2017 REDSHIFT OWNER & SERVICE MANUAL - … · While you’re getting used to it, ... CHAPTER 5 – COOLING SYSTEM Coolant – Drain/Refill 74 ... It’s a smart

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2017 REDSHIFT OWNER & SERVICEMANUAL

2

Congratulations on your purchase of an Alta Motors Redshift!

The Redshift is engineered to compete, and performs like a 250cc bike.

While you’re getting used to it, be cautious and pay attention to available

traction in both acceleration and braking. The smooth throttle delivery and

lack of combustion-derived noise means the Redshift can be deceptively

fast: you don’t want any unpleasant surprises.

PLEASE READ THIS MANUAL CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY BEFORE OPERATING THIS MACHINE.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE THIS MACHINE UNTIL YOU HAVE ATTAINED A SATISFACTORY

KNOWLEDGE OF ITS CONTROLS AND OPERATING FEATURES AND UNTIL YOU HAVE BEEN

TRAINED IN SAFE AND PROPER RIDING TECHNIQUES. REGULAR INSPECTIONS AND CAREFUL

MAINTENANCE, ALONG WITH GOOD RIDING SKILLS, WILL ENSURE THAT YOU SAFELY ENJOY THE

CAPABILITIES AND THE RELIABILITY OF THIS MACHINE.

Always wear a helmet. Before you go “Throttle Live,” make sure your helmet is on.

The Redshift is designed for one person only.

Unlike a traditional gas-powered motorcycle, the Redshift doesn’t require much maintenance.

However, the source of its power produces extremely high voltage and amperage. DO NOT tamper

with the electrical system! There are no user-serviceable electrical powertrain components housed

in the bike. See your authorized Alta Motors dealer when the need for diagnosis or repairs arise.

If the battery pack in particular gets dented, cracked, punctured, or yielded in any way, take your

Redshift to your local dealer to have a complete inspection done.

Please do not attempt to operate your Redshift under the influence of any drugs, prescription or

recreational, including Alcohol.

Failure to follow WARNING instructions could result in severe injury or death to the machine

operator, a bystander, or a person inspecting or repairing the machine.

This manual will provide you with a good basic understanding of features, operation, and basic

maintenance and inspection items of this machine. Please read this manual carefully and

completely before operating your new machine.

3

CHAPTER 1 – GENERAL INFORMATION

Getting Started 6

Regular Inspection and Adjustments 14

CHAPTER 2 – BODYWORK

Fender (front) – Removal & Installation 32

Fender (rear) – Removal & Installation 35

Mud Flap – Removal & Installation 35

Number Plate (front) – Removal & Installation 33

Number Plate (rear) – Removal & Installation 34

Rock Guard – Removal & Installation 34

Seat – Removal & Installation 30

Shrouds – Removal & Installation 31

Subframe – Removal & Installation 34

CHAPTER 2 – BRAKES

Brake Caliper (Front, MX), Removal & Installation 45

Brake Caliper (Front, SM), Removal & Installation 46

Brake Caliper (Rear, MX & SM), Removal & Installation

47

Brake Caliper, Overhaul 48

Brake Disc, Removal & Installation 59

Brake Hydraulic System, Bleeding 56

Brake Lever, Removal & Installation 58

Brake Master Cylinder (Front), Removal & Installation 51

Brake Master Cylinder (Rear), Removal & Installation 53

Brake Master Cylinder, Overhaul 54

Brake Pad Replacement (Front, MX) 38

Brake Pad Replacement (Front, SM) 40

Brake Pad Replacement (Rear, MX and SM) 42

Brake Pedal, Removal & Installation 59

TABLE OF CONTENTS

4

CHAPTER 4 – SUSPENSION / STEERING / WHEELS / FINAL DRIVE

Drive Chain – Maintenance 17

Drive Chain – Removal & Installation 17

Forks – Removal & Installation 64

Front wheel – Removal & Installation 22

Grips – Replace 63

Handlebar and Mounts – Removal & Installation 62

Rear Wheel – Removal & Installation 25

Shock Absorber – Removal & Installation 70

Shock Linkage – Remove/bearing Service/install 70

Primary Drive Sprocket – Removal & Installation 91

Steering Head Bearings – Service/Replace 68

Suspension – Adjustments 18

Swingarm – Remove/ Bearing Service/Install 72

Triple Clamps/Steering Stem – Removal & Installation 66

Wheel seals and bearings – Replace 60

CHAPTER 5 – COOLING SYSTEM

Coolant – Drain/Refill 74

Coolant Pump – Removal & Installation 76

Coolant Hose(s) – Replace 77

CHAPTER 6 – POWERTRAIN / BATTERY / CONTROL SYSTEM /

MOTOR / PRIMARY DRIVE

Accessory Control Module (ACM) – Removal & Installation 83

Battery – Disconnection/Reconnection 79

Battery – Removal & Installation 80

Charge Inlet (Delta Wing) – Removal & Installation 82

DC Charge Port (DCCP) – Removal & Installation 90

Drive and Driven Gears – Removal & Installation 96

Gearbox Cover – Removal & Installation 94

HV Connector – Removal & Installation 79

Motor Controller - Removal & Installation 84

Motor and Output Shaft – Removal & Installation 98

Output Shaft Bearings - Replace 102

5

Output Shaft Seal – Replace 92

Position Sensor – Removal & Installation 93

Primary Drive Sprocket – Removal & Installation 91

Timing Cover – Removal & Installation 93

CHAPTER 7 – FRAME

Boot Guards – Removal & Installation 106

Bulkhead – General Information/Servicing 109

Footpegs – Removal & Installation 107

Sidestand – Removal & Installation 108

Skidframe – Removal & Installation 104

CHAPTER 8 – LOW VOLTAGE ELECTRICAL

Brake Light Switches – Removal & Installation 116

Display – Removal & Installation 110

Headlight Adjustment 119

Headlight Housing - Removal & Bulb Replacement 119

Horn – Removal & Installation 118

Ignition Switch – Removal & Installation 114

License Plate Light 121

Map Switch – Removal & Installation 113

Marker Light 120

Sidestand Switch – Removal & Installation 118

Start/Stop/Run Switch – Removal & Installation 112

Taillight 120

Throttle Switch/Tube – Removal & Installation 115

Turn Signal/Horn/HI-LO Beam Switch – Removal & Installation

114

Turn Signals/Running Lights 121

6 RETURN TO TABLE OF CONTENTSRETURN TO TABLE OF CONTENTSRETURN TO TABLE OF CONTENTSRETURN TO TABLE OF CONTENTSRETURN TO TABLE OF CONTENTS RETURN TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

GETTING STARTED

STOP BUTTON

FRONT BRAKE

THROTTLE

RUN BUTTON

START BUTTON

DISPLAY PANEL

CHARGE PORT

PERFORMANCE MAP SELECTOR

ON / OFF KEY

CHAPTER 1


OPERATING CONTROLS

The Redshift is a very intuitive bike to ride, but before you twist the throttle, take some time

to become familiar with the controls. The first thing you’ll notice is the lack of a clutch lever

on the left side of the handlebar, and the missing shift lever below the left footpeg. This is

one of the main features that sets this bike apart from its gasoline-powered counterparts.

The single-speed clutchless drive of the 14,000 rpm AC Motor allows you to concentrate

on riding technique.

1. Key Switch – located on the left shroud is a standard

Off/On switch. Rotate the key clockwise to activate the

RUN circuit. note that with the key in the on position,

it is flush with the bodywork. (Fig. 1)

2. RUN-STOP switch – located on the right side of the

handlebar, this is what feeds or cuts power to the

motor and charger. (Fig. 2)

3. START button – located just below the RUN-STOP

switch, this is what brings the bike to life after the key

switch is turned On and the RUN-STOP switch has

been set to RUN. You can disable the motor/throttle

again by cycling the RUN-STOP switch– this will bring

the bike back to an idle state. Once stopped please

get into the habit of switching the run-stop switch off

so that you don’t accidentally actuate the throttle

while the motor is energized.

Fig. 1 Fig. 2

GETTING STARTED


4. Throttle – same place as on any bike, but to say it

works in the same manner would be misleading.

Yes, you twist it to go, but you’ll have 100% of the

bike’s torque available in your right hand, from the

start. Be careful!

5. Performance Map switch – located on the left side

of the handlebar, this switch changes the bike’s

“personality” to fit your current riding conditions.

Depressing the Up button changes the map number to

the next numerically higher map. Depressing the

Down button does just the opposite. (Fig. 3)

6. Front brake lever – located on the right end of the

handlebar. Adjust the length of pull by turning the

knob just to the inside of the lever pivot. (Fig. 4)

7. Rear brake pedal – located down at the right

footpeg. Lever position can be adjusted by loosening

the bolt and turning the adjustment cam (A). If this is

done, though, pedal freeplay will have to be adjusted

by altering the length of the rear brake master

cylinder pushrod (B). There should be 3-5mm of

freeplay at the tip of the lever before the lever

actuates the plunger. (Fig. 5)Fig. 5

Fig. 4

Fig. 3

CHAPTER 1


UNDERSTANDING THE PERFORMANCE MAPS

The Redshift is equipped from the factory with 4 performance maps. These performance

maps are not “gears,” but rather tools to adapt the characteristics of the Redshift

to different riding styles and terrain conditions. The maps work by changing the

parameters of power delivery relative to the throttle position and regenerative braking

on deceleration. You may find that you are faster in slippery conditions when using Map

1. When traction is good, Map 4 may be your fastest option. Try them all out in different

conditions to see what suits you and your riding environment.

The regenerative braking (regen) acts as resistance when the throttle is off. The more

regen, the more power is being produced, the more it will slow you down without the

use of the conventional disc brakes.

MAP 4

OVERCLOCKED

MILD

MILD

HIGH

HIGH

HIGH

MAP 3

PERFORMANCE

MILD

MILD

MEDIUM

MEDIUM

MED-HIGH

MAP 2

MX RACE

MEDIUM

MILD

HIGH

MEDIUM

MEDIUM

MAP 1

TRAIL

HIGH

MEDIUM

MILD

MILD

MILD

TRACTION

REGEN

RESPONSE

TOP

BOTTOM

GETTING STARTED

MAP 4

OVERCLOCKED

MILD

HIGH

HIGH

HIGH

HIGH

MAP 3

COMMUTE-2

MEDIUM

MEDIUM

MEDIUM

MEDIUM

MEDIUM

MAP 2

COMMUTE-1

MEDIUM

MILD

MEDIUM

MEDIUM

MEDIUM

MAP 1

RAIN

HIGH

MILD

MILD

MILD

MILD

TRACTION

REGEN

RESPONSE

TOP

BOTTOM


STARTING UP

THROTTLE LIVE

OPERATING YOUR REDSHIFT

1. Turn the key clockwise to the ON position. The

display will light up, giving you information about the

state of charge, map selection, and total mileage. You

may also hear the coolant pump power up and begin

to circulate coolant through the frame.

2. Set the red RUN-STOP switch to RUN.

3. With the throttle fully closed, press the START

button. The throttle is now live!

1. The Redshift is now LIVE, and the perimeter of the

display panel will pulse green to indicate live throttle.

This pulsing will stop once you are moving, and will

resume when you come to a stop.

2. The Redshift has no clutch and makes almost no

noise when stationary. Once you twist the throttle,

the bike will respond immediately. It ’s a smart

practice to always cycle the RUN-STOP switch to

deactivate the throttle after a ride, for an emergency

stop, or any time when you’re stopping for more than

a traffic light.

NEVER lEaVE thE bikE sittiNg with a liVE thRottlE!!!

If the HV battery is below freezing temperature, it

will refuse to charge, and drive power will be

reduced. Capacity (driving range) will also be

reduced at low temperature.

Over-discharge may result in permanent damage to the

HV battery, and replacement may be necessary. The HV

battery has a gradual self-discharge rate, and will lose

charge if left unused for long periods of time. Do not

leave the HV battery below 10% charge for more than

one week, or below 25% for more than one month.

When storing the HV battery, charge it to 40-60% (or

higher) and check it monthly, recharging if needed.

The HV battery will gradually lose capacity with time

and use, just like any rechargeable battery. The rate of

capacity loss depends on how the pack is used, but

lower sustained temperatures and lower power draw

(less aggressive riding, especially at highway speeds)

will prolong battery life.

There is no specific point at which the HV battery

needs to be replaced. The capacity (range) and

available power will simply continue to decrease.

Contact your Alta dealer for proper disposal and

replacement of your HV battery.

The regenerative braking system applies a braking

torque at the rear wheel to add charge back into the

HV battery; the amount of “regen” applied varies with

throttle position and throttle map. This system is not

connected to the vehicle’s hydraulic braking system or

brake levers in any way, and should not be depended

on to stop the vehicle in an emergency. When the HV

battery is full, regen will be automatically reduced to

prevent overcharge.

CHAPTER 1


HOW TO CHARGE YOUR REDSHIFT

1. Pull up the cover on the charge port located on

the motorcycle and plug in the charging connector.

2. Set the vehicle charger upright (on its rubber feet

with the fan perpendicular with the ground. ) and

plug the charger’s cord into an electrical outlet.

Keep the charger away from flammable materials,

and make sure it has adequate airflow for cooling.

3. Make sure the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter

(GFCI) on the AC cord has been reset. If it has been

reset properly the green light on the GFCI will be lit.

4. Turn the key to the ON position, and set the red

RUN-STOP button to the RUN position. The LED on

the charger flashes green when it is on standby, and

will flash red when charging has begun.

5. Turn the key to OFF and let the bike’s battery

charge. Cause of the charger’s “smart”

capabilities there’s no need to worry about

overcharging the battery.

6. The display provides feedback about the state of

charge during the charging phase, and when the

LED turns green, the charging phase is complete.

7. Unplug the charger from the wall outlet; coil the

cords, and store the charger in a safe area.

A complete charge can take up to six hours at 110v. Ride times will vary depending

on terrain and how aggressively you use the throttle.

GETTING STARTED


HIGH VOLTAGE SAFETY

WARNING: YouR VEhiclE coNtaiNs a sEalEd Lithium-IoN High VoltagE (HV)

battERy systEm. IF thE HV battERy is haNdlEd impRopERly oR bEcomEs damagEd,

thERE is a Risk oF ElEctRic shock, FiRE, aNd sERious iNjuRy oR dEath.

HIGH VOLTAGE (HV) BATTERY

AND DRIVE SYSTEM

IF THE HV SYSTEM IS DAMAGED

The HV battery and drive system operates up to 400V

DC. The system can be “live” during and after the

vehicle is powered up, and for up several minutes

after the vehicle is shut off.

Never disassemble, remove or replace high-voltage

components - all HV system components can only be

serviced by an Alta dealer. High-voltage cables are

colored orange, and all related components have

warning labels on them. Obey all warning labels on

the vehicle.

After an accident, inspect for exposed wiring,

damaged connectors or damaged housings of any

high-voltage components. Do not attempt to touch

wiring or exposed parts. If any part of the HV system is

damaged, bring the vehicle to your Alta dealer

immediately. If damaged wiring or electrical

components are in danger of touching the chassis or

the extent of damage is unclear, do not touch the

vehicle, and call an emergency service like 911 to

handle it.

IF EmERgENcy sERVicEs aRE at thE scENE, makE

suRE thEy aRE awaRE that this is a High VoltagE

ElEctRic VEhiclE.

Damage to the HV battery system may result in an

electrolyte leak. Avoid contact with the electrolyte

and do not inhale the fumes; if contact occurs, flush

eyes or skin with water immediately. The electrolyte

is flammable: keep any flame or hot objects away

from a leak.

Extreme damage to the HV battery can cause a fire. If

a HV battery fire occurs, the most effective response is

to douse it heavily with fresh water or bury it in sand.

A fire extinguisher will only reduce the flame

temporarily; it will not remove the heat and therefore

will not stop the reaction taking place.

After a HV battery fire has subsided, it may still be

generating enough internal heat to re-ignite. Keep the

HV battery away from flammable materials and monitor

it for at least 2 hours after it has cooled completely.

CHAPTER 1


CHARGING SAFETY

To avoid risk of electrical shock, fire, and serious injury or death:

• Only use a charger

that is approved by

Alta Motors for use with

your vehicle model.

• Have any outlet used

for charging inspected

by a licensed

electrician. Inspection

should include

verifying proper

grounding, sufficient

current handling,

dedicated circuit, and

breaker function.

• If you use any life-

sustaining medical

electrical devices,

check with the

manufacturer about

the effects that

charging may have on

that device.

• Charge outdoors or in

large ventilated areas.

Do not use a vehicle

cover during charging.

• Do not charge with

building wiring more

than 40 years old.

• Do not charge if

outlet appears

damaged or will not

hold plug firmly.

• If your AC cord is

equipped with a

GFCI, test it monthly

(“TEST” button).

• Do not charge with

other devices plugged

into the same circuit.

• Do not use unapproved

extension cords or plug

adapters to charge.

• Do not touch exposed

connector terminals.

• Do not move the vehicle

while charging.

• Do not touch the

vehicle or charger

when there is lightning.

A lightning strike may

feed back into the

charging system.

• Do not disassemble or

modify the charger or

vehicle connector.

Plug should be

modified only by a

licensed electrician.

• Stop charging

immediately if charge

plug or outlet becomes

hot to the touch.

• Do not charge near fire,

heat, flammable

materials, or water.

• Make sure there is no

water or debris in the

charge port, connector

or electrical plug, and

that they are not

damaged, rusted or

corroded. Make sure

the charge port cap is

closed once charging is

finished to prevent

water and foreign

debris from entering.

• Do not unplug

anything until

charging has been

disabled by setting

the run/stop switch to

the “stop” position.

GETTING STARTED


To obtain the best performance from your Redshift, and for your own safety, it’s important

to take a few moments to make sure everything is in working order before you ride:

REGULAR INSPECTION & ADJUSTMENTS

1. Your tires are the most important link in the chain

between you and the earth. Correct pressure will ensure

you get the best handling from your Redshift, and

checking the condition of the tires often will reduce the

chance of failure while out on the track or trail.

2. Use a pressure gauge to check the air pressure in the

tires. For motocross riding, 14 psi is a good starting

point. For soft conditions, you can get better traction

buy dropping the pressure as low as 12 psi. For off-road

riding, consider increasing the pressure to 18 or 20 psi;

the bike will be “looser,” but the risk of pinch flats will

be greatly reduced. For the Redshift SM, 24 psi is a

good starting point.

3. Check the tires carefully for cuts in the sidewalls

and in between the knobbies.

4. Make sure the valve stem has not shifted. This

failure mode is more common when running lower

pressures. If this happens, you will ll have to deflate

the tire, loosen the rim lock, unseat the tire’s bead

from the rim and shift the tire/tube until the valve

stem is straight. Then re-inflate the tire to the proper

pressure, and tighten the rim lock nut securely.

5. Always verify that there is plenty of tread left on

your tires before heading out for a ride.

TIRES

Visually inspect the HV battery, motor controller and

motor monthly for signs of damaged wiring, cracked/

broken housings or broken seals. Any damage should

be reported to your Alta dealer immediately.

HV DRIVE SYSTEM

CHAPTER 1


BRAKES

1. Make sure the braking system is in perfect working

order to stay ahead of the pack, protect your

investment, and avoid injury.

2. Check the brake fluid level in the front and rear

master cylinder reservoirs. Each reservoir has a sight

glass that enables you to check the fluid level. An

overfilled or underfilled brake reservoir is dangerous.

(Fig.1 & 2)

3. If fluid is required, first check the master cylinder,

fluid hose and caliper for leakage. If any leaks are found,

fix them immediately. The fluid level will drop as the

brake pads wear.This is normal; just don’t let the fluid

level in the reservoir drop below the MIN mark.

4. If it is necessary to add fluid, remove the reservoir

cap and add DOT 4 brake fluid until it is at the MAX

mark or top of the sight glass. Before reinstalling the

cap and diaphragm, check the condition of the

diaphragm. It is normal for the diaphragm in the front

master cylinder reservoir to expand as the pads wear

and the fluid level drops. Push the center of the

diaphragm back into place to retract it before

installing it and the cap.

5. Check the brake pads for wear. It’s critical that the

pads be replaced before the pad friction material

wears down below the minimum allowable thickness

of 1.5 mm. As the pads thickness decreases the wear

rate increases, that last couple of mm of pad material

will disappear much quicker than the first few mm.

(Fig.3 & 4)

6. Operate the front brake lever and rear brake pedal

– they should both feel firm, not spongy. If not, there

is either air in the hydraulic system (which means the

affected system must be bled) or the master cylinder

seal for that system has failed (or is about to fail).

Fig. 4Fig. 3

Fig. 1 Fig. 2



1. The Redshift relies on coolant to keep motor and

controller temperatures in check and gear oil to

lubricate the primary drive gears.

2. It isn’t necessary to check these levels daily, but if a

leak IS discovered or the level is low chronically, the

problem must be diagnosed. It is normal for a small

amount of coolant to overflow from the system in hot

conditions under heavy load. The overflow tube

empties out on the left hand side, near the top of the

battery. At first witness, this residual coolant can be

alarming, but it is normal. The coolant level doesn’t

have to be topped off immediately once this is seen.

Once the bike cools, add coolant as necessary. The

bike’s systems are engineered to limit power if the

bike overheats, so until a drop in power or response is

COOLANT AND GEAR OIL

noticed, it is fine to keep riding. If a drop in power or

response occurs, it is safe to get back to your home or

transportation in this mode.

3. Inspect gear oil level through the sight glass on the

right side of the bike; the oil level should be visible in

the sight glass. If it is not visible, add oil until it is

showing in the site glass. (Fig.5)

4. In order to check the coolant level, the bolt must be

removed and the cover in front of the charge port

pulled off, then the fill plug must be unscrewed. The

coolant level should be visible in the filler hole. It is

very easy to over-torque this plug. If over-torqued the

o-ring will get displaced or torn. The torque setting is

1.5 nm. (Fig.7)

Fig. 7

Fig. 5

Fig. 8

Fig. 6

CHAPTER 1


DRIVE CHAIN

CLEANING/LUBRICATING CHECKING/ADJUSTING

1. Cleaning is accomplished by spraying the chain

with a good, designated chain cleaner (safe for O-ring

chains) and brushing with a stiff brush to remove as

much grime as possible. Follow up by wiping it down

until the chain is as clean as you can get it.

cautioN: stEam clEaNiNg oR pREssuRE-washERs caN

FoRcE watER bEtwEEN thE liNks oF thE NoN o-RiNg

chaiN aNd dEstRoy thE o-RiNgs oF aN o-RiNg chaiN.

plEasE makE suRE to usE a watER dispERsaNt aNd

thEN a dEdicatEd oFF-Road chaiN lubE aFtER aNy high

pREssuRE washiNg.

2. Place the bike on a pit stand with the rear wheel off the

ground. Lubricate the chain with a high-quality, lubricant.

When spraying the chain, get the lubricant between the

chain plates and alongside of the rollers. Lubricate a

stretch of chain, then turn the rear wheel to bring more

chain into view. Repeat until the entire length of chain is

lubricated. (Fig.6)

tip: positioN a piEcE oF caRdboaRd bEtwEEN thE

chaiN aNd whEEl to pREVENt gEttiNg chaiN lubE oN

thE tiRE/Rim.

1. Place the bike on a pit stand with the rear wheel off

the ground. Measure the difference between the

chain at rest and pushed up until all slack is removed,

at its mid-point. There should be 30 to 35 mm of slack.

If adjustment is required, proceed to the next step.

(Fig.8)

2. Loosen the rear axle nut. (Fig.9)

3. On each side of the bike, loosen the axle adjuster

locknut (A) and turn the adjuster bolt (B) in or out, as

necessary, to obtain the correct chain slack. Turning

the adjuster bolt counterclockwise will reduce slack;

turning clockwise will increase slack. When the

desired slack is reached, make sure the graduations

on each axle block (C) are equally aligned with the

machined reliefs on the swingarm. (Fig.10)

4. Tighten the adjuster locknut securely. Push the

wheel towards the front of the bike making sure the

axle blocks are both contacting the heads of the

adjuster bolts. Then torque the rear axle nut to 80 Nm.

Fig.10Fig. 9



SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS

FRONT FORKS

1. Compression and rebound damping of your WP

4CS forks are adjustable – no tools required.

Compression damping is adjusted with the knob at

the top of the left fork leg. Rebound damping is

adjusted with the knob at the top of the right fork leg.

(Fig.11)

2. The standard setting for compression damping is

13 clicks open (after turning the knob fully clockwise).

To increase the compression damping, turn the knob

clockwise; to lighten up the compression damping,

turn the knob counterclockwise. Increasing

compression damping will stiffen the fork and is

beneficial to fend off harder hits. 15 clicks out will

give a more “plush” ride, 11 clicks open will give a

more firm ride.

3. For rebound damping, the standard setting is 13

clicks open. Increasing rebound damping (turning the

knob clockwise) will slow the fork down after a hard

hit and reduce springback. Backing off the rebound

adjuster (turning the knob counterclockwise) will

allow the fork to assume its static position more

quickly, but this isn’t always desirable. The standard

setting is also 13 clicks open. For more aggressive

riding, you might want to try 11 clicks open. For trail

riding, you might prefer 15 clicks open.

4. Experimenting with these settings and tuning

them to your weight and riding style will give you the

best performance for your current riding conditions.

5. Spring preload is also adjustable, but it requires

partial disassembly of the forks. This is a job that

should be entrusted to your authorized Alta dealership

or other suspension specialist.

6. After a moto or a trail ride, or whenever transporting

your bike to a different elevation, bleed the air from

the forks by loosening the screw in each fork cap for

about ten seconds before tightening the screw

securely. (Fig.12)

Fig. 11

CHAPTER 1


REAR SHOCK ABSORBER

STATIC SAG (SPRING PRELOAD)

1. High-speed and low-speed compression damping

and rebound damping are adjustable. Sag (spring

preload) is also adjustable and only requires a C-spanner.

2. Static sag is the primary adjustment to tune your

bike’s handling. The rear shock supports most of your

weight, so getting the sag set right will make the

difference between a good lap time or a struggle around

the track.

3. To measure static sag: support the bike on a pit stand

or lift. Measure the distance between the cast “button”

at the end of the swingarm and the pointed part of the

number plate; record this measurement. (Fig.13)

NotE: it’s a good idEa to makE a maRk oN thE NumbER

platE to ENsuRE thE samE mEasuRiNg poiNt is usEd

Each timE.

4. Take the bike off the stand or lift, compress the rear

suspension a few times, then have an assistant support

the bike upright. Measure the same distance and record

it. The difference between the two is your static sag. 35

mm is a good starting point.

5. If adjustment is necessary, clean the threads on the

shock body, then loosen the hex screw (A) on the adjuster

ring and use a C-spanner to turn the adjuster ring.

Turning it clockwise increases preload and reduces sag;

turning it counterclockwise reduces preload and

increases sag. One turn of the adjuster ring will change

the setting approximately 1 mm.

6. Repeat Steps 3 and 4. If necessary, repeat Step 5 to

get the sag dialed-in. When done, tighten the adjuster

ring hex screw securely. (Fig.14)

Fig. 12

Fig. 13

Fig. 14



RACE SAG

REBOUND DAMPING

LOW-SPEED COMPRESSION DAMPING

HIGH-SPEED COMPRESSION DAMPING

7. This is the same measurement taken in Step 4, but

with the rider (fully dressed for action) seated on the

bike. The sag measurement should be 100-105 mm,

depending on ride style and preference. If it is lesser or

greater than that, the shock should be removed and the

spring should be replaced with one of a higher or lower

rate to better suit the rider – a job for your Alta dealer or

other suspension specialist.

10. This adjustment controls the “kicking” effect of

your bike’s rear end. The standard setting is 15 clicks

out from fully seated. Turning it clockwise will reduce

rebound speed, turning counterclockwise will allow the

shock to rebound more quickly. (Fig.16)

8. This adjustment controls damping at lower

velocities, like when negotiating jump faces and

G-outs. It’s adjusted by turning the screw at the top of

the shock (A). The standard setting is 15 clicks out

(from seated). To increase low-speed compression

damping turn the screw clockwise. 13 clicks out is a

good starting point for track riding; 17 clicks out is

typical for for trail riding.

9. This adjustment controls damping at higher velocities

like hard hits. It is adjusted by turning the nut into

which the low-speed adjuster screw threads (B). The

standard setting is 2 turns out from closed. 2.5 turns

out will soften up the high-speed compression

damping, 1.5 turns out will stiffen it up. (Fig.15)

kEEp iN miNd that “low-spEEd” aNd “high-spEEd”

aRE Not REFERENcEs to bikE spEEd, but RathER thE

spEEd oF thE shock absoRbER shaFt duRiNg

opERatioN. aN ExamplE oF a high-spEEd EVENt is a

shaRp-EdgEd Rock oR bump that FoRcEs thE

suspENsioN to aRticulatE quickly.

Fig. 15 Fig. 16

CHAPTER 1


1. Proper tightness of the spokes can only be achieved

with the use of a spoke torque wrench. First, check to

see that no spokes are loose. This can be done by feel,

or another good way to ensure that all of the spokes

are equally tensioned is by tapping them with a spoke

wrench and listening to the tone they make. They

should all sound the same. A loose spoke will emit a

dull sound, while a properly tensioned spoke will

make a “bright” sound.

2. If you find a loose spoke tighten the spoke nipple

with a wrench until the sound it makes when you tap

it is similar to the others.

3. Over-tightening spokes can result in a distorted

wheel. It is a good idea to have the spokes tightened

and the wheel trued by a professional at your

earliest convenience.

SPOKES

WHEELS

4. Check the rims for dents and bulges. Usually when

a loose spoke (or spokes) is/are found, it is the result

of hard hit. If a distorted rim is found, it should be

replaced. This involves removing the spokes and

lacing them and the hub up to a new rim. You should

leave this task up to your Alta dealer or other qualified

motorcycle shop.

RIMS



1. Support the bike on a pit stand or lift so the wheel

being removed is off the ground. Push the body of the

caliper toward the disc to slightly depress the caliper

pistons into their bores. (Fig.17 & 18)

2. Loosen the pinch bolts on the bottom of the left

fork axle clamp (A), then unscrew the axle nut (B).

3. Loosen the pinch bolts at the bottom of the right

fork axle clamp.

4. Support the weight of the wheel; slide the axle out

from the right side, and remove the wheel.

FRONT WHEEL - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

cautioN: doN’t squEEzE thE FRoNt bRakE lEVER

whilE thE whEEl is REmoVEd – thE bRakE calipER

pistoNs could bE displacEd.

5. Remove the hub spacers and clean them, then

lubricate them with lithium-based grease. (Fig.19)

6. Clean the axle, and lubricate it with lithium-based

grease.

7. Install the hub spacers into the hub; be careful not

to distort the seals.

8. Raise the wheel into position, and make sure the

brake disc slides between the brake pads.

Fig. 18 Fig. 19

Fig. 17

CHAPTER 1


9. Insert the axle into the right fork axle clamp. Insert

the axle through the hub spacers and into the left fork

axle clamp until it is seated. (Fig. 20)

10. Temporarily tighten the right-side axle clamp

pinch bolts to prevent the axle from turning, and

install the axle nut and tighten it to 45 Nm.

11. Loosen the right-side axle clamp pinch bolts, and

move the right fork leg inward and outward to find its

mid-position.

12. Take the bike off the pit stand or lift, then squeeze

the front brake lever and compress the forks a few

times to aid in aligning the fork.

13. Tighten the axle clamp pinch bolts a little at a

time in an alternating pattern to 15 Nm.

14. Loosen the axle nut, and retighten it to 45 Nm.

Fig. 20



Fig. 21

Fig. 23

Fig. 22

Fig. 24

CHAPTER 1


15. Unscrew the axle nut. Then remove the right-side

axle block. (Fig. 21)

16. Support the wheel, and pull the axle out from the

left side. (Fig. 22 & 23)

17. Move the wheel forward and disengage the chain

from the rear sprocket. Remove the wheel from the

swingarm.

18. Remove the hub spacers and clean them. Then

lubricate them with lithium-based grease.

19. Also clean the axle, and lubricate it with lithium-

based grease.

WaRNiNg: MakE suRE No gREasE gEts oN thE

axlE thREads.

20. Install the hub spacers into the hub. Be careful not

to distort the seals.

REAR WHEEL - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

21. Raise the wheel into position, and make sure the

brake disc slides between the brake pads.

22. Insert the axle partially into the swingarm, and

slide it through the hub spacers and into the right side

of the swingarm, but leave the left-side axle block

protruding out past the adjuster bolt. (Fig. 24)

23. Slide the wheel as far forward as possible. Loop the

chain over the sprocket.

24. Pull the wheel towards the rear, and fully insert

the axle. Turn the wheel to make sure the chain is

fully engaged.

25. Install the right-side axle block and axle nut. Push

the wheel forward until the axle blocks contact the

adjuster bolts, and tighten the axle nut to 80 Nm.



QUICK REFERENCE

CHAPTER 1

CHAIN

CHAIN TENSION

TIRE PRESSURE/CONDITION

LEVERS (MOVEMENT)

GEAR OIL

WHEEL SPOKES

COOLAN T LEVELS

HYDRAULIC FL UIDS

SERVICE THE FORK

FRONT PADS

REAR PADS

BRAKE LINES

BRAKE DISCS

WHEEL RIMS

WHEEL HUBS

SHOCK LINKAGE

HYDRAULIC FL UIDS

SWINGARM BEARINGS

STEERING HEAD BEARINGS

SHOCK ABSORBER

CHAIN GUIDE

SPROCKE T CONDITION

CHASSIS TORQUE CHECK

PRE-RIDE

CHECK 20 HOUR S2 HOUR S 10 HOUR SINTIAL BREAK-IN C YCLE

REPLAC E

Clean and lubricate every ride

Replace as needed

Replace as needed

Change Oil and Bushings as needed

Replace as needed

Replace as needed

Replace as needed

Replace as needed

Replace as neededRefer to Torque Check Points(Ch. 1)

PLEASE REFER TO THE QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE FOR TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Change when below minimum thickness

Check for runout every 10 hours

Check for bearing play every 10 hours

Rebuild every 40 hours

Disassemble and lubricate at 20 hours

Disassemble and lubricate every 20 hoursDisassemble and replace shock oil

Adjust for conditionsLubricate pivot points every 20 hours

Change every 40 hours

Change every 40 hours

Change AnnuallyChange Annually

SERVICE INTERVALS


FLUIDS/LUBRICANTS

Brake Fluid DOT 4

Gear Oil

Type SAE 75W-90 gear oil

Capacity 80 ml

Coolant

Type Prestone 50/50 Pre-diluted ethylene

glycol antifreeze/coolant or equivalent

Capacity 750 ml

Chain lube O-ring compatible

DIMENSIONS

Weight 251 lbs(MX), 283 lbs(SM)

Wheelbase 57.3 inches

Seat height 37 inches(MX), 35.5(SM)

POWERPLANT

Horsepower 40

Torque (rear wheel) 120 ft-lbs

Redline 12,500 rpm

Battery

Rating 5.8 KWH

TIRES (MX)

Tire size

Front 80/100-21

Rear 100/90-19

Pressure 14 psi

TIRES (SM)

Tire size

Front 120/70-17

Rear 150/60-17

Pressure 32/F & 36/R psi

QUICK REFERENCE


Fork:

Front axle nut 45 Nm

Rear axle nut 80 Nm

Front axle pinch bolts 15 Nm

Front Pads:

Front brake caliper bolts, MX (2x) 25 Nm, Loctite 243

Front brake caliper bolts, SM (2x) 32 Nm, Loctite 243

Front brake master cylinder bolts (2x) 4 Nm

Banjo bolts (4x) 23-26 Nm

Front brake lever, SM 5-7 Nm

Front brake lever, MX 5-7 Nm

Brake disk bolts 14 Nm, Loctite 262

Rear Pads:

Rear brake lever pivot bolt 19 Nm, Loctite 243

Rear brake lever adjuster cam bolt 10 Nm, Loctite 243

Rear brake master cylinder mounts (2x)

10 Nm, Loctite 243

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Shock Linkage:

Front dogbone bolt 80 Nm, Loctite 243

Tri-link bolts (D-head, 2x) 80 Nm, Loctite 243

Swingarm Bearings:

Swingarm pivot 85 Nm

Stearing Head Bearings:

Triple clamp bolts (8x) 10 Nm

Steering stem nut 25 Nm

Top triple clamp pinch bolt 10 Nm, Loctite 243

Bottom triple clamp steering stem bolts (2x)

20 Nm, Loctite 243

Shock Absorber:

Top shock bolt 60 Nm, Loctite 271

Bottom shock bolt 60 Nm, Loctite 271

Chain Guide:

Chain slider (3x) 3 Nm, Loctite 243

Chain guide (2x) 10 Nm, Loctite 243


Sprocket Condition:

Front Sprocket Cover bolts (3x) 10 Nm, Loctite 243

Counter shaft sprocket bolt 60 Nm, Loctite 243

Rear sprocket bolts 35 Nm, Loctite 243

Chassis Torque check:

Skid frame bolts (8x) 48 Nm

Seat bolt 4 Nm

Subframe mounting bolts (4x) 25 Nm, Loctite 243

Shroud bolts (6x) 4Nm

Coolant fill plug 1.5 Nm

Oil fill plug 3 Nm

Oil drain plug 5 Nm

Display bolts (2x) 4 Nm

Front number plate bolts (2x) 4 Nm, Loctite 243

Front fender bolts (4x) 4 Nm, Loctite 243

Front delta wing bolt (coolant cover) 2 Nm, Loctite 243

Rear delta wing bolts (2x) 4 Nm


BODYWORK

1. Remove the screw and spacer which secure the

seat from the underside of the subframe. Often, the

spacer will flare out after it passes through the

subframe with repeated install/removal cycles and

stay in place. (Fig. 1)

2. Lift the rear of the seat while pulling it towards the

rear of the bike to remove.

3. To install, tilt the front of the seat down and slide

the slotted boss (at the front underside of the seat)

underneath the seat button. Lower the rear of the seat

so the hooks engage with the holes in the top of the

fender. (Fig. 2 & 3)

4. Install the seat screw and spacer. Tighten the screw

to 4 Nm.

CHAPTER 2

SEAT & INSTALLATION

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3


1. Remove the seat (sEctioN 1).

2. Cut the zip-tie (A) securing the bottom of the

shroud to the down-tube of the skidframe, then pull it

away to free it from the tube.

3. Remove the bolts securing the shroud to the FBH

and the Charge Port Shroud (b, c), and pull the front

upper mounting point away from the Charge Port

Shroud. Slide the shroud to the rear, out from under

the Charge Port Cover. It is helpful to loosen the two

rear Charge Port Shroud bolts accessed from the top

to facilitate the removal of the shrouds.

NotE: thE bushiNgs should stay iN thE shRoud,

but iF thEy aRE loosE aNd comE out, bE suRE to

REiNstall thEm iN thEiR oRigiNal locatioNs. also,

thE FRoNt shRoud-to-Fbh bolt has a washER –

doN’t losE it.

4. To install, slide the shroud under the Charge Port

Shroud. If necessary, loosen the Charge Port Shroud

rear bolts to gain a little clearance to make installation

easier. Install the side bolts by tightening them to

4nm. Then re-tighten the rear bolts to 4nm. (Fig. 4)

cautioN: thE bolt (c) that sEcuREs thE chaRgE poRt

shRoud to thE shRoud thREads iNto a mEtal iNsERt

that is iN a plastic coVER. NEVER REmoVE with

powER tools, aNd always makE suRE thE bolt aNd

thREads aRE clEaN aNd FREE oF dEbRis.

5. Snap the bottom of the shroud onto the skidframe

and secure it with a new zip-tie, and trim the zip-tie

with flush-cutters.

NotE: MakE suRE thE zip-tiE Follows thE gRooVE iN

shRoud. (Fig. 5)

6. Install the seat (SEctioN 1).

BODYWORK

SHROUDS - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Fig. 4

Fig. 5


1. Wash off any dirt, mud or road grime from the

underside of the fender, especially from the bolt heads.

2. Remove the fender bolts.

NotE: bE caREFul Not to losE thE bushiNgs.

3. MX models: The number plate mount spuds should

stay in their brackets on the lower triple clamp. If they

are removed, be sure to reinstall them. (Fig. 6)

4. To install, tighten the bolts to 4 Nm and apply

Loctite 243.

NotE: bE suRE thE bushiNgs aRE iN placE, aNd, oN

sm modEls, tightEN thE VERtical bolts bEFoRE thE

hoRizoNtal bolts.

FRONT FENDER -

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Fig. 6

CHAPTER 2


1. Remove the number plate-to-upper triple clamp

bolts. NotE: BE caREFul Not to losE thE bushiNgs

iN thE NumbER platE bolt holEs.

2. Tilt the plate forward and lift it off of the mount spuds.

3. Installation is the reverse of removal. To install make

sure the bushings are in place. Tighten the bolts to 4

Nm, and apply Loctite 243. Please note that with the

bar pad in place, the bolts are accessed at a slight angle.

They are fairly easy to remove with the bar pad in place,

but VERY easy to cross-thread upon installation. Please

take care when starting the threads.

4. Remove the number plate/headlight housing bolts

from each side.

5. Tilt the plate forward, then unplug the electrical

connector from the headlight bulb.

6. Twist and pull the marker light to remove its bulb

holder from the number plate.

7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the

bushings are in place. Apply Loctite 243 to the bolts,

and tighten the bolts to 4 Nm.

FRONT NUMBER PLATE -


MX MODELS

SM MODELS

BODYWORK


NotE: REaR bulkhEad(Rbh) REFERs to thE REaR

sEctioN oF thE FRamE.

1. Remove the seat (sEctioN 1).

2. SM models: Follow the rear lighting wiring harness

out from the front of the subframe, and disconnect the

electrical connector from the main harness.

3. Remove the subframe mounting bolts from each

side. Then lift the subframe from the RBH.

4. To install, reverse the removal procedure, and take

notice of the following:

• Apply Loctite 243 to the bolts.

• Install the upper bolts first, then the lower bolts.

• Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm.

SUBFRAME - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CHAPTER 2


1. Each number plate is retained by four screws and

washers/compression limiters; they can be removed

without removing the subframe.


note of the following:

• Apply Loctite 243 to the front two screws (A).

• Tighten the screws to 2 Nm.

NUMBER PLATE (REAR) -


BODYWORK


1. Remove the three mud flap-to-rock guard screws.

Please take note of which spacer goes where.



• Install the center mud flap screw/compression

limiter first and tighten it to 2 Nm.

• Install the two outer screws/compression limiters

and tighten them to 2 Nm.

1. Remove the subframe (SEctioN 5), and the mud flap

(SEctioN 7).

2. Remove the number plates (SEctioN 6).

3. Remove the remaining rock guard screws and washers.

MUD FLAP - REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONROCK GUARD -


CHAPTER 2


1. Remove the seat (SEctioN 1).

2. Remove the three fender mounting screws/

compression limiters from the rear underside of

the subframe.

3. Remove the six fender-to-subframe screws from

the top of the fender, and detach the fender from

the subframe.

FENDER (REAR) - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



• Install the rear underside mounting screws/

compression limiters, but don’t tighten them yet.

• Apply Loctite 243 to the six top-side screws, and

install the screws/compression limiters and tighten

them to 2 Nm.

• Tighten the rear outer screws to 1.7 Nm.

• Tighten the rear center screw to 2 Nm.

BODYWORK


CautioN: BRakE Fluid is toxic aNd must bE haNdlEd with caRE. Do Not lEt it

gEt oNto ExposEd skiN oR iNto thE EyEs. Do Not iNgEst it. Always wEaR SaFEty

GlassEs whEN woRkiNg with chEmicals. BRakE Fluid caN damagE paiNt aNd somE

plastic suRFacEs. Wash oFF aNy spillEd bRakE Fluid with watER.

BRAKES

1. Place the bike on a workstand. Position a drain pan

beneath the caliper, then spray the caliper and pads

with brake system cleaner.

2. Push the body of the caliper toward the disc to

slightly depress the caliper pistons into their bores.

(Fig. 1)

3. Noting their orientation, remove the two retaining

clips, then pull out the pad pin. (Fig. 2)

4. Slide the pads downward and out of the caliper.

(Fig.3 & 4)

DoN’t pull thE bRakE lEVER whilE thE pads aRE

REmoVEd – thE pistoN will bE displacEd aNd might

Fall out oF thE boRE, VoidiNg thE systEm oF Fluid.

5. Inspect the pad spring in the caliper – if it is no a

tight fit or became dislodged when the pads were

removed, remove the caliper (SEctioN 4) and reinstall

the spring (or replace it with a new one, as necessary).

(Fig.5 & 6)

6. While the pads are out, check for brake fluid

seepage around the pistons. If there is evidence of

fluid, it is time to replace the piston seals (SEctioN 7).

BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT (FRONT, MX)

7. If new pads are being installed, push the pistons

back into the caliper as far as necessary to

accommodate the new, thicker pads, using hand

pressure or carefully pry them inwards. This will force

brake fluid back into the brake fluid reservoir, so it

may be necessary to remove the reservoir cap and

remove some fluid.

8. Slide the new pads into the caliper. Make sure the

upper ends rest in the pad support plates. (Fig. 7)

9. Pull the bottom ends of the pads against the caliper

spring; line up the holes in the pad backing plates with

the caliper pin holes, and then slide the pin through the

caliper and pads. Install the retaining clips in their

original orientation (outer clip facing forward, inner clip

facing the rear). (Fig. 8)

10. Squeeze the brake lever several times to bring the

pads into contact with the disc.

11. Check the fluid level in the front master cylinder

reservoir, and adjust as necessary.

CHAPTER 3


Fig. 8

Fig. 6

Fig. 4

Fig. 2Fig. 1

Fig. 3

Fig. 5

Fig. 7

BRAKES


CautioN: ThE FixEd calipER oN thE REdshiFt SM

usEs FouR iNdiVidual pistoNs aNd bRakE pads.

REplacE oNE pad at a timE to pREVENt aNy pistoNs

FRom poppiNg out oF thEiR boREs.




2. Starting with the bottom pad retaining pin, push

up on the pad spring to disengage the loops of the

spring from the pin, then pull the pin out. (Fig. 9)

3. Remove the pad spring. (Fig. 10)

4. Using pliers, pull one of the lower pads out of the

caliper. (Fig. 11)

DoN’t pull thE bRakE lEVER whilE aNy oF thE pads

aRE REmoVEd – thE pistoN will bE displacEd.

5. Push the piston back into its bore to make room for

the new, thicker pad.

KEEp aN EyE oN thE Fluid lEVEl iN thE FRoNt

mastER cyliNdER REsERVoiR – makE suRE it

doEsN’t oVERFlow.

6. Slide the new pad into place. (Fig. 12)

7. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 on the other, lower pad.

8. With both lower pads in place, position the pad

spring with the center loop tucked under the bottom

of the caliper body window.

BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT (FRONT, SM)

9. Push up on the spring and insert the pad pin

through the caliper. Make sure the end of the pin goes

into its hole in the outer half of the caliper. (Fig. 13)

10. Pull down on the pad spring to make sure it fully

wraps around the pin. (Fig. 14)

It’s impoRtaNt that thE spRiNg is a sNug Fit aNd

ENgagEs with thE piN sEcuREly – thE spRiNg is

what REtaiNs thE piN iN thE calipER!

11. Repeat Steps 2 through 10 to replace the upper

set of pads.

12. When done, make another check that the pad

spring is properly positioned with the center loop

tucked under the caliper body (A) and that it engages

properly with the pad pin (B). (Fig. 15)

13. If the spring is not seated properly or is not a tight

fit over the pin, the pin can back out due to vibration

the forces of normal braking. This could result in the

pin contacting the spokes and being sheared off which

could allow the pads which it retains to be ejected

from the caliper. These conditions would result in

piston displacement and loss of front braking action.

(Fig. 16)

14. Check the fluid level in the front master cylinder


CHAPTER 3


Fig. 16

Fig. 14

Fig. 12

Fig. 10Fig. 9

Fig. 11

Fig. 13

Fig. 15

BRAKES



beneath the caliper before spraying the caliper and

pads with brake system cleaner.


slightly depress the caliper pistons into their bores.

(Fig. 17)

BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT

(REAR,MX & SM)

3. Noting their orientation, remove the two retaining

clips, and pull out the pad pin. (Fig. 18 & 19)

4. Slide the inner pad back and out of the caliper.

(Fig. 20)

CautioN: DoN’t dEpREss thE bRakE pEdal whilE thE

pads aRE REmoVEd – thE pistoN will bE displacEd

out oF its boRE, VoidiNg thE systEm oF Fluid.

Fig. 18

Fig. 20

Fig. 22

Fig. 17

Fig. 19

Fig. 21

CHAPTER 3


5. Slide the outer pad and shims back and out of

the caliper. Note the arrangement of the shims.

(Fig. 21 & 22)

6. Inspect the pad spring in the caliper – if it isn’t a

tight fit or became dislodged when the pads were

removed, remove the caliper (SEctioN 6) and reinstall

the spring (or replace it with a new one, as necessary).

(Fig. 23 & 24)

7. Also check the pad support plates in the mounting

bracket. Make sure they fit tightly and are not worn. If

necessary, remove the caliper (SEctioN 6) and replace

them. (Fig. 25)

8. While the pads are out, check for brake fluid

seepage around the piston. If there is evidence of

fluid, it’s time to replace the piston seals (SEctioN 7).

9. If new pads are being installed, push the pistons

back into the caliper as far as necessary to

accommodate the new, thicker pads. Using hand

pressure, carefully pry them inwards. This will force

brake fluid back into the brake fluid reservoir, so it

may be necessary to remove the reservoir cap and to

remove some fluid.

10. Assemble the shims to the new outer pad; make

sure the retaining tangs on the outer shim wrap

around the pad backing plate and hold firmly.

Fig. 24Fig. 23

Fig. 25

BRAKES


Fig. 27

Fig. 29

Fig. 26

Fig. 28

Fig. 30

11. Slide the new pads into the caliper, and make

sure the forward ends rest in the pad support

plates. (Fig. 26, 27 & 28)

12. Line up the holes in the pad backing plates with

the caliper pin holes, and slide the pin through the

caliper and pads. Install the retaining clips in their

original orientation (facing inward). (Fig. 29 & 30)

13. Depress the brake pedal several times to bring

the pads into contact with the disc.

14. Check the fluid level in the rear master cylinder


CHAPTER 3


CautioN: BRakE Fluid is toxic aNd must bE haNdlEd

with caRE. Do Not lEt it gEt oNto ExposEd skiN

oR iNto thE EyEs. Do Not iNgEst it. Always wEaR

SaFEty GlassEs whEN woRkiNg with chEmicals.

BRakE Fluid caN damagE paiNt aNd somE plastic

suRFacEs. Wash oFF aNy spillEd bRakE Fluid with

watER.





spread the brake pads. This will make caliper

installation easier.

3. Unscrew the banjo fitting bolt (A) and recover

the sealing washers (B), then unscrew the caliper

mounting bolts (C) and detach the caliper and

mounting bracket from the fork. If the caliper is

just being removed for fork removal, for example,

do not remove the banjo bolt; just remove the

caliper mounting bolts, and detach the caliper and

mounting bracket. support the caliper with a length

of wire.

DoN’t lEt thE calipER haNg by thE bRakE hosE.

4. If the hose is disconnected, wrap it with a plastic

bag to prevent brake fluid from dripping out and

making a mess.

BRAKE CALIPER (FRONT,MX) -


5. To install, guide the caliper over the disc and

against the fork bracket. Apply Loctite 243 to the

bolts, and then install the bolts and tighten them to

25 Nm.

6. Using new sealing washers on either side of the

banjo fitting, connect the brake hose to the caliper if it

was removed, and tighten the banjo bolt to 23-26 Nm.

7. If the brake hose was disconnected, bleed the front

brake hydraulic system (SEctioN 11).

BRAKES



with caRE. Do Not lEt it gEt oNto ExposEd skiN oR

iNto thE EyEs. Do Not iNgEst it. Always wEaR SaFEty

GlassEs whEN woRkiNg with chEmicals. BRakE

Fluid caN damagE paiNt aNd somE plastic suRFacEs.

Wash oFF aNy spillEd bRakE Fluid with watER.




2. If the caliper is being completely removed (as for

overhaul, or whenever the brake hose is to be

disconnected), remove the brake pads to avoid

contaminating them with brake fluid (SEctioN 2).

3. Unscrew the banjo fitting bolt and recover the

sealing washers (A). If the caliper is just being

removed for fork removal, for example, do not remove

the banjo bolt; remove the caliper mounting bolts and

detach the caliper and mounting bracket, and support

the caliper with a length of wire.


4. Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts, and recover

the spacers between the caliper and mounting

bracket. Remove the caliper.

5. If the hose was disconnected, wrap it with a plastic


making a mess.

6. To install, guide the caliper over the disc and against

BRAKE CALIPER (FRONT,SM) -


the fork bracket. Apply Loctite 243 to the caliper

mounting bolts. Slide the spacers into place, and then

install the bolts, and tighten them to 32 Nm. Check that

the gap between the caliper and the brake disc is not

larger than 2.9 mm.

7. If the brake hose was removed, connect it to the

caliper using new sealing washers on either side of

the banjo fitting, and tighten the banjo bolt to 23-26

Nm. While tightening the banjo bolt, hold the banjo

fitting to prevent it from turning as the bolt is

tightened. The fitting should be in line with the seam

of the caliper body.

8. If the brake pads were removed, install them

(SEctioN 2), and squeeze the front brake lever to bring

the pads into contact with the disc.

9. If the brake hose was detached, bleed the front


CHAPTER 3






spread the brake pads. This will make caliper

installation easier.

3. Remove the rear wheel (ChaptER 4).

4. Unscrew the banjo fitting bolt and recover the sealing

washers (new ones should be obtained for installation). If

the caliper is just being removed for swingarm removal,

for example, do not remove the banjo bolt; proceed to

the Step 6, then support the caliper/ mounting bracket so

it does not hang by the brake hose. (Fig. 31 & 32)


5. If the hose was disconnected, wrap it with a plastic

BRAKE CALIPER (REAR, MX & SM) - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


making a mess.

6. Slide the caliper and mounting bracket forward until the

relief in the bracket slot is aligned with the lug on the

swingarm, and detach the caliper and bracket from the

swingarm. (Fig. 33)

7. To install the brake caliper mount bracket, position

the relief on the caliper mounting bracket over the lug

on the swingarm, and slide it to the rear.

8. If the brake hose was removed, connect it to the

caliper using new sealing washers on either side of the

banjo fitting. Then, tighten the banjo bolt to 23-26 Nm.

9. Install the rear wheel (ChaptER 4).

10. If the brake hose was disconnected, bleed the rear


Fig. 31

Fig. 33Fig. 32

BRAKES


CautioN: BRakE Fluid caN damagE paiNt aNd somE

plastic suRFacEs. Wash oFF aNy spillEd bRakE

Fluid with watER.




2. Remove the brake pads from the caliper (SEctioN

1, MX [front]; SEctioN 2 SM [front]; SEctioN 3, rear).

3. Remove the caliper (SEctioN 4, MX [front]; SEctioN

5, SM [front]; SEctioN 6, rear).

4. MX front and MX/SM rear calipers: Pull the caliper

pin boots from the ridges on the pins, and detach the

caliper from its mounting bracket.

BRAKE CALIPER OVERHAUL

5. SM front caliper: Remove the three screws, and

separate the caliper halves. (Fig. 35)

6. MX front and MX/SM rear calipers: Place a folded

shop rag in front of the piston, the use low-pressure

compressed air directed into the fluid port to ease the

piston(s) out of the caliper bore, and twist the piston

by hand to remove it. (Fig. 36 & 37)

WaRNiNg: DoN’t positioN youR FiNgERs iN FRoNt oF

thE pistoN!

NotE: ON FRoNt calipERs it may bE NEcEssaRy to

REmoVE oNE pistoN at a timE, coVERiNg thE opEN

boRE to REmoVE thE sEcoNd pistoN.

Fig. 32

Fig. 34

Fig. 31

Fig. 33

Fig. 35

Fig. 37

Fig. 34

Fig. 36

CHAPTER 3


7. SM front caliper: Use brake piston pliers to

twist and pull the pistons from their bores.

Alternatively, use low-pressure compressed air to

ease the pistons out of the bore.

WaRNiNg: DoN’t usE high-pREssuRE compREssEd

aiR oR allow thE pistoNs to bE FoRcEFully EjEctEd

FRom thE calipER – thEy caN bEcomE daNgERous

pRojEctilEs!

8. Using a wooden or plastic pick (such as a toothpick),

remove the dust seal and piston seal from the bore(s).

CautioN: Do Not usE a mEtal pick – a scRatch

could causE a Fluid lEak. (Fig. 38)

9. Clean the bore(s) with brake system cleaner, and blow

it out with filtered, compressed air. Inspect the piston(s)

and bore(s) for scoring and other undesirable conditions.

If any are found, replace the caliper. (Fig. 39)

10. Lubricate the caliper bore(s) with clean brake

fluid, and install the seals in their bore(s). Make sure

the lips of the piston (lower) seal face toward the

bottom of the bore, and that neither seal is twisted.

(Fig. 40)

Fig. 38

Fig. 40Fig. 39

BRAKES


Fig. 32

Fig. 34 Fig. 34

Fig. 41

Fig. 42 Fig. 43

11. Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid, and

press it into the bore until it bottoms. On multi-piston

calipers, repeat for each piston. (Fig. 41)

12. SM front caliper: Assemble the caliper halves,

using a new O-ring in the counterbore for the fluid

passage (A).

13. MX front and MX/SM rear calipers: Clean the

caliper slide pins, and lubricate them with silicone

brake grease. (Fig.42)

14. MX front and MX/SM rear calipers: Assemble the

caliper to the mounting bracket, and push it in until it

seats. Make sure the caliper pin boots seat over the

ridges on the pins. (Fig. 43)

15. Reinstall the caliper (SEctioN 4, MX [front];

SEctioN 5, SM [front]; SEctioN 6, rear).

16. Reinstall the brake pads (SEctioN 1, MX [front];

SEctioN 2 SM [front]; SEctioN 3, rear).

17. Bleed the hydraulic system (SEctioN 11).

CHAPTER 3


1. If the master cylinder is being removed for

replacement or overhaul, remove the reservoir cap and

evacuate the fluid with a suction gun, and then unscrew

the fluid hose banjo fitting bolt (A). Obtain new sealing

washers (B). If the master cylinder is just being removed

for handlebar replacement, for example, don’t remove

the banjo fitting bolt.

2. If working on an Redshift SM, slide the rubber boot

up, loosen the locknut, and unscrew the mirror. If you

are only removing the master cylinder for repositioning,

this step isn’t necessary. (Fig.44)

3. Note the installed position of the master cylinder/

clamp on the handlebar to insure it is installed in the

same position after servicing.

BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER (FRONT) -


Fig. 44

BRAKES


4. Remove the mounting bolts, and detach the master

cylinder/brake lever from the handlebar. (Fig. 45 & 46)

5. Install the master cylinder by reversing the removal

procedure. Tighten the mounting bolts to 4 Nm evenly

so that the gaps between each end of the clamp and

the master cylinder are equal. (Fig. 47 & 48)

6. If the fluid hose was disconnected, use new sealing

washers on either side of the banjo fitting, and tighten

the banjo fitting bolt to 23-26 Nm.

7. If the fluid hose was disconnected, bleed the front


8. SM models: Reinstall the mirror; adjust the angle;

tighten the locknut securely.

Fig. 34

Fig. 34Fig. 34

Fig. 34Fig. 47

Fig. 46Fig. 45

Fig. 48

CHAPTER 3


1. Remove the brake pedal-to-master cylinder

pushrod nut and bolt. (Fig. 49)

2. If the master cylinder is being removed for

replacement or overhaul, remove the reservoir cap,

and evacuate the fluid with a suction gun before

unscrewing the fluid hose banjo fitting bolt/brake

light switch (SM) (A). Obtain new sealing washers (B).

(If the master cylinder is being removed for

repositioning, do not remove the banjo fitting/brake

light switch bolt.) Unscrew the mounting bolts and

detach the master cylinder from the boot guard.

3. On SM models, cut the zip-tie, and unplug the brake

light switch electrical connector under the rear bulkhead;

this will enable you to unscrew the banjo bolt/brake light

switch without twisting the wire. (Fig. 50)

4. Install the master cylinder by reversing the removal

procedure. Apply Loctite 243 to the mounting bolts,

and tighten the bolts to 10 Nm.

6. If the fluid hose was disconnected, use new sealing

washers on either side of the banjo fitting, and tighten

the banjo fitting bolt to 23-26 Nm.

7. If you’re working on a Redshit SM, guide the brake

light switch harness into position. Plug in the electrical

connector, and secure the harness with a new zip-tie.

8. If the fluid hose was disconnected, bleed the rear


BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER (REAR) -


Fig. 50

Fig. 49

BRAKES



with caRE. Do Not lEt it gEt oNto ExposEd skiN,

iNto thE EyEs. Do Not iNgEst it. Always wEaR

SaFEty GlassEs whEN woRkiNg with chEmicals.

BRakE Fluid caN damagE paiNt aNd somE plastic

suRFacEs. Wash oFF aNy spillEd bRakE Fluid with

watER.

1. Remove the master cylinder (front, SEctioN 8;

rear, SEctioN 9).

2. Front master cylinder: remove the brake lever

(SEctioN 12).

3. Carefully pry out the dust boot. (Fig. 51)

4. Depress the piston, and remove the snap-ring.

(Fig. 52)

5. Remove the piston and spring.

BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER OVERHAUL

6. Using a twisting motion, pull off and separate the

spring from the piston.

7. Using a small screwdriver, remove the E-clip. (Fig. 53)

8. Remove the inner piston cup and washer.

9. Using a wooden or plastic pick such as a toothpick,

remove the outer piston cup from the piston.

CautioN: DoN’t usE a mEtal pick – a scRatch could

causE a Fluid lEak past thE cup, REsultiNg iN

REducEd bRakE pERFoRmaNcE. (Fig. 54)

10. Clean the piston and master cylinder with brake

system cleaner, and blow it out with filtered,

compressed air. Check the piston and bore for scoring

or other undesirable conditions. If any are found,

replace the master cylinder.

Fig. 32

Fig. 34

Fig. 31 Fig. 52

Fig. 54Fig. 53

Fig. 51

CHAPTER 3


11. Install the new outer piston cup, washer and inner

piston cup, in that order, to the piston. Make sure the

piston cup lips are pointing toward the inner end of

the piston. Install the E-clip to retain the inner cup.

12. Replace the spring inside the piston.

13. Lubricate the piston and cups and the master

cylinder bore with clean brake fluid. Install the

piston into the bore, and make sure the lips of the

cups enter squarely so that they don’t become folded

back and damaged.

14. Depress the piston and install the snap-ring. Be

sure it seats in its bore completely.

15. Install the dust boot on the pushrod, and make

sure it seats over the ridge on the pushrod before

folding it back down.

16. Lubricate the piston cavity and the end of the

pushrod with silicone brake grease. Then install the

pushrod and dust boot. Make sure the flange of the

dust boot seats into its counterbore in the master

cylinder. (Fig. 55, 56, 57, & 58)

17. Install the master cylinder (front, SEctioN 8; rear,

SEctioN 9).

18. Bleed the hydraulic system (SEctioN 11).

Fig. 56

Fig. 58

Fig. 55

Fig. 57

BRAKES


1. Remove the cap and diaphragm, and fill the reservoir

with clean DOT 4 brake fluid.

WaRNiNg: ONly usE bRakE Fluid FRom a sEalEd

coNtaiNER that is lEss thaN oNE yEaR old.

2. Pump the lever or pedal slowly a few times until no

air bubbles float up from the bottom of the reservoir.

Temporarily reinstall the reservoir cap.

3. Remove the dust cap from the bleeder valve at the

top of the master cylinder. Place a box-end wrench on

the bleeder valve fitting, and attach a clear plastic

hose to the fitting. Submerge the other end of the

hose into a container partially filled with clean brake

fluid, or attach it to the proper port of a designated

bleeder cup.

4. Squeeze the lever three or four times. Keeping the

lever compressed, open the bleeder valve, and allow

fluid and bubbles to escape from the master cylinder.

Tighten the bleeder valve, and repeat until no more

bubbles are present in the escaping fluid. (Fig. 59)

NotE: KEEp aN EyE oN thE bRakE Fluid lEVEl iN thE

REsERVoiR, addiNg as NEcEssaRy. DoN’t lEt it RuN

dRy oR you’ll haVE to staRt thE blEEdiNg pRocEss

all oVER.

BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM

FRONT BRAKE, SM MODELS

CHAPTER 3


5. Remove the dust cap from the bleeder valve at the

top of the caliper. Place a box-end wrench on the bleeder

valve fitting, and attach a clear plastic hose to the fitting.

Submerge the other end of the hose into a container

partially filled with clean brake fluid, or attach it to the

proper port of a designated bleeder cup.

6. Squeeze the lever or depress the pedal three or

four times. Keeping the lever compressed, open the

bleeder valve, and allow fluid and bubbles to escape

from the master cylinder. Tighten the bleeder valve,

and repeat until no more bubbles are present in the

escaping fluid. (Fig. 60 & 61)

NotE: KEEp aN EyE oN thE bRakE Fluid lEVEl iN thE

REsERVoiR, addiNg as NEcEssaRy. DoN’t lEt it RuN dRy

oR you’ll haVE to staRt thE blEEdiNg pRocEss all oVER.

7. Sometimes it can be difficult to purge all of the air

out of the system, or to even prime the system to allow

bleeding such as after a caliper or master cylinder

overhaul. In cases such as this, it is helpful to use a

vacuum pump attached to the proper port of the

designated bleeder cup. Squeeze the vacuum pump a

few times, and then open the bleeder valve, and allow

fluid and air bubbles to flow from the caliper. Close the

valve before the vacuum is depleted. Once the

hydraulic system has been primed, bleed the system

as described in Step 6. (Fig. 62)

8. When no more air bubbles are present in the fluid

being ejected and you have a firm brake lever or

pedal, top off the brake fluid, and reinstall the

diaphragm and reservoir cap. Make sure the

diaphragm is not distorted. On the rear master

cylinder, make sure the O-ring on the reservoir cap is

in good condition.

FRONT AND REAR BRAKE, ALL MODELS

Fig. 60

Fig. 62

Fig. 59

Fig. 61

BRAKES


1. Push the dust cover back to expose the pivot bolt (MX

models). Unscrew the pivot bolt locknut from the

underside of the lever perch, and unscrew the pivot bolt

from the top side. (Fig. 63)

2. Detach the lever from the perch.

3. Transfer the pushrod to the new lever.

4. Clean the pivot bolt, and lubricate it with silicone-

based or lithium-based grease.

5. Lubricate the pushrod with silicone-based brake grease.

6. Install the lever to the perch, and insert the pushrod

into the master cylinder dust boot. Make sure the boot

seats around the ridge on the pushrod. (Fig. 64)

BRAKE LEVER -


Fig. 34

Fig. 31

Fig. 64

Fig. 63

CHAPTER 3


1. Remove the brake pedal-to-master cylinder

pushrod nut and bolt.

2. Remove the pedal pivot bolt, and detach the pedal,

bushing and spring, noting how the spring and pedal

are arranged.

3. Clean the pedal, bushing and pivot bolt, and

lubricate the bushing with silicone-based or lithium-

based grease.

4. Apply Loctite 243 to the pedal pivot bolt. Install the

pedal, bushing, return spring and pivot bolt. Tighten

the pivot bolt to 19 Nm.

5. Reconnect the pushrod to the pedal, and tighten

the bolt/nut to 10 Nm, and apply Loctite 243.

6. Pedal height can be adjusted by loosening the bolt

securing the cam at the rear of the pedal (A) and

turning the cam (B) to alter pedal height. Pedal

freeplay will most likely have to be adjusted when this

is done. Loosen the locknut (C) on the pushrod and

turning the pushrod (D) to achieve the proper freeplay.

(Fig. 65)

1. Place the bike on a workstand, then remove the

wheel (ChaptER 4).

CautioN: DoN’t squEEzE thE bRakE lEVER oR dEpREss

thE bRakE pEdal whilE thE whEEl is REmoVEd – thE

calipER pistoN(s) will bE displacEd. Also, do Not

lay thE whEEl dowN aNd allow it to REst oN thE

disc oR, oN REaR whEEls, thE spRockEt – thE disc

oR spRockEt could waRp. SEt thE whEEl oN a paiR

oF wood blocks.

2. Remove the disc retaining bolts and separate the

disc from the wheel hub.

3. Clean the threads of the disc retaining bolts.

4. If a new disc is being installed, clean the protective

coating off with brake system cleaner.

5. Install the disc to the hub. Apply Loctite 243 to the

threads of the bolts, and install them. Tighten them in

a criss-cross pattern to 14 Nm.

6. Reinstall the wheel (ChaptER 4).

7. If a new disc has been installed, replace the brake pads.

8. Squeeze the brake lever or depress the brake pedal

to bring the pads into contact with the disc.

BRAKE PEDAL -


BRAKE DISC - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Fig. 65

BRAKES


CHAPTER 4

SUSPENSION, STEERING,WHEELS & FINAL DRIVE

Refer to ChaptER 1 - PagE 22


1. Remove the wheel, then remove the hub spacers.

2. Lay the wheel on a pair of wood blocks.

CautioN: DoN’t allow thE whEEl to REst oN thE

bRakE disc oR thE spRockEt.

3. Using a seal puller or a pair of screwdrivers (one

acting as a fulcrum with some protection for the

visible surfaces), pry the seals from the hub. If present,

remove the bearing retainer (some wheels use either

a snap-ring or a threaded retainer). (Fig. 1)

FRONT WHEEL - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

REAR WHEEL - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

WHEEL SEALS & BEARINGS - REPLACE

4. Drive the bearings out of the hub using a long drift

and hammer from the opposite sides. The drift must

contact the inner race of the bearing on the opposite

side which means the hub spacer must be displaced.

Note: This can potentially damage the bearings. If this

is not possible, use a wheel bearing removal tool; place

the proper-sized split collar of the tool into one of the

bearings, and pass the wedged rod through the bearing

on the other side. Next, set the head of the split collar

on the ground, and tap the wedge into it. Set the wheel

back onto the wood blocks, and tap on the rod to

remove the bearing. Retrieve the bearing spacer.

Repeat to remove the other bearing. (Fig. 2)

Fig. 1 Fig. 2


SUSPENSION, STEERING, WHEELS & FINAL DRIVE

Fig. 3

5. Clean the interior of the hub, the hub spacers, and

the bearing spacer.

6. Lubricate the outer diameter of the bearings with

multi-purpose grease. Set a bearing on one side of the

hub, and tap it into place with a hammer and bearing

driver. Caution: The driver must only contact the outer

race of the bearing. If equipped, install the bearing

retainer. (Fig. 3)

7. Turn the wheel over.Install the bearing spacer,

followed by the other bearing. Repeat Step 6 to install

the bearing.

8. Lubricate the lips of the new wheel seals and push

them into place. If necessary, use the bearing driver to

tap them into place.

9. Lubricate the hub spacers and axle before installing

the hub spacers to the hub.

10. Install the wheel.


NotE: IF thE haNdlEbaR is oNly bEiNg REmoVEd FoR

accEss to thE haNdlEbaR mouNts oR uppER tRiplE

clamp, igNoRE StEps 2 thRough 4 aNd suppoRt thE

haNdlEbaR with a stRap oR RopE. DoN’t lEt it haNg

by thE bRakE hosE oR wiRiNg haRNEssEs.

1. MX models: Remove the dash/crash pad (ChaptER 8).

2. SM models: Remove the left mirror mount and the

turn signal/horn/Hi-Lo beam switch. Cut the zip-ties

securing the wiring harness.

3. Remove the map switch, start/stop/run switch and

the throttle switch/tube (ChaptER 8). Cut the zip-ties

securing the wiring harnesses.

4. Remove the brake master cylinder (and reservoir

on SM models) without disconnecting the hose

(ChaptER 3).

5. Note the position of the handlebar in relation to

the parting lines of the mounts so it can be reinstalled

in the same attitude. Loosen the handlebar clamp

bolts a little at a time, and remove them. Separate

the handlebar from the lower clamps.

6. If necessary, remove the bolts and detach the lower

mounts from the upper triple clamp noting to which of

the three positions they were installed. All machines

are shipped with the position in the middle.

HANDLEBAR & MOUNTS -


Fig. 34

Fig. 34

Fig. 34

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

CHAPTER 4


1. Cut the grips off the handlebar with a razor knife.e

Be careful not to slice into the visible surface of the bar

or throttle tube.

2. Clean all traces of grip glue from the handlebar and

throttle tube.

3. Apply a thin, even film of grip glue to the handlebar

and to the inside of the LH Grip. Please note that the

RH Grip, which goes over the throttle, should not be

installed with grip glue as it has a tendency to get

between the throttle tube and the handlebar. This

could glue them together which could result in a loss of

control. The Alta throttle tube diameter is large and as

long as a clean grip is installed on a clean tube, it will

not spin with use. It is often necessary to use

compressed air blown into the grip in conjunction with

hand pressure to get the grips onto the throttle tube.

4. Slide the grip onto the bar, and position it so the

pattern is straight. If installing a half-waffle style grip,

be sure to position the waffle pattern where the rider’s

fingers are (not the palms).

5. Allow the glue to set-up before riding (times vary –

see the recommendation on the product).

GRIPS - REPLACE

7. If removed, place the lower mounts onto the upper

triple clamp; apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the

bolts. Install the bolts and tighten them to 32 Nm.

Note: Make sure the mounts engage properly with the

upper triple clamp. (Fig. 4)

8. Apply Loctite 243 to the clamp bolts. Set the

handlebar into the lower mounts, and install the

clamps and bolts and tighten them until they are

just snug.

9. Center the handlebar in the two mounts, and rotate

it as necessary to position it as it was before removal.

(Fig. 5)

10. Tighten the handlebar clamp bolts a lit tle at a

time in an alternating pattern to 10 Nm. Make sure

the gaps on either side of each clamp are equal.

(Fig. 6)

11. The remainder of installation is the reverse of

removal; refer to the appropriate chapters for

details and specifications.



1. Place the bike on a lift or pit stand, and remove the

front wheel (SEctioN 1).

2. Measure the protrusion of the fork tubes from the

top of the upper triple clamp, and record this

measurement. (Fig. 7)

3. If the forks are being removed for servicing, loosen

the upper triple clamp bolts (A), and break loose the

fork cap (B) (on MX models this will necessitate

removal of the handlebar [SEctioN 4] in order to use

the special fork cap wrench).

4. Detach the brake caliper from the left fork leg (ChaptER

3). Free the brake hose from its guide and clamp on the

fork, noting how the ferrule on the brake hose fits into

the clamp. (Fig. 8 & 9)

NotE: DoN’t discoNNEct thE hosE, but bE suRE to

haNg thE calipER out oF thE way with a stRap oR

lENgth oF RopE.

CautioN: DoN’t squEEzE thE FRoNt bRakE lEVER

whilE thE calipER is REmoVEd – thE calipER pistoNs

could bE displacEd.

5. Loosen the upper (if not already done) and lower

triple clamp bolts, then slide the fork tubes out of the

triple clamps with a twisting motion. (Fig. 10)

6. If necessary, remove the fork guards from the lower

fork legs.

7. Remove the pinch bolts from the upper and lower

triple clamps and clean the threads. Alta uses a

specific type of bolt in these locations with a low

friction coating that is made to interact with anodized

aluminum. Do not grease these bolts, just clean them

and torque them to spec.

8. Slide the fork tubes into the lower triple clamp and

then into the upper triple clamp until the tubes

protrude from the upper triple clamp the same

distance as measured in Step 2. Turn the upper tubes

so that the COMP and REB (MX models) or COMP (SM

models) marks are positioned such that a seated rider

can see them. On SM models, the reflectors on the

upper fork tubes should be perpendicular to the

centerline of the bike. (Fig. 11)

9. Tighten the lower triple clamp pinch bolts a lit tle

at a time up to 10 Nm. Do not over-tighten as this

will cause excessive fork stiction and rapid wear of

fork components.

10. If the forks had been disassembled for service,

tighten the fork caps to 40 Nm.

11. Tighten the upper triple clamp pinch bolts a little

at a time up to 10 Nm..


removal; refer to the appropriate Sections and

Chapters for details and specifications.

FORKS - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CHAPTER 4


Fig. 11

Fig. 9

Fig. 7

Fig.8

Fig. 10




SUSPENSION - ADJUSTMENTS

TRIPLE CLAMPS & STEERING STEM -


1. Remove the handlebar (SEctioN 4).

2. Remove the forks (SEctioN 6).

3. Remove the steering stem nut (A) and the upper

triple clamp-to-steering stem pinch bolt (B). (Fig. 12)

4. Remove the upper triple clamp from the steering

stem, and drop the lower triple clamp/steering stem

out of the steering head.

5. Remove the upper steering head bearing shield,

X-ring, O-ring and bearing from the steering head.

6. For steering head bearing servicing (SEctioN 11).

7. Insert the lower triple clamp/steering stem/bearing

(lubricated) into the steering head.

8. Install the (lubricated) upper steering head bearing

(A) onto the steering stem, and install the X-ring (B),

O-ring (C) and bearing shield (D). (Fig. 13 & 14)

9. Wipe off any grease on the exposed steering stem

with a shop rag soaked with contact cleaner. Install

the upper triple clamp onto the steering stem. Then,

install the steering stem nut and tighten it hand-tight.

(Fig. 15)

10. Install the forks into the triple clamps. Install the

lower triple clamp pinch bolts, and temporarily

tighten them.

11. Tighten the steering stem nut to 30 Nm. (Fig. 16)

12. Loosen the lower triple clamp pinch bolts, and

adjust the height and position of the forks in the

upper triple clamp (Section 6).

13. Tighten the lower triple clamp pinch bolts to 10 Nm.

(Fig. 17)

14. Loosen the steering stem nut.

15. Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the upper

triple clamp-to-steering stem pinch bolt. Install the

bolt, and tighten it to 10 Nm. (Fig. 18)

16. Tighten the steering stem nut to 25 Nm.

17. Tighten the upper triple clamp pinch bolts to 10 Nm.

(Fig. 19)

18. The remainder of installation is the reverse

of removal.

CHAPTER 4


Fig. 17

Fig. 19

Fig. 15

Fig. 13Fig. 12

Fig.14

Fig. 16

Fig. 18



STEERING HEAD BEARINGS & STEERING STEM - SERVICE & REPAIR

1. Remove the triple clamps/steering stem (PagE 60).

2. Remove the bearing shield, X-Ring, upper steering

head bearing and O-ring from the steering head.

3. Using two screwdrivers, pry up the lower steering

head bearing from the steering stem, and remove the

seal. If the bearing is stuck, use a bearing splitter and

press to draw it off. Remove the seal from the steering

stem.

4. Wipe the upper and lower bearing races in the

steering head clean, and inspect them for wear. If the

bearings are being replaced, the races must be

replaced too. To remove the races, drive them out

from the opposite sides with a hammer and long drift.

5. The races can be installed with a bearing driver, but

it’s best to use a steering head bearing press tool with

the proper adapters. They must be installed squarely

and until they bottom out. (Fig. 20 & 21)

6. The steering stem can be removed from the lower

triple clamp by removing the two bolts from the

underside of the triple clamp. (Fig. 22)

7. The fork offset can be adjusted by repositioning the

steering stem in the lower triple clamp. Standard

setting is with the steering stem offset to the rear; the

stem can be positioned with the offset toward the

front. As-shipped with the stem offset towards the

rear, the bike has less trail and therefore quicker

steering. Moving the stem offset towards the front

increases the trail which results in heavier steering

but more stability. (Fig. 23)

Fig. 32

Fig. 34

Fig. 31 Fig. 21

Fig. 23Fig. 22

Fig. 20

CHAPTER 4


8. If removed, clean the steering stem and its bore in

the lower triple clamp before installing the stem into

the triple clamp. Install the two bolts, and tighten

them to 20 Nm. Apply Loctite 243.

9. Install a new seal to the steering stem. (Fig. 24)

10. If the same bearings are being installed, clean

them with solvent followed by brake system cleaner,

and allow them to dry. Pack the bearings with

bearing grease; a bearing packing tool is the most

convenient way to do this, but grease can be forced

into the bearings by placing grease on the palm of

your hand, then scraping the large diameter side of

the bearing along your palm. Regardless of which

method is used, make sure the bearing is completely

packed with grease.

11. Place the lower bearing onto the steering stem by

pushing it down until it seats; if necessary, use a

tubular adapter that bears only on the inner race, and

tap it into place. (Fig. 25)

12. Apply a layer of grease to the upper and lower

races in the steering head.

13. Install the steering stem/triple clamps

(SEctioN 10).


removal. Refer to the appropriate Sections and


Fig. 25

Fig. 24



1. Place the bike on a lift or pit stand.

2. Remove the subframe (ChaptER 7).

3. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.

(Fig. 26)

4. Support the shock absorber, and remove the upper

mounting bolt. Lift the shock from rear bulkhead and

tri-link. (Fig. 27)

5. Clean the threads of the bolts, and apply Loctite

271 to them.

6. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten

the upper and lower mounting bolts to 60 Nm.

7. Install the subframe (ChaptER 7).


2. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt (A).

3. Remove the tri-link-to-swingarm nut/bolt (B) and

the dogbone link-to-rear bulkhead (RBH) nut/bolt.

Next, remove the tri-link and dogbone link. Remove

the dogbone-to-tri-link nut/bolt (D), and separate the

two components.

4. Slide the spindle out of the dogbone bearings, and

remove the seals.

5. Remove the cups, spindles, seals, shims, and

thrust washers from the tri-link, laying out all of the

parts in order.

SHOCK ABSORBER -


SHOCK LINKAGE - REMOVAL,

BEARING SERVICE & INSTALLATION

Fig. 34

Fig. 31

Fig. 27

Fig. 26

CHAPTER 4


11. Install the cups to the tri-link. (Fig. 31)

CautioN: BE caREFul Not to Fold thE lips oF thE

sEals uNdER whEN iNstalliNg thE cups.

12. Assemble the dogbone and the tri-link by

inserting the bolt from the left to the right (as installed

on the bike). Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the

bolt., Install the nut, and tighten it to 80 Nm.

13. Assemble the dogbone and tri-link to the RBH and

swingarm, installing the bolts from the left to the

right. Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the bolts.

Install the nuts, and tighten them to 80 Nm.

14. Install the shock absorber lower mounting bolt,

and tighten it to 60 Nm. Apply Loctite 271.

Fig. 34 Fig. 34

Fig. 31 Fig. 31

Fig. 30 Fig. 31

Fig. 28 Fig. 29

6. If the bearings are being serviced (lubricated),

clean them with solvent followed by brake system

cleaner, and then allow them to dry. (Fig. 28)

7. If the bearings are being replaced, press them out of

the tri-link or dogbone with a press and proper adapter,

or knock them out with a properly sized bearing driver

and a hammer. (Fig. 29)

8. Press the new bearings followed by the seals into

the dogbone.

9. Similarly, press the new bearings followed by the

thrust washers and seals. into the tri-link.

10. Lubricate the bearings with bearing grease. Then

lubricate and install the spindles into their respective

bearings. (Fig. 30)




2. Remove the rear wheel (SEctioN 2).

3. Slide the brake caliper mount off the swingarm,

and free the hose from its guide. Hang the caliper

from the subframe with a strap.

CautioN: DoN’t lEt thE calipER haNg by thE hosE.

4. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt

(A) and the tri-link-to-swingarm nut/bolt (B). Swing

the tri-link and dogbone down and out of the way.

5. Remove the galaxy-shaped, left-side boot guard/

sprocket cover (ChaptER 7).

6. Remove the nuts/bolts securing the chain guide to

the swingarm, and remove the chain.

7. Unscrew the swingarm pivot bolt, and detach the

swingarm from the rear bulkhead (RBH). Retrieve the

spacer from the RBH. (Fig. 32)

SWINGARM - REMOVAL,

BEARING SERVICE & INSTALLATION

Fig. 34

Fig. 31

Fig. 33

Fig. 32

CHAPTER 4


8. Remove the cups, spindles, seals and thrust

washers from the swingarm. Lay out all of the parts

in order.

9. If the bearings are being serviced (lubricated),

clean them with solvent followed by brake system

cleaner. Then allow them to dry.

10. If the bearings are being replaced, press them

out of the swingarm with a press and proper

adapter, or knock them out with a properly sized

bearing driver and a hammer.

11. Press the new bearings followed by the seals

into the swingarm.

12. Alternatively, a drawbolt-type bearing/bushing

installer, with the proper dies, can be used to pull the

bearings followed by the seals into the swingarm.

13. Lubricate the bearings with bearing grease, and

then lubricate and install the spindles followed by the

cups into their bearings.

CautioN: BE caREFul Not to Fold thE lips oF thE

sEals uNdER whEN iNstalliNg thE cups.

14. Guide the swingarm into position on the RBH,

and install the pivot bolt into the left side of the

swingarm only.

15. Install the spacer between the bosses on the RBH,

and slide the pivot bolt all the way through. (Fig. 33)

16. Tighten the pivot bolt to 85 Nm.

17. Connect the tri-link to the swingarm and the

shock absorber. Install the bolts, and tighten them

to their specified torque values: 80 Nm with Loctite

243 for the tri-link bolt; 60 Nm with Loctite 271 for

the shock bolt.

NotE: BE suRE to iNstall thE tRi-liNk-to-swiNgaRm

bolt FRom lEFt to Right.


removal. Refer to the appropriate Sections and


BEARING SERVICE


DRIVE CHAIN -




CHAPTER 5

COOLING SYSTEM

COOLING SYSTEM - DRAIN & REFILL

1. Remove the coolant fill plug cover at the front of the

Delta wing.

2. Remove the fill plug.

3. Place a drain pan under the center of the bike.

Unscrew the drain plug (A), and allow the coolant to

drain. The drain plug is located on the rear bulkhead

(RBH) above the right-side swingarm pivot. Tilt the

bike upright to ensure complete draining.

NotE: EaRly-build modEls haVE a shoRt dRaiN hosE

attachEd to thE dRaiN plug; diREct thE hosE iNto thE

dRaiN paN. LatER-build modEls haVE a dRaiN plug

with No hosE.


COOLING SYSTEM

4. After the coolant has drained, tighten the drain

plug to 5 Nm.

5. If available, thread the fill adapter available on our

website into the fill port, then attach the filler funnel

to the adapter and open the valve. (Fig. 33)

6. Pinch the end of the breather hose connected to the

barb near the top of the fill port hose with a hemostat.

(Fig. 34)

7. Add the type and quantity of coolant specified above to

the fill port using a funnel. Turn the key to the ON position

to activate the coolant pump and circulate the coolant. Add

additional coolant if necessary to bring the level of coolant

up to the bottom of the fill port. Filling takes about 1 hour

with the pump running. (Fig. 35)

Fig. 34Fig. 36

Fig. 33

Fig. 35

Fig. 34

8. Check the condition of the O-ring on the fill plug; if

necessary, replace it with a new one.

9. Apply clean coolant to the O-ring. Install the fill plug,

and tighten it 1.5 Nm.

10. Turn the key to the OFF position. Remove the hemostat;

be prepared for a bit of coolant spillage.

11. Install the fill plug cover, and tighten the bolt to 2 Nm

with Loctite 243.

12. If working on an early-build model, position the

drain hose between the RBH and the subframe, as

shown. (Fig. 36)


COOLANT PUMP -


1. Drain the coolant (SEctioN 1).

2. Depress the tab (A) and unplug the electrical

connector.

3. Using a razor knife, cut through the heat-shrink

clamps (B) on the hoses, and detach the hoses from

the pump. It is nearly impossible to cut the heat-shrink

clamps off of the hoses without also cutting the hoses.

Make sure to have a new set of hoses ready any time

the heat shrink has to be removed. Consider these

consumable items.

4. Remove the pump bracket-to-FBH mounting nuts

(C, right mounting nut shown), then detach the pump

from the FBH. Note: The pump bracket nuts also

secure the rear of the DC Charge Port (DCCP).

5. Loosen the pinch screw, and slide the pump out of

the bracket.

6. Slide the new pump into the bracket; don’t tighten

the pinch screw yet.

7. Install the pump and bracket, and tighten the

mounting bracket nuts to 10 Nm. Connect the power

plug to the pump.

8. Slide new heat-shrink clamps over the hoses, and

attach the hoses to the fittings on the pump. Using a

heat gun, heat the clamps until they shrink tightly

enough to secure the hoses. Try to twist the hoses. If

the heat-shrink is secure, you should not be able to

turn them.

NotE: IN thE EVENt that hEat-shRiNk clamps aRE

Not aVailablE, scREw-typE oR spRiNg-typE clamps

may bE usEd.

9. Tighten the pinch-screw to 2 Nm.

10. Refill the cooling system (SEctioN 1).

WaRNiNg: ThE bikE must bE complEtEly cool bEFoRE

pERFoRmiNg this pRocEduRE.

NotE: ThE coolaNt pump is locatEd at thE FRoNt

uNdERsidE oF thE FBH (FRoNt bulkhEad).

CHAPTER 5


COOLANT HOSES - REPLACE

WaRNiNg: ThE bikE must bE complEtEly cool

bEFoRE pERFoRmiNg this pRocEduRE.

1. Drain the coolant (SEctioN 1).

2. Remove the battery (ChaptER 6).

3. If replacing the FBH-to-RBH coolant hoses, remove the

controller (ChaptER 6).

4. Using a razor knife, cut through the heat-shrink clamps

on the hose(s), and detach the hose(s) from the fitting(s).

5. Install the hose barb and breather tube using P-80 Grip-

It on each end of the hose barbs. (Fig. 37)

6. Slip a screw-type hose clamp onto the hose, then slip

the fill port into the hose. The fill port will need to be

clocked so that the hole for the fastener lines up with the

threaded part in the frame. Do not tighten the hose clamp

until the other end of the hose is secured by its clamp, and

the fill port is positioned properly against the FBH. (Fig.

38)

7. Slide new heat-shrink clamps over the hoses, and attach

the hoses to the fittings. Make sure the hoses are not

distorted. Using a heat gun, heat the clamps until they

shrink tightly enough to secure the hoses. Try to twist the

hoses – you should not be able to turn them. (Fig. 39)

8. Reinstall the components that were removed. Refer to

the appropriate chapter(s) for instructions.

9. Refill the cooling system (SEctioN 1).

Fig. 37 Fig. 38

Fig.39

COOLING SYSTEM


CHAPTER 6

HIGH VOLTAGE BATTERY & DRIVE SYSTEM

The HV battery and drive system operate up to 400V

DC. The system can be “live” while the vehicle is

powered on and for up several minutes after the

vehicle is powered off.

Never assume that a connector or electrical

component is safe to handle; use a 600V-rated

multimeter to check the potential between HV

connector terminals, and between each terminal

and bare metal on the vehicle chassis or battery to

ensure that they are not “hot.” Any potential above

60V should be considered dangerous high voltage

and should not be handled without appropriate high

voltage safety gear and extreme caution. Contact

Alta Motors for further instructions.

Make sure that the run/stop switch is set to the “stop”

position before separating connectors or starting

disassembly. When the EV drive system is partially

disassembled, do not attempt to connect to AC or a

charger, and do not attempt to operate the vehicle.

It may be necessary to turn on the vehicle’s 12V

system to assist with diagnosis; be careful of loose

connections or metal parts that could cause a short

circuit and damage components.

The HV battery pack is always energized and should

not be opened for any reason. If the pack appears

physically damaged or the outer surface is breached,

contact Alta Motors immediately for handling

instructions. Please be able to provide images of the

damage in question.

Authorized Alta Motors service personnel are

authorized to disconnect the orange HV connectors

and the 3 motor lead ring terminal connections

inside the inverter. They are not authorized to make

or break any other HV electrical connections or to

open any other HV drive system components.

Before re-connecting HV drive system components,

inspect both ends of each HV connector for signs of

heat damage, bent terminals, or damaged plating,

dirt, grease, water, or any other debris. Compressed

air and isopropyl alcohol may be used to clean

connectors; allow them to dry completely before

reconnecting. If terminal plating is damaged or signs

of heat damage are present, leave the connector

unmated, and contact Alta Motors.

Whenever servicing electrical control system

components on the Redshift, wear a ground strap

on your wrist, and connect it to a ground on the

bike. Failure to do so could result in static electricity

discharge damage to the components.


HIGH VOLTAGE BATTERY AND DRIVE SYSTEM

1. Turn the key to the OFF position, and wait at

least two minutes.

2. Remove the seat and the right-side shroud

(ChaptER 2).

3. Reach through the opening in the FBH to slide the

red CPA (connector position assurance) lock up.

4. Depress the tab near the top of the connector lock

while pulling the connector upwards; the connector

will move only a couple of millimeters. You may need

to push the connector down first to free the latch.

5. Depress the black tab near the bottom of the

connector lock while pulling up; this will release the

connector from the battery.

6. Use a digital multimeter (rated for at least 600V

DC) to measure the voltage between the large plug

terminals as shown. A reading above 60V should be

considered dangerous high voltage, and should not

be handled without appropriate high voltage safety

gear and extreme caution.

WaRNiNg: DO NOT iNsERt aNythiNg othER thaN a

multimEtER pRobE iNto thE tERmiNals oF thE

coNtRollER coNNEctoR oR thE battERy coNNEctoR.

BE caREFul Not to damagE thE tERmiNals iNsidE oF

thE coNNEctoR.

7. To reconnect the battery, push the connector onto

the battery receptacle until it bottoms out, and push

the red CPA down. The CPA will only slide forward

after the connector has been fully mated.

BATTERY - HV CONNECTOR



BATTERY - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Place the bike on a lift, and secure the front wheel

in the wheel vise. Note: This job can be performed

with the bike on the sidestand or triangle, but it is

easier and safer with the bike supported upright.

2. Remove the seat, the front fender, and both side

shrouds to get access to the battery. It is possible to

remove all of the mounting bolts from the shrouds.

Splay the shrouds out, and slide them down and out of

the way without cutting the zip ties holding them on

to save time.

3. Disconnect the HV connector (SEctioN 1).

4. Disconnect the low voltage (LV) connector by

twisting the housing counterclockwise then pulling.

5. Remove the skidframe (ChaptER 7).

NotE: ThE battERy systEms wEighs oVER 30kg

(70 lbs) - oNE pERsoN should Not attEmpt to

liFt it aloNE.

NotE: FBH (FRoNt bulkhEad) REFERs to thE FRoNt

sEctioN oF thE FRamE; RBH (REaR bulkhEad) REFERs

to thE REaR sEctioN oF thE FRamE.

6. Support the battery from below with a scissor-type

lift with a flat surface or a floor jack. If a floor jack is

used, pad the jack head with a thick piece of neoprene,

a folded-up towel, or a block of wood that is the length

of the battery.

7. Remove the battery upper mounting bolts with 8mm

hex-head drives from each side (where the FBH and RBH

join). Do not mistakenly loosen the two Torx-head bolts

that are adjacent to the battery. These bolts attach the

FBH to the RBH.

8. Remove the battery lower mounting bolt from the left

side.(Fig. 1)

9. Raise the battery about 10mm, and tilt it forward to

disengage its upper hangers from the mounting pins

on the RBH. You should be able to see the hooks from

above or behind to tell whether they have disengaged.

10. Slowly lower the battery out of the chassis.

11. Cover the battery’s HV receptacle with electrical

tape to keep it clear of debris.

WaRNiNg: BE caREFul Not to damagE thE ExposEd

coNNEctoR tERmiNals

Fig. 1

CHAPTER 6


12. Remove the tape covering the HV receptacle.

Place the battery on the lift or jack and raise it into the

FBH until it almost contacts the coolant pump.

13. Tilt the top of the battery slightly forward, then

slide it to the rear until the holes in the lower mounting

brackets are above the mounting holes in the RBH.

(Fig. 2)

14. Look through the windows (A, left side shown) in

the RBH, and verify that the battery hangers are above

the mounting pins. (B) shows the mounting pins from

the front (components removed for clarity). Move the

battery to the rear until the battery hangers are over

the pins.

15. Lower the lift or jack, and inspect the battery again

to ensure that the hangers have engaged correctly.

Apply Loctite 243 to the battery lower mounting bolt,

and “rock” the battery to align the lower mounting

brackets with the RBH mounting hole, and install the

bolt through the left mounting bracket. Tighten the bolt

to 48 Nm. (Fig. 3) CautioN: MakE suRE thE bREathER

hosE aNd wiREs aRE RoutEd bEhiNd thE bolt.

16. Install the battery upper mounting bolts and

washers, and tighten them to 48 Nm. Note: Do not use

Loctite on these bolts.

17. Install the skidframe (ChaptER 7).

18. Reconnect the circular connector to the top left

side of the battery by turning the collar clockwise until

it has been fully seated.

19. Reconnect the battery high-voltage cable, and

secure the connector (SEctioN 1).

20. Install the shrouds, the front fender, and seat

(ChaptER 2).

Fig. 2

Fig. 3



HIGH VOLTAGE DRIVE SYSTEM

CHARGE INLET -


1. Remove the seat and the left- and right-side shrouds

(ChaptER 2).

2. Remove the Charge Port Shroud mounting bolts.

3. Lift the Charge Port Shroud up, and remove the

screws that attach the DC charge port terminal retainer

to the Charge Port Shroud. On Redshift MX models it

is easiest to remove the 4 bolts on the bottom side of

the Charge Port Shroud to release the terminal. On

Redshift SM models this would be done with the 6

bolts at the top of the charge port terminal.


the Charge Port Shroud mounting bolts to the

specified torque.

5. Install the shrouds and seat (ChaptER 2).

CHAPTER 6


ACCESSORY CONTROL MODULE (ACM) -



(ChaptER 2).

2. Remove the battery (SEctioN 2).

3. Remove the Charge Port Shroud. The Charge Port

Shroud rear screws secure the rear of the ACM as well.

4. Swing open the connector lock levers. (Fig. 4)

5. Remove the plug from the top of the ACM. (Fig. 5)

6. Remove the remaining ACM mounting screws.

7. Move the ACM forward and disconnect

the connectors.

8. Make sure the connector seal on the main harness

connector is seated properly (A) and has not shifted

on the connector body. Note: After installing the

plug into the ACM, the harness seal should not be

visible. If it is visible, the seal has spun and needs to

be repositioned.

9. Maneuver the ACM into position and connect the

main harness electrical connector. Swing the

connector lock levers shut, and make sure it clicks

into place. Reinstall the plug into the top of the ACM.

(Fig. 6)

10. Line-up the holes, and install the ACM forward

mounting screws. Make sure the rear screw holes

are aligned as well, and tighten the forward screws

to 8 Nm.

11. Install the Charge Port Shroud (SEctioN 3).

12. Install the battery (SEctioN 2).

13. Install the shrouds and the seat (ChaptER 2).

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 6



MOTOR CONTROLLER -



(ChaptER 2).


3. Drain the coolant (ChaptER 5).

4. Remove the subframe (ChaptER 2) and the rear

shock absorber (ChaptER 4).

5. Remove the timing cover (SEctioN 9) and the screw,

and detach the ground wire. (Fig. 7)

6. Disconnect the orange HV connector from the DC

Charge Port (SEctioN 6). Also disconnect the LV

connector on the motor controller cover by pulling the

yellow tab away from the plug.

7. Cut the zip-ties and free the vent hose and wiring

harness from the controller cover. Note how the hose

and harness are routed.

8. Pull the red U-shaped lock out from the LV receptacle

by pressing down on both ends of the ‘U’ with equal

pressure. Loosen the 11 cover screws a little at a time in

a criss-cross pattern, and remove them. Remove the

cover. Separate the receptacle housing from the cover,

and set the cover aside. (Fig. 8)

9. Remove the nuts; cut the zip ties; disconnect the

motor wires from the controller terminals (A). Note

what color ring terminal is mated to what post. Also

disconnect the temp sensor (B) and position sensor

(C). Feed all wires through the wire passage in the

RBH including the ground strap from the timing cover

side. (Fig. 9)

10. From the back of the RBH, loosen the 6 motor

controller mounting bolts a little at a time in a criss-

cross pattern, and then remove them. (Fig. 10)

11. Separate the controller from the RBH using one

hand to guide the loose wiring through the wire

passage. Be prepared for some coolant to spill out.

12. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the

coolant passage and wire passage. Caution: Be careful

not to scratch the mating surfaces – a coolant leak

could result. Follow up by cleaning the wires and

mating surface with isopropyl alcohol and allowing it

to dry.

CHAPTER 6


Fig. 34Fig. 9

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

Fig. 10



13. Install a new gasket (PN 3500035-01) on the

motor controller, and make sure all of the bolt holes

line up. Note: The gasket can be held in place with a

dedicated gasket cement for installation purposes,

but do not use RTV sealant. (Fig. 11)

14. Apply a strip of butyl sealant (part no. 3501917-00)

around the wire passage on the back of the motor

controller and trim it to fit cleanly with no gap. (Fig. 12)

NotE: INstall thE bEad oF butyl with thE NaRRow

sidE agaiNst thE suRFacE.

15. Feed the loose wiring back through the wire

passage. Guide the controller into place, and mate it

against the RBH. Be accurate with the placement of

SAFETY CRITICAL ASSEMBLY: MakiNg thE 3 motoR

RiNg tERmiNal coNNEctioNs aNd RE-sEaliNg thE

iNVERtER may oNly bE pERFoRmEd by a tRaiNEd

tEchNiciaN usiNg oNly Alta MotoRs-appRoVEd,

calibRatEd tools aNd Alta MotoRs-pRoVidEd paRts.

FailuRE to Follow assEmbly iNstRuctioNs pRoVidEd

by Alta MotoRs may REsult iN iNcREasEd Risk oF a

VEhiclE FiRE aNd pERsoNal iNjuRy oR dEath. Alta

will hold thE sERVicE cENtER liablE FoR aNy damagE

oR iNjuRy that REsults FRom a FailuRE to comply

with thEsE iNstRuctioNs.

Fig. 11

Fig. 12

CHAPTER 6


the controller; excess movement can displace the

butyl sealant. Loosely attach a few of the fasteners to

hold it in place.

16. Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the bolts, and

install them by tightening them a little at a time in the

sequence shown to 10 Nm. It is ok to let the excess

butyl squish out as the controller is mated to the RBH.

If absolutely necessary to feed the wires through,

cutting the butyl with a scalpel is possible. The butyl

does not peel away from itself easily, so if you attempt

to pull a section of it away with fingers or pliers it will

most likely pull the entire piece out. Do not try to pull

butyl away without cutting it first.

17. Thread the ground wire through the passage.

Install the screw (A), and tighten it to 5 Nm. Make sure

the insulator material (B, part no. 4401925) around

the passage to the timing cover surface is in good

condition; if not, replace it. (Fig. 13)

18. Feed the wiring harnesses for the thermistor and

the position sensor through the wire passage, and

then feed the Motor wires through as they are stiffer

and have bigger connectors. Clean the wire and bus

bar terminals with Isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip.

Fig. 13



19. Apply four equally spaced drops of Penetrox

around each terminal stud on the bus bar. (Fig. 14)

20. Starting with the green motor lead, attach the

ring terminal on the right terminal stud (left as you’re

looking at it). Place a flat washer (part no. 2901674), a

Belleville washer (concave side facing the controller),

and the nut on the stud.

21. Secure the ziptie, and tighten the nut to 3.5 Nm.

22. Repeat Steps 20 and 21 for the red motor lead

(center) and black motor lead (left). (Fig. 15)

23. Plug in the connectors for the thermistor (A)

and the position sensor (B). Make sure they click

into place. (Fig. 16)

24. Check the condition of the insulator on the back of

the motor controller cover, and replace it if necessary

(PN 2102306-00). Affix the insulator to the cover with

three pieces of double-sided tape. (Fig. 17)

25. Feed the LV connector receptacle back through

the cover, and insert the U-lock to lock into place.

26. Install the cover and tighten the screws in the

sequence indicated to 2 Nm. Apply Loctite 243.

These screws are one-time use, self-sealing fasteners

that must be discarded once removed and replaced

with new screws.

Fig. 15Fig. 14

Fig. 17Fig. 16

CHAPTER 6


27. Make sure the Gore vent is securely seated in the

controller cover. (Fig. 18)

28. Route the vent hose and wiring harnesses over the

motor controller and secure it with new zip-ties. Trim the

zip-ties with flush cutters. (Fig. 19)

29. Install the timing cover (SEctioN 9).

30. Reconnect the orange HV connector to the DC

Charge port (SEctioN 6). Also reconnect the LV connector

on the controller cover.

31. Install the rear shock absorber (ChaptER 4) and

the subframe (ChaptER 2).


33. Install the left- and right-side shrouds and the

seat (ChaptER 2).

34. Refill the cooling system (ChaptER 5).

Fig. 18

Fig. 19



DC CHARGE PORT (DCCP) -



(ChaptER 2).


3. Remove the Charge Port Shroud (SEctioN 3).

4. Push the coolant filler and hose aside. Pull up the

connector lock, and disconnect the electrical connector

from the top of the DCCP. (Fig. 20)

5. Remove the rubber plug from the FBH just behind

the steering stop boss. (Fig. 21)

6. Remove the nuts securing the coolant pump (they

are threaded onto the DCCP rear studs) (A, left-side

nut shown) and the nut from the DCCP front mounting

Fig. 20 Fig. 21

Fig. 23Fig. 22

stud in the recess in the FBH(B). Please be careful not

to drop the nut into the head tube cavity as it will be

difficult to remove. (Fig. 22)

7. Disconnect the HV and connectors (A) from the

back of the DCCP (B). Reposition the coolant hose(C),

and remove the DCCP. (Fig. 23)


the DCCP mounting nuts to the specified torque.

9. Install the Charge Port Shroud (SEctioN 3).

10. Reconnect the battery (SEctioN 1), and then

install the shrouds and the seat (ChaptER 2).

CHAPTER 6


PRIMARY DRIVE SPROCKET -


1. Support the bike on a pit stand or a lift.

2. Remove the left-side boot guard (ChaptER 7). (Fig. 24)

3. Have an assistant apply the rear brake to prevent the

wheel from turning, and loosen the chain sprocket bolt.

4. Remove the chain (ChaptER 4).

5. Remove the bolt and washer, and then slide the

sprocket off the output shaft.

6. Clean the splines on the output shaft (and sprocket,

if the same one is being installed).

7. Check the output shaft seal for leakage; if necessary,

replace the seal (SEctioN 8).

8. Lightly lubricate the output shaft splines with

multi-purpose grease; then install the sprocket onto

the shaft flush face outward. (Fig. 25)

9. Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the bolt, and

install the bolt and washer.

10. If you have access to a sprocket holder, install it to

prevent the sprocket from turning as the bolt is

tightened. If not, install the chain and apply the rear

brake to prevent rotation. (Fig. 26)

11. Tighten the bolt to 60 Nm.

12. Install the chain, if it has not been already

(ChaptER 4). Adjust if necessary.

13. Install the boot guard (ChaptER 4).

Fig. 24

Fig. 25

Fig. 26

MOTOR & DRIVETRAIN



OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL - REPLACEMENT

1. Drain Oil

2. Remove the primary drive sprocket (SEctioN 7).

(Fig. 27)

3. Remove the sleeve from the output shaft.

4. Carefully pry the seal out of its bore with a seal

removal tool or a screwdriver.

CautioN: BE caREFul Not to scRatch thE boRE.

5. Lubricate the lip of the new seal with multi-purpose

grease. Next install the seal in its bore, and tap it in

until it is flush with a seal driver or socket with a

diameter slightly smaller than that of the seal.

6. Install the sleeve onto the output shaft and into the

seal. Make sure the lips of the seal do not fold under or

become distorted. (Fig. 28)

7. Install the primary drive sprocket (SEctioN 7).

Fig. 27 Fig. 28

CHAPTER 6


TIMING COVER -


POSITION SENSOR -



2. Remove the left-side boot guard (ChaptER 7) and

the drive chain (ChaptER 4).

3. Loosen the timing cover bolts a little at a time, and

then remove them and the cover from the RBH.

4. Clean the mating surfaces of the RBH and timing cover.

Remove all traces of old gasket material. Follow up by

cleaning the mating surfaces with brake system cleaner.

5. Place a new gasket (PN 3501460-02) against the

mating surface on the RBH.

NotE: ThE gaskEt caN bE hEld iN placE with a

dEdicatEd gaskEt cEmENt FoR iNstallatioN

puRposEs, but do Not usE RTV sEalaNt.

6. Install the timing cover bolts (except the lower one

by the primary sprocket). Tighten the bolts a little at a

time in the sequence shown to 10 Nm with Loctite 243.

7. Install the remaining bolt and tighten it to 7 Nm

with Loctite 243.

8. Install the drive chain and the left-side boot guard

(ChaptER 4).

1. Remove the timing cover (SEctioN 9).

2. Unplug the electrical connector (A), and then

remove the position sensor screws (B). Detach the

sensor from the motor.

3. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the

sensor screws to 3 Nm.

Fig. 27



Fig. 28

Fig. 29 Fig. 31

Fig. 30

CHAPTER 6


GEARBOX COVER -


1. Place a drain pan under the bike, and unscrew the

gearbox drain plug from the front lower side of the

RBH. Allow the lubricant to drain. After the flow of

lubricant slows, tilt the bike upright, and allow the

remaining lubricant to drain. Reinstall the drain plug

with a new O-ring and tighten it to the specified

torque. (Fig. 28)


3. Unbolt the right-side boot guard (ChaptER 7), and

support it out of the way, along with the rear brake

master cylinder.

CautioN: DoN’t lEt it haNg by thE bRakE hosE.

4. Loosen the gearbox cover bolts a little at a time,

and then remove them and detach the cover from the

RBH. More oil will spill out with the removal of a

cover; make sure to plan accordingly.

5. Clean the mating surfaces of the RBH and gearbox

cover. Remove all traces of old gasket material.

Follow up by cleaning the mating surfaces with brake

system cleaner.

6. Place a new gasket (PN 3501459-00) against the

mating surface on the RBH.

NotE: ThE gaskEt caN bE hEld iN placE with a

dEdicatEd gaskEt cEmENt FoR iNstallatioN

puRposEs, but do Not usE RTV sEalaNt. (Fig. 29)

7. Install the gearbox cover bolts. Tighten the bolts a

little at a time in the sequence shown to 10 Nm with

Loctite 243. (Fig. 30)

8. Remove the fill plug from the gearbox cover. Using

a syringe filled with the specified type and quantity of

gear lubricant, add lubricant through the hole. Set the

bike upright, and check the lubricant level in the sight

glass. Add fluid if necessary. (Fig. 31)

NotE: StaRt with thE amouNt at thE lowER ENd oF

thE REcommENdEd capacity so as Not to oVERFill

thE gEaRbox.

9. Install the fill plug, and tighten it to 3 Nm.

10. Install the right-side boot guard with master

cylinder (ChaptER 7).



DRIVE & DRIVEN GEARS -


1. Remove the gearbox cover (SEctioN 11).

2. Remove the left boot guard (ChaptER 7).

3. If the tool is available, remove the drive chain

(ChaptER 4) and the primary drive sprocket (SEctioN 7),

and attach holding tool to the output shaft. If the tool is

not available, leave the drive chain in place, and have

an assistant prevent the rear wheel from turning during

the loosening/tightening steps. (Fig. 32)

4. Loosen the drive gear bolt (A) or driven gear nut

(B) as required. Remove the fastener, and then slide

the gear off the motor output shaft or countershaft.

Removal of the drive gear bolt and driven gear nut

should be done with the Alta Motors special tool.

Use of this tool requires removal of the Skidframe.

(Fig. 33)

Fig. 32 Fig. 33

CHAPTER 6


5. Place the gear on the correct shaft, with the flange

facing inwards. (Fig. 34 & 35)

6. Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the countershaft

or the threads of the bolt, and then install the washer

and nut (driven gear washer) or the washer and bolt

(drive gear) in the direction indicated. Tighten the

drive gear nut to 95 Nm. Tighten the driven gear bolt

to 31 Nm.

7. Install the gearbox cover (SEctioN 11).

8. If installed, remove the output shaft holding tool,

and install primary drive sprocket (SEctioN 7) and the

drive chain (ChaptER 4).

9. Install the boot guard (ChaptER 7).

10. Fill the gearbox with the proper type and quantity

of lubricant (SEctioN 11).

Fig. 34 Fig. 35



MOTOR & OUTPUT SHAFT -



2. Drain the coolant (ChaptER 5).

3. Drain the gear lubricant, and remove the gearbox

cover (SEctioN 11).

4. Remove the timing cover (SEctioN 9). Unplug the

connector from the position sensor, and then remove

the position sensor (SEctioN 10).

5. Remove the primary drive sprocket and sleeve

(SEctioNs 7 aNd 8).

6. Remove the cover from the controller, and detach

the motor leads and the temp sensor connector from

the controller terminals (SEctioN 5). Remove the

position sensor lead.

7. Pull the motor leads and the thermistor harness

through the controller passage and out from the left

side of the RBH.

8. Remove primary gears.

9. Remove the ten screws securing the motor/output

shaft plate to the RBH.

10. Working from the left side of the bike, push the motor

and countershaft out through the right side of the RBH. If

necessary, use a soft-face mallet to tap on the output shaft

and the motor housing to free it from the RBH.

CautioN: DoN’t tap oN thE motoR output shaFt – oNly

oN thE motoR housiNg. CoolaNt may spill out duRiNg

this stEp.

CHAPTER 6


11. Once the assembly has been removed, pull the

spring pins from their bores on the right side of the

RBH at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions (if they

did not come out with the motor assembly).

12. Thoroughly clean the inside of the RBH to remove

any corrosion or build-up. Follow up with brake system

cleaner to remove any residue.

13. If the same motor is to be installed, remove

the O-rings from the motor, and clean the outer

jacket sur face.

14. Remove the output shaft seal from the left side

of the RBH.

15. Install two new O-rings to the seal grooves on the

motor case.

16. Lubricate the O-rings with P-80 Grip-It.

17. Feed the motor leads and thermistor harness into

the RBH. Align the motor and output shaft assembly

as closely as possible, and guide into the RBH by hand

as far as it will go. (Fig. 36)

Tip: UsE a FiNgER thRough thE holE oN thE LH sidE

to guidE thE motoR thRough.

18. Use the Alta Motors press tool to finish motor

assembly insertion. (Fig. 37)

Fig. 36 Fig. 37



19. Make sure the spring pin holes in the motor plate

are aligned with their corresponding holes in the RBH.

(Fig. 38)

CautioN: This is impoRtaNt Not oNly FoR pRopER

aligNmENt oF thE bolt holEs, but FoR pRopER

output shaFt aligNmENt.

20. Tap the spring pins into the holes at the 12 o’clock

and 6 o’clock positions. Knock them straight in until

they are flush. (Fig. 39)

21. Tighten the bolts and screws in the sequence

shown to the specified torque. Note that the torque

Fig. 38

setting for the screws (9, 10) is 2 Nm,while the rest are

4 Nm. All require Loctite 243.

22. Install the oil door (if not already installed), and

tighten the screws to 2 Nm with Loctite 243. (Fig. 40)

23. Lubricate the countershaft bearing with the

specified gear lubricant.

24. Install gears (SEctioN 12)

Fig. 39

CHAPTER 6


25. Install the gearbox cover (SEctioN 11).

26. Route the motor leads and thermistor harness

through the passage in the left side of the RBH then

through the controller passage. Connect the motor

and thermistor leads to the controller, and install the

controller cover (SEctioN 5).

27. Plug in the electrical connector to the position

sensor (SEctioN 10).

28. Install the timing cover (SEctioN 9).

29. Install the output shaft seal and sleeve (SEctioN 8)

Fig. 40

30. Install the primary drive sprocket (SEctioN 7).

31. Install the drive chain (ChaptER 4).

32. Install the right and left-side boot guards

(ChaptER 7).

33. Refill the gearbox with the specified lubricant

(SEctioN 11).

34. Refill the cooling system (ChaptER 5).




COUNTERSHAFT BEARINGS

RIGHT-SIDE BEARING

1. Remove the motor and output shaft assembly

(SEctioN 13).

2. Mount the motor/output shaft assembly on a hydraulic

or arbor press using the proper adapters; with the output

shaft facing down, press the countershaft and bearing

from the motor plate. Note: Alternatively, a two-jaw

puller can be used to push the output shaft and bearing

from the motor plate.

3. Assemble a bearing splitter underneath the right-side

countershaft bearing, then mount the shaft and splitter

on the press, and push the shaft through the bearing.

CautioN: BE suRE to suppoRt thE shaFt with oNE

haNd whilE doiNg this – do Not lEt thE shaFt Fall.

4. Clean the mating surfaces of the countershaft to

remove any burrs or raised edges before sliding the new

bearing onto the output shaft. using the proper adapters,

Fig. 41 Fig. 42

press the bearing onto the shaft until it is fully seated

against the shaft’s collar.

CautioN: MakE suRE thE adaptER oNly coNtacts

thE iNNER RacE oF thE bEaRiNg. (Fig. 41)

5. Remove the old O-ring from the countershaft.

Lubricate the new O-ring with multi-purpose grease,

and install it onto the splined end of the countershaft.

6. Place the motor and motor plate onto the nest

fixture, and then set the countershaft into position on

the motor plate. Using the proper adapter, press the

shaft and bearing into the motor plate until the

bearing is seated. (Fig. 42)

7. If replacing the left-side countershaft bearing, proceed

to the next step. If not, reinstall the motor and output shaft

to the RBH.

CHAPTER 6


LEFT-SIDE BEARING

8. Remove the motor and countershaft assembly if it

has not been already (SEctioN 13).

9. Remove the countershaft seal from the left side of

the RBH (SEctioN 8).

10. Remove the snap-ring from the seal/bearing bore.

11. Remove the bearing from the bore with a slide

hammer and puller attachment. Alternatively, drive it

out from the right to the left with a hammer and long

drift. If the latter method is used, work slowly, working

around the circumference of the bearing a little at a

time so as not to distort the bore in the RBH.

12. Clean the bearing bore, and drive the new bearing

into place with a bearing driver until it is seated.

13. Lubricate the bearing with the specified gear oil.

14. Install the snap-ring, making sure it is fully seated.

16. Install the countershaft seal (SEctioN 8), motor and

countershaft assembly (SEctioN 13).



CHAPTER 7

FRAME

SKIDFRAME -


1. Support the bike with a triangle (Redshift MX) or on

its sidestand (Redshift SM).

2. Remove the bolts securing the skidframe struts to

the RBH. (Fig. 1)

3. Remove the skidframe-to-FBH mounting bolts.

(Fig. 2)

4. Loosen the skidframe-to-RBH clamp bolts. Remove

the clamp bolts and clamps, and detach the skidframe.

On some early production machines there are two Half-

Moon shaped washers between the skidframe and the

Front Bulkhead (any machine with a vin lower than

B000052 might have this feature) Retrieve the half-

moon-shaped adapters from the skidframe-to-FBH

mounting points and note their fit. (Fig. 3)

5. If a strut is damaged or if the skidframe is being

replaced but the strut(s) is/are in good shape, remove

the snap-ring, and slide the knuckle pin out before

detaching the strut from the skidframe. (Fig. 4 & 5)

6. Position the skidframe on the RBH, and install the

clamps and bolts. Do not tighten the bolts yet.

NotE: INstall thEsE bolts dRy – No LoctitE oR gREasE.

7. Install the washers on the skidframe-to-FBH bolts,

and lightly lubricate the threads of the bolts with multi-

purpose grease. Swing the skidframe up into position,

and if applicable (see Step 4), place the half-moon-

shaped adapters between the skidframe and the FBH,

and install the bolts. Do not tighten the bolts yet. If the

machine does not have the half-moon shaped adapters,

install the bolts. Do not tighten them yet.

8. If detached, reconnect the struts to the skidframe,

and install the knuckle pins and snap-rings.

9. Lubricate the threads of the strut-to-RBH bolts with

a light film of multi-purpose grease or light coating of

anti-seize. Position the struts against the RBH, and

install the bolts. Do not tighten them yet.

10. Evenly tighten the skidframe mounting bolts to

48 Nm in the following order, a little at a time, there

should be no gap visible:

• Skidframe-to-FBH bolts.

• Strut-to-RBH bolts.

• Skidframe-to-RBH clamp bolts (lower mounting bolts).


FRAME

Fig. 2Fig. 1

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 3


BOOT GUARDS -


RIGHT BOOT GUARD LEFT BOOT GUARD / SPROCKET COVER

1. Remove the master cylinder; leave it attached to

the pedal. Remove the adjuster cam.

2. Remove the guard-to-RBH bolts (D), and detach

the guard.

3. To install, reverse the removal procedure, and

note the following:

• Apply Loctite 243 to the boot guard mounting

bolts, and tighten them to 20 Nm.

• Refer to Chapter 3 for master cylinder and brake

pedal installation details and torque specifications.

4. Loosen the boot guard-to-swingarm pivot bolt pinch

bolt (A).

5. Remove the boot guard mounting bolts (B), and

slide the guard off the swingarm pivot bolt.


note the following:

• Clean the end of the swingarm pivot bolt, and apply a

light film of lithium-based lubricant to the surface.

• Apply Loctite 243 to the boot guard mounting bolts

and pinch bolt, before tightening them to 10 Nm.

CHAPTER 7


FOOTPEGS -


1. Bend the cotter pin straight, and pull it out of the

footpeg pivot pin. Retrieve the washer. (Fig. 6)

2. Apply a gentle inward and slightly upward force on the

footpeg to slide out the pivot pin. Remove the peg from

the mount, and be sure to note how the spring is

arranged. (Fig. 7)

3. Unscrew the peg mount-to-skidframe bolts (or

sidestand mount bolts if removing the left peg mount

on a Redshift SM model), and remove the mount.


note the following:

• Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the footpeg

mounting bolts, and place the mount against the

skidframe . Install the bolts, and tighten them to 34

Nm.

• Slide the spring onto the boss of the peg with the

longer hooked end over the top of the peg.

• Position the peg in the mount, and then insert the

pivot pin through the mount and peg. Place the

washer over the end of the pin, and push a new

cotter pin through the hole in the pin.

NotE: DoN’t lubRicatE thE piN – it’ll accumulatE

diRt/gRit aNd accElERatE wEaR.

• Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the pivot

pin. If necessary, cut off any excess with diagonal

cutting pliers. (Fig. 8)

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

FRAME


SIDESTAND - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Unplug the electrical connector from the

sidestand switch.

2. Remove the left-side footpeg (SEctioN 4).

3. Remove the sidestand-to-skidframe mounting

bolts, and detach the sidestand from the skidframe.

(Fig. 9)

4. To install, reverse the removal procedure, and note

the following:

• Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the sidestand

mounting bolts, and place the sidestand against

the skidframe. Install the bolts, and tighten them

to 34 Nm.

• Install the footpeg (SEctioN 4). (Fig. 10)

• Reconnect the electrical connector.

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

CHAPTER 7


BULKHEAD -

GENERAL INFORMATION / SERVICING

1. The front bulkhead (FBH) and rear bulkhead (RBH)

comprise the structural “frame” of the Redshift. The

most likely failure modes for these members are

cracking due to a high-energy crash, or destabilization

when a threaded insert has been stripped.

2. Damaged internally-threaded inserts can be driven

out of the RBH with a hammer and punch. The new

insert can be pulled into place with a drawbolt-type

bushing installer or a lever-action insert installer.

(Fig. 11 & 12)

3. Externally threaded inserts (like the battery locating

pins) will have to be unscrewed from the bulkhead.

When installing these components, apply Loctite 243

to the threads, and tighten the insert to 15 Nm.

4. In the event that separation of the FBH and RBH

becomes necessary, all components attached to the

frame will have to be removed. The bolts joining

the two sections of the bulkhead will have to be

removed. At this point, the FBH and RBH can be

detached from each other. Refer to the appropriate

chapter for individual component removal,

installation, or replacement.

5. When joining the two sections of the bulkhead, the

gap between them must be non existent on both sides.

Apply Loctite 243 to the bolts, and install the bolts and

washers. Tighten the bolts to 48 Nm. (Fig. 13)

Fig. 13

Fig. 11

Fig. 12

FRAME


LOW VOLTAGE ELECTRICAL

DISPLAY - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

MX SM

1. Remove the number plate (ChaptER 2).

2. Cut the zip-ties (A) that bundle the harnesses

together.Follow the dash harness to its electrical

connector, and unplug the connector (B) from the

main harness.

3. Cut the zip-ties securing the crash pad, and

separate the assembly from the handlebar.

4. Remove the screws and washers from the

underside of the crash pad, and separate the display

from the pad.

5. Install four new zip-ties through the holes in the

crash pad.

6. Set the display into the crash pad, and feed the

wiring through the hole in the center of the pad.

7. Place two washers into the holes in the underside of

the crash pad, and install the screws. Tighten them to

4 Nm. (Fig. 1)

8. Place the dash and crash pad over the handlebar

clamps, and route the zip-ties under the bars.

9. Tighten the zip-ties securely, and trim them with flush

cutters. (Fig. 2)

10. Plug in the electrical connector, and secure the

harnesses with zip-ties.

11. Install the number plate.

12. Remove the number plate/headlight housing

(SEctioN 10).

13. Cut the zip-ties (A) that bundle the harnesses

together. Follow the dash harness to its electrical

connector, and unplug the connector (B) from the

main harness.

14. Remove the dash mounting screws and washers,

and detach the dash from its bracket. (Fig. 3)


the following points:

• Install the screws/washers, tightening them to 4 Nm.

• Install the number plate/headlight housing

(SEctioN 10).

CHAPTER 8


Fig. 1

Fig. 2 Fig. 3



START/STOP/RUN SWITCH -


1. Remove the number plate (Redshift MX models –

ChaptER 2) or number plate/headlight housing

(Redshift SM models, SEctioN 11).

2. Cut the zip-ties that bundle the harnesses together.

Follow the start/stop/run switch harness to its

electrical connector, and unplug the connector from

the main harness.

3. Cut the zip-ties that secure the switch harness to

the handlebar.

4. Remove the screws that secure the switch halves.

Spread open the switch, and remove it from the bar.



• Position the switch 150 mm from the end of

the handlebar.

• Tighten the switch screws to 1.5 Nm.

• Secure the wiring harness to the handlebar with

new zip-ties and re-zip tie the harness in a loop

behind the number plate. Trim the zip-ties with

flush-cutters. NotE: KEEp thE wiREs RoutEd

aloNg thE uNdERsidE oF thE haNdlEbaR.

• Install the number plate (Redshift MX models, ChaptER

2) or number plate/headlight housing (Redshift SM,

SEctioN 11).

CHAPTER 8


MAP SWITCH -


1. Remove the number plate (Redshift MX models –


(Redshift SM models, SEctioN 11).

2. Cut the zip-ties that bundle the harnesses

together. Follow the map switch harness to its

electrical connector, and unplug the connector from

the main harness.


the handlebar.




note the following:

• Make sure the switch is oriented with the arrow on

the switch housing pointing UP.

• Position the switch 130 mm (Redshift MX

models)/180 mm (Redshift SM models) from the

end of the handlebar.



new zip-ties. Note: Keep the wires routed along

the underside of the handlebar. Trim the zip-ties

with flush-cutters.

• Install the number plate (Redshift MX models,


(Redshift SM, SEctioN 11).



TURN SIGNAL / HORN / HI-LO BEAM

SWITCH - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


(SEctioN 10).

2. Cut the zip-ties that bundle the harnesses together,

and then follow the switch harness to its electrical

connector. Unplug the connector from the main harness.


the handlebar.




the following:

• Position the switch 130 mm from the end of

the handlebar.



new zip-ties. Secure the harness in a loop under the

number plate. Note: Keep the wires routed along

the underside of the handlebar. Trim the zip-ties

with flush-cutters.


(SEctioN 10).

IGNITION SWITCH -


1. Remove the seat (ChaptER 2), and the Charge Port

Shroud (ChaptER 6).

2. Remove the retaining clip, and pull the switch and

wiring harness from the Charge Port Shroud.

WaRNiNg: this clip caN bE VERy diFFicult to

REmoVE. BE caREFul.

3. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Make

sure the retaining clip is securely pushed into place.

CHAPTER 8


THROTTLE SWITCH / TUBE -


1. Remove the key from the ignition switch.


(SEctioN 10).

3. Cut the zip-ties that bundle the harnesses together,

and follow the switch harness to its electrical connector.

Unplug the connector from the main harness.


the handlebar.

5. Loosen the throttle switch screw and slide the

throttle tube/switch off the handlebar. There are two

screws that bolt the throttle housing halves together,

and one single screw that releases the housing from

the bar.

6. To install, reverse the removal procedure, noting

the following:

• Slide the switch/throttle tube onto the handlebar,

leaving a 5 mm gap between the throttle switch and

the Start/Stop/Run switch. The chamfer on the end

of the throttle tube should be positioned just inward

of the end of the handlebar (approximately 1 mm). If

the placement of the throttle isn’t correct relative to

the brake master cylinder, the lever operation will

be blocked and thus create a large safety concern.

Always check the brake lever functionality after

installing the throttle.

• Tighten the switch screw to 2 Nm.


new zip-ties. Note: Keep the wires routed along the

underside of the handlebar. Trim the zip-ties with

flush cutters.


(SEctioN 10).

• Install a new grip if necessary, such as if it has

been removed or a new throttle switch/tube is

being installed.



BRAKE LIGHT SWITCHES -


FRONT REAR


(SEctioN 10).

2. Cut the zip-ties that bundle the harnesses together.

Follow the switch harness to its electrical connector,

and unplug the connector from the main harness.


the handlebar.

4. Carefully pry the switch from the brake lever perch.

(Fig. 4)


the following:

• Before pushing the switch barb into the lever

perch, pull the brake lever in.


new zip-ties. Note: Keep the wires routed along the

underside of the handlebar. Trim the zip-ties with

flush cutters.


(SEctioN 10).

6. Unplug the rear brake light switch electrical

connector from under the bike (forward of the right-

side skidframe-to-rear bulkhead mount). (Fig. 5)

7. Break loose the rear brake light switch/banjo bolt

from the rear brake master cylinder. (Fig. 6)

8. Cut the zip-tie securing the harness to the rear

bulkhead, and pull the wiring harness and connector

through. (Fig. 7) (ChaptER 3).

NotE: uNboltiNg thE REaR bRakE mastER cyliNdER FRom

thE boot guaRd will giVE you moRE woRkiNg Room

9. Unscrew the switch from the rear brake master

cylinder and retrieve the two sealing washers. Note:

Replace these sealing washers with new ones when

installing the switch. (Fig. 8 & 9)


the following:

• Thread the switch into the rear brake master cylinder

using new sealing washers on either side of the

brake hose fitting.

• Guide the brake light switch harness into position,

and plug in the electrical connector. Secure the

harness with a new zip-tie.

• Reinstall the rear brake master cylinder if it was

removed (ChaptER 3).

• Bleed the rear brake hydraulic system (ChaptER 3).

CautioN: BRakE Fluid caN damagE paiNt aNd somE

plastic suRFacEs. Wash oFF aNy spillEd bRakE Fluid

with watER.

CHAPTER 8


Fig. 8 Fig. 9

Fig. 4 Fig. 5

Fig. 6 Fig. 7



HORN - REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONSIDESTAND SWITCH -

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION1. Remove the number plate/headlight housing

(SEctioN 10).

2. Remove the mounting bolt, and detach the horn

from the upper triple clamp.

3. Follow the horn wiring harness to its electrical

connector, and unplug the connector.

4. Cut any zip-ties securing the horn wiring harness,

and remove the horn.

5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Torque the horn mounting screw to 10 Nm, and apply

Loctite 243.

1. Remove the battery (ChaptER 6).

2. Follow the harness from the sidestand switch to its

electrical connector, and unplug it.

3. Cut the zip-ties securing the sidestand harness to

the main harness and to the skidframe.Remove the

screws, and detach the switch from the skidframe.

4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Apply Loctite 243 and torque switch mounting screws

to 2 Nm.

CHAPTER 8


HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT

HEADLIGHT HOUSING -

REMOVAL & BULB REPLACEMENT

7. The headlight aim can be adjusted vertically by

turning the screw directly below the headlight lens.

Turning the screw clockwise will raise the beam; turning

the screw counterclockwise will lower the beam.

CautioN: ThE hEadlight bulb is FillEd with

pREssuRizEd halogEN gas. BE caREFul Not to scRatch

it oR dRop it. Do Not touch thE bulb – thE oil FRom

youR skiN will causE it to oVERhEat aNd Fail

pREmatuREly. IF you do touch it, wipE it clEaN with

a Rag soakEd with RubbiNg alcohol.

1. Remove the number plate/headlight housing upper

bolts (A), Loosen the lower bolts (B), and rotate the

housing forward. If the housing is to be removed

completely for access to other components, remove the

lower bolts as well.

NotE: ThE bulb caN bE REplacEd without complEtEly

REmoViNg thE housiNg, but FoR claRity iN thE

FollowiNg photogRaphs, it has bEEN REmoVEd.

Fig. 5

Fig. 6 Fig. 7

2. Unplug the electrical connector.

3. Peel the rubber boot off the headlight housing.

4. Unclip the wire bail from its boss on the housing

and swing it open.

5. Remove the bulb from the housing.

6. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Make

sure the wire bail is properly seated under its boss on

the headlight housing. Tighten the housing bolts to 4

Nm, and apply Loctite 243.



MARKER LIGHT TAILLIGHT

1. Remove the number plate/headlight housing upper

bolts (A), and loosen the lower bolts (B). Then rotate

the housing forward.

NotE: ThE bulb caN bE REplacEd without complEtEly

REmoViNg thE housiNg, but FoR claRity iN thE

FollowiNg photogRaphs, it has bEEN REmoVEd.

2. Pull the bulb holder from the headlight housing.

3. Pull the bulb straight out of the bulb holder, and

install the new bulb.

4. Push the bulb holder into the headlight housing until

it’s seated. Install the headlight housing, and check the

headlight alignment, and adjust it as necessary.

1. Remove the screws securing the lens, and detach

the lens from the housing.

2. Turn the bulb counterclockwise to release its

retaining projections.

3. To install, align the projections on the bulb with the

slots in the housing. Push in, and turn the bulb

clockwise to lock it into place. Note that the projections

are staggered – the bulb will only fit one way.

4. Reinstall the lens and retaining screws, and torque

them to 1 Nm after applying Loctite 243.

CHAPTER 8


TURN SIGNALS / RUNNING LIGHTS -

BULB REPLACEMENT

1. Remove the screw securing the lens, and swing the

outer end of the lens away from the housing before

detaching it. Be careful not to snap off the retaining

tang on the other end of the lens.

2. Turn the bulb counterclockwise to release its

retaining projections.

3. To install, align the projections on the bulb with the

slots in the housing. Push in, and then turn the bulb

clockwise to lock it into place.

4. Reinstall the lens and retaining screw.

LICENSE PLATE LIGHT

1. Remove the screws, and detach the LED unit from

the license plate bracket.

2. Remove the taillight/license plate light housing

screws, and detach it from the taillight support.

3. Pull the tail light retainer out for access to the

electrical connectors. Unplug the connector for the

license plate light.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the

fasteners to their specified torque values.



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