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D2 | Saturday/Sunday, May 9 - 10, 2020 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. STYLE & FASHION Why We’re Obsessed Daniella Kallmeyer’s namesake brand exudes a polished calm a la the Row but without the ungodly price tag. Her well-edited collections, suitable for lazy ladies and type-A strivers alike, com- prise pieces like pink pantsuits and light knits—all made in the U.S. “I like to say that you should look like you’re in a suit and feel like you’re in paja- mas,” said the designer (above). For Fans Of Katharine Hepburn’s brazen, menswear- inspired style; rewiring 1960s ceramic lamps; hopping upstate with a single satchel; calling olives and wine “dinner.” Origin Story Born in Johannesburg and raised near Washington, D.C., Ms. Kallmeyer credits her devastatingly chic, New York-based granny with introducing her to fashion. “She was so elegant…we would do little sewing projects,” she recalled. After graduating from the London College of Fashion, Ms. Kallmeyer worked for dark genius Alexander McQueen and a few indie New York brands before launching hers in 2012. Starter Piece The $575 double-breasted blazer, which Ms. Kallmeyer says is “easy and un-pre- cious,” and we firmly agree. Start with the black before nabbing the emerald. Street Vendor Last year, Ms. Kallmeyer opened a pop- up shop on New York’s Orchard Street, which she likes for its “magical” neigh- borhood charm. Inspired by the cement factory near Barcelona that Spanish ar- chitect Ricardo Bofill converted into his Escher-esque headquarters, it will even- tually reopen as a permanent location. Occasional Carpenter Ms. Kallmeyer worships midcentury furniture. Using found wood and ob- jects, she crafts her own pieces, like a beloved cherry-wood bench that sits in her store. Clients have tried convincing her to sell the bench to no avail (yet). Find it at kallmeyer.nyc A female designer who makes not-insanely priced, Kate Hepburn-ish suiting and luxe dresses? Yes, please. BY LAURA NEILSON INSIDER SECRET SAMI SARAMÄKI Facialists offer virtual consultations to help clients prune their skin-care products. Lessons abound. Beauty’s Next Big Thing Is...Less Kallmeyer’s Cool Confidence EFI CHALIKOPOULOU (PORTRAIT;): GETTY IMAGES (HEPBURN, BOFILL) Clockwise from top: Katharine Hepburn in 1952; Kallmeyer’s bestselling Belle Gown; Ricardo Bofill’s cement factory; a bench by Ms. Kallmeyer; a tuxedoed take on the brand’s boxy blazer own extractions at home,” she said. She also warns against “over-exfoliat- ing” with scrubs, toners and serums that contain AHAs and BHAs, which disrupt the skin’s barrier, allowing aggressors to penetrate and irritate. Combining ingredients that don’t play well together triggers further ir- ritation. This is a very important consideration, said New York facialist Sofie Pavitt, when thinning out your product pile, a process she has dubbed a “skin diet.” As she explained, “the issues usu- ally lie with too many active ingredients throughout peo- ple’s routines.” So, what does our skin ac- tually need? Far less than we might think, it seems. Just as our medicine cabi- nets look better if we don’t overwhelm them with prod- ucts, so does our skin. Ex- perts agree that many skin types will thrive on a combi- nation of the following: a treatment product to spur cellular turnover and exfoli- ate (like one rich in Vitamin A or retinol, AHA or BHA), an antioxidant like vitamin C, a solid moisturizer, a sim- ple cleanser, and a sunscreen of at least SPF 30. While that formula works for many, it doesn’t work for all. “Everyone wants to try ‘cult’ products like P50 [Bi- ologique Recherche’s best- selling acid-based toner] and [topical] vitamin C, but sometimes they aren’t the right ingredients for them,” Ms. Pavitt emphasized. If the formula fails you, you can go with an even simpler rou- tine. “I think a foundation of cleansing the skin well, moisturizing at least once a day, and exfoliating two to three times a week is a re- ally great start to getting a consistent and non-over- whelming routine in place,” she added. And pay close at- tention to what works for your skin. “Be intuitive about it… your skin knows what it likes and doesn’t like,” said the Brooklyn- based aesthetician Carrie Lindsey. I tried to listen to my skin and my virtual expert’s ad- vice. What I didn’t need were five serums, four cleansers, plus a motley assortment of creams, oils and toners. While I don’t buy Marie Kondo’s notion that things must spark joy to earn their keep, stream- lining my routine down to the essen- tials feels good. “YOU DON’T NEED that serum.” Five words that I was, frankly, delighted to hear during a virtual skin consul- tation with Manhattan facialist Geor- gia Louise. I say “delighted” because an opposing principle has often fueled the beauty industry (and, ad- mittedly, my own skin- care routine): the belief that women need a sur- plus of products, a more- is-more approach, to achieve “perfect” skin. But it’s time to call it. Over are the days of the stuffed skin-care #shelfie—social-media photos of bathroom cabi- nets crammed with prod- ucts—that websites like Into the Gloss and the File have popularized. Follow- ing the current crisis, I predict we’ll re-evaluate our collective consump- tion and commit to using less, certainly in our beauty routines. Facialists, many of whom are now doling out wisdom in pri- vate video consultations, will help fuel this Marie Kondo-ing of our skin-care stashes. “A lot of people have been reaching out asking for help prioritizing their products,” said Berkeley, Calif., facialist Kristina Holey, who has performed virtual consultations for three years now. “Before Covid I was doing one a day, and now I’m doing four,” added Ms. Holey, who offers a sliding scale for those who have lost their primary source of in- come. To help people pare down their products, she first analyzes the state of their skin. “I’m getting a lot of new inquiries from people who are just get- ting over Covid and expe- riencing systemic rashes, eczema, and acne...and also an influx of clients with [the rash around the mouth] perioral dermati- tis,” said the facialist, who chalks much of it up to the drastic increase in stress. Rhea Souhleris Grous, owner of La Suite Skincare and head aesthetician at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York City, says the most common mistake she’s been seeing clients make is responding to these sudden skin flare-ups too ag- gressively. “They’re trying to do their BY FIORELLA VALDESOLO U Beauty Resurfacing Compound, from $148, saks.com Biologique Recherche Cleansing Milk, from $34, daphne.studio Environ Antioxidant Defence Crème, $108, 650-409- 1200 Few and Far Between A trio of products ideal for a less-is- more skin-care approach. You’re two feet away from the perfect fit. We have your shoe size... in a sock. kane11.com Get 25% off your first order use code WS25 Free shipping – Made in the USA P2JW130000-4-D00200-1--------XA

2020 05 09 cmyk NA 04 · 2020-05-12 · STYLE & FASHION WhyWe’reObsessed Daniella Kallmeyer’s namesake brand exudes a polished calm a la the Row but without the ungodly price

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Page 1: 2020 05 09 cmyk NA 04 · 2020-05-12 · STYLE & FASHION WhyWe’reObsessed Daniella Kallmeyer’s namesake brand exudes a polished calm a la the Row but without the ungodly price

D2 | Saturday/Sunday, May 9 - 10, 2020 * * * * THEWALL STREET JOURNAL.

STYLE & FASHION

Why We’re ObsessedDaniella Kallmeyer’s namesake brandexudes a polished calm a la the Rowbut without the ungodly price tag. Herwell-edited collections, suitable for lazyladies and type-A strivers alike, com-prise pieces like pink pantsuits andlight knits—all made in the U.S. “I liketo say that you should look like you’rein a suit and feel like you’re in paja-mas,” said the designer (above).

For Fans OfKatharine Hepburn’s brazen, menswear-inspired style; rewiring 1960s ceramiclamps; hopping upstate with a singlesatchel; calling olives and wine “dinner.”

Origin StoryBorn in Johannesburg and raised nearWashington, D.C., Ms. Kallmeyer creditsher devastatingly chic, New York-basedgranny with introducing her to fashion.“She was so elegant…we would do littlesewing projects,” she recalled. Aftergraduating from the London College ofFashion, Ms. Kallmeyer worked for darkgenius Alexander McQueen and a fewindie New York brands before launchinghers in 2012.

Starter PieceThe $575 double-breasted blazer, whichMs. Kallmeyer says is “easy and un-pre-cious,” and we firmly agree. Start withthe black before nabbing the emerald.

Street VendorLast year, Ms. Kallmeyer opened a pop-up shop on New York’s Orchard Street,which she likes for its “magical” neigh-borhood charm. Inspired by the cementfactory near Barcelona that Spanish ar-chitect Ricardo Bofill converted into hisEscher-esque headquarters, it will even-tually reopen as a permanent location.

Occasional CarpenterMs. Kallmeyer worships midcenturyfurniture. Using found wood and ob-jects, she crafts her own pieces, like abeloved cherry-wood bench that sits inher store. Clients have tried convincingher to sell the bench to no avail (yet).

Find it at kallmeyer.nyc

A female designer whomakes not-insanely priced,Kate Hepburn-ish suiting andluxe dresses? Yes, please.

BY LAURA NEILSON

INSIDER SECRET

SAMIS

ARA

MÄKI

Facialists offer virtual consultations to help clientsprune their skin­care products. Lessons abound.

Beauty’s Next Big Thing Is...Less

Kallmeyer’sCool Confidence

EFIC

HALIKO

POULO

U(PORT

RAIT;):G

ETTY

IMAGES

(HEP

BURN

,BOFILL)

Clockwise from top: Katharine Hepburnin 1952; Kallmeyer’s bestselling BelleGown; Ricardo Bofill’s cement factory;a bench by Ms. Kallmeyer; a tuxedoedtake on the brand’s boxy blazer

own extractions at home,” she said.She also warns against “over-exfoliat-ing” with scrubs, toners and serumsthat contain AHAs and BHAs, whichdisrupt the skin’s barrier, allowingaggressors to penetrate and irritate.Combining ingredients that don’tplay well together triggers further ir-ritation. This is a very important

consideration, said New Yorkfacialist Sofie Pavitt, whenthinning out your productpile, a process she hasdubbed a “skin diet.” As sheexplained, “the issues usu-ally lie with too many activeingredients throughout peo-ple’s routines.”

So, what does our skin ac-tually need? Far less thanwe might think, it seems.Just as our medicine cabi-nets look better if we don’toverwhelm them with prod-ucts, so does our skin. Ex-perts agree that many skintypes will thrive on a combi-nation of the following: atreatment product to spurcellular turnover and exfoli-ate (like one rich in VitaminA or retinol, AHA or BHA),an antioxidant like vitaminC, a solid moisturizer, a sim-ple cleanser, and a sunscreenof at least SPF 30.

While that formula worksfor many, it doesn’t work forall. “Everyone wants to try‘cult’ products like P50 [Bi-ologique Recherche’s best-selling acid-based toner] and[topical] vitamin C, butsometimes they aren’t theright ingredients for them,”Ms. Pavitt emphasized. If theformula fails you, you can gowith an even simpler rou-tine. “I think a foundation ofcleansing the skin well,moisturizing at least once aday, and exfoliating two tothree times a week is a re-ally great start to getting aconsistent and non-over-whelming routine in place,”she added. And pay close at-tention to what works foryour skin. “Be intuitiveabout it… your skin knowswhat it likes and doesn’tlike,” said the Brooklyn-based aesthetician CarrieLindsey.

I tried to listen to my skinand my virtual expert’s ad-vice. What I didn’t need

were five serums, four cleansers, plusa motley assortment of creams, oilsand toners. While I don’t buy MarieKondo’s notion that things mustspark joy to earn their keep, stream-lining my routine down to the essen-tials feels good.

“YOU DON’T NEED that serum.” Fivewords that I was, frankly, delightedto hear during a virtual skin consul-tation with Manhattan facialist Geor-gia Louise. I say “delighted” becausean opposing principle has oftenfueled the beauty industry (and, ad-mittedly, my own skin-care routine): the beliefthat women need a sur-plus of products, a more-is-more approach, toachieve “perfect” skin.

But it’s time to call it.Over are the days of thestuffed skin-care#shelfie—social-mediaphotos of bathroom cabi-nets crammed with prod-ucts—that websites likeInto the Gloss and the Filehave popularized. Follow-ing the current crisis, Ipredict we’ll re-evaluateour collective consump-tion and commit to usingless, certainly in ourbeauty routines. Facialists,many of whom are nowdoling out wisdom in pri-vate video consultations,will help fuel this MarieKondo-ing of our skin-carestashes.

“A lot of people havebeen reaching out askingfor help prioritizing theirproducts,” said Berkeley,Calif., facialist KristinaHoley, who has performedvirtual consultations forthree years now. “BeforeCovid I was doing one aday, and now I’m doingfour,” added Ms. Holey,who offers a sliding scalefor those who have losttheir primary source of in-come. To help people paredown their products, shefirst analyzes the state oftheir skin. “I’m getting alot of new inquiries frompeople who are just get-ting over Covid and expe-riencing systemic rashes,eczema, and acne...andalso an influx of clientswith [the rash around themouth] perioral dermati-tis,” said the facialist, whochalks much of it up tothe drastic increase instress.

Rhea Souhleris Grous,owner of La Suite Skincare and headaesthetician at Union Square LaserDermatology in New York City, saysthe most common mistake she’s beenseeing clients make is responding tothese sudden skin flare-ups too ag-gressively. “They’re trying to do their

BY FIORELLA VALDESOLO

U BeautyResurfacingCompound,from $148,saks.com

BiologiqueRecherche

Cleansing Milk,from $34,

daphne.studio

EnvironAntioxidantDefence

Crème, $108,650-409-1200

Few and FarBetweenA trio of

products idealfor a less-is-more skin-careapproach.

You’re two feet awayfrom the perfect fit.

We have your shoe size...in a sock.

kane11.com

Get 25% off your first order

use code WS25

Free shipping – Made in the USA

P2JW130000-4-D00200-1--------XA