2 INTRODUCTION TO GASTRONOMY DAY SEVEN THE TIMELINE; WHAT IS MODERN HAUTE CUISINE, ITS HISTORY AND THE ISSUES THAT SHAPE IT? Frenchlaundry.com

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INTRODUCTION TO GASTRONOMY

DAY SEVEN THE TIMELINE; WHAT IS MODERN HAUTE CUISINE, ITS

HISTORY AND THE ISSUES THAT SHAPE IT?Frenchlaundry.com

LESSON OBJECTIVES

• Describe Modern Haute Cuisine

• Continue to develop a timeline of Haute Cuisine, beginning with La Grande Cuisine and ending with Modern Haute Cuisine

• Discuss contemporary cuisine and the interest in ethnic ingredients and their influence on Modern Haute Cuisine

• Identify popular restaurant rating systems;

• Discuss the influence of critics (food and wine)

The progression of cuisine…

La Grande Cuisine

Classic Haute Cuisine

Nouvelle Cuisine

Cuisine Minceur

Modern Haute Cuisine

Avant-Garde Cuisine

HAUTE CUISINE TIMELINE

1. “Do not overcook.”2. “Use fresh, quality products.”3. “Lighten [the] menu.”4. “Do not be systematically modernistic. Avoid a new orthodoxy.”5. “Seek out what the new techniques can bring you.”6. “Eliminate brown and white sauces.”7. “Do not ignore dietetics.”8. “Do not cheat on…presentation. Simplicity instead of fakery.”9. “Be inventive.”10. “Do not be prejudiced.”

**As quoted in Rao, Hayagreeva, Philippe Monin, and Randolphe Durand, “Institutional Change in Toque Ville: Nouvelle Cuisine as an Identity Movement in French Gastronomy,” The American

Journal of Sociology, Vol. 108, No. 4 (Jan., 2003), pp. 795-843.

LE NOUVEAU GUIDE GAULT-MILLAU 1972: 10 COMMANDMENTS OF NOUVELLE CUISINE

NOUVELLE CUISINE

NOUVELLE CUISINENouvelle cuisine does not reject classic traditions, but innovates and advances them.

This picture is from Paul Bocuse’s French Cooking (1977).

Does it remind you of anyone familiar?

Photo source: Bocuse, Paul. Paul Bocuse’s French Cooking. New York: Random House,

1977.

The progression of cuisine…

La Grande Cuisine

Classic Haute Cuisine

Nouvelle Cuisine

Cuisine Minceur

Modern Haute CuisineThe Cuisine of Alice Waters, Guy Savoy, Gordon Ramsay, Thomas Keller,

Marcus Samuelsson,

Avant-Garde Cuisine

HAUTE CUISINE TIMELINE

CONTEMPORARY CUISINE 1950 - 2000

“Ethnic” cuisines become more conspicuous and increasingly popular as countries like America, Australia and England welcomed large numbers of migrants from different countries and cultures in the post-war years. (particularly notable numbers from Asia)

The model of nouvelle cuisine made it easier for elements of other cuisines to be incorporated into the mainstream.

WHY WAS ETHNIC INTERESTING?

The perception of “foreign” food in one’s home country as ‘exotic’

Increased travel, exposure to foods and cuisines of different countries;

“travel stimulated “a growing cosmopolitanism, which made people receptive to foreign foods in general”. (Levenstein, 216)

WHAT DID IT MEAN FOR CUISINE?

Before Modern Haute cuisine, French (French-style) was the dominant cuisine in restaurants. | Guy Savoy, Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud, Jean Georges Vongerichten; all french chefs that have looked to other cuisines, cultures and continents to expand and perfect their art.

“Fusion Food” became popular, particularly in countries trying to stand out in the culinary world as a point of difference to classic French style or Nouvelle Cuisine; Australia, England particularly prevalent

MODERN HAUTE CUISINE

Breaking boundaries of ethnicity/nationality

Development of new techniques

New styles of service

Cooking as advocacy, or as a political act

Creating new supply chains

The chef as a star



Rare: “exotic” foods and new foods, creative ambiance





The chef as a star




Prepared by skilled cooks: new techniques and styles




The chef as a star





Eaten by skilled eaters: who is the new clientele?



The chef as a star






Jamie Oliver, Dan Barber, Slow Food Movement


The chef as a star







Relationships with small suppliers, using local producers and cutting out the middle man

The chef as a star







The chef as a star

The advent of the Celebrity Chef, restaurants are secondary

WHO IS YOUR CULINARY INSPIRATION?

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES AND RISKS OF CHEF STARDOM?

THE REVIEW!

RESTAURANT RATING SYSTEMS

What is the role of the restaurant critic?

REVIEWING AND CRITICISM

Earliest gastronomic evidence was in the early 19th century with Grimod whose criticism was destined for a public audience.

The role of the critic? • Criticism can inform, educate or evaluate and analyze

for an intended audiences

According to Dianne Jacobs (2005) “You help consumers make informed decisions about where to eat.” (114)


Zagat;

0-30 points

Food, décor, service, cost

“Zagat Survey is a business based on a simple

premise – that the shared opinions of thousands

of avid consumers with real experiences are

inherently more accurate than the opinions

of just one or two critics” (www.zagat.com).

THE ZAGAT GUIDE

Tim and Nina Zagat

Revolutionized the business of restaurant criticism;

Unlike newspapers and magazine reviews, Zagat reviews is not dependent on one person’s viewpoint. | 100,000 in 45 cities completes a detailed questionnaire.


Forbes (was Mobil);

0 to 5 stars

“There is a proven, time-tested gold standard forHospitality ratings, and we invented it. ForbesTravel Guide provides travelers the mostobjective, most disciplined ratings for hotels, restaurants and spas in the world”.

(www.forbestravelguide.com).


New York Times;

0 to 4 stars

Sam Sifton:“I was able to sneak in some truly memorable dishes this year: among them, a perfect agnolotti del plin at Del Posto; a tiny piece of French toast at MomofukuKo; a crisp and juicy truffle-stuffed chicken thigh with Medjool dates, carrot mousseline and tatsoi at Per Se.”*

• Sifton, Sam. “Eleven Memorable Dishes, and Not Even a Full Year.” The New York Times. Dec 30, 2009. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/30/dining/reviews/30year.html?_r=1&ref=dining


Le Guide Michelin;

0 to 3 stars

“For restaurants, Michelin stars are based on five criteria:* The quality of the products * The mastery of flavor and cooking * The ‘personality’ of the cuisine * The value for the money * The consistency between visits”

www.michelinguide.com/us/ratings.html).

THE MICHELIN GUIDE

“Famously anonymous”

Does this provide credibility?

According to the Michelin guide, restaurants are rated based only on “what’s present on the plate, not considering interior decoration, service quality or table settings.”

From a guide into an institution to judge;

“little justification yet it is still one of the best selling books in France”


Gault-Millau;

0 to 4 Toques

“Ratings are based in part on the seasonality and quality of the ingredients, creativity with respect tothe national cuisine, as well as inspired new dishes that maintain harmony in their preparation”

(www.gaultmillau.de).

A NEW RATING FRONTIER…

HOMEWORK1) Watch Video “Hudson Valley Foie Gras: The Truth” on

YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kh_wJnQmETE

2) Watch the TEDTalk video “Dan Barber: A surprising parable of Foie Gras” on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvrgD0mAFoU

3) Watch Marije Vogelzang TedTalk “Food Love” on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WZv459bOCQ

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2 INTRODUCTION TO GASTRONOMY DAY SEVEN THE TIMELINE; WHAT IS MODERN HAUTE CUISINE, ITS HISTORY AND THE ISSUES THAT SHAPE IT? Frenchlaundry.com