2010 Poinsettia Cultural Informationstrategies to success

Propagation❆ read this culture information before you start the

crop and throughout production as needed.❆ start clean and be prepared for cuttings to arrive.❆ Provide 72° – 74°F/ 22° – 23°c bottom heat for the

first three weeks.❆ Provide 800 – 1,100 foot candles of light until roots

develop.❆ adjust mist daily depending on weather conditions

and plant needs.❆ use appropriate fungicides preventatively one

to two days after sticking and seven days later if needed to help control Botrytis.

Early Stages After Transplant❆ Be proactive in your management decisions.❆ Plant the crop early (especially compact varieties)

to allow for adequate growth and unexpected flower delays—you can always slow the crop down if needed.

❆ avoid heat stress during the first three weeks by shading, cooling the soil with mid-afternoon irrigation, and misting the plants lightly with tap water as needed during the hottest part of the day.

❆ growth regulate both before and after pinching on medium and vigorous varieties using Florel at 500 ppm or other Pgrs.

❆ Begin regular scouting for whitefly and other insects. if you're using neonicotinoid drenches (Flagship, Marathon, safari, etc.), then delay application until about three to four weeks after planting (use alternative insecticide sprays early on to control insect populations).

From Pinch to First Color❆ use upper leaf removal at the time of pinching to

allow good light penetration, to slow down upper lateral breaks, and to help even out the overall branching of the plant.

❆ Begin to track the crop height weekly and compare height readings against your ideal desired height.

❆ Begin spacing when the leaves start to touch each other from adjacent plants and apply growth regulators in a timely manner to achieve the desirable V-shaped habit.

❆ Monitor the nutrition of the crop by measuring ec and pH of the potting medium periodically. ec levels of 2.0 – 2.5 for medium-green-leaf varieties and 1.5 – 2.0 for dark-leaf varieties (in saturated media extract (sMe)) and a pH around 6.0 are ideal once the plant is established.

❆ Walk the crop daily if possible, looking at both roots and leaves. taking digital images is an excellent way of documenting the crop.

❆ continue scouting for insects and diseases by using sticky cards, looking at roots, and closely inspecting leaves.

From First Color to Market❆ Provide 3,500 to 4,500 foot candles of light during

mid october through early November for large, colorful bracts.

❆ For best color and to prevent fading, reduce light intensity to below 2,000 foot candles the last seven to 10 days of finishing.

❆ reduce fertilizer down to 50 – 75 ppm N the last two weeks of production, with one to two clear tap water leaches before shipping.

❆ Make sure the night temperatures are above 65°F/18°c during the bract expansion phase starting five weeks before finishing and ending two weeks before.

❆ For many varieties, day and night temperatures can be dropped to 62° – 63°F/16° – 17°c during the last two weeks to intensify bract color and help reduce bract bruising. see variety specific information for more details.

❆ Provide adequate spacing and air circulation around plants, especially during cool periods, to avoid late-season Botrytis.

DARK-LEAF RED COLLECTION

Orion™ Red, Early Orion™ Red and Olympus™ Red:orion red, early orion red and olympus red have a medium-vigorous growth habit. they have a beautiful deep, dark red color with excellent keeping quality. they work nicely in a range of container sizes (6" – 10"/15 – 25 cm) as pinched crops. However, because of the tendency of orion red, early orion red and olympus red to split when grown as a very mature plant, we recommend other dark-leaved red varieties, such as cortez™ or Mars™, for trees or large non-pinched crops (straight ups). if growers grow orion red, early orion red and olympus red for straight ups and trees, light from early september (night interruption) to the beginning of flower initiation to ensure proper scheduling and to help avoid bract splitting and premature flowering.

Mira™:this new variety for 2010 has attractive “oak-shaped” red bracts and medium growth habit. it has a 7.5 week response time and offers a different look compared to orion red or early orion red for the early season. it is more vigorous than red elf™ and needs to be growth regulated both before and after pinching with Florel (or other growth retardant if Florel is not available). Depending on temperatures, it might not need much growth regulation after the early Florel sprays. it is a good variety for cool finishing, but can also be grown under warmer temperatures for larger, showier bracts.

Novia™:this variety has an upright, medium-vigor growth habit. it offers outstanding vibrant red color and distinct upright bract presentation with oak-leaf shaped bract leaves. Like Mars, orion red, early orion red, Mira red and olympus red, Novia should be growth regulated both before and after pinching with Florel (or other growth retardant if Florel is not available). under moderate to warm temperatures, one or more additional growth retardant sprays might be needed after the initial Florel sprays.

Red Elf:start this compact variety for 6"/15 cm pots about two weeks earlier than medium vigorous varieties like Whitestar™, Maren™, Mars red, orion red, olympus red, etc. red elf features an attractive bright red bract color. it is recommended for smaller pot sizes (6"/15 cm or less) and baskets, and only needs

growth regulation under very warm conditions. in cases where orion red, early orion red or olympus red are too vigorous early on, try Red Elf or Mira Red for early season. For growth regulation, cycocel sprays at 1,000 ppm are usually sufficient. With a compact habit and tendency to split as a very mature plant, red elf is not recommended for trees or large specimen containers. it is an excellent variety for smaller pots and bulb pans with its compact and broad growth habit.

General Information for the Dark-Leaf Reds:Growth RegulationIdeally, Orion Red, Early Orion Red and Olympus are growth regulated weekly from the time they root, up to three weeks after pinching. the more compact the rooted cuttings are, the more uniform the branching after pinching. these varieties tend to grow vigorously from rooting until the third week of short days. the top three to four dominant branches tend to develop more rapidly than the bottom branches, so control to achieve round, strong plants. if this is not done correctly, the growth habit can be somewhat uneven and irregular. under cool climate conditions, use 1,000 ppm of cycocel weekly or as needed. under hot conditions where plants are growing more vigorously, use cycocel (1,000 ppm) + B-Nine (1,000 – 1,500 ppm) tank mixes. spray cycocel or cycocel + B-Nine mixes only to glisten the foliage. Bonzi can also be applied (instead of the cycocel/B-Nine sprays) beginning at 5 – 10 ppm. (Bonzi or cycocel/B-Nine sprays should not be needed for red elf as it is a very compact variety.) terminate Bonzi applications before short-day flower initiation to avoid potential flower delay. Florel sprays (up to three times at 500 ppm starting three to five days before pinch and again five to seven days after pinch, followed by a third application about seven to 10 days after the second spray if needed) work very well for even branching for medium to vigorous varieties. it can be substituted for other early growth regulator treatments described above. ensure that the Florel spray solution has a pH of 4.5– 5.0 to maximize its effectiveness.

Florel treatments are recommended instead of other early growth regulator treatments (e.g., Bonzi, cycocel and/or B-Nine) since the Florel acts as a moderate growth retardant in helping to keep the plants more compact. Florel is a very cost-effective chemical and is the preferred recommendation by syngenta Flowers for early

VarietY sPeciFic cuLturaL iNForMatioN

chemical growth control. apply Florel in early morning or early evening when the soil is moist and when the solution has plenty of time to be absorbed into the leaves. ensure the plants are actively growing, have good roots and are not under any kind of moisture or heat stress. Following the Florel application, leaves may bend downward for one to two days, but will return to a more upright orientation afterward. continue normal growth regulation depending on temperature and growth rate. terminate Florel applications before short-day flower initiation to avoid flower delay. orion red, early orion red, olympus red, Mira red and red elf, initiation is thought to occur naturally around september 15 – 18 for mid-Northern climates. For more southern warmer climates, initiation occurs later. in general, it is wise to terminate all chemical growth regulator spray treatments before flower initiation (especially B-Nine, Florel and Bonzi) to prevent the chance of flower delay and small bracts. in many cases cycocel alone can be used until the beginning of bract color without adverse effects.

Late-season Growth Control and Improved Bract Shape and DurabilityModerate late stretch is possible under warm conditions for the more vigorous growing varieties. to control stretch and have a tougher plant with better color retention and cyathia, a light Bonzi drench at ¼ – ½ ppm in the North and ½ – 1 ppm in the south (with drip or hand irrigation) one week to a maximum of three weeks before finishing or at ½ – 1"/1.27 – 2.54 cm below finished height, works very well. Be consistent with the drench volumes for each pot. Water plants the day prior and let them be at least 50% in color (two to three bracts showing good color). Late-season Bonzi drenches are recommended especially if there is a history of late stretch under warm conditions. Watch olympus red closely and wait as long as possible to drench this variety as it typically does not produce large size bracts like orion red or early orion red.

Drenching olympus red with a Bonzi drench too early can result in overly small bracts at maturity. (see later section on ultra-low-rate Bonzi drenches for early to mid-season growth control.) generally for late-season drenches, the longer you can wait before drenching (showing as much bract color as possible), the less chance of significant bract size reduction.

Leaf Removal for Optimum Habit and Even, Strong BranchesFor the most even branching and upright strong stems, it is recommended to remove the top two leaves with only the bottom three or four leaves

(nodes) remaining on the cutting. (For larger pots, more leaves remain after the top leaf removal). it is critical to do upper leaf removal on plants that receive a very soft pinch, as complete apical dominance might not be removed with the pinch. this slows the growth of top developing branches and provides optimum light for strong connections between main stem and branches. upper leaf removal acts as a mild growth retardant and generally results in a more compact, evenly branched plant. this is especially important for early orion red, orion red and olympus red, which tend to have more dominant branching at the top. generally all varieties (especially dark-leaf types) benefit from upper leaf removal around pinch time.

Spacinggrowers need to be aware of spacing on their crop early on when the plants are still pot tight on the bench. space the plants in a timely manner before they stretch. a good rule is to space when the new leaves that have developed after pinching begin touching each other from adjoining pots. Leaving plants together too close for too long will result in weak, stretched stems and a poor quality crop.

Ideal Amount of Branches six fully developed branches are ideal in 6" or 6.5"/15.24 cm or 16.51 cm pots using one plant per pot. one to two branches might not fully develop. Pinching on seven leaves (nodes) is a good bet to meet your bract requirements. For growing in 4" or 4.5"/10.16 cm or 11.43 cm pots with one plant per pot, pinch on four to five leaves for four to five fully developed bracts. For larger containers (e.g., 8" or 10"/20.32 cm or 25.4 cm) with multiple plants per pot, it is wise to pinch slightly higher as compared to the 6" or 6.5"/15.24 cm or 16.51 cm pots. the key is to understand what your bract requirements are for the crop and pinch appropriately. For example, for 10" pots with four plants per pot and a total bract requirement of 24 – 28 bracts, pinch each plant back to about seven leaves (nodes).

TemperatureBecause of their outstanding color stability, the dark red varieties bred by syngenta Flowers (except olympus) can be grown and finished warm (67° – 68°F/19° – 20°c night) or cool (62° – 64°F/16° – 18°c night). the bracts of olympus red tend to be on the smaller side, we recommend it to be finished warm (67° – 68°F/19° – 20°c night) up until two weeks before shipping, similar to medium green-leaf varieties. When the dark-leaf reds are grown and finished cool, the need for late growth regulating will be reduced. under cool finishing,

the bracts will be somewhat smaller and tighter, the color darker, the plant sturdier and the bracts more resistant to bruising. With the exception of olympus, all of the early dark reds can tolerate cold temperatures very well. therefore, root problems caused by low temperatures are greatly reduced. orion red and early orion red have strong root systems and medium-large bracts, making them excellent varieties for cooler finishing. Mira red has also been very good for cool finishing. Flowering can be delayed up to two weeks when grown at cool temperatures. Delay is dependent on when temperatures are dropped and how low they are maintained. under cool temperatures, watch for Botrytis on bracts and leaves, especially under damp or rainy conditions. see the later section on cold growing/finishing.

MARS ™ FAMILY

the Mars family includes Mars red '09, along with Mars Pink, White and Marble. Mars red '09 has an improved richer red color compared to the original Mars red; however, it tends to be slightly more compact and a few days later than the other Mars varieties. Mars varieties have an early to midseason bloom time, a superb V-shaped growth habit and strong upright stems. Mars varieties have a medium vigorous habit and grow very consistently, making them ideal mass-market varieties. As with all varieties, growers should graphically track the height of the crop, beginning after pinch, to get average height readings throughout production. Compare the tracked height of the crop against a predicted growth curve (showing the ideal desired height) to make better decisions as to when to apply growth retardants. graphical tracking software can be purchased for a nominal price. charts can be customized to each variety and to growers’ particular height requirements (some growers, instead of height charts, simply use yardsticks with marks of where they want the crop to be at various times of production. these marked yardsticks are developed in-house from grower experience and previous crops.)

For even branching, apply cycocel at 1000 ppm before and after the pinch to reduce stretching of the first internodes and reduce uneven branching. We suggest that for the most uniform branching and a moderate growth-retarding effect, apply Florel instead of other early growth regulators at 500 ppm three to five days before pinching and five to seven days after pinching. apply Florel early morning when the soil is moist and plants are actively growing with a good root system, and not stressed. under hot

conditions, a later third treatment might be necessary for the desired effect. terminate Florel applications before short-day flower initiation since flower delay might occur.

Late-season Growth ControlLate-season Bonzi drenches can be done with Mars varieties; however, watch the plants closely and wait as long as possible to drench. Mars varieties do not produce large bracts like orion red or early orion red. Drenching with Bonzi too early can result in overly small bracts at maturity. Wait as long as possible and get very close to your desired finish height before drenching Mars varieties. use similar rates as described earlier for Dark-Leaf reds.

Finishing TemperatureMars varieties have relatively small bracts and are best finished warm at 66° – 68°F/18° – 20°c night, to ensure good bract size and overall appearance. Mars bracts do not droop under high light and warm finishing temperatures. For this reason and its resistance to heat delay, Mars is an excellent choice for growers in the south.

CORTEZ ™ FAMILY

the cortez family includes varieties with a wide range of colors and smooth attractive bracts. the family includes several unique colors (Burgundy and electric Fire) and early red, Pink and White. Note that cortez early red replaces cortez red, which is about seven days earlier than the original variety. in recent trials, the cortez early red is a good choice for cold finishing (see later section on cold growing/finishing).

Growth Regulationif cortez is not vigorous enough, plant one week earlier. For even branching, apply cycocel at 1,000 ppm before and after the pinch to reduce stretching of the first internodes and to reduce uneven branching. apply Florel instead of other early growth regulators to achieve the most even branching at 500 ppm about three days before pinching and five to seven days after pinching (similar to Mars varieties).

Late-season Growth Controlgenerally cortez varieties are resistant to late-season stretch. apply a late-season Bonzi drench one to two weeks before shipping when the plants are almost at finished height with at least two to three bracts in full color. after the Bonzi drench the plants generally grow an additional ½ – 1"/1.27 – 2.54 cm depending on the drench rate used. apply the Bonzi at ¼ – ½ ppm in the North and ½ – 1 ppm in the south. at this

reduced rate, it can be done as a regular watering step through the watering system. Water plants the day prior.

Branchingcuttings from our stock farm in Mexico generally branch consistently because of our production methods. We have determined that tall mother stock plants that grow into each other and receive a minimum of two (if possible three) pinches consistently produced well-branching cuttings. the logic behind this is that the plants do not over-heat because of a cooler and more humid microclimate. the mother stock of most dark-leaf syngenta Flowers varieties is produced this way. cuttings with good branching from the farm can become leathery, hard and not branch well when produced in a very hot greenhouse. When temperatures are consistently above 90°F/32°c the first three to four weeks after transplant, the cortez varieties (especially electric Fire) do not branch well and the plants look hard with strapped-shaped leaves. if growers cannot keep the greenhouse temperature below 90°F/32°c early in production, try shading the plants. Place them in the coolest area of the greenhouse and syringe (mist) them with water during the hottest parts of the day to try to keep the leaf and stem temperatures cool. irrigating the pots during the hottest part of the day also helps cool the potting medium and reduces stress on the plant. cortez varieties are not recommended when these cooling techniques are not achievable. Pre-finished plants can be brought in when temperatures are cooler.

Growing Your Own Mother StockBranching can be uneven and reduced if stock is grown too warm, hard, dry or under other stressful conditions. cortez stock needs cool (below 85°F/29°c days) and moist conditions achieved with syringing the plants during the hot time of the day. We recommend that the cuttings be soft and about five to six weeks old. Making sure that the small buds are present at the base of the leaf petioles and do not have a black tip ensure the desired amount of breaks. after harvesting cuttings (or after receiving them as unrooted cuttings), do not stress them at anytime and propagate with plenty of shade (ideally 800 – 1,000 foot candles for the first two weeks).

Pinching Pinch and remove leaves for cortez two to three weeks after planting to check for future breaks, especially if cuttings are harvested from your own stock. Keep cortez moist and shaded to light intensities between 2,500 – 3,000 foot candles from potting until two weeks after pinching. Leaving

two extra leaves (nodes) on the mother stem after the pinch is a good insurance against insufficient branching. if the young lateral branches stall out and do not fully develop, the plants might have been stressed at some point. Florel sprays at 500 ppm before and a few days after the pinch ensures more uniform branching (apply early Florel sprays instead of cycocel). The Florel encourages the most even branching and does not cause young lateral shoots to appear in “blind” leaf axils (assess as mentioned above).

Spacingspace similar to the Mars varieties.

Finishing TemperatureFinish cortez early red and electric Fire warm at 67° – 68°F/19° – 20°c night or cool at 62° – 63°F/ 16° – 18°c night for the last two to four weeks. cool finishing causes the bracts to be somewhat smaller and the color more intense mainly towards the center. the cortez early red is a very good choice for finishing cool in mid october to November. Finish cortez Burgundy, Pink and White warm at 67° – 68°F/19° – 20°c nights and shaded to ~1,500 foot candles the last two weeks for better, more homogenous color. We have noticed if cortez Burgundy finishes very cool it can get an undesirable “sheen” or shiny tint on the bracts. When finishing cool, inspect roots regularly to make sure they are healthy and apply a fungicide as needed. Watch for Botrytis on bracts and leaves, especially under damp or rainy conditions.

SONORA ™ FAMILY

Growth Regulationif sonora does not appear to be vigorous enough, plant it one week earlier. apply cycocel at 1,000 ppm on an “as needed” basis after the pinch or according to prior experiences. two Florel applications at 500 ppm three to five days before pinching and five to seven days after pinching are sufficient for very even branching, and substitutes for early cycocel applications. terminate Florel applications before short-day flower initiation to avoid flower delay.

sonora leaves and expanding bracts sometimes get tucked down in the foliage during development. For the best overall appearance and to ensure bract development above the foliage canopy make sure that the growing tips are slightly above foliage during mid october. this may require carefully pulling the developing bracts out of the foliage and up on top of

the leaf canopy. For smaller 4"/10.16 cm pots (with less bracts per pot) this is not necessary.

Upright Bract Shape and Late-season Growth Controlunder warm and bright conditions the petioles of the sonora bracts tend to stretch, which results in a droopy look. By shading the plants to 1,500 foot candles in the last three to four weeks of the crop, or by finishing them cool, this symptom can be reduced.

if this is not possible, a Bonzi drench is the best option. Do this one to two weeks before shipping, with the plants being almost at finished height. after the Bonzi drench, the plants generally grow another ½ – 1"/1.27 – 2.54 cm depending on the drench rate. apply the Bonzi at ¼ – ½ ppm in the North and ½ – 1 ppm in the south. at this reduced rate, it can be done as a regular watering step through the watering system, but water the plants the previous day.

Finishing TemperatureFinish sonora™ red, Jingle, Marble and White glitter warm at 67° – 68°F/19° – 20°c nights or cool at 62° – 63°F/16° – 17°c nights for the last two to three weeks. cool finishing creates smaller, more upright bracts with more intense color. Finish sonora™ White and Pink warm at 67° – 68°F/19° – 20°c nights and shade to ~1,500 foot candles the last two weeks for better, more homogenous color. Finish sonora™ White glitter warm because of its naturally late flowering period and relatively small bracts. if finishing sonora varieties cool, inspect roots regularly to make sure they are healthy and apply a fungicide if needed. Watch for Botrytis on bracts and leaves, especially under damp or rainy conditions.

Timingsince sonora varieties can induce flowering early under cool temperatures (night temperatures <62°F/16°c from september 15 – 25), they can finish up to one week earlier than with 68°F/20°c night at that time.

COLOR & NOVELTYCOLLECTIONS

the color and Novelty collections contain an extensive assortment of varieties with striking colors in a range of growth habits and vigor. While many of the varieties are standard solid colors, several have colorful marbling or variegated foliage. a new novelty added to the collection for 2010 is ruby Frost™. ruby

Frost has an eye-catching color with unique rose to pink tones.

Growth Regulationsilverstar™ red, silverstar™ Marble, carousel™ Dark red, carousel™ Pink, Da Vinci™, cinnamon star™ and Mira™ White are relatively compact and ideally start one to two weeks before varieties with medium-vigorous habits, such as Mars varieties. this is especially true for carousel Dark red and the silverstar varieties, which are very compact. Marblestar™ has compact-medium vigor and should be growth regulated slightly less than cortez™ varieties. Maren™ and the new ruby Frost are slightly more vigorous and need more growth regulating than cortez varieties. Puebla™ and Whitestar™ are the most vigorous-growing of the group, and require the most growth regulation.

cycocel at 1,000 ppm, or under hot conditions, cycocel (1,000 ppm) + B-Nine (1,500 ppm) or Bonzi alone at 5 – 10 ppm applied before and after the pinch to reduce stretching of the first internodes and for more even branching. We suggest that for the most even branching and a moderate growth-retarding effect, apply Florel instead of other early growth regulators at 500 ppm about three to five days before pinching and five to seven days after pinching. remember to cut off all Florel applications before flower initiation.

Late-season Growth Controlto control late-season growth, a Bonzi drench can be done one to two weeks before shipping, with the plants almost at finished height and with at least two bracts in full color.

Spacingspacing should be done as described earlier.

Finishing TemperatureFor better bract size and color, finish silverstar Marble and medium-green-leaf varieties warm between 67° – 68°F/19° – 20°c night until one week before shipping, then drop the temperature slowly to 64°F/17°c. Watch for the early signs of Botrytis on leaves and bracts on these medium green-leaf varieties when finished too cool at the end. Finishing dark-leaf varieties Da Vinci™ and cinnamon star™, cooler (62° – 63°F/16° – 17°c) the last three weeks results in better color and more contrast within the bract.

HoW to root uNrooteD cuttiNgs

Upon Arrival✓ unpack and stick immediately

✓ store opened boxes at 50°F/10°c for no more than 24 hours and prevent cutting dehydration during storage (>75% relative Humidity).

✓ if cuttings can’t be stuck immediately or stored in a cooler, then lay opened bags on propagation bench and begin misting.

Temperaturesuntil the cuttings are fully rooted soil: 73° – 75°F/23° – 24°c air: 71° – 73°F/22° – 23°c

after good root development soil: 71° – 73°F/22° – 23°c air: 69° – 71°F/21° – 22°c

Most varieties are generally well rooted in four weeks using these recommended temperatures.

Rooting HormonesMany growers feel that they do not need to use rooting hormones if they have good bottom heat and good healthy cuttings. syngenta Flowers suggests that rooting hormones slightly reduce rooting time and even out rooting along the bench. some growers use powdered material while others use liquid types (e.g., Dip N’ grow, rhizopon iBa, rootonic). When applying, use a 0.1% – 0.3% iBa or combination iBa + Naa applied only at the base of the cutting. trials are recommended before using new rooting compounds or concentrations.

HumidityHigh humidity (especially for the first five days) combined with minimal air movement, heavy shade and careful misting are key factors in producing high quality rooted cuttings (the higher the humidity, the less mist required).

Misting✓ use a fine mist, applying enough to wet the foliage

but not to the point of drip.

✓ adjust mist daily according to weather and conditions of cuttings (mist at night for only the first few days).

✓ Mist so the leaves do not roll. A few hanging leaves around noon are acceptable and are a sign that the cuttings are not over-misted. running too dry causes delays in rooting and possible leaf loss.

✓ avoid air movement across the leaf surface, especially in the first week.

✓ avoid standing water on the leaves if possible.

✓ If the cuttings look stressed on sunny days, shade is recommended rather than additional mist.

use a spreader-sticker (like capsil 30, at a rate of 2 – 4 ounces/100 gallons depending on the hardness of the water) on turgid cuttings one to two times during the crop cycle (starting once cuttings are turgid) to reduce leaf surface tension and improve moisture uptake into the leaves. capsil 30 causes the water to spread more evenly across the leaf surface. capsil 30 can also be used as a pre-plant dip on cuttings at a rate of 3 – 4 oz/100 gallons. avoid dipping the cut end.

Growing Media✓pH: between 5.6 – 6.0 (measured in a

saturated slurry).

✓High air volume media.

✓to avoid root damage, the rooting cube should not dry out completely after roots form.

✓We recommend course peat with 30% perlite or other coarse amendment added.

✓avoid saturated media during propagation, which can delay root growth.

FertilizerStart the fertilization program early. Poinsettias require a lot of mist during propagation and leaves can get heavily leached of nutrients, especially medium-green-leaf varieties. Many times the first leaves that develop on a rooted cutting are yellowish green, caused by lack of fertilizer. the first feeding to the media can be done 10 days after sticking with 100 ppm N and K. once the roots begin to form, start with 150 ppm N and K and gradually increase

to 200 ppm N and K. some growers sub-irrigate the rooted cuttings to avoid overhead fertilizer burn; be aware of the potential disease spread along the bench using such setups. We have seen a few cases of Rhizoctonia fungi moving along the bench and infecting cuttings in sub-irrigation troughs. Finishing all overhead fertilization by 9:30 a.m. helps prevent foliage burn. to be safe, rinse off with plain water before the fertilizer solution dries on the leaves. stay away from high phosphorus concentrations applied over the foliage, as this can stunt the young leaves if the foliage is not rinsed off afterwards with clean water. use primarily calcium nitrate + potassium nitrate (cal-Mag) formulations during propagation, such as 14 – 0 – 14 or 13 – 2 – 13. an occasional 20 – 10 – 20 or 15 – 15 – 15 type can be used if the plants need to be greened up before moving out of the propagation area.

Shade Until good callus development: Heavy shading (80% – 90% or 800 – 1,100 foot candles of light) is recommended under sunny conditions to reduce the need for misting; the less mist, the less bleaching of the foliage and the less incidence of Botrytis.

After good callus formation: 65 – 75% shade or 1,500 – 1,800 foot candles of light. When the plants are getting well rooted (~ three weeks), light intensities can go up to 3,500 foot candles.

Diseases and Plant ProtectionPythium✓ avoid drying out of media.

✓ Subdue Maxx at ½ to ¾ oz/100 gal, about three weeks after sticking.

Botrytis✓ Careful misting.

✓ Daily cleaning of plant debris.

✓ Shading to 800 – 1,000 foot candles.

✓ Wider spacing.

✓ spray fungicides only when cuttings are turgid: Daconil ultrex either alone or in combination with another fungicide (such as chipco 26019) at ¾ rate is recommended. Decree works very well at 1 lb/100 gal and should be alternated with the Daconil and chipco 26019 sprays. Zerotol applied periodically at a 1:300 dilution can also be used

to control Botrytis. care must be taken to prevent over-application since there have been reported cases of leaf burning using repeated applications of Zerotol and commercial grade hydrogen peroxide. Conduct trials first. growers have also had good results with Heritage and Medallion for Botrytis control.

Erwinia✓ Propagation area has to be clean and

disinfected.

✓ Daily cleaning of infected cuttings reduces spread of the disease.

✓ Keep temperature lower than 78°F/25°C. Erwinia is always worse when the propagation temperature is running extremely warm.

✓ Careful misting.

✓ First two nights soil temperature 68° – 70°F/ 20° – 21°c.

✓ shading to 800 – 900 foot candles.

✓ spraying Phyton 27 or camelot on stock plants a few days before taking cuttings should give some protection to the cuttings. usually the worst cases of Erwinia show up in propagation when unrooted cuttings have over-heated during the shipping process.

Rhizopus✓ Not a common disease, but easily confused with

Botrytis. it is best to get the disease diagnosed by a reputable disease lab.

✓ use Mancozeb-containing products, like Dithane or Protect, sprayed two days after sticking and later as needed.

Rhizoctonia✓ Drench with Cleary’s 3336 WP or OHP 6672 WP

at 1 lb/100 gal, three and 10 days after sticking, or use Terraclor 75 once at 4 oz/100 gal or Medallion at 1 packet/100 gal or Contrast at 6 oz/100 gal.

✓ Do not overhead water if on flood benches, as spores will be distributed everywhere.

✓ clean infected plants daily.

✓ Do not stick cuttings more than 1" deep.

ProDuctioN oF FiNisHeD PLaNtsFroM rooteD cuttiNgs

Upon Arrival✓ Plant immediately, or

✓ Distribute strips on benches, or

✓ Keep in cooler with lids opened at 50°F/10°c for no more than 24 hours.

Potting✓ Plant top of the wedge (or other rooting media) at

or slightly below soil line—avoid planting too deep to help avoid Rhizoctonia infection.

✓ if using oasis foam, do not remove excess foam around the root ball.

✓ immediately after potting, drench with a tank mix of subdue Maxx at 1 oz/100 gal (or truban WP at 8 oz/100 gal) + terraclor at 4 oz/100 gal (or 1 oz of Medallion/100 gal, or one of the fungicides containing thiophanate-methyl, such as cleary’s 3336 WP or oHP 6672 WP). Banrot WP at 12 oz/100 gal can also be used as a broad-spectrum fungicide drench. alude is a recently registered product that can be rotated with subdue or truban to control Pythium/Phytophthora. it is applied as a foliar spray at 64 oz/100 gal and works systemically throughout the plant.

Media✓ pH: between 5.6 – 6.0 (measured in a

saturated slurry).

✓ Excellent, porous media with 70% coarse peat plus 30% perlite or other coarse amendment: 20 – 30% high quality coir or parboiled rice hulls have also been used as a substitution for peat. conduct new media trials with several different poinsettia varieties. in the case of rice hulls, make sure to check with your supplier on the overall quality of the hull product.

FertilizationExact program depends on the variety, condition, age of the plants, climate, water quality, watering practices and adjustments based on media analysis. Start feeding with a balanced fertilizer early. Very often poinsettias lack fertilizer in the first two to three weeks after planting, especially if they are pale and hungry coming out of propagation. this results in stretchy, soft, under-nourished (ca)

plants with the result of stem breakage at the end of the crop.

IF IN DOUBT, LEACH OUT. If you see problems throughout the crop that you are unsure of how to correct, send digital images to your supplier or other specialists and a media and leaf sample to a lab (to have a diagnosis for your records). Leach each out twice, first with clean water, followed with a balanced fertilizer at about 200 ppm N.

constant feed with 225 – 250 ppm N for dark-leafed varieties and 250 – 275 ppm N for medium-green-leaf varieties is ideal, depending on light level, age and growth rate. Periodic leaching with tap water is usually needed to help keep fertilizer salts in the media in the desired range (see below).

In the beginning, up to 30% of the total N should be ammonium for optimum leaf expansion. If plants look strong with good leaf expansion, reduce ammonium to 15% by the end of September and maintain until the end of October. Brittle roots that snap easily are a sign of deficient ammonium levels.

For softer growth, use Peter’s 20 – 10 – 20 or similar ammonium-containing fertilizers until october 1, then alternate with 14 – 0 – 14, 13 – 2 – 13 or 15 – 0 – 15 until November 1. afterwards, use strictly 14 – 0 – 14, 13 – 2 – 13 or 15 – 0 – 15 until market. use 17 – 5 – 17, 15 – 5 – 15 or similar cal-Mag fertilizers early on for harder growth. Molybdenum and magnesium usually have to be added to the feeding program, if not already supplied in higher amounts with the other regular fertilizers. use calcium nitrate + potassium nitrate type fertilizers that contain magnesium nitrate (i.e 14 – 0 – 14, 13 – 2 – 13, 15 – 5 – 15) for getting that extra magnesium into the plants. Drench plants with magnesium sulfate at 1 – 2 lbs/100 gal when the early stages of magnesium deficiency are seen. add Molybdenum to fertilizers as supplemental ammonium molybdate or sodium molybdate.

VERY IMPORTANT: Ideally, a complete media analysis should be done every two weeks, starting two weeks before planting to catch potential problems.

Recommendations for the first month of the crop and increased by 25 – 50% later on depending on leaf color of the variety. An optimum media analysis report:

200 ppm Nitrogen 1 ppm Manganese

25 ppm Phosphorus 0.5 ppm Zinc

200 ppm Potassium 0.25 ppm copper

150 ppm calcium 0.4 ppm Boron

80 ppm Magnesium 0.05 ppm Molybdenum

2 ppm iron

Keep the soluble salt level at 1.5 mS/cm for the first few weeks, and then 2.0 – 2.5 mS/cm later on for medium-green varieties and 1.5 – 2.0 for dark-leaf varieties (in a saturated media extract, SME), using a clean water salt level of <0.3. Root tips can turn yellowish and burn when the media EC is too high.

A tissue analysis report:

Nitrogen 4.0 – 6.0% iron 100 – 300 ppm

Phosphorous 0.3 – 0.5% copper 4 – 25 ppm

Potassium 2.0 – 3.5% Boron 30 – 100 ppm

sulphur 0.25 – 0.70% Manganese 100 – 300 ppm

calcium 1.2 – 2.0% Zinc 40 – 100 ppm

Magnesium 0.6 – 1.0% Molybdenum 0.2 – 0.5 ppm

spray calcium chloride (Lab or reagent grade) once per week at 1 lb/100 gal from mid-october to the end of the crop to prevent bract edge burn. the dihydrate form (cacl2 • H2o) is the most common and easiest to use. use with capsil or other similar spray adjuvant to increase calcium uptake into the leaf and to help prevent residue buildup on the leaf surface.

constantly reduce fertilization from November 10 on to about 25% of the original strength before the sale. two strong clear water leaches should be done just before shipping to reduce bract edge burn and root rot at the consumer level.

Bract Edge Burn (and secondary Botrytis) Control✓ Calcium chloride sprays at 1 lb/100 gal once a

week from mid-October on.

✓ During bract formation, increase calcium levels in the bract by increasing transpiration rate with lowered greenhouse humidity.

✓ apply calcium nitrate to the media every third feeding from planting until three weeks before finishing and then every second feeding, if not already in the feed program.

✓ a healthy root system is very important to prevent bract edge burn. High media ec and root disease predispose bracts to bract edge burn.

✓ Leach twice thoroughly with clean water before shipping to prevent root damage when drying out later.

✓Decree WDG, sprayed in combination with Capsil spray adjuvant, works very well against Botrytis at the end of the crop and during shipping with minimal residue (spray to glisten). Conduct trials first with any late-season sprays to evaluate any possible problems under your particular conditions.

Temperatureideally for all varieties: 68° – 73°F day/66° – 68°F night (20° – 23°c day/19° – 20°c night) is recommended until two to three weeks prior to shipping; towards the end of the crop, slowly drop down to 65°F day/65°F night (18°c ) for medium-green-leaf and 62° – 63°F/16° – 17°c for most dark-leaf varieties.

For varieties with dark green leaves that are not white or pink, night temperature can be 62° – 63°F/16° – 17°c. consequently, bracts will be smaller and more upright, the color more intense, and the flowering delayed from several days up to one week. Dark-leaved white and pink varieties turn creamier white and salmon colored, respectively, if finished at 62° – 63°F/16° – 17°c. if plants are grown on the “cooler side,” they should be planted and pinched about one week earlier than usual. again, watch for Botrytis on leaves and bracts, and inspect roots regularly when finished under cool temperatures. Medium-green-leaf whites and pinks (e.g., Whitestar, Maren, etc.) are generally the first to show signs of late-season Botrytis infections.

If plants are behind schedule, or for the maximum possible root and plant development, 74°F/23°C day and night temperatures until flower initiation are recommended.

a constant 68°F/20°c day and night is ideal to slow down plant growth for a compact plant habit without growth regulator use.

Drop “cool morning” temperatures by 5°F/-15°c (8° – 10°F/-13° to -12°c if the humidity is low) for two to three hours before first light, in addition to chemical growth regulator treatments.

Negative DiF with 65°F/18°c day and 68°F/20°c night works great to reduce the growth of poinsettias, without running into Botrytis problems, caused by low night temperature and consequent high humidity.

Balance high daytime temperatures (greater than 76°F/24°c) with cool morning strategy and growth regulator treatments. try using Florel (as described earlier) as an early growth regulator choice to keep plants compact and more even.

Cold Growing/Finishingrecently, there has been significant press about cold finishing of poinsettias. syngenta Flowers conducted extensive trials across North america with many varieties to better understand the effects of cold growing/finishing on growth and flowering. For more information on cold growing, visit our website, www.syngentaflowersinc.com. cold growing/finishing yields fuel savings, less chemical growth regulation, lower insect pressure and sturdier plants, but care must be taken when growing/finishing cold. some colors, such as reds, pinks and marbles, intensify; however, whites become creamier. the keys to cold growing/finishing are below.

Be conservative with low temperatures and don’t go below 60°F/16°C for any significant length of time. temperatures that are too low can dramatically delay flowering and reduce bract size. run trials first by lowering average temperatures just a few degrees over conventional warm growing protocols.

Know your varieties. the best varieties for cold growing/finishing are those that have early flower response times, good vigor, naturally large bracts and strong root systems. the best syngenta Flowers varieties for cold growing are early orion red and orion red. these two varieties maintain adequate height and bract size under relatively low temperatures (e.g., 62°F/17°c average daily temperature [aDt]) beginning in early-mid october. other varieties that do well when low temperatures begin in mid- to late october are Mira red, Mira White, cortez early red and carousel Dark red.

Monitor irrigation closely and do not over water plants. With colder temperatures, plants use less water and pots stay wetter longer. Monitor roots regularly and apply preventative fungicides if needed.

also watch for Botrytis on those varieties that are more prone to infection.

Reduce early chemical growth regulation somewhat compared to normal “warm” growing. Do not put an over-growth-regulated plant into a cold environment. try to keep the plant at the top of its height tracking curve before lowering temperatures. cold growing/finishing makes plants shorter so be sure to schedule plenty of time to get the plant up to size before entering the cold regime.

It is best to wait until early October and the beginning of bract coloration before dropping temperatures. use the natural warmth of august to september to build the plant and the naturally cool periods of october to November to save fuel and finish. the later plants go into the cold environment in october, the less that height, bract size and flower delay will be affected.

Humidity✓ Keep below 75% to avoid powdery mildew and

Botrytis.

✓ Keep air circulating.

✓ Maintain proper air exchange, especially during cloudy, rainy weather at the end of the crop; vent to remove humid air before sundown.

✓ the tighter the spacing, the more important humidity control will be necessary.

Light✓ 3,500 – 4,500 foot candles until the middle

of october.

✓ about 3,000 foot candles until three weeks before shipping.

✓ and 2,000 – 2,500 foot candles for the last two weeks of the crop are usually ideal.

✓ the sonora family prefers to be finished at 1,500 – 2,000 foot candles for the last two to three weeks of the crop to help prevent droopy bracts.

Avoiding Stem Breakage✓ Do not pinch too high (the number of leaves

below the pinch should be one to two more than the number of bracts that are required). treat cortez differently (see cortez cultural information).

✓ use upright varieties like sonora, Novia and Mars.

✓ Supplying high light levels beginning seven days after planting until pinching and seven days after pinching until four weeks before finishing promotes strong joints of branches and the main stem, which leads to stronger plants. Removing the upper two original leaves of the cutting at the time of pinch allows for better light penetration into the plant and makes for stronger and more even branching.

✓ supply high calcium levels in fertilization.

✓ Use growth retardants before and after the pinch to achieve tight first internodes of ¾ – 1"/1.91 – 2.54 cm.

✓ grow plants that are more compact at finish (14" – 15"/35.56 – 38.1 cm for 6"/15.24 cm pots).

Schedulingthe following schedule is for medium-sized plants of all syngenta Flowers varieties except:

Pinch and plant Marblestar, cinnamon star and sonora White glitter one week earlier or growth regulate less.

Pinch (and ideally also plant) silverstar varieties, red elf, carousel Dark red, carousel Pink, Mira White and Da Vinci one to two weeks earlier.

the plant and pinch weeks for:

s = south and N = North relate to:

s = high light combined with relatively high day (and night) temperatures and high humidity.

N = low light combined with relatively low day temperatures.

Final desired height also influences planting and pinching schedules.

Potsize

Plant/Pot

Plant(week)

Pinch(week)

Height(incl. pot)

s N s N

2" – 3" 1 37 35 39 38 6" – 8"

4" – 41/2" 1 36 35 38 37 9" – 11"

6" 1 33 32 36 35 14" – 16"

61/2" 1 32 31 35 34 16" – 17"

7" 2 – 3 31 30 34 33 18" – 20"

8" 3 30 29 33 32 22" – 24"

10" 4 28 27 31 30 26" – 30"

Pinching✓ six fully developed branches are ideal in 6" or

6.5"/15.24 cm or 16.51 cm pots using one plant per pot. as one to two branches might not fully develop, pinching on seven leaves (nodes) is a good bet to meet your bract requirements.

✓ For growing in 4" or 4.5"/10.16 cm or 11.43 cm pots with one plant per pot, pinch on four to five leaves for four to five fully developed bracts.

✓ For larger containers (e.g., 8" or 10"/20.32 cm or 25.4 cm) with multiple plants per pot, it is wise to pinch slightly higher as compared to the 6” or 6.5"/15.24 cm or 16.51 cm pots. the key is to understand the bract requirements for appropriate crop and pinch. For example, for 10"/25.4 cm pots with four plants per pot and a total bract requirement of 24 – 28 bracts, the grower should pinch each plant back to about seven leaves (nodes).

Height ControlUse some kind of graphical tracking system. graphical tracking software can be purchased and downloaded for a nominal price. charts can be customized to each variety and to the grower’s particular height requirements.

With even day and night temperatures chemical height control is minimal for many varieties.

With day temperatures more than 5°F/-15°c higher than night temperatures, cycocel treatment is sufficient in Northern climates. treat at 750 – 1,000 ppm, one to four times, one to four weeks after pinching.

With very high day temperatures (greater than 80°F/27°c) and high night temperatures (greater than 70°F/21°c) combined treatments of cycocel and B-Nine may be necessary one to three times, one to four weeks after pinching at 1,000 ppm cycocel and 1,000 – 1,500 ppm B-Nine. Bonzi sprays also can be done at 5 – 10 ppm until short days begin. see variety specific variety cultural information section for additional details.

Mid-season Ultra-low-rate Bonzi Drench When plants are taller or growing faster than desired and cycocel spray applications are not providing adequate growth control, an early to mid-season (late september through october) low-rate Bonzi drench provides additional growth control without delaying color, distorting bracts or significantly reducing the bract size. recommended drench rate after flower

initiation and prior to 50% color is 0.05 (1/20) to 0.1 (1/10) ppm. the 0.1 (1/10) ppm rate is used on vigorous growing varieties and when moderate growth control is desired. the 0.05 (1/20) ppm rate is used on medium growing varieties or when the growth rate needs to be slowed down slightly. try to keep total accumulated amount (from several drenches) to a maximum of 0.25 (¼) ppm. the drench volume needs to be consistent from pot to pot. a good starting volume is about 1 fl oz/1" pot diameter. the early Bonzi drench can be reapplied as needed, so start at the 0.05 (1/20) ppm rate. Do not drench at rates higher than 0.25 (¼) ppm until plants are at least 50% colored to prevent delaying color and reducing bract size.

A Bonzi drench rate that is too high affects bract development. Only trial the ultra-low-rate Bonzi drench the first year to determine the best rate to apply for your growing conditions. Always have control plants of similar size that haven’t been treated to give an idea of the treatment’s growth-regulating effect.

ultra-low rate Bonzi drenches are more applicable for very warm, southern growing conditions; however, some Northern growers have used these ultra-low rate drenches successfully for very vigorous-growing varieties.

The ultra-low rate drenches described work best for controlling very vigorous varieties that produce large bracts.

For traditional late-season growth control, Bonzi drenches in the North at ¼–½ ppm (0.25 – 0.5ml/gal or 0.75 – 1.5 oz/100 gal) or in the south at ½ – 1 ppm (0.5 – 1ml/gal or 1.5 – 3 oz/100 gal). this can be done when the plants are about ½ – 1"/1.27 – 2.54 cm below the desired height and/or one to two weeks (up to three weeks in the south) before shipping. if the effect is not strong enough, the treatment can be repeated. at these low rates, the Bonzi drenches can be done through the watering system. the plants have to be watered the day prior. it is also important to keep drench volumes consistent from pot to pot to ensure a consistent effect throughout the crop.

Gibberellic Acid (G.A.): For a moderate boost of growth, a 2 – 3 ppm spray of g.a. using Pro-gibb 4% (4 ml/10 gal) or 2 – 3 ppm Fascination is recommended. Both products are recommended with the Fascination appearing to be a bit more effective and gives a more desirable result. these rates can be doubled if a stronger boost of growth is required; however, we recommend starting with the

rates listed above. Within a few days of application new leaves become light green, bigger and upright. the maximum growth/stretch happens about two weeks after application. (Fascination appears to work more quickly.) two to four inches of growth are possible within that time frame. spray plants anytime during production; however, experience shows that earlier sprays (up to mid-october and beginning of color development) appear to make a better finished product. Very late sprays lead to upward cupping of bracts and some “necking.” if the plants become too vigorous, slow down with cycocel sprays or Bonzi drenches (see earlier sections).

Conduct small trials in good years before large scale applications for the know-how when the crisis hits. Generally, more vigorous varieties have more of a growth response from the application versus compact varieties. Under very warm growing conditions, plants respond to the chemical quickly and efficiently.

If plants color too slowly, use 3 ppm of gibberellic acid as a spray 10 days before shipping for more even and quicker coloration. if they are not sold when they are ready, drench with Bonzi to avoid late stretch. again, conduct trials first.

FlorelFlorel applied at 500 ppm three to five days before and five to seven days after pinching, leads to shorter internodes, more even branching and a rounder finished plant. Moisten media, treat early in the morning and check for a good root system. under hot conditions, Florel may not be as effective, so up to three applications at 500 ppm may be necessary. to ensure maximum efficiency of Florel, apply to plants when the solution remains on the plant for a relatively long time for absorption. a spray adjuvant, such as capsil, helps with absorption into the leaf surface. Keeping the Florel spray solution at a pH of 4.5 – 5.0 also maximizes its effectiveness. the Florel treatments should be done instead of other growth regulator treatments.

Consistency of Bract Color✓ Provide even heat distribution.

✓ Provide good air flow.

✓ Provide even moisture level throughout the crop.

✓ Make sure plants have a good root system.

✓ avoid excess salt levels in the media.

✓ eliminate nighttime light intrusion (if you can read a newspaper, then there’s too much light).

✓ Watch for shaded areas in the greenhouse (e.g., gutters and shade curtains) that might cause delays in color development.

Diseases and Plant ProtectionPythium✓ soil Drench: subdue Maxx at 1 oz/100 gal every

four weeks starting right after planting. alternate the subdue Maxx with truban WP at 6 – 8 oz/100 gal (or truban ec at 4 oz/100 gal). (rinse truban off of foliage to prevent possible phytotoxicity.) also try using alude. it is applied as a foliar spray at 64 oz/100 gal and provides systemic protection from Pythium attack. Note: Banrot contains the same active ingredient that is in truban (along with thiophanate-methyl). some growers have success using rootshield g pre-incorporated in the media or Plantshield Hc drenched one week after making the first chemical drench. a half rate reapplication of Plantshield Hc is recommended midway through the crop. continue to scout the root system and treat with traditional fungicides if needed. We have also heard several favorable comments from growers using other biological products, such as companion and actinovate sP, for Pythium control.

✓ Use the best coarse peat available.

✓ Keep moist, but avoid severely drying out, over-watering and high salt levels.

✓ If the soil gets dry, use clear water before feeding.

✓ After possible root damage, drench with subdue Maxx at 1 oz/100 gal.

Botrytis✓ Maintain good air movement and low humidity

(heat and vent simultaneously under moist and rainy conditions) especially at the end of the crop.

✓ Water overhead to allow time for foliage to dry before sunset.

✓ spray with either Daconil ultrex or chipco 26019, or a mixture of both, at ¾ rate. alternate these sprays with Decree at 1 lb/100 gal for control. using capsil spray adjuvant at 3 – 4 oz/100 gal with these chemicals reduces residue, burn and

improves efficacy. (Double check the fungicide label to see if capsil is needed.) Heritage, Phyton 27, rhapsody and actinovate sP (rhapsody and actinovate sP are both biological products) are also labeled for Botrytis control. Decree (highly recommended), Heritage and Phyton 27 are the best choices for control once bracts are in color.

✓ exotherm termil works well up until the bracts show color; however, some growers use this product all the way through full color. (Note that the label forbids the use on “flowers” of poinsettias.) apply when the humidity is low, the air is moving and no condensation is on or between the leaves. the bracts of some varieties, such as orion red and early orion red, bleach when using termil. use care with termil for bracts in color. We recommend using other options, such as Decree (with capsil) sprays, towards the end of the crop cycle.

Powdery MildewPowdery mildew continues to appear on poinsettia crops around the country. to prevent it, maintain good air movement and low humidity. apply strike, eagle (the replacement for systhane), terraguard and Milstop (or other biological chemicals labeled for powdery mildew, such as rhapsody and actinovate sP) preventatively at the rates mentioned below at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of october if a history of powdery mildew exists. rates to use: strike 50 WDg at ½ oz/100 gal, eagle 20 eW at 8 oz/100 gal, terraguard at 8 oz/100 gal, or Milstop at 2.5 lbs/100 gal. curative control will require at least two applications. Products reported to be safe for bracts include: cygnus, Heritage, Milstop, Phyton-27, strike 50 WDg, terraguard or Zerotol. Do not over-spray since growth regulating effects (compact growth and puckered bracts) can occur with some of these chemicals (e.g., strike, terraguard, eagle [systhane]). severe flower delay has been reported when using repeated sprays of strike and terraguard. Zerotol can leave marks on infected bracts where the fungal colonies were located.

RhizoctoniaMaintain proper salt level and moisture content of the media and avoid planting too deep to prevent Rhizoctonia. Drench with a thiophanate-methyl product at full label rate, alternating with Medallion (1 oz/100 gal) or terraclor 75 (4 oz/100 gal) as needed. thiophanate-methyl products include oHP 6672, cleary’s 3336 and Fungo Flo. Hurricane, a

new product, is now available for broad fungi control containing the active ingredients of both Medallion and subdue Maxx. experiment with biological products, like companion and actinovate sP, which are labeled for Rhizoctonia control.

Scabalthough there has not been any recent outbreaks of poinsettia scab (sphaceloma poinsettiae), growers need to recognize symptoms and know control measures. Look for raised “bleached white” scab-like lesions along stems and on leaves. other symptoms include excessive elongation of the infected stems.

For prevention and control, spray with eagle 20 eW at 8 oz/100 gal, or (for prevention) mancoze containing materials, such as Fore, Dithane or Protect. control has also been achieved using combination products, such as spectro or consyst and Phyton 27.

Insect ControlBiological control programs against whiteflies (encarsia formosa, encarsia transvena and eretmocerus californicus), thrips (a. cucumeris) or fungus gnats (steinerema feltiae, Hypoaspis miles) are working well for many growers. extensive trials and good working relationships with suppliers and universities seem to be critical for their success.

if high populations of thrips and whiteflies are present, chemical control very often has to be applied to initially diminish populations. constant movement of these pests from outside into the greenhouses makes chemical applications necessary.

WhitefliesWhiteflies continue to be the major insect pest on poinsettias. to keep whitefly populations in check, most growers tend to use media applications of neonicotinoid class chemicals (e.g. Marathon, Flagship, safari, celero) about three to four weeks after planting. it is important to include other pesticide chemistry into the whitefly control program to preserve the effectiveness of these neonicotinoids. apply tristar, an additional neonicotinoid product, as a foliar spray only. spray or drench celero, Flagship and safari.

Before the neonicotinoid soil application, endeavor, scimitar cs, talstar, sanmite, Distance, enstar ii, Botanigard, Naturalis-o, Preclude, attain, thiodan/ thionex, Nicotine smoke generators, talus and Judo are among those products labeled for whiteflies.

Judo has been especially effective in trials and appears to control the Q biotype whitefly. Distance (6 oz per 100 gal) works well as a spray before the first neonicotinoid soil application and as a second spray application right before bracts begin to color. Distance is not labeled for bracts in color. if late-season control is needed, the best wet-spray alternative appears to be spray applications of sanmite, Marathon ii, Flagship, talus or tristar using a spray adjuvant like capsil. always trial a few plants first under sunny conditions to see whether damage is possible and what it would look like. usually damage is visible two to three days after the treatment. take digital photos of any damage for your files.

Q Biotype Whiteflya new biotype of the silverleaf or sweet potato whitefly (the Q biotype of Bemisia tabaci) was discovered on plants in arizona about four years ago. this Q biotype (versus the current B biotype) is significantly more resistant to pesticides and could ultimately become a major problem on poinsettia crops. the Q biotype strain is visually identical to the current B strain and can only be determined by DNa testing in the lab. the Q biotype is the common type of whitefly found in the Mediterranean Basin on tomato and other vegetable crops. until a few years ago, it had not been reported in the u.s. the society of american Florists (saF) and american Nursery and Landscape association (aNLa) have been supporting research to find out the best management solutions for controlling the Q biotype whitefly. studies are currently being conducted at the u. of california and other universities to determine which chemicals are effective against the Q biotype. reports from researchers have mentioned that the Q biotype is more resistant than our common B biotype whitefly to pesticides such as Distance (pyriproxyfen) and talus (buprofezin), as well as neonicotinoid types such as Marathon (imidacloprid), celero (clothanodin) and Flagship (thiamethoxam). it appears that safari and tristar (other neonicotinoid class chemicals) will be effective. growers need to monitor whitefly populations more carefully now, especially if using neonicotinoids (Marathon, celero, Flagship, etc.). From recent entomological reports from experts in the field, the Q biotype does not appear to be resistant to sanmite, Judo and avid insecticides. continuing research is currently underway at several institutions. if you have unusual whitefly problems that are not being controlled with pesticides, then contact your state entomologist for further recommendations.

ThripsThe importance of working with sticky cards, having sufficient weed control, and (if necessary) installing insect screens cannot be over emphasized.

as neonicotinoids generally do not work well against thrips, keep the rising populations in check with other chemicals. avid, Botanigard, conserve, Mesurol, Naturalis-o, tame-orthene tank mix (now available as total release aerosol), overture and thiodan/thionex are some of the products used successfully. (there have been some recent reports of thrips resistance to conserve, so rotate between these different chemicals if conserve is being used for the spray program for controlling thrips.) strive to achieve control before bracts are present. after bracts form, use conserve or avid. again, make trials first using these sprays when bracts are in color.

Mitescyclamen mite, spider mite and Lewis mite infestations are becoming more common on poinsettias. there are many available chemicals for treating mites, including several new types. Miticides approved for spider mites on poinsettias include: akari, avid, Floramite, Hexygon, ovation, Judo, sanmite, tetrasan, synergy and ultra-fine oil. treat poinsettias with bracts with avid, Floramite or sanmite. control cyclamen mites with avid, thiodan/thionex, synergy or ultra-fine oil. contorl Lewis mites with avid, Floramite, sanmite, synergy or ultra-fine oil. significant restrictions on reapplication intervals apply to many miticides. consult the resistance management section of the pesticide label for details. tetrasan is a mite growth regulator, while Hexygon and ovation are ovicides.

Fungus Gnats, Shore Fliesgood sanitation procedures are still the first line of defense against these potentially destructive pests. greenclean, green-shield, Physan, triathlon and Zerotol are examples of products that can be used according to label directions to control algae that serves as a breeding area for fungus gnats and shoreflies. Keep floors, walkways and sidewalls of greenhouses free from algae. improve drainage in the greenhouse as needed to avoid standing water. Fungus gnat larvae can destroy roots and tunnel into

stem tissue causing death of the plant. adults have been shown to move disease organisms from pot to pot in their travels. Fungus gnats and shoreflies are particularly a problem when doing direct sticking of cuttings into larger pots. in these situations, the media stays wet for a relatively long time and the chances of larvae buildup can occur quickly and in large numbers.

control measures are primarily directed towards the larval stage because it has proven to be the most effective. some growers have reported that tank mixes of conserve with scimitar cs, talstar F or Decathlon have been effective in reducing flying adult populations. a thiodan plus Decathlon combination spray has also given good control on adults.

Larvae control options include: azatin (drench), citation (soil surface spray), Distance (soil surface spray or light drench- see special precautions at the end of this section.), Duraguard (soil surface spray or light drench), gnatrol (soil surface spray or drench) or beneficial nematode (steinernema feltiae) products, such as Nemashield and Nemasys. of this group, use only azatin, Duraguard, gnatrol and beneficial nematodes when bracts are present. insure that the chemical does not contact the bracts during the application. azatin, gnatrol and the beneficial nematodes apparently do not control shorefly larvae. Neonicotinoid chemicals (e.g., Flagship, safari, Marathon, etc.) appear to control larvae. Follow the label instructions carefully, especially for the nematode products.

although Distance does a very good job controlling fungus and shorefly larvae, upper leaf curling and hardening of new leaves under certain situations have been seen when Distance is applied. if growers decide to use this chemical, read the special instructions below carefully. special application requirements for Distance: apply either as a soil surface spray or as a light soil drench to wet up only the top 1 to 1.5 of soil at 2 oz/100 gal. Do not use the 6 oz/100 gal rate commonly used in foliar sprays for whitefly control. Never apply to plants under water stress and avoid water stress for seven days after treatment. try to avoid high temperatures (>85°F/29°c) at time of application.

MotHer stocK cuLturaL iNForMatioN

Mediaseveral good well-drained commercial mixes work. We have seen good success with media with 60 – 65% coarse peat, 30% Perlite and 5 – 10% Vermiculite. see earlier discussions within this guide regarding potting media.

Fertilizationexact program depends on variety, condition, age of the plants, climate, water quality, watering practices and adjustments based on soil analysis. constant feed with 250 ppm N for dark-leafed varieties and 300 ppm N for medium-green-leaf varieties, depending on light level, age and growth rate. up to 30% of the total N can be ammonium. For softer growth, Peter’s 20 – 10 – 20 or similar fertilizers, for harder growth Peter’s 15 – 5 – 15 or similar fertilizers are recommended. add molybdenum, magnesium sulfate and calcium nitrate to the feeding program if not already supplied. Perform soil analysis every two weeks.

Recommended for the first month of the crop and increased by 25 – 40% later on depending on leaf color of the variety:

250 ppm Nitrogen 1.5 ppm Manganese

25 ppm Phosphorus 0.5 ppm Zinc

300 ppm Potassium 0.25 ppm copper

200 ppm calcium 0.4 ppm Boron

80 ppm Magnesium 0.05 ppm Molybdenum

3 ppm iron

As an example, keep the soluble salt level around 1.5 mS/cm for the first few weeks, and 2.0 mS/cm later on (in a saturated media extract, SME). Medium-green-leaf varieties can be fertilized slightly more heavily than dark-leaf varieties.

A tissue analysis report reads:

Nitrogen 4.5 – 6.0% iron 150 – 300 ppm

Phosphorous 0.3 – 0.5% copper 4 – 25 ppm

Potassium 2.5 – 3.5% Boron 30 – 100 ppm

sulphur 0.25 – 0.70% Manganese 130 – 300 ppm

calcium 1.4 – 2.0% Zinc 40 – 100 ppm

Magnesium 0.7 – 1.0% Molybdenum 0.2 – 0.5 ppm

Tissue analysis is usually very valuable in detecting toxicities, but is marginally valuable in detecting deficiencies.

pHpH: between 5.6 – 6.0 seven to 10 days after wetting (measured in saturated slurry).

Temperature75° – 80°F day/68°F night (65°F minimum)/(24° – 27°c day/20°c night (18°c minimum)

Light2,500 – 3,500 foot candles until pinch

3,500 – 5,000 foot candles after pinch

Photoperiodic Lightingincandescent lighting of >10 foot candles for four hours from 10 pm – 2 am until end of april to avoid flower initiation and splitting.

SchedulingRecommended 1-pinch quick crop schedule:Plant: week 19Pinch: soft-medium, plus leaf removal above 10 leaves; week 22Yield: 3 cuttings/week on weeks 27, 28, 29

Recommended 2-pinch-crop schedule:Plant: week 131st Pinch: soft-medium, plus leaf removal above 10 leaves; week 162nd Pinch: above 3 leaves week 21Yield: 4 – 5 cuttings/week, weeks 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31

Many growers prefer a 1-pinch-quick crop in order to use the space for their spring crops. this is a more economical way to produce cuttings than a 2-pinch or even 3-pinch crop.

Pinchingsoft pinch with leaf removal of the immature leaves is definitely the best way of pinching in order to get the maximum amount of breaks in the shortest time period.

other methods work well, but take more time. Pinch exact, so the desired amount of branches equals the amount of leaves that are left after the pinch.

Stock plant management of dark-leaf varietiesseveral years ago we found in our mother stock area that stock plants that grew into each other and formed a nice canopy consistently produced well-branching cuttings, even in cortez. these plants received two to three pinches and looked almost too tall at the time of harvesting cuttings. the theory behind this is that because of a cooler and more humid microclimate, the plants do not overheat as if exposed to the sun and heat from all sides. in addition, the root system was well established, which ensured a good water supply and cooling system through transpiration.

We currently produce all of our dark-leafed varieties like this and encourage growers to do the same (specifically Cortez). If greenhouse heat buildup cannot be controlled, do not do Cortez varieties, especially Cortez Electric Fire.

Height Controlcycocel applications at 750 ppm are sufficient under cool conditions on an “as needed” basis.

only apply cycocel (1,000 ppm) and B-Nine (500 – 1,500 ppm) tank mixes or Bonzi sprays (~ 4 ppm) if conditions are hot and humid and cycocel applications alone are insufficient.

Disease and Insect Controlsee earlier sections in this bulletin. check your local or state regulatory agency for certain chemical and pesticide restrictions.

FungicidesProduct Name Active Ingredientactinovate sP 0.03% streptomyces lydicusalude 45.8% potassium salts of H

3Po

4

Banrot 40WP 15% etridiazole + 25% thiophanate-methylcamelot 58% copper saltschipco 26019 50% iprodioneclearys 3336 50WP 50% thiophanate-methylcleary’s 3336 F 41.3% thiophanate-methylcompanion 0.03% Bacilluscompass o 50WDg 50% trifloxystrobinconsyst WDg 50% chlorothalonil + 16.7% thophanate-methylcontrast 70WsP 70% flutolanilcygnus 50WDg 50% kresoxim-methyl

Daconil ultrex 82.5% chlorothalonilDaconil Weather stik 54% chlorothalonilDecree 50WDg 50% fenhexamidDithane M-45 85% mancozebDithane t/o 75% mancozebeagle 20 eW 19.7% myclobutanilexotherm termil 20% chlorothalonilFungo Flo 46.2% thiophanate-methylHeritage 50% azoxystrobinHurricane 32% fludioxonil 16% mefenoxamMedallion 50% fludioxonilMilstop “85% carbonic acid, monopotassium salt”oHP 6672 4.5L 46.2% thiophanate-methyloHP6672 50W 50% thiophanate-methylPhyton 27 21.4% fixed copperProtect t/o 80% mancozebrhapsody as 1.34% Bacillus subtillus root/Plant shield trichoderma fungus sextant 23.3% iprodione spectro 90WDg 72% chlorothalonil + 18% thiophanate-methylstrike 50WDg 50% triadimefonsubdue Maxx 21.3% mefenoxamterraclor 400FL 40% quintozeneterraclor 75WP 75% quintozeneterraguard 50WP 50% triflumazoletruban 25ec 25% etridiazoletruban 30WP 30% etridiazole Zerotol 27% hydrogen dioxide Zyban WsB 64% mancozeb + 15.6% thiophanate-methyl

Plant Growth RegulatorsProduct Name Active Ingredienta-rest 0.0264% ancymidolB-Nine 85% daminozideBonzi 0.4% paclobutrazolcycocel 11.8% chlormequat Fascination 1.8% ga4+7 + 1.8% BaFlorel 3.9% ethephon Progibb t&o 4% ga3

Spray Adjuventcapsil 30 “organisilicate, nonionic”

SYNGENTA FLOWERS, INC., 6899 Winchester Circle, Suite 102, Boulder, Colorado 80301303 - 415 -1466 I 800 - 344 -7862 (U.S. only) I 303 - 415 -1605 fax I www.syngentaflowersinc.com

Chemical Equivalentsa-rest (0.0264% ancymidol): 5 ppm = 2.5 fl oz/gal or 19 ml/liter

B-Nine or Dazide (85% daminozide): 1,500 ppm = 0.23 oz/gal or 1.76 g/liter

Bonzi (0.4% paclobutrazol): 5 ppm = 0.16 fl oz/gal or 0.1.25 ml/liter

cycocel (11.8% chlormequat): 1,000 ppm = 1.1 fl oz/gal or 8.5 ml/liter

Fascination (1.8% ga4+7 + 1.8% Ba): 2 ppm = 0.015 oz/gal or 0.12 ml/liter

Florel (3.9% ethephon): 500 ppm = 1.6 fl oz/gal or 13 ml/liter

Pro-gibb (4 % ga3): 4 ppm = 0.013 fl oz/gal or 0.11 ml/liter

Insecticides Product Name Active Ingredientakari 5sc 5% fenpyroximateattain tr 4.0% bifenthrinavid 0.15ec 2% abamectinazatin XL 3% azadirachtinBotanigard es* 11.3% Beauvaria bassiana gHacelero 16Wsg* 16% clothianidincitation WP 75% cyromazineconserve sc 11.6% spinosadDecathlon 20WP 20% cyfluthrinDistance* 11.2% pyriproxyfenDuraguard Me 20% chloropyrifosendeavor* 50% pymetrozineenstar ii 65.1% s-kinopreneFlagship 25Wg* 25% thiamethoxamFloramite sc 22.6% bifenazategnatrol 0.6% B. thuringiensis var. israelensisHexygon DF 50% hexythiazoxJudo* 45.2% spiromesifen

Marathon 1% g* 1% imidacloprid

Marathon 60WP* 60% imidacloprid

Marathon ii* 21.4% imidacloprid

Mesurol 75W 75% methiocarb

Naturalis-o 72% Beauvaria bassiana atcc 74040

orthene tt&o WsP 75% acephate

ovation sc 42% clofentezine

overture 35WP 35% pyridalyl

Pedestal 10% novaluron

Preclude tr 4.8% fenoxycarb

safari 20sg* 20% dinotefuran

sanmite 75WP* 75% pyridaben

scimitar cs 9.7% lambda-cyhalothrin

talstar FL 7.9% bifenthrin

talus* 70% buprofezin

tame 2.4ec 31% fenpropathrin

tetrasan 5% etoxazole

thiodan 3ec* 33.7% endosulfan

thiodan 50WP* 50% endosulfan

tristar 70WsP* 70% acetamiprid

ultra Fine oil 98.8% paraffinic oil

* effective chemicals for whitefly control.

Conversion Tables Temperature to convert Fahrenheit to celsius: subtract 32 and multiply by 0.55; thus 68ºF = 20ºc.

to convert celsius to Fahrenheit: Multiply by 1.8 and add 32; thus 30ºc = 86ºF

Dry Weight 1 ounce = 28.35 gm 1 pound = 454 grams = 16 ounces

Liquid Weight1 ounce = 29.6 milliliters = 2 tablespoons1 teaspoon = 0.1667 ounce33.78 ounces = 1000 milliliters = 1 liter1 gallon = 3.78 liters