2020 WOMEN’S PRODUCTINFORMATION GUIDE

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Pendleton Shirts - It's All About the Wool From the very beginning, Pendleton shirts have been defined by Pendleton fabrics. The strength and durability of a Pendleton shirt starts with 100% virgin wool. No other fiber can take or hold a dye like wool, so our yarn-dyed plaids stay true and vibrant for generations. This means that a Pendleton wool shirt is an investment in quality that can be passed from mother to daughter to granddaughter.

Our earliest shirts from the 1920s and 1930s were often sewn of solids and mixes. Then came the plaids, from the subtle ombres and shadow plaids of the 1940s and 1950s, to the brighter checks and tartans of the 1960s and 1970s. A Pendleton plaid is recognizable at a glance.

Plaids and Tartans – There is a Difference!

All tartans are plaids, but not all plaids are tartans. Tartans often have broad bands of colors, always at right angles to each other, mixed with narrow horizontals and verticals. In Scotland, a clan often has its very own identifiable tartan colored in a very specific way that is registered with the Scottish Register of Tartans. Pendleton identifies authentic tartans with special supplemental hangtags.

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PENDLETON FABRIC NAMES

AirLoomTM Merino FabricsOur lightest wool fabrics, woven in our Pacific Northwest mills of the finest worsted merino wool yarn. Naturally odor- and wrinkle-resistant. Woven to be tailored, with a fine hand and smooth finish.

LuxeWeave Merino FabricsLuxurious merino wool fabrics with soft, brushed finishes that lend a cashmere-like touch. Our lightest wool fabrics, woven in our Pacific Northwest mills of the finest worsted merino wool yarn. Naturally odor- and wrinkle-resistant. Woven to be tailored, with a fine hand and smooth finish. replaces UltraFine Merino

New Fabric! replaces Zephyr replaces Sir Pen Twillreplaces Sir Pen

replaces Whisperwool

Umatilla Wool100% Virgin Wool. Medium weight 10.1 oz virgin wool shirting material. Versatile outdoor and indoor wear. Plain weave. Takes its name from Oregon’s Umatilla County, home of the Pendleton, Oregon mill and where Pendleton has been buying wool from local sheep ranchers for generations.

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©2017 Pendleton Woolen Mills, Portland, OR Reg US Pat Off

BENEFITS WOOLof

Wool is the first choice for fine tailored garments because of its superior ability to be shaped to the vision

of the designer, and retain that shape year after year.

S U S T A I N A B L E& R E N E W A B L E

R E S I L I E N T& W R I N K L E -R E S I S T A N T

In a time of sustainability and environmental consciousness, this biodegradable renewable resource remains longer-lasting and better looking than synthetic fabrics.

The unique characteristics of the individual wool fibers give our fabrics the ability to hold a shape, resist wrinkles and withstand wear. This makes wool great for travel. Wool can be stretched or twisted and its cells return to their original position.

Wool fibers spring back to shape keeping their open, porous nature. Wool provides the most warmth with the least weight. The air trapped inside (about 80% of wool fabric volume) makes wool an excellent insulator. Wool is Nature’s original outdoor “performance” fiber.

Unless it is in direct contact with flame, wool will extinguish itself. The denser the weave and the greater the fabric weight, the less likely it is to char because of its smaller oxygen content. Fire departments recommend the use of wool blankets, rugs or coats to put out flames.

Wool has a permanent natural luster it never loses, even a�er years of hard wear. It absorbs dyes until it is completely saturated so colors stay brilliant. No other fiber can be spun or woven into such a variety of weights, textures, finishes and colors.

Wool repels light water, like a rain shower, because of the membrane on the outer scales. In very wet conditions, wool can absorb up to 30% of its own weight without feeling damp. And because of insulation ability, wool “breathes,” allowing the body’s natural moisture to pass through.

Pendleton sources wool �om more than 30 different breeds of sheep, so that we can match the qualities of the fiber to the finished fabrics. By controlling the entire manufacturing process, we can create the best fabric for each use.

N A T U R A L L YC O M F O R T A B L E

F L A M ER E S I S T A N T

L U S T R O U S &F A D E R E S I S T A N T

W A T E R & S T A I NR E P E L L E N T

S U R P R I S I N G L YV A R I E D

W A R R A N T E D T O B E A P E N D L E T O N W O O L E N M I L L S P O R T L A N D , O R U S A

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WOOL SHIRT STYLES

WOMEN’S BOARD SHIRT®

COOPER COVERED PLACKET SHIRT

PIPER CROPPED SHIRT

TM391TM406

TM341 TM401

Two matched flap pockets, button front, slightly shaped shirt tail hem.

100% Virgin Umatilla Wool

New style in AirLoom® stretch worsted wool! Covered front placket, shirt tail hem.

97% Virgin Wool/3% lYCRA® SPANDEX

Button-front, two bias-cut front patch pockets, inverted center back pleat, straight hem.

100% Ultraluxe Merino Wool

BOYFRIEND ZIP WOOL HOODIE

TM413

Button front, matched front kangaroo pock-ets, hood with drawstring, slimming diagonal front seams with pockets, rounded hem.

100% Virgin Umatilla Wool

TM420TM431

TM425

CROPPED LODGE SHIRTTM332 Button front, one matched button-through pocket, shirt tail hem.

100% Virgin Umatilla Wool

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WOOL SHIRT STYLES

JACQUARD CROPPED LODGE SHIRT

WESTON WOOL SHIRT

TM328

TM402

Button front, one chest pocket, shirt tail hem.

100% Virgin Wool

Button front, one open chest pocket, shirt tail hem.

100% Virgin Wool

WOOL-GAUZE STYLES

HELENA BUTTON FRONT SHIRT

BUTTON FRONT DRESS

TM311

TJ339

Button front, oversized fit, one chest pocket, shirt tail hem.

80% modal, 20% wool

Button front, band collar, self belt, shirt tail hem.

80% modal, 20% wool WITH 100% polyester lining

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NON-WOOL SHIRT STYLES

PRIMARY FLANNEL SHIRT

ELBOW PATCH FLANNEL SHIRT

GRAPHIC L/S SHIRT

TM227 TM258

TM309 TM338

TM428

Button front, one chest pocket, shirttail hem in super soft flannel.

100% Cotton

Button front, bias back yoke, two peaked flap button-through chest pockets, shirttail hem, self-fabric elbow patch in soft flannel.

100% Cotton

Button front, two pleated chest pockets with button flaps, high/low hem with vents at hip.

100% silk

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VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The Pendleton ’49er™ is a perfect illustration of the adage that quality never goes out of style.

This jacket is an American classic, still going strong after more than sixty years. But where did it come from?

Pendleton’s success with men’s shirts had happened twenty years earlier, but during WWII, men were not the only people enjoying distinctive plaids and ombres in pure virgin wool. Women began to borrow men’s work shirts for both work and warmth. Women loved Pendleton shirts.

In 1949, when market research identified an opportunity for sportswear for women, Pendleton entered the market with their first women’s line. This was a test offering of five classic skirts, jackets and a shirt, to test exactly how the American woman would react to a branded line of virgin wool sportswear. The positive response was resounding, but no one could have predicted the enormous success of a single garment introduced that year. The ’49er™.

THE ’49er™ RETRO

TF477

Lined, button front, patch pockets at hip, one patch chest pocket, all pockets cut on the bias, shirt cuff, straight hem, longer shaped body.

100% Virgin Umatilla Wool

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VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The designer was Berte Wiechmann, a young woman who came to Pendleton from Jantzen, another iconic Portland apparel company. Miss Wiechmann sewed the original samples herself, taking styling particulars from the Pendleton men’s shirt. The ’49er™ jacket featured discreet tucking at the yoke, and two bias-cut patch pockets near the hem. The boxy cut showcased Pendleton’s famous plaids, and larger iridescent shell buttons softened the look.

The desirability of the ’49er™ was immediate, despite the introductory retail price range of $14.95 to $17.95. Says Linda Parker, head of Pendleton Communications, “We have

many testimonials of how young women saved their babysitting and strawberry-picking money in order to buy a ’49er™. Women everywhere had it on their wish list of gifts.” The first consumer was the collegiate girl, who were in the grips of a menswear inspired trend. The ’49er™ was perfect over a white cotton dress shirt over “trews,” narrow wool pants.

The earliest ’49er™ in the Pendleton archives is a red, yellow and chartreuse version owned by Mrs. Sarah Brourink, who sent it to our archives in the year 2000 after wearing it for 51 years. Here is a vintage example in the exact plaid.

In the years of its prime (1949-1961), over a million Pendleton ’49ers™ were sold to American women. And it continues to sell well now, after re-introduction in the early 2000s.

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Heritage Designs These sweaters use our famed geometric patterns, designs from our century-plus of blanket weaving. In cotton, merino, alpaca, and lambswool, our storied past inspires the most popular looks of today. TC969, TC057, TC973, TC972, TC835, TC993, TC010, TC022, TC995, TC992, TC980, TC984

SWEATER STYLES

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Shetland Classic sweaters with refreshed style. Our Shetland program is sourced with New Zealand wool, known for humane and sustainable sheep ranching. TC910, TC023

SWEATER STYLES

Merino Key Items Soft to the touch, silky next to the skin, merino wool is a perfect base layer in Fall and Winter. In vibrant Pendleton colors, these items are an excellent value for long wear, resistance to pilling, and ability to hold shape, season after season. TC961, TC923, TJ337, TC886, TC391

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JACQUARD WOOL OUTERWEAR

Blanket Inspiration Pendleton outerwear is an investment in enduring quality, thanks to the jacquard-loomed wool fabrics inspired by our wool blanket patterns.

TF543, TF557 - Sierra Ridge / Sierra Peak

TF534 - Tan Chief Joseph

TE215 - Sunset Stripe

TF544, TE233 - Sonora

TE204 - Santa Rosa

TE188 - Tan Harding

TE213 - Black/Tan Harding

TE219 - Glacier Park

TE230 - Grey Plains Star

TE218 - Navy Plains Star

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JACQUARD STORIES

Pendleton fabrics tell stories. Since the early 20th century, our looms have woven designs that honor legendary locations and heroes. Here are the stories behind some of the patterns for Fall 2020.

Sierra Ridge / Sierra Peak - TF543, TC057, TF557, TM238

The Sierra Nevadas are the traditional grounds of many Native peoples. The Sierra Miwok, Mono, Kawaiisu, Northern Paiute and Tubatulabal tribes have lived and hunted here. The Paiutes called its tallest granite peak Tumanguya, or, “the Very Old Man.” Also called Mt. Whitney, it is the highest point in the contiguous United States. The mountains of the 400-mile range are represented by stepped peaks, with arrows guarding the streams and rivers of the Great Basin watershed.

Chief Joseph - TC973, TF534, TC972

First woven in the 1920s, the Chief Joseph pattern has been one of Pendleton’s most popular ever since its introduction. Chief Joseph led the Nez Perce tribe of northeastern Oregon in the late 1800s, and was widely admired for protecting his people and speaking the truth. He is honored with this design of bold arrowheads that represent his courage, strength and integrity.

Sonora - TF544, TC977, TE233

The Sonoran Desert in the Southwestern United States and Northern Mexico is the largest and hottest desert in North America, with a mystical landscape that features the rare and unique plant life that’s adapted to the harshness of the climate. Peaks and hooks represent these botanical wonders. The long-armed Saguaro cactus stretches its arms to the desert sky, along with Sonora’s other spiny, spiky cacti; organ pipe, cholla, prickly pear, fish hook and more.

Harding - TE188, TE213, TC022, TC995

In 1923, President Warren G. Harding and his wife traveled to Oregon to dedicate a part of the Old Oregon Trail. At the ceremony, local Cayuse and Umatilla leaders presented the First Lady with a custom Pendleton fringed shawl. This pattern came to be known as the Harding pattern, after First Lady Florence Harding.

Glacier Park - TE219, TC983, TC979

On a background of white, stripes of black, yellow, scarlet and green represent Montana’s spring wildflowers blooming among the glaciers, lakes and rivers of Glacier National Park.

Plains Star - TE230, TC980, TC984, TE218

Great Plains Native Americans used an eight-pointed geometric star on hide paintings, tipis, beaded moccasins and clothing, with each point corresponding to one of the planets that shine as the Morning Star. The Lakota Sioux have translated their heritage of painted buffalo robes into intricate and dazzling quilts featuring this motif. Using muted colors that echo the original painted hides, the Morning Star rises, promising a new day.

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STYLE GLOSSARY

DRESS STYLES

Shift DressA straight dress with a loose-fitting waist.

Coat DressA tailored dress that fastens in the front, often belted, resembling a coat.

JumperA collarless, sleeveless dress that can be worn over a top or blouse.

Sheath DressA knee-length dress cut close to the body.

Shirt Dress or Shirtwaist DressA dress that borrows its styling from a men’s dress shirt, with collar, placket, and cuffs.

Wrap DressA dress that crosses over or wraps, with a front tie or button closure to one side. A “mock wrap” has the crossover styling, but is sewn in place.

PANT STYLES

BootcutFlaring slightly under the knee to be worn over boots easily.

Crop PantPants are hemmed above the ankle bone.

Slim or SkinnySnugly fitted through the entire leg with a small leg opening, these pants keep a trim silhouette.

Straight LegPant with a consistent straight line from hip to ankle.

Trouser A loosely tailored pant that is sometimes (but not always) pleated at the waist and cuffed at the hem.

Wide LegA pant with a relaxed a-line fit through the leg that can range from stovepipe to palazzo pants.

OUTERWEAR STYLES

CapeA sleeveless cloak.

Car CoatA shorter, more squarely shaped coat, short enough not to be sat on by the driver of a car.

DusterLight loose fitting long coat. The original full-length dusters were worn by horsemen to protect clothing from dust.

Moto JacketJackets with style details (zippers, waist-cinches) based on the traditional leather motorcycle jacket.

Pea Coat or PeacoatA short double-breasted heavy wool coat, traditionally worn by sailors.

Coat vs. Jacket Coats are longer than jackets. Jackets reach the waist or hip, while coats reach the thigh or longer!

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STYLE GLOSSARY

Quilted JacketMade with “pockets” of insulation material separated from each other by stitching.

Riding JacketInspired by traditional equestrian style, a shaped jacket with a back vent and three pockets.

ShawlA larger triangular or rectangular garment worn wrapped around the shoulders and sometimes the head.

Swing CoatA coat that flares dramatically from the shoulders, cut for movement and swing.

TrenchA loose raincoat with military lines, belted at the waist, based on military coats worn in the trenches.

VestA sleeveless jacket.

WalkerA knee-length coat meant to be worn while walking.

Wrap A triangular or rectangular garment worn wrapped around the shoulders.

Wrap CoatA coat that wraps around the wearer, secured with a belt rather than buttons.

SKIRT STYLES

A-lineFitted at the hips and widening out to the hem, for a triangular shape.

Boot SkirtAlso known as a prairie skirt, it is long enough so that only the boots of the wearer show.

Pencil SkirtA very narrow and straight skirt, often with a “kick pleat” in back to allow for some movement.

Pleated SkirtPleats are parallel folds of fabric stitched in place. Pleated skirts can be pleated in front or all around, with pleats that are open from the waistband, or stitched down to lie flatter on the hips.

Reversible SkirtPendleton’s famous pleated skirt, known as a “Turnabout,” can be turned inside out and worn with either side out. It is carefully finished so that both sides are garment-ready.

Wrap SkirtA skirt that wraps around and is secured at the waist with a tie or buttons.

SWEATER STYLES

CardiganA long or short sleeved sweater that buttons up the front.

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STYLE GLOSSARY

CoatiganA sweater coat that buttons up the front.

DusterA long, open sweater with no (or minimal) fasteners in the front.

PonchoA pull-on cape; the only opening is for the head.

PulloverA sweater that is pulled on over the head.

Shawl CollarThis sweater has an exaggerated fold-over self-collar.

TunicA sweater that extends to the wearer’s thighs, often loosely fitted.

VestA sleeveless sweater, meant to be worn over a blouse or top.

NECKLINES

BalletBased on a ballerina’s dance leotard, it scoops modestly in front and lower in back.

Bateau or Boat NeckRuns wide from shoulder to shoulder across the collarbones.

CowlLoosely draped folds at the neckline.

Crew NeckA close, round neckline, associated with t-shirts and plain sweaters.

TurtleneckA tube-shaped knit neck that folds over on itself.

ScoopA U-shaped neckline.

SweetheartThis retro neckline is low at the front and shaped like the top of a stylized heart.

V-neckA V-shaped neckline.

STYLE TERMS

AsymmetricalA design that uses asymmetry, as patterns, cut or styling that do not match each other.

Banded CollarA standing band-shaped collar, also known as mandarin or cadet.

Bias-cutCut diagonally across the grain of the fabric.

CableA knitting stitch that reproduces the look of a line of twisted ropes. First seen in fisherman’s sweaters.

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STYLE GLOSSARY

Color BlockingA design that uses contrasting panels or blocks of contrasting colors.

Double-breastedIn jackets, overlapping front panels are secured with two columns of buttons.

Flap PocketA patch pocket that has an additional flap of fabric sewn above the pocket, to cover and close it.

Inverted PleatA box pleat that has the fullness turned inward.

Matched PlaidMatching plaids or patterns is done by carefully making sure that the flow of a pattern is not interrupted at seam lines or pockets. This is painstaking work, done while the garment is being cut.

Notch LapelWhen the collar is sewn to the lapel at an angle, creating a step effect.

Patch PocketA pocket made of a separate piece of cloth, sewn to the outside of a garment.

PeplumA short, attached overskirt on a jacket, dress of blouse.

PlacketThe opening on the front of a garment that gives access to buttons or zippers; traditionally, the strip of fabric that covers the fastenings.

PleatFolds of definite, even width made by doubling cloth, pressed or stitched in place.

Princess SeamsLong seams that follow the lines of a woman’s shape, giving shape to garments.

Raw Edge/SelvageRaw edges are not finished and designed to fray. Fabric selvage is woven in order not to fray, but is not finished in any other way.

ReversibleAble to be worn on both sides—a reversible garment is never inside-out!

Shawl CollarA rounded turned-down collar without any lapel notches that extends down the front of a garment.

ToggleAn ornamental rod-shaped button that fits through a loop or a large buttonhole.

VentA vertical slit at the hem of a garment to improve ease of movement and fit.

YokeA shaped pattern piece at the shoulder or hip, which provides fit and support for the looser parts of a garment.

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FABRIC GLOSSARY

FIBERS, TEXTILES & WEAVES

Alpaca WoolA natural hypoallergenic fiber harvested from the Alpaca; luxurious, silky, durable and naturally water-repellent.

AngoraThe downy coat of the Angora rabbit; silky texture, thin fibers, and fluffiness.

Boiled WoolKnitted wool fabric is treated with heat, moisture and agitation to create this comfortable, rich textured, felt-like fabric.

CashmereFur from the Kashmir goat, primarily raised in Mongolia; used in knits and wovens for a luxurious, lightweight, silky feel.

CorduroyA textile composed of twisted fibers that, when woven, lie parallel (similar to twill) to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord."

CottonCotton is a white, soft, breathable and downy crop, used to make fabric and yarn.

Crepe De Chine or CDCA light, soft, silk or synthetic fabric with minute irregularities of surface.

JacquardFabrics made on special looms or knitting machines that create intricate designs; these fabrics range from lightweight worsteds to heavier woolen blanket cloth.

DobbyDobby is a woven fabric produced on the dobby loom, characterized by small geometric patterns and extra texture in the cloth.

Double FaceA form of double cloth made of one warp and two sets of wefts, or (less often) two warps and one weft. These fabrics have two right sides or faces and no wrong side.

Fair IsleA traditional knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colours. It is named after Fair Isle, a tiny island in the north of Scotland, that forms part of the Shetland islands.

Faux Suede, Leather, FurSynthetic re-creations of pelts or skins.

HoundstoothA duotone textile pattern characterized by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes, often in black and white, although other colours are used. The classic houndstooth pattern is an example of a tessellation.

KnitMade from interlocking loops of thread. Knit fabric has varying degrees of stretch, from slight to extreme elasticity.

MerinoWool shorn from Merino sheep. The finest wool.

PolyesterSynthetic derived from petroleum.

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FABRIC GLOSSARY

LambswoolWool from the first shearing of a lamb.

Rib KnitFabric knit with a reverse of knit and purl stitches, creating stripes or ridges.

RayonA fabric made of extruded wood products.

SilkA fabric spun from the very fine fibers excreted by the silk moth.

SlubA lump or thick place in yarn or thread, used as a decorative inclusion in silks and sweater knits.

SpandexAn elastic polyurethane fiber added for stretch to many weaves.

Umatilla Wool100% Virgin Wool. Medium weight 10.1 oz virgin wool shirting material. Versatile outdoor and indoor wear. Plain weave. Takes its name from Oregon’s Umatilla County, home of the Pendleton, Oregon mill and where Pendleton has been buying wool from local sheep ranchers for generations. Machine washable.

UltraLuxe Merino100% Virgin Wool. The finest virgin wool yarns are spun and woven into UltraLuxe Merino. Wrinkle and odor-resistant thanks to the fiber, which wicks away moisture and releases it during hanger time. Wear this shirt many times between cleanings; it’s made for it. Weight 9.2 oz. Dry clean.

WorstedA fine smooth yarn spun from combed long-staple wool.

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May 2020

Pendleton wool shirt fabrics are woven in one of two company-owned USA mills, using 100% virgin wool. The Pendleton weaving legacy dates to 1863, when founder Thomas Kay arrived in Oregon. A British master weaver, Kay worked in mills and went on to establish his own in Salem, Oregon (now a museum). His daughter, Fanny Kay Bishop, guided her three sons in the purchase of an idled mill in Pendleton, Oregon, which reopened in 1909 with the full support of the community. The Washougal mill began operations in 1912, expanding the range of fabrics. Both mills are still weaving today under the leadership of

the Bishop family, descendants of Thomas Kay.

Pendleton, Oregon Mill, Since 1909

Washougal, Washington Mill, Since 1912