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Dyeing and Dyeing and Finishing Finishing Polyester/Cellulose Polyester/Cellulose blends blends
Wirote SarakarnkosolWirote Sarakarnkosol
PES/CELPES/CEL• Relative ease of processing• Versatility of application, leading to a wide range
of dyed and finished effects• Polyester/cellulosic yarns are used in sewing
threads and slub effects for apparel.• Woven staple 67:33 polyester/cotton (T/C) and
50:50 polyester/viscose (CVS) blends in numerous constructions form the well-established
Pretreatment of PES/CEL Pretreatment of PES/CEL blends blends • Desizing
– Enzyme with hot rinse• Scouring
– Avoid alkali hydrolysis with NaOH; – Na2CO3 should be used.
• Singeing– Avoid molten bead of PES (for exhaustion process, it has higher
depth)– Gas singeing is prefer than Plate singeing
• Mercerizing– Concentrate NaOH can not damage PES at room temperature
• Heat setting– Temperature should not exceed until CEL part is yellowing
• Bleaching– H2O2 and NaClO2 is the suitable bleaching agent
Different dyeing property Different dyeing property between PES and CELbetween PES and CEL
• Mildly acidic pH required.
• Not essential to use electrolyte.
• High temperature required.
• Both suitable in exhaustion and continuous process
Polyester
Different dyeing property Different dyeing property between PES and CELbetween PES and CEL
Cellulose
pH 0 7 144 10
Near neutral
Neutral - Alkali
Alkali
Strong alkali
RE
DO
X A
BS
EN
TR
ED
OX
PR
ES
EN
T
Temp 80-100oC
Temp 90-100oC
Temp 20 - 60oC
Temp 30-130oC
ELECTROLYTE FOR ALL
Confliction of simultaneous Confliction of simultaneous dyeing on PES/CEL blendsdyeing on PES/CEL blends
High
Temp
Normal
COTTON
POLYESTER
Acidic
pH
Alkali
POLYESTER
COTTON
ReductionClearing
After-Treatment
Soaping&Fixing
POLYESTER
COTTON
Surfactant
Ionicstrength
Electrolyte
POLYESTER
COTTON
• Constitution and applied depth of the dyes used• Heat treatment history of the polyester fibres• Degree of penetration of the polyester after
thermofixation• Degree of staining of the cellulosic fibres• Temperature and duration of the heat treatment
that causes the thermomigration• Presence of other contaminants on the surface
of the fibre components
Factor of severity of the thermomigration effect :
How to solve !How to solve !• Careful dye selection to avoid dyes prone to
thermomigration• Adequate thermofixation conditions to ensure
optimum penetration of the polyester fibres• Thorough post-clearing to minimise residual
staining of the cellulosic fibres• Lowering the curing temperature in subsequent
resin finishing• Minimal application of softeners and antistatic
agents at the finishing stage
PES/CEL : Dyes selection for PES/CEL : Dyes selection for exhaust dyeingexhaust dyeing
PES/CEL blend dyeing
Polyester reserve Solid shade
One-bath/One-stage One-bath/Two-stage1. Direct dyes2. Reactive dyes
Disperse dyes and disazomultisulphonated direct dyes at pH 6
Disperse dyes and reactant-fixabledyes with copper-specific sequesterant
Disperse dyes and nicotinotriazinereactive dyes at 130°C
Disperse dyes at 130°C, thenlow-reactivity dyes at 80–95°C
High-reactivity dyes (VS or FP) at low temperature, then disperse dyes at 130°C
Disperse dyes at 130°C, then selected vat dyes at 20–60°C
1. Disperse dyes / Direct dyes
130°C
80–95°C
Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 5 - 6Disulphonate dyesSalt
Fixing
30-60 min
10-20 minFor Black 22Must adjust pH
To 10-11 with soda ash
Selection of direct dyesSelection of direct dyes• Normally Disazo multisulphonate dyes
Y
R
B
G
Y 86
O 39
R 244
B 199
Bk 22
Bl 71
G 26
Bl 200
R 83Bk 112
Direct dyes : Commercial nameDirect dyes : Commercial name
• Sirius (Dystar)
• Solophenyl (Ciba)
• Solar (Clariant)
• Kayarus (KYK)
2. Disperse / Reactant-fixable directdyes
130°C
80–95°C
Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 5 - 6Disulphonate dyes Copper-specific sequesterant (Plexophor SFI)Salt
Fixing
30-60 min
10-20 min
Typical reactant-fixable direct dyeTypical reactant-fixable direct dye
Commercial name : Indosol (Clariant)
Fixing for Fixing for Reactant-fixable directdyes• The bifunctional type (60oC x 10-20 min): Indosol E-50
• gave fastness to washing at 50oC through the formation of an extensive dye–agent complex within the fibre.
• The trifunctional type (40oC x 15 min and then alkali 30 – 40 min): Indosol EF
• Forms covalent bonds with cellulose• Confers a higher degree of fastness to washing at 60oC even with
deep shades
• The tetrafunctional reactant resins (Pad Dry Cure 175 –180oC) : Indosol CR
• Confer the highest fastness, even to washing at the boil.• Applied with an N-methylol reactant such as DMDHEU and an acid-
liberating catalyst e.g. magnesium chloride to give a commercial product sold as a cationic reactant resin.
• Not only excellent wet fastness but also improved crease resistance and good dimensional stability.
3. Disperse dyes /Nicotinotriazinereactive dyes
130°C
Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with Phosphate buffer to 6 - 7Nicotinotriazine reactive dyesSalt
45-60 min
RinseSoaping
Nicotinotriazinereactive dyes
Commercial name : Kayacelon React (KYK)
Nicotinotriazinereactive dyes
CI Reactive Substituent X
Red 120 Cl Procion Red H-E3B (Dystar)
Red 221 Kayacelon React Red CN-3B (KYK)
4. Disperse dyes /Low-reactivity reactive dyes
130°C
80–95°C
Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with acetic acid to 4-5.5Reactive dyesSalt
Alkali
RinseSoaping
30-60 min
30-45 min
Low-reactivity reactive dyes
• Monofunctional• Aminochlorotriazine Procion H (Dystar)• Trichloropyrimidine Drimarene X (Clariant)
• Bifunctional• Bis(aminochlorotriazine) Procion H-E (Dystar)
Procion H-EXL (Dystar)
Procion XL+ (Dystar)
Advantage of alkali clearable Advantage of alkali clearable disperse dye disperse dye
DyeingAt 130oC
PES CEL CELPES
Alkali add
CELPES
Soaping
CELPES
Highest washing fastness of blends
Reactive dyes
Alkali clearable disperse dyes
5. Disperse / Vat dyes
130°C
Disperse dye and auxiliariesAdjust pH with acetic acid to 4-5.5Vat dyes
30-60 min
Reducing agentCaustic soda
20–60°C
Rinse
Oxidise
20-40 min 10 min
20–40°C
Vat dyes : Commercial nameVat dyes : Commercial name
• Indanthrene (Dystar)
• Cibanone (Ciba)
• Nihonthrene (Sumitomo)
Model of Disperse/Vat dyeing Model of Disperse/Vat dyeing on One bath/two stage on One bath/two stage
DyeingAt 130oC
PES CEL CELPES
Alkali and Reducing agent add
CELPES
Oxidising and Soaping
CELPES
Highest washing fastness of blends
Vat dyes
Normal disperse dyes
6. High-reactivity reactive dyes/ disperse dyes
40-60°C
130°C
Disperse dyesReactive dyesSalt
Alkali 30-60 min
30-60 min
Adjust pH to 4.0-5.5
RinseSoaping
High-reactivity reactive dyes which resist acid hydrolysis • Vinyl sulphone (VS)
• Remazol (Dystar)• Sumifix (Sumitomo)
• Fluorochloropyrimidine (FCP)• Levafix EA (Dystar)• Drimarene K (Clariant)
• Bifunctional of VS and Fluorotriazine• Novacron C (Huntmann)• Levafix CA (Dystar)• Drimarene CL (Clariant)
PES/CEL : Dyes selection for PES/CEL : Dyes selection for continuous dyeingcontinuous dyeing
PES/CEL blend dyeing
Polyester reserve Solid shade
Disperse/Vat Disperse/ReactiveReactive dyes with sodiumbicarbonate and urea
Pad–dry–thermofix–pad–steamHigh-energy disperse dyes andselected vat dyes
Pad–dry–thermofix-jig developHigh-energy disperse dyes andselected vat dyes
Pad–dry–thermofix- Selected disperse dyes and high- reactivity dyes with sodium bicarbonate and urea- Selected disperse dyes and Phosphonic acid derivative reactive dye
Pad–dry–thermofix–pad–steamSelected disperse dyes and high- reactivity dyes
Pad–dry–thermofix (1): Disperse/Reactive dyes
Disperse dyesHigh reactivity reactive dye Migration inhibitorReduction inhibitorHygroscopic agent (Urea?)Wetting agentSodium bicarbonate or sodium formate
180 – 220oC with variation of time
RinseSoaping
Disadvantage of ureaDisadvantage of urea
> 135oC
Alternatives to urea in thermosol dyeing and thermofixation
Suitable reactive dyesSuitable reactive dyes
• Fluorochloropyrimidine (Levafix EA, Drimarene K)
• Dichloroquinoxaline (Levafix E)
• Monofluorotriazine (Novacron F)
Interaction between disperse dyes and MCT dyes
Pad–dry–thermofix (2): Disperse/Acid fixable reactive dye
Disperse dyesPhosphonic acid derivative reactive dyeDicyandiamideMigration inhibitorReduction inhibitorHygroscopic agentWetting agent
180 – 220oC with variation of time
RinseSoaping
Reaction mechanism of phosphonic acid derivative with cellulose
Phosphonic acid derivative reactive dye
Pad–dry–thermofix–pad–steam: Disperse/Reactive dyes
Disperse dyesReactive dyeMigration inhibitorReduction inhibitorWetting agent
180 – 220oC with variation of time
100 – 120oC with variation of time
Caustic sodaCommon salt
Thermofix Steam
RinseSoaping
Pad–dry–thermofix–pad–steam: Disperse/Vat dyes
Disperse dyesVat dyeMigration inhibitorWetting agent
180 – 220oC with variation of time
100 – 120oC with variation of time
Caustic sodaHydrosCommon salt
Thermofix Steam
OxidiseSoaping
Pad–dry–thermofix-jig develop: Disperse/Vat dyes
180 – 220oC with variation of time
Caustic sodaHydrosCommon salt
Disperse dyesVat dyeMigration inhibitorWetting agent Oxidise
Soaping
Dyeing and Dyeing and Finishing Finishing Polyester/Elastane Polyester/Elastane blends blends
Wirote SarakarnkosolWirote Sarakarnkosol
Problem of PES/EL blend Problem of PES/EL blend dyeingdyeing
• Disperse dye which are dyeing on polyester have the tendency to stain on Elastane
• Disperse dyes which stained the elastane component of blend has poor fastness
• Thermomigration of disperse dyes from polyester to elastane occurs which result in colour change
Elastane morphology:Elastane morphology:Hard and soft segmentHard and soft segment
SoftSoftsegmentsegment
HardHardsegmentsegment
HardHardsegmentsegment
HardHardsegmentsegment
SoftSoftsegmentsegment
Hard segment: For recovery, dimension stability and elastic of elastaneHard segment: For recovery, dimension stability and elastic of elastane
Soft segment : For flexibility, stretching and elongation of elastaneSoft segment : For flexibility, stretching and elongation of elastane
PES/EL blends and locking of PES/EL blends and locking of disperse dyes.disperse dyes.
Room temp
Tg of softsegmentof EL
Tg of PESand hardsegmentof EL
Tg = Glass transition temperature
Useful condition
Under Tg : dye can be locked
Above Tg : dye can migrate
Under Tg : dye can be locked
Above Tg : dye can migrate
Heat setting on PES/EL blendsHeat setting on PES/EL blends
• Temperature should higher than Tg of hard block for re-crystallization of elastane.
• Should not exceed for prevent the yellowing and degradation of elastane
• Optimum condition for heat setting is 180 – 190oC for 20-35 seconds.
Scouring of PES/EL blends.Scouring of PES/EL blends.• Elastane have a high lubricant level (2-5%) due
to the inherent tackiness of the fibers.• Main component of lubricant is SILICONE and
hydrocarbon types.• Aqueous surfactant scouring are extracted only
50% of the oil.• Solvent scouring give excellent removal of the
fiber lubricants, but it also extract the additive e.g. UV absorber or pollution protecting agent
Dyeing of PES/EL blends Dyeing of PES/EL blends • Optimum dyeing temperature should about
125 – 130oC due to the highest absorption and migration to PES part.
• Shorter fixation time for disperse dye for minimum damage to EL (fixation time 15-30 min)
• Alkali clearable disperse dyes should use for dyeing on PES/EL blends for highest wet-fastness.
Disperse dyes adsorption on Disperse dyes adsorption on PES and EL in same bathPES and EL in same bath
70 80 90 100 110 120 130 130oC 30 min
100% PES
100% EL
Reduction clearing of PES/EL Reduction clearing of PES/EL blendsblends
• Alkali dithionite and thiourea dioxide is the most suitable for reduction clearing on PES/EL blends with low temperature (60-70oC).
• Acid reduction clearing is not suitable on PES/EL due to higher temperature (80-90oC) can induce the migration of disperse dyes from EL to rinse bath.
Conclusion :Conclusion :• Polyester/Cellulose blends can be dyed
with disperse dyes and other dyes for another blends with suitable dye class and dyeing condition for balancing the essential parameter to highest fastness and reproducibility
• Polyester/Elastane blends provide the lower fastness than those of original polyester, thus disperse dyes which use for dyeing blends must be selected for highest fastness and reproducibility