivegetarian.Theyarecleanandneat.

Java

59IndonesiahadastrongoccultcentreinthemiddleoftheislandofJava.Mostofitsleadershaveheldaninterestorbeliefinthesubject,consultingtheirgurusonoccasion,andevenwheretheyhadneithertheypretendedtopossessoccultpower.

TheNotebooksarecopyright19841989,ThePaulBruntonPhilosophicFoundation.