Reservoir Installation : Notes on installation of Steel Wall Vinyl Lined Tanks. Steel Wall Vinyl Lined Tanks are usually called 'Modular' Tanks, on account of the Steel Walls being made in modular sections, easy to handle, which are then bolted together to form a ring on site. In the 'Vyna' range, we have three different wall heights. These are 1.2, 1.8, and 2.4 mts high. Your tank is the 1.8m high range The diameters of our tanks range from 3mØ to 16,4mØ (500,000L) The smaller Tanks require very little site preparation, and this consists of ensuring the chosen site is perfectly flat, rock free and level, and that the ground has not previously been excavated. The weight of the water in our tanks is from about 3 tons upwards, so you need to be sure the earth is firm. You also need to ensure that the chosen site is well drained, and that rainwater run-off will not undermine the walls of your Tank. Preferably choose a site slightly higher that the surrounding ground. If this cannot be done, it would be advisable to form a Concrete Ring-Beam of ± 300 x 300mm, as a stable foundation on which to erect the Tank Walls. All our 2.4 high Tanks must have this concrete ring-beam for safety purposes. The edge of the ring beam on the Internal side must be removed. Ie:

Once you are satisfied with the preparations, you should mark out the diameter of the Tank, and commence bolting the panels together loosely. We have coated the BOTTOM of the tanks with a Bitumen water Proofer as added protection.

SIFTED & COMPACTED SAND

PANELS

300 x 300 Concrete Ring

NB: REMOVE SHARP EDGE

RESERVOIR TANK INSTALLATION – CROSS SECTION

You will note that washers are supplied with the 1.2 & 1.8 Tanks, as the framework of these Tanks walls are made from square tube, and the washers spread the load. The 2.4 Tank frames are made with solid right angle sections, and do not require washers. Again, check that the appearance of the panels is level. Do not end up with a Tank that leans out of true in any direction, as this will put unnecessary and exceptional strain on the structure, and may well cause it to collapse. Once you are satisfied with the wall assembly, and that all nuts and bolts are in place, you may begin to tighten the bolts. Use masking /packing (brown) tape to cover the vertical joins between panels. Make sure the tape also covers and goes over the small gap at the top of the wall joins. Using small pieces of the tape cover all rivet heads. If working with one of the larger Tanks, you may then remove one wall section, to allow ease of access for the floor preparation. (Don't forget to re-apply the masking/packing tape to the joins when replacing this section.) Floor preparation consists of firstly having ensured that all pebbles, rocks, and any sharp objects have been removed. This would obviously also apply to roots etc. It is advised to chip off the Internal Sharp edge of the concrete footing, For our Tank liner to be further protected, a layer of fine sifted sand must now be spread on the floor, to a depth of between 5 and 7.5mm. To calculate the volume of sand required, multiply the diameter by itself, and then by .8 eg: assuming a 6.1mØ Tank, we do as follows: 6.1m x 6.1m =37.21 x .8=29.768 This is the are of the floor space of a 6.1mØ Tank. Now, multiply that number by 5mm, (0.05) to get the volume of sand required. Spread the sand evenly, allowing for a radius of ± 150mm where the floor meets the wall sections. You should now try and compact, or roll the sand floor, giving it a bit of firmness. Adding a very fine spray of water at this time will assist in settling the floor. Taking care not to disturb your hard efforts with the floor, you now need to carry the folded Vinyl Liner to the centre of the floor, and place it there. (If you have some long builders planks, these could be used as a bridge across the floor). Leaving the liner in the sun for a couple of hours will make easier handling. Now carefully unroll the Liner. You will need to walk on the Liner, so please remove your shoes. Take note that the Liner is made of floor and wall section. You will see the join where these `two meet, and this will assist you in centralising the Liner. You will note the the Liner floor is slightly larger that the Tank floor. This is intentional, and allows for movement of the Liner without adding strain, when in use.

Once satifactorily in place, the top of the Liner walls may now be lifted to meet the top of the Tank wall. Do not pull the Liner wall tight, as we need to leave some slack, to again allow for movement of water, without adding strain. The attachment of the Liner wall to the steel wall is made simple and effortless, with the provision of our 'Pinchweld' (LIGHT BLUE PLATIC BEADING) beading system, which simply snaps on, securing the Liner neatly. (NB: the “hook” on the Pinchweld should be on the OUTSIDE in order to clip securely…however, you can reverse the pinchweld to use it as a temporary liner securing method whilst you align the liner.) Before fitting your threaded outlet flanges through the aperture provided on the tank wall, you MUST start filling your Tank to just below the aperture, to ensure the floor is correctly seated. Make any required adjustments to both floor and wall at this stage. You may then install the outlet flange, and connect your own piping and stop cocks etc. You may then resume filling your Tank, taking care to ensure that all fastenings are secure. NB: We advise AGAINST using direct pressure of any volume, as this can result in Liner Creep, and put the liner under abnormal stress/strain. If you are NOT using a BALL VALVE, - please make sure you spread the pressure, or fill through the shade net cover. Final adjustments to the wall of the Liner may be made if necessary, as the Pinchweld beading may be carefully lifted off, by removing with an upward pull at the beginning/end of where the beading is seated. Should you have specified either inlet, or overflow flanges, these can be installed, again, when the water is just below these apertures.

Shade net Roof Installation:

1. First the ROOF WIRE SUPPORT strands are laid across the Top of the water Tank at 3m (width of shade Net) Intervals. You can drill a small hole (same thickness as the wire) through the panels, - above the waterline, or preferably just go over the Pinchweld at the top. The wire can then be tensioned using the ROOF WIRE TENSIONER.

2. The Shade Net Roof (Square) can then be laid to run parallel to the ROOF WIRE SUPPORT STRANDS. On large tanks a standard single strand wire can be to attach the SHADE NET to the ROOF WIRE SUPPORT STRANDS, letting the SHADE NET overlap the edge of the tank by 500mm (Half a Meter)

3. Once the Shade Net roof is in place, - the first (bottom) SIDE WIRE TENSIONER is placed around the side circumference of the tank. The Shade net is then pulled tight and UP, whereupon and the second (top) SIDE WIRE TENSIONERS is placed around the circumference of the tank, just above the first.

4. The SHADE NET can then be pulled over the TOP wire, and tucked under the BOTTOM wire to neaten the edge.

5. Should an ACCESS HOLE be required, a steel bar can be bent to the shape and size of the access, and wired onto the shade net roof. The access hole is then cut, and the lid is fitted to the top. We have supplied a Light Weight PIPE covered in Shade net which you can also use.

Don’t hesitate to call if you have any questions