V. 2

The By!n"nes & The Bal#ns 2

The By!n"nes & The Bal#

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Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a six-week trip to Southeastern Europe from May 9 ~ June 21, 2012. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2012. V.2

The By!n"nes & The Bal#ns 2

The By!n"nes & The Bal#

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Ripen, young wheat and corn, into the grain! Your harvest has arrived before its time, I see precious offerings piled up high At the altar of our church and tribe.

~ Petar II Petrović Njegoš (1997)

The By!n"nes & The Bal#nsMay 9 ~ June 21, 2012

V. 2 Croa"a & Montenegro

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Took our final vaporetto to Troncetto and by 9:45 we had retrieved our car and were on our way, following the A4 toward Trieste. Noted as we entered Slovenia that the countryside became hillier; the excellent road had long bridges and longer tunnels. At the toll booth, noticed that the lanes were set up for various currencies. Drove into the Istrian Peninsula to Porec, located on the north coast of its own peninsula. The roads were great and there was little traffic. Porec is a mixture of modern resort hotels, souvenir shops, Roman ruins, Christian churches, and Venetian architecture. Found the UNESCO-listed Euphrasius Basilica by following a local car into the heart of the town; were fortunate to find a place to park nearby. The church is a well-preserved 6th century building showing significant Byzantine influence. The earliest phase of the structure dates from 313 when it was built as a repository for the remains of St. Maurus. There were openings in the floor, revealing previous levels with geometric mosaic designs. The lovely mosaics in the apse were from the 15th century; unfortunately they were partially obscured by a canopy and the area was roped off. After getting Croatian Kuna (about 6:1) at an ATM, drove to Barem to see a small church that has been awarded three Michelin stars for its Renaissance frescos; it is the only three-star site in Istria. Spent more than

an hour asking people who did not speak English where it was and how to get the key. Finally found the church in a small forest below the town; got as close as the key-holder’s mother, but never located Sonia or her key. Proceeded 23 km to Motovun through countryside that some have likened to Tuscany, with hilltop villages, vineyards, and olive groves. Motovun is a medieval town located atop a 277-meter high hill, looking today much as it did in the 12th century. Leading to the Venetian square is a long staircase with 1052 steps, which we did not attempt. Left the car at a public lot below and a driver from the hotel collected us and skillfully brought us up the steep, slippery stone street to the top of the hill. The Kastel Hotel is no castle, but it is comfortable and its location is perfect. Walked the fortified walls of the town and enjoyed panoramic views as the sun began to set. Passed numerous shops selling local truffles, honey, olive oil, and brandy. Ordered fruit brandy in the hotel bar before crossing the square for a simple meal of local specialties at Konoba Pod Voltom, where we were the only guests. Our homemade pasta with fresh black truffles, wild asparagus soup, and fresh salad of dark green arugula was perfect, along with a pitcher of local Malvazija white wine. A rosy Alpine glow in the sky over the peaceful landscape as we returned to our room.

Tuesday, May 15 Motovun, Croa!a

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Porec

Euphrasius BasilicaPorec

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Motovun

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A grey and rainy morning. The hotel driver brought us down the hill where we retrieved our car and were on the road by 9:00. Retraced the route to Beram and waited for Sonia, the lady with the key (the desk clerk had alerted her to our arrival). I immediately recognized her as a woman I had seen yesterday when we were there; we had been so close! She drove with us down the hill to the tiny church and unlocked the door; we entered the dim interior to find an incredible collection of frescos that completely covered the walls. Stories of Mary, scenes of the life of Jesus, Saint George and Saint Martin, Herod’s men killing the babies (in grotesque and bloody detail) and across the back wall, a Dance of the Dead, made all the more haunting as we could see them only by flashlight. That these paintings are hidden in that tiny locked church in the woods, accessible only from a remote Croatian village atop a hill reached by a narrow road and a series of switchbacks is the stuff of fairy tales. These are the moments I treasure.

Wednesday, May 16 Trogir, Croa!a

Beram

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St. Mary of SkriljineBeram

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Our drive from Istria was dominated by pounding rain and adversely affected by the slow pace of traffic on the road around Rijeka. We had to proceed through the city to reach the coast, and noticed that many of the buildings had a heavy, decorative Austro-Hungarian look. Put up with the traffic and rain-restricted views until we reached Senj, where we decided to head inland and pick up the autoroute to Zadar. Capital of the Byzantines in Dalmatia in the 9th century, Zadar has an interesting 9th century church, St. Donatus, built on the site of a Roman forum. Slabs and pieces from the ancient ruin are visible in the structure of the “new” church. We also visited the nearby archeological museum where I was intrigued by the varied designs in its collection of pottery shards. The rain persisted as we drove on to Sibenik to see the Cathedral of St. James. The main reason that this church was designated a UNESCO site is its frieze of 71 heads on the exterior walls of the apses: portraits

in stone from the 15th century depicting the faces of ordinary people—placid, annoyed, angry, fearful, joyful—conveying the timelessness of human emotion. We ran around in the blowing rain, happily snapping photos. Had it been a sunny day, it would have been a beautiful drive to Trogir, along the Adriatic. Instead, had to rely on imagination as we passed small islands that dotted the azure water and white waves crashing against the golden rocks. It was nearly 7:00 by the time we reached this city brimming with Romanesque and Renaissance architecture. We are staying at the Hotel Pasike, a small hotel with only eight rooms that was once a 15th century family home. The rooms are cozily furnished with 19th century antiques. Enjoyed fresh grilled sea bass at Kamerlengo, a restaurant close to the hotel that is dominated by a wood-burning oven that cooked our fish to perfection. Local loza (a local grappa) was a nice finish to the meal.

St. Dona!s ChurchZadar

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Zadar Archeological

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SibenikCa!edral of St. James

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TrogirUNESCO

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It was so windy at breakfast that we thought the tent around the hotel terrace would blow away, so moved inside. Zipped up our w indbreakers and walked aro und Tro g ir ’ s mediev al streets. At the main square, visited the Cathedral of St. Lovro. It was dark and quiet: th e o n ly so u n d w a s th e murmured prayer of a single old woman. The 13th century portal featured interesting sculptures, including a rather startled looking Adam and Eve.

Thu!day, May 17 Hvar, Croa"a

Trogir

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Jake retrieved the car from across the bridge and picked me up at the hotel. Loaded our bags and were on our way to Split, Croatia’s second largest city, founded when Roman Emperor Diocletian retired there in 305 AD. His retirement palace, more than 30,000 square meters, is the largest private residence in antiquity. Luckily, we found a convenient parking place and walked down streets that had once been corridors, passing shops and buildings that were rooms long ago. It was interesting to walk under weed-encroached arches and other remnants of former grandeur. Visited the cathedral that ironically was built over the tomb of the greatest Christian-slayer in history.

SplitPa!ce of Diocle"an

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Continued our drive along the Adriatic Coast. The clouds had given way to brilliant sun, but a brisk gusty wind bent the trees and brought up the white caps as we drove along. In contrast to the underdevelopment that we found north of Trogir, saw significant construction in the area south of Split. The scenery was dramatic, with high peaks sloping into the sea, leaving only thin stretches of land dotted with white houses and orange tiled roofs. Reached the ferry crossing at Drvenik at about 1:40 and were number 21 in line for the ferry to Sucuraj on the island of Hvar. As we waited, I nervously watched the “water dust” increase and subside with the gusting Bora winds. According to the schedule, the ferry was due to leave at 5:15. We were glad we had gotten there so early, as the ferry came at 3:30 and began to board everyone at 3:45. I scrambled to get a ticket while the man let Jake go ahead and bring the car on board. At 4:00, the ferry pulled away from the dock and we were on it. A lucky break. Arrived at the island 35 minutes later; the crossing was fine so I needn’t have worried.

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Started the 72 km trip to the town of Hvar on the other end of the island. Jake had not planned for the drive to be as challenging as it was: a narrow road with no shoulders or guardrails and vertiginous drop offs. However, the ride through the Stari Grad Plain was fantastic. Chosen by UNESCO as a cultural landscape, it has remained practically intact since it was first colonized by Ionian Greeks in the 4th century BC. The original agricultural activity of this fertile plain, centering on grapes and olives, has been maintained since Greek times. It also features ancient walls and small stone houses that are reminders of the geometrical system of land division used by the ancient Greeks. Besides, we saw beautiful vistas of the Adriatic and other islands. The drive took more than an hour and a half, and we realized that we must start the drive back to the ferry in the morning no later than 6:30 AM. When we checked into the Riva Hotel, the clerk could not believe that we were

actually arriving at seven and planning to leave less than 12 hours later. They do not know my husband. Settled into our modern room and discovered interesting aspects of its innovative interior design. Instead of a mirror in front of the sink, there is glass, so that rather than seeing your own reflection, you see your roommate smiling back at you from the other side. If one choses to avert his eyes, strategically placed mirrors are there to reflect things at surprising angles. Does anyone in the world think this is a good idea? Walked along the harbor, lined with expensive boats, to the town square. Bought some fresh Hvar lavender from a woman on the square as well as some lavender oil made by her father. Shared a fish stew at Macondo, a small local favorite located up a side street at the top of a flight of stone steps. Tried Maraschino as an aperitif and decided that I have not yet found my Croatian favorite. Back at our room, tried not to watch each other brushing our teeth.

Stari Gran P!inUNESCO

Hvar

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Managed to get started at 6:45 and made the trip back across the island in about 90 minutes; just in time for the ferry. The crossing was calm and we were the only passengers other than one truck. Arrived in Drvenik a little after nine and continued down the coast before turning north and cro ssing the bo rder to Bo snia & Herzegovina at Metkovic an hour later. Followed the Neretva Valley to Mostar to see the famous bridge that spans that river. As there was a problem with parking, Jake dropped me off so that I could see the Stari Most, the 16th century Ottoman bridge that was completed in 1567 under Suleiman the Magnificent and destroyed in 1993 by Bosnian Croat Artillery during the Bosnian War. With funding from various international organizations, including UNESCO, the bridge was rebuilt under identical specifications, using the same local Tenelia stone as in the original. The new bridge was opened in 2004 and serves as a reminder of the possibilities of man’s peaceful coexistence. I will admit that as I stood and gazed at the beautiful lines of the bridge and its peaceful setting below the arid mountains, tears came to my eyes.

Friday, May 18Dubrovnik, Croa!a

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Entering Bosnia, we saw that the Cyrillic on a predominace of the road signs had been painted or scratched off, an overt display of anti-Serbian sentiment.

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Mo!arStari Mo!

UNESCO

Mo!ar

Jake picked me up and we drove through the Muslim area; we saw several mosques a n d m o s t w o m e n w e r e covered. During the war, all but one of the 27 mosques in Mostar were destroyed. It is obvious that the city still retains this ethnic and religious divide. As we drove through town, we w ere impressed that the bombed out buildings and bu lle t -r idd le d w alls no w uneasily coexist with modern construction projects.

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We retraced the way we’d come and rejoined the road to Dubrovnik, briefly crossing borders again. This time, there were few formalities as the road from Split to Dubrovnik is heavily traveled. Arrived in Dubrovnik in bright afternoon sunshine and a porter led us through the UNESCO-cited old section to the Pucic Palace, a small hotel conveniently located adjacent to the Gunduliceva Poljana. Founded 1300 years ago by Greek refugees, Ragusa (as Dubrovnik was called then) was the maritime rival of Venice. After sustaining significant damage in 1991 during the breakup of Yugoslavia, Dubrovnik has been fully restored and is once again one of the major tourist cities in the world.

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We spent the afternoon walking the stone streets of the walled city along with gangs of tourists and a spirited gathering of young people who had just graduated from high school; as I watched their jubilance, I felt for t h e m i n t h i s t i m e o f h i g h unemployment. Sipped Croatian wines at Matusko, where we sat at the bar and sampled Posip white and Postup red while music by Croatian pop icon Oliver Dragoevic played in the background. Shared a huge seafood platter at Dalmatino, a short walk from the hotel.

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If you want to see paradise on !r", come to Dubrovnik.

~George Bernard Shaw

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The last lazy morning we will have for a while; did not leave the hotel until almost 10:00. As we stepped out onto Gunduliceva, realized that Saturday is Market Day, and the place was filled with umbrella-shaded tables laden with fresh produce and local crafts, including embroidery, lavender sachets, soap and oil products, and candied figs and orange peel. Old women served as pushers, offering flat baskets of samples as we walked by.

Sa!rday, May 19 Dubrovnik, Croa"a

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Made our way through the Cathedral, the Rector’s Palace, the Dominican Monastery and Museum, Sponza Palace, and the Franciscan Monastery and Museum. All had interesting aspects but nothing particularly notable. It was just fun to wander along the Stradun, joining the crowds of visitors from all over t h e w o r l d o u t e n j o y i n g themselves. Dubrovnik is once again the joyous place it was before the Siege of 1991. Unlike Mostar, still showing the scars of its destruction, Dubrovnik is all but whole again; a few sobering reminders do remain, however: in posters that entreat, “Lest We Forget” and at the Memorial Room in the Sponza Palace where the walls are covered with photographs of the 300 young lives lost during the terrible years between 1991 and 1995. A shred of the Croatian flag is framed in the corner.

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Ca!edral

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Re!or’s Pa"ce59

St. B!ise Church

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Dubrovnik Details

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Dominican Mona!ery

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We stopped for a bite to eat at an outdoor café near Orlando’s Column; just as we sat down, heard whistling and singing and were delighted as a line of dancers in Croatian costume paraded past us to the steps of St. Blaise where they performed a lively circle dance (kolo) accompanied by traditional instruments. A large crowd immediately formed around them and clapped along. Down a narrow lane and up several fl ig h t s o f s t e p s , w e f o u n d t h e ethnographic museum. It appeared to be purposely located to discourage visitors but I enjoyed the displays of costumes and objects used in everyday life and work. In order to get a real feel for Dubrovnik, we climbed to the ramparts and around the walls of the city, stopping to gaze at the orange tiled roofs against the inky blue Adriatic. While Jake came back to the room for a rest, I trotted off to do a little shopping at my own pace. Visited several goldsmith shops, all in tiny, dusty spaces, and learned about the filigree Konavoske puce or costume buttons that are sold as earrings or pendants.

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I would love to have found an old one, but in such a tourist area, it is not realistic. This evening, we shared a three-course fish dinner at Konoba Dundo Maroje, a real value compared to last night. We sat in a narrow alley in front of the restaurant, with flocks of starlings flying over our heads in the twilight. At first, we did not notice that our table was next to a large door with a little speakeasy-type trap door cut into it. After 8:00, we became aware that a steady stream of people came to the door, rang a bell next to it, and transacted some sort of business involving the exchange of money. Could not imagine what this was all about until we learned from our server that it was an after-hours pharmacy. Too bad, as I had envisioned a much more interesting scenario. Walking back to the hotel, noticed that the bars were quickly filling up and flat screen TVs had been wheeled out into the streets to make viewing the Champions League Final easily accessible. As I close up for the night, it is Chelsea 1, Bayern Munich 1, and any score will surely echo through the streets of Dubrovnik.

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E!nographic Museum

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Sunday, May 20 Kotor, MontenegroThere was no way to sleep in, even if we’d wanted to, with church bells ringing and ringing. Lovely breakfast right on the Gunduliceva with a few market stalls behind us. When I noticed a man with a beautiful smile selling grappa, I got up and asked if I could take his picture. His friend commented that now he would be famous. Funny, in today’s e-world, he really could. By 9:30, we had loaded up and were on our way along the coastal road; panoramas of Dubrovnik as we drove along. Encountered a lot of construction and associated delays; crossed the border with Montenegro just before 11:00. Noticed the clouds starting to roll in over the mountains; hoped that did not forebode bad weather later. Our drive took is around the Bay of Kotor; resembling a

fjord, it is surrounded by precipitous mountains that descend into the water.; the road parallels the bay. Lots of small boats moored, unattended fishing rods with lines dangling in the water, small buoys indicated some kind of seafood farming—maybe mussels? Drove though Kotor on the lower (and often unpaved) Dobrota Road and continued on through Budva to reach an overlook of Sveti Stefan. This tiny island, connected to the mainland by an isthmus, was a fishing community from the 15th century to the 1950s. That was until someone had the idea to turn the entire island into a luxury hotel. Such A-List dignitaries as Queen Elizabeth and Sophia Loren stayed there, up until the wars of the 1990s. Today, we enjoyed the view from afar.

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Sve! Stefan

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Drove back to Kotor and walked though the Old Town. My first thought was, “Wow, a mini-Dubrovnik.” But we found that it has a real charm of its own; far less touristy and visitors were less obtrusive. Surprisingly, there are fortification walls that extend up the mountainside that don’t appear to enclose anything from a defensive point of view. The town dates from the 15th century and was extensively rebuilt after an earthquake in 1979. We really liked St. Tryphon’s Cathedral, a Romanesque structure completed in 1166. Its light-filled interior is covered with rib vaulting in red brick and there were traces of frescoes in the arches. Also visited the 20th century Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas. I was delighted to

find an antiques shop adjacent to the Maritime Museum where I found a simple little silver and metal Coptic cross from a Kotor family. The young woman who was minding the store is from Belgrade; her husband is from Kotor. How I love my antiques moments. Found our hotel on the main road from Budva; we had missed it earlier when we had driven the lower road. We have a junior suite at The Palazzo Radomiro, with a balcony supported by unique sculptures, overlooking the bay. Spent the rest of the afternoon sipping wine and nibbling local cheese in the orangery; the perfect peace was broken only by the young son of the only other guest who was running around firing a plastic machine gun.

KotorUNESCO

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We had dinner a few feet away from the water and a few steps from our room at a little place called Pantagana, in a small, 500-year-old building. We were the only guests: our host, owner Budo Popovic, proudly pointed out the sign on the door that said, “Total Private.” It was unbelievably cozy: the light of candles in old brass holders reflected the warm red of the tablecloths; old maps and nautical antiques decorated the walls. We had bass right out of the bay and the freshest of vegetables. After dinner, Budo shared his homemade grappa, made of 17 herbs plus “grass.” He sat down with us and talked of men and disagreements and the things that are most important in life. Then he brought out his prized Spanish guitar and played and sang songs of old Montenegro; songs that expressed the realities of life. Just the three of us together with candlelight, music and wine. I will never forget it.

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Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a six-week trip to Southeastern Europe from May 9 ~ June 21, 2012. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2012. V.2

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I don't know whe!er war is an interlude during p"ce, or p"ce an interlude during war.

~ Georges Clemenc"u, 1917