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TEXAS SPEED & PERFORMANCE | TEXAS-SPEED.COM | 512.863.0900 1
TEXAS-SPEED.COM
2009-2013 CTS-V Header Installation
Tools
▪ 18mm Socket ▪ 10mm Socket and Wrench
▪ 11mm Socket ▪ 13mm Socket and Wrench
▪ 5/8” Spark Plug Socket ▪ 3/8” Drive Ratchet, Torque Wrench, Extensions
▪ 5mm Allen Bit ▪ Reciprocating saw/Handheld Bandsaw/Hacksaw
▪ Zip Ties for secure wiring ▪ 7/8” or 22mm Oxygen Sensor Socket/Wrench
TEXAS SPEED & PERFORMANCE | TEXAS-SPEED.COM | 512.863.0900 2
Disassembly Procedure
1. Remove negative battery cable from battery. – 10mm Socket and Wrench
Under the Hood
2. Remove left and right engine bay trim over strut tower bracing.
3. Remove strut tower brace. – 18mm
4. Remove brake booster vacuum from brake booster.
5. Remove all ignition coils, plug wires, and spark plugs. – 10mm on coils, ⅝” on
spark plugs.
6. Remove oil dipstick tube – 15mm
Under the Car
7. Pre-lubricate all exhaust/bolts/nuts/hangers/O2 sensors
8. Unplug O2 sensor wiring. (some are easier to access from the engine bay)
9. Remove O2 sensors – ⅞” or 22mm
10. Remove tunnel brace – 13mm
*Exhaust system can be modified on car if desired, but full removal is an
option, mark locations before removal.
11. Factory exhaust pipe will need to be cut approximately 2 ½” from rear axle half-
shaft center line. On the driver’s side, the differential center section has bolts at its
lowest point. Make the exhaust in line with the most forward bolt. On the
passenger side, it is in line with the third cast iron differential support rib. Mark this
location of the exhaust for cutting. Both cuts should be within ⅛” of each other.
This is where the TSP mid-pipe will connect to the factory axle-back. Use a
reciprocating saw, handheld band-saw, or hack-saw to make your cuts.
*If cut on the car, stock axle-back can remain in place after modifying. If cut
off the car, remove the entire system.
12. Clean up cutting burrs on exhaust with file or dremel to aid in pipe fitment.
TEXAS SPEED & PERFORMANCE | TEXAS-SPEED.COM | 512.863.0900 3
Disassembly Procedure (cont.)
Reassembly Procedure
1. Remove steering shaft.
2. Remove furthest upper and lowest bolts (lower middle bolt is slide adjustment) – 11mm x3
3. Remove factory cats. – 15mm
4. Unbolt exhaust manifolds from engine bay side and remove under vehicle. – 13mm
5. Remove any interfering heat shields and starter as necessary for manifold removal.
6. All non-reused stock exhaust should be removed at this point.
1. Install front O2 sensor extensions – routing and securing away from heat.
2. Headers install from bottom, move interfering items such as starter (heat shield)
or steering shaft.
*Headers can be installed without moving engine or disrupting mounts.
Under the Car
3. Install headers from bottom being careful not to cut any wires or break anything.
4. Reinstall steering shaft and reinstall the removed bolts – torque to 25lb feet using
blue thread locker. – 11mm
Under the Hood
5. Bolt headers to cylinder head using stock gaskets and bolts. – 13mm
6. Torque header fasteners to 22lb feet. – 13mm
7. Install spark plugs. -- ⅝” spark plug socket
8. Dipstick tube will require spacers and a longer M10 bolt, or modifying by trimming
the mounting tab as required to bold to cylinder head.
9. Install modified dipstick tube and bolt. – 15mm
TEXAS SPEED & PERFORMANCE | TEXAS-SPEED.COM | 512.863.0900 4
Reassembly Procedure (cont.)
3” X-Pipe Install
1. Install spark plug wires, ignition coils, vacuum lines, and any unplugged hoses or
wiring connections.
2. Reinstall strut tower brace and trim covers. – 18mm
Under the Car
3. Install front O2 sensors and connect to O2 extension harness – secure with cable
ties away from exhaust or moving parts -- ⅞” / 22mm
*Check and move any wiring harness, heat shield, or tubing is not near
exhaust; move and secure as necessary.
1. Starting from the front, install left front and right front slip-fit pipes over headers
with 3” band clamps – rotate band clamps for best clearance and access.
2. Leave approximately ¼” of the header collector visible on each side for now.
3. Adjust for optimal clearance to body and transmission and then snug clamps
enough to provide slight resistance, but do not fully torque down yet – the clamps
will be tightened after adjustments are made.
a. The ends of these front pipes will end in the tunnel behind the
transmission.
4. Install the X-pipe over the front pipes using 3” band clamps.
5. Fully install the X-pipe over the front pipes and snug down clamps but do not
torque. – 15mm
TEXAS SPEED & PERFORMANCE | TEXAS-SPEED.COM | 512.863.0900 5
3” X-Pipe Install (cont.)
Adjustments
1. If axle-back is removed, install it into the exhaust hangers for the next steps.
2. Install both left and right axle-back connection pipes onto the axle-back with 3”
and 2 ½“ clamps. These will slide on further than their final position so that they
can slip forward onto the X-pipe when in position.
*The rear connection pipes are side-specific and follow the tunnel profile for best
clearance. If the exhaust hangs too low, it is likely that the pipes are interchanged
left to right.
*Deburr and clean the axle-back slip-fit so the exhaust can slide easier (WD40).
3. After the connection pipes are installed over the factory axle-back pipes, then you
can put the exhaust into position and slide the exhaust back forward and over the
rear of the X-pipe. Don’t forget the rear X-pipe clamps! Adjust these connection
pipes and axle-back for the best body, heat shield, and frame clearance and then
snug clamps. – 15mm
1. CTS-V has minimal room for exhaust variance, and he exhaust system will need
extra care to position properly. Please be patient with the adjustments, you
cannot expect the exhaust to fit right away without spending time to adjust it. The
front pipes and connection pipes are main adjustment points.
2. The header mounting holes are slightly oversized so that the collector of the
header can tilt upward or downward.
TEXAS SPEED & PERFORMANCE | TEXAS-SPEED.COM | 512.863.0900 6
Adjustments (cont.)
3. Often the weight of the header will put it in the right location as you torque the
header bolts, but slight adjustments can be made at the header that makes about
a ¼“ difference at the header collector if needed.
4. Turn and just left and right front pipes to give best clearance on frame,
transmission pan, and cross-member.
*Holding the exhaust in position using a temporary spacer between the exhaust
and tighter areas helps if a 2nd set of hands are not available.
5. The X-pipe rarely needs adjustments itself, although as a point of reference, it
should be centered as best as possible in the tunnel.
6. Lastly, adjust the rear connection pipes and exhaust axle-back for best body
clearance.
7. Repeat all steps if needed to adjust full exhaust for best fitment.
a. This may need to be repeated several times as you work from front to
rear for best exhaust positioning.
8. Once exhaust is installed satisfactorily then you can securely torque all band
clamps to 40-44 lb feet.
9. Further minor adjustment may be required after road testing or heat cycle are
performed.
Finish installation by verifying nothing is against exhaust and reconnect battery to
start car. Initial startup will yield noxious exhaust fumes due to residual oil from
manufacturing. Startup the car in a well-ventilated area, allowing these odors to
burn off.
*Exhaust may need to be readjusted after warm up cycle or driving due to
expansion settling.
TEXAS SPEED & PERFORMANCE | TEXAS-SPEED.COM | 512.863.0900 7
More Information & Help
Call: 512.863.0900 Monday – Friday. (9:30 AM – 6:00 PM CST)
E-mail: [email protected]
Address: Texas Speed & Performance
1621 Aviation Dr., Ste 105
Georgetown, TX 78628