5 GIFTS YOU CAN BUILD THIS WEEKEN

2-Minute Router-Bit Tune-Up p.l2

Trick Out Your Tablesaw for Peak Precision p.l6

, Quick and Elegant: All-Wood Ceiling p.36

$6.99 U.S. I $1 ~ (;.I,N

Better Homes and Gnrdens~

THE 12" EXTREME SERIES TABLE SAW with RIVING KNIFE!

· Motor: 5 HP, nov. 5illgle·phase · Precision ground cast iron tab le · Table size with extension: 30"/, ,' x 78 11/ 16'

· Arbor size: 'I.' & 1" · Arbor speed: 3600 RPM · Ma~. d~do width: I " · Ma~. depth of cut: 4"@ 9O',2 l/'@ 45·

EXTREME ... ~ n, I ~ '"

G060SX REG. $~

· Max. rip capacity: 52" · 'la' x ,;." T-slots & miter gauge SALE $189500

• Digital readout for b~vel ang'e · Cast iron trunnions

ulSQ uvmlable G .... ,

· Approx. shippmg weigllt: 901 Ibs, 7'/' HP, 3-Phalt ONLY $199500

IS" PLANER/ MOULDER · Motor: 2'1> HP, 110V, single-phase , Table size: 15" x 16' fl.ATURES STU.DT 5TANili

CO ~ I'I'N!E~T "'E~H M'TH · Max. cutt ing height: I)"

, Max, cutt ing depth: lJ. ... STOP ' AMAZIN G .\IIlT-1N DUST (O lLlCTIOII!

· Min_ stock thickness: 'Ii" · Min, stock Ie"ngth: 17' G0477 · Feed rate: 11 FPM & 22 FPM REG.I,U¥"

· Culterhe<ld di.l.: P I .. ' SALE $67500

· Cutterhe~d speed: 5500 RPM · Approx. shipping weight: 181 Ib._ m1.I! I

•

· Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, singl!! -phase , Precision ground ca~;t iron table size:

27" x 39';'" w/wings . Arbor: ' I ." · Rip capacity: 30" · Cutting capacity: 3" @90',2'/," @45° · Appro~. shipping weight: 439 1bs.

G0478

ONLY $72500

10" LEFT -TILTING SUPER HEAVY·DUTY TABLE SAW

· Precision ground cast iron ta ble size: 27" x 40'// w/wings ' Arbor: \,i,"

· CUlting capacity: S'l & 26' R of blade ,. · Max. depth of cut 3' @9(r.2'i!'@ 45 · · Appwx. shippirlg weight: 465 Ibs,

Gl023SL t.:1 REG ,~ ~

SALE$89500 a · Motor: 5 HP, 220V, sing lt-ph3se · Table size: 20' x 55%' w/extension · Max. cutting height: S' P1!~(ISION G~OUN tl , Min, stock th ickness: 3/,• :;:,SET~~IIO~:,E~E ~ · Min. stock length: 7'h" TA.~~~'

, Max, cutting depth: '1,' .:,~;~" ,

, Feed rate: 16 FPM & 20 FPM · Cutterh€ad di.l.: 3'/, ' , Cutterhead speed: 5000 RPM · Appro~_ shipping weight: 920 Ib,.

G04S4

ONLY $1250" ~'

THE ULTIMATE 14" BANDSAW 14" INDUSTRIAL RE.SAW 17" HEAVY·DUTY BAND SAW · Motor: 1 HP, 11 OV/220V,

single-phase, TEFC • Precision grou nd cast iron table · Cutting capaclty/!hroat: 13 '1>' · Max, cutting height: 6' · Blade size: 92 'h" - 93'h" long

('I," _l/' wide) · Blade spI*'ds: 1500 & 3200 FPM · Approx. shipping we"lght: 198Ib~ ,

INClU riE~ H'!lCE, MitER GAUH. ',,' 6L ~ g [ . Q UI~lIiLA~ ~

RIlUU SUTEM

T -· Motor: 1 HP, I 10V/2l0V,

smgle-phase, TEFC · Precision ground c~st lion table

size: 14'/,. ~ 193/,"

· Table tilt: 45 ' R & 8' l , Cutting capacity/throat: 13'/," , Max. cutting h@lght 10'

Blade size: 106' long I'/o' - '/, wide)

Blade speed: 3000 FPM · Approx. sh l p~119 weight: 279Ib~

"" I Rne¢ CUTTING \\hnrl\\',x'i HEIGHTl • \!-\'-;'-I I\.

~ , ... , , .

· Motor: 2 HP, 11 OV/220V, s l ngle-ph~sc, TEFC

· Precision ground cast iron table · Table till: 45 ' R& 10' L · Cutting capacity/throat: 16'/.

Mil). cutting height: 12" · Blade size: 131 'h' long

{'II" -1 " Wide) . Blade speeds: 1700 FPM

& 3500 FPM . Approx. shipping weight:

3421bs.

I!"'~ • ~.... '

GOS13 llEII REG,~

SALE$75000

~?M!II

6 " JOINTER • Motor. 1 HP, 11OV. single-phase • PTecision ground cast iron ta~ size: 6' x 46' • Cutlerheitd kniv~ 3

• Cullelhead ~peed: 4800 RPM • Max. depth of cut: 'It' 0 Cutterhead dia. 2';,' • Rabbeting capacity: '!J' o APfXOK. shipping weight: 270 Ibs.

G04Sl REG.~

FREE

SALE $32500 mlJ!I

- o Motor: 1 HP, 11OV, single-ph<!!.e • PrKisioo ground cast iron table size: 6' x 55'// • Cuttemead knives.: 4

• Cutlemead speed: 4850 RPM • Max. depth of cut: 1Jo' . Cutterhead dia. 3' • Rabbeting capacity: 'II' • Approx, shipplJ19 weight 3471'05.

60604 REG .~

SALE $49500

8 " x 76" JOINTER. • Motor: 3 HP, nov, s/ng~-phase, TEFC • Pr~i5ion ground cast ilOn table o Cutterhead kni'fes: 4 HSS • Cuttemead speed: 53SO RPM • Ma~. depth of cut: 'Ir' . Cutterhead dia. • Ma~, rabbeting depth: 'I: • Approx. shipping W~9ht: 5971'05.

G0490

• Motor: 1 HP, 11OV, single'plme.TEFC o Precision ground cast ilOn tables • Oscillating !.lble Size: 14'11' sq. • Disc table size: 17)/." ~ 10" , Both tables tilt to 45 ' • Spindle sizes: ,/ .. , ~II·. 1 'II' & 2' o Spindle o~illallons; 60 SPM ' Spirldle speed: 1725 RPM G0529

REG .'~

SALE $45000 • Stroke length: l ' • .'IPPfOK. shipping

28" I 39" DOWNDRAFT SANDING TABLE

• Motor: 'h HP, 1 lOY, singie-pha!.e,TEFC • Table surface area: 28' x 3" • Air suction capacity: 1600 CFM . Impellor. 9'h' x T, squirrel cage • Filter size: 16' x 25' x 2' • -?refilter size: 16' K 2S' x l' • Fijtration: 5 micron • Two 11 0\1 outlets • Power wrd hanger ' ApprOl_ shlppif19 weight: 2521bs.

H2936 REG .$~

SALE $57500

mill

• MOJor: 2 HP, 110VmW, single-pha!.e, TEFC, 34S0 RPM

•oiI ... ~ · Precision ground cast iron

table size: 75" ~ 9'/,' ........... • Cutterhead speed; 5S00 APM , Max. depth of cut: 'II' • f\abbeting capacity; '/,. ' Approx, shipping weight: 558 l b~.

G0593 REG.'~

o Motor: 1 'Il HP, 11OV, single-pf\a!.e o Drum surface speed: 4000 FPM • Feed rate: 'farrabie, 1-12 FPM • Max. stock size: 4'h' ~36'W

o Min. board length: 6' • Min. IxMrd thickness: 'II' • Conveyor belt size: la' x 44'h'

IHDEP£HDENT DUST

COLLlCTION W/ OUSTBAG

• Drum size: 4' • Appfox. shipping ~ht:3501~

G04S8 REG o ~ue­

SALE $75000

FREE '''111 Of ''''In PUSMIlOCU

1 HP, 1 STAGE CYCLONE HUGE SELECTION OF DUST COLLECTOR

· Motor: 2rfl, 22W, single'phase,TEFC Class 'F' o Amps: 12.5 . 60 Heru cycleJ34S0 RPM • In take hole; 7' - Impeller: 13'11' steel • Mil)(. static pressure: lOA' • Suction capacity:

1354CFM ., 2.5'SP • Filter ~urfact' area: 86 sq. ft.

· C~lection drum: stt'ei, 35 gal.

• Approx. shipping weight 3591bs.

i,

60440 REG.~

SALE $67500

CIrcle No. 583

OAK ~ MAPLE TOOLBOXES! Griuly offefS an impressive selection of qualiTY toolboxes and chests for sloring ;;Illd protecting your flne tool bit~ mea~uring tools and Imchir.e accessories. Whether yoo choose traditional oak or tM more contemporary look of maple, yOtI will get the sameexceUence and attention to detail including bt-autiful fKe veneef IWer stable center cores, interlocking joints. felt lined drawers and locking lids &froot panels. YOU'll be proud to have them in your Y10p!

A GREAT GIfT IDIAI MiIlTTl)!',~I1\'

H'0AA100lAWUCHUT

~EG.']j'" SW'149" 'S" A(J(Jm(JN.;.I fHI/'IWiG

• tt-f In

PROJECTS 16 Drum-sanding fence

28 Mission bookcase 42 Basic-Built: Home/shop storage cart

Find everything you nel'd at your locafhOOlf' (enter to (raft Ihi~ Ili!ndy mobil!.' weh-all.

58 Three-window photo frame 68 Ikebana vase

Gol an evening lind a few smdll hardwood s<raps? Make Ihi~ distinctiye gift.

72 Turning project: 4-in-' screwdriver 76 Scrollsawn holiday ornaments

A unique way \0 send festive greMlngs.

80 Suapwood project: Key<:hain 90 Router-table pushpad

TOOLS & MATERIALS 12 2-minute router-bit tuneup 24 Wise buys: Hoselt» brad nailers 62 Shop-tested: Benchtop drill presses

You d()n't net'd to Ipt'fld a lor lime 10 gel a (apable drill press. We found three faves for under $300.

70 Shop-tested: Marking and measuring tools 88 Shop-proven products

Ullimatt tabl~ roolfr, r~tprooftablt5.lw top. mort.

This seal is your a5surance that we build .... ery project, verify f!tIery fact, and te,t every reviewed tool in O\Jr workshop to guarantee your success and complete s.atisfaction.

• Issue

•

68

TECHNIQUES 36 Suspended wood ceiling

(heck OUI this mY-la-make yet l'lflJ'lnt altemativt' to office-5tyll! lIcouSlit tile.

48 How to build a super-simple drawer 84 How to make faux tenons

DEPARTMENTS 8 Editor's Angle

10 Sounding Board 14 Shop Tips 92 Ask WOOD

108 What's Ahead

November 2007 Issue 180

12

on the web-woodmagazine.com

MAKE SAWDUST, MAKE A FRIEND Find a woodworking dub or guild in your area by visiting woodmagazine.com/dubs. You can even (reate a free listing for your own dub.

FIND ANY ARTICLE FAST! Search 23 years of WOOD magazine in seconds. Go to woodmagazine .com/index and type a keyword that describes the tool (Urnuter"), project ("bench w

), or technique (~dovetain. Instantly, you11 get a list of all the articles related to that word.

Members of the Annapolis (Md.) Woodworkers' Guild

VENEERING TIPS ON VIDEO Master craftsman Mar( Adams gives you tons of tips and tricks on veneering. Check out our fREE l1 -part video series, hosted by Marc. Click on the "'Snap-Tested Tf{hnjques~ tab at woodmagazine.ctml/videos.

5 W A P YOU R How (ana guy get any work done in herem larry Schwager

S H 0 P S H 0 T S of Jerome, ldaho, just built his first woodworking shop, btkJw, and he posted photos or it at woodmagilzme.com!shop'ibots in the Idea Gallery. See more photos or post your own!

3

WOOD~ Magazine

2005 Back Issues

on CD

• Store 7 issues in the space of a thin paperback.

• Quickly find articles using the search feature.

• Print pages and patterns for in-shop use.

• Includes active links to online resources.

You'll find: 82 Projects

61 Tool Reviews

72 Shop Tips

58 Skill-~uilding Techmques and Much More!

To order your (0 go to woodmagazine.comnOO5

or call toll-free 888·636-4478 $24.95 + $3 5&H

WOl107

November 2007

()wen recently ~picl .. e /'Imf bookffi<h," VlI~ •• Ild a jl'wek)I box itS gifts.

Vol. 24, No.6

EDlTOR-IN·CHlff 1 1l1.ItRlEIl

Manaq"'9 EOltOl' Deputy [<litor MAllLEH IUlN" DAYE tAMf'8(l1.

Art Dir«1OI' Stnlor ~ Editor lAM. EHUItS KEVIN IOYl£

Techniq~ Editor Tool &: TtdIn.qut< fdtor 101 WIlSOH lOtI Ht/NTOt ~

ProjfW fditor Projecu tditDr owtH DUVALL JAN swe

Des;Qn Editor JEi!: MDITZ

MullJlnedi.l Editor , •• uoci.lte All Otreclor Anil'~nt Art Dlr«tor UXAS I'mltS GREG SELLIRS CHERYl A.. 08Ul..A

Production/OffiCi Milllger MARGARET ClOSNER

Mmlrol,tflM A.s~\I""!\ SHERYl MUNYON

Photographerl MARTY BALDWIN, JASON OONNElLY, DEAN SCHOEPPNER, JAYWII..DE

, .lulltWln TIM CAHILL. LORNAJOHNSOH, ROXANNf uMOINE

~t Va~'s Diy, leff surpoMd ~ wife wrth this rni!.Von rocking (hilI.

4

Technbl Com.ultinU Jlf' HIilL. PAt lOWAY

CootJibuling Ct,!tl.IIVIl JIM HEAVEY 1'Joo!~1Ideri '''8S I[LflN, IRA LACMU. JIM SANDERS

5118SC11l8U SERVICE Go 10 wood,..".rirw.(om/help or wrik 10

WOOD ~ P,O.b 3709, Boone, IA 50037-0<139

Bwnes! ~ .l(FF snus Auoc:~le Con~ Milftrting o,rKtOt DAN !+OUANO

AnOClolie Director c4 MitI'kell"9.Newutaod roM DEERING

Serlior Produc~on MaNogtr MELANIE STOLTlNBERG

,lr,d'iertislng Operdllorl! Milnil9er' JIM NELSOH

E-Commerce ~nager MATT SNYDER

Group Publllhtr TOM DAVIS

MERtDlTli PUaUSHtNG GROUP

PJe5IOt!nt JACK GRIFFIN utculIve'llte Pn:wUc:1'It DOUG OLSON

Editon.l D'rKlor MIKE. LAFAVORE Finlnte lr Admlnlltralion MIKE RIGGS

ManuiKlunng SAUCl HE.STON Con~ ~r\eting DAVID IAlL Corpor~e ~ JACK 8AM8ERGER Inter",1ive Medi.1 lAU1tENWlfNER

Corpcnte Mlrbl-.g NANCYWQlEA A~<lf(h BRITTA WARE

~~ PI'~nt .nd Chl<ef utwM Otfic« STU'HEN M..lACY

(hIwmitI'I ~ 1M I<Nrd WIUIAM f . KERR

In~ U . Mer.dllh 1M11 91l-ZOOJ)

Our subscril:leo Ikt 1$ ocu~1y rMdot .... wble to c~uRy Iriected tirms ...t\ose products may b. 01 IntefMI. to you. If )IOu prefer not to recelYe information "om tnne comP<l'niei by ma.il or Or pI'lont. plea~ lei U~ 'mow. Send your ~uHt ~1on9".;lh your m.l~ng I.lbel to Magulrle C~omer Servke, PO Bo~ 10263, Des MoInes, IA ~3~263.

~( .. ,.IIIII"'",111 ... ,.,01/" 1M' .... ~, .. , ........ , hl.I04IoIIoo'.I. '

IsslH! No. 180

Bot> designed and buill. j)lir of cr..orry s.ot~ Uble!.

.111.1 N ovember 2007

INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS DESIGNED FOR PRACTICAL USE

W1874 2 UP SIIAPER

Optional D312~ IX\enilan Tab"

AvoIlDbIe

.. 2 HP, 11012201/, single-phase molor

.. Large precision ground OOsl Iron IOble

+ Table size: 2'")(2' · .. Spindles: 'h~ &, 1/," (flcludtd) .. Spindle travel: 3" t Splndle speeds: 7,000 & 10,000 RPM .. SpIndle openings: 1 Yo", 3 'h" &c 5" .. Heavy-duty miter gauge .. ApprolL Shipping weight: 293 Ibs.

"'1742 IS" PLANER w/CAST IRON WINGS &: &-IOUILE BASE

.. 3 HP. 220V, single-pilose moIOf

.. Table &Ill : 15" )1. 20'

t Mnx. cuttirtg heighT: 8" .. Min. stock lfIickneu: 1/),'

.. Min. slock lenglh: 8" + Mall. cunlng depth: ';.' .. Cutterlleod dlo.: 3" .. Cuttslhood knives : 3 HSS

Intemal Magnetic

Safety SwITch wlThermal OVerload Protection

.. ClItterh80d .~ed : 5000 RPM .. feed ro19: 16 FPM ", 30 FPM .. ,\ppm •. lhlpplng w.Jghl: 875 Ibt.

-WI743 RHAVY-DlIT'f 1I0R11SING Mi\CHINB w/CAHINET ST,,""D

.. l Y.! HP, l1OVI22OV. si~e-phose.

TEFC, 1725 RPM mofOl' • Tobie slle: I g" JI. 12'h"

.. W1747

.. Vertical spindle trovel: 9"

.. Head vertical trovel: 3M

.. Tobie long. frovel: 14'h" • Tobie cross trovel: 3M

.. Fence angle: 0 • 30· + Spindle Speed: 1725 RPM

+ ApproJl.. ship[>ing weight:

31Slbs.

.o(.fJl9!\),. Head TN •

.~ 3O· l.R

Handles Every1tli'tg from standard cabinet

Door Sties 10 Posts (J'Id Beams

Up to 9'" WIde

20" PLANER ",/ CAST IROft: "'lNGS

• 5 HP. 220V, single-phase motor • Precision glOund lnfeed &: oUffee<! tobles .. Tobie size: 25't." x 20"

• Cuffing heighT: 8" .-l , (55'!." x 20" w/extensiOns) •

• Max. depth 01 cut: v.- , .:. + CuMerheod speed: 5000 RPM

.. CuMerhsod diD. : 31A"

.. Feed rotes: 16 Ie 20 FPM

• Approx. SI1ipping weight: 900 Ibs.

2 Cost Iron Extension

Toblel 15" x 21 '/."

W1750 0" X 89" OSCILlATING EDGE SANDER + 2 HP. 220V. singte-pIlO:se. TEFC motor • Precision ground cost iren robles .. Tobie siZe: 28"*" x 12" .. Tobie trovel: 3¥4" ven .. 5" 00r1z .

• Aux. fable travel: 10" + SOndlng be" speed: 3150 RPM .. OsCillation stroke: Ij." + Drive drum dlo .: 7"

• 3 Spindle drums: I'll". 'l' & 3" x 4'h" H • Approl. shipping weight: 462 IDs.

TIltlnq Gf"aphite Coaled Ptaten

-" 110 9001 Foct.., IneludH

-'diustable MitetGauge ., Removable

Fence

W1741 • 8"JOINTER • w/ PARALLELOGRAM ADJUSTABLE BEDS

+ 3 HP, 220V. sln~phcrse. TEFC. J4~ RPM mofof + Precblon grotlnd cos! Iron parallelogram desllJll

10111& slz.: S" x 76'(,.'

+ Inl'80 tcble Sire: S" I 43%" .. CaS! kon lenee si2e: 35"1.. IWW. 5'"H .. Cullerhead dla. : 3';', + Cullarheod kntvu: 4 HSS

• Cuttefhead spHd: 5350 RPM • Max. raDbeHng depth; %' .. Max. deplll of CUI: 'A'

.. Max. 'll'ldlll 01 cllt: 8"

• Ajlprox. sIlIp~ wefglll: 600 bI. ,

...

Intemal MogneHc

Solety Switch w/The<mOl Ovar1oad Protection

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PRECISION IS IN THE DETAilS. Fine woodworking is all about precis io n. No one knows that better than

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deltaportercable.com . Because when precision is at stake , we don ' t just

pay attention to the details. We obsess over them .

Your

We all make mistakes -learn how top woodworkers

fix them! Solve workshop goofs with these tried-and-true solutions:

V Ensure tight, just-right joinery

V End measuring and marking snafus

V Hone your hand-tool skills

V Jointing and planing pointers

V Oriliing do's & don'ts

V Router remedies

~Dlliineat woodmagazine.com/publications

or call toll-fret! 888-636-4478 $6.99 U.s., $8_99 Canada

WD 1107

Editor's Angle ____ _ Making it easy for you to find past articles You've been there-the grocery

store checkout line where you're asked: "Paper or plastic?"

[ typically opt for paper, knowing 1 can rell~ the paper sack for any number of shop purp()~ (such as a kraft backing for picture frames). But faced with a similar question: "Paper or internet for an index of past WOOl':' magazine articlesr I opt for the Internet.

Why? The advantages of putting the index onto our Web sIte are so powerful (I'll describe them in a bit) that I haven't given much thought to putting an index into the magazine since we last puhlished one in 2000. But a recent meeting I had with a group of wood­workers convinced me that I need to discuss this subject hNe.

It started with a focus group From time to time, we sit down with a group of woodworkers to find out what we're doing right in the magazine and what we could be dOing better. On one such occasion, members of the Des Moines Woodworkers Association told me how much they missed having a paper index. And truth be told, we get the same comment from a lot of other readers who write or e-mail us.

Obviously, we n~ to do a better job of letting you know that our online index does exist and informing you of ilS benefits.

To find the online index, simply go to woodmagazlne.com and click on the HArticie Tndex" box in the upper left of the page. You'lJ go to a search-engine page where you enter a word or two describing the article you want to find. For best results, follow I hese tips:

first, enter one word that describes, in a general way, the article you are looking for. (To make the index work, we "mark" each article with an average of 18 words that best describe its contents.) If you enter one of those "marked" words, the article will show up in a listing. For example, if you're trying to find a Shaker-style bed project, Simply enter Hbed" in the search field. A Shaker-style bed will show up in a listing of other bed-related articles. Enter two wordS, say "shaker

8

II: Article Index -,

bed," only if the listing you get with a single word is too long.

One more tip: Make sure you've spelled the search word correctly. The search engine won't ask you "Do you mean rabbet?'" it you're looking for tips on rabbet joinery but enter the word "rabbit."

Why an online index makes so much sense The biggest limitation of a paper index: It becomes obsolete as soon as the next issue of the magazine comes out. The online Index is always up to date, with articles from issue 1 (O(..1:oher 1984) through today. Including this issue, the online Index search('s more than 3,000 articles, so you don't have to wade through mUltiple annual Indexes to find an article. And, if you don't have th~ Is~u~ that the artlcl~ appearoo In, the online index often tells you how to obtain that article.

Finally, our onlin~ index doesn't eat up valuable pages in the magazine­pages that Instead we arc able to devote to marc projects, tips, tool reviews, and the other coverage you enjoy so much in each issue.

!fyou haven't used the online index lately, go ahead and try it. I think you'l! like it . •

WOOD m ag.llne N<l'Veffiber 2007

If you've ever wondered wnat a lablesaw can really do, look no furtner. Introducing tne new JET- 10· DELUXE XACTN~

SAW. The qUick release rivi ng knife and integrated arbor lode keops the operator safe and more efficient. The DELUXE XACTA" SAW offers an upgraded Poly-V belt drive system for smooth operation and optimal power transfer, a fully shrouded blade for nighly efficient dust collection. The 2S"x30" wings and deeper table gives you ellen more cast iron to work on. A built-in 12.5" x1S" x4' storage drawer sealed from the cabinet keeps your necessi ties witnin arms reach, also includos an on-board fence and miter gauge storage. Go to jettools.com and your quality Jet dealer today and you'll find out why Jet products truly are Bui lt Botlor to Build Better""

www.JetTools.com/WOOD 11);001 VIMIITOC I roli!)U~, lIO.; Tlwlwl<w lMllTE il. "')<laM '",,"''''''' oI WMHToo l G r,,"~ . "" Ci rd& NQ 1588

Sounding Board ~~.~----------

Our bulletin board for letters, comments, and timely updates

Simple geometry pinpoints a speedier way to locate table legs While reading your article on how to build the three-legged plant stand In issue 175 (Marc.h 2007), I remembered a qUicker way to layout the locations for the legs on the top ring and shelf. (I found the idea while helping my daughter with her geometry home-

\

-':

I work.) Here's how it works: Draw your cIrcle with a compass. Without adJust­ing the compass, make a beginning mark anywhere on the Circle, position the compass point on that mark, and then draw a short arc that intersects the drdf'. MOve the compass point to that

mark and draw another intersecting arc. Repeat until the last mark intersects the first, as shown at (Uf left. You now have six equidistant points, from which you can choos.e three (as shown with a triangle near left) to layout the notches for the legs.

-/(nth Hogan, Palt1twillt, Ohio

I Article updates Issue 177 Uul y 20(7) • In the review of trim routers on page 45, the bit opening on the Porter-Cable 310 subbase should be 10/1.", as listed in the chart on page 46. Also, Grizzly does not offer optional bases for its model H7791 trim router.

Issu e 178 (SelJtember 2007) • The MLCS Merle band clamp (part #9012, S27; 800-533-9298 or mlcswoodworking.com) featured on page 110 uses a 23" steel band rather than fabric.

- - - - -- --~~ -

Teen wins contest with first woodworking project Your eaSY-la-follow plans helped a 16-year.old family friend, Jessica Kelly. build her first woodv.vrking project. Jessica asked me to help her learn WOOdworking, and I was happy to oblige. After looking through my past issues of WOOL>' magaZine, she decided on the Arts« Crafts night­stand from issue 159 (November 2004). We shortened it 2" to match the height of her bed, built the top with a mitered frame, enclosed the back with a

HOW TO REACH US • For woodwcMting Htke:

Post )'Our woodwofking QUesrio01 (jointry, finhl'llng, tools, turning,. 9(!neral woodworting. tK) OOOM 0(

14 ~nllne forums at woodmagazlne.cOtll/forums.

• To cunlact OUf ftillon:

10

SEnd yourcommen« via E-mail to woodrr»il0NoochmgaIine.com; or write II) WOOD magazine, 1716 Locust St~ l5-2l1. ~ MoInti.I" 50309.

plywood panel, and chose a different I style of drawer handle. i Jessica entered her nightstand in a I regional woodworking competition i through her school and heat out nearly 'I 100 contenders to take first prize-the I only girl ever to win. Now she says she's I hooked on the hobby, and her next I proiect will be the matching dresser in

Issue J 60 (December/january , 2004/2005).

-Dan WOHmurh, Cairo, Mo.

• SUbsaiption HlisulKe: To notify us of an acldr~s <mnge, 01 to gtt kip with ')'OIl1 wbscriplioo, visit woodrn.,wIM.conIsenlu:. Or WIKt(1) WOOD m.19UilM'. P.D. Sax 31439, Boone, I" s0037-0439. Plme Mld~)'OUr adliless label from a !'Kent rna9Uine Isr.ue.

• To find put IrlldK: See our 1000. ~t woodmagazine.tomfmdex.

• Toord«put IsSUH ItId IrfldH: Ord~ past Isr.uts of 1+000 magazine, our ~I iooes,. or downloadable ¥lidel, fum issue 100 to prtStfIt Visit our ooliflt stOlt at woodmagazinuonVstOft. Some issu~!al~ sold out

• Upcl,uM to prmousty' ptlbllsh~ projecu: For an ulHO-dalt lining of cllanges in dimensions ~nd buying-gulde wtruS from is.sut J tIlrough tiXlay, go 10 woodrugoulrM.comltdltorbi.

W OOD magazIne November 1007

I . . .. ,. ~ . .

Router Clinic

2-Minute Router-Bit Tune-Up I t's tempting to just -grab and go"

when chucking up a router bit. And why not? The bit worked flne the

[as! time you used It. The truth is that t he effects of use

(and sometimes abuse) accumulate, and the more you use a router bit, the less effc(,:tive it hecomt'~. Here are four essential steps to tale bE'fore using a router bit:

1 Inspect for dirt, damage Using it bright light- and ill magnifirr If ne<enllfy- thorougnly examine the bit. Look for dirt Of deposits on the Shilnk that might interfere with chucking up the bit, as well as gunk on the bit body iIInd cutten. Examine the cutting edges carefully by shining the light right on the edge. A sharp edge will be nearly Invillble, but dull or damaged urbkle wilt reriKt noticeably IS you turn the bit in the light. as shown. This bullnose bIt was dropped onto a concrete floor, damaging one cutting edge.

2 Clean from tip to shank Give the bit a thorough clean[ng to remove built-up dust, hardened pitch, and other deposits that may Interfere with the (ut. Remove the bearing, where necessary. and spray the bit with a good-quality bit cleaner. (See Sources.1 Lei It sland for a few minutes. and then wipe the softened deposits away With II clean cloth or paper towel. YelU might be surprised at how much gunk will come off even the cleanest-looking bits. u~ a toothpick or s.oft brass brush to scrape debris from the recesses of the cutting edges and from the bearing, if the bit hIS one.

J Lubricate the bearings If the bit has a bearing. spin it with your fingers to be sure [t turns freely. 8e ... rlngs mustlurn rreely to keep from burni"9 workpiece edges. A drop of machine 011 (or the lubricant that comet with the Bits .. "' kit. sou,ced at rightl will do the trick. Let illoak in for a second. and then spin the bearing several times to allow the lubricant to seep into the bearing and thoroughly coat internal parts. Wipe aoway any excess from the outside of the bearing. as well as Iny lube that may have gotten onto the bit body.

12

4 Hone the cutting edges A fine or extra-fine handheld diamond hone works best, but be sure to hone only the tlat fMe of the (utter. not the angled edge. A few swipes with the hone before each use 1$ usually enough to keep bits at their best. If a bit will be used extensively. take it out of the router from time 10 time and hone it again. For badly dulled bits lor bits with dam.ged cutting edges), (onsider a professional sharpening Of replacement.

Sources Itt clune": Bits.Mfkit, SlOIEmpWe M'nufKtUl"irlg. 866-700 S823,empiftinfv.coml;8Ibde& 8rt.8oz.. $11) (~Id. SOO»6l·1712,l:IoWIield.com) Df.lftond honeI: 'Credit card' dlamond ~ cards, in wee grits. S12 eath (Woodcraft. 800·225·1153, wooOOJfuomJ .

W OOD maga:r.1n.. Novern~ 2007

AWARDED M OST INNOVATIVE History has II tendency to repeat itself. It has again with the award-winning POWERMATIC PM2000. We have added an all-new hardwood workbern:;h extension lable to the lisl of available models, sothe PM2000 is now even more eHective for aU vour woodworking projects. fhe PM2000 still comos oqulpped w ith an industry fint arbor lock. lind inlegr llted caSler system, II true quick release riving knife. blade guard system, end Is backed by the industry's moS! durable 5-year warranty. Find Ihe model most suiled 10 your needs III II local POWERMATIC deoler or at www.powermatic.com/wood

C;rQktNo.16t12

ShOR-TipS Helping you work faster, smarter, and safer

Simple and superior shelf pin templates like most people, I've long mcd a simple perfoTated~hardboard template and a drill press to make shelf· pin holes. But the drill-press template was not completely accurate because the template holes tended to get hlgger with each use. fly abandoning the drill press in favor of a plunge router and the jig you see here, I am ilOW able to use the same jig hundreds of times with no variation in the shelf-pin hole spacing.

The basic idea i" to use one jig, specifically a dovetail jig, to make

template

Top Shop Tip another, the shelf-pin jig. Use the bits and bushings described in the illustra­tions both to build the jig and then use it. The dovetail template eliminates measuring and ensures perfect hole­spacing. In fact, the jigs are so easy and inexpensive to build that I made them in several lengths to accommodate various cabinet sizes.

-jerry Collins, GtI:lrgetown, Tt .... as

".

Two squares pinpoint the center of a circle

14

While trying to find the center of a circle, it occurred to me that pairing a combina­tIon square and a framing square should help do the trick. 1 clamped the squares together with a spring clamp as shown, and then marked a center line. Next, I rotated the disc about 90G -it's not critical- and marked another line that intersects with the first. That intersection is the center of the circle.

-lim 5krocAi, PaiMsvilil', Ohio

conDnued 0/1 page 18

When we caught up with Jerry Collins, he was ~between shops," making an intrastate movi" from Tomball to Georgetown, Texas. And, admittedly, he was getting antsy to get back to the business of crafting his wooden toys. "My favorites are the rocking toys," he says, such as the rocking Harley-Davidson motorcycle he built (shown at lower right in the photo above). As Jerry reassembles his shop, we look forwa rd to seeing more Top Shop Tips like the one at left.

Consider It a shop-warming gift, Jerry: a DeWalt DW73S portable planer with our compliments for sending the Top Shop Tip.

Top tips earn tools! Tell us how you've solved a workshop stumper, and you'll get $75 if we print it. And, if your tip garners Top Shop Tip honors, we'll reward you with a tool prize worth at least $250.

Send you r best shop solutions, along with photos or illustrations and your daytime telephone number, to: Shop Tips, WOOD Magazine, 1716 Locust SL, LS-221 , Des Moines, IA 50309·3023. Or, e-mail your tips to: shoptips@Woodmagazine.com. Remember to include your contact info in the e-mail as well.

Because we publish onl)' original tips, please send your pointers only to WOODs magazine. Sorry, su bmitted materials can't be returned.

WOOD magazine NOV1!moo 2007

I ! v

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For more Informadon or I dealer near you, coil '·100 ..... '-9171 or visl, us at www.f.inua.com. ~ rw the ..... FEIN InIoo..-daI -rrint Jodi " .......... Pat Sim ....... of HGTVI

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No tool does it better. From cutting sheet goods to Silel~-::_c:;:;:::~:!!!~~~::!:::~:~==~;;~;,~;.;:=::~= ripping planks to width, or sculpting precise joints, the tableo;aw Is your go-to machIne for fast, accurate t

results. Of COUT5e, to tap its van potential you murt operate it safely and effectively and equip it with the proper acct'SSOries and jigs. In this article and related free jig plans, tips, and videos on the Web, you' ll get the help you need for top results.

Watth two fret videos demonstrating the thrH shop·madejigs snown in thisartidt! as wei as tips on tuning up a tableYw at wGOdmag3Jine.(omhrickout.

TENONING JIG FOR CRISP CUTS

YOU don't need a high-priced dado set to cut dean, precise mortise tenons, stub tenons, and half· lap joints.

A tenoning Jig firmly supports your workpiece while you make the tricky cheek tuts with (ideally) a 40· or 50·tooth combination/ general.purpose blade. Look for a model, such as the DELTA 34 ·184 ~/ow, with a T·slot guide bar Ihat adjusts to fit your saw's miter slot for smoothly and precisely

sliding the workpiece Into a cut. A qulck· re lease mechanism for switching between cheek cuts is another handy feature .

RIP THIN STRIPS EASILY

T his bo!lsic jig gives you more than just use·of·rnind-It yie lds thin strips of precisely the same width "II day long_

To adJust It you simply tighten the knob on the sliding arm to lock in the o!IpproKimate width of the strip, Imd then fine·tune the strip width by turning the brass screw. Find c:omplete plans for building one at woodmagazine.comi trickout.

OUTFEED TABLE GIVES YOU SUPPORT

For cutting large workpleces, there's iust no substitute for a generous outfeed table. It helps you make clean cuts

by improving your leverage and keeping your foc:us on the cut, not worrying about losing control of Ihe workpiece. The DELTA mOdel 50·302, ~Iow, level~ flu ~h with your ~aw's top,

and It quickly folds down

when not -'~._ needed.

(A smaller table slaYi in place fo r shorter workpieces.) Nothing fancy, but boy, will It do wonders for your woodworking.

ON·THE·MONEV MITER JIG

Once you build this little beauty, you can rest assured thatyaur miter~ will always match up. Use the prlKess In the drawings

btlow right to temporarily attach each fen ce with double-faced tape. Test the fences for accuracy by cutting four sample pieces, each about , - wide and -4" lon9. Hold them together with II rubber band, and check for any gaps at the miters. Adjust the position of the fen ces as necessary. Then, permanently attilch each fence to the base with two #8><1'1~' screws. Finally, It 's a good Idea to aUlieh adhesive-backed, 100'g rit sandpapecr to the fence faces . This will he lp prevent your workpieces from slipping during cut'l.

45' miter l--"'~S x 1 'I<" F.H . wood screw

PANEL·CUTTING SLED

W hen you use this panel·

cutting sled, you'll never wonder whether the (orner you just cut Is square. For hair-splitting accuracy, the beefy fence Is fixed at 90' to the blade and shows u:actly where your saw blade cuts. And, the fence· leading design holds wider workpleces more ~olldly and keeps your work closer than fence­trailing /lgs.

Build the jig according to t he drawing at righ t. We made ours from birch-veneer plywood wIth a solid poplar tence, but you could use any 'h" plywood or medium-densit y fiberboard and a straight scrap of 2 >< 4. Cut both pieces 1,,· longer than shown; you'll trim them to their exact length after you build the Ilg.

Nott: A well-tuned tablesaw is essential-its blade must be perfectly parallel to the miter slot to complete this project. See woodmagazlne.com/ trkkout for information on tuning up your tablesaw.

With the sled's guide bar in your tablesaw's miter­gauge slot, crank the saw blade up to full height. Run the sled through the blade, slicing off the extra ' ..... from both the base and the fence.

You can now cut with confidence by aligning the cut line on your workpiece with the edge of the fence. For repetitive cuts less than 21", damp a stop block to the fence. When cutting pieces up to 48", Ia<:k In the sled's built-In stop bla<:k.

,,,. 45· mitar

.~

Miter-slot guide

Miter-slot guides

ATIACHING THE MITER FENCES

Step 1

Same dimensJOn

Draw a tine across the base parallel 10 its front edge. Center ItHl inside corner of a framing SQuare 00 the kerf and rotate it until the same dimension 00 both legs 01 the square intersects the parallel line.

See more details en bUlldmg thlH-e jigs at .IOGdmJ~d!ln,' (r,rr tmkout.

o

Step 2 Attach the right-hand lence along one leg of the framing square and the left lace against the other.

STOP DETAIL

v. x 2' F.HIC. --_II madline screw

~. hole (drill before cutting slot)

v, x 2',," R.H. machIne screw with head cuI off Epoxy wing nut 'A,' 8101 1 v,' long

80 machlna screw

¥.)( 1'h x 3' stop

~ V., ,. F H. , •• J ·-~jc·Tcn"," machine screw _._ l...d'"

~ W Ihreadad insen. ;..----~ , V, " SAE flat washer v." lock nl.ll

:yj,'rod24'1ong l~

r'v" lociI.nut 2~~ v.' SAE

2" 1 'I,' flat washer ~~::::'-,,<~ 2V."

..,..y 12"':' , 'hole

2'· 'h x18x27' plywood

=Yi x 0/," x IS ' Sloe!< -:-..... ~~9~ • Or the Width of the mner gauge slot. II not ¥."

v." round-overs

Shop n~

A hot tip to hold hinges steady I bulld quite a few wall clocks and other pieces that need smaller hinges, and it's always a challenge to align the door or lid perfectly with the box. For foolproof alignment, I apply a dab of hotmclt glue to the hinges using the technique shown at right. Aft!!r just a few seconds, I can safely open the door, drill pilot holes, and install a couple of screws. Finally. I back the screws out, break the glue bond, scrape off the glue re.~idue,

and finish installing the hinges. - Roooid Milltr, McPherson, Ken.

Check all that apply:

With the hinges mounted to 1M caM, apply hotmelt glue

the - :::::::::1

I have a colltdion of old dull drill bits I just can't throw NOY. I'd rather spend my money on ..., tools ttun on buying _ .. bits. ,-,-........ .., ............ , ...... _-.. ---...,111 ... 1iII

Clrcl6No. 1511

.... hinges.

Get a totally gnarly grip on your boards Through Illy many yearS of reading WOODe magazine, I'm still amazed at the uncommon Ideas used to solve common problems in the shop. I recently had one when I helped my son overhaul his skateboard.

Skateboard grip-the stuff 'boarders put on top to make a non-Sl ip surface­has an extremely strong self-adhesive backing with a grit-textu red surface. I started using the grip on my push blocks, mitersaw fe nces, and other jigs and tools where I don't want wood to creep during machini ng, It 's totally awesome!

The grip comes in sheets or rolls and a va riety of styles. You can even use bright colors to make your shop a little m ore "rad." You'll find it at any decent skateboard shop and some sporting­goods stores.

- Robert GOlbraith, Oshawa, Onl.

Sk'''~''''''P~~r

18 W OOD mag..a.lfne November 2007

Sacrificial Insert saves sled's In~~~~ _________________ -----, My tablesaw crosscut sled has been one of the most useful tools in my workshop. However, I've also found that, unless I use the same blade each time, the kerf widens and I can't rely on It anymore fur chip-free cuts. And I can't make bevels or dado cuts without trashing the sled. My solution: sacrificial inserts over both cutting areas of the saw.

To apply this idea in your shop, first determine the maximum cutting width of the ~w from a 4SQ bevel cut to a full dado stack at 0 0 bevel. Then, set back the l/."-plywood sled bed ¥ro" from each side to create a shou lder for the insert. Use the same technique to Sile and locate the vertical sacrificial insert for the rear fence. Attach the inserts with wood screws, keeping the screw IH.·ads below the surface of the insert so they won't accidentally scratch a workpiece.

You can now install different inserts for each blade, bevel angle, or dado size. When either insert no longer provides the needed zero-clearance, Simply replace It.

-Don Mullikin, SI. Ptttnburg. flo.

Safe storage for sharp garbage Every once in awhile, I throwaway something by mistake and have to do a little digging in the trash to retrieve It. I get skittish, though, because I never know if I'm gOing to plunge my hand onto something sharp. To prevent this potential hazard, I kee.p a small medi­cine bottie on my workbench in which I accumulate used utility knife blades, razor blades, and other sharp waste products. When the bottle is filled, I cap it and discard it.

-Stanley Krawvic, HontJook, Po.

Medicine bottle

~ --Child-proof cap

continued 0" page 20

woodmJlgJlzllM.com 19

.6x%" . wood.crews

'fI" plywood

'14" plywood sacrif icial ,,,,""r-_ r

Sawdust It ilNades )'Our workshop, threatening to take over. But with C~nStream Pro Filters on )'Our side, sawdust doesn't stand a chance. CleanStream ados true HEPA filtration to ~LI( weVdry vae. So no maner what kind of dust ~LI're sucking up, 99.91% of even the linest particles, down to 0.3 microns, are kepI out of the air. CleanStream won't clog, and it lasts looger thar! any other filter out there. "We eYf!rl have a Orte·ye3r guarantee to P[l]Vl! it. Declare victory over sawdust tooay. With C\eanStream. www.cleansrream.com

eire'" No_ 2124

Are uon best? Shop Tips A leash for the glue-bottle cap All of us have experienced the problem of the elusive glue-bottle cap. As we work on a project, the cap gets harder and harder to put back on the bottle, W

we eventually leave it off. Then it immediately disappears. To solve this problem, I attached the cap to the hottle using a 6" length of string.

-ROfJ Alfi!!" We'l"t LO(f1)'ttlt , Ohio

Odd-shaped piece? Strap that rascal down Not everything a woodworker has to deal with has straight sides or square corners to help secure it. Sometimes, as in the case of burl, it can be as hard to hold onto as a greased pig. To clamp large, irregular-shaped material to a workbench, use a web damp fed through a dog hole, under the bem:h, and over the object.

- jome! Morin, WtSt Hartford, Conn.

WOOD mag..:ln" Nowmb« 2007

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M ake contractor-saw dust disappear In a flash(lng) Capturing dust from my contractor-style tablesaw has always bet>n impossible beCa1.1Se of the wide-open bottom . But recently, I spotted an aU-metal Chimney flas h Ing at a home center and immediately recognized I had my solution.

The flashing has a 16xlS" base large enough to sandwich firm ly between the saw's leg stand and the top unit to basicaUy seal the housing. To create a coupling for my dust­collection system, 1 widened the tapered 3V2" opening to 4", inserted a 4" metal elbow, caulked the connection to ~allt, and fastened the two together with pop rivets.

The small openings around the blade adjustments provide a little replacement air fo r better airflow, and I now catch 98 percent of the dust that was getting away before.

- Erin Bffin<m, Toledo, Ohio

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Frugal filters for fine dust collection The microfi ltering bags and filters made ~pedally for catching fine dust in shop vacuums can get expensive after replacing a few. But the one" sold fur standard upright vacs are much more economical. I buy the cheap ones; then modify them to fit my shop vacuum.

To retrofit the bag, I first cut the top off just past the point that includes the small opening. Next, I turn the bag Inside out so the air wIll still flow through the filter in the norma l direction, slip it over the foam filter of my shop vacuum, and usc the standard retaining ring to hold it in place . •

-Berry Ter-rtl!, HOUSlOn, TtxOJ;

Wa5te portio n or , ,,'U,,"! t lner

22

What's SecretTo Flawless Edge

With NO REWORK?

.. ",.·c~ ". '~ How It

• ~v Works!

Wise Bu~ Why buy?

Our Experts Test

No-Hose Brad Nailers

Eighteen-gauge brads can make project assembly a cla mp-free task, and they also work great for installing tri m and molding in homes. With brads, you get the lenglh-21f." is t he maximum-of a 15· or 16-gauge f inish nail, but with a smaller hole to f ill . Gas- or battery-powered brad na ilers handle these jobs just as well as their pneumatic CO USins, but wi thout the fuss of dragging around an ai r compressor and ho~. They also make the perfect tool for a t rim carpenter returning to a job site for punch -l ist work.

PA$LODE IM200F18, 5270

SENCO FINISH 25 $350

Editor test -drive: I never realized how restricted I was unti l I used Paslode's gas-powered brad na iler. Before, I was tethered to my air compressor and hose, but no longer! The IM200F18 drives brads-and sinks them--into any hardwood or sheet goods. Before tru~ting it to install tr im in my hou~e, I drove several sizes of brads into I;'" hard maple, plywood 5ubflooring, and even 2" red oak. It never fai led to sink even one brad. With that confidence, , used it to insta ll fir baseboard, shoe molding, and door and window tr im in my home, and it performed ' Iawlessly.

Editor test-drive: It's heavy and feels awkward at first, but after using the 14.4 -volt rechargeable Senco Finish 25 on a few jobs I knew it woul d become a permanent add it ion to my shop. As a cabinetmaker who also

W'~~~;:~;";:';I"' to makes custom molding, I'm working on BI 2'1," job sites as much as in my shop, so I

appreciate the 'reedom the Finish 25 affords me. It's a real t imesaver to not have to lug around an air compressor and hose-and I don't have to worry about scratching a client 's hardwood floors, cabinets, or (Quntertops.

The Finish 25 has ample power for driving brads in ha rdwoods as well as

The lM200F18 requires a 6-vol t rechargea ble battery as well as gas-f illed fuel cells (replacement cells cost S5 each). Together they spark a small explosion to drive a piston, like t he engine in your car. I drove more than 1,200 nails before exhausting the first cell-without draining the battery. The nailer has an adjustable depth setting that proved easy to use, and the rubber bumper on the nose prevented dents in the wood.

-Te-5/rd by ~in 80~, SenieJr lksign Editor

To learn more: 800-682-3428; paslode-cordless.com

pine and plywood. Although it has multiple depth settings, I left it on the deepest sel t ing most of the t ime and was pleased w ith the resul t s. It has excellent tip visi bili ty for brad p lacement, and it never left an indentat ion on the wood. I also like that it w ill not f ire w hen the magazine empties, protecting the driver. Still, I w ish the na iler was smaller to reach into t ight spaces, and that it would stand on its battery. It comes w ith two batteries and a one-hour charger.

-Ttsted by 8en Svec. Coorriooling Crofumon

To learn more: 800-543- 4596; senco.com

It's not exactly hoseless, but you don't n eed a coml~r.~ssor Editor test-drive: I have to admit it: I was intrigued by Kobalt 's J-6901-100 compressed-air regulator because it looks cool, but at the ~ame time I was skeptical of its abilities. Here's how it works: A tank filled with compressed carbon dioxide (COl) provides the power for your pneumatic brad nailer (not included). You control the COl pressure with the regulator, which clips onto your belt.

It didn't take long to d ial in the regulator, but it worked best at the maximum of 120 psi; lower levels just didn't sink longer nails. Using my own nailers, I drove 2", l8-gauge brads into red oak and hard maple, and it socked them in perfectly. I noticed that some nailers require more air per nail than others (based on watching the draw on the pressure gauge), so you might have to wait a second or two between nails. I also tried the Kobalt with my lS-gauge finish nailer, and it powered that driver with no problem. I drove a combined 268 brads and finish nails of assorted lengths on a 9-oz. tank. When you've expended your tank's supply, return it to lowe's for an exchange. Replacements cost S16 for the standard 9-oz. tank, and S27 for the optionallO-oz. tank (S36 new) .•

To learn more: 800-445-6937; lowes.com

- Ttl /rei by Bob Hunltr, TOO/l ond TtclmiqlNl Editor Weight: 3.1Ibs. (Including 9'02. tank. ududing l"Iolil@r)

WE'VE TURBOCHARGED OUR 18 VOLT TOOLS. (including those you already own)

Qldck and Easy Jig

Drum­sanding guide Sand perfect round-end cutouts on your drill press or spindle sander.

W hen forming cutouts like the ones in the base sides and ends (C, D) of the Ikebana

vase project on page 68, the cutout edges must be sanded. even after ca reful bimdsawing. You' ll want to keep the straight middle straight, the round ends round, and the transition between the two smooth. To get consistent results. here's a simple guide you can make in a hurry. The one shown fits the 1/.- sanding drum used on the Ikebana vase project, but you. can make one to fit any sill' sanding drum, and use it on your drill press or spindle sander.

Cut a l/t"-thick scrapwood fence and a 1/." tempered·hardboard base to size. Make the fence I" wider than the diameter of the sanding drum and the base I" wider than the workpiece width plus the fence width. Make both parts twice the length of the longest part you need to sand. Then mark a hole center on the base [Step 1], and bore a hole Ih" larger In diameter than the diameter of the sanding drum. Now position the fence on the base (Step l ), and trace the portion of the hole that the fence overlaps onto the hottom o( the (ence. Bandsaw along the traced line. Adhere the (ence to the base with double-faced tape.

STEP 1 LAY OUT THE SANDING DRUM HOLE ON THE BASE

22" (Twice the leng1h of longest worIq)iece) I

"",,",. ':'~~~' :~,.~:",,~.~. {~ plus W J

1% " (Distance from the top edge 01 workpiece to the center 01 the cutout end radios plus '1.1")

STEP 2 MARK THE FENCE

Position of the ..,." sanding drum centered In the base hole

STEP 3 posmON THE FENCE

v." sanding drum Fence

~..,.'.. \ """"' : spaoe, FENCE.\ '- J to .: .-:: ... Auler ~Eq ....

Bandsawn workDlece ' . , with patlem affIxed ~.' (Finished deplh of cutout)

Place the fence on the drill-press table, lower the sanding dru m Into the hole, and lock the quilt. On a spind le sander, simply place the fence over the sanding drum. Position the fence (Step 3], and clamp It in place. Now, after band5awlng the cutout close to t he pattern line, sand It to final shape by

moving the part hack and forth over the drum until both "fect" contact the fence, the cutout end~ are perfectly

fOund, 41nd the sanding drum quits removing material from the center . • IIlultrltlonl: ROll.nne L<!Moln<!; Lo' .... Johnson

26

For cunent prometlons. comple .. product into and a list 01 dealers near vau:

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Showcase your

craftsmanship with

this easy-to-build

masterpiece. It goes

together using

straightforward

rabbet, dado, and

groove joinery.

Super-simple faux

tenons give the look

of through-tenons

for the bottom rails.

-

• Overall dimensions: 57' wide x 13" deep x 55' high.

• Materials needed: Quartersawn white oak and W quartersawn white OJk plYWOOd.

• for a convenient way to get all of th(' hardw<'lre needed for the doors plus bras5 paddle ~upports for the ~helves, see Source.

Skill Builder • Learn how to easily make faux tenons

that fit inside shallow mortises, making the tenom virtually indistinguishable from "the real deal.~

Start with the case

1 From edge-joined white oak (we used quartersawn), cut the sides (A), diVid­

ers (B), fixed center shelf (C), adjustable Ct;nter shelvt;s (D), adjustable side shelves (E), bottom (F), and top (Gl to the sizes listed [Materials list, page 34]. Mark the time of glue-upon the boards, as explained in the Snap Tip, below. Then cut the cleats (H) and bottom rails (I) to size.

2 USing a dado blade in your tablesaw, Cllt the ¥4" dadoes ~" deep into the

appropriate faces of the s1des (A), divid­ers (B), bottom (F), and cleats (H), where dimensioned [Dri!lwl ngs 1 and 2 , Photo AJ. To safely guide the long parts, attach an extension to your miter gauge. Next, USing an auxiliary fence attached to your rip fence, cut the *" rabbet %" deep along the top ('.nd of each side on the inside face. Now cut the 14" rabbet W' deep along the back edge of each side to receive the plywood back (L).

3USing a compass, draw the 4" radius at the bottom of each side (A), where

dimensioned (Drawing 11. JlgS<lW or handsaw (with a support stand) to shape, and sand smooth. Next, mark the center of the arch on a bottom rail (1), where dimensioned. Draw the arch using a fairing stick. (For a free fairing stick plan, go to woodm agazine.com /fairing.)

A simple way to track glue-up times When you have a limited number of damps and severa l glue-ups to do, you don't want to leave the parts in the clamps longer than needed. On the other hand, you don't want to remove the parts before the glue has firmly set, risking misaligned or poorly joined workpieces. (Yellow g lue sets in approximately 30 minute1 at a tem­perature above 50" F.) Here's a simple method to keep things straight. Mark the starting time of each glue -up with chalk. That way, you'll know whell you can safely remove the boards from the

See a Slide Show of this project coming together at woodmagazine.com/slldes

Bandsaw and drum-sand the arch to shape. USing this rail as a tt;mplate, draw the arch on the other rail. Bandsaw and sand it to shape.

4 Rout 1/5" round-ovcrs along the bot­tom ends of the sides (A) [Drawing 21.

Complete the round-overs on the bottom edges using a ISO-grit sanding block.

SMark centerpoints for holes to receive the 14" brass paddle supports

for shelves on the appropriate faces of the SiMs (A) and dividers (R) [Drawings 1 and 2]. Note that the holes in the sidt;s

u",y;;;;;t.i;,;;;;;r.~;-;~; stopblock to ensure identical dado locations in the sides [A), dividers (B), bottom (Fl, and cleats (H).

clamps, and you can tell which boards were glued up the longest so you can work on them first.

29

dividers (B) face up. Then glue and damp the dividers lind fixed center shelf IC) together.

¥. rabbet ~- deep

I 12' , I

r VO rabbet ¥I'deep

01'0' -" \I .. holes

! ¥I-deep

~-. W W- • ,

· ~2' 1- 2L I-

L · , 541/.

· , , ,

j' @

• , ,

, , F. ~,-

:y." dado ,,'--'\ r • •

• • 7'

Lc...r • _.,1"\

r "

-W W

r

r F ron,

®

r-- 11¥." '!T

2'r-- t¥'\ ~ f-.

~_/ Vo' holes

V." holes ~'deep on outside fac&

,~

~, dad~ ,,'-Vo' holes

~ •

®

LEFT DI VIDER (inside face shown,

2214 '

-L

46'h

-

right divider is a mirror image)

D PARTSVIEW

i II the back edge of the bollom (F). Check t he offset along the length using a combination square.

Location of part® on inside lace

:v. x 5'h' mortises ".,' de:!£' for parts<dJ

SIDE

Countersunk shank hole

'"

location 01 part(!)on inSide face

(outside face 01 left side shown)

and the center group of holes in the out­side faces of the dividers are 3,..· deep. The top and bottom groups of holes in the dividers are through· holes. Drill the holes USing a brad-point bit and II backer to prevent tear-out of the through-holes. Use a fence with a stopblock on your drill press to ensure alignment and consistent spacing of the holes, and wrap a piece of masking tape around the bIt for a visual depth stop when drilling the l,4' _deep holes. To ensure correct orientat ion of the dividers during assembly, identify the front edges.

6 0n the bottom face of the bottom (F) and top faces of the cleats (H ), mark

centerpoints for mounting holes cen· tered over the dadoes for attaching the parts to the dividers (S) rDrawing 21 . Then ma rk centerpoints for mounting holes on the bottom face of the {rollt cleat and for ¥l6" slots %5" long on the top face of the back cleat {Drawing 2a j for attach-

,-2' __ '14 J '--"

LEFT SIDE (InSide lace shown.

right side is a mirror image)

r-1"--- ---4'W--,-------------i1 2' 1

6'

J 30

iog the top (G) later. To ensure correct orientation of the back cleat during assembly, identify the bal:k edge. Drlll the collntersunk shank holes, and form the slots. For the #S screws in this proj­ect, urill ¥.n" shank holes and 7,IoW" pilot holes. You'll drill the angled counter· sunk shank holes at the ends of the cleats and into the sides (Al when mounting the cleats to the case.

7LaY out the ¥..x5h" mortises at the bottom of the sides (A) on the outside

faces [Drawing 11 to receive the faux teo­ons U) IDrawing :oll. Rout the l4"-dccp mortises, and square the corner s with a chisel. To easily and precisely r mortises using a template and a

out the pattern

bit, sec pase 84. Then dr1l1 the counter-sunk shank holes through the m ortises for attaching the bottom rails (I ),

grit. Set 8 sand all of the parts to 220 the adjustable center and side

(D, E) and top (G) aside. shelves

3~

Assemble the case

1 Glue and clamp together the divid­(;rli (B) .mu fix~ center shelf (CJ

[Drawing 2, Photo BJ. Use right-angle clamping braces to kE'E'p the assembly square. (For a free clamping brace plan, go to woodmagazine.com/bracc.)

2 GlUe the bottom (F) to the dividers! shelf assembly (B/C). USing the

shank holes in the bottom as guides, drill pilot holes into the dividers. Drive the screws. In the same way, glue and screw the cleats (H) to the dividers, aligning the cleats flush with the front and back edges of the dividers and ensuring the cleat with the slots is cor· rectly oriented at the back. 3 Glue and clamp the left side (A) to

the bottom (F) and cleats (H), flush

"' tho front. Then drill countersunk mounting holes, angled at 5\ through

;: 57"

the cleats and into the side [Drawing 2,

Photo C). Drive the screws. Now mount the right side to the assembly.

4 Glue and clamp the back bottom rail (1) to the bottom (F), W from its

back edge lPhoto DJ. Note that this poSi­tions the rail W from the back edges of the sides (A). Using the shank holes in the side mortiSes as guides, drill pilot holes into the raiL Drive the screws. Now mount the front rail ~. from thE' front edges of the sides [Drawing 2J.

ED BACK CLEAT SLOT DETAIL

:m"~ ~ \t ,," ®

¥'I'sIJ

3"

@ J ",,~'Iong

.-:eft S' - j

SCfeWSC0-11

#8x1V. ' F.H.wood

Coun1ersunk shank hole angled at 5°

zJgL.- " 5 =---:~ ~

o EXPLODED VIEW

®

M

p

,

!

\ 18"

@

woodmilgilzln •. c:om

'i

....->~~' ~ #6 x 1 v." F.H. " wood screw ' --­

II II ¥~. dadoes 'hi' deep:

", " 'i 491/4' =: j

Countersunk shank holes f--'H; : __ 20/, ' I ·· -~ , , ... - , , -ml ,

"

~ ... . ,.

"" 11/. spring , ,

" ' II catches /":i " ,

Si' "~, @ '/4' brass

0 paddle suppon \ ® "

11¥.' ®I .' ......... - -.... ...- I?- ~ .;.Y '~ '@r. '~ © . -1 2%··_...,....._

I ;Jv ..... , ..•. ll1f~'

~ ij) -

p

--:'\ l 1t1+ X ¥4" wire nail

(9

47'/.

~~~~~c~ 'i 20%" / ~ /

~0J I

... ,;z,,;" ~

~9V>'

Z' - 11 ¥."

~~ -- . :::.t I ~ 13%0-, I I

"-·'''''I." FH ~~" -<-" "--

wood screw ". .... ___ '. """./ ~.~ :.~~ " ¥. dado W deep

.... 'te' round-overs

- .. ... .

J

\ 'I.' round·over #8 x 1 'h' F.H. wood screw

¥""

/1'(4

sf~ 'I." chamfers

31

EJDOOR (Right d oor viewed from back)

r T

8¥.'

ts

R

29"'"

v.' grool/9 '1-'." deep, centered

s

R

21(.' panial-wrap inset hinge

@

©

li "; Groove tiller, centered

in door opening between parts@and®

©

DlRAIL AND STILE DETAILS 10*' ___ (Viewed from back)

_ ~' rabbets Yo' deep~ %' rabbet 'h' deep

~::::::j!1JI, %'~bbets v.' deep

V:r' deep

2" Add the trimmings

1 To fOlffi the faux tenons 0) to fit into the mortises in the sides (A),

cut a 5~1 2· ple<..1: from *" stock. (We test-fittt.'tI the stock to emure a snug fit in the Jf.x5W mortises.) Rout ~. chamfer~ on each end [Drawing 2J. Sand the ends smooth. Then crosscut a %"-Iong tenon

'Yo" .. ~._. _ ring pull

from each end. Repeat to make two morc ten­ons. For help with this pro({'ss, seepage84. Now gl ue the tenons into the 101I..1!! mortises,

2 Cut the trim (K) to the size listed. Rout

a ~. round-over ao oss both ends of each trim piece (Drawing 2J, back· Ing up the pieces with scrap to prevent tear· out. Sand smooth. Then , glue and damp the trim 10 the front edges of the bottom (F) and front cleat (H), centering the

trim side-to-side on the case.

3 Position the top (G) on Y0ul work­bench with the bottom face up.

Then, using a helper, place the case, with the deats (HJ down, on the top, flush al the back and centered side-to­side. Using the mounting holes in the front d eal and slots in the back cleat a.~ gUides, drill pilot holes into the top. Orive the wood screws and panhead screws wjth flal washers lOt-awing 21 .

4 Cut the back (L) to size to fit the opening. Sand smooth. SE't it aside.

Time for the doors

1 From the straightest and flattest stock you can find, cut the stiles

(M), top rails (N), hottom ralls (0), and center rails (P) to the sizes listed.

2 us,ng a dado blade in your tahlesaw, cui the rabbet and groove along the

edges of the stiles (M), and the rabbets along the edges and across the ends of the top rails (N), bottom rails (0), and center rails (P) (Drawings 3, l a, and lb] following the five-step cutting \equcncc (Drawing 41. Verify that the parts fit togeth~r (Orrectly.

~t:~:::5§~"[' ,~abbots p

2' ElltDOOR JOINERY DETAil (Viewed from top)

% ' rabbet 1h' deep

32

Outside lace

WOOD milQilzine November 2007

3TD assemble the doors, cut two 1><8" spacers from \4' hardboard for posi­

tioning the center rails (1') . Then, glue, assemble, and clamp the stiles and rails for a door together wIth the spacers [Photo El. Repeat for the other door.

4 cut the groove fillers (Q) to size. Glue and damp t he fillers into the

grooves in the stiles (M), centering the flllers in the top and bottom door open­ings [Drawing 3] . The fillers keep the glass centered side-ta-side in the doors.

Scut the bottom vertical glass stops (R), top vertical glass stops (S), and

horizontal glass stops (n to the sizes listed to fit the rabbeted optnings in the

Use a spacer to position door hinges on the sides ( bottom (F) and front cleat

doors. To prevent splitting of the stops during installation, drill pilot holes through the stops using a #17x]" hrad with its head snipped off.

6 Have pieces of W glass cut to fit the door openings less W in width and

length. For an aged look, we used a "seedy"-style glass, which we found at our local glass store. This type of glass has air-bubble inclusions and some tex­turing. 1£ you choose to use this type of glass, make sure that you specify t he widt h" and lengths (not just the dimen­Si0115) for the glass so that the texturing runs in the same direction. You'll install the glass and stops after finishing.

ElCUTIING THE TENONS AND GROOVES INTO THE DOOR STILES AND RAILS

1 Cut a :h" rabbet th" deep along the iMide edge of part @.

Auxiliary

dado blade

Step 2 Cut a centered V4' ~roove ;y," deep alon.s.,lhe Inside edge of part (MJ .

Inside face @

'I. I

:y.' ,

1/." dado blade

With a door centered in its opening using 1;,." !ihimi, and flu sh at the front, m;uk the hinge mounting holes on the stiles (M).

7TO mount the doors, cut a 20/16>:3' spacer from 14" hardboard. Using

the spacer to pOSition the 2W partial­wrap inset hinges at the top and bottom of each side (A) IDrawing 2, Photo FJ and keeping the hinge barrels tight against the front edges of the sldes, mark the mounting holes centered in the hinge openings. Drill pilot holes, and fasten the hinges to the sides using the sup­plied ~rews_ Then mount the remaining hinges centered along the door opening on each side.

8:ente~ each, do(~r in it_~ open I ng by IIlsertmg v,,6' shims at the top, bot­

tom, and side of the door opposite the

Cut a ¥." rabbet ',;" deep across the ends of parts ®.@,and®_

4 Cut an opposing Step 5 CUi a ¥e ' rabbet ,t';>' deep

woodmagal.lne.com

¥ii ' rabbet V.' deep ~oss the e~s 01 parts ®.@,and(£).

"" no'" blade

along the appropriate edges 01 parts @.@.,,,,,®.

@@.®

:::r '."

Inside face 'Vi' dado blade

II

Keep ureW5 on the tip of a screwdriver with this trick How many ti mes have you tried to guide a :;crew on the end of your screwdriver into a mounting hole and had the screw fall off (and, as Murphy's Law would have it, roll out of sight)? Here's a simple way to avoid the frus trat ion (and hu nt). Transform your ordinary screwdriver into an "attractive" one by attaching a rare-earth mag net to it near the tip. A magnet as small as '14" in diameter provides plenty of pull to hold a screw securely to the tip, making positioning and driving the screw in any orientation or tight space a snap.

hinges. (The hinges offset the door "116", so you don't need .~hims on this .. ide.) Ensure that the doors are flush at the front. Then, reach through the back of the case and mark the hinge mounting holes on the door stiles (M) [Photo GJ . Remove the doors. Drill the pilot holes.

9Mark a centerpoint on each inner door stile (M) for the h6" hole to

receive the threaded boss on a 11A1" ring pull [Drawing 3J. (The pull mounts with a screw at t he top and an escutcheon pin at the bottom.) Drill the holes, using a backer to prevent tear-out. You'll mount the pulls and keyhole escutch­eons after finishing.

1 OMount the clips for the 1~" spring catches '"41" from the top

and bottom of each inner door stile (M) and centered, using the supplied screws. Reposition the doors in their openings, and drive the hinge screws. Then engage the spring catches on the clips. Now drill pilot holes, and screw·mount the catches to the bottom (F) and front cleat (H) [Drawing 2J . Because the space between the catches and dividers (B) Is tight, see the Shop Tip, above, for an easy way to drive the screws.

Finish up

1 1{emove the doors, hinges, spring catches and clips, and the top (G) .

Finish-sand to 220 grit any areas that need it, and remoV(' the dust.

2 APply a stain and clear finish. We applied Varathane no. 266 Early

American Stain, followed by three coats of Aqualar Water-Based Clear Satin Pro­tective FinIsh, sanding to 320 grit between coats.

31nstall the glass and glass stops (R, 5, and T) in the back of the doors with

#17xW brads. Place a piece of cardboard on the glass to protect it when driving the brads.

34

A Remount the top (G) and doors. ...-rhen mount the 11,-1" ring pulls and keyhole escutcheons on the inner door stiles (M) rDrawings 2 and 3 1 using the supplied fasteners. To create faux key­hole openings on the stiles, trace the shape of the escutcheon keyhole slot onto each stile with a fine-tip, permanent black marker, and fill in the outline.

5 Finally, pmition the haLk (I.) in its opening, and drive the #17x lN

wire nails [Drawing 21. Move the book­case to the deSired location. Then install the adjustable center and side shelves (0, E) using 1/4" brass paddle supports. Now ~tep back and admire your workmanship, and keep the faux­tenon secret to yourself . ..

Written by O_n Du .... 11 with Chuck Hoedlund Project d oesign: Keyln Boyle Ilh.lllral ionl: Rounn .. l .. Molnoe; L(I~nll Johnson

Cutting Diagram A o E

:v. x 7'1.)( 96' Quartersawn white oak 15.3 bd. 11.) , 4 needed)

' K R B B

:Y. x 7'1. )( 96' Quartersawn white oak (5.3 bd. ft.) (2 needed) 'Plane or resaw to the thicknesses

listed if) lhe Materials list.

KG) ((c) !(Fj-'" )j ;y. x 7'1. x 96" Quartersawn while oak (5.3 bd. fl. )

:Y. x 7'1.)( 96'· Quartersawn white oak (5.3 bd. fl.)

E E G Y. x 7'/. x 00" Quartersawn white oak (5.3 bd. ft.)

veliE}:!'G} , .a Y. x 7'1. x 96" Quartersawn white oak (5 .3 bd. fl.)

HHX'® %J2M il~ Y. x 7'/. It 96" Quartersawn white oak (5.3 Ixt. fl.)

Materials List ~'''''~fHO sin

Cilise T W L Mati Qly

A """ 'I," ,,' 54'.1. EQO , • dividers 0/4' lP/." 46%" '00 , C fi~ed center shelf l/.' 11'1." 21';.0' EQO , 0 adju5tablecenter ',; " 11'/ "

wives • 1 20"1," EQO , , adjust~side ]14" 10'14" 12'/," EQO ,

""'~ F bottom ;0-.' l W." 49'1.' EQO , G "" 'I." B" 57' EQO , H dealS 'I. 3' 49'1." 00 ,

bottom rails ... 6' 48h' QO

J" faux tenons 'I." S'l," W QO • , trim W '/4'. 49%" QO , L bock If." 47V." 49'1." 00' , Doon (2 needed)

M sr~ )/." " 45'/," 00 , N top rails 1/4 " 10'/," QO , 0 bottom rails '/4 4' '0';.' QO , P (enteffai15 'I." " 10'1a" QO , Q groove f1Mers 'I." 'I. " 00 • R bottom Yertkal II," 1/," 29·'11" QO ,

glass stops

5 topVE;rl\calgl.m II," II," 8]/." QO , ,-

T horizontal glass 'I,' 'I," 81/," QO • stOp5

-Par! ini!lallycu! "" .. nile. See!~ instructions.

Materials ""y: EQO-edge-joinl'd ql.lilrtersawn white oak, QO-quartersawn white 0<111, OOP- qu.artl'fSil"n·o whfteuak plywood. Supplies: .8x,Vl ard H~I'Il" IlathlSld wood screws, ;\'8~1'1<' panh~ scre">'lS. _9 flat w~~hen. f 17x1/l aod 11,7"," brads, II'7x'l.' wire Mill, 'l.x9'hxSY.' glass (2) ard VI)(9'/j)(29W glass (2), 2'1. partial-wrap inset hinges 16), 1v.' ~iflQGI\(he~ withdi~(4), W brasl paddle wpporn(32) Blade ",nd bh.$: Oado·bladooset; W and V~· round­over. 45' chamfer. arK! Ij," ~ttem roWI bits; v.' brad·point bit.

Source Hardware: 2\'/ p,ortial-wrap inset hinges with oil· rubbed brol"lZt' finish, 00. 01 H31.92, $3.40 ea<h (6): l'i!" spring c~tches withclips, no.OOW11 .02. S.85 ea<h (4); I'll" ril19 pun with dark bronzelinish,no. 01,1..28 .44, $2.10 .. ach (2): keyhole ~u\(h~ with dark brown finish, 00. 01,1..28.45, $1 .10eilm (2); lJ." blassp<Kldle~ppom. 00. 63Z06.D4. $5.25 ~. of 20 (2 pkgsJ CaU or dd l~ Valley, 800-871-8158; leevalley.com.

l{ibid ...... .... ~® , ! ~

¥. )( 7Y4 X 96' QUflrtersawn white oak (5.3 bd. 11.) (2 needed)

'I. x 46 )( 96' Quartersawn while oak plyvlood

WOOD maqaIlne NMl'mllor.r 1007

Quality is what our brand is based on. And it's what your projects demand and deserve.

W oodworker Dave Knau needed a ceiling for his new base­ment Tee room, but he wanted

more than office-style acou stic panels and skinny metal grids. His solution: an aU-wood ceiling that looks permanent, but disassemhles for easy acc~s_~ to over­head wiring and plumbing.

Dave's simple system consists of only three groups of parts: wall-mounted st rips for the perimeter of the room, grid pieces, and panels cut from IA" plywood (Drawing 1J . Installation requires hard­wa re ava ilahle at most home centers.

Plan your ceiling grid Unlike manufactured suspended ceil· Ings limited to 2 .. 2' or Z><4' panels and 1"·wide grids, you can custom ize the size, shape. and detail s of wooden ccll­ing panels to suit your space. When Dave planned the grid for the ba!>t'ffient of his Windsor Heights, Iowa, home, he settled on center panels 30' sq\lare and 15><30' sIde panels to emphasize the long, narrow shape of the room that holds his Shop-built 18-foot shuffl!!­board table (see page 40). When he helped build a friend's basement ceiling, though, he used Z'-square panels that efficiently med 4><8' plywood sheets.

To begin planning a ceiling, draw your room to scale on graph paper. (We'll usc an 8x 12' space for this exam­ple.) Measure the room from sevt!ral locations and note bumps or dips In the walls. Mark the locations of overhead joists that might interfere with ret:e~d lights. If you'\--e ever laid a tile noor. you'll find the follOWing planning point­ers a snap. Th is is even easier because you can customize the panel sizes.

Draw two centerlines the lengt h and width uf the room, as shown In red [Drawing 2] . Then divide the space into ~quares reprl'SCntlng the panels (as ~hnwn in blue) starting with whole

WOOD m;agou.lne NOVf'mher 2007

squares along the centerllnes. A 2'-square panel provide5 a good starting point for your plans, but you can increase or decrease the grid size and shape to fill the ceiling with equal-size panels.

If you end up with slivers of a grid space along two or four walls, redraw your grid layuut to place rOWS of panels centered on the center lines and work toward the edges. You'll ~ti1l have partial panels along the "'ails, but they'll be at least half the width and length of the full-size panels.

As you map the room, draw in where you'll insert overhead !ighh and heating vents on individual panels IDrawing 31. If ncccs~ry, vary the grid sizes to work around obstacles or accommodate recessed lights, as Dave did. Include any low-hanging obstructions, such as ducts or pipes. This ceiling will hang about 4" beneath the joists, so you may need to frame around obstructions, as shown above, and enclose them with drywall to avoid dropping the entIre ceiling uncomfortably low.

For minimal butt joints, plan the wall­to-wall, or main, grid pieces to span the shortest dimension of the room. Then letter and number the grid lines on your drawing. In this example, the numbered lines represent the main grid pieces, and the letters indicate the }X>sitions of short cross piece~ that hang between the main grid pieces to separate the panels. When you're satisfied with the layout, mark the walls where pieces will go with the mounting lot:atlon, the letter or number of the part, and the wall-to-wall mea· surement indicating its length.

Before you begin making and hang· ing ceIling parts, wire the room for lighb you'll install. Then modify or add to your ductwork to heat and cool the space. Connect vents mounted on ceil­ing panel~ to nearhy metal ducts with flexible hose.

woodmagallne.(om

D EXPLODED VIEW OF SUSPENDED CEILING

¥~ )( 2" plywood stifteners

~ V4" ptywood panel Eye lag screw ~Recessed

light li)(lure ~" rv

Main grid 1,4 )( " plywood piece

grid reinlorclnlj strip "longer then grid piece

Wall

EJ CElllNG GRID LAYOUT

Room boundaries ~~~~ Overhead joists Center! ines/gri dl ines

Grid locations

1¥. l( :Y"

Wall

II MARK LIGHTS AND OBSTACLES

2r-~r;r-+--+1-t-~

A B c Number the locations of the main grid pieces and letter the location s of cross pieces. Then plan the locations for any recessed lights (in yellow) and obstacles, such as ducts.

37

IJGRID ASSEMBLY DETAil

1f.,' overhang on each end 'h '

Finishing nails

l' 'h'

Main grid piece

¥. x l " plywood grid reinforcing strip glu9{! and nailed 10 grid

Wall

Wall-rTloonled strip ~

v.' V~· bead

Cross piece .. " ~/~:::5'

Overhangs on the reinforcing strips support the main grid pieces on the wall-mounted strips. Similar overhangs also support the cross pieces on the main grid. Panel, rest ~ween the

ROUT THE FIRST PAIR OF BEADS

reinforcing strips on the grid pieces and on the wall-mounted strips. V

DREINFORCIN.G srwe.M!llllin.fiG l1G. _-~2~. -------~ Bollom board ________ ---- ----:.-:--~~----~

centered to create ~________ _ _~~ ____ ----.::~ :' 'h' rabbets _____ --~----, ~ _-..------- _r:. ,: ~ ---- -- - ----... --- . - - ~~ - ,"'"

'"-'i - -- __ --------- I < - -~ --/ '// Y) I 'tJ01 aLL 10 LLlailb an -:.. /" 2'h' l'h' \12' additional spacer.

Vary the length of this jig to suit the grid strips you'll re inforce. For grid strips longer than the jig, build the jig long enough to cut a " ple<e from the end that can be damped onto your glue-u p at the opposite end.

Rout the grid pieces Main Wid pieces must hold a $lraight line over long distances, so use straight­grainedW stock. Rip 2'-wide strips to make both the main grid pieces and cruss pieet's. Then rip H::'"-wide blanks to make the wall-mounted strips.

You can leave the grid pieces undeco­rated or vary from the profile Dave used. A beaded edge looks attractive wh~re the cross pieces intersect with the main grid pleces, and it doesn't sacrifice pand sup­port strength.

To cut this profile, insert a lAo edge­beading bit in a table-mounted router; then adjust the height until you create a half-round shape on the edge of a test scrap. After you fine-tune the bit height, place a grid strip on the router table with the he .. t face down, and rOILt a half-bt'ad along both edges [Photo AJ. Then rout the workpieces vertically to complete both beads [Photo 8). For the wall­mounted strips, follow the same routine, hut only on one ~t1ge.

38

Smooth the beads with a profile sand­ing block (see Sources) up to 180 grit [Photo C] . Then sand up to 180 grit on the flat portions of the grids and wall­mounted strips.

Now you're ready to cut the grid pieces to lenglh. Cut main grid pieces to a wall­to-wall measurement minus twice the thickness of the wall-mounted strips (lYl" as shown here). If the main grid pieces require butt-joining two or more pieces, space the jOints to avoid inter­secting a cross piece. Label all the parts with their installation location.

Call In the reinforcements Ewn with support wires, grid pieces need reinforcement to prevent twisting or sagging. Dave at tached plywood strips on the top surfaces of all grid pieces. These strips also separate, poSition, and support the panels.

from -W H-C plywood, rip 1 '-wide grid reinforcement ~trip5. The l' width cre­ates no wood movement problems on

2" -wide hardwood, but avoid using strips Wider than I" on hardw(xxi grid pieces wider than Z".

Don't worry if even 8' reinforcement strips don't span you r main grid pieces. Just butt strips together, making sure any reinforcement-strip butt joint falls at least l' from a hutt joint in the main grid piece.

Cut eaeh plywood reinforcement strip, or combination of strips, I" longer than the hardwood grid piece below it to leave ih" overhangs on both ends.

To save t ime gluing plywood strips to grid pieces, make a reinforcing strip mounting jig [Drawing 5] that centers

the plywood strip on the hardwood grid piece, and leaves the Vi" overhang. Glue and nail the strips to the grid pieces [Photo oj . A pneumatic nailer with 1104" brads simplifies the jab.

Now make the panels For a light surface that rdlects light and contrasts with the oak grid, Dave made his ceiling panels from lA" hirch ply­wood. As another time-saver, he sprayed a clear film finish on all of one side of a plywood sheet before he cut the ceiling panels to length and width.

To calculate the panel length, add t" (for the two overhangs) to the distances between edges of the main grid pieces. Cross-cut the plywood sheets to these lengths; then cut the center panels to width according to your grid layout, again adding 1" for the overhangs. From the remaining blanks that you cut to length, cut edge panels for one side of the room to width plus 1". Cut pieces for the other edge of the room about W wider than necessary to fine-tunc the fit during final assembly. This way, the cross grid pieces will forill a straight line down the length of the room, as they did In Dave's rec room.

From Dave's experience, 104" plywood panels can sag with time. To keep them flat, attach four 2"-wide stiffeners of 34" plywood on edge atop each panel about 2" from the edges (Photo El. You can saw time by reinforcing two or more panels at once. First, glue and apply the four reinforcing strips to a panel resting on a flat surface. Next, place the second panel directly over the glue-up. Glue another four reinforcing strips. and position them on the panel. Repeat this up to four times; then cover the stack with a scrap of '0/4" plywood the size ofyoUT cei l­ing panels. \Veight the top sheet IPhoto Fl and allow the glue to dry.

Hang the ceiling grid To insta ll the wall-mounted strips, mea­sure down at least 4" from the lower edges of the overhead joists, and mark a level line the length of the wall. You can use a chalk string and level for this, but it's faster to use a self-leveling laser level (Photo GJ suspended from the ceiling. (Sec Sour((~s.) Use your first line as the starting puint for marking the remain­ing level lines around the room. Cut the wall-mounted strips to fit, and then nail them in place with the top edges at the level line (Photo HJ.

Where each main grid piece will hang, stretch a string from one side of the

... oodmllgazlne.com

room to the other. Roughly every 4', insert an eye lag screw (see Sources) into the subfloor or joist directly ahove the string. A. driver bit made to hold these screws [Photo J] simplifies the job. To work around pipeS, ducts, and other obstructions, reduce the space between lag screws as needed. But avoid spacing them further apart.

Next, drill 7,164" pilot holes Into the main grid reinforcing strips to corre­spond with the positions of the eye lag screws. Insert each l%" eyebolt to the same depth.

To support the main grid pieccs, cUl lengths of 12-gauge wire about 6" longer

than the estimated distance between the eyes of the lag screv.·s and the main grid eyebolts. Thread a wire through each eye lag screw and Iwisl the end to hold it in place.

To determine where to bend the wires for even support of the main grid pieces, measure from the top surface of the hardwood portion of the grid to the top imide portion of an eyebolt In the rein­forcing strip. At that distance above the top of the wall-mounted strips, stretch a taut string or position a laser level to intersect the wires hanging hom the eye lag screws. Bend each wire 900 where it touches the string or laser line.

39

Starting at one end of the room, sup­port the first main grid piece on the wall-mounted strips using the over­hang on the reinforcing strip~ (Photo J and Drawing 4]. Then thread a support wire through each eyebolt and tWist the end to hold it in place (Photo KJ.

Hang the first panel between the wall strip and main grid piece, and .~lide it to one corner. Add a grid cross piece [Photo Ll, followed by another panel, and repeat until you reach the end of the row. If you fine-tune the last panel in a row, note which side of the room required the fttted panel. By fitting

40

Shop-Built Shuffleboard Tables Dave Knau's suspended ceiling is the perfect complement to his other WOodworking specialty: building shuffleboard tables. His rec room holds one mea5uring nearly 21' long, 32' wide, and 34' tall.

Dave's interest in making an indoor shuffleboard table started when a friend planning to buy one discovered that the commercial versions either co~t thousands of dollars or were poorly made from plastic-covered partideboard. Since that tirst table, Dave has made four others.

Each table has three main assemblies: the playing surface, or game board, on which the 8·ounce weights glide; the table that supports the game board; and the legs holding up the table. Dave used two layers of V." plywood topped with a Vi'-thick glue-up of maple pieces to make the lB'-long, 20"·wide game board for his table shown be/ow. Scoring and foul lines on the table are inlaid walnut for contrast. To keep the game board dead.flat, he ran the assembly through a drum sander.

Nit's not l13rd to do," Dave says. "What'~ intimidating is the size: You

only the panels on that side, your grid cross pieces form a straight line as they're installed, as shown on page 36.

Then hang your second main grid piece, followed by panels and cross­pieces. Repeat the process until you reach the oppostte end of the room, attaching any recessed light fixllucs or air ducts in the panels as you work .•

have to have a place to assemble it."

Dave made the sides of the table from Cherry-veneer plywood with maple trim attached using chrome screws and trim rings. The rounded Dave Kn'II.!

corners, sh()wn in the inset below, were formed tram six layers of 1ft' bendable plywood preHed together around a 4"-diarneter PVC pipe in a shop-built jig. He then covered the glue-ups with cherry veneer to match the plywood sides. In addition to slipporting the game board, the table surrounds it with a 6' trough to catch any stray weights during play and the surplus powdered wax that lubricates the playing surface.

Five pairs of walnut legs each have levelers recessed into them to stabilize the table. His next shuffleboard table-still in the planning stage-will rest on a base of storage cabineu.

Sources Profll~ sanding blocks. Setoffive COl"\CaYesarodinq grips no. 68Zf!2.1)2, $4.95, olll~ Valley Tools at 800-871-8158; "'£'VaHey.com. L.ser level. Projeded CrouFil(' Auto LewlLaser no. BOl3' OS, $80, call 8M & De<ker at 800-544-6986; bladandOecker.com. Eye lag 5I;:r_5. BuyJ( /I(lmt'cemersOf no. KlR2MN from Hardware World, $6.93 for , 00: hardwareylOr"ld.{om. Eye lag ICrtW driver bit. Avail~bko~t homeamte .... or no. GJXKHS from Hardwarl' World, $438.

WOOD magazine Novemb<.>r 2007

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• Learn the art of finishing from WOOD Magazine Contributing Craftsman Jim Heavey

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Home/Shop Storage Cart Roll into place an extra worksurface and plenty of handy storage below with this easy-to-build mobile cabinet. Home office, kitchen, and workshop are just a few places you' ll appredate this hard-working helper.

PRO ECT HIGHLIGHTS • Overall dimensions: 31" wide x 17W

deep x approximately 31 ' high. • Bis(uit-and-5crew joinery make the cart

super-simple to assemble. • Except for the top, which has solid­

wood edging. all other e)(posed plywood edges are banded with easy-to-apply iron-on veneer edging. For help with this process, go to woodmagazine.com/video~.

• You'll find all of the items needed to build the cart (hardware, Wand 1;'4' plywood, and W poplar and oak) at your local home center.

Skill Builder • Learn a handy trick for laying out

bi~cuit-slot locatiom and accurately plunging sloh into the face of a part.

See a Slide Show of this project coming together at: woodmagazine,com/slides

Start with the case

1 Cut the sides (A) and panels (8) to the sizes listl'd [Materials list, page

46J. Cut the divider (C) and shelf (0) to the sizes listed except W longer to enable trimming later for a precise fit in the assembled case.

2 From li· -wide iron-on veneer edging (available at your local home center),

cut strips I " longer than the lengths of the sides (A), pands (8), divider (C), and shelf (0) for the front edges. Using a household iron at the "cotton" setting, apply the veneer to the edge5 of the parts with an equal overhang on the faces and ends. Move the iron slowly enough to melt the adhesive but not burn the veneer. (You'll feel a slight "give" when the adhesive melts.) Before the adhesive sets, press the edging firmly Into place

How to make a shop version of the cart

42

Need a mobile storage unit tor your shop to keep tools and supplies organized and easy to move about? Design Editor Jeff Mertz built the one shown at left by making a few simple changes to the home cart: • Substitute less-expensive birch plywood (or other void-free plywood of your choice) for the oak plywood and poplar instead of oak for the edging on the top. • Omit the veneer edging on the exposed plywood edges.

• Size the door (which does not get veneer edging) by measuring the opening and subtracting }i" from the width ilnd height to al low Y\6" clearance al! around. • For the large- and small-drawer faces (l , M), eliminate the curved cul-outs and mount 4" wire pull~ instead (Six needed, including the door). • When finishing the cart, skip the stain and apply three coats of a clear finish only.

WOOD IT) .. ga~lne NOVl!mtx-r Z007

- -, ? 120 biteuit SlOta 5 ~, _ _ , __ ~L

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V.' rabbel 6. " L

,;W deep 1t20 1~Uil slot J -~ - ---.,'

D PARTSVIEW Front

W

l-" ~~ 16%" r-

11'h"

15~1'

t:: .20~UOl

1'h'

'j Drawer slide "I --• on opposite lace 0

.":;;:=~::::~:::::::::J -1+--.. '/~' holes q,j,' deep in o right (door-side) face only 0

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(Right lace shown) r------­-..--- - ~ .. ~ j -.

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divider (C), where dimensioned [Drawings 1 and 2]. Note that although the parts are not the same Width, the locations of the slots aTe IdentIcal from theiT (ront

Note; Left side@lsa mirror image.

using a 1"-long wood roller. (A wallpaper seam roller works great.) Now trim the edging flush with the faces and ends of the palts [PhotoAj. Set the shelf aside.

l Vsing a dado blade in your tablesaw or a rabbeting bit in your router,

machine a Vt" rabbd h' deep aiong the back edge of ('ach side (A) on the inside face IDrawing 11 to receive the plywood back (E) IDrawing2j,

4 Draw ccnterlilles for the #20 biscuit slots on the sides (A), panels (B), and

SHOP TIP

edges. FOT a quick and easy way to accurately mark the centerl ioes,

and plunge the face slots into the centers of the sides and center and bottom pan­els, see the Shop Tip, helow. Plunge the slots into ali of the parts except the divider. You'll plunge its slots after you cut the part to exact length.

SDry-assemble (no glue) and damp together the sides (A) and paMJs (B)

with #20 biscuits. Measure the diagonals of the case to ensure square. Then mea­sure between the bottom and center panels (B) for the exact length of the

A simple aid makes biscuit layout pure gravy When laying out biscuit·slot centerlines, you need to mark them preci.~ely to ensure correct alignment of the parts, Rather than measuring for each slot, you can save time-and avoid errors-by making a layout guide (or storyboard). And, if you'll need to plunge slots into the faces of the parh, kill two birds with one stone by sizing the guide for use as a spacer when plunging these slots.

For ellample, to make a layout guide/spacer for plunging the face slots into the sides (A) for the center panel (S), cut a 5¥.x15W piec(' from W scrap. The 5¥." width is the difference between the 6\oi" dimension from the top of the side to the biscuit·slot centerlines [Drawing 11 and the W offset from your biscuit-joiner base to the center of the cutter. The 15Y:! ' length is the width of the panel [Drawing 21. Identify one end of the guide '·front." Then draw center-

line$ for the three biscuit-slot locations, where dimensioned for the bottom panel, across a long edge.

To put the guide to use, align the front end with the front edge of each part (the parts are not all the same width), and transfer the biscuit-slot centerl ines at each end, as shown below. After marking the top end of each side, simply f lip the guide over to draw the centerlines on the

MakIng several light pllsses with II sharp utility knife, trim the veneer edging flush with the faces and ends of the parts.

divider (C). Crosscut the divider 10 your measurement. Now plunge the biscuit slots into each end of the divider. Dhas­semble the case.

face for mounting the center panel. To plunge the face slots in the side for the center panel, align and clamp the guide to the side, as shown below. You also can use the guide as a spacer when plunging the slo1$ in the faces of the center and bottom panels for the divider (C), but you'll need to position the guide W' from the centerlines and place the assembly on spacers for clamping.

6 Mark centerpoints for h" holes ¥e" deep for shelf sup~

ports on the inside face of the right side (Al and the right (door­side) face of the divider (C) [Draw­ing 11. Notc that the dimensions from the bottom edges of the side and divider to the bottom holes are different, and the holes along the back edge of the right side arc lW from the rabbet-not the edge. Drill the holes, using a fence with a stopblock on your drill press to ensure alignment and consistent spacing of the holes, and a brad-point bit wrapped with a piece of masking tape for a visual depth stop. Identify the bottom edge of the divider to ensure correct orientation during case as,'i-emhly.

7 sand the case parts to 180 grit. Then gluc, biscuit, and

Glue, biscuit, and clamp together the right side (AI, bottom and center panels (B), and divider (el. Check the assembly for square.

8 Measure the width of the opening between the divider (C) and right

side CAl. Then trim the length of the shelf (D) tu your measurement Jess ~ •. Cut the back (E) to size to fit between the rabbeted edges of the sides CAl. Sand the back smooth, and set it aside.

clamp together the right side (A), bot­tom and center panels (B), and divider (C) [Photo 8J. Ensure correct orientation of the divider with the side that has holes for the shelf supports facing the right side, and the bottom edge against the bottom panel. To make it easy to complete the case as~mbly, cut a 5x6" piece from :Y." scrap for a spacer. USing Let's add the door the spacer and a clamp to hold the top 1 Determine the exact size for the panel in position, glue, biscuit, and door (F) by measuring the opening clamp the panel and left side In place to [Photo 01 . Subtract W from each mea-complete the case [Photo Cj. surement (to allow a Yl.6" reveal all

'(l -- - "7' S,S>'..:. @~- ­r~ :~~ ---17-;-/'~31"---

-., Milered ~

II EXPLODED VIEW ends -- ~8 x 'Y." F.H . .! wood screw

® eneer

ad ing 2V.· wrap·around hinge

Add the top panel (8) and left side (A) to complete the (lise, USing a spacer to hold the top panel in place while Instatlrng the side.

around), and cut the door to size. Apply the edging. Sand the door smooth.

2 1'0 mount the door (F), position two 2~" wrap-around hinges on the

door [Orillwing 21. Drill pilot holes, and fasten the hinges using the screws sup­plled with the hinges. Place the case on its right side. Then, to easily poSition the door in the openlng, place lh6"-tall spac­ers under the door and a Yl.6"-thlck spacer (to set the reveal) hetween an end of the door and the bottom panel (8) [Photo E). With the hinge barrels tight against the front edge of the right side (A), screw-mount the hinges to the side.

Em STRIKE PLATE DETAil

~ Strike plate

- '" "--MagnetiC

catch

Veneer edgillQ

/trlke plate

. . YWirePUIl

® -\; ..... ,

-4!tH ~"""'" 19'h"

v.·1 G Gil

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44 WOOD m.g.zlne Novem~r 2007

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®

veneer edging_

3Remove the door and hinges. Layout tlnd drill hoie5 for ~tew.mountjng a

4" wire pull to the door [Drawing 2]. Set tht' door and hinges aside.

Now make the drawers

1 Cut the drawer sides (G) and large­and small-drawer fronts/backs (H,

I), bottoms U, K), and faces (L, M) to the sizes listed.

D ORAWERS

2 USing a dado blade In your tablesaw, cut the dadoes and rabbets into

parts G, H, and I to form the lock-rabbet joint IDrawing 31 . Then cut the groove along the bottom edges of these parts to receive the large- and small-drawer bot­toms 0, K). For help with the drawer a~cmbly and installation, see page 48.

3sand all of the parts smooth. Then, glue, assemble, and clamp together

,t." dadoes 1/, ' deep v.' Irom ends

. A . _ .... " 13W 27·Y.

'i. ' rabbet ~ V.' grooves V. ' deep 'I.' deep

Drawer-face centerline

14' drawer ~ i de, centered

LARGE ORAWER

SMALL DRAWER

woodm.,g.adrHI.c:om

If." (rom bottom edge

'/.' grooves V,' deep Vo' from bottom edge

~~;;;;';;;;;;;;;;;;;:;h. door IFlin the case opening using 1':I,.' _tilll and 'I,.'-thick spacers. Mount the hinges to the side (A).

the large drawer and four small drawers, checking each for ~quare.

4 Separate the large and small mem­bers of five pairs of 14' drawer slide-s.

USi ng a squarc, draw centerlines along the length of the drawer sides (G). Cen­ter a small slide member on each centerline. Mark the mounting holes. Now drill pilot holes, ant1 drive the sup­plied screws.

5 TO mount the large slide members in the case, draw centerlines on the

sides (A) for t he large drawer where dimensioned \ DrawIng 11, using a square. Then draw centerllnes on the left (drawer-side) face of the divider (C) and the imide face of the left side (same loca­tions as for the diVider) for the small drawers, where dimensioned. Center the slides on the lines, ~' from the front edges of the sides and divider, and mount in place. (We cut spacers from Y4" hardboard to the needed widths to eas­ily position the slides for mounting.) Now slide in the drawers.

6 Make two caples of the drawer-pull fu ll-size pattern from the WOOD

Patterns. insert. Mark a centerlinc across the width of the large-drawer face (L) and one small-drawer face (M). Spray­adhere a pattern to each face, aligning the pattern and marked centerline.'>. Bandsaw and sand to the pattern line. Then, using the small-drawer face as a template, mark the remaining faces. Band~w and sand them to shape.

7 APPIY a few pieces of double-faced tape to the back of the large- and

small-drawer faces (L, M). Center the faces in the openings, and press them tightly against the drawer fronts. Remove the drawers. Then drill countersunk mounting holes through th(> fronts and into the faces I Drawing 31, and drive the screws. Remove the fronts and tape.

45

Reattach the fronts. Remove the slides from the drawers and case.

Top It off, and finish up

1 Cut the plywood top (N) to size. Then, from ~" stock 36" long, rip

three pieces that match the thickness of the top to form the front/back and side edging (0, Pl. You'll usc twoofthe pieces for the front/back. Crosscut the remain­i

2Piece in half for the sides. Miter-cut one end of each edging piece. Next, pOSition a long and

~hort piece against an edge and cnd of the top (N), with the mitered ends tight together. Mark the ends of the pieces for miter-cuttIng to the exact lengths [Photo FJ, transferring the marks on the heels onto the top faces. Trim the pieces. Then glue and clamp them to the top. Now fit and mark each of the remaining edging pieces. Miter-cut and mount them in the same way.

3 Sand the top (N/O/P) smooth.

door (F) [Drawings 2 and 2aj with the supplied screw, Close the door. Keeping the door flush with the front of the case, reach in from the hal.:k and position the mag­netic catch, and mark the mounting holes on the cen­ter panel (B). Then screw­mount the catch.

7 FinallY, position the back (E) onto the case.

Drill the mounting holes through the back and into the case, and drive the screws [Drawing 21. Now declutter your desk or shop, and load up the cart. •

Writt~n by Owen Duvall PlOie(t de:\ign: Jeff M.tb Illustrations: ROlllu,..,e LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

Then glue and damp the top to the case, centering the top front-to-back and side-to-side.

Cutting Diagram

4 Sand to 180 grit any areas that

need it, and remove the dust. Apply a stain and finish. We applied Varathane no. 218 Traditional Pecan Stain followed by three coats of Min wax PolycrylicWater-l\ased Clear Satin Protective Finish, sanding to 220 grit between coats.

5 Place the cart with the bottom

up. PositIon 21¥!~'

heavy-duty, twin­wheel locking casters [Drawing 2] on the bottom, with the mounting plates W from the case edges. Mark and drill the mounting holes. Then secure the casters with the supplied screws.

:Yo )( 48)( 96" Oak plywood

CD ®

® ®

® ® ,

V~ x 48 x 96 Birch plywood

¥~ x 7V~ x 96" Poplar (5.3 bd. ft.)

1'<DfFD8 ¥~ x 71/. )( 60' Poplar (3.3 bd. It.)

Tape pieces for the front (or back) and side edging (0. P) to the top (N). Mark Iheedglng for th@h@@lsofthe mitered ends.

A "'''' II .. 15¥~" 26'/1" 0'

B """, 'I." 15V, '" OP

C· divider 'I." 151;," 19'/0" DO'

D' "'''' 'I" 14'12" 13W 0'

E """ V." 28'1" 26'/1" " F doo~ 'I" 13Yt 19'12" 0'

Draw~n

G "", 'fl" " 14' e !i!rge--draweJ '1>" 3' 26V .. , f~<iOOd<

H

small-drawE'r V, 3' 12'1t" , frOllt'i/backs

large-drawer 'I. H'h" 26Y," Be bottom

small-<lrawer 'I. H'fl" 12'1t" " bon",,,, K

, ,

" ,

•

•

M small-draW1!r ,~'"

'!." 4'1. HYI" 0 "

0" front/back edging

• PNts il1iti ~Hy CUI oversi~e. 51!!! the innructklns. tElW<t door width . oo Itrlgth iIIt dettrmined by measurtmen\ of the OPl'l1in9 during ;r.;semb~ to .lIow Io! the lhicknes~ 0( the ve!1te edgil'lg. Materials key: OP-oakplywood, BP-birch plywood, P-popIJr,O-oak.

6 Remount the hInges, door,

and wire pull. Slide in the drawers. Mount the strike plate for the magnetic catch on the back face of the

'Plane or resaw 10 the thiCKness listed In the Materials List. ..... c------, Stl ppUas: 1/."_wide iron·on veneer edging (approri­mately 21,); '20bi'iCuill; l'·kmg wood roller;2V4wrap· around hifl9~ 11 pr.);4"wire Plll~ 14· dla_rslld~$15 prs.t, spray adh~ve; double-faced 1ape; fS)<I/~' and '8><1" flathead wood S(rews; 211/,," heavy--duty, tlVln-wheel Iodir.g c.ast~s (-4); magnetic catch; W shelf ~uppom \4). Bhlde lind bits: Dado-b~~!.tt (or 11."rabbt>llng rouler DIt), '1.' brad-point bit.

46 WOOD magAl.inll Nov~mber 2007

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At each show, make sure to stop by WOOD tv\agozine's SawDust Cafe' .

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SawDust C'1fe

Watch FREE short videos on making drawers and

mounting drawer slides at woodmagazlne.com/vldeos.

DORAWER BOX PAR1~ EXPLODED VIEW

Y4' rabbet Vo" deep <:. AC

48

Limiting yourself to furniture proj· ects without drawers Is like trying to drive without using the steering

wh~l: Either way. you won't g~t far. But once you master how to measure, build, and mount these basic drawers, you're on the road to a world of furniture and storage projects.

v." dadoes V. deep \14' In from ends

DRAWER BOX FRONT

I

DRAWER FRONT

Start with design decisions Two basic drawer styles will fit most project n~eds. Build imet drawers when you want the drawer front flush with the cabinet frame. as we did with thl:! storage cart on paXe 42. Or build partial­or full-overlay dr:rlNers to conceal the frame with the drawer fronts. We'll focus on making inset drawers [Drawing 11. the ones we use most often. • Mounting. Choose a drawer slide or other mounting method compalible with inset drawers. Of the dozens of options out there, the ones we use for most WOOv. magazine projects are full-extension slides, for their smooth

BLOCK-RABBEl JOINl

V Yo' dado v." deep V4' from iroot end

,LJ. -- l"" r y hv:-_ Vo' I-I I

V4" rabbet Vo" deep

WOOD magAJlne N~mbef 2007

SHOP TIP For grooves that fit, check drawer-bottom stock Not all sheet goods sold as W stock measure a true y." thick. If you don't discover that until alter you cut the drawer bottom grooves, t he rattle coming from your finished drawers wil l se rve as a constant reminder. For example, the lauan p lywood below leff measures close to lJ/6'", thin enough

operation and easy access to drawer con­tents. See ~Three Mounts that Count" on page 51 for two other popular options: European-style slides and loose drawers that ride on low-friction tape. • Materials. Economize by making drawer boxes out of less-t!xpensive materials than the rest of your project. We like poplar for its strength, light weight, and low price. For drawer bot-

IJORAWER MEASUREMENTS

to fit loosely_ Even today's hardboard sheets measure too thin for a tight fit. The Baltic birch plywood, below righf, comes closer to a true VI", even though it's typically manufactured in metric dimensions (\4" equals 6.35mm). For another source of V."-thick d rawer­bottom stock, try MOF-core plywood.

toms, we prefer Baltic birch plywood. It's strong, doesn't expand like solid wood, and measures a consistent LA" thick. (See the Shop Tip above.) . Joinery. Dovetails produce sturdy, attractive joints, but they're time­consuming. Lock-rabbet jOints (Drawing 2] also provide plenty of mechanical and glue strength and can be cut qUickly on a tablf'saw without special jigs.

~------------~~N-~------

c (8 (D)

---®---------

J Use this front view of a cabinet section to help calculate drawer-patt ~Izes to fit your project: • Drawer-box width: «:!equals ® minus 1". (This assumes '11" drawer-slide clearances @oneachside.Checkyourdrawerslide instructions for any variations.)

• For the drawer fronh, the len9th~ equals ® minus '1." Ifor two 1/," reveals). The wldth ®equal s@minus',4".

• We show the drawer-box helght ®wlth the same clearances as the width, but you can vary th is to suit your preferences.

woodmagadn ... c:om

Size the drawer to fit the hole Now, you're ready to calculate the drawer-box dimensions using the for­mulas in Drawing 3. Begin by measuring th~ cabinet opening width (A) and height (B). Full-extension slides typi­cally rl'quire liz' clearance on each side, so calculate the box width (C) by sub­tracting 1" from dimension (A). The box height (D) can vary to suit your needs.

For an easy way to remember how long to cut your box parts to allow for the lock-rabbet jOints, Just subtract l l,i" from (A) and from the hox length. To calculate sizes for the drawer front, sub­tract \Ie" to 1"" from dimension (A) and (B) when using full-extension slides, or 1,4" when using European-style slides.

Cut the drawer-box parts Consistent cuts yield tight-fitting. square drawers, so use stops instead of a mea­suring tape when cutting drawer parts to length [Photo A]. For a project with multiple drawers, cut all box fronts, backs, and side pieces in groups. AI~, cut extra parts to test your setups to make the lock-rabbet Joints.

To dado the box sides for the Ioci:­rabbet joint, first cut a 3" -wide spacer the length of your rip fence from 1,4" stock. Install a l,4" dado blade, set the rip fence 1,4" from the blade, and lock the blade 1,4" high [Drawing 4]. To test the fence

II DRAWER SIDE DADO SETUP FOR LOCK RABBET JOINTS -

Cut v.' dadoes \14' deep = into both ends ollhe drawer-box sides.

v.'

V .. - \ t--'-~

I (,.co clearance ~" d'do L

insert biaCle

50

OORAWER FRONT AND BACK DADO SETUP FOR LOCK-RABBET JOINTS

CUI a v.' rabbet %' deep into both ends of the drawer-box fronl and back.

v.' L position and blade height, cut dadoes into two scraps (Photo B], and che'k that they join snugly end-ta-end. Once you achieve a tight fit, dado both ends of each drawer side [Photo Cl.

To rabbet the box fronts and backs, attach the 1.4' shim to the fence using double-face tape [Drawing 5], and then rabbet the end of a scrap (Photo DI to test the fit with the dadoes cut in the previ­ous step. Next, cut a rabbet on both ends of each drawer front and back. Fine-tune the fit using a block with 120-grit sand­paper on one fan' [Photo El. The jOint

WOOD mAgazlrw I'>I<:wemhef 2007

should fit together with moderate hand prt'ssurc [Photo F).

To set up your tablesaw to cut the drawcr-tx)ttom grooves, simply remove the W shim without moving the fence. Then, cut grooves into the inside faces of all four pieces of each box [Photo GJ . Check the alignment of the box front, back, and sides using a piece of drawer­bottom scrap [Photo HI. Dry-assemble the box, and measure tht' Inside length and width. Add ¥:t~" to each of those dimensions, and cut the drawer bottoms to that size.

To assemble the drawers, apply glue to both dadoes in a side piece [Photo I) .

To keep plywood drawer bottoms from rattling, add a drop of glue at the center of each piece's drawer-hattom groove. In<;ert the front and hack pieces into the dadoes on a side piece, add the drawer bottom and then the other side piece [Photo J), and clampall four joints. Mea­sure both diagonals (Photo KJ to verify that the boxes are square.

Install the drawers To mount full-extension drawer slides, first measure and mark the cabinet or case with centerlines where each drawer slide will be mounted [Photo U. Then, mark height centerHnes on both sides of each drawer.

Next, remove the drawer-mounted part of the slide from the slide assembly that will mount on the case. The front of the case-mounted slide part rests !oil" from the front edge of the case-3,4' for the drawer front pius a lA" margin to k~p the drawer slide from bottoming out as It closes. The box-mounted sllde paTt mounts I ... • from the front end of the box side.

Both the drawer-slide parts that attach to the cabinet and the part that attaches to the drawer [Photo Ml use slotted holes to allow adlustments. Mark the loca­tions of the mounting screws within these holes, drill 3/32" pilot holes (for 4'16 pan head screws) into the hardwood piecc5, and mount the 51ide parts onto

.. oodm. g .... lne.com

.. , [i!J front

the drawers and the carcase [Photo NI , with the screws centered in rhe slotted holes. Now, insert the drawers, and check that the slides operate smoothly.

Attach the drawer fronts Before attaching drawer fronts to the boxes, cut about a dozen 1><3" spacers from 1/16"_thick strips for full~xtenslon

Three drawer mounts that count Low-frlt:tlon tape Cost: $6.29-$22 per 10' roll, depending on material and thickness load capacity: As much as the drawer can hold. Sizes: Widths range from 1h"-3". Variations : Some tape uses ultra-high molecula r weight (UHMW) material instead of nylon. Comments : Apply where the edges of the drawer side5 ride on the carcase. Use thi s where you want a traditional drawer style without slides or mounts.

European-st)'le slides Cost: $2.1S-$6.40 per pair for standard slides; $45-$60 for heavy-duty versions. Load capacity: 55-100 Ibs. Heavy-duty versions hold up to 220 Ibs. Sizes: 12"-26" long Variations: White, brown, or almond slide~ come 10"-24" long in bottom/side-mount (shown) or side·mount versions. Comments: An economical alternative to full- extension slides, they also reqUire the sa me Y2" side clearances. These slides allow more play in the drawer movement than fu ll -extension slides, so use 'I.' revea \~.

Full-extension slides Cost: S7-S22.S0 per pair for slides up to lOO-lb capacity; up to S330 per pair for heavy-duty, SOO-Ib-capacity slides. Load capacity: Most support 100 Ibs. Sizes: 12"-28" long in the l00-lb capacity Variations: Over-travel slides support the drawer outside the cabinet. Self-dosing slides pun the drawer fu lly closed. Mini slides fi t a V.' side clearance for small projects. Comments: Unlike the E.uropean-style slides, these don't !'lave a right- or left-hand side. They allow less movement, permitting 'h," reveals around inset drawers.

52

drawer slides or I/e"_thlck strips for Euro­pean-style slides. Attach double-faced tape to the box to temporarily mount the drawer front, and use spacers to leave a consistent gap around the drawer front. With the spacers Inserted a~

shown [Photo 0 ], press the drawer front against the box, push the drawer out from the back, and reinforce the tape with a clamp. Then remove the drawer with the clamp still attached, and insert two mounting screws from inside the box, as shown on page 48. Repeat for the remaining drawer fronts.

If you want a knob or pull on the drawer fro nt, remove the mounting screws, and detach the front from the box. Mark where you want lhe hardware, then drill the mounting-screw holes. Counterbore the holes into the back side of the drawer front so the screws ~it flush

[Photo Pl . Usc the holes to tempora rily screw the drawer front to the box [Photo OJ, and reinsert the two mounting screws to attach the drawer front onto the box.

Dnct' you've finished your project [Phgtg RJ, you may need to finc-tune the slide adjustments, See uTroubleshoot Misaligned Drawers" below for tips on getting d rawers flush and even . •

Sources low·frlctlon drawer tape: Nylon t.lpe:no. 70615, S6.29lor a Y,' xlO' roll caW RockIer Woodworking and Hallfware at 800-279-4441; roclller.(om. Ultr~·high molKularweight tape no, l5U04.0I, SI0.30 for a l·xIS' roll, ca ll Lee Valley Tools at 800·871·8158; leevalley.com. Dr __ slides: Full-e~temjonand European--style sire in " variety of sizes and styles <We available from RcdI«WoodworIdng and Hardw .... e: Ltfo Valley ToolS; Grlzzly Industrial. 8O(j·523-<4m, or grinty.(om; and woodailft, 800·225·1153, orwoodmft.com.

Troubleshoot misaligned drawers

When a drawer front does this ...

0' ......... .,. allequalbetw •• n .. top IIndboUom •

TM .... fnNI'I~slt "udl whtr tIM c.w .... C.M.

.. . here's where to fix the problem.

To fix drawers wi th unequal reveal s on the top or bottom, loosen the screws attaching the slide to the drawer box and raise or lower the slide illS needed.

Slotted hole for adju~tments

When a (orner of the drawer front doesn't rut flu sh with the case, remove the drawer box and shift the case-mounted slide assembly for ward or backward,

Better Homes and Gardens®

PATTERNS November 2007 Issue 780

Dear Reader: As a service to you, we've included full-size patterns on this insert for irregular shaped and intricate project parts. You can machine all other project parts using the Materials List and the draw­ings accompanying the project you're building.

Cl Copyright Meredith Corporation, 2007. All rights reserved . Printed in the U.S.A. Meredith Corp., the publisher of WOOD Patternsl!. allows the purchaser of this pattern insert to photocopy these patterns solely for personal use. Any other reproduction of these patterns is strictly prohibited .

Mitered end : on inside face ~

Turned Screwdriver, Page 72

Ferrule

11/a" diam.

SCREWDRIVER HANDLE

FULL-SIZE PATTERN

1¥8" diam.

7/16" diam.

53

Better Homes and Gardens®

PATTERNS November 2007 Issue 180

Dear Reader: As a service to you, we've included full-size patterns on this insert for irregular shaped and intricate project parts. You can machine all other project parts using the Materials List and the draw­ings accompanying the project you're building.

Cl Copyright Meredith Corporation, 2007. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Meredith Corp., the publisher of WOOD Patterns<!ll, allows the purchaser of this pattern insert to photocopy these patterns solely for personal use. Any other reproduction of these patterns is strictly prohibited.

Mitered end : on inside face ~

Turned Screwdriver, Page 72 - --- - - - - - - ---- -- - - - - --- -- - -- - -- - ----- --- ,

Ferrule

I 1 :V1S" diam.

11/s" diam.

SCREWDRIVER HANDLE

FULL-SIZE PATTERN

1¥a" diam.

7/1S" diam.

,

- - - - - --I , , ,

54

Scrollsawn Ornaments, Page 76

55

Scrollsawn Ornaments, Page 76

Storage Cart, Page 42

Align with Align with drawer-face top edge. centerline.

©,@ DRAWER PULL

FULL-SIZE PATTERN

Ikebana Vase, Page 68 , : Mitered end © : on inside face

i/ BASE SIDE FULL-SIZE PATTERN

: Mitered end @ Mitered end : on inside face BASE END FULL-SIZE PATTERN on inside face :V ------------------------- ~ , ,

1114" : (

~~--~)---- - -- - - ---------------- -- - ---- - ~--~-56

Storage Cart, Page 42

Align with top edge.

©o@ DRAWER PULL

FULL-SIZE PATTERN

Ikebana Vase, Page 68 , : Mitered end : on inside face

i/ ,

Align with drawer-face centerline.

© BASE SIDE FULL-SIZE PATTERN

: Mitered end @ : on inside face

BASE END FULL-SIZE PATTERN Mitered end

on inside face : V , ------------------------- ~ 1114" :

,

, , , , ,

~~--~ - --- - -- -- ---------------- -- ---- -- ~--~

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Three-window

Photo

-~. PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS • Overall dimensions: 17W wide )(

214" deep )( 8Y.' high. • Displays up to she: photos. • Shown here in clear-finished cherry.

Skill Builder a Learn how to.saVE' time by planing one

piece of lumber large enough to accommodate all the parts of equal thickness. Also, grouping small parts on a large blank allows you to safely cut them to size.

Make the parts

1 From a -l4x-l4x30' blank, cut the end pmts (A) to length IMaterlals List,

58

"""'--"'" .. Here's a great last-minute gift you can assemble from hardwood odds and ends. The two-sided design lets you double the number of photos displayed by placing them back-to-back between the panes.

page 601. Rip the remaining blank to -l4x~' and cut the middle posts (lJ) to length. Then attach an extension to your tablcsaw miter gauge, and a stop­block to the extension [Drawing 1J. Now cut l1I" dadoes W deep Into the fron t and back faces of the posts [Df"awin9 2J.

2 PlaCC two photos between I wo pieces of~· clear acrylic. and adjust a dado

blade to cut a groove to fit this thiCk· ness. Then cut groows Into the Inside edge of each end post (A) and hoth edges of the middle posts (B) (Drawing 21. Fin· ish-~nd the posts.

3 For the bars (C) and cap (D), cut a ~x2JAx16W hlank. Then, with a

from vertiCIl I .

i the tap (D) ildhered to a l:arrier board a nd the tablesaw blade t ilted 27· from vertlul, t ut the edge bevels.

WOOD mAgulrHI November 2007

Pla(e~~~~~~~~~~!~ the post ends, and Glue Ihe bars (e) in place,

zero-clearance insert in your tahle.'i3W, rip four bars from the t.>dge of the blank. Finish-sand the bars.

4 Rip the cap (DJ to finished width from the remaining :Ji"-thlck blank.

Layout the end bevels LDrawing 301 ), and disc-sand them to shape. Then cut a }'.xlxZO· carrier board from S(.Tap, and adhere the cap to it, flush at the edges, with double-faced tape. Cut the edge beveh [Photo A]. Finish-sand the cap.

5 For the plates (E) and base (F), cut a Ytx4lhxl7" blank. Then rip the two

plales to width, and rip and crosscut the base to size. Adhere the plates face-to­face with double-faced tape, keeping the ends and edges flush. Layout the he" hole centers [Drawing 3], and drl\! through both plates on your drill press. Separate the plates, and countersink the

.CUTTING THE POST DADOES

the screws.

holes on the hottom face of the bottom plate for /;4 flathead screws. Finish-sand the plates and hase.

6 Cut a ~x2\4){6 ' blank for the feet (G). Then chuck a chamfer bit Into

your table-mounted router, and chamfer the top edges. Now cut a foot to length from each ~nd of the blank jDrawing 31. Finish-sand the feet.

Assemble the frame

1 Cut three 41,ix41,i' spacers from scrap. Then glue the bars (C) Into

the end-post (A) and middle-post (B) dadoes [Photo BJ.

2 eut two W -(hick spacers, and fasten the bottom plate (E) to the posts (A,

B) [PhotoCJ.

3 Adhere the top plate (E) to the P()~t:; (A, B), centered all

to the plate I. centered. applying I sure to the bars (e) close 10 the posts

around, with double-faced tape. Stand the assembly upright on your drill-press table, and using the hob In the top plate as guides, drill W holes W deep into the posts (A, B). Remove the top plate and the tape. Glu~ and clamp the cap (D), I."entered. to the top plate (1).

4 Cut four ¥.I·.long pieces of~' dowel, and glue them into the holes in the

tops of the posts (A, B). Drill a Whole Into a piece of W -thick scrap and place it over each dowel. If any dowel protrudes, sand it flush.

5 G1ue and clamp the feet (G) to the base (F) [Drawing 3]. Then glue and

damp this assembly to the frame assem· bly (A/B/C/D/E) [Photo 0].

·Size grooves to accept two pieces of acrylic and two photos .

• v..' groove Vi' deep inside face. centered ' 1/.." grooves

ElpOSTS

'40' dadoes y .. " deep) Yo"

V,"

Outside lace

&Y .. '

END POST

~~~ '18. deep, Ii centered

'lHiH-"I- Vi' dadoes V .. ' deep

®

Slopblock MIDDLE POST

'II" dadoes \1.0" deep

woodmllgllll_.c;om

'It' dadoes Y' deep

Place two photos two VI" 3cryU, panes. Then slide the entire sandwi<;h into the post lA, B) grooves.

#4 x :v." F. wood screw

'" !I

B

the lop ( posts (A, B)

-_c __ 41/,,"-

C , -' , ~-

B

No chamfer on this lace

, ; ,h. top p late [E).

';i," chamfer

~" w~o ,h,m'" 00 ,"" ,,,.

-- -W'h,m',!< G . Cutting Diagram 2W '> F'iij""'~~--=------'i' ___ ~1'" ~

'Y. x 5'12 x 36" Cherry (1.500. ft.)

Apply finish, add photos

1 Examine all the parts, and finish­sand where needed. Ease any sharp

edges with a sandinghkx.:k. Apply a clear finish. (We applied three coats of satin lacquer from a spray can.)

2USing your fin~st~tooth tablesaw blade and a zew-c1earance insert,

cut six J,ix4~x6+t ' clear acrylic panes. Sand away the saw marks from the top and bottom edges. Then Install the panes and photos [Photos E and Fl . •

Written by Jan ho( with K_in Bo~l e Project desi9n; Jeff M .. ,u IIlu'tration" Roxlnne LeMoine; lorn. Johnson

IDeAPBEVElS

~ i~ I 1'--1

EDGE BEVELS

END BEVELS

Materials List FI"II.HW SIl.(

Part T W L Mati Qtr

A' end postS W ¥." 1>'1." C , " middle posts ]/. If." 6'1." C 2

C' bm 11." II ." 16Vl" C • D' '" II." 1" 16Yl" c E' plates 'I." P;," ,,. , , F' .... V. 1" 16'11" C

G' , .... VI" 1'14" 11(1" C , 'P~m initially CUI oVHsile. see the instructiom,

Material key: (-cherry. Supplies: Doubl~fa<ed tape, _4,.'1. flathead wood .screws (4), V,' cIowel. V." CleM ~crylk.

BlNe and bit: Stack dado ~t,4S' chamfer Jouterbi\

'Plane or resaw to the th icknesses listoo in the MaterialS LISt.

60 WOOD mllguln. NovemtX'r 2007

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www.pennstateind.com/nodust3 elide No. 1623

--­~~. Wit:h nearly as much capacity and power as floor-standing units. these brutes get the job done-for half the price.

Thinking about buying a floor­model drill press? Consider this: How oflen do you bore into the

long axis of a workpiece (a lamp base, for example)? Nearly all drIlUng in

62

woodworking calls for the tahle to be situated within 4" of the c huck. That means a bcnchtop drill press not only can handle most of your drilling needs but it abo costs about half as much as a

floor-standing model. Now, hc!fore you dismiss b~nchtop drills as toy modcb, read on to find out how manufacturers have narrowed the gap betwt"en them and their ta ller cousins.

WOOD maga:lin.. Nov~mbl!r 2007

-

Three-pulley systems (left) provide more speed selection Ind slipped less under torque thiln stepped two-pulley systems (center) In our tests_ For continuous ViJrlable spud, Ryobl 's shiv pulleys (righr) open and close II you change the speed setting. At top speNt, as shown, the drive pulley closes down to run the belt neilr Its outer perimeter, whUe the spindle pulley opens 11$ widest. For the slowest speed, the dri~ pulley opens up and the spindle pulley doses down. The \lilri .. bl~spe-ed presses In our test also e)(hlblted little, if any, slippage under torque.

Benchtol' drill presses do the Job for less money Despitc their small size, benchtop mod­els offer workpiece capacities prt>tty close to (ull-size presses. All eight machines we tested offer 12-14" of swing (giving you 6-7" between the chuck. center and column), compared with the 17" swing typical ofa floor-model dri ll press. Seven feature at least a 3" stroke (the maximum depth you can plunge a bit). Stationary presses range from a 3*," to S' Stroke. Here again, how often do you drill deeper than a 3" hole?

Although a few have less, most of the tested presses have ~. to ¥,.hp motors, equal to those on typical floor models. Most have ample power to bore holes larger than 2'1./;" without forcing the bit to stall, although two machines strug­gled in that te~t.

Don't let a small p'ackage betray the power Inside Curiam. to see if these ma(hines' horse· power ratings ('onverted to real drilling powt"I, we foree·fed each drill pres. .. a steady diet of hard maple and white oak under large bits and hole saws, trying to make the bits stall. Using a sharp 2Yl" Forstner bit and a 2l4- holc saw, we drilled into 2"-thick stock, going easy at first, and then forcing it.

Drm presses with three pulleys, such as the Shop Fox, shown ahoY(;' left, han· dll'd these tough tests best without the motor stalling or the belts Slipping. The two variable-speed units-the Delta DP-350 and Ryobi DP121L- also per­formed we!!, a\ their wide V·belts trans­ferred power from the pulleys tu the spindle without slipping. On the other hand, Craftman's 21914 and Delta's OP300L proved easier to stall with their narrow V-belts and smallish pulleys.

For speed changes, you just can't beat the ease of the variable-speed controls on the Delta Or3S0 and Ryobi drill presses, shown at right. We like this fea· ture because It encourages us to actually change speeds--come on, we've all been guilty of not changing speeds for differ· ent sizes of bits, right?-by making it so darned easy. With variable-speed presses, the drive and spindle pulleys open and dose, as shown at top right, changing the chuck speed as you adjust the speed· control handle. We give extra kudos to Ryobi for Including a digital display that shows the spindle speed.

Variable-speed control eliminates the nuisance of moving belts to make s~ changes, which can be difficult, espe­cially on taller models like the Grizzly

G048S and r.7943 and the Rlkon 30-120. On multispeed units llke these, we prefer the lever-style locks, shown at bot­tom lefl. on the Grizzly G7943 and Rikon 30-120, which make it easy to adjust motor tension. Spring-loaded rods on others proved more troublesome.

63

Expect your depth stops to be accurate, repeatable Every drill press should have a sturdy, reliable stop for drilling multiple holes to the same depth. The Ryobi and Delta DP350 did not. These eight units feature two styles of depth stops (shown above): a threaded rod on the left side of the

These three tUI samples show the depth difference between the lOOth and first holes for the Ryobl (rop), Delta DP350 (cente,), and Grizzly G0485 (bottom).

Other features to influence your buying decision • Spindle runout was a pesky, but not major problem. Runout-thc wobble of the spindle as [t spins-varied from .001' to .009" with the eight machines when measured with a precision steel rod locked in the chucks. (Industry standards vary, but several manufacturers say they demand .006" or le~ of spindle runout.) But when we drilled holes with each machine USing a 2" Forstner bit, we found almost no dif­ference in diameter, even on the machines with the greatest runout. We did find that the wobble In the worst machines made it slightly tougher to

64

head or a dial stop on the handle shaft. To test the effectiveness of each unit's stop, we drilled 100 holes using a %" Forstner bit, and then measured tht depth of the first and last holes with a digital caliper, noting any variation.

Threaded-rod stops with locking nuts performed flawlessly in our tests, with hole depths varying le~ than .005". The qukk.release nut on Delta's DP350, however, rotated about a ljuarter·turn during the testing, resulting in a differ· ence of .018- from the first hol(' to the last. We found mixed results with the dial stops, with hole depths on thr!:!!:' machines changing from .003" to .OOS". However, Ryobi's 100tl1 hole was .062" (Yl6") deeper than its first.

Don't look for the Ideal drill-press table here With all the improvements made to drill presses recently, manufacturers continue to overlook tables. All tested models have cast·iron tables-better suited for metalworking-wIth rack·and·pinion

place the point of a spinning bit pre· dst'ly onto a ctosshair. • Lase" prove helpful. The Craftsman, Delta DP300L, and Ryobl have bright. red uosshair lasers to aid in aligning your drill bit. Once (:ali­brated, they proved dead·on at marking the centerpoint of any bit. Ryobi gets praise for easy adjustment and for being wired to the machine. (The others are battery.operated.) Delta's laser mounts to the column lust below the head, so it provides the hest angle, especia lly for large bits that can block the others. Craftsman's laser location led us to acd­dentally knock it out of adjustment several times during testing.

Left to rig~t Thr~aded ·rod dept h 5tops with two locking nuts proved the most reliable in our test.

Delta 's DP3S0 has a qukk· release nut for making large depth adjustments quickly.

Dial stops, like this one on the Rlkon, stop the quill·fel!d handle rotation to conlrol drilling deplh.

The undersides of these three tables show how difficult It can be to find good clamping area, except on the Ryobi.

crank lifts. Large, deep gussets and extended rims underneath make it dif· Hcult to clamp workpieces to the tables. The best of the bunch is on the Ryobi with a 2"·widc perimeter underneath, as shown aixwe. We could damp a fen(;e or jigs to this table eaSier than the others.

• Handle leverage proves critical for larger bits. A long handle provjde~ more force than a short one on a drill press. The handles on two tested models (Rlkon and Delta's DP300L) proved uncomfortably .. hort. One of Craftsman's three handles, shown on the next page, top, produced good leverage and the most comfortable and ergonomiC feel of any handle. • Mortising with these presses requires great patience. Sure, you call use mortising attachments on most of these machines. (All but Ryobi offer them as accessories.) But between removing eqUipment (lasers, chuck guards, etc.) to make room for the

WOOD magarln~ Nowmber 2007

attachment, fussing with adding and aligning a fence, and adjusting the depth stops, it's hardly worth the effort. Instead, we believe it's worth the money to invest In a benchtop mortlser. • Come on, baby, light my work. Incandescent lights mounted inside the head behind the chuck produce a lot of light, but large bits create a shadow on the centerpoint you need to sec. We prefer incandescent lights mounted on flexible necks (on both Delta models) so you can direct light exactly where you need it. Craftsman's flexible LEO light proved too dim to offer much help. • It's a hlIndy sander, too. Shop Fox's WI668 converts to an oscil­lating spindle sander, shown at far right, with a simple belt change. Insert one of the three sanding drums into the chuck, and then swing the table so the drum can drop through the 214" holE' .. • Switches do mak~. dtffe,..nce. You only need a power switch to turn a

Craft sman's norh:ontal handle proved effect ive and comfortable, eYen with large bits that require more forc e.

machine on and off. But it matters most when you need it in an emergency. WE' Ilke front-mounted paddle-style switches because they're easiest to turn off,

When usIng Shop Fox', drill prest in ,lin oscl llatlng spI ndle sander, attach your sl'lop vacuum hose to the 2'/4" dust port .

especially if you can't take your eyes off your work. Shop Fox's side-mounted paddle switch proved more dIfficult to find quickly.

Meet the benchtop drill t eam

Craftsman 21914, $200 800-383-4814, craftsman.com We like the unique quill-feed handle and digital depth scale, but the drive belt on this light-duty machine slipped easily while drilling with large hits. With high spindle runcut, we hat! difficulty placing hit." onto a pinpoint crosshalr. The LED worklight is a g{xxl idea, but too dim. You need to remove-and later recalibrate-the laser from the quill to install a mortising attachment,

Delta DP300L, $200 800-223-7278, deltaportercable.com Like the Craftsman, this machine is light-duty, with the bdt slipping easily when ming large bits and hole saws. Its handles are small and toylsh, it has an inch less of quill stroke than the uther models, and it has the smallest tahle. The Dr~OOL's laser proved accurate and helpful, and we liked the fleXible work­light. Its dial depth stop performed well in testing.

Delta DP350, $240 800-223-7278, deltaportercable.com We love the versatility of this unit's vari­able speed, although the addition of speed markings on the scale would make this good drill press even better. The depth stop's quiCk-release nut makes for fast adjustments but slipped more than we like in Our 100-hole test. Large quill­feed handles provide good leverage, and the- flexible incandescent worklight puts bright light where needed.

65

Grlzzly G0485, $190 800-523·4777, grlzzly.com This no·frills drill press proved itself capabllt and accurate beyond our expec­tations, given Its low price. It had the least amount of quill and spindle run· out, and Its depth stop produced 100 h()l~s ofidenllcal depth-the ~st in the test. With a bottom-end speed of 230 rpm and top ~peed of 3,270 rpm (16 tota!), the G04BS provides a wider speed range than most, for large and small hits. It's Ihe only unit to indude a clear· plastic safety guard around the chuck.

66

Grizzly G7943, 1225 800-523-4777, grizzly.com Capacity, capacity, capacity: The G7943's 14~ swing. lfI-hp motor, and ~. chuck were a ll tops among the eight tested machines. It also has a generous table, and weighed the mm1 at 140 pounds. WIth a test-best slow speed of 140 rpm, it has the low-cnd torque to handle large boring jobs with case, and its threaded­rod depth stop proved reliable. OUf lone knock: With the most spindle runout in the test, we had difficulty pladng bits onto d pinpoint crosshal!.

Rlkon 30-120, $250 877-884-5167, rlkontools.com Rikon's 42"-lall machine provides the largest vertical capacities in the test. Rut it a lso ,equlr~d a step-stool to change speeds. The 30-120'5 low-end 220 rpm proves a plus for large bits, and ib 3,600 rpm top speed was highest among the eight machines. With the largest table center hole (114"), it also has replaceable inserts. The handles are short and awk­ward to use, though, and we bumped our hand regularly on the motor ten· sioning lever when lowering the quill.

WOOD m a gazlnt! Nov~mber 2007

Ryobl DPI21L, $170 800·525·2579, ryobitoob.com The DP121L sports big-machine featu res (variable speed, digital speed d isplay, and a reliable Laser crosshair that never needs batteries) at a benchtop drill-press price. It has the best table fo r clamping with an ad justable tilting !lealt', and the price Includes a work-holding vise. Only one thing stood between the DP121L and our Top Tool award: Its depth stop slipped the most in our testing. If you don't do much multiple-hole drilling, though, get this machine.

Shop Fox WI668, $260 800-840-8420, shopfox,blz The W1668 Is an average-performing drill press that doubles as an osclllatlng spindle sander and comes with th ree drums 1- 2· In diameter. That may make it worth the premium price to you. It has a good speed range, and its depth stop proved reliable in our testing. The sand­ing relief hole and dust port make clamping workpleces to the right side of the table difficult. The left-side-mounled power switch Is more difficult to reach than fmnt-mounted ones.

Not~: , Lirgnt di.lmrltr wodpiM)'O\I un drilll0 1M (tilltr. (Oo~ 1ht disuno:, f10m 1ht dllJ(k n"fllrllO 1M o:nlumll ~~.

L ,VI, Vaflabl~spN'd

1 10' ~Ideplll~op

'W Thr~iCled rCld With quick-rtlm~ nul

(1' Ihrudt~ rod wllh kxklng nu~

.. , . Dwf sIClpWl~ nullol:k III INI ~lQP with 1!"'I~r 100k

'" 'hruded r~d Wllh nUl led ,. Thr~~drod wilh Itv~ led

, ,. &iUon

'M P~Odlt

(1' T099lf

6. "" IrI(alld~tbtJlb Dfltldi~lt~ rm

". 11\(~~I1l!brJlbinhta(i

(LED) Ught~~Ling dillClf Of! fImbI~ irm (MIA) Ito hght illdu(\ed

I.

,.

••

10.

Most perform well; Here's what we'd buy There was no runaway choJce for Top Tool because each machine had its quirks. Nevertheless, we feel confident in recommending both the Grizzly 00485 and Delta DP350 as Top Tools. The Grizzly is a solid, no-frill~ machine that delivers highly accurate results-its depth stop never budged while drilling 100 holes.

We like the Delta DP350 for its variable-speed control, surprisingly high torque, flexible work light, and large knobs on long handle shafts. We'd be willing to live with a little slippage of Its depth stop to have the variable speed.

The unreliable depth stop on the Ryobi DPl21L kept it froOl con­tending for Top Tool. But if that's a non-Issue for you, this i~ a power­ful variable-speed drill press, nicely equipped, fOr $70 less than the DP350. So the np121l. earns our Top Value award .•

Written by Ioob Hunter with Jeff H.II

= E.Mtefit . """ Flir

Sorin9 wllh 2Y1" fl>l"sln~ bit and 2~' 1"10110 lAW in bMd m.lplund"h~UH.

If' ftll(t ., ChoIc1Ojl"ud

'" Chlic1ktyhollltr

'" Light 'M) M,mlsin9ltlMhrnrnt

'M ~ldll"><ldlO{k

0' s.rMling drums (ij TooIu", IVJ [)rlll~k,

Prius (Urnnllt time 0/ art;.:l, prOOulliDfl ~nd doc not lodudt ~jng. wflM jppIK"bIe.

67

1 From V."·thick stock, cut tray-side (A) blanks and base-side (C) blanks

to finished Width IMaterialslist l and 11" long. Then cut tray-end (8) blanks and base-end (D) blanks to flnished width and 6-long. Finish-sand the blanks.

2 CU\ rabocts a long the bottom inside edges of the tray-side (A) and tray­

end (8) blanks IDrawing 11_ Then, to make the part of the tray visible thlOugh the base (e, D) cutouts "dlsappear,~

coLor the bottom portion of each side and end IPhotoA].

3Adhere the base-side (el and base­end (0 ) blanks together back-to­

back and edges flush with double-faced tape. Photocopy the Sase Patterns on the WOOD Patterns. insert, and cut them out. Adhere the patterns to the appropri­ate paired blanks with spray adhesive, centering the patterns end-to-end. Then

68

Ikebana Vase Ikebana, the Jap<lnese art of arranging flowers, differs from Western practice by using

asymmetrical form and including empty space as part of the composition. Any plant

material-branches, leaves, grasses, moss, and fruit-may be used, Withered leaves,

seedpods, and buds are valued as highly as flowers in fu\\ bloom.

The vase is considered an important part of the whole. With this

simple project, you (an create a pebbled stage for a few carefully

chosen branches and blossoms.

mark the finished lengths and the over­lap of the tray parts A and B on the base parts Cand 0 [Drawlng 21. Now bandsaw .:Ind sand the cutouts, and remove the patterns. To get top-notch re~ults when sanding the cutouts, see page 26.

4 separate t he parts. Then glue and clamp the tray $ides CAl to the base

slde$ (C), and the tray ends (8) to the base ends (D), aligning the tray part /:x)t­tom edges with the overlap IIne~ on the ends of the base parts IDrawing 11. Use the glue sparingly to avoid !>4u~Le-out.

5 Mitt'.r the side-blank (AlC) and end­blan.k (HID) assemblies to finished

length, cutting to the lines marked on

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS • ~rall dimensions: 5Y.z" Wide x

lOW long 11: I¥.' high. • Shown here in cherry.

Skill Builder • Save time and ensure accurate miters

on layered parts by cutting the parts oversize, gluing them together, and mitering the assembled parts.

the base parts (e, 0). Then glue and damp the frame (Al B/C/O ), checking fo r square.

6 Check the dimensions of the t ray (AlB) rabbeted opening, and cut the

bottom (E) to sil.('. Chuck a 2" Forstner bit Into your drill press, and drill a hole fOJ the flanged flower arranger 1 Drawing 11. Finish-sand the bottom, and glue and clamp it into the tray rabbets.

7 From ¥4"-thick stock, cut a }xlZ' blank for the shott dividers (F) and

long divider (G). Check the dimensions from the tray sides and ends (A, B) to t he edge of the hole In the bottom (E), and cut the dividers to length. Band:S3w a notch into each part (Drawing 11 . finis h­sand the diViders, and glue and c1<lmp them in place [Photo BJ.

bottom blank and tray-end (81 blank black felt-t ip marker.

D EXPLODED VIEW

1 V,"

fitting, glue and clamp (EI and long divider (G) in place.

W,,'<>e" /e" doop

Materials List fiNISHED Silt

Pal't T W L MIt! Qty

" traySides '/4" lY4' 10" e , " tr3')'eods 1(4" 1'/4" S' e , C' base sido3 1(4" 11(4" 10'11" e D' ""',"", 1(4' 11(4" 51;," e , E boll0m V,' 4'1," ~/,· " F' shortdividers 1;4" ," W," e ,

G' IoogdMder 1;4' "

61;4' e 'P;Jrts Inltialty QJI C7'1~sl:t. SH the ~rllCticm,

Matirlallltey;C-cherry. Sf-birch plywood. Suppllel: Dooble·facl!d tape, spray ad~i~. pefl~-nen( I:I I ~ck felt-tip mar\(er. Blltde Ind bit: Stac~ a'.1oos«. r For~tnerb lt.

Source Flower .rnnger: Bladpewterflanged fIowe< ~naflger r.o, t58914. $7.95 ea,CalI Paaard Woodwofts, 800.()B3-8876, or go to pad:.ardwoodwor\s.com.

Cutting Diagram o D F G

c B B

A A V. x 5'1.1 x 24' Cherry (.3 cd ft.)

,,---'---------,

ends

®

'10 x 12)( 12" Birch plywood

Area colored with permanent

black fell-tip marl<er

Mitered ",,'c----I\S~

8 Examine all Ihe parts, and finish­sand where needed. Do not sand the

black-colored areas. Apply a clear finish. (We applied three coats of satin pOlyure­thane from a spray can, sandingbetween coats with 220-grlt sandpaper.)

woodmagildne.com

Tray OIIer1ap marks (Marl< on bolh ends)

Learn more about Ikebana For informa tion about the basic styles of ikebana and how to create them, as well as a plan for an additional ikebana vases go to woodmagazine.com! ikebana .

9 1nsert the flower arranger, cradling the flange in the divider (F, G)

notches, and fill the tray with pebbles. (we purchased a bag of polished pebbles from a crafts supply store, and picked out the black ones.) Now fill the arranger

with water, and artfully position a hand­ful of long-stemmed blossorn.~ . •

Written by Jan SVf!{ with Chuck Hedlund Project d~l.i9"; Khi" Boyle Illulttalioru: Rounn" LeMoine; lorna Johnson

69

V~h~; may

be filled with the finest cutting and

shaping tools moncy can buy, but if you don't

measure and mark precbely, your prOject parts will fit like a

cheap suit. Perhaps that's why woodworking catalogs offer page after

page of products promising to make you a more accurate woodworker. To help you sort it all out, here are the marking and measuring tools we find essential, plus some that are just darned useful.

First make sure you have the basics Before you fill your drawers with fancy gadgets, you need a handful of high­quality marking and measuring devices. The five items shown above may not be flashy, but you'll reach for them nearly evcry day.

o 6" and 12" steel rules Look for a matte or salin finish with etched markings (rather than stamped) for accuracy and readability. Increments should go down to at least 1/32". Buy one with a combination-square head and you'll multiply its value at least threefold by adding the abi lity to check and mark perfect 90° and 45° angles.

f) Folding rulll! POT longer dimensions, a 6' folding wooden rule provides more rellable accuracy than a retractable steel tape

70

Must­~e

Measuring k Marking Tools

After months of testing, these super·accurate layout helpers earned a permanent place in the WOOD® magazine shop.

measure because there's no hook on one end that can get damaged and affect the accuracy. Get the kind with a sliding extension for dead·on measurement inside cases and boxes.

~ 4n or 6" machinist square Ideal for tool SClup and for marking crosscuts preCisely, it slips easily into an apron pocket. Good thing, too, DeGl.me you'll reach for this more often than you might think.

o Sliding bevel gauge This Simple devlce performs for any anglc what a combination square does for 90° and 45Q

, making transferring or duplicating that odd angle foolproof, without even havi ng to knm\' the angle.

CD Mechani(01l pencil or marking kntfe Measuring to a gnat's backside means lit­tle if your old carpenter's pencil makes a wide swath. A marking knife scores razor­thin lines, and a mechanical pencil's thin mark is consistent and predictable.

Now add to your arsenal with these handy helpers Once you have the basiCS covered, you can expand your collection of marking and mea~uring tools. To separate the gimmich from the "gotta haves," we bought several hundred dollars worth of these temptingt<xJ[s and tried them out. Here are the keepers.

o 4" double square Take the hest features of a combination square {easy adjustability and measure·

ment markingsj, mix in the best features of a machinist square (precision and pocket portability), and you'll sec why we like a 4' double square. The blade slides through the body for gauging reveals on cabinet doors or for setting up saw blades and router bits, without being cumbersome like a full-size combo square. S31.50 ( L~ valley, 24NOS.Ol)

& 12" adjustable hook rule Like the hook on the end of a retractable tape measure, the one on the end of this steel rule makes it easy to illeasure from an overhanging edge. The hook can be repositioned along the end of the rule to work with thin materials; to reach over a routed edge, as shown; or you can remove it completely if you like. Four scales (one on each edge, front and back) let you choose incremental markings from Ii" to Y64", depending on hOY>' acCu­rate you want to bt'. $22.50 (Lee Valley, 24NOB.l1)

o Ruler Stop We use stopblocks on the tablesaw, router table, and drill press practically

Sources You'll find thlC' "basics' at many retailers and in catalogs, including the ones listlC'd blC' low. Sour<:lC's for thlC' othlC'r products arlC' listed at the end of lC'a<:h dlC'scription. Garr~U Wad~, 800-221·2942, garrettwade.com L •• Valley, BOO·871·8158, leevalk'Y-wm Mcfeely's, 800·44)·7937, mcfeely5.Com MLCS, BOO·533-9298, mkswoodwOfking.<:om Rockier, 800·279·4441, rockler.com Woodcraft, 800·225·1153, woodcraft.<:Om

WOOD mag.:.zine NOVEmber 2007

every day In the WOOv. magazine shop to emure multiple match ing cuts or evenly spaced holes. Why wouldn't you want that same reliable repeatability when marking and measuring? The dovetail slot In th is handy add-on grips virtually any steel rule up to 1¥W" wide. We put a Ruler Stop <It each end of a 12" rule and flipped It end for end as we marked a series of cabinet door handles 2" up from the boUom (flIp!) and t " in from the edge. Garrett Wade, S19.9S (16R01 .l 0)

o Venta$. Miter Hook TIlt.' toughest measurement to make accurately has to be the short length (Of heel) of a mitered workpiece, such as the inside dimensions of a picture frame o r window casing. Verltas' MUer Hook makes this previously formidable task foolproof by giving you a solid place to hookyouf retractable steel tape measure. Steel pins bite into the end grain, and rare-earth magnets keep thl' tape from coming unhooked from the hook. As a bonus, stepped edges around the Miter Hook act as IAI" and Y." reveal gauges for perfect placement uf moldings. S12.9S (Lee Vall ey, OSN37.01 )

4D> Quick Comers We've a ll done it: To marl.. a radius on the corner of a workpiece, you pull out a coin (or soda can, or glue bottle, or roll of masking tape, aT ... ) and trace around it. It's tough, though. to locate that tem­porary temptate peTfectly on the rorner. Quick Corners transparent templates self-index to any square oorner for mark­Ing precise radii every time. We found the yellow template, for marking convex curves from Y.l" to 2" in ~. increments, the most useful. The ~t also includes templates for /,:oncave radII, chamfered corners, and cunvex radii up to 6". S20 (McFeeIY'5, Rockie r, Woodc: ridt)

2 .. ~ .. .. ... ..

CD Universal Angle Guide When you need to mark a known angle (and not merely copy or match one), you can't beat the precision of this multi·function tool. Although spcndy. its super-fine la~r-etched markings pro­vide a dt'ad-on reference for any angle from O~ to 1800 In ~o Increments. Use it to set your miter gauge or sliding ht'vd gauge, as shown at right. Either end of the Universal Angle Guide also can be used to set router bit and saw blade height, but we found the flnc ma rk ings difficult to read for this purpose. MasterGage, S66 (888-893·8300, maslergage.c:om)

o 9 " protractor square This oversize b('VeJ gauge picks up where your pockeH.iZ(" model leaves off. For transferring angles from an odd-shaped piece to the milcTSaw (as shown) 01 to your tabJesaw miter gauge, the long blades of a protractor square provide plenty of bearing surface to ensure pre­cise setup. Thlsdevicedoes have a degree scale that you could use to set specUic angles, but the small, closely spaced markings are difficu lt to r('ad. S20 (lee Valley, Wood c:raft).

71

M "king a screwdriver with a custom handle is a project SO easy and useful that evety turner

,hould make one. You can usc anything from highly figured stock to common shop scraps. To jazz It up, we laminated a turning blank from maple and cherry.

1 Gather the materials

For this project, you'll net>d the materi­als sho ... m at rigllt. La minate the 1~xH.)(6" turning blank from one V.xl¥.x6' anti two hoxll'4x6" pieces of stock. To make the turning template, phOt.f)COPY the Screwdriver Handle Pill­tern on the WOOD Patternsw hueTt. Adhere the pattern to cardboard with spray adhcsivc, and cut it to shape with a crafts knife. See Source on page 74 for the screwdriver hardware.

72

TEMPLATE Insert

Ft-rrule

SCREWDRIVER KIT

'.

Watch a FREE two~part video on turning thj~ project at woodmagaz.ine.com/vldeos.

1 ~)( 1 '%)(6"

LAMINATED

WOOD m ayulne NO'\I~mtM:r 1007

Tools: Drive center, drill chuck, ~. brad-point drill bit. Speed: 500 rpm.

Find the l:enters of the blank ends, and mark them with a center punch. Then mount the drill chuck with a h" brad­point bit in the lathe headstock, and the lathe drive center in the tailstock. Mark a drilling depth of 3rt" on the bit with

masking ta~. Next mount the blank between the tip of the brad­point bit and the drive center. Now, holding the blank with your left hand to keep it from spinning, turn on the lathe, advance the tailstock quill with your right hand, and bore the hole, as shown at right.

o Mount the turning SQuare between the dnll bit arld drive center.

10/. x , ¥. x 6" turning square

~~~~£=~~~~~~J ---. -j T'~;9"~IOC_k~~", .Advance the lailstock quill

L.!-;;.::::":,.. ... --.... Drive center

Tools: Drive (enter, cone center, spind le roughing gouge, parting tool, calipers. Tool rest: Center. Speed: 2,000 rpm.

Install the drive center in the headstock, and the cone center in the tailstock. (If you don't have a conI! center, see the Shop Tip, "ext page.) Mount the blank between centers. inserting the cone cen­ter into the~· hole. Then use the spindle roughing gouge to turn the blank to a IY."-dia meter cylinder.

ferrule. Now make overlappIng cuts with a parting tool, forming a tenon the same length as the fer­rule and slightly larger than the inside diameter. Check the tenon diameter with calipers, as shown at right. Remove the blank from the lathe. Using a mallet and a wood scrap, drive the ferrule onto the tenon. toa 1:V'-diam. cylinder.

Measure the length of the brass ferrule with calipers. Then tramfer this mea­surement to the tailstock end of the blank (the end with the ~. hole). Mea-

Drive '-r",ocenter r

Tools : Parting tool, spindle roughing gouge, ¥eo spindle gouge. Tool rest: Parting tool, roughing gouge: center; spindle gouge : sl ightly below center. Speed: Turning, 2,000 rpm; sanding, 1,000 rpm; finishing 3,000 rpm.

Remount the blank between centers. Using the template as a guide, mark the critical diameters on the blank. Make gauging cuts with a parting tool. Then usc a spindle roughing gouge, as shown above right, and spindle gouge to shape

stopped, we applied several coats of mint!ral oil. Then with the lathe running, we burnished the surface with a paper towel.) Now use a parting tool to separate the handle from the waste. Note: A c1ath rag used to apply a fin­hll call get caught on the tumj"g piece and cause injury_ Always use a paper t(JWt/, which tears ftsnag,~d.

the handle, leaving a ¥t6"-dlameter neck connecting the handle to the waste. Don't worry when making cuts close to the brass ferrule. The high-speed steel tools will not be damaged if they graze

~''''''~Ih'' 00;1"," dn,-",.."~,, and make gaugillll cuts.

the soft hrass. Finish-sand the handle, Drive

and apply a clear finish. (With the lathe

woodm.glirltMi.com

CElnter

U' Sh"po the handle. • Finish-sand, and apply a clear finish.

73

SHOP TIP Convert a cup to a cone Most lathes come factory-equipped with a tailstock live cup center. But to hold a blank with the center drilled away, like the one in this project, a cup center won't work. You'll need a cone center. Rather than buying one, here's how to make a cone-shaped cap for your live cup center.

shown below left. Reverse the block, gripping the tenon in the four-jaw chuck. Now finish turning the cylinder.

Install a d rill chuck into the tailstock quill, and into the chuck, a Forstner bit sl ightly larger than the outside diameter of the live cup center. Advance the quill, and bore a l "-deep hole into the cylinder. Then, sta rt ing 11f4" from the end of the blank, use a skew chisel to form a 45° cone, as shown be/ow center. Part the cone from the waste held in the chuck. Now slip the cone over the live cup center and use it to hold the handle blank, as shown below right.

First cut a 2x2x 3- block of hardwood. Then install a four-jaw chuck onto the head-stock spindle, and grip the block with the chuck. Use a spindle roughing gouge to turn as much of the block as possible to a 2" cylinder. Next use a parting tool to turn a lW-diameter tenon Y4" long on the tailUock end, as

2)( 2)( 3' turning square Four·Jaw chock tI.,,,,,,, truing lha blank.

Four-jaw chuck • Bore a recess lor the Ctlp cenler. Four-}a.w chuck

74

Place the Insert plain end up (the end withUlJt the slots for the bosses on the screwdriver shaft) onto a hardwood scrap on your workbench. Position the handle hole over the Insert, and tap the handle onto the insert with a dead-blow mallet, as shown at left. Drive the insert flush with the end of the ferrule. Finish-sand the handle where it was parted from the

Bit

~.

W,IItf"fl by Jln 5nc with Briln Simmons P,ojKt dtlign: Koo~ln Bo"l~

00'"

IIlultrltlom: Ronnne L.Molne; Lo.nl Johnson

waste, apply mineral all. and burnish. Snap the double-ended screwdriver bIts Into the shaft, and dick the shaft into the handle, as shown below . •

Source Scrl'!wdrivf!r hllrdw.re kIt: 4-in·l 5<rewdrivf:" Turning Kil no. 37707, $6.79. Rocklef; 800-279-4441, rodder.com.

WOOD magulne No¥ember 2007

, ' .... • •

•

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• SIIap. mul"pl. _Ides per palll • '"00" 'rom 500+ PaHe" .. 1 • I'SIC FREI 30.Day

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"'t\lU CAN MAKE A GOOD LMNG MAKING MOLDING WITH A WOODMASIER~ "My partner and I malt4!' custom moldings, flooring, wainscoting, mantles and more. In 1-1/ 2 days, we surfaced 2,500 board feet of hickory. Our tMl famNIes are making a pi livilg. 1f )(IU hao.oe a v.oodmasrer and a table saw. )OU can make II ~ IMn& malQng molding."

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C!rcle No. 1820

76

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS • Omam~nts are 3MI' to 4W high . • Materials needed: W medium-demity

fiberboard core plywood (we used birch and cherry), construction paper, safe-release masking tape, spray adhesive, crafU adh~sive, .025" brass, decorative cord.

• Choose from seven full-sire patterns on the WOOD PcJftf'rns. insert.

Skill Bullde .. • learn the basin of stack-cutting in

wood and $Oft metal, and how to make scrollsawn inlays.

H t!rt!' ... the ba~ic recipe for making two identical holiday ornaments and matching greeting cards in

one shot. The trick: Stack-cutting bun­dled layers of plywood yields two or more items from one sawing. Slipping In a couple layers of colored paper reaps additional dividends.

STEP 1 Cut two ornament blanks from '/~" bitch MDF-core plywood and twoS><S" pieces of colored wnstruction paper or card stock, and stack them together. Not~: MDF-core plywood flnsurfl5 smoother void·free edges and a uniform c%r for a lu!trer overall/oak than ply·corf! plywood.

STEP:Z Tightly wrap the Hack with ufe· releue Iblue) molsking tape.

STEP] Make two photocopies of the ornament p.lttern of your choice on the WOODParferns.lnsert, and adhere ooe with spray adhesive to the stack.

STEP 4 Using your drill press, drill If,," or 160 blade start holes for the inside cuh. For the best appearance ofthe paper cutouts you'll use on the greeting card, drill the hole at a corner of each (utout.

STEP S Make the inside cuts with your urollsaw and a.l (lOtpi) bladt>.Cut a ar..tul, continuous path (no backtracking) along the pattern lines. As you (omplete each inside cut, carefully remove tht> plywood waste and paper. Organize tht> papt>t cutouts on the second pattern. Now cut the perimeter. To keep the plywood and paper sandwich togt>ther and tht> papt>r layt>rs from shifting, make a continuous cut.

STEP 6 Separate the ornaments and paper outlines. and rem aye the muking tape and pattern. Flnish·sand the ornaments, remoying any fuzzy edges. Drill hanger holes, where shown on tnt> pattt>rn.

STEP 7 String the ornaments on a thin wire between uprights, and apply a clear finish. (We sprayed on satin lacquer.) With the finish dry, tie a loop of decoratlye cord through each hanger hole.

STIP 8 To make the greeting card. cut a 7xl0" piece of colored paper and fold it in h~lf to 5)(7". Then adhere one paper outline and contrasting Infill pieces to the front of the card. (We used Elmer's Craft Bond Photo Stik adhesiye.) Discard the Infill paper for the bow, lelllng the green background show through. For the example shown, you'll haYe two candy cane ornaments and two cards, one with a red outline and white Infill ,.nd the other with a white outline and red Infill.

STEP 9 Write your greetings on the card. If desired, add glitter decoration. (We adhered glitter with an Elmer's Craft Bond Memory Book Glue Pen.) tnsert tht> ornament Into the card. slip them into ao enyelope, and mail. (B..toremaillng.ch .. k with your post office for the necessary postage.)

woodmIlQulrK'.(om

JiHiI' Sx5" red

construction pape'

liW"

Masking tape

(iwn

'1.x5 x5"

) Plywood and paper Slack.

Pattern

SIad<

('Hi' (

77

* * * VARIATIONS ON THE THEME * * * Try a different angle for inlay

Instead of a fretwork ornament, you can make an inlaid one by stack.cutting two contrasting-color species and filting the cutouts of one into the outline of the other. Using this method, you'll get one ornament from each two-piece stack.

To eliminate the saw kerfs, simply tilt the scrollsaw table. This turns the cutouts into tapered plugs for an airtight fit between the parts. The thinner the blade you use, the less you'll have to tilt the scrollsaw table to make the cutout and outline surfaces tlush, and the better the ornament looks from both sides. (The #2 blade we used needed only a 30 tilt.) With a slow feed rate and careful cutting, you can use this technique on almost any pattern, but you'll get the best results on desigm with large, less-intricate cutouts like the tree, candy cane, and snowman. Here's how to modify the basic stack­cutting recipe.

In Step 1, use one piece of birch-veneer plywood and one piece of cherry-veneer plywood. Position the veneer color you

INLAY VARIATION: STEP 1

Cherry-veneer MDF-core plywood

lor the oulline

want for the outline on the bottom and the infill on the top [Inlay Variation: Step 1 above]. Make an extra plywood and paper sandwich from scrap for testing the tilt of the scrollsaw table. Proceed as instructed in Steps 2 and 3.

Before drilling the blade start holes in Step 4, draw a 1 "-diameter circle on your test sandwich, tilt your drill-press table r, and with the ccnter of the circle downhill from the bit, drill a blade start hole at the edge of the circle. Tilt the scrollsaw table 30 and cut the circie, keeping the center downhill from the blade [l nlayVarilition: Step 4a below left). Remove the cutouts and fit the top cutout into the hole in the bottom plywood layer (Inlay Variation: Step 4b below righl]. The surfaces of the cutout and the bottom layer should be flmh. If the cutOl!t protrudes from the surface of the bottom layer, decrease the table tilt. If the cutout drops below the surface of the bottom layer, increase the table tilt. With a satisfactory fit, adjust your drill-

Birch-veneer MDF-core plywood

for the imill

Construclion paper

press table to match the tilt of the scrollsaw table, and drill blade start holes for the ornament inside cuts with the center at each cutOlJt on the downhill side of the bit. (Drill toward the center of the cutout.)

Moving to Step 5, make continuous inside cuts keeping the center of the cutout on the downhill side of the blade. (The! perimeter of the cutout slopes inward all around.) The tilted table may cause the blade to drift to the uphill side of the pattern line when turning outside corner5. Compensate by slowing your feed rate and applying slight pressure against the downhill side of the blade. Organize the top plywood layer and paper cutouts on an extra pattern. With all the interior cuts complete, return the scrollsaw table to the 900 position, and make the continuous perimeter cut. Then go on to Steps 6 and 7. Before finishing, glue the top layer plywood cutouts into the openings in the bottom layer plywood outline.

INLAY VARIATION: STEP4a Make a tut(Utout. INLAY VARIATION: STEP 4b Tut th" fit.

Centerline of "~'" ?~,~, do'Nnhllllrom

Test cutout

" 78

112 (20 tpi) blade

p'""'<><"''''1 paper stack

Top layer cutout

Cutout protrudes: Decrease tilt angle.

Bottom layer !

Cutout recessed: Increase till angle .

Top layer cutouts

Cutout flush: Correct tilt angle.

WOOD magazine NO\'~mb<'r Z007

* * * VARIATIONS ON THE THEME * *' * BRASS VARIATION: STEP 1

Add a touch of brass

When scrollsawing thin soft metals, such as brass, copper, and alum inum, you must sandwich t he metal between scraps of plywood or hardboard to keep the blade from catching the edges and distorting the workpiece. You usually discard the metal cutouts and all the

woodmagll:tine.com

wood, but a simple change to you r stack yields two wood ornaments, one b rass o rnament, and paper cutouts for three g reeting cards. Here'~ how.

In Step " sandwich one 5xS" piece of . 02S0·thick bras5 and three sheet s of colored paper between th e p lywood ornam(>nt b lanks [Bran Vjlriation: Step' aboyel Then simp ly tollow the remaining steps, cutting the omament with a #2

CX>,"lruolioo paper

.025"-thick brass ornament blank

blade and the 5aw runn ing at high ~peed. When you remove the brass ornament from the stack, sand it to a uniform satin she€n with a 320-grit sanding sponge, and spray-finish it along w ith the plywood ornaments .•

In m~mory of Pat Stouffll'r. dll'algMr D«lI'mbu 17, 1948- MilY 20. 2007 Written by 'iln Svu with K.vln Boyl 11' I rlv~tration~; Houn ..... LII'MoInll' ; LornA JohnKln

79

3 HP Sliding Table Saw MODEL 10.110

-Accepts 29/32" Dado - 54-Rip c.p.,clty

• 49- Sliding ~ge • Magnetic Sump Switch

• 518" Arbor • CtO$$cut Fence

Make one for yourself and a dozen for gifts.

IIMAKING THE LAMI NATION THE GROOVES

DADOING ACCENT STRIPS

so

. .--::::;;~~~

Note: After laminating the parts, JOint and plane the blank to H~)(lW.

ElCUTIING THE MEDALLIONS

'clI~=}-_-W round·overs along all edges and ends

Turn your cut-off scrap into attractive key chains that will leave you r friends and family

wondering ~How did you do that?" Tell them If you want to, but the secret lies in making a sma ll "log" of multiple species; then rutting off slices.

Form a scrapwood blank

1 Select three l:onlra~ting wood species; we used maple, cherry, and

walnut. We also recommend beech, ash, birch, or poplar for the light color; alder, oak, mahogany, or bubinga for the medium color; and wenge, purple­heart, or ebony for the dark. We used 12"-long stock; that's the shortest you can safely run through a planer.

2 Machine your workpieces to the dimensions shown in Drawing' ,

and laminate them as shown.

l After the glue dries, square the blank on your jointer and plane to

Ph " ~lJuare, remnving stock from both edges tu keep the maple strip centered.

4 Us,ng a router table with a 1/4" straisht hit or t<lble~aw with a'''''

dado set, cut grooves into your blank for the accent strips [Drawing 2}. (If you chooSE' the tablesaw option, use blades

with flat-tipped teeth. Blades with beveled teeth typically leave tiny triangular "cars" in the bottom o f the groove.)

5 Machine cherry and wa lnut accent strips (Drawing 31, and

glue and clamp them Into tht.' corre­sponding grooves.

6 AftCr the glue dries, sand. the laminated blank smooth.

7At your router table, rout Ifi" round· overs on all four long edges.

continued un pase 82

WOOD mllgazlne NovemlJ.er 2007

scrapwood Project Slice off medallions

1 Attach a wood extension to your bandsaw miter gauge, and clamp a

stopblock to it %" past the cutline. Use a lO-tpi blaM for a smooth cut. After stjuaring the end of the blank, cut off V.""thick medallions fDrawing 4). Stop when the blank measutes 3" long-it 's unsafe to cut any more unless you clamp the blank to the miter gauge extension.

2 With a medallion slice secu red in a damp, drill a 3/16" hole [Photo A].

3USing the same clamping tech­nIque, rout 1A." round-overs

[Photo BJ on all edges of the medallion.

4 Sand smooth to 220 grit; then spray with three coats of satIn

polyurE'thane. Sand between coats with a 320-grlt sponge. Hang the medallions on fishing line to spray them so you can do all sides simultaneously.

SCut a piece of beaded chain 4" long, thread it through the medallion

hole, and couple it with a connector. Beaded chain and connec.tors are available at hard·ware stores and home centers . •

82

For plans on making a second design, as shown, go to woodmagazine.com/keychain.

WOOD magoulne November 2007

• PlwlSlollfnrln'dI ... PrICI1I __ _

This router table ~> 11 whole new!evel of Pl"easIOOto your 'M"Jodshop. Through <:In amazing ~ of inrloItaWe fearurH. including its t~~\'; inst>ired 5elf-sq\.lariog fence. Precislot'llens CUfSOl". iInd rcmfQrcoo MDF top with E:as~·5lde""' Mk:ro.Dot skirt it brtrl9S new rneanin9 to me words "full-featurec!."

..... , .. _--,-Whether it'S being ttIrdNn into the back of 11 pjckt;p tnK:k on. me way

to too iObSl tt' Of used. to save ~o:::<:!! space in a 5frt3II woodsheP. ;hIs router table IS the rug\led end mobile. SOlution to true pre<:~;O:'\ routing. For tOO yery

firST. ti'11£', naving poftabifity doesu·t mean Qiv!og lA) the pr«lsion and· features qf a fuJI·SiZed router table

~1_A41.IU.

Create Unique Gifts this Holiday Season

Perfume Atomiz.r Gih Sets Imaku. Gilt Sets) 8 S74.4() V,'ue

Impress your friends & family this year with unique gifts created from our easy to mau kits. Choo$l' from one 60 lathe project kits including pens, pencils. boule stoppers. perfume atomizers, letter opener" magnifiers. key chains, toya., candlnliclu and more!

40 Kit Super Pen Meking Starter Set (makes 40 Slimline Kits) ,$595.00 VII/ue Get startsd with this complete set that includes "'"y1hi",,,,~''' to get started making pens for the hol idays.

Starter SfH includes: • Turncrefter™ Pro midi lathe • 40 Slimline Kits (pen & pencil) • Pen mandrel set • 3·pc. HSS lathe chisel S8t

• Preparation accessoriel: glue, trImmer and tube insertion tool

• Rosewood & Padauk blanks • Finishinll accsssories: sanding. wax

and assembly pen press • Pen making instructional DVD • FItEE UPS Shipping wnhin the col1tin",ttJl U.S.

Comfort Pen and Pencil Gih Sets !makes 6 Gift Sets). $91.35 V.lue This pen's exquiSite styling and comfonable grip will surely please anyone on your list

Project set includes: . 6 Comfon pen and pencil sets

In finishes of 24kt gold, rhodium &. black anamel

Turn absolutely beautiful perfume atomizers for the special woman in your life.

• 61eatherene gift boxes - a variety of exotic wood blanks" • set of bushings

Pro/set set includes: - . Atomizer Kits - . leathereue gift boxes - Zircote & Redhean spindle blanks • 318~ drill bit • set of bushings

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Workshop Sam

Fuss-free faux through-tenons Give a project the look of finely crafted through-mortise-and-tenon joints, without the

hassle, by making these practical pretenders.

Sure, through-morthe-and-tenon joiots look great. But they should, given the time you'll need to

precisely cut and fit them. Here we'll show you how to install faux tenons to conceal an casy-to-makc, screw­reinforced butt joint.

First, cut a shallow mortise To rout a quick, accurate mortise, create a template from two pieces of Y-I"·thick scrap. Each piece should be about half as wide as your router base and about 8" longer than the length of the mortise. To mimic a real mortise-and-tenon joint, m ake the mortise length lh" shorter than the part that will butt against the face opposite the mortise. The morthe width will equal the thickness of the part it complements.

DivIde the mortise width in half and make that dimension your dado depth. Then cut a dado as wide as the mortise length, as ~h()'wn IDrawing 1]. Edge-glue

the halv~ to make the routing template [Drawing 21. Then attach a stop under­neath to hold the template the correct distance from the workpiece edge.

Clamp the ends of the template to a pit'Ct' of scrap, and install a lh"-diameter, W· deep pattern bit. as shown at near figM (see SOUTceS), in your router. Adjust the depth­slOP setting until the bit cuts

Pattern bl<

14" deep and the bearing rides against t he sides of the template opening.

After marking the mortise ends on the workpiece. position the template with one end of the opening over an end mark [PhotoAJ . Carefully plunge the bit into the workpiece ncar the center of the template opening [Photo Bl. Then cut the mortise by moving your router clockwise around the opening [Photo CJ. with the bearing riding firmly against

continued on page 86

DTEMPLATE HALVES ATTACH~EO~::::::::::::::::i~~~~~~~~d FOR ROUTING THE DADO :v~'

'r- ~~-o.-, ~4··~ 2' Mortise--L... ~- Iength

Attach with dOuble-faced tape.

E) MORTISE-ROUTING TEMPLATE WITH STOP

Mortise distance

Half the mortise width

Template

Stop

from workpiece edge '-=<,,,......~- BOTTOM VIEW

84 WOOD mAglUtn" Nov~mber Z007

MEASURES • IUS)' 1"'_~0CII0n0I""""'1'9> • High imporT AaS <MokOXl>On wiItI

J\oJ<1s1ip rubber sheI • TOIml*ed SIN sprr.g bladelc, 10119 Uf. o Gr<l<lu<l!.d", 1110", 1/8' r, Crtil

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ITEM ~$'O" o.t09s.6KDA I 15 PC. RECIPROCAnNG SAW BLAMS

, ITEM 40986-71(DA

' ittsburgb • \

VVorksh~ Savvy

the sides of the templiltt' opening. Vacuum out the debris, and leave the template clamped in place.

Now square off the mortise corners uSing a \6" straight chisel or corner chisel (see Sources). Use the template as a guide to chisel dead-on 90° cuts [Photo DJ- Repeat these steps to cut the remaining mortises on each workpiece.

Now cut the te nons On the blank you'll use to make your faux tenons, rout 450 chamfers on all four sides at both ends [Photo EJ, starting with the edges, followed by the faces to reduce tear-out.

Next, damp a stopblock to your tablesaw fence, as shown [Photo FJ, and adjust the fence to cut your tenons to the desired length. We made ours l,i"long for a m()fti~ 1.4" deep. Use a miter-gauge extension to reduce tear-out (Phol0 G], and cut the tenons from both ends of your blank.

Test-fit faux tenons Into the mortises, and sand them until they're snug. After you screw together the butt joint on your prOject, apply glue to the bottom of the mortise, and insert the faux tenon, as ~hown onpaxc 84.

Cap drilled mortises w ith a rabbeted tenon If you're more comfortable drilling mortises with a Forstner bit than

86

-o routing them, here's a way to hide the mortise edges beneath the lip of a rabbeted tenon for a clean look. To start, mark your workpiece to show the mortise ends and centerline.

Next, install a Forstner bit as wide as the tenon thickness, minus 14". Then IX>Sition a drill-press fence so the bit spur touches the mortise centerline, and set the drilling depth to Vi".

Drill holes at both mortise ends, followed by overlapping holes along Its length [Photo HI. Using a straight chisel, cut the corners square [Photo 1], and remove as much of the scalloping along the edges as possible.

To make the faux tenons, cut a blank to the desired thickness and Width, and chamfer the ends, as shown earlier. Set your fence fur the distance you want

the tenon to extend above the surface of the mortise piet:e-J4' In this case­and cut I""" -dt'ep kerfs on both edges and faces [Photo J]. Because you're not cutting completely through the workpiece, it's safe to usc the fence in combination with a miter gauge.

Now slide the rip fence aside and attach a stopblock to the miter-gauge extension to cut off the faux tenon leaving a IlexlAl" rabbet [Photo KJ . Check that the tenon fits snugly within the mortise, then glue it in place . •

Sources P"Uem router bit, V,,'-diameter x Yl'·long bit no. 6509, $14.50, call MlCS at 800-533-9198; mklwoodwor~in9·com. Corner chlHI , Ray II~ '/,," corner chisel, $56.95. (311 Tools for Working Wood at 800-426-4613; toolsfofworkingwood.(om.

WOOD mllguine Novem~r 2007

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Tn ~ EdcnPURE' s)'s\em, C~ClriClty II used 10 ,cncratc infrared li,ht which. in lI'm, CI\'aIe> I vet)' we Mal

Altcr I Irtal de~1 uf .e­semI! aIId development, very dfiClent ,ofTlired heat ebilm· bc:~ were ckvelopro lhat Ull' lile Ih ree untque patented $Olid ocpper heal exctwlgen in o-n t EdenPURE~ heall'r.

Q. How fin a person (ut t il th bulln2 bill by up 10

5(1"" wl lh tilt t'.dtnPURh'QI·! A Tl)eEdenPURE" ... ·ill

hea!.mnmin m1nul .... ~ fu~. rol.l <;.I .. lurn Ihe hUI do"", .. 10 your house 10 ;is 10'" u 50de,rcel, hut the room roo life OCClIl'J'lnlj:, ... il1ch h .. , the EdenPURfe, ",ill 'oc WlInn ~nd cumfort.b!~. The Eden­PURE' 15 j)1Jrtable. \'loon)1>II move to In(llhcr room. it will quick.ly hell that room 1.110 Thi.~ t&ll drl5licaJLy clJIllcauol bi ll~ in a.ome i ... UUICCS. by liP .-. The EdenPURE'IXIIl'Ie' ,n 2 modrlt. Model SOO-XL heatS I room up {O 300 square feel and Model 1000·XL hU15 I room up (0 1,000 ~qUlfC feet.

F..ndn'inten~ ....

The EdenPURE .... ill p;ty fOf 11~11 In .... eeh. lt .... ill put • great dul 01 exira mont) 11'1 • u~ pock.a 8ccIUSCof 10-dll Y" 'pualing 115. oil. propane, and other ene r.y fO~t~, the Ede"PURE' WIll prov ld~ even tre3ICf sa~incs as the tlllll' goes by.

Reade .. wh<1 wt$h c.n 00-tuin (he Ellen?CRElI Quam (nlTlred Portable Healer al a S7!i dl$COUI'lI iflbey orne!' in Ihe nul Jt)d.y~ Pie"e $Cc the Sprt'lal Reade", DiOCOUllI Coupon on this pagr. For those re:r.ders ordenne .(ttr 10 da)" from IIIe dllcOr tt'll s publ ication. ""C reserve the riiht toeither accept or reJC" order requcslS at tho:: discOlint. od prICe.

How it works:

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I

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i

SPECIAL READER'S DISCOUNT COUPON The price "fthe &knf'IJRc' Model 5('X.l-XI. is $372 pl ~$ $17 shipp1fl& fOf a 100ai vI SJ.ll9 Iklivered. The Model JOOO·XL i\ S472 plus 127 s~ipping and h~ndling for a 100ai 01S4'19 Iklivered. People r~:ldin8 thl< publicatlon@el.~" dIscount with [his coupon lU'Id payonl)' S297 cklivucd fOI the Modd joo.XL and 1191 delivered for the MoOc:l 10000XL if)OIl orderwithi" )0 da)Ji. The F.dc'nPURE-ocmes iUlhe (\ecorator coLor ufbh • .:k willi bl.l1'LW wood Kcenl .. hich goes ""ilh In)" decor. There iJ a , Utet hmit of J "nil5.t tbe discouDt price - no u<:epClOll.~ p]ea<e. Check below which model and Dum'ocr you ... anl. o Model SOO-XL n~mhcr __ 0 Model I(l()().XL. ","lIbel __

' Toordcrb~ phone. call TOLL FREE 1-8(1).591.1084 F._t. EPH4695. Place ~r order by u~inll yOU! c..wit cud. ~rlton are on duty 14 bolin, 7 d<lys.

' T" unJeronline, 10i nn to _"',edcnp"~.~om ' To order by mail. by chc<;k orcmdil card. fill out at'lOi mill In this cooj)1Jn. Thi. pmduclcatrie! Ifl()'day r.a!i.fa;:1;oo guarant(e. 1')'011 arc I'lOl tOiaity sahSrltd, your purcbase pnce will be refunded. No ~iom asked. TheR is alS03 one year .... 1II'T.nI~.

i orr srAn. ZI,cooe

'I Cl'Ieck below to B'!lllix!uun(,

[j i""Hnleonj: w\lh.ill to days of the dale of this publblKlrl, 1hrT!:f<n I gel. S7~ di!«:tUlt : I II(! my price Isollly S297 f..-MOOcI5O).XL anu S)97 furModeIIOC().XLdclt\·crcd, i 0 I am "fderinj: past 10 day$ oflhe date oflhl. publicltion. looeflR I pily .'lhippin, and

Ii handlinl and filII pncr totaling $389 f..,.. Mudd ~XL >ondS499 f ... MoOtI lQOO.XL.

mba! is S ___ in; 0 CzJJ [1 ClIed: n Monty om.r (Make dJcd. payable to BioTr:ch Rr=an:h)Of ehut;e " '):

1 OVlSA O MastaCard OAm.~O~

',I ~t~'oo~·==~=.=~===.==.==;~cc~-=-=-=-;,~_;~~ .. ~p~u..::~~J=== SiCnalurt: _ i MAlL 1'0: BI"T",,;h Resca.l\'h Dept. EPH4ffl!i

!I 7800Whi.,pIcAvc,N'w.

Canton, OH 44767 t .. ------ .-----------------------------_. --.~.-~ .. --_ ... _--.--------------'

Shop-Proven Products About our product tests

We lest hurnlledl of tooll and at(~wriel, hut onl~ those thai earn alleast thIN' star! f()r perfnrmanct makeThefilkl1 CUI anda~pearin thi5section. These woodworking wares passed our shop tria ls

Freud delivers above-the-table bit changes and adjustments I've tx:c>n building a new router table my setup, it was 2S lurns to get the hut hadn't decided which router to use collet high enough to change hits. in it. Aftt'! testing Freud's FT3000VCE That's a minor nuisance [ can live with, 3'lo-hp plunge router, I knew it was the offset by the tool's advantages. one for me. It's the first router to The depth control proved unbdiev-combine all of the features I want- ably accurate. With a lJt" straight-electronic variable speed, above-the- cutting hit installed, I routed a groove table bit changes, aod precision depth in a white oak board, changing the control-in a plunge router that will height in 1/~4" increments. After each handle ally bit in my shop. cut, I measured its depth with a digital

The FT3000VCE delivers ample caliper with readings to .U01", and each power, and the variable-speed control time, the depth was right on the maintains consistent speed when I plow I money. r got that same level of accuracy a bit into white oak or maple. Even ' when using the FTJOOOVCE for hand-though it weighs 13 pounds, this router held work. The scale is ea~y to read, doesn't feel top-heavy or tippy-like and depth ad justments ale quick and many 3-hp routers do. simple to make.

I really like this router for table routing, though, because I can raise and lower the bit without a router lift I like being able to make bit changes and height adjustments above the table, but be prepared: It takes 33 turns of the

R3000YC( plunge router Performance Price

FreLid

~Telted by Steve Feeney

***** 1290

wrench to go from bottom to top. With 800·334-4107; freudtooluom

Titanium-top tablesaw proves its mettle against rust

I live In Iowa, where summers are hot, sticky, and dripping with humidity. So I find the titanium-nitrite-coated cast-iron top on Steel City'S 3-hp cabinet-style tablesaw to be a huge advantage in my ongoing battle with rust.

To see how the rust-resistant tabletop compares with untreated cast iron, I moved this saw next to a new 8" jointer. Both got through the winter in fine 5hape, but when spring arrived, I began to see rust on the jointer-and nothing

ss

on the saw. To accelerate testing, r spritzed water onto the tops of both, even making a few small puddles, then let them sit for 24 hours. The result: rust where the water had been. The rust spots on the titanium-nitrite top wiped away with a dean cloth. No such luck with the jointer; it took a special cleaner to remove its rust marks.

This rust-inhibitive feature adds $250 to the price of Steel City's regular cabinet saw (model 35618). Sure, that's

a lot of money, but to me, it's worth the peace of mind knowing I don't have to wax it regularly,

With or without the titanium-nitrite top, the left-tilting model (35640) is a supt!rh tahlesaw. It's also avallahle In a right-tilt model (35630). With the heaviest and largest trunnions I've seen on a 10" saw, it's built like a tank. The large handwheels turn easily and the stops arc dead-on, with no need for adiustment. The Biesemeyer-style rip fence and rails prove durable, accurate, and easy to adjust.

The throat plate has a red-paint finish that's dry hut sticky, and It slows down workpiect's when I push them through the blade. I replaced it with a maple zero-clearance plate. (Scott Box of Steel City said future throat plates wJll be powder-coated to cut friction.)

~TeJfed by Sob Hunter

10" Hp tabII!5aw, model 15640 Performance * * * * • Price Sl,600 Model 35618 (regular cast·iron top) 11,350

Steel City Tool Worf15 877-724-8665; steEkitytoo/works.com

WOOD magaZine Nowmoo 2007

Kit r.rovides inexpensive rou ed designs and inlays For years I thought it would ~ great to rout or carve ornate designs or add intricate inlays to my projects, hut J never tool the time to learn the techniques. Milescraft's Design/Inlay Kit saved me the trouble. With this easy-to-undcrstand-and-use kit and my plunge router, I was routing attractive designs onto surfaces in minutes. I also used the kit to create ~evera l lnlays and their pockets and was pleased with how snugly they fit.

The kit features a two-piece base that snaps together, creaUng an enclosed sprocketlike center. You choose a deSign from the kit's manual, and then insert one of fouc templates (each with multiple designs) into the correct notches, as indicated in the manual. Finally, using the Induded router bits and guide bushings, you rout along the chosen cutout to craft your design, The guide bushings work only with the included universal subbase that fits almost any router. Also inciudoo: a III" downcut spiral bit and a I;"" V-groove bit. So you don't ruin a good workpiece, you'll want to practice on scrap stock until you get the hang of it.

If you prefer to hand-car\le or paint one of the designs, you can use a speCial guide bushing and pencil to simply draw the pattern onto your workpiece and then carve it with hand tools or paint it. •

-TeMed IJy Dean Fiene

Router OesjgnJ1nl~y Kit, modfl1207 Perlormance

Price $40

Milescraft 847-683-9200; milesaaft.(om

89

I#qffiij:la -.----­MW I .... ""' .... e«oI .z. __

Cutting Edge Technology for Woodworkers Tate a look al our latelt proJect.1t'1 the rewlt of yea" of work, IIltenlng to woodworlltn IHle you. Ind then building dte wood tool ~ that you want. d. r"e" tour of ttt. f .. ~.1!Id 1ft "'It you think:

MO '''''' ....... 1.pMO­""",.,ful 115 lIP Mol'"

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Greatldeas forYourShop Right-angle

Router-Table Push Pad Not only docs thl~

simple guide kE'ep stock perfectly

square to the router fence, it also supports the back edge of the routed §tock to minimize tear-()ut. Plus, it keeps your hands safely away from the spinning bit. 10 build It, cut the pieces

to the sizes and shapes noted on the drawing. Cut several extra supports so you can replace them as the Inside end gets rOuled away. For a comfortable grip, rout the edge5 of the handle with a IA' round-owr.

Screw, but do not glue, the support to the- baSt'. Then, !onev.' the handle to the hase. Sufficiently countersink the screws securing the handle to the base so they don't scratch or catch on the top of your router table . •

• -

RIGHT-ANGLE ROUTER-TABLE PUSH PAD

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What's Ahead A peek inside the December/January issue (on sa le November 20)

Mix & match modular tabinet system Combine any of eig~t components to assemble everything from a small bookshelf 10 an erltenainment (enter. (onstryc1ion is super-simple.

li·NliiiM General-purpose tablesaw blades LIn one blade h.Jndle all your ripping and crosKuTting tasksl We tested 30 of the b~t 4{l-tooth 10" blades in search of the perfea dO'h'trythlll9 blade.

Drop-leaf table

Wood joint torture test 2 Wt made dozens of door and drawer ;oillt~ then destroyed them, so rou'11 know which ones aff s\longes1.

It seals two as shown above, or up to!>ix with its leav8 up. Turn the legs or buy them premade. Alld watch for a mat(hing hutch in the Mardi Issue.

Presidential (Din flag This patriotic case holds a growing colleCTion of the new (Dins hoooring US. chief l'xec:utivf'S.

A fresh approach to box joints Here's a twist on ttle traditiolkli tlOx-joint jig. It enabl~ you 10 (I.It intmhangeablf box sides for easy assembly,

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THE POWERMATIC CATALOC IIlcludas pdums. desdp\U'ls and spoc:iOOaltOOS oIlhe complell:l Powo'lTl3tiG lin/! rn ~ machirrefy. CiRl. No. 1882,

WORK SHARP Sharpw YO.l ~91<xJb with the new Vl()RK SHARP_ Clrel. No. 1685.

RIKON POWER TOOLS Manu!OCll.lt'S ~t\' stationa(y .... ~toolo; ~tl')' vlC>iXf;'>'Orl<ars. Clrcl. No, 1670.

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TooLMART INC. M<oIcila. Qc'\\)JI. Porter· CatOe, '''''',<,>\Il<00, B:.ll>.'Jh, Fr&l.ld. Clrcl. No. 1770.

TRITON 2.2!5HP ROUTER KIT, Triton. the Wor1d"s &.It RoJtCf$, Cire" No. 1786.

WOOD-MIZER PRODUCTS 6;Jht Portable S8wmlls Available &1<Ytillg wl!h 1116 LTlO III $3995. Cire~ No. 180&.

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WOODSTOCK INTIiRHATlONAL, INC. SHOP FOX WOOQworlTog t.Wlhes offefinS p:-ofesslomHt • .,,,," qu~ly. Dealer slPPfiej_ Ci",le No. 1824.

Praject .... & ...... " " ADAMS WOOD PRODUCTS Otters ill free ca~ 01 tht)ir stick 00bd I'K:>Od ~ts. C,"=I. No. 1831.

CABINnWORKS LTD. Waf, 800 Syslem5---OlY wdware cr the c:JO"lPlete a:;semtJy Ch~le No. 1843.

OSBORNE WOOD PRODUCTs., INC. A fMa catalog of lOOIe lags. cortJe!:9, ard is!arId 1eQs. Clrcl. No. 1840.

OSBORNE WOOD PRODUCTS, INC. WOOD COf\Ba.S offa- cIassI:: wrbet::; tI'l a brood rar\g6 01 st)ltes Cirole No. 1851.

CARTER PRODUCTS COMPANY, INC. Barldsaw ();.JiOO ktt.~ lias, !rtabiO~-"," 'Judv:;, lind many other products, Clrel. No. 1883.

SAW-JAW SIltely insWis 3rod ~ ornJar &M' 1:;0joo. P\1)O;acts Hf blades. CI",~ No. 1066.

JESSEM TOOL COMPANY Tlla Ori"fl(lI....-,J No_ I Makar of Roul ... Lilts. Cln:~ No. 11i171i1.

UONOMAT USA, LTD. AttordaIJe. ,<liable. pfn &rXl J.>1'11t!::;s m:,';"Ic.'(! n1t-~Cl'S lOr 'NOC(\. Free cltalog. CIn:1e No. 2013.

ONEIDA AIR SYSTEMS, INC. Flea intonnatrve CMa<::<;i ocntoins Q,lSt ocllo}.."1ioo systaJ"rel 1lt"d COI'tpl91A d..ictworil. Clrel. No. 2030.

PHASIE.A-MATIC, INC. COr"rve!1 I·phase eIoctri<J power .. to 3·pI\"1Se: flJ1"l3'ph>!AA eq~\(l(l!~. Circle No, 2052.

RED DEVIL SAND FAST The SANDFASP Peel, S!W;k .\ Sin:l by Rod 00-,. •. The easiest rrosl effoclive Wf1Y 10 u!le ~~ 00 'M)C!<j ard other surlocoo. Cirole "0.2058.

RED HIU. CORP. SUPERGRI'P ABRA8NU Irdustrtll ~Ity S3f1dnO t:#ts, ooses. Nlll.!Ilee!.S III .... t~ pic(!Il 10 soml~. Circle No. 2065.

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HUT PRODUCTS 'Noorj;;, ocry~;:and suppias lor pan at1d gm-.a ('.a~ tll'"nng. CI",1e No. 2133,

PACKARD WOODWQRK$ t'r&e Ca\(j}()g tor VVOOOTURNERS! • - ~~ Lllhc-s, lOO9 3Ild StWIfIS_ Clrele No. 2143.

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Best-Ever Plans for Gift Projects from the editors of WOOD" magazine

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Banish bad band saw vibes

Q . I just bought it '4~ bandsaw . that works beautifully and is

accurate, but it has a vibration-a pulse every half-second or so. The pulleys line up correctly and the belt is tight, so I pushed a wooden wedge between the motor and the saw to tension the belt. That stopped the vibration, but did I do something horrible lilat will cause problems: down the toad?

-Cary Chopman, Hemet, Calif.

A • Horrible? ~o, but tensioning the • belt with that wedge could stress

the motor bearings, Cary, so you'll need another solution.

Belts can develop a kink from being tightly coiled in the saw's shipping carton, lust as they can from being left looped around a small pulley wheel for long periodS. Because it's a new saw, you could solve the problem by writing the manufacturer for a replacement belt. But if the problem returns, switch to a link belt, like the one shown at fight, that doesn't develop such kinks when left in one position. (Order li nk belt no. 52233, $7.39 per foot, from Rockier WoodworkIng and Hardware, 800-279-4441 or rockler.com.)

To install it, just loosen the motoI­mounting bracket to remove the old belt. Then shorten the link belt to equal the length of the original belt. Match the direction of travel stamped on the belt links, shown at bottom, to the direction the saw pulleys turn, and tension the belt according to the saw manufacturer's instructions .•

Arrows show the

98 WOOD magulne NoverT'obef 2007

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Watts the difference?

Q . I purchased a used . tablesaw that has the o p ­

tion to wire It for e ither 11S or 230 volb. My landlord, who pays the electric bill, says that wir­Ing It for 230 volts will use mo re electricity. What are the pros and cons for either voltage?

-Rick Espana, Cherry Valley, Colif.

A• Your tablesaw's motor uses the • same amount of electricity

(measurt!d tn watts) regardless of the voltage, Rick. If you look at the plate on your saw's motor, similar to the one lx/ow, you' ll see that as the voltage doubles, the saw uses ha lf as many amps. For example, this cont ractor-style saw drops from 18 to 9 amps as the voltage doubles. Ei t her way you multiply the comblnallons-115 volts times 18 amps or 230 volts t imes 9 amps-thc power consumption remains 2,070 watts.

So why wire for 230 volts? Look at those amp numbers again. If you're pulling 18 amps on a 20-amp circuit, there's the chance of tripping a circuit hreaker if your saw encounters an especially heavy load, or at startup, when It draws a brief surge of power. By switching to 230 volts, you relieve that stra in on the circuit, dOing you and your landlord a favor.

If your saw needs an extension cord .'i0' or longer, that's another reason to opt for 230 volts. The higher voltage encoun· ters less resistance within the cord, delivering more power to your saw,

As fo r cons, a 230-volt outlet should be wired by a profeSSional, and the breaker box may not have space to expand.

Plates attached to power tool motors w i ll tell you your wi ri ng opt ions, Thi$ ta blesaw motor u~e$18 amps for 11S-yolt current or 9 iIImps for 230·yolt current .

colltinued 011 page 98

WOOD ma g u lnl! ~r 2007

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Forrest Blades Experienced woodwor'Kers know that Forrest blades are ideal for remodeling high-(lnd krtchens and baths.

Forrest blades deliver smooth, quiet cuts without splintering, scratching, ortearouts. Our proprietary manufacturing process, hand straightening, and unique grade of C-4 micrograin carbide are perfect for cabinets, counlertops, and floorfng. In fact, indeper1doot tests rate us ~1 for rip cuts and crosscuts.

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Ask WOOD

Joinery as art

Q. While trying to salvage a • canva~ stretctling frame ttlat

must be more than 100 years old, I encountered a miter joint I've never seen before. What is it called7

-Roy Gaines. Toccoa, Ga.

A . One of our joinery sources • referred to a similar joint as a

mitered mortise-and-tcnon, ROy, or you could call it a twin mttered bridle joint. But the compan}' that pioneered It, Tara Materials, calls it an Interlocking tongue-and-groove joint. The joint was developed in 1875 by founder E.H. Friedrichs for the company's canvas­stretching frames. (It even was illus­trated In a 1907 Frcdrlx catalog shown be/ow.)

roday's version, shown at buttom, hasn't changed much from the original. The tongues in both piece> slide into corresponding slots, creating a frame that resists torquing out of shape from the stress of stretched canvas. The joint also prOVides plenty of surface grain for a solid glue bond, unlike a simple, unrein forced mitered fram!!, with Its end-grain gluing surfaces.

94 WOOD mag.nine NcwMlbtr 2007

DOWELMAX PReCISION ENGINEERED JOINING SYSTEM

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Squirrel-Tail Palm Planes These compact, inveS1ment-cast steel planes, with enlarged SQuirrel-tail hafldles, are ideally sized for working on small projects and in tight spaces. The sole is 3 Jfe" long. Made in Canada. Until December 24,2007, we are offering our new palm planes at a special price for the pair. Alter thIs date, the planes will no lanoer be available as a pair. AalPalmPlane 15Pl 0.10 $36.00 Curved Palm Plane 15P10.20 542.00 Pair of Palm Planlls 15P10.50 $65.00 ~.-.:IN.'I: ~ IP:.rr;o_

30 The (>.n'lI(I palm plane ~. rtu'IOe(ll'rW)OJn_

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Ask WOOD

-

vs.

-Ril il bit Stile bit Combin, tiol'l bit

HAVE A QUESTION? For an answer to your woodworking que~ljon, write 10 ASK WOOD, 1716 Locust St., L.S-ll1. DesMolnes. IA 50309·3023, or e-mail usat iiskwood!ii.WoodmagillZimf .com. For immediate feedback from your fellow woodworkers, post your questions on one of our woodworking forums at woodmagazine.(om/forums.

Nail down the best brad size

Q . I'm looking at buying a 15- or • 16-gaugeflnlsh nailer for my

shop. From my experience, l8-ga uge brads tend to follow the grain and blowout the side. Would 16-gauge nails act the same?

-Ronald Seto, VOfK/eave, Miss.

A • All three nail gauges can be • deflected by grain, Ronald.

Instead, choose your nailer and nail length to suit what you're building and the materials you use.

Divide rail and stile cuts for easier joints

'lb attach wide oak crown molding to a large project or in a room, use a 15- or 16-gauge nailer for added holding power. The tradeoff: You have to putty larger holes from the 15- and 16-gauge nailers compared to an 18-gauge nailer. For medium-size or tabletop projects, use an I8-gauge nailer or a 23-gauge pin naller for even less puttying.

Q . I've seen two router·bit . options for making rail-and­

stile Joints: matching bit sets and a single combination bit. It seems to me that the matching sets are the bener way to go. Any thoughts?

-Greg Perlberg. Chantilly. Va.

A • We favor the two-bit method, e too, Greg. With two-bit sets, you

make both cuts with the parts face­down on the router table. When you rout all the piece5 face-down, you can sand out minor stock thickness differ-

Choose food-safe wood for cutting boards

Q . I'm going to make some cut­. ting boards, but I'm not sure

which woods ale food-safe_ What can I use, and what shouldn't I use?

-Jessy McKenzie, St. Joseph, Minn.

92

ences from the back, leaVing the front profile unaffected.

With a combination bit, though, you rout one profile face-down and the other face-up, Reversing the workpiece orientation this way may require you to sand out stock thickness differences from the front, throwing off the profile at the jOints.

Also, with a combination bit like the one shown above, you'll need to take special care to keep hands away from the exposed upper portion of the bit when using the stile-cutting ~tion.

A • For cutting boards that will hi' • used daily, Jess, stick with tight­

grained domestic hardwoods, especially maple, birch, and beech. The small porcs on these dense hardwoods leave fewer hiding places for foodborne bactelia than an open-grained wood, such as red oak (Bamboo, actually a grass, offels another safe option.)

Lighter wood colors also Walk better than walnut, purplchcart, or other dark woods, whele the color can leach out when wet. That's espeCially true if you use highly diluted chlorine blt'ach to sanitize your wood cutting boards.

To lessen the chance of blow-out, choose the nailiength that penetrates the top piece of wood and extends no

I deeper than 1· Into the piece below. So for nailing ¥.!"-thick stock like that shown below, choose a nail no longer than lW. For safety'S sake, even wIth shorter nails, never grip the wood with your fingers on either side of the nail's intended path.

:~!~,:,"L \ deflect nails.

! Ouch! Blow-outs can deliver a painful su rpr ise to fi ngers gr ippi ng the sides of t he verti(al board.

continued on page 94

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