Part 1fuselage

Hi guys !Here's a new buildthread about the Messerschmitt 262... I know it's not the first, but this one is a so nice flyer... I couldn't resist.I designed her to be easily flyable and to allow (almost) everyone to fly it without "steelnerves". The first one i built 4 years ago used the brushed motors version of the GWS EDF 50, so she was underpowered and motors lifetime was very short (like the real one...). When brusless motors like Feigao 1230 were available, i decided to build a new one, and i was not desappointed : She was just like i wanted, with a nice scale looking, enough power, reliability, lightweight and good flying characteristics. She's not supersonic, and only needs cheap equipments.Let's see some specs :WS : 1100 mm (43,3")WA : 18,5 dm2W : 555 grams (18,69 oz)WL : 30g/dm2controls : Throttle, ail., elev. (rudder is possible and recommanded)2x GWS EDF 50 (2x3x3 rotors), 2x Feigao 1230 5300kv, 2x Castle creations Thunderbird 09, 3s1p TP 1320 mA.

Downloadable plans here : http://www.parkjets.com/me-262.html

As usual, the airframe is out of 3 mm Depron, with use of foam blocks, 6mm deprons, 0,4 mm plywood and 3 mm balsa in some places. The main preoccupation during this build is to save weight everywhere it's possible to get the best Thrust/Weight ratio and wingload. There's no power to spare, so it's a good thing to keep an eye on the scale...Of course, it'd be possible to overpower it with a pair of microfans and razor 300, for ex. But it'd be essential to reinforce the structure with a sandwich balsa/carbon:balsa spar and hard balsa leading edges, and to change thrustline by adding 1° downthrust.

1

The first step of the build is cutting all the pieces from 3 mm Depron : Formers and basis.

The upper fuselage is built first. Formers are glued on the basis before glueing the rear fuselage skin panels between formers F5, F6, F7, F8.

Nose cone curves are made with small 3mm depron stripes glued between formers F1 to F5... this method will remember something to those who are used to balsa works... Don't worry, it's not so long it seems to be !

2

Vertical fin is built before to be glued on the rear part of the basis (beware of angles, and don't forget the elev. pushrod !). In this step of the build, you'll have to decide if you want the rudder control suface... I've just one thing to say : I miss it on mine !Before starting on the construction of the lower fuselage, don't forget to draw the stab. location and incidence (0°), it's the best moment.

3

Of course, the lower part of the fuselage is built using the same ways as for the top. The main difference is the battery tunnel in the nose cone. With holes everywhere for battery cooling.

Lower part of nose cone is also built by glueing 3mm depron stripes on formers F1 to F5

A small foam block is glued and sanded in end of the nose cone construction.

Q: Can you explain by pictures how you cut the depron strips for post 7 & 11. Looks like they are not equal width at the ends. One side seems longer/larger than the other. How do you determine the size of the strips and are all the strips the same?

A: Cutting stripes is not difficult. I just use a front view with all the formers of the nose cone, trace some radius from the center and measure -more or less- the width needed.Then, just have to cut the stripes from Depron, adjust and glue them on the nose cone formers.

4

Work on the rear part of the lower fuselage (there's a vertical sheet of 3 mm Depron between F7 and F8 formers)...

Because of the small radius, work on the tail cone is a bit different : Two sides are glued first. Then, the bottom (2 x 6mm Depron is glued and sanded.

Work on wing saddle. Just glue the 2 3mm depron sides. The work on this part will be ended later, when the wing's ready.

The fuselage is sanded and daubed with a mix of white glue for wood, water and microballs filler. Then it's carefully and finely sanded and a small and discreet NACA intake for battery cooling is added on the nosecone bottom, in the gear door location. Battery cooling is completed on the top of the nose cone with the four cannon mouths (drinking straws).

5

Part 2nacelles

Work on nacelles begins with the intakes. They're out of 0,5 mm balsa. Stripes are rolled and glued around a 50 mm PVC or cardboard tube. 2 or 3 larger stripes are enough. Then, 4 or 5 narrow stripes are added to allow nice smooth intake lip sanding.Don't pay attention to the 5 bladed rotors on the pics, the right ones are the 2 x 3 x 3 (3 bladed).

Q:It looks like there is a step where the balsa meets the fan housing. Do you leave that step or add another layer of balsa?

A:Yes Steve, you can add another layer of balsa, or link up with a small filler join.

6

The second step for the nacelles construction is the bottom. Nothing difficult : They're just semicylindrical. 6 mm Depron formers are glued on the 3 mm Depron basis. Then, the exhaust housing is cut (as shown on pic n° 2), but the remaining sheet of depron is not removed yet to save some rigidity during the 3 mm Depron skin glueing (pic n° 3).

When the semi cylinders construction is ended, just glue the sides of the nacelles on the top and add the formers and cut the exhaust housing in top formers and basis. Depron sheets can be removed. No other way than building a PORTSIDE AND STARBOARD NACELLE, so be carefull during this step . I know some guys who have been conned... But i'll keep their names secret !

7

Don't pay attention to the inscription... I often work long time past midnight...

The top, nose cone and tail cone are out of styrofoam blocks. Intakes and exhausts holes are drilled with a bell-saw first. Then the top and tail cone blocks are glued and sanded.The balsa intake ring is glued int the intake block, put in place and sanded. IT IS NOT PERMANENTLY GLUED YET (the EDF is still to be installed).

8

The exhaust lip is reinforced with a small 0,plywood stripe.