RYERSON UNIVERSITYDepartment of Geography

GEO 509: Food, Place and Identity: The Geography of Diet FALL 2009

Professor: Dr. H. Jacobs hjacobs@ryerson.ca Office: JOR 631 416-979-5000 xt 6155

This is an Upper Level Liberal Study. Not available to selected programmes.

Faculty course survey will be distributed on-line between November 13 – 23. 2009Course Policy: Geography 509 is a three hour lecture based course. Classroom attendance is essential since only illustrative materials will be posted on the website at www.geography.ryerson.ca/geo509/. Permission to record classroom presentations must be obtained from the instructor. Students are required to use their Ryerson e-mail address for all communications. Replies normally will be made from Monday to Friday no later than the next office hour, but should not be expected if more than a terse response is required. It is the responsibility of the student regularly to check e-mail and the course website. Deadlines for the minor and major paper will be strictly enforced. A deduction of 20% per calendar day will be applied to late submissions. Only exceptions on medical grounds will be considered for students who complete the Ryerson Medical Form which can be accessed at www.ryerson.ca/senate/forms/medical.pdf. Application for grade reassessment will be accepted no later than three days after papers are initially returned in class. Grades will be posted within two weeks of completing assignments. Supplementary examinations will differ in content and structure from the scheduled final and will be held early in January 2010. Office appointments can be arranged in posted hours. Students are expected to conform to the code of conduct that can be reviewed at www.ryerson.ca/ai/students/studentcheating.html. Calendar Description: This course examines the role of provenance and place in the evolution of diet. In defining the geography of food as who eats what where and why, it considers how food’s importance extends beyond mere nourishment; food is an idiom that provides individual and collective comfort and identity. However impoverished or affluent, contemporary cuisines are legacies of military conflict, colonization and commercial influence that have incorporated key, non-indigenous products that were introduced by the Columbian exchange.English Language Support: Task-based academic language workshops, individual help with written assignments, one-on-one conversation and pronunciation practice, as well as help with reading, listening and oral presentations are available to students whose first language of academic study is not English.  More information can be found at www.ryerson.ca/studentservices/els/.

COURSE DESCRIPTION

Whether engaged in hunting, fishing or farming, primary food production represents the most spatially extensive of all human economic activities. Until the Neolithic, most human populations were nomadic, but about 10 000 years ago the domestication of plants and animals favoured groups whose lives were sedentary. As subsistence gave rise to surplus, agriculture transformed society fundamentally. Those released from the

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obligation to produce their own food could establish cities where science and government, literature and the arts could flourish. Prominent among the latter was cuisine, usually based on a single staple like rice, wheat or corn depending on what could be grown most successfully. With a focus on provenance and place, this course uses a geographical perspective to examine the role that cuisine has played in what is essentially the domestication of the human species.

The geography of food has been defined as who eats what where and why. It recognizes that there are in fact many food geographies. While there is the geography of want and won’t, of obesity and eating disorders, of gluttony and deprivation and of poverty and prosperity, this course follows a salutary rather than a desultory perspective about the matter and the means that people possess. However impoverished or affluent, ultimately a cuisine represents much more than mere comfort and nourishment: it is an idiom that expresses individual and collective identity.

Location, serendipity and human ingenuity combine to effect diet. At national, regional and local scales, the course shows the way societies capitalize on indigenous products and evolve by adopting new ingredients and techniques from contact with other places and cultures. Indeed, many contemporary ethnic and national cuisines are fairly recent legacies of military conflict, colonization and commercial influence that have incorporated key, non-indigenous products. No event was more profound in the globalization of food than what is known as the Colombian Exchange.

The achievement of most of the world’s cuisines depends on the radical transformation of both the human and natural environments. The topics below illustrate the importance of food in global exploration, the exertion of wealth and power and the exploitation of biotic and abiotic resources. Colloquially, they deal with everything you have always wanted to know about the geography of food and perhaps lots of things you thought you did not want to know. The material can be best enjoyed by people who appreciate food, but also by those with an intellectual curiosity about how we have come by it and what it means to our collective and individual identity. Throughout, there is a focus on the role that food plays when and where prosperity has enabled its use for purposes beyond mere sustenance.

This course addresses the problem of food illiteracy by encouraging students to become reflective about an act that is largely reflex: eating. It takes an adverbial approach to the subject in asking how, when, and why questions about food, but the primary emphasis is on where in order to explore how places change and how they influence what people eat. The measure of success lies in the ability of this course to encourage students to eat both more consciously and conscientiously.

EVALUATION

Minor Paper (15%) Due October 5, 2009Major Paper (35%) Due November 16 or 18, 2009Final Examination (50%) Exam period

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CONTENT

A. Hors d’oeuvres

Unit 1 An Adverbial Approach to Food

Food curiosities Place and esoterica The killing fields

Unit 2 Semiotics of Food: The Raw and the Cooked

Aversions and perversions Moral and corporal dangers

Unit 3 Ignominy and Ignorance

Last suppers Geographical illiteracy

B. Amuse-bouches

Unit 4 Food and Culture

Disgust discussed Food roles

Unit 5 Flavours

Physiology of Taste Discrimination and diet Fat landscapes

C. Appetizers

Unit 4 Origins of the Human Diet

Prehistoric larders Invention of cooking The paradox of agriculture The agricultural revolution and societal transformations

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Unit 5 Secret Geographies

Spices Cod Coffee

D. Mains

Unit 6 Emergence of Contemporary Diets

The Columbian exchange Stocking the global pantry

Unit 7 Place and Identity

Terroir and territory The boundaries of beverages

Unit 8 National Cuisines

France: For the delectation of fools Italy: Apicius then and now USA: People of plenty Canada: Northern Bounty China: All with four legs but the table

E. Aperitifs

Unit 9 Foods of Extra-terrestrial Realities

Eating khat Sucking betel juice Absinthe makes the heart go weaker Altered brownies

Principal Sources

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There is no required text, but directed, optional readings are provided to supplement lecture materials.

Atkins, Peter and Ian Bowler (2001) Food in Society: Economy, Culture, Geography. New York: Oxford

Bell, David and Gill Valentine (1997) Consuming Geographies: We are Where We Eat. London Routledge

Civitello, Linda (2004) Cuisine and Culture. Hoboken: Wiley

Journals

GastronomicaPetit Propos Culinaire

Additional Sources

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Arce, A. and T. Marsden (1993) The Social Construction of International Food: A New Research Agenda, Economic Geography 69: 293-311

Atkins, Peter and Ian Bowler (2001) Food in Society: Economy, Culture, Geography. New York: Oxford

Barer-Stein, Thelma (1999) You Eat What You Are. Toronto: Firefly Books

Barndt, Deborah (2002) Tangled Routes: Women, Work and Globalization on the Tomato Trail. Aurora: Garamond Press

Behr, Edward (1992) The Artful Eater. New York: The Atlantic Monthly Press

Boniface, Priscilla (2003) Tasting Tourism: Travelling for Food and Drink. Ashgate Pub Ltd.

Bociurkiw, Marusya (2007) Comfort Food for Breakups:  The Memoir of a Hungry Girl.  Vancouver:  Arsenal

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Brenner, Joel Glenn (1998) The Emperors of Chocolate: Inside the Secret World of Hershey and Mars. New York: Random House

Brenner, Leslie and Wayne Nish (1999) American Appetite : The Coming of Age of a Cuisine. Bard Books

Brillat-Savarin, Jean-Anthelme (1970) The Philosopher in the Kitchen. Middlesex: Penguin

Brothwell, Patricia and, Don R. Brothwell (2000) Food in Antiquity : A Survey of the Diet of Early Peoples. Johns Hopkins University Press

Browning, Frank (1999) Apples. New York: North Point PressBryant, Carol et al. (2003) The Cultural Fast: an Introduction to Food and Society. Toronto: Thompson

Colquhoun, Kate (2007) Taste: The Story of Britain through its Food. London: Bloomsbury Publishing

Camporesi, Piero (1993) The Magic Harvest: Food, Folklore and Society. Oxford: Polity Press

Canadian Geographic (2002), Food. Special Edition, February

Capaldi, Elizabeth ed. (1996) Why We Eat What We Eat: The Psychology of Eating, American Psychology Association Books

Chelminski, Rudolph (1985) The French at Table. N.Y.: William Morrow & Company Inc.

Chelminski, Rudoph (2005) The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine. Gotham

Coe, Sophie D. (1994) America’s First Cuisines: University of Texas

Coldwell, Joan, ed. (2007) Apples under the Bed:  Recollections and Recipes from B. C. Writers and Artists.  Sidney, B. C.:  Hedgerow

Cooke, Nancy, ed. (2009) What’s to Eat? Montreal: McGill-Queen’s University Press

Colquhoun, Kate (2007) Taste: The Story of Britain through its Food

Corson, Trevor (2007) The Zen of Fish: The Story of Sushi, from Sanurai to Supermarket. Harper Collins

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Counihan Carole and Penny Van Esterik ed.(1997) Food and Culture : A Reader. London: Routledge

Critser, Greg (2004) Fat Land:  How America Became the Fattest People on Earth. Houghton Mifflin

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Diamond, Jared (1997) Location, Location, Location:  The First Farmers. Science 278 Issue 5341

Diamond, Jared (1997) Guns, Germs, and Steel. New York: Norton

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Fagan, Brian (2006) Fish on Friday. New York: Basic Books

Fantasia, Rick (1995) Fast Food in France, Theory and Society 24: 201-43

Ferguson, Priscilla Parkhurst (2004) Accounting for Taste: The Triumph of French Cuisine. Chicago: University of Chicago Press

Fernandez-Armesto, Filipe (2002) Near a Thousand Tables. Toronto: Key Porter

Fiddes, Nick (1997) Declining Meat: Past, Present and Future Imperfect? in Pat Caplan ed. Food, Health and Identity New York: Routledge

Fischer, Barbara (1999) Foodculture: Tasting Identities and Geographies in Art.  Toronto:  YYZ Books 

Fisher, M.F.K. (1976) The Art of Eating. New York: Vintage Books

Foster, Nelson and Linda S. Cordell ed (1992) Chilies to Chocolate : Food the Americas Gave the World. University of Arizona Press

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Feeley-Harnik,Gillian (1994) The Lord's Table: The Meaning of Food in Early Judaism and Christianity. Smithsonian Institution Press

Ferry, Jane (2003) Food in Film: a culinary performance of communication. New York: Rutledge.

Foster, Nelson and Linda S. Cordell (Editors) (1992) Chilies to Chocolate : Food the Americas Gave the World. University of Arizona Press

Foxworth, Jo and Jeanne Bauer (1999) The Bordello Cookbook: Food With a Passion Moyer Bell Ltd.

Freedman, Paul (2007) The History of Taste. University of California Press

Fumey, Gilles and Oliver Etcheverria (2004) Atlas Mondial des Cuisines et Gastronomies. Paris: Austrement

Gabaccia, Donna R. (2000) W e Are What We Eat : Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans. Harvard Press

Goldman, Amy (2008) The Heirloom Tomato:  From Garden to Table.  New York:  Bloomsbury Gollner, Adam (2008) The fruit hunters: a story of nature, adventure, commerce and obsession. Toronto: Doubleday

Goyan, Pamela Kittler and Kathryn P. Sucher (1999) Cultural Foods: Traditions and Trends. Wadsworth

Goyan, Pamela Kittler and Kathryn P. Sucher (1998) Food and Culture in America : A Nutrition Handbook 2nd edition. Mass Market Paperback

Grivetti, L. G. (2000) Nutritional Geography. History and Trends, Nutritional Anthropology, 23(2): 1-16.

Grigg, David B. (1984) An Introduction to Agricultural Geography. Dover, N.H.: Hutchinson

Grigg, David (1992) The Transformation of Agriculture in the West. Cambridge, Mass.: Basil Blackwell

Grigg, D. (1993) The World Food Problem, Second Edition, Oxford: Blackwells

Grigg, D. (1995) The geography of food consumption: a review, Progress in Human Geography, 19, 338-354.

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Grigg, D. (1995) The nutritional transition in Western Europe Journal of Historical Geography, 21, 247-261.

Grigg, D. (1996) The starchy staples in world food consumption, Annals of Association of American Geographers, 86, 412-431.

Grigg, D. (1999) The changing geography of world food consumption in the second half of the twentieth century, Geographical JournaI, 165, 1-11.

Grigg, D (1999) Food consumption in the Mediterranean region, Tijdschrift voor Economische en Sociale Geografie 90 (4) 391-409

Grigg, D (1999) The fat of the land: a geography of oil and fat consumption, Geojournal 48, 259-268

Hall, C. Michael, et al. (2003) Food Tourism around the World. Oxford: Butterworth Heinemann

Harper, Charles L. and Bryan F. Le Beau (2003) Food, Society, and Environment. Upper Saddle Hill, N. J.: Prentice-Hall

Harris, Marvin (1985) Good to Eat: Riddles of Food & Culture. N. Y.: Simon & Schuster

Heffernan, William and Douglas Constance (1994) Transnational Corporations and the Globalization of the Food System, in Alessandro Bonanno et al. (ed.) From Columbus to ConAgra, Univ. of Kansas

Herbst, Sharon Tyler (1997) Never Eat More Than You Can Lift, and Other Food Quotes and Quips. 1,500 Notable Quotables about Edibles and Potables Broadway Books

Hooker, Richard James (1981) Food and Drink in America. New York: The Bobbs-Merrill Company

Isenberg, Sasha (2007) Globalization and the Making of a Modern Delicacy (Gotham Books)

Jacobs, Jay (1990) A Glutton for Punishment: Confession of a Mercenary Eater. Atlantic Monthly Press

Jakle, John and Keith A. Sculle (1999) Fast Food: Roadside Restaurants in the Automobile Age John Hopkins University Press

Jones, Doug and Grace Jones (1999) My Brother's Farm : Reflections on Life, Farming, and the Pleasures of Food Putnam Pub Group

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Kenneally, Rhona Richman (2008) The Cuisine of the Tundra: Towards a Canadian Food Culture at Expo 67, Food, Culture & Society. 11(3), 287-313

Kiple, Kenneth F. (2007) A Movable Feast: Ten Millennia of Food Globalization (Cambridge)

Kittler, Pamela and Kathryn Sucher (2000) Cultural Foods. Stamford, CT: WadsworthKittle, Pamela and Kathryn Sucher (2004) Food and Culture Toronto: Wadsworth

Kluckner Michael (1997) The Pullet Surprise: A Year on an Urban Farm.  Vancouver:  Raincoast Books

Knox, P. and J. Agnew (1998) The Geography of the World Economy (3rd ed) Arnold, chapter 9

Krondl, Michael (1995) Around the American Table. Treasured Recipes and Food Traditions. Holbrook Massachusetts: The New York Public Library

Krondl, Michael (2008) The Taste of Conquest: The Rise and Fall of the Three Great Cities of Spice. Ballantine

Kurlansky, Mark (1997) Cod: A Biography of the Fish that Changed the World. Toronto: Alfred Knopf

Lacey, Richard W. (1994) Hard to Swallow : A Brief History of Food Cambridge University Press

Laszlo, Pierre (2007) Citrus: A History. University of Chicago Press

Le Heron, R. (1993) Globalized Agriculture: Political Choice. Pergamon

Levenstein, Harvey (1993) Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America. New York.: Oxford University Press

Levenstein, Harvey (1988) Revolution at the table: the transformation of the American diet. New York: Oxford University Press

Levi-Strauss, Claude (1983) The Raw & Cooked: Introduction to a Science of Mythology, Volume I. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press

Levy, Paul (1986) Out to Lunch. N. Y.: Harper Collins: Harper & Row

Liebling, A. J. (1994) Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris. N. Y.: North Point Press

Lucas, Fiona (2008) Hearth and Home:  Women and the Art of Open-Hearth Cooking.  Toronto:  Lorimer

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Mannion, A. M. (1995) The Origins of Agriculture:   An Appraisal.  Geographical Papers, University of Reading

Marx, Leo, (1964) The Machine in the Garden. Technology and the Pastoral Ideal in America. New York : Oxford University Press

Mac Clancy, Jeremy (1992) Consuming Culture. London: Chapmans Publisher Ltd.

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Millston, Erik and Tim Lang (2004) The Atlas of Food: Who Eats What, Where and Why. London: Earthscan

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Mintz, Sidney W. (1995) Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History. Viking Press

Montanari, Massimo (1994) The Culture of Food. Cambridge, Mass.: Blackwell

Murray, Rose (2008) A Taste of Canada:  A Culinary Journey.  North Vancouver, B. C.:  Whitecap

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Pitte, Jean-Robert Pitte, (2002) French Gastronomy: The History and Geography of a Passion. New York: Columbia University Press

Pollan, Michael (2001) The Botany of Desire. New York: Random House

Pollan, Michael (2006) The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals. Penguin

Rebora, Giovanni (2001) Culture of the Fork: A Brief History of Food in Europe. Columbia University Press

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Rogak, Lisa (2004) Death Warmed Over: Funeral Food, Rituals and Customs from Around the World. Berkeley: Ten Speed Press

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Rowling, Nick (1987) Coffee Empires in Nick Rowling, Commodities: How the World Was Taken to Market. London: Free Association Books

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Jacobsen, Rowan (2007) Geography of Oysters: The Connoisseur's Guide to Oyster Eating in America. Bloomsbury US

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Santich, Barbara (2000) In the Land of the Magic Pudding: A Gastronomic Miscellany. Adelaide: Wakefield Press

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Schremp, Gerry (1996) Celebration of American Food. Four Centuries in the Melting Pot. Golden, Colorado: Fulcrum Publishing

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Sommers, Brian (2008) Geography of Wine: How Landscapes, Cultures, Terroir, and the Weather Make a Good Drop. Penguin USA

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Websites

The Daily Gullethttp://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=90070

Art Culinairehttp://www.getartc.com/aboutac.asp

Gastronomica: the Journal of Food and Culturehttp://www.gastronomica.org/

Gayot

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http://www.gayot.com/

Food Reference Websitehttp://www.foodreference.com/

The Worldwide Gourmethttp://www.theworldwidegourmet.com

Cooks.comhttp://www.cooks.com

All Recipes http://allrecipes.com

The Food Networkhttp://www.foodnetwork.com

Wine Pageshttp://www.wine-pages.com

Restaurant.cahttp://www.restaurant.ca

Wine Spectatorhttp://www.winespectator.com

Dine Torontohttp://www.dine.to

Canadian Chef Educators Associationhttp://www.canadianchefeducators.com/

Foodinc.cahttp://www.foodinc.ca/index.html

Lex Culinariahttp://gorgeoustown.typepad.com/lex_culinaria

Il Fornohttp://ilforno.typepad.com

Flavor & the Menu: about the business of flavourhttp://www.flavor-online.com/

Canadian Association for Food Studies

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http://www.foodstudies.ca/journals.html

Films

Alfonso Arau, Like Water for ChocolateGabriel Axe, Babette’s FeastPaul Mayeda Berges, Mistress of Spices Gurinder Chadha, What’s Cooking? Bob Giraldi, Dinner RushSturla Gunnarsson's, Rare BirdLasse Hallströöm, Chocolat Juzo Itami, TampopoRoland Joffe, Vatel Ang Lee, Eat, Drink, Man, WomanSandra Nettelbeck, Mostly MarthaMaria Ripoll, Tortilla Soup Morgan Spurlock, Super Size Me George Tillman, Soul FoodFina Torres, Woman on Top Stanley Tucci, Big NightBrad Bird, RatatouilleScott Hicks, No Reservations

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