February 2015

INSIDE 30 pages (max 6000 words)

East Bali

The Emerald of Bali Text: Rini Sucahyo, Photos: Doc. TAMASYA

A pioneering spirit ripples through the cobblestoned alleys of Penglipuran Village.

Four men play dominoes in front of a shrine-like Balinese traditional house. Next to them is a carving of a demon designed to frighten away evil spirits. Welcome to East Bali and discover what have been attracting well-heeled travelers and expats alike.

A visitor to Penglipuran Village would be forgiven for thinking that temples adorn every corner of its neatly cobblestoned streets and all of the spaces in between. High walls

with narrow doorways allow only the briefest views by passersby, while above the walls

are tantalizing glimpses of exquisitely carved shrines, some no larger than birdcages. However, these are in fact private residences, more properly called compounds or karang, which may house several generations of Balinese families at a time. I was clearly no longer within Bali’s most popular touristy boundaries. I’m never much into old and ancient buildings so these shrine-like houses decorated by stone carvings of many forbidding forms gave an aura of daunting mystery. But the buoyant sounds of children’s laughter as they made their way home after school and the bright welcoming smiles of the villagers transformed what had seemed like a ominous ancient settlement into a happy possibility of a good time about to be had. Located in Bangli Regency, 700 meters above sea level, Penglipuran is surrounded by

lush rice fields and green countryside. The name penglipuran itself is derived from old Balinese words pengeling pura, meaning a place for remembering the ancestors; an

appropriate name for a township that insists on retaining their traditional values, including their traditional architecture and orientation where all houses are lined from

the north to the south – from the mountains to the sea. The village temple is situated on the highest point at the top of the village, signifying comforting divine protection. *****************

BOX 1:

East Bali: How to Get There

Flights: Most international flights service Bali’s Denpasar Airport or Ngurah Rai International

Airport (www.baliairport.com) daily.

Visa: Bali operates on a US$25, 30-day visa-on-arrival system, payable in multi-currency, but

US dollars or Indonesian rupiah are preferable. The queues in peak holiday seasons are unbearable so use VIP Service/VOA Service (www.voabali.com) to do the dirty work for

you. For an extra US$30 on arrival, they whisk you through the crowds to your transport of choice.

Cars: The drive northeast from the airport to East Bali takes around an hour and a half along the coast. Your hotel usually can arrange transfers. But if you haven’t booked a hotel or just are just feeling adventurous, the best way to get there (and to explore East Bali) is with a hire car. It’s also worth spending an extra US$15 a day on a driver so you can gawk and gasp as you explore the seaside villages and countryside backwaters without having to worry about dodging potholes and the occasional stray dogs.

Boats: Oddly enough, there is no regular boat service to East Bali, but you can charter your own starting from around US$500 and sailing from Sanur. Charter includes lunch, fishing and snorkeling equipment (www.enadive.co.id). Places of Interest: Most places of interest are wound together by the coastal road: inland Sidemen with its beautiful scenery and lush stepped vistas, Manggis with its boutique resorts, Tulamben, Amed and Padangbai for divine diving and snorkeling, and Candidasa, which is a long -established resort area offering accommodation options from as cheap as US$9 a night to almost-unaffordable rates.

*****************

Priceless Architecture As I meandered around and befriended more people, I started to warm up to the place

and get a sense of sweet familiarity. The residents were so accepting and their cheerful friendliness was contagious. From them I also learned a bit about Balinese traditional architecture. A Balinese home is the result of a complex interweaving of various elements designed to suggest interaction of the physical world to the spirit one. It is built considering not only economic wealth and practical social requirements of the

owners, but also caste and kinship ties with others in the neighborhood.

To begin with, Balinese compounds are surrounded by high walls and have only a single small entrance, called the angku-angku, at the side bordering the street. Entranceways

define the threshold between inside and outside, and are viewed ambivalently by the Balinese: on one hand they welcome visitors, while on the other hand they can allow

malign spirits to enter; hence the importance of a small entranceway as well as a

another smaller wall, called the aling-aling, placed immediately after the entrance to

baffle uninvited spirits that are normally only capable of traveling in straight lines. As a further safeguard, a small shrine is often built just in front of the house facing the road.

Offering of flowers and coconut leaves are placed in it to make spirits pause and reconsider any intention of entering.

On the northern boundary wall within the compound, a visitor is likely faced with the

family temple – actually a collection of five small shrines placed on high pedestals. These are dedicated for worshiping the ancestors, specific Hindu gods (largely dependent on family caste), and good ancient spirits. The bale dangin, a small pavilion near the eastern side of the temple complex, is traditionally used for ceremonial purposes. Further within the compound there is a number of small houses or open-sided pavilions built on the western side around the main house (bale dauh). Bale dauh is occupied by the current head of the family and his immediate family, while the smaller dwellings house children and visiting relatives. Towards the south is the kitchen (pawon), which

consists of two rooms; one is open-sided for cooking and the other is a closed room to

store cooking materials. Behind the kitchen are typically a granary, livestock pens, fruit trees, vegetable garden, a well and sanitation facilities. Within these compounds, the architecture is normally quite plain and lacking in significant decorative ornamentation; the size of the pavilions and the number of pillars holding up the ceiling are often enough to indicate status. However, much effort and expense goes towards the decoration of doors and gateways. Doors are typically paneled and carved from jackfruit wood or teak. They are usually painted but high caste families may also gild them with gold leaves. Gateways are also highly ornamented, often with the Bhoma head, which is the killer and eater of demons. Needless to say, these traditional compounds are becoming rarer even in rural areas as more and more land is converted towards the building of high-end resorts and hotels, giving priceless

values to Penglipuran Village and its insistence on their ancient lifestyle.

*****************

BOX 2: Penglipuran Village is open to visitors everyday from 9.30 am to 6 pm. A small entrance fee applies.

*****************

Dreamy Beach Cottage Driving away from the countryside towards the beach, I returned to my hotel in the

afternoon. Located on the tranquil beach of Candidasa amidst swaying palm trees, the charming resort of Candi Beach Resort and Spa was my choice of accommodation. Set

within a coconut grove garden that gently rolls on to a beautiful private white-sand

beach, the resort also highlights traditional architecture utilizing local materials from

Bali and other neighboring islands. The turquoise waters of the dreamy, palm-fringed infinity swimming pool appear to overflow into the azure sea. It is an oasis where

dreams begin.

Offering five types of room – garden room, deluxe garden bungalow, ocean room, ocean deluxe bungalow, and the newly built ocean view pool villa – it carries the concept of a

balanced, sustainable and environmentally friendly life and is the first hotel in Candidasa to launch the BioCoral program to help conserve coral reefs in the area. The resort is also within close proximity to many places of interest in East Bali such as trekking trails, traditional villages, ancient palaces, stunning beaches and diving and snorkeling sites. Candi Beach Resort and Spa Mendira Beach, Sengkidu Candidasa, Karangasem, Bali

Ph: +62-363-41234

www.candibeachbali.com ***************** BOX 3: When You’re Sleepy in East Bali Alila Manggis Buitan Village, Manggis Karangasem, Bali Ph: +62-363-41011

www.alilahotels.com/manggis

Amankila Manggis, Karangasem, Bali

Ph: +62-363-41333 www.amanresorts.com/amankila/home.aspx Bamboo Paradise Jalan Penataran Agung

Padangbai, Bali Ph: +62-822-66304330

www.bambooparadisebali.com

Bloo Lagoon Village Jalan Silayukti

Padangbai, Bali

Ph: +62-363-41211

www.bloolagoon.com

Coral View Villas Lipah Beach, Amed

Karangasem, Bali Ph: +62-363-23493

www.coralviewvillas.com Discovery Candidasa Cottages & Villas Jalan Pantai Indah 06, Candidasa Karangasem, Bali Ph: +62-363-41145 www.discoverycandidasa.com

Hidden Paradise Cottages

Lipah Beach, Amed Karangasem, Bali Ph: +62-363-23514 www.hiddenparadise-bali.com Lotus Bungalows Jalan Raya Candidasa Karangasem, Bali Ph: +62-363-41104 www.lotusbungalows.com Mara River Safari Lodge

Jalan Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra Km. 19.8 Gianyar, Bali

Ph: +62-361-751300 www.marariversafarilodge.com

Mimpi Resort Tulamben Kubu, Tulamben Karangasem, Bali Ph: +62-363-21642

www.mimpi.com

OnlYou Villas Bunutan Village

Jalan Raya Amed, Abang Amed, Karangasem, Bali

Ph: +62-363-23595

http://onlyou-bali.com

Rama Candidasa Resort and Spa

Jalan Raya Sengkidu Karangasem, Bali

Ph: +62-363-41974 www.ramacandidasahotel.com

Rama Shinta Hotel Jalan Raya Candidasa Samuh Bugbug Village Karangasem Bali Ph: +62-363-41778 www.ramashintahotel.com

Samanvaya

Banjar Tabola, Sidemen Karangasem, Bali Ph: +62-821-47103884 www.samanvaya-bali.com Santai Hotel Bunutan Village, Amed Karangasem, Bali Ph: +62-363-23487 www.santaibali.com The Lemon House

Gang Melanting 5 Padangbai, Bali

Ph: +62-812-46371575 www.lemonhousebali.com

The Watergarden Hotel and Spa Jalan Raya Candidasa, Bali Ph: +62-363-41540 www.watergardenhotel.com

Villa Sasoon

Jalan Raya Candidasa Karangasem, Bali

Ph: +62-363-41511 www.villasasoon.com

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Ubud for Dinner

I couldn’t laze around in my room for too long, though, and only had time to freshen up, as I was meeting some friends in Ubud for dinner. Ubud is also one of the reasons why

East Bali is attracting a new, cooler breed of visitors – the sort who in the past may have opted for, say, a week in Kuta. As quoted in many travel books, Ubud is synonymous

with culture but also home to good restaurants, cafes and streets of shops, many of which sell unique goods from the region’s artisans. We were dining at Bali’s most famous duck joint, Bebek Bengil, or Dirty Duck Diner. The whole menu here is almost entirely dedicated to the humble duck – crispy fried duck, duck fried rice, duck in chili sauce, and so on. But their legendary specialty, bebek betutu or smoked duck, has to be ordered 24 hours in advance.

Seated in one of their traditional bamboo huts, both my friend and I settled for the

crispy fried duck. The duck is boiled for three hours with 20 different types of spices, then fried to crispy perfection upon order. It is served steamed rice, vegetables and two choices of chili sauce: sambal matah (shallot, lemongrass and chili based condiment) and sambal terasi (hot chili sauce with shrimp paste). It was simply savory. The hint of citrus in the sambal matah, the saltiness of the shrimp paste and the heat of the chili impeccably complimented the duck and made that incredible layering of flavors that Bali is famous for. This wasn’t the first time I tried it but it gets me hooked more and more every time. The restaurant opens every day from 10 am to 10 pm. Bebek Bengil (Dirty Duck Diner) Jalan Hanoman

Padang Tegal Ubud, Bali

Ph: +62-361-977675, 975489 www.bebekbengil.com

***************** BOX 4:

Ubud’s Savory Life

Warung Ibu Oka Tucked away in a spot opposite the former Royal Palace, Warung Ibu Oka offers Balinese

roast suckling pig (babi guling) that draws both locals and food lovers from around the world. Open every day from 11 am to 3 pm, long queues are unavoidable as the tables

here fill up quickly. Be sure to arrive early. The roast pig is served in big succulent chunks

in a rattan bowl with rice, fried intestines, spicy vegetables and Ibu Oka’s secret sauce,

all for under US$5. It is arguably one of the best cracklings one will ever taste. [Jalan Tegal Sari 2, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-976345]

Café Lotus

Created in 1982 as a bohemian meeting place for local artists and backpackers, the café now has branches all over the island but none compares to its original location in Ubud,

looking out over a huge lotus pond bordered by tall flowering trees and guarded by the Saraswati Temple that comes alive every night with enchanting dances. The menu is eclectic ranging from traditional Balinese cuisine to tuna carpaccio or the vegetarian favorite, lentil and shitake soup. [Jalan Raya Ubud, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-975660] Naughty Nuri’s Warung and Grill Driving along Jalan Raya Sangginan, one can already see the clouds of smoke and smell the irresistible aroma of barbecue long before arriving at Naughty Nuri’s Warung and

Grill. A favorite expat hangout, it offers some of the best barbecued spare ribs, lamb and

pork chops. Their dirty martinis are as good as the food, gaining claims from celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain as the best he has every drunk outside of New York. [Jalan Raya Sangginan, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-977547; www.naughtynurisbali.com] Wayan Café & Bakery With nature abounding the eatery, Wayan Café & Bakery offers a lovely atmosphere. Set in a garden with fountains, statues and traditional Balinese floor tables (don’t forget to remove your shoes), the menu consists of plenty of local and western options. Try their signature dish, Indonesian Rijstaffel, which is fragrant rice served with samplers of many side dishes including chicken satay, chicken curry, fried shredded coconut, hard boiled eggs and spiced green bean salad. [Monkey Forest Road, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-975447; www.alamindahbali.com/cafe_wayan.htm; opens daily from 8 am to 10 pm]

Mozaic

The best place to splash out on a gourmet meal in Ubud, the stunning cuisine of Franco-American chef Chris Salans compliments the magical atmosphere of a tropical garden.

Eat here for dinner and the garden is brilliantly candle-lit. Winning dishes include Salans’ beef tenderloin and ripe jackfruit in a vermouth and balsamic reduction, grilled yellow-fin tuna with a kaffir lime leaf dressing, and a ripe tomme de savoie cheese from France with black truffle honey and apricot sorbet. [Jalan Raya Sangginan, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-975768; www.mozaic-bali.com]

*****************

Diving Day

The following day was a diving day. My first destination was Tulamben, a small fishing village on the northeast coast of Bali, to dive its most popular dive site, the Wreck of the

USAT Liberty. Anchored off the coast of Lombok, the massive ship was hit by a Japanese

torpedo during World War II. Miraculously nobody got hurt, but the ship was badly

damaged. The American Navy planned to tow the ship to Singaraja Harbor in North Bali but failed as the harbor was completely occupied. So the ship was intentionally stranded

on the rocky beach of Tulamben. Then in 1963, Mount Agung, the volcano that towers over Tulamben, erupted. The eruption caused the ship to sink into the sea where it now

rests at the depth of three to 29 meters, allowing corals to grow and coat the wreckage and turning it into a new home for an extraordinary number of marine lives.

It is a wonderland for divers of all skill levels. Although I didn’t have enough guts to venture into the dark corridors of the wreckage, I had quite a good time being greeted by bumped-head parrotfish, graceful batfish, large sweetlips, beautiful angelfish and butterfly fish, patrolling napoleon wrasse, colorful fusilier and anthias, even schooling trevallies and barracudas. Peeking under ledges and in crevices, I found scorpionfish, lionfish and pufferfish peeking back at me as were the gobies, blennies and shrimps out on the sand flats. This is a world-class site not to be missed!

For the second dive I headed to Amed, a long coastal strip of fishing villages with stunning scenery, perfect for those yearning for a slow-paced relaxing holidays. Approaching a recommended dive site by boat, Batu Dawa, I passed a pearl farming area north of Amed and learned from my dive guide that residents of Amed do make their livelihood from pearl farming as well as fishing, salt-making and tourism. Descending to a depth of 30 meters, Batu Dawa is a wall covered with flamboyant hard corals, showy fans and large sponges. A variety of reef fish went about their business, completely ignoring my presence. And on the way up, I even had an encounter with a patrolling white-tip reef shark and a couple of green turtles. The last dive that afternoon was at Amed Wall where I started diving in a shallow area

right off Jemeluk Beach in a wonderful coral garden and followed a moderate current guiding me in about 10 minutes to the wall, which drops to a depth of around 35 meters

and boasts spectacular soft corals. Nearly any possible species of animated reef fish can be found here. At the depth of 27 meters, I arrived at a sandy field and was immediately

greeted by a large population of blue-spotted stingrays. Several white-tip and black-tip sharks also popped in to patrol their feeding ground. Amed Wall is purely fantastic! *****************

BOX 5:

Dive Centers

TULAMBEN

Aqua Dive Paradise

www.tulambendivers.com

Liberty Dive Resort

www.libertydiveresort.com

Matahari Tulamben www.divetulamben.com

Tulamben Wreck Divers www.tulambenwreckdivers.com AMED Amed Dive Center www.ameddivecenter.com

Bali Reef Divers www.balireefdivers.com Baliku Dive Resort www.amedbalidiving.com Baruna Dive Center www.divebali.fr Eco Dive Bali www.ecodivebali.com

Euro Dive Bali www.eurodivebali.com

Jukung Dive

www.jukungdivebali.com ***************** Green Hills & Lonely Shores

The next day I rented a motorbike and spent the afternoon cruising around Karangasem area. The region felt like a sweet transitional spot where it was still possible to feel part

of something old and something new, all at the same time. Rolling hills, terraced paddy fields and long stretch of nearly empty glorious beaches live harmoniously side by side.

Laidback cafés and humble stalls scatter and thrive here and there, some with well-worn chairs but all offering fortifying meals and drinks at affordable prices.

My first stop was Jambul Hill where a large banyan tree grows on the top of the hill like

a crown, hence the name ‘jambul’, which means crown or crest. Situated in a plateau in Pesaban Village, near to the the border of Karangasem Regency and Klungkung Regency,

it is an ideal place to rest and relax. Sitting at around 500 meters above sea level, the scenery is amazing with vast rice terraces, the winding road underneath and palm trees

stretching to the sea.

Passing through Sibetan Village, I discovered small plantations of salak, one of many indigenous fruits in Indonesia also known as snake fruits due to the reddish-brown scaly skin that resembles a snake skin pattern. The village is ever so slowly blooming into an agritourism site but it is yet to be fully developed. There is no organized tour to the plantations but most hotels in the area can arrange a visit upon request. However, a friendly chat with some of the local farmers over a cup of coffee at a small warung landed me with a personal invitation to visit one of their plantations. At the end of the visit I drove away with a plastic bag full of ripe salak fruits that tasted delightfully sweet.

Returning to my hotel in the late afternoon, I made a stop at Perasi Beach, around 30 minutes east from Candidasa area. Also known as White Sand Beach or Virgin Beach, it is such a breath of fresh air from the crowded beaches in Kuta, Legian and Seminyak. There are no hotels, villas or any other tourist accommodations in the area, only views of Gili Biaha (Biaha Island) on the horizon and vast blue ocean with calm waters. Several food stalls do exist selling local food, snacks and beverages for visitors, as well as a shop renting umbrellas and sun loungers for the day. I opted to lay down in the shade of a palm tree where I happily passed out for a while. ***************** BOX 6:

Getting to Perasi

Perasi Beach is located 4.5 kilometers east of Candidasa or a one and a half hour drive

from Denpasar. Follow the main road of Jalan Candidasa-Bugbug to the village of Perasi and look out for a dirt road opposite the village’s main temple that leads to beach. Signs may display various names such as ‘White Sand Beach’, ‘Virgin Beach’, or ‘Pasir Putih’. It is then a one kilometer drive down a bumpy track to the beach.

*****************

Temple Blessings East Bali is also dotted with many sacred temples and romantic ancient palaces. One

that I visited the next morning was Ulun Subak Temple in Bukit Jati, Bangli Regency. The temple is believed to be a symbol of fertility and is still actively used by farmers in the

surrounding areas to pray for abundant harvests. Compared to other temples in Bali, its

appearance is not particularly outstanding but as I paid a close attention to the natural

sublimity of decay along its walls, it evokes a dreamy hazy past, forcing a sense of peace that penetrated deep into my heart.

Also in Bangli, Kehen Temple is a prettier temple. Set on a wooded hillside in Cempaga

Village, about two kilometers north of Bangli’s town center, it is one of Bali’s finest and most impressive temples sporting eight terraces and a huge 700 year-old banyan tree. It

was built as the main temple for the Bangli Kingdom during the reign of Sri Bhatara Guru Adikunti Ketana in the 11th century. Its name is derived from the Balinese word ‘keren’, meaning flame, after the God of Fire who protects the temple. I slowly climbed the 38 stairs leading to the exquisitely adorned entrance of the temple. Both sides of the stairs are guarded by statues of wayang figures taken from popular Ramayana stories. Approaching the three terraced main courtyard, I finally saw the celebrated banyan tree where my eyes immediately focused on a quaint monk’s cell

built high up in its branches. An image played in my mind: an old Hindu monk quietly

meditating in it while mottled sunlight flows through the uneven spaces between the branches. That would be a sight to behold. In Karangasem, both Gede Karangasem Palace and Agung Kanginan Palace made my list of memorable old buildings in East Bali. Both are historically important as they were once residences of the kings of Karangasem Kingdom, one of the nine kingdoms in Bali. Gede Karangasem is the largest of the five palaces in Amalpura, the ancient capital of the kingdom. Interestingly, it is inspired by Chinese architecture that most of the palace are decorated with ornaments such as images of Barongsai (Chinese traditional lion dance) and other Chinese bas-relief patterns. As the emblem of the kingdom’s pride, every corner is designed to make the maximum impression. I couldn’t escape the feeling that I was touring a back lot, the product of someone’s spectacularly detailed illusion.

Then, there is also the Kertha Gosa in the city of Klungkung, a beautiful heritage of

traditional Balinese architecture formerly used as the royal court. Founded in the 18th century, the buildings have been renovated after an earthquake in 1971 that destroyed

most of them. Kertha Gosa’s ultimate expression of a chic utopia are the ceilings, which are fully decorated by ghastly paintings, done on asbestos sheeting, to persuade violators not to repeat the offense. My favorite, though, is the floating hut or bale kambang on the lotus-filled water pond. Its original function was as a place to welcome VIP guests, but today it is best for daydreaming amongst the sea of lovely lotus flowers. I

spent a happy afternoon touring the complex, which is believed to be laid out in the form of a mandala with courtyards, gardens, pavilions and moats. Before I left, I also

visited the Semaraja Museum and examined its collection of songket (silver- or gold-threaded cloth), a moving display of the 1908 Puputan war and some interesting old

photos of the royal court.

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BOX 7:

Temples: Best of the Best

Besakih Temple Perched 1,000 meters above sea level on the southwestern slopes of Mount Agung,

Besakih is the biggest and holiest temple in Bali, and has been known as Bali’s ‘Mother Temple’ for over 1,000 years. Comprising at least 86 temples, it is an artistic complex surrounded by breathtaking panorama of rice paddies, green hills, towering mountains and idyllic streams. Its location on Mount Agung gives it a mystical quality. Sarongs and sashes, which must be worn to enter the complex, are available for rent. You can also purchase them at one of the many stalls outside the temple. Women on their periods are not allowed to enter.

Soekasada Ujung Gardens

A gorgeous water palace for the kings, Soekasada Ujung Gardens, also known as Taman Ujung, is situated in Tumbu Village, Karangasem. In the old days, the spacious gardens echoed with the laughter of the king’s wives and children as they relaxed, dipping their feet in the ponds. Today, the gardens are a beauty to capture in photographs or to take long walks while enjoying the views of shimmering blue ocean, lush green forest and, of course, the mighty Mount Agung. Tirtagangga Another of the world’s most romantic water palaces is Tirtagangga, which literally means water from the Ganges. Gushing springs flowing from beneath an ancient banyan tree filling the gardens with soothing pools that grace this water palace. Located in Amalpura, the prominent 11 tiered lotus fountain has become the symbol for

Tirtagangga since its creation by the late king of Karangasem in 1948. After a visit to the Versailles in France, the king was inspired to build his second water palace in the

mountains overlooking his kingdom. The king then named it after the holy river Ganges in India. It is believed that if one bathes in the waters of Tirtagangga on a full moon,

he/she will be blessed with lasting youth. Goa Lawah Goa Lawah or Bat Cave Temple is one of favorite places of interest in Bali, located in the countryside of Pasinggahan, Klungkung. The temple is built in a cave where thousands of

tail bats reside. The sounds of bats occasionally flapping its wings give an eerie quality to the temple. But the reality is less lethal. Goa Lawah is actually a beautiful sacred temple

surrounded by flowering trees with the views of blue ocean and Nusa Penida Island as a magnificent backdrop.

*****************

Artsy East Bali

Right across Kertha Gosa complex is a traditional market, Kertha Gosa Market that opens from 6 am to 6 pm. I went there to take some pictures with no intention of

buying. But I soon realized this isn’t a traditional market selling vegetables and fruits. Instead, the three-story building specializes in songket. Hand-woven in silk or cotton by

independent weavers from the villages of Sidemen and Gelgel, Klungkung, the fabric is intricately patterned with gold or silver threads creating glorious glittering effects. The

prices are quite friendly, starting from as little as Rp100,000. I couldn’t help marveling at them. How could I not have a change of intention? By then it was too late to dispel the artistic ghosts that have trailed Bali for hundreds of years. The next day I just had to make may way to the village of Singapadu in Gianyar, this time for gold jewelries. Art shops lined the main street of Singapadu, one couldn’t ask for a more atmospheric place to watch the goldsmiths at work or to simply window-shop. I ended up at Wirata Jewelry, a shop belonging to a talented goldsmith I Wayan

Wirata since 1974. Wirata’s family has been dedicated to this art for generations. Wirata

learned to carve and make gold jewelries from his father who focused in a particular style of carving locally known as sri bunga. Later on, he apprenticed with his uncle who taught him to incorporate traditional images. A cousin then taught him modern patterns as well. Handmade with impeccable precision, his products are therefore testaments to all that he has learned as well as his own compulsions of imagination. A black oval ring with a simple yet beautiful carving of gold flower, a turtle brooch and a colorful pendant are just a few of the hundreds of jewelries the shop produces every month. But they were all I could afford. [Wirata Jewelry; Banjar Seseh, Singapadu, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali; Ph: +62-361-298365; opens every day from 8.30 am to 5 pm] Singapadu is also renowned for its silver. Not as famous as its neighboring village of Celuk, but the quality of Singapadu’s silver is just as respectable. As I strolled into Gala

Silver, the owner of the shop, Tjakra, took me to a room in the backside of the gallery where a number of silversmiths were busy melting silver, mixing it with copper to make

it harder, and shaping them into striking pendants, necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches and earrings. Prices vary depending on their intricacies but are still affordable that I had

to make some room in my bag for them. [Gala Silver; Banjar Seseh, Singapadu, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali; Ph: +62-361-295647; opens every day from 7 am to 6 pm] *****************

BOX 8:

Notable Arts & Crafts

Wood Carving of Mas Village Mas Village in Ubud has been identified as an artistic countryside focusing in the arts of

wood carving. Promoting the synergy between humanism and naturalism, it is a highly

developed form of craftsmanship and artistry in Bali. The products are recognized both

nationally and internationally. A recommended place to shop is Bali Wood Carver, which sells a large variety of carvings with prices starting from only Rp30,000 to hundreds of

millions of rupiah. [Bali Wood Carver; Mas Village, Ubud, Bali; Ph: +62-361-975250]

Wayang Paintings of Kamasan Rama and Shinta flying above the clouds or the legend of Sutasoma are two of the many

inspirations for the classical paintings in Kamasan Village where the art of painting on true canvas started in the 16th century. The character of the paintings is flat and one-dimensional, and does not introduce the concept of contours or perspective of light. But they are rich in colors and meticulous patterns, making them popular as gifts for the kings of the past as well as souvenirs for today’s art fanatics. [Dogol Classical Wayang Kamasan; Banjar Sangging, Klungkung, Bali; Ph: +62-366-24794, +62-81338322922] Gamelan of Tihingan

Tucked away in the foothills of Mount Agung, in the village of Tihingan, is some ‘heavy

metal magic’. The ancient village is home to the masters of magically charged metal, the gamelan crafters. It is a fascinating place to visit and witness this archaic art of bronze craftsmanship. Tihingan, with its characteristic gamelan-flavored street names – Jalan Gong Gede, Gang Saron, Gang Curing – is a sleepy place consisting of only one main road and an intersection centered upon a monstrous banyan tree. The majority of the small family homes lining the main road are either foundries or workshops selling gamelan instruments and accessories. It’s also enlightening to watch the smiths tuning the keys of the gamelan as they still rely on the sharpness of their ears instead of modern tuning technology. [Gong Yudha; Jalan Gong Gede 4, Tihingan Village, Klungkung, Bali; Ph: +62-366-223223] Grinsing Woven Cloth & Lontar Painting

While other fabrics gradually lose colors, grinsing’s colors intensify as it ages, increasing its value. The best place to witness the weaving of grinsing cloth and buy the products is

in Tenganan Village, the home of the Bali Aga people who consider themselves as the indigenous people of Bali. A piece of grinsing is priced from Rp1,000,000 for a small one

(around 1.5 meters long and 28 centimeters wide) and between Rp5,000,000 to over Rp30,000,000 for larger ones, depending on the complexity of the motifs and the age. The village is also famous for its paintings painted on the unusual canvas made of palm leaves, as well as woven crafts made from ata tree (a type of ferns). [Tenganan Bali Aga Village, Pegerinsingan, Manggis, Karangasem, Bali]

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BOX 9:

Recommended Eateries

AMED

Amed Café

Amed Village, Abang Karangasem, Bali

Ph: +62-363-23473 www.amedcafe.com

CANDIDASA Vincent’s Restaurant Jalan Raya Candidasa, Bali Ph: +62-363-41368 www.vincentsbali.com

KARANGASEM

Puri Boga Restaurant Jalan Raya Besakih, Jambul Hill Rendang, Karangasem, Bali Ph: +62-366-264020 KLUNGKUNG Sate Ikan Merta Sari Jalan Timbul, Pesinggahan Dawan, Klungkung, Bali Ph: +62-366-23985

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My visit to East Bali started in a village and thus – I felt – must end in a village. Venturing

five kilometers north of Ubud, I went to Kokokan Village. It was a Sunday at sunset and the village was still alive with cheerful chatters and laughter of the residents. But the main attraction here is a different type of ‘residents’. Kokokan Village is the habitat of thousands of kokokan birds (a type of crane that lives in the trees) and in the afternoon they return to their nests, giving a spectacular performance for visitors as they fly home.

Birdsongs rose up, mixed with the occasional scraping whine of bugs. And in an instant, as they perch in their nests ready to call it the day, the green trees turned magnificently

white. The sight was the very definition of enchantment.

Dark clouds gathered ahead as I turned back. But I was too enchanted to be distraught. East Bali is not magically real but I think it is really magical.

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BOX 10:

Family Fun in East Bali at Bali Safari and Marine Park

Bringing your family to East Bali means a visit to Bali Safari and Marine Park should be

on your itinerary. It is home of hundreds of animals representing over 60 species, including some endangered ones such as komodo dragons and orangutans. Family fun activities include journeying on an elephant’s back, encounter with your favorite animals and the wildest fine dining experience while surrounded by lions. As part of Indonesia Safari Parks, it is at the frontline of wildlife conservation in Indonesia. Bali Safari and Marine Park is actively involved in ensuring the future survival and wellbeing of many Indonesian animal species through engaging education and conservation programs.

Bali Safari and Marine Park

Jalan Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra Km. 19.8 Gianyar, Bali Ph: +62-361-950000 Opens daily: 9 am - 5 pm www.balisafarimarinepark.com *****************