American Specialty Ammo

37MM CUP Reloading Information© 2010 3LC Productions

This reloading information is being provided by the developer and the manufacturer of the 37MM CUP. The developer and Manufacturer are not responsible for misuse, or illegal actions of the end-user. The information contained here is a “guide” only, and is not all inclusive as to the uses of the 37MM CUP. These loading instructions are prepared and tested using ASA (American Specialty Ammo) components, including the 37MM CUP, 37MM Fused CUP, Bushing, Aluminum Black Powder 37MM Casing, and Cap. The development and production of the CUP is a joint effort, between 3LC Productions, and American Specialty Ammo. Neither company is responsible for the misuse of this product.

It is up to the end-user to comply with all Local, State, and Federal regulations concerning 37MM Launchers and ammunition. If you have an unregistered 37MM flare launcher the first three loads are what you are limited to. You cannot load, or have on hand, any of the other loads contained here. Never point or fire an unregistered 37MM launcher at another human.

The 37mm CUP:

The 37mm CUP is a multi-use projectile container that is made to go hand-in-hand with the Aluminum casings sold by ASA. The bottom of the cup is .445” thick, and slightly concave. There are three gas checks machined into the bottom, and one half way up the casing. The long version of the CUP is 1.89” tall, and has an OD of 1.35” and an ID of 1.20”. The CUP can be cut by the end user to fit into smaller casings by cutting at the upper gas check. The sidewalls of the CUP are .085” thick. The CUP is capable of multiple uses. The CUP comes in four basic versions. The standard long cup as photographed above, the fused version of the long CUP, a short CUP (cut at the top gas check), and a short fused CUP.The short version of the CUP is 1.20” tall, and has the same other dimensions as the long CUP.

The Bushing is used in all ASA casings and serves the function of consolidating the black powder directly over the primer, causing it to burn in an upwards direction from that point, to the bottom of the

CUP, maximizing the power being provided by the lift charge. In other casings, the black powder is just piled on the bottom of the casing. When ignited, this powder pushes in all directions and can cause “belling” of the casing bottom. The bushing prevents this by its design. The bushing is 1.36” in OD, and .570” tall. It is designed to hold approximately 80 grains of fffg black powder or American Pioneer Black powder substitute. This load will work with most of the loads provided below. It is a substantial lift charge, however the casings being sold by ASA are of substantial quality. The loads below have been tested extensively and have been found to be completely safe for the normal 37mm launchers on the market today. The interior of the bushing tapers from an ID of .95” down to the same OD as the primer. It sits right on top of the flash hole of the primer, and concentrates the lift charge from that point.

This photo shows a bushing placed in a long casing. The primer can be plainly seen centered in the bushing. Use RTV around the bottom perimeter of the bushing, and allow it to set completely before using. Most times bushings can be used over, and over.

The cap is used to top off most of the loads provided below. It is a multi function cap that can be used to either cap the CUP, or sit on top of the CUP. In pyrotechnic loads the cap sits in the CUP with the “ASA” logo showing. It is glued in place after you place your flare mix, or stars and small burst charge, or smoke mix in a fused CUP. In a buckshot load, or rubber ball load, the cap sits on top of the cup with the “ASA” logo down towards the interior of the CUP and provides a rim to place hot glue or RTV silicone to hold your payload in place. Caps can be used a multitude of times, providing you can locate them on your range.

This photo shows a side view of the ASA cap.

Photo of a completed fused CUP with cap attached, ready to be loaded into a casing.

LOAD 1—SMOKE BURST DAYLIGHT DISTRESS SIGNALThis load consists of a charge of Firefox’s “Ninja Smoke Mix” and works fantastic as a visual distress signal during daylight. You will need the following:1. One 2” or 3” ASA 37MM Casing, One long fused 37MM CUP, One Bushing, One cap.2. Ninja White or other Smoke Burst Mix.3. One #209 Shotshell Primer.4. 40 or 80 grains of fffg black powder or American Pioneer powder. (DO NOT USE OTHER!)5. RTV silicone and hot glue w/hot glue gun.

HOW TO LOAD:1. Load the new primer into the casing using either a small string or thin paper towel to take up the space around the primer. Seat the primer with a flat object so it is level with the bottom of the casing.

Sitting the primer on the bottom of the casing with small piece of paper towel used to take up space. I use a flat bolt face chucked in a drill press (not running) to press in the primer.

Photo of placed primer with excess towel removed. If storing this round for any period of time, use nail polish to seal the area around the paper and over the primer, to keep moisture from entering your rounds. Black powder is very moisture sensitive!

2. Place a small amount of RTV silicone around the inside base of the casing, then place the bushing in the casing with “ASA” facing up. Make sure the bushing is seated on the bottom of the casing. Allow the silicone to dry over-night.

Photo showing the bushing seated all the way to the bottom of the casing. Be patient, and allow the RTV to set before using. If it does not set, you risk cracking your bushings!

3. Using a black powder volume measure, measure 40 grains (for a 250’ altitude signal) or 80 grains (for a 450’ altitude signal) of fffg black powder or American Pioneer BP substitute, and place the powder into the cut area of the bushing. If you are loading 80 grains, this will be roughly to the top of the bushing. If your powder goes over the top of the bushing, you are loading TOO MUCH powder. Empty it and re-measure your powder. Never load more than 80 grains into ANY ASA casing or load.

Reloading volume measure showing 80 grains of American Pioneer BP Substitute. Black powder is measured by VOLUME not weight! A measure like this costs about 7 bucks at your local black powder supply store.

Photo of interior showing bushing, and an 80 grain load of fffg black powder, NEVER use ffffg in this casing!!! Triple F is more than sufficient for reloading 37mm casings. As you can see, the 80 grains fill the bushing to the top, level with the top of the bushing. NEVER use more than this load!

4. Prepare your fused CUP. Start by using a razor knife, and cutting the exposed fuse at the bottom of the CUP at a 45 degree angle, making it ¼” long from the bottom of the CUP. Do not use a cutting tool like scissors or crimping type cutter. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on preparing Ninja Smoke Mix. Turn the CUP over and fill the internal cavity with Firefox’s Ninja Smoke Mix to approx 1/8 inch from the top of the CUP.

This photo shows the 45 degree cut in the base of the fuse. It is important to use a razor knife to cut your fuse. A two bladed cutter will smash the fuse and you will get “duds” that fail to ignite. Not a good thing in an emergency situation.

Fill with smoke mix to this internal height. Leave room for the cap and glue. Do not compress Ninja Smoke mix. It will prohibit the burn, and result in duds.5. Next take the cap, and run a bead of Gorilla glue or Elmer’s white glue around the inside of the CUP, place the cap into the cup so the “A.S.A.” is facing up. Allow the glue to dry before proceeding.

Completed CUP with Ninja Smoke Burst signal. Never, ever, use flash or other explosives in the CUP. If you want to know what can happen when someone uses flash powder in a 37mm round, please visit Grog’s safety page available off his home site here:http://www.freewebs.com/grog/safety1.htm 6. Place the completed CUP into the primed casing. If you are using a short 2” casing and a longer CUP, you will need to put 4 spots of hot glue around the bottom of the CUP before placing it in the casing. This will provide resistance and keep the CUP inside the casing until you are ready to fire it. 7. If you are using the longer 2.75 or 3” casing, simply drop the completed CUP into the casing, seating the CUP on top of the bushing. You will notice that the CUP rests approx ¼ to ½” below the casing rim. You will then run a thin bead of hot glue around the top of the cap, between the cap edge and the casing. Allow it to cool and harden.

8. If this signal is to be used at a later date, you can use nitrocellulose lacquer (fingernail polish) to seal the primer area, and the area around the shorter casing and the CUP. Allow to fully dry before storing.

You can use any permanent marker to write on the top of the cap, what is loaded in the CUP.

When fired, the primer initiates the black powder (lift charge), which also ignites the internal section of time safety fuse. The lift charge will push the CUP out of the launcher to an altitude of 250-450 feet AGL (above ground level) depending on the lift charge amount used. The time fuse will burn through the bottom of the CUP and into the payload chamber area, igniting the Ninja Smoke Mix. The resulting combustion of the mix will dislodge the cap, deploying the visual smoke signal.

LOAD 2—STAR FLARE OR STAR CLUSTER DAY OR NIGHT DISTRESS SIGNALThis load consists of pyrotechnic star mix, formed into either small stars or poured into the CUP, and works very well as a distress signal at any time.You will need the following:1. One 2” or 3” ASA 37MM Casing, One long fused 37MM CUP, One Bushing, One cap.2. Pyrotechnic Star mixture of your personal choice. (I recommend star mixtures that are compatible with black powder, and easily ignited with no prime)3. One #209 Shotshell Primer.4. 40 or 80 grains of fffg black powder or American Pioneer powder. (DO NOT USE OTHER!)5. RTV silicone and hot glue w/hot glue gun.6. 20 grains of fffg black powder or American Pioneer powder to be used as a “burst” charge if you are making a star cluster type round.

HOW TO LOAD:1. Prepare your casing as in #1-3 above.2. Prepare your CUP fuse as written in #4 above.3. Load your CUP with either wet flare mix (I recommend using the small cup unless you want the flare to continue to burn for over 30 seconds.) or your dry cut or rolled stars (for cluster). Keep the star mix and clusters at least 1/8” below the top of the CUP. Allow wet star mix to completely dry

before proceeding. If you are loading clusters, place the 20 grains of fffg burst charge into the CUP with the stars.4. Seal the CUP with the cap and follow instructions #5-8 above.

When fired, the primer initiates the black powder (lift charge), which also ignites the internal section of time safety fuse. The lift charge will push the CUP out of the launcher to an altitude of 250-450 feet AGL (above ground level) depending on the lift charge amount used. The time fuse will burn through the bottom of the CUP and into the payload chamber area, igniting the black powder burst charge. The resulting combustion of the burst will dislodge the cap, ignite the stars or star mix, deploying the visual signal. When using payloads that are combustible, always keep in mind the danger of forest fires. Never test fire flares in dry conditions. If you are near water patrolled by the US Coast Guard, never test fire flares of red color. False alarms can be dangerous to first responders.

LOAD 3—MUZZLE BLAST OC GAS DEFENSIVE MUNITIONThis load consists of loading the CUP with OC mixture, and works very well as a defensive munition against attack by animals.You will need the following:1. One 2” or 3” ASA 37MM Casing, One short or long 37MM CUP, One Bushing, One cap.2. OC mix of your choice.3. One #209 shotshell primer.4. 50 grains of fffg black powder or American Pioneer BP substitute.5. RTV silicone sealant and hot glue/hot glue gun.HOW TO LOAD:

1. Load your casing as listed in #1-3 above. If you are using a short casing, you must use a short CUP. 2. Prepare the CUP by loading it with your mix of OC (many OC mixes can be found on chemical pyrotechnic sites). 3. Place the CUP into your casing, and place the cap on top with the ASA side down. This will prevent the cap from entering the CUP, and sealing your payload. You will notice that the smaller rim provides a space around the perimeter of the casing inside. 4.Use either RTV or hot glue to place a thin bead around this perimeter, enough to keep the cap in place and seal the payload from moisture. Don’t over glue! You are only holding the cap in place.5. Allow the RTV to set prior to firing.

When fired, the primer initiates the black powder (lift charge). The lift charge will push the CUP and cap out of the launcher. The cap will move separate from the CUP, causing the payload contained in the CUP to be dispersed. Keep in mind that the cap and CUP are hard plastic pieces capable of causing extensive injury to animals. Only use the muzzle blast OC load in a truly defensive manner against animals. Never aim or use an unregistered launcher against humans.

LOAD 4—RUBBER BALL DEFENSIVE MUNITION (REGISTERED DD LAUNCHERS ONLY)

This load consists of loading the CUP with rubber balls, and works very well as a defensive munition against attack by animals or humans. It is to be used and possessed with registered 37mm Destructive Devices ONLY.You will need the following:1. One 2” or 3” ASA 37MM Casing, One short or long 37MM CUP, One Bushing, One cap.2. Rubber balls (Payload).3. One #209 shotshell primer.4. 70-80 grains of fffg black powder or American Pioneer BP substitute.5. RTV silicone sealant and hot glue/hot glue gun.HOW TO LOAD:

1. Load your casing as listed in #1-3 above. If you are using a short casing, you must use a short CUP. 2. Prepare the CUP by loading it with rubber balls, to 1/8” below the top of the CUP. No internal filler is needed.

3. Place the CUP into your casing, and place the cap on top with the ASA side down. This will prevent the cap from entering the CUP, and sealing your payload. You will notice that the smaller rim provides a space around the perimeter of the casing inside. Do not overload the CUP. Make sure any payload is below the level of the top rim of the CUP.

4.Use either RTV or hot glue to place a thin bead around this perimeter, enough to keep the cap in place and seal the payload from moisture. Don’t over glue! You are only holding the cap in place.

Here is a photo of the inside with the cap in place. Notice the “ASA” logo is facing down, and the smaller rim of the cap is up. This creates a nice rim around the top for RTV or hot glue.5. Allow the RTV to set prior to firing.

When fired, the primer initiates the black powder (lift charge). The lift charge will push the CUP and cap out of the launcher. The force of the lift charge compresses the rubber ball payload inside the CUP, then when the CUP exits the barrel, the pressure eases, and the rubber balls will assist in pushing the cap. The cap will move separate from the CUP, causing the rubber balls contained in the CUP to be dispersed. Keep in mind that the cap and CUP are hard plastic pieces capable of causing extensive injury to humans and animals. Only use the rubber ball load in a truly defensive manner against humans and animals.

LOAD 5-- #4 BUCKSHOT LOAD (REGISTERED DD LAUNCHERS ONLY)

This load consists of loading the CUP with copper or steel #4 buckshot, and works very well as a defensive munition against attack by animals or humans. It is to be used and possessed with registered 37mm Destructive Devices ONLY.You will need the following:1. One 2” or 3” ASA 37MM Casing, One short or long 37MM CUP, One Bushing, One cap.2. #4 copper or steel buckshot (Payload).3. One #209 shotshell primer.4. 80 grains of fffg black powder or American Pioneer BP substitute.5. RTV silicone sealant and hot glue/hot glue gun.HOW TO LOAD:

1. Load your casing as listed in #1-3 above. If you are using a short casing, you must use a short CUP. 2. Prepare the CUP by loading it with #4 Buckshot, to 1/8” below the top of the CUP. If you are using the long cup, you will need a spacer of some type to take up a bit of space. Too much shot will reduce the velocity of the CUP. Add either spacers, or folded paper to take up space, and use as much shot as would fit in the shorter section of the CUP. Do not use the long CUP in the short casing.

The above photo shows 4 test buckshot rounds loaded with copper shot.

3. Place the CUP into your casing, and place the cap on top with the ASA side down. This will prevent the cap from entering the CUP, and sealing your payload. You will notice that the smaller rim provides a space around the perimeter of the casing inside. 4.Use either RTV or hot glue to place a thin bead around this perimeter, enough to keep the cap in place and seal the payload from moisture. Don’t over glue! You are only holding the cap in place.5. Allow the RTV to set prior to firing.

When fired, the primer initiates the black powder (lift charge). The lift charge will push the CUP and cap out of the launcher. The cap will move separate from the CUP, causing the buckshot contained in the CUP to be dispersed. Only use the buckshot load in a truly defensive manner against humans and animals.

Target board of 2x4 treated plywood ½” thick with target attached, shot with two ASA buckshot loads from a distance of 25 feet. Rounds spread shot patterns from side to side, one pattern is at the top of the target, the other across the bottom.

LOAD 6—FLECHETTE (REGISTERED LAUNCHERS ONLY)

This load consists of loading the long CUP with 1.5” steel flechettes, and works very well as a defensive munition against attack by animals or humans. It is to be used and possessed with registered 37mm Destructive Devices ONLY.You will need the following:1. One 2” or 3” ASA 37MM Casing, One short or long 37MM CUP, One Bushing.2. 1.5” long Flechettes (Payload).3. One #209 shotshell primer.4. 80 grains of fffg black powder or American Pioneer BP substitute.5. RTV silicone sealant and hot glue/hot glue gun.HOW TO LOAD:

1. Load your casing as listed in #1-3 above. You cannot load flechettes in the short CUP or Casing.2. Prepare the CUP by loading it with your flechettes. The best type of flechettes are the ones that are woven into long strips. You can do the same thing using a strip of masking tape. Place a line of tape, sticky side up, on a table. Place your flechettes on the tape, one fin side up, the next fin side down. Keep placing until you get a 3-4” long piece. Pick up the tape with flechettes and wrap it around a 1.5” long piece of pencil. Wrap only enough flechettes to fill the CUP. Drop your flechettes and pencil into your CUP. Use a couple extra loose flechettes placed into the CUP to tighten the group. This will hold the flechettes in the CUP. Do not use a cap on top of this payload. Too many flechettes will reduce the velocity of the CUP. This is the reason a pencil piece is used, to take up space and allow you to wind the flechettes around something.

When placed in a bunch, like this, it makes deployment more difficult. Wind flechettes around a straw or pencil piece. 3. Place the CUP into your casing. If your CUP is loose, use 4 small dabs of hot glue on opposite sides of the CUP (N,S,E,W corners) to make the CUP stay inside the casing.

4. Place a cap on top of your round, “ASA” side down, then run a bead of hot glue around the perimeter of the cap.

When fired, the primer initiates the black powder (lift charge). The lift charge will push the CUP and flechettes out of the launcher. The flechettes will separate from the CUP, and disperse on firing. Only use the flechette load in a truly defensive manner against humans and animals.

Additional projectiles and loading data are under development. GROG