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2 Culinary Connoisseurs - New Orleans CityBusiness Nolet family has distilled Ketel One Vodka for over 300 years at the Nolet Distillery in Schiedam, Holland. Ketel One Vodka is distilled

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2 Culinary Connoisseurs

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 3

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Past honorees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Culinary Connoisseurs

event photos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Best Fine DiningEstablishmentsArnaud’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Emeril’s Delmonico . . . . . . . . . . . .8Muriel’s Jackson Square . . . . . . .8Ralph’s on the Park . . . . . . . . . . .9Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse . . . . . . .9

Best Casual Upscale DiningEstablishmentsCafé Giovanni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Clancy’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Cochon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Dick and Jenny’s . . . . . . . . . . . .11Herbsaint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Best Neighborhood DiningEstablishmentsBear’s Po-Boys . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13La Petite Grocery . . . . . . . . . . . .13Mandina’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Parasol’s Restaurant and Bar . . .14Radosta’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Salvo’s Seafood and Deli . . . . . .15

Best New RestaurantsHostel New Orleans . . . . . . . . . .16Latil’s Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Restaurant Amis . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Restaurant Rambla . . . . . . . . . . .18

Best CaterersJoel Catering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19LaBella’s Catering . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Best OwnersJohn Besh and

Octavio Mantilla . . . . . . . . . . . .25Dickie Brennan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25Ralph Brennan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Emeril Lagasse . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Duke LoCicero . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Best Executive ChefsScott Boswell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Justin Devillier . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Tenney Flynn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Brian Landry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29Gus Martin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29Jacques Saleun . . . . . . . . . . . . .30David Slater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Best Sous ChefsEmanuel Jones . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Brandon Muetzel . . . . . . . . . . . .31Alfred Singleton . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Heather Young . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Best SommeliersJoe Briand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Best Pastry ChefsSimone Fleming . . . . . . . . . . . . .33Tariq Hanna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Andre McKendall . . . . . . . . . . . .34Laurent Moecklin . . . . . . . . . . . .35Marguerite Riehm . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Best Maitre D’sMichael Juan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

LegendElla Brennan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Lifetime AchievementSterling Constant . . . . . . . . . . . .37Bob and Sandy Defelice . . . . . . .37Shirley Lee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Jorge Pesantes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Published by the NOPG LLC 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 1440, Metairie, La. 70005 (504)834-9292; Fax: (504)837-2258

Publisher and president: D. Mark SingletaryAssociate Publisher: Lisa BlossmanManaging Editor: Greg LaRoseNews Editor: Christian MoisesAssociate editor: Autumn C. GiustiArt director: Alex BorgesAccount executives: Liz Baldini, Jeanne Farrell, Cassie Foreman, Ginger Graf, Coco Evans JuddProduction manager: Julie Bernard

Inside:

COVE

R PH

OTO

BY F

RANK

AYM

AMI

Culinary Connoisseurs

Latil’ss Landingg Restaurant225-473-9380

www.HoumasHouse.com

4 Culinary Connoisseurs

s p o n s o r e d b y :

THE GLAZER’S COMPANIES OF LOUISIANA IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THAT

IT HAS BEEN SELECTED TO DISTRIBUTE KETEL ONE VODKA IN LOUISIANA.

The Nolet family has distilled Ketel One Vodka for over 300 years at the Nolet Distillery in

Schiedam, Holland. Ketel One Vodka is distilled from 100% wheat in alembic copper pot stills,

filtered over loose charcoal, and rests in tile lined tanks until ready. Ketel One Vodka

is consistently named one of the world’s top spirits for quality and taste.

Ketel One Vodka is named after the original, copper pot still, “Distilleerketel #1,”

and is handcrafted in small batches. The alcohol content of this spirit is 80 proof.

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 5

FOOD — FOR MOST OF US — is one of the topperks of living in New Orleans. It’s also one ofthe most prevalent talking points.

When we go out for lunch or dinner, someoneinevitably brings up the new restaurant around thecorner, where they ate last night or where they’regoing tomorrow evening. This conversation usu-ally leads to a string of restaurants being named orhow great their gumbo is.

It’s only fitting we raise a glass to the restaurantsand people who make those conversations so tastywith Culinary Connoisseurs, recognizing 50 pro-fessionals and establishments in the region’s culinary industry based oncuisine, business success and community involvement.

Honorees were divided into 13 categories: fine dining, casual upscaledining, neighborhood dining, new restaurants, caterers, owners, execu-tive chefs, sous chefs, pastry chefs, sommeliers, maitre d’s, legends andlifetime achievement.

Many people are familiar with John Besh, Emeril Lagasse and theBrennan family, but what about The Ritz-Carlton’s cupcake expertSimone Fleming or Palace Café soux chef Brandon Muetzel, whosefavorite ingredient is the egg?

Did you know La Petite Grocery executive chef Justin Devillier enjoyseating homemade tacos? Sterling Constant, who’s been at Antoine’s foralmost 42 years, can tell if a table is out of place by looking at the leg.Sucre pastry chef Tariq Hanna’s guilty pleasure is Little Debbie SwissRolls right out of the fridge.

The people profiled in the following pages are the people who makeour culinary industry so famous, so successful and one of the biggest rea-sons people worldwide know us and visit our region.

In addition to countless hours of community service their staffs provideto the community, they’ve also made a commitment to support our localproducers by frequenting area farmer’s markets and seafood suppliers.

CityBusiness thanks each of them not only for their tasty contribu-tions, but for their commitment to the New Orleans area.

Congratulations to the Culinary Connoisseurs of 2009.•

News Editor Christian Moises can be reached at 293-9249 or by e-mailat [email protected].

Introduction

Christian Moises News Editor

Cream of the Croprecognized forTasty contributions

VÉÇzÜtàâÄtà|ÉÇáto EMERIL LAGASSE

EMERIL’S DELMONICOand Chef DAVID SLATER of Emeril’s New Orleans

for being chosen as a CityBusiness Culinary Connoisseur!

800 Tchoupitoulas

504.528.93931300 ST. Charles Avenue

504.525.4937

Taking CAIRE of HospitalityCongratulations to the 2009 CityBusiness Culinary Connoisseurs!

VISIT OUR SHOWROOM OPEN TO THE PUBLIC - Mon-Fri 8-5 • Sat 9-1

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6 Culinary Connoisseurs

Culinary Connoisseurs2008 HonoreesBest Fine DiningEstablishmentsAntoine’s RestaurantThe Dakota RestaurantAugust

Best Casual UpscaleDining EstablishmentsDrago’s Seafood RestaurantLüke Sal and Judy’sTommy’s Cuisine

Best NeighborhoodDining EstablishmentsBlue Duck CaféByblos RestaurantDeanie’s Seafood —

BucktownMother’s Restaurant

Best New Restaurants5 Fifty 5LükeMiLaNathan’s RestaurantNew City Grille

Best CaterersFleur de lis New OrleansCuisineFood ArtMartin Wine CellarPatton’s Caterers

Best OwnersJohn Besh Tommy Cvitanovich The Tastebuds:

Greg Reggio, Hans Limburg,Gary Darling

Best Executive ChefsRene Bajeux John BeshKim KringlieBrian Landry Donald Link Duke LoCicero Spencer Minch Darin Nesbit Mike Regua Susan Spicer

Best Sous ChefsWilliam Briand Larry Herbert Mike Nelson

Best SommeliersMichael Juan Chris Ycaza

Best Pastry ChefsBeth Biundo Tariq Hanna Chris Newton

Best Maitre D’sRobin Bordelon Vedran Komazec Sergio Lopez

LegendsLeah ChasePaul Prudhomme

Lifetime Achievement Shirley AnthonyMarie Laborde Dalton Milton Shirley Rubin

GOOD NEWSIS WORTH REPEATING!

GOOD NEWSIS WORTH REPEATING!

Contact Monique Brignac(504) 293-9724 • email: [email protected]

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New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 7

BestFine Dining Establishments

Executive chef:Tommy DiGiovanniOpened:1918Price range:Entrees range between $25 and $39, with an inclusive cost forthe average diner of about $75.Cuisine:Creole

Noted for:We’re probably best known for our Shrimp Arnaud, our flag-ship appetizer. It’s basically a shrimp remoulade, but we tookout the mayonnaise base and made it a tangy, mustard-basedremoulade.

Community involvement:We are involved with the Lighthouse for the Blind, and we sit onthe French Quarter Business Association board. We also have astrong commitment to the state and local board of the LouisianaRestaurant Association, whose educational foundation pro-vides culinary education to students throughout the state.

Major milestones:One of the biggest milestones for this restaurant was my fatherpurchasing it from the Casenave family in 1978. He bought therestaurant when it was on the brink of shutting down andrestored it to its original grandeur. We were really fortunate thatthe majority of our dedicated management team returned towork after the hurricanes of 2005. Their presence is what makesthe restaurant what it is. More recently, we were excited to serveas a film set for “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button.”

Most notable guests:We’ve hosted a number of U.S. presidents, including RonaldReagan, George H.W. Bush and Bill Clinton. Presidents Bushand Clinton ate together, and the reception they received wasbigger than that of any celebrity guests we’ve served. Brad Pittand Angelina Jolie have eaten here, but our staff especiallyloves hosting Drew Brees, a real local hero.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:My father. Always has been and always will be, in this indus-try and outside of it.•

— Tom Leggett

Arnaud’sInterview with vice president Katy Casbarian

Matthew Downs, left, and Derek Licerochat over drinks at Arnaud’s.

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

813 Bienville St., New Orleans

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VISIT OUR SHOWROOM • Monday–Friday 9 a.m.–4 p.m.

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8 Culinary Connoisseurs

BestFine Dining Establishments

Executive chef:Gus MartinOpened:2001Price range:For lunch, appetizers range between $6 and $9 while entreesrun between $10 and $20. At dinner, appetizers run between$7 and $11, while entrees cost between $15 and $35.Cuisine:Contemporary Creole

Noted for:We have about five signature items on our menu, but probably ourtop item is the pecan-crusted puppy drum served with either craw-fish or crab relish. Close behind are our barbecue shrimp, stuffedredfish with crabmeat dressing, and Gus makes a mean gumbo.

Community involvement:We do 30 to 40 offsite events a year and help a lot of localorganizations. I’m from here, and my partner and I have thesame philosophy of getting very involved in local events andorganizations and always giving back to the community. Someof the organizations we help out include the Le Petit Theatre,the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, the University of NewOrleans, Mount Carmel Academy, the American CancerSociety, Meals on Wheels and Bridge House.

Major milestones:Our biggest milestone is that we have remained a locals’ place —about 75 percent of our business is local — even though we are inthe heart of the French Quarter. We are proud to play an impor-tant role in the New Orleans and French Quarter community.

Most notable guests:Kate Hudson, Britney Spears, Paul Simon, Sharon Osbourne,Wayne Gretzky and Nicholas Cage.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I grew up in the business. My family owned a seafood restau-

rant, Fontana’s, in West End Park, and they sold out in 1978.I spent time at Court of Two Sisters, then 17 years with theBrennans and then my partner and I bought Muriel’s. I havejust always loved being in the food industry.•

— Tommy Santora

Muriel’s Jackson SquareInterview with co-owner Rick Gratia

BestFine Dining Establishments

Executive chef:Spencer MinchOpened:1998Price range:Between $6 and $12 for starters, and between $24 and $35 formain courses.Cuisine:We serve modern Creole cuisine. It’s a little more traditionalthan Emeril’s, but still contemporary Creole.

Noted for:There’s a couple. There’s an appetizer we’re really known for —the braised pork cheeks with Creole dirty rice. We have a well-known charcuterie, or cured meat, program. We cure a lot of ourown meats. We’re really well known for our steaks — dry-agedprime steaks, all USDA prime meat and we dry it in house.

Community involvement:All of our restaurants, including Emeril’s Delmonico, do ourcommunity involvement through our foundation. We alsosupport Café Reconcile and the Emeril Lagasse Foundation,and we do a lot of fundraisers for schools throughout the city.We’re also involved with the United Way.

Major milestones:Our fifth- and 10th-year anniversaries were big milestones. Wehaven’t kept track of our millionth customer or those sorts ofthings. Between the hurricane and what it did to the city andnow what the economy’s done, we’re just happy we’re stillhere to serve the people of New Orleans.

Most notable guests:Mayor C. Ray Nagin, former Mayor Marc Morial and variousSaints and Hornets players and coaches.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:Probably Emeril himself. He convinced me I had a talent forthe business and that I should take advantage of the years of

experience I had acquired. (I had worked in the restaurantindustry for years but was considering a career change.)Emeril asked me in 1990 to join him in opening his firstrestaurant as general manager, and for me it has been a careerand life-changing experience to be a part of his growth andsuccess.•

— Fritz Esker

Emeril’s DelmonicoInterview with president and chief operating officer Eric Linquest

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

From left: Muriel’s Jackson Square executive chef Gus Martin serves lunch to Roshna and Ed Keen.

829 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans

801 Chartres St., New Orleans

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 9

BestFine Dining Establishments

Executive chef:Pat GallagherOpened:The original location on Broad Street opened in 1965, andthe Metairie location opened in 1972.Price range:Between $50 and $75Cuisine:Contemporary Creole

Noted for:That’s obviously the sizzling steaks. That is a signature thingknown throughout the country. We’ve also been known as a pow-erhouse lunch-type restaurant. A lot of people come here to cele-brate, too.

Community involvement:We donate gift certificates and auction items for schools andparticipate in a lot of the local events such as the Fore KidsFoundation with the Zurich Classic. Other events include Tasteof the Town, which benefits Lafreniere Park, and the DennisLeary Foundation to help rebuild New Orleans fire stationsafter Hurricane Katrina.

Major milestones:One of our more recent milestones was reopening in New Orleansin May. That was something that was needed and something wewanted to do because we started here in New Orleans. There wasjust no way we couldn’t have another Ruth’s Chris in New Orleans.And for being a local restaurant that started in New Orleans that hasbecome the largest fine-dining chain in the country, to be able totake credit from a New Orleans standpoint is a major milestone.

Most notable guests:Everyone who walks through the door is special, but it’s a nicehonor to have a lot of the local celebrities who frequent therestaurant. Fats Domino was here after the storm. AllenToussaint, Harry Connick Jr. and sports guys like Archie andPeyton Manning, Reggie Bush and Chris Paul.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I started when I was 17 and I’ve been here for about 13years. I just love the industry because I have worked with alot of great people and you get to meet a variety of guests.•

— Craig Guillot

Ruth’s Chris SteakhouseInterview with general manager Mike Miller

BestFine Dining Establishments

Executive chef:Chip FlanaganOpened:2003Price range:Appetizers range between $7 and $14, entrees run between$18 and $39, desserts average about $8 and our current sun-set dining special, which includes three courses after 5 p.m.Sunday through Thursday, costs $25.Cuisine:Innovative contemporary Creole

Noted for:The baked oysters and turtle soup are our most popular items onthe menu, but I think what Ralph’s is most noted for and what ahuge part of our business comes from is the private party space.We were originally built with hosting private parties in mind.

Community involvement:We’re really proud of how many local nonprofits, charities andother organizations we support, such as City Park and thefarmer’s market, by buying from local vendors and volunteeringour time over. Our employees are encouraged to volunteer with-in the community and really focus on giving back.

Major milestones:We just made five years in December, and I think our biggestmilestone was reopening the November after HurricaneKatrina. We became a meeting place for neighbors, where theycould go to grab a drink and get some food, spend time with oneanother and be their release. It was real gratifying to bring thatservice to them in their time of need.

Most notable guests:John McCain, Laura Bush and Allan Touissant

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I started out at Mr. B’s Bistro on a pre-graduation extern-

ship, and I have been with Ralph Brennan RestaurantGroup for 17 years. There is an amazing passion withinhimself and his family for this industry and this city, andyou don't find that often.•

— Tommy Santora

Ralph’s on the parkInterview with Haley Bittermann, Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group directorof operations and corporate executive chef

Callie Strickland and Richard Kidd enjoy Ralph’s on the Park’s American Chocolate Trio dessert.

Ruth’s ChrisSteakhouse serversNicole Strassel, left,and Terry Boulliondeliver entrees toFrank Rodriguez andMarcia Sosa.

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

900 City Park Ave., New Orleans

3633 Veterans Blvd., Metairie

10 Culinary Connoisseurs

Best CasualUpscaleDining Establishments

Executive chef:Steve ManningOpened:1983 in its current form, but Clancy’s was also a neighborhoodrestaurant and bar since the late 1940s.Price range:Between $21 and $32Cuisine:Creole

Noted for:Probably seafood, soft shell crabs and crabmeat dishes.

Major milestones:We pride ourselves on not changing. We’re a very traditionalrestaurant. What we do, we do 365 days a year. We don’t flowwith the most current trends. We don’t have a Web site. We’reold fashioned.

Most notable guests:Recently, James Carville and Mary Matalin. We make an effort totreat celebrities like local customers. We don’t put their pictureson the wall.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I grew up in Des Moines, Iowa, came here in 1973 and fell in lovewith New Orleans restaurants. I worked at the PontchartrainHotel, LeRuth’s and Galatoire’s. I always wanted to own onemyself and I got the opportunity.•

— Fritz Esker

Clancy’sInterview with owner Brad Hollingsworth

Best CasualUpscaleDining Establishments

Executive chef:Duke LoCiceroOpened:1991Price range:Our appetizers start at $11 and go to $15. Salads run between$8.95 and $14.95, while entrees range from $21.95 to $36.95.Cuisine:We call it New World Italian — basically Italian dishes as well asCreole,but we but we add a variety of sauces as well as fresh ingre-dients to enhance those dishes. The end result is Italian andCreole food done in a way that is totally unique and different.

Noted for:In-demand menu items include the restaurant’s Shrimp FraDiablo, Cajun angel hair and Pasta Gambino. But the most pop-ular item is Cafe Giovanni’s Duck Classico. It’s a roasted halfduck served with sweet marsala garlic glaze and served withmashed potatoes and vegetables. Our customers love it.

Community involvement:Our big project is the Chef Duke’s Foundation for Kids, which isa big drive we sponsor every year at the restaurant to raise moneyfor things like Children’s Hospital. Sometimes the money goes todifferent types of equipment that might be needed at the hospital,and other times just for things like toys for the children.

Major milestones:I think it would undoubtedly be the aftermath of Katrina.Because we are located in the French Quarter, we did not havea lot of flooding, probably less than a foot. But Chef Dukethought it was important to get life back to normal as quickly

as possible. As a result, this was one of the first restaurants toreopen just a few weeks after the storm.

Most notable guests:NBA All-Star Larry Bird, R&B artist Usher and Mayor C. RayNagin. We get a lot of local politicians and leaders, members ofthe state Legislature and even other well-known restaurateurs,

which is a beautiful thing.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I’ve been in the industry since 2003.My goal was to learn everythingpossible about the business, as far as the front and the back of thehouse goes,so that someday I might open my own bar and lounge.•

— Garry Boulard

Café GiovanniInterview with manager Nial George

Nial George, left,and StephanieFisher enjoy dinnerat Café Giovanni.

Jennifer Henry, left, and Mary Larson share a bottleof wine during a dinner at Clancy’s.

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

117 Decatur St., New Orleans

6100 Annunciation St., New Orleans

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 11

Best CasualUpscaleDining Establishments

Executive chef:Tim SwepstonOpened:1999Price range:Our entrees go from about $15 to $35.Cuisine:It’s Creole eclectic. Right now, we’re doing a filé gumbo with aseafood meat pie. We like to run with the old Louisiana favoritesand throw a new twist on them. We get influences from all overand just fuse them with good down home food.

Noted for:People are very fond of our fried oysters with Creole remoulade.Our best selling entrée is the bronze pork tenderloin stuffed withgoat cheese and pine nuts then topped with a warm tomato bal-samic vinaigrette. We change our menu every three months.

Community involvement:The majority of it is through Tipitina’s. Every year we donatefood for Instruments a’ Comin, a private event that helps chil-dren of city schools get instruments for marching bands. Wealso do some SPCA events and donate gift certificates toschools around town.

Major milestones:When we bought the restaurant in 2005, my wife and I workedthere from the day they opened. We were very lucky at the rightplace at the right time.

Most notable guests:The most famous would have to be Robert Plant. He thought

our escargot was too salty, but then again he’s British. Justrecently we had Warren Riley. We’ve also had Steve Zahn,Marisa Tomei, Jim Belushi and some others.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:First, it was really just to pay the bills when I was in college. My

realm in the restaurant is more of the wine and service aspect.What really drives me every day are the customers. It just bringsa smile to my face to hear from customers that everything wasperfect. I owe that to my staff and my chef.•

— Craig Guillot

Dick & jenny’sInterview with owner Will Peters

Best CasualUpscaleDining Establishments

Executive chef:Stephen Stryjewski and Donald Link are co-owners andexecutive chefs.Opened:2006Price range:Lunch can range between $8 and $18, while dinner can runbetween $8 and $24.Cuisine:Authentic Cajun

Noted for:We’re noted for bringing moonshine to New Orleans. People loveour authentic Cajun food and pork.

Community involvement:Cochon participates regularly in events that support the commu-nity and charity organizations, including our annual CochonCotillion for Bridge House, the Louisiana SPCA’s HowlingSuccess and the Audubon Nature Center’s Zoo-to-Do.

Major milestones:The 2007 James Beard Best New Restaurant Award

Most notable guests:We’ve had several actors, including Cameron Diaz, EwanMcGregor, Brad Pitt, Vince Vaughn and Renee Zellweger,writer J.K. Rowling and celebrity chefs Mario Batali, DanielBoulud, Tom Colicchio, Elizabeth Falkner, Alice Waters andAndrew Zimmern.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:It’s all about the joy of providing delicious food in a comfort-able setting so everyone can escape, celebrate and feel good.•

— Diana Chandler

cochonInterview with manager Audrey Rodriguez

Honeymooners Jon and Ivy Reinecker share lunch at Cochon.

Dick and Jenny’s server AlbaHouston drops off dessert toCecelia Rose Wheeler, who wasvisiting from Boise, Idaho, withher mother Jeanmarie Wheeler.

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

930 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans

4501 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans

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12 Culinary Connoisseurs

Best CasualUpscaleDining Establishments

Executive chef:Donald LinkOpened:2000Price range:Between $45 and $50 for dinnerCuisine:Southern, with French and Italian accents

Noted for:The gumbo. We cure and smoke our own our andouille and tassothat we use to make the gumbo. It’s a real dark-roux kind ofgumbo, and we do that with seafood, duck or chicken, and thenadd the andouille and tasso. There are some things we just can’ttake off the menu, such as the fried frog legs with chili butter,because people love them so much. We also have a duck leg confitwith dirty rice and a little citrus gastrique that’s been on the menusince opening day, and it’s just immovable.

Community involvement:Being in the Arts District, we do a lot with Julia Street. We’vedone a lot with artist Kirsha Kaechele with KK Projects. We alsodo stuff with PhotoNOLA, the New Orleans Museum of Artand New Orleans Ballet. Donald’s kids go to École Bilingue dela Nouvelle Orleans (French immersion school), and we moreor less put on the Fête Française every year.

Major milestones:We opened the first week of October after Katrina. We wereprobably the second or third restaurant to open. Other placeswere serving red beans and rice and hamburgers, and weopened with a full dinner menu doing the stuff we normally do.

Most notable guests:Jeremiah Towers, the famous chef from San Francisco, CateBlanchett, Steven Soderbergh, Tim Blake Nelson and JamesLeGros. Then there’s all the local and national musicians. MayorC. Ray Nagin comes in every now and again when he’s in town.And it’s a who’s who of judges and lawyers.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:One of the great things about this restaurant is that we’re so cen-trally located that we get people from Uptown, Downtown, theBusiness District, tourists, everything. It’s a big old melting pot,just like the rest of the city.•

— Leah Bartos

herbsaintInterview with manager Colin O’Neill

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Chuck Bourque and Melanie Lagardetake advantage of the weather duringa recent lunch at Herbsaint.

701 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 13

BestNeighborhood

Dining Establishments

Executive chef:Justin DevillierOpened:2004Price range:Entrees run between $17 and $26, while lunch can run between$12 and $21.Cuisine:American with Southern influence and a French technique. Wetry to be really creative by not serving solely Southern dishes.

Noted for:We’re noted for having a warm and inviting environment whereindividuals can come to enjoy lunch or an evening out withouthaving to get too fancy.

Community involvement:We definitely enjoy working with the community as often as pos-sible. Last year, we worked with Share Our Strength, whichworks to abate childhood hunger. We also try to remain activelyinvolved with schools as much as possible by helping with vari-ous fundraisers.

Major milestones:In 2008, our revenue increased by 25 percent. Another high-light was opening for lunch in 2007. We had a great demand forit, so we created the menu and it became an instance success.2008 was our first full year of being open for lunch.

Most notable guests:Local and national artists and entertainers frequent us quiteoften — a lot of local notables actually.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:It’s great networking, and you get to meet a lot of people from dif-ferent industries. It’s also a pleasure putting a dish together thatputs a smile on people’s faces. It’s like having a party every night.•

— Nayita Wilson

La Petite groceryInterview with executive chef Justin Devillier and general manager Bryan Hutchings

BestNeighborhood

Dining Establishments

Executive chef:Josh WatsonOpened:January 1977 in Mandeville. It was my parents — Judy and RonaldWatson — who started the business. I worked in it part-time until1981 and took the business over fully about two years later.In 1990,we moved our operation to Covington, where we have stayed.Price range:Between $5.50 and $10Cuisine:It is all po-boys. We have the traditional roast beef and barbecuebeef po-boys, as well as shrimp po-boys. We started doing theshrimp po-boys after we moved to Covington, and during Lentwe can’t sell enough of them. We also make something called theFerdie, which is a po-boy with roast beef, ham and Swiss cheese.

Noted for:It is undoubtedly our roast beef po-boy. If you eat a roast beef po-boy here, you probably won’t find another one as good anywhereelse. We cook our own meat and make our own gravy. A lot ofplaces won’t do that. And there is no fat or grizzle on our sand-wiches — our meat is clean.

Community involvement:We give our sandwiches as door prizes for different events that thearea schools sponsor and regularly contribute to the St. Jude’sChildren’s Research Hospital.

Major milestones:Probably moving to the North Shore. We started out with BigBear’s Snoballs in Bucktown in the early 1970s. I made sno-ballsthere as a kid. Then my parents decided to relocate to the North

Shore, where they opened a sno-ball stand in Mandeville beforewe got into the po-boy business.

Most notable guests:We haven’t had a lot of celebrities. Steve Johnson of the radioteam of Walton and Johnson used to come in here a lot. We havea lot of lawyers and doctors who come in, as well as constructionworkers. It’s a broad spectrum of people.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:It’s a family business. My wife and kids work here as does mymama, sister and brother-in-law. We’ve all been in this businessfor years,and I think you just do what you do best.We really enjoyputting out a quality product and making people happy. That’svery important to us. And after all of these years, I can honestlysay I don’t have anything bad to say about this business.•

— Garry Boulard

Bear’s Po-BoysInterview with owner and executive chef Josh Watson

From left: CustomersKathy Fielding-Smith andJudy Fielding are greetedby Bear’s Po-Boys ownersJosh and Daphne Watson.

Marianna Roll, left, and Alison Mehrchat over lunch at La Petite Grocery.

PHOTO BY SHANNON DIECIDUE

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

128 W. 21st Ave., Covington

4238 Magazine St., New Orleans

14 Culinary Connoisseurs

BestNeighborhood

Dining Establishments

Head chef:Tim SeemanOpened:1952Price range:Between $4 and $15Cuisine:Roast beef, oyster and shrimp po-boys

Noted for:Roast beef po-boy, a neighborhood atmosphere and it’s theplace to be on St. Patrick’s Day.

Community involvement:St. Baldrick’s, the American Cancer Society and the LouisianaPeace Corps Association Christmas in October. This year’s St.Baldrick’s fundraiser at Parasol’s was March 12 with the themeof Be Brave. Go Bald — Shave the way to conquer kids’ cancerand try to raise $10,000. We’re in our eighth year running thefundraiser. My brother passed away from cancer in 1994, andraising money to find cures for the disease has always beenimportant to us.

Major milestones:Being listed in the following publications: Food and WineMagazine for The Go List in 2007; Where Y’at Magazine’s2007 Best of The Big Easy’s Critics’ and Readers’ Picks forbest place to play pinball and video games, best juke box andbest roast beef po-boy; Esquire magazine for the best po-boysin America in June 2006; and Where Y’at Magazine for bestpo-boys in New Orleans in 2005 and 2006.

Most notable guests:Susan Sarandon, John Goodman, Harry Connick Jr. andDavid Toms

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I love to cook. I love the taste of food and I love the differenttastes and variations of New Orleans food.•

— Tommy Santora

Parasol’sInterview with co-owner Jeffrey Carreras

BestNeighborhood

Dining Establishments

Executive chef:Isadore Pilart Jr.Opened:1932Price range:Between $8.95 and $21.95Cuisine:Creole-Italian

Noted for:We’re very well known for our turtle soup and seafood gumbo.People really like our trout meuniere almandine and our dailyspecials, such as red beans and rice on Mondays and liver onThursdays.

Community involvement:We donate food to different charitable organizations andschools, such as Lark in the Park, Jesuit High School and CampTiger. We give gift certificates to Mount Carmel High School fortheir Spring Fling and other events throughout the city.

Major milestones:Reopening in February 2007 after repairs from HurricaneKatrina, which left us under 8 feet of water. We made thechoice to come back amid all the complications of rebuildingand the uncertainty of the times.

Most notable guests:We love it when Harry Connick Jr. and his beautiful wife comein. We’ve also had Magic Johnson, Mayor C. Ray Nagin, JamesCarville, John Goodman and Dr. John.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I just love it. I love the feel, I love the vibe, I love the feel of cer-tain times of the year like Christmas, Mardi Gras and Jazz Festwhen people come back in town to visit their maw maw. I like

expediting, seeing the final product and people smilingbecause of the food. I love that two-hour lunch rush wheneveryone’s working as a team.•

— Fritz Esker

Mandina’sInterview with owner Cindy Mandina

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Mandina’s server Emily Marziale heads for the dining room during a recent dinner rush.

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Parasol’s bartender Sara Valashinas hands a roast beef po-boy to David Easson.

3800 Canal St., New Orleans

2533 Constance St., New Orleans

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 15

BestNeighborhood

Dining Establishments

Opened:1984Price range:Lunch is about $10 and dinner is about $13.Cuisine:Fried and boiled seafood

Noted for:Boiled seafood and our seasoning. It’s not too hot. It’s not toobland. It’s just right.

Community involvement:To me, the biggest community thing I did was for HurricaneKatrina. Nothing was open down here, and we couldn’t get ourrestaurant open. But for 12 days, we used our catering rig to serveup to 350 people a day. People were bringing us frozen fooddonations, and we had a sort of soup line going for first respon-ders and anyone who wanted to eat. It kind of restored my faith inmankind. We also donate to many causes, including the annualToys for Tots drive, the Plaquemines Parish Sheriff ’s Departmentand Our Lady of Perpetual Help Church.

Major milestones:Marking 25 years in business.

Most notable guests:Elijah Wood came in during Mardi Gras a couple of years ago.I think he got the people stirred more than anybody.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:Cooking is something I’ve done all my life. To share ourrecipes with all of the people and to have them appreciate thefood is very rewarding.•

— Diana Chandler

Salvo’s Seafood & deliInterview with owner Sal St. Philip

BestNeighborhood

Dining Establishments

Executive chef:Everybody does a little bit. I run the restaurant with my wife,Joan, mother, Rosemary, and brothers, Wayne and Mark. But Ido most of it.Opened:The restaurant opened June 1, 1975, as a grocery store. We werethe fourth generation of grocers. We started cooking one day,threw the groceries out and kept cooking.Price range:Hot lunches range between $7.95 and $8.95, po-boys rangebetween $5.95 and $7.95, seafood po-boys start at about $8.50and special sandwiches range between $7.50 and $10.95.Cuisine:We have more than 40 kinds of po-boys. That’s our specialty. Imake the best gumbo in the city. In 2003, USA Today printed adescription of the restaurant’s muffaletta. We probably have theNo. 1 fried shrimp in the city. That’s what all our customers tellus. We got everything. Soups, salads, sandwiches, po-boys, egg-plant parmesan, Southwest egg rolls, daily specials and hamburg-ers made with 1 pound of fresh ground chuck.

Noted for:Roast beef po-boy.

Community involvement:We donate cases of hot dogs, buns, etc., to the Jesuit High SchoolFair, and we donate gallons of corn and shrimp soup toDominican High School. We also give money to numerous char-ities and organizations, including Jefferson Parish firefighters.

Major milestones:On Jan. 6, 1998, our flat roof collapsed. We had too much

water on the roof. It rained every day for 35 days. It rained sohard all the walls just caved in. We were on the national newsfor about a month.

Most notable guests:The late Sheriff Harry Lee and actor John Goodman.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:We love it. ... It’s family-run, a team effort. Everybody pitchesin and it works well. Joan, my wife, knows everybody’s nameand their kids’ names. I tell everybody, “We got the best cus-tomers and friends on Earth.”•

— Amy Ferrara Smith

Radosta’s Interview with owner Don Radosta

Server Meredith Boardman runs an all-you-can-eat seafood platter at Salvo’s in Belle Chase.

Joan and Don Radosta dropoff po-boys to Tyler Atkins,

left, Corkey Atkins, BettyAtkins and Beth Webb.

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

249 Aris Ave., Metairie

7742 Louisiana Highway 23, Belle Chasse

16 Culinary Connoisseurs

Best New Restaurants

Executive chef:Jeremy LangloisOpened:2005Price range:On average, $70 per person.Cuisine:I call it plantation cuisine — it’s basically just grand Louisianacuisine. If you were to come to Houmas House, everything isabout creating an atmosphere that everything is grand. Withthe restaurant, we keep it in the same motif as being a show-place, and as a cuisine it’s meant to reflect that. When peoplecome to eat at Latil’s, I’m not trying to show them a historicrepresentation of Louisiana by any stretch. But at the sametime, I do a mixture of both — some things can be very con-temporary, but there is a certain tradition in Louisiana cuisine,and we do that as well.

Noted for:We do a Community Coffee-marinated rack of lamb. We have aunique soup — a bisque of curried pumpkin and crawfish.Those two always seem to be the standouts that have becomesignature dishes.

Community involvement:We host the annual conference for Louisiana Endowment for theHumanities. I do a cooking event every year in Baton Rouge forcystic fibrosis. The owner, Kevin Kelly, is also big into the NewOrleans charity Save Our Cemeteries.

Major milestones:We opened in January 2005, and in March of that year we hadJohn Mariani of Esquire Magazine come in, and honor us as BestNew Restaurant for the country. Random things happened to getfilmed at Houmas House, on the grounds. We were just on “TopChef” for the season finale they did in New Orleans.

Most notable guests:We’ve had a couple celebrities come by: Jennifer Love Hewitt,Jennifer Coolidge, Jerry O’Connell. We’ve done a couple eventswith local artist George Rodrigue where we’ve put his art all overthe property. I can probably think of five banquets Gov. BobbyJindal’s held at the property.•

— Leah Bartos

Latil’s landingInterview with executive chef Jeremy Langlois

Best New Restaurants

Executive chef:Richard RichardsonOpened:January 2008Price range:Appetizers range between $5 and $16, while entrees runbetween $18 and $28.Cuisine:Classical European with Southern influences

Noted for:Stacked duck. It’s a grilled duck breast with a Napoleon ofcrispy potatoes, warm rillette and caramelized onions servedwith a port and duck glace reduction.

Community involvement:I have always been a big supporter of March of Dimes. We alsodo City Park’s annual Love in the Garden event, and we dosome work with the Louisiana SPCA. We give back to the NewOrleans community as much as we can.

Major milestones:Since we just started a year ago, we’re trying to get the wordout as much as we can. When we got our first Zagat ratings inMay 2008, they were positive, so that was a good start.

Most notable guests:Jennifer Biel, Will Patton, Michael O’Keefe, Johnny Abrahamsand Jason Lewis from “Sex and the City.”

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:My background was in nightclubs. I was a former co-owner ofRepublic and general manager of 360 and was always interested ingetting in the restaurant business. It’s an experience totally differ-ent from the nightclub scene. It’s more rewarding in terms of the

overall experience you’re providing your customers. When webrought in Chef Richard, we saw his passion right away for cook-ing. … His passion really motivated us to make this restaurantwork, and we have been doing well so far.•

— Tommy Santora

Hostel New OrleansInterview with co-owner Remi De Matteo

Hostel New Orleans executivechef Richard Richardson

matches wine to a cheeseselection for Meaghan Buntin.

Latil’s Landing executivechef Jeremy Langlois talkswith diners Mike andSamantha Gulino.

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

329 Decatur St., New Orleans

40136 Highway 942, Darrow

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 17

Best New Restaurants

Executive Chef:Marvin TweedyOpened:May 2008Price range:Between $28 and $40Cuisine:I would classify it as a progressive Southern cuisine, but there’salso a heavy French influence.

Noted for:We’re the only restaurant on the North Shore that servesprime beef (top 2 percent of beef in the country). The mostpopular item would be our filets, served either as tournedos —aka petit filets — 8-ounce center cut filet or 12-ounce centercut filet.

Community involvement:We took all of our proceeds from opening night and donatedthem to the Hope House in Covington. We also have a lot ofcharitable donations for St. Paul’s and St. Scholastica(schools) and the Children’s Museum. We all focus on threecharities that are close to us and that we think can really ben-efit the community.

Major milestones:Surviving the one-two punch of hurricanes Gustav and Ike.We were faced with a lot of adversity when we opened. Gustavcame and took out our electricity for three days. Trying tocome back and reopen after Gustav, we get in there and thenhere comes Ike.

Most notable guests:St. Tammany Parish District Attorney Walter Reed and StateSen. Jack Donahue

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:My grandfather. He was very involved with the New OrleansSaints, lived on a boat in the West End Marina, and I spent alot of time with him. He was very in touch with the restaurant

industry, and at a very young age I got a lot of tours of thekitchens of New Orleans. My first memories of cooking are onhis boat. One thing I remember is doing breaded veal for theseguys — Saints players like Danny Abramowicz and ArchieManning. I couldn’t see myself doing anything else. It’s defi-nitely a labor of love.•

— Fritz Esker

restaurant amisInterview with executive chef Marvin Tweedy

Restaurant Amiz executive chefMarvin Tweedy greets customers

Armand Bennett, left, RonMangipano and Robert Mejia.

PHOTO BY SHANNON DIECIDUE

190 U.S. Highway 190 North, Covington

From it’s earliest beginnings as a corner grocery in 1898, to

becoming a neighborhood eatery in 1932, to it’s re-opening in

2007, Mandina’s restaurant has been serving the people of New

Orleans for four generations. Mandina’s has been blessed over

the years with an exceptional staff and truly the most loyal

customers.The Mandina family would like to express it’s gratitude

to the friends and patrons who have been frequent guests over

the years. It has been an honor and privilege to serve you.

Thanks3800 Canal Street • New Orleans • 504.482.9179

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18 Culinary Connoisseurs

Best New Restaurants

Executive chef:Scott MakiOpened:Oct. 1Price range:Tapas can range between $6 and $14, while entrees can runbetween $19 and $23. The main focus is on the small dishes.Cuisine:We serve tapas with a Spanish and French influence and withregional Louisiana ingredients. It has a New Orleans flair.

Noted for:Patatas Bravas, which is a dish of crisp potatoes tossed in asmoky-spiced Spanish paprika with a garlic aioli.

Community involvement:The restaurant has already made donations to local charities,including gift certificates that charities can raffle. To help thelocal economy, we focus on buying local produce and pro-teins, and we participate in a recycling program that enables usto use recycled glass.

Major milestones:Rachel Ray, the national culinary connoisseur, visitedRestaurant Rambla in February to feature its efforts in goinggreen with recycling. The show is expected to air this fall.Also, increasing business and becoming more known in thecity has been good for us.

Most notable guests:Numerous well-known locals have already stopped by.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:It’s something that’s always intrigued me. I like to come in andlearn more day to day and become more immersed in the culi-nary world.•

— Amy Ferrara Smith

restaurant ramblaInterview with manager Justin Pelto

Restaurant Rambla owner Kim Kringlie,left, and wife, Simone, enjoy cocktails

with Jon Drake and wife, Heidi.

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

221 Camp St., New Orleans

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 19

BestCaterersExecutive chef:Evan VensonOpened:1993Price range:Our price range is crazy flexible. We have box lunches for $12per person, yet our high-end, more formal events are $150 perperson. So we really work hard to get to know the client, under-stand their needs, and then we work to match their budget.Cuisine:There’s a passion for New Orleans food, but our goal is to take itto the next level and create something more original. Instead ofjust serving jambalaya, we do a jambalaya cake that has sautéedspinach, barbecue shrimp and a great New Orleans-style barbe-cue sauce on top. We have the authentic New Orleans flavors butpresent them in a way that is interesting and delicious.

Noted for:Lobster corndog. We can’t even explain the phenomenon thatis the lobster corndog. It’s a puree of lobster and fresh creamdipped in cornmeal, battered and fried, served with a passionfruit aioli. The waiters get accosted.

Community involvement:We donate our services to various charities, but one of ourfavorites is KIDsmART; we donate to their fundraiser every fall.

Major milestones:We started out pretty small, and I’d say our biggest event in2000 was 12,000 people for Tulane. That really opened thedoors for us to do a really different style of catering. We also didwork for FEMA, serving 3,000 meals a day in Lake Charles to

people affected by Hurricane Rita. It was really meaningful forus as individuals and also for our company. It allowed us to helpin the very beginnings of recovery.

Most notable guests:We have been privileged to cater many movie premieres andscreenings, such as “All the King’s Men” with Jude Law, KateWinslet and Sean Penn. More recently, we did a screening at

The Palace for “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button,” andwe were very happy when Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie attend-ed. We catered a fundraiser for Obama when he was campaign-ing, and we catered an event for Bush when he was in office.•

— John Breerwood

Joel CateringInterview with president Sarah Hall

BestCaterers

Executive chef:Joe La BellaOpened:1966Price range:It varies depending on the kind of event, butour weddings average about $20 a person.Cuisine:It varies from every event we do. Our clientsgrab a theme and run with it — it could beMediterranean one day, Italian the next, thenCreole another. It’s mostly New OrleansCreole with our jambalayas, muffulettas andgumbos, and believe it or not, our breadpudding is a hit.

Noted for:Our muffulettas and bread pudding. Weprobably sell more muffulettas than anybodyin town because we have a lot of corporateaccounts and cater for the Superdome andthe Arena through Centerplate. That’s sayinga lot, because there are a bunch of places inNew Orleans that sell muffulettas.

Community involvement:For more than 10 years, for every namedstorm, we have opened our doors 24 hours aday, seven days a week to all police, fire,

EMT, parish and city essential personnel tofeed and house anyone who needed it. Theycan grab a hot meal, nap and just refuel fortheir jobs. It makes me feel necessary, and it’sthe right thing to do. More recently, I workedwith Kenner officials and got a boxing train-ing program started at the Wentwood gym inJanuary. We have about 40 kids involved.

Major milestones:We really came into the public eye in 2002when the Super Bowl was held in NewOrleans and we were one of four vendorsallowed in the Superdome. The executive chefreferred us to The Food Network, which wasfilming for a show called “Food Finds,” andthey produced a segment on us. It airednationwide the Thursday before the game, andour shipping business nationwide just took off.We were shipping muffulettas everywhere.

Most notable guests:Kevin Costner, Delta Burke, Julia Roberts,Sissy Spacek, Jack Lemon and Billy Crystal.When they filmed “JFK,” it was a huge expo-sure for us. We did about three parties forCamelot Productions, and it really helpedexpose our business.•

— Tommy Santora

LaBella’s CateringInterview with owner Joe La Bella

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Joel Catering president Sarah Hall and owner Joel Dondis.

20 Culinary Connoisseurs

Several hundred people attended the 2009 CulinaryConnoisseurs cocktail reception April 7 at the New OrleansMuseum of Art. Medallions were presented to the 50 honoreesupon arriving and New Orleans CityBusiness Publisher MarkSingletary recognized each honoree later in the evening. Thesephotos and more can be seen on the CityBusiness photogallery at www.neworleanscitybusiness.com.Photos by Frank Aymami

CulinaryConnoisseurscelebration

Keri Landry, left, and Sous Chef honoree Heather Young.

From left: Mercedes representatives Dean Allison, Christopher Stuben and Carl Keith.

Owner honoree Chef Duke LoCicero, left, and Lifetime Achievement honoree BobDeFelice.

Sous Chef honoree Alfred Singleton with wife, Mildred.

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 21

Legend honoree Elle Brennan with Mercedes representative Jamie Moll, left, and Kathleen Moll.

From left: Bryan Duck, Rachel Whitesides, Jeremy Langlois, Anderson Foster and Cecily Boudreaux. Rob Eisterhold, left, and Cindy Mandina of NeighborhoodEstablishment honoree Mandina’s.

Lifetime Achievement honoree Sterling Constantwith wife, Trudy.

Sous Chef honoree Brandon Meutzel, left, and Executive Chef honoreeGus Martin.

Maitre d’ honoree Michael Juan with wife, Brigitte Redpath.

22 Culinary Connoisseurs

From left: CityBusiness Publisher Mark Singletary with Legend honoree EllaBrennan and Owner honoree Dickie Brennan.

Pastry Chef honoree Simone Fleming with mother, Stella Fleming-Williams.Joey and Judy Labella of Caterer honoree La Bella’s Catering.

Executive Chef honoree David Slater, left, and Saleem Nawaz of Fine DiningEstablishment honoree Emeril’s Delmonico.

From left: Bryan Hutchings, Courtney Dodson and Executive Chef honoree Justin Devillier.

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 23

Lifetime Achievement honoree Shirley Lee, front row middle, with her guests.

From left: Kelly LoCicero with husband and honorees Duke Locicero andRalph Brennan.From left: Leslie Muller, Larry Bridevaux, Pastry Chef honoree Margarite Riehm and

Jeanette Jennings.

Lifetime Achievement honoree Jorges Pesantes with wife, Marta. Executive Chef honorees Tenney Flynn, left, and Brian Landry.

Sommelier honoree Joe Briand with wife, Shannon.

24 Culinary Connoisseurs

APRIL

AUGUST

Book of Lists

3Real EstateList: Commercial Leasing Companies

Construction

10 Health CareList: Diagnostic Imaging Centers

17 TechnologyList: Computer Hardware Retailers

24 Law FirmsList: Highest Paid Executives in State Government

25 Insurance/InvestmentsList: General Contractors

JULY6 Education

List: Four-Year Colleges

13Dining & CateringList: French Quarter Hotels

Entertainment

20 Banking/Financial ServicesList: Credit Unions

27 Oil & Gas ReportList: Engineering Firms

JUNE1 Health Care

List: HMOs/PPOs & Point of Service Plans

8 Real EstateList: Largest Office Buildings

15 Public CompaniesList: Public Companies

22 Insurance/InvestmentsList: Life Insurance Agencies

29AccountingList: Highest Paid Public Company Executives

St. Tammany Parish Business Report

MAY4 Dining & Catering

List: Independent Caterers

11Banking/Financial ServicesList: Bank/S & L Directors

Green Growth

18 Law FirmsList: Law Firms

25TechnologyList: Wireless Telephone Retailers

Tourism

Health Care Benefits September 28

SEPTEMBER7 Banking/Financial Services

List: Savings & Loans

14 Dining & CateringList: Seafood Suppliers

21 EducationList: Private Secondary Schools

28 Ports & TransportationList: Deep-Draft Ports

OCTOBER

5Holiday Party PlanningList: Largest Hotels

Green Growth

12 Real EstateList: Commercial Property Managers

19Health CareList: Women Owned Businesses

Jefferson Parish Business Report

26Insurance/InvestmentsList: Title Companies

Real Estate Trends November 30

NOVEMBER2

Dining & CateringList: Louisiana & Gulf Coast Casinos

Gaming

9 Banking/Financial ServicesList: Banks

16 Oil & Gas ReportList: Oil & Gas Production Companies

23 TechnologyList: Printers

30Law FirmsList: Law Firms

Corporate Gift Guide Advertising Section

DECEMBER

7Real EstateList: Warehouse Space

Corporate Gift GuideAdvertising Section

14 Health CareList: Employment Agencies

21 RetailList: Shopping Centers

28 Year In ReviewList: New Orleans-area Tourist Attractions

Liz Baldini

293-9213

[email protected]

Ginger Graf

293-9268

[email protected]

Coco Evans Judd

293-9288

[email protected]

Cassie Foreman

293-9222

[email protected]

Jeanne Farrell

293-9731

[email protected]

EDITORIALCALENDAR

Your Source for Local Business News

2009200927

Small BusinessList: SBA Lenders

Career Development

TOPTOP Business Publicationin theUnited States - The Media Audit

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 25

BestOwners

Years at establishment:18. Palace Cafe opened in 1991, Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouseopened in 1998 and Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Baropened in 2002.

Community involvement:Restaurants have a huge opportunity to give back to communi-ties, and we are very involved with fundraisers, donated gift cer-tificates, charity dinners, contributions — we just try to do asmuch as we can. We’re most proud of our relationship with theKingsley House. I encourage all our employees to volunteer theirtime there before or after work and help the kids in that program.Last year, we had a luncheon there for Halloween and invitedlegislators so they could see what a historical significance andmeaningful program the Kingsley House is to our city.

Major milestones:We put a lot of effort into being an employer of choice and tak-ing care of our employees. Another milestone I am most proudof, along with my partners Steve Pettus and Lauren Brower, isbeing in that first wave of restaurants that reopened afterHurricane Katrina. We jumped right back in to get this citygoing again. It was a milestone individually and for our com-pany. Four years later, we are surviving and doing well, anddespite the national economy troubles, we have had somesolid first quarters of business at all our restaurants.

Favorite dish:I’m a real seasonal guy, so anything that’s in season. If Creoletomatoes are ripe off the vine, I want my Creole tomato. If softshell crabs are in season, I’m ready for my soft shell crab. Right

now, it’s crawfish time and our chefs are being real creativewith crawfish from crawfish bisque to sauteed crawfish dishes.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I was always close to my father, and growing up I lived a cou-ple of blocks from the family business at Commander’s Palace.

I loved food, I loved cooking and I was able to get in thekitchen with some legendary and dynamic chefs like PaulPrudhomme. I just caught the restaurant bug and neverstrayed from the business. I enjoy making people happy, and Ienjoy the restaurant environment. It works for me.•

— Tommy Santora

Dickie brennanPalace Café, Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse, Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Bar

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

BestOwners

Years at establishment:The Steakhouse came online in 2003, John Besh and I acquiredAugust in 2005, we bought La Provence at the end of 2006 andLüke came online in May 2007. Domenica, our Italian restaurantin the Roosevelt Hotel, is opening in June.

Community involvement:Everywhere you turn, there’s something going on benefiting thecity — most of these things are social charity events. And if yougo to them, you realize we’re at almost every single one of them,whether it’s for a donation of dinner at a silent auction to actual-ly serving food at the events. Besides that, John is always doingsomething outside the city to promote New Orleans. He’s alwaysbeen an ambassador of the city, so he’s doing tons of public rela-tions and charity events.

Major milestones:We went into business three months before Katrina … and Ithink the biggest accomplishment was that we stuck to buildingthe restaurant and kept fighting for it and the city. We believe inthe city, we believe in our staff and our team members and webelieve in ourselves — and it’s paid off, and we’ve been able togrow exponentially.

Favorite dish:Gnocchi is something we’re known for at August, duck is some-thing we’re known for at August and the egg custard withLouisiana caviar is awesome. At Lüke, the hamburgers and friesare incredible, and the Friday special is a redfish court-boullion.La Provence has the beet salad, and the Steakhouse has amazingbarbecue shrimp.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:This is what I’ve done all my life. I started in the industrywhen I was in high school bussing and washing tables. Eventhough I went to Tulane for my bachelor’s degree and theUniversity of New Orleans for my master’s, I found myself

always going back to what I love — taking care of people andbeing hospitable. There are plenty of fields out there, and Ispend my life in a field where people come to enjoy them-selves. It’s kind of hard to beat.•

— Leah Bartos

John besh & Octavio MantillaAugust, La Provence, Lüke, and Besh Steakhouse. Interview with Octavio Mantilla

Besh Restaurant Group co-owners Octavio Mantilla,left, and John Besh enjoyan afternoon cocktail.

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

26 Culinary Connoisseurs

BestOwners

Years at establishment:At Emeril’s since 1990, at NOLA since 1992 and at Emeril’sDelmonico since 1997.

Community involvement:The Emeril Lagasse Foundation was created in 2002 to supportand encourage programs creating developmental and education-al opportunities for children. The foundation has contributedmore than $2.5 million to Gulf Coast organizations including theNew Orleans Center for Creative Arts, Café Reconcile, St.Michael’s Special School, Parkway Partners, Covenant Café andthe Covenant House. The foundation, in a partnership withNOCCA, established the city’s first comprehensive four-yearprofessional training program in culinary arts for high school stu-dents, and the foundation has also started the Emeril LagasseFoundation Culinary Learning Center at Café Reconcile in NewOrleans. What’s important to me is the children.

Major milestones:In 1990, Emeril’s had just opened and became a five-bean restau-rant according to The Times-Picayune. That was big for usbecause there weren’t really any four- or five-star restaurants emerg-ing in New Orleans during that time. I was also very honored to benamed the Best Southeast Regional Chef by the James BeardFoundation and Chef of the Year by GQ Magazine. I have a lot tobe thankful for, and I don’t take anything for granted. I still wake upevery day and work as hard as the first day I came into the business.

Favorite dish:I have always been very connected to the soil and the localfarmer’s market and whatever is in season. We are very blessed forincredible soil and reserves in Louisiana and the Gulf of Mexico.

It’s good to support the local community and local farmers asmuch as you can. My favorite dish right now would be to perfect-ly cook the freshest fish I could find available.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:Besides my education and travel, a lot of my early inspiration came

from working with the Brennan family — Ella and Dick. Theywere very passionate about what they did and passed it on. Theytreated me like family, and they taught me not just about being agreat chef in the industry but about being a well-rounded restaura-teur so I could have a chance to be successful in this business.•

— Tommy Santora

Emeril LagasseEmeril’s Restaurant, NOLA Restaurant, Emeril’s Delmonico

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

BestOwners

Name of establishments:I own Bacco, Red Fish Grill and Ralph’s on the Park and am apartner in Mr.B’s and Commander’s Palace.Elsewhere,I own JazzKitchen in the Downtown Disney district of Disneyland Resort inAnaheim, Calif., and am a partner in Brennan’s of Houston.

Years with establishments:I’ve owned Bacco since 1991, the Red Fish Grill since 1997, JazzKitchen since 2001 and Ralph’s on the Park since 2003.

Community involvement:I’m active as a food service industry advocate and a friend of busi-ness and tourism. I’ve held leadership roles with the New Orleansand National Restaurant associations, the Ernest N. MorialConvention Center, the New Orleans Aviation Board, the NewOrleans Business Council, the New Orleans Convention andVisitors Bureau and Children’s Hospital.

Major milestones:Professionally, opening four successful restaurants and buildinga team of management and staff to operate these restaurants.Many of these people have stayed with our company to take onleadership roles, and I’ve enjoyed watching their growth anddevelopment. I’m also proud to have been chairman and presi-dent of the National Restaurant Association from 1995-96. Apersonal milestone is my immediate family — three great chil-dren and a marriage of 26 years.

Favorite dish:A cheeseburger, fries and a chocolate shake. Of course, I can’thave many of these at my age.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I enjoy building a team and watching each team member growpersonally and professionally. The culinary industry is an

industry of people and I enjoy people. I enjoy making cus-tomers happy.•

— Diana Chandler

ralph brennanRalph Brennan Restaurant Group

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 27

Professional training and education:I went to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park,New York.I graduated in 1995 and spent a year training in the south of France.

Years at establishment:April 5 was our eighth anniversary at Stella, and Stanley, whichopened temporarily about two weeks after Katrina, then closed,has been open for three months.

Previous experience:I worked with the Windsor Court before learning at the CulinaryInstitute of America, Salon de Provence in France and EnotecaPinchiorri in Florence, Italy. I also worked at a resort in Montanaand Restaurant Massa in Tokyo.

Community involvement:I am on the French Quarter Business Association board and theboard of directors on the committee of Strategic Planning andDevelopment.

Noted for:Most people tell me how incredibly imaginative it is as far as thecreations, the flavor and the surprises. It’s just about the thingsyou wouldn’t expect. People know me for being exciting.

Favorite ingredient:I don’t know. I love so many things. I really love eggs, and one ofmy favorite combinations of all times is lobster, eggs and truffles.

Favorite dish:Duck five ways. I remember the day I created it after Katrina. It has

been a home run ever since. It’s Szechwan-seared breast, lacqueredleg and thigh, moo shoo pancake stir-fry, duck miso broth, foie graswon tons and currant cassis reduction.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I have loved to cook since my earliest childhood. My grandmoth-er used to chase me out of the kitchen with a broom when I was

little. As I grew up, I started cooking a lot but I figured I loved itso much, I really didn’t want to do it for a job. I went to school tobe a dentist, worked in a bank for seven years, then I owned a petstore. All the while people loved my cooking, and I realized it waswhat I wanted to do. I took a temporary job in a restaurant, and Ijust fell in love with it.•

— Craig Guillot

Scott boswellStella and Stanley

BestExecutive

Chefs PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

BestOwners

Years at establishment:I started Cafe Giovanni in 1991. I had been in the restaurantbusiness since I was a kid and wanted to be my own boss. Ihad my own ideas on how a place like this should operatebecause I knew what it was like to run things from both thefront and back of a restaurant.

Community involvement:We started the Chef Duke Foundation for Kids about 17 yearsago. We were doing different things like wine dinners to raisemoney for kids. Then I decided to start my own foundation forkids in need. With the money from the fundraiser, we fill up a U-Haul truck with toys and bring them to children at Children’sHospital. Last year we had enough for about 220 kids.

Major milestones:Where we are used to be a terrible block. People didn’t walkdown this part of the street — they ran. So I decided to launchthe Decatur Street Association, and we really cleaned the placeup. We had 45 members and have since merged it into theFrench Quarter Business Association. It is a different atmos-phere today. They call this the Gateway to the French Quarter.

Favorite dish:I don’t have one in particular. Instead, I would offer a tastingmenu with many small dishes, all offering the different stylesof Italian cooking we have here.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:When I was 12 years old, I went to work as a dishwasher forthe House of Lee under Harry and Davis Lee. I went from

dishwasher to busboy to helping with the food, and I likedeverything about the business and feel the same way today.•

— Garry Boulard

Duke LociceroCafé Giovanni

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

28 Culinary Connoisseurs

Professional training and education:I grew up in the restaurant business at mydad’s restaurant. I got into the bar and night-club business for eight years. I ran a rock ‘n’roll club. It’s fun but it takes a toll. I knew Ididn’t want to be in the bar business any-more. I studied at the Culinary Institute ofAmerica in New York, where I graduatedfrom in 1985, and I was a very old-line cookat that point.

Years at establishment:Eight, since G.W. Fins opened in March 2001.

Previous experience:I had an externship with the Buckhead LifeGroup in Atlanta. They were pretty much thefine dining establishment in Atlanta. I spenttwo years as a sous chef at one of their seafoodrestaurants. They opened their steakhouse,Chops, and I got the executive chef job andspent three years there. Ruth’s Chris hired meto be their corporate chef in 1992. I had nevereven been to New Orleans, even though it wasonly 500 miles away. During my time there,from 1992 to 1999, Ruth’s Chris doubled insize from roughly 35 to 70 restaurants.

Community involvement:We usually pick six major charities and doabout 12 charities — total. March of Dimes isa big one, SPCA is a pretty big one, Zoo-to-Do — and that’s not counting the churchesand schools.

Noted for:We support the local seafood industry. That’sthe basis of our menu. On any given day, thereare seven or eight varieties of any local seafoodon the menu. A good 60 percent to 70 percentof the menu is local products.

Favorite ingredient:Pork

Favorite dish:That changes on a daily basis. My favoriteright now is mussels with Chinese sausageand Thai curry broth.

Inspiration to work in the culinaryindustry:Growing up in restaurants. Literally, my earli-est memories are visiting my dad’s restau-rants. I came by it naturally.•

— Fritz Esker

Tenney flynnG.W. Fins

BestExecutive

Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

Professional training and education:I started cooking in 1999. I have no formal training, but rathera self-styled apprenticeship. I attribute a lot of what I know tothe chefs I’ve worked with in the past, particularly Chef AnneKearny-Sands.

Years at establishment:Five and a half, collectively.

Previous experience:I grew up in California and worked in a few hotel restaurantsbefore moving to New Orleans in the summer of 2002. Sincethen, I’ve worked at Ralph Brennan’s, Peristyle and Stella.

Community involvement:The past two years, I participated in St. Baldricks, where peoplepledge money for you to shave your head. The proceeds are usedfor pediatric cancer research. It was definitely an easy andrewarding way to help out.

Noted for:The gnocchi. I can’t take it off of the menu because it’s so popular.It’s made with smoked bacon,Parmesan,crème fraiche and chives.

Favorite ingredient:I like onions because they lend flavor to any dish. It’s a flavorthat really carries.

Favorite dish:I don’t have a favorite dish to prepare because I’m always tryingto move forward, but I enjoy eating homemade tacos — made byme and my wife. Vietnamese food is another favorite.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I just like being around food. Being able to do something I loveis inspiring as well as being able to work with people who enjoyfood as much as I do.•

— Nayita Wilson

justin devillierLa Petite Grocery

BestExecutive

Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 29

Professional training and education:I learned while working with the Brennan family for 26 years,serving under Dick and Ella Brennan and chefs Jamie Shannon,Gerard Maras and Jimmy Smith.

Years at establishment:One

Previous experience:I worked as sous chef at Mr. B’s for 10 years and at Commander’sPalace for one year before serving six years in the U.S. Army. Afterserving in the Army, I served as sous chef at Commander’s Palaceagain for four years and as an executive chef and corporate chef atPalace Café, the Bourbon House and Dickie Brennan’s SteakHouse.I’ve also worked at Red Fish Grill and Ralph’s on the Park.

Community involvement:I’ve served as a judge at United Way’s Gumbo Fest and con-ducted 45-minute cooking demonstrations at Jazz Fest 13 of thepast 15 years. After Hurricane Katrina, I cooked at John’s Grillin San Francisco during a fundraiser to benefit restaurants dam-aged by the storm.

Noted for:Tweaking traditional dishes such as turtle soup, gumbo andsauces. I’m also a good teacher, developing young cooks and giv-ing them the benefits I had growing up learning the craft.

Favorite ingredient:Truffles. I got spoiled with truffles when I was young. They’revery expensive, but they’re delicious.

Favorite dish:Muriel’s oven-roasted redfish wrapped around crab stuffingwith crab butter.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:My grandmother taught me to cook, and my mother taught methe restaurant business. I cooked my first eggs with my grand-

mother when I was 2 years old, standing on a crate. It was 2tablespoons of butter, two eggs, scrambled with salt and pepperand stirred with a fork. My mother, Viva Pesantes, was in therestaurant business for 50 years and brought me into it with myAunt Dot. I just have a love and passion for food and havelearned from great New Orleans chefs over the years.•

— Diana Chandler

Gus MartinMuriel’s Jackson Square

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

Professional training and education:I graduated from Jesuit High School andreceived a biology and philosophy degree in1998 from the University of Alabama. Threeyears later I graduated from Johnson andWales University in Charleston, S.C., with aculinary degree.

Years at establishment:I’ve been here since Katrina. Before that Iworked at the Charleston Grill in Charleston,as well as Rene Bistrot and Ralph’s at the Parkhere in New Orleans.

Community involvement:I still do a lot with Jesuit’s career days andmentoring programs, but there are so manyevents and charities through the Galatoirefamily that I either do cooking demonstra-tions for or donate food to. We’ve doneevents here for Children’s Hospital, and I’vecooked for our March of Dimes fundraiserfor the past three years.

Noted for:Probably French Creole cuisine

Favorite ingredient:Anything fresh — that is the most importantthing, whether it’s seafood or vegetables. I likecooking things I catch, whether that’s speck-led trout, redfish or black drum.

Favorite dish:I added a duck and boursin cheese crepe. Wewere just playing around in the kitchen oneday, had some port-soaked raisins, put every-thing together and it came out well. We ran itat our restaurant in Baton Rouge as our testingground, then added it to the menu here.

Inspiration to work in the culinaryindustry:I’ve been working in restaurants since I was14. I started at Tony Angello’s Restaurant as abusboy, but when I grew up and it was time todecide what I wanted to be, I applied to med-ical school. When I left the interview, some-thing told me that was not what I wanted to do,so I went home and told my parents I wasgoing to go to culinary school. I had beenworking in restaurants for six years and nevercomplained about going to work, so it madeperfect sense to make this my career.•

— Garry Boulard

brian landryGalatoire’s

BestExecutive

Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

BestExecutive

Chefs

Professional training and education:Florida Culinary Institute in West Palm Beach, Fla.

Years at establishment:Four years at Emeril’s Restaurant in New Orleans and eight yearsat Emeril’s family of restaurants beginning with Emeril’s Orlando

Previous experience:The Windsor Court Hotel, Restaurant Cuvee, Emeril’s Orlandoand Emeril’s Atlanta. In January 2008, I assumed full commandof the kitchen at Emeril’s Restaurant in New Orleans.

Community involvement:I value any work helping children through the foundation;that’s my soft spot. My family has always been interested ingiving back to children, and that has stuck with me through-out my career.

In 2002, Emeril Lagasse established the Emeril LagasseFoundation to support and encourage programs creating devel-opmental and educational opportunities for children. The foun-dation has contributed more than $2.5 million to Gulf Coastorganizations including the New Orleans Center for CreativeArts, Café Reconcile, St. Michael’s Special School, ParkwayPartners, Covenant Café and the Covenant House.

Noted for:I think it’s the ability to manage Emeril’s kitchen in a world-class restaurant and to be able to maintain the high standardsour customers have come to expect with the dishes we serve.

Favorite ingredient:Seafood, especially shellfish

Favorite dish:Pasta combined with any of the local Louisiana seafood.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:My grandparents and parents were incredible cooks, and Ialways grew up around food. Also growing up in Toronto, sucha multicultural city, provided me with a lot of different culturesand food varieties I was exposed to and influenced my personalstyle of cooking I have today.•

— Tommy Santora

david slaterEmeril’s Restaurant

BestExecutive

Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

30 Culinary Connoisseurs

Professional training and education:I started my culinary training at age 15 in my native city ofBrittany, France, before studying in Bordeaux, France. We have95 to 98 culinary institutions in France. That’s why France hasso many good chefs.

Years at establishment:In 2005, I moved from New York to the New Orleans metropoli-tan area, where I opened Chateau du Lac in Kenner. In January2008,we moved the restaurant to a larger location in Old Metairie.

Previous experience:I’ve worked in four-star Parisian kitchens throughout my career. In1999, I moved from Paris to New York with Sodexho, a French-based company that opened a cruise-dining experience on theHudson River.

Community involvement:We have a lot of involvement with Audubon Charter School, suchas donating money, food or gift certificates. We never say no.

Noted for:We have a specialty of escargot.

Favorite ingredient:I don’t have a favorite, but if I had to pick, it’s cream and butter. Ifyou take out of the kitchen cream and butter,I can’t cook.I also liketo use olive oil, fresh tomatoes, and seasonal vegetables and fruits.

Favorite dish:Probably blanquette de veau and coq au vin. It’s basic food aFrench mother will cook after Mass.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:My mother and aunt. They were great cooks. Also, the regionwhere I was living (Brittany), they would bring in great fish, thebest oysters and beautiful crabs.•

— Amy Ferrara Smith

Jacques saleunChateau du Lac

BestExecutive

Chefs PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

BestSousChefs

Professional training and education:No university degree or culinary degree, butI attended the University of Iowa between1995 and 2000 as an art major and TulaneUniversity from 2006 to 2007 as a Russianlanguage major.

Years at establishment:Three

Previous experience:Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Bar from2002 to 2005 and Restaurant August in 2005.

Community involvement:I’m involved with the Young LeadershipCouncil through Wednesdays at the Square,where I cook every couple of weeks,and WhereYa’ Rack, where I help install bike racks thatbusinesses buy for their bike-riding employees.I also belong to 504ward and volunteer at thelocal farmer’s market twice a week, helping ven-dors with whatever they may need.

Noted for:People skills. I think I have a good knack formanaging people, managing the kitchen andteaching other cooks.

Favorite ingredient:Eggs, for the simple fact they’re versatile.You can use them for breakfast, lunch, din-ner, appetizers, desserts or garnishes. Thereisn’t much you can’t do with eggs.

Favorite dish:Palace Café’s Pepper Duck dish. It’s a pep-per-crusted duck breast with seared HudsonValley foie gras and set on parsnip mashedpotatoes with a citrus-confit salad and sauceau poivre.

Inspiration to work in the culinaryindustry:It dates back to my college days in Iowa. Iwas a chef at a restaurant, and I was lookingforward to going to work more than I wasgoing to classes. So I put all my energy intocooking and becoming a better chef. In2002, I made a commitment to cook profes-sionally in a bigger city, so I decided to tryNew Orleans. I’ve had a pretty amazing edu-cation since I have been here. Every day is adifferent challenge, and that makes my workexciting.•

— Tommy Santora

Brandon MuetzelPalace Café

BestSousChefs

Professional training and education:I didn’t go to any culinary schools. I justlearned by doing it.

Years at establishment:About 44 years

Previous experience:None. I was cooking for a barroom on Fridaysand Saturdays back in ’64, and the executivesteward here got me in at the Royal Orleans.They weren’t hiring colored cooks, so I wentin the stewarding department with him forabout six months. I was tight with the cooks inthere. There was a saucier chef named HaroldSage. One evening two cooks called in sick,and I just went back there and helped him andasked him how he wanted the steaks cooked.The next day, I came back and they had me.Then I went from the breakfast cook to thebreakfast chef to the saucier chef to the ban-quet chef to the floor chef to the sous chef.

Noted for:Red beans, fried chicken and gumbo

Favorite ingredient:Chicken base, fish base or beef base becauseit just brings out the flavor.

Favorite dish:That would be gumbo. Chicken, sausage andseafood. The secret is all in the roux, and youhave to have a stock.

Inspiration to work in the culinaryindustry:I used to stay with my grandmother when Iwas little. I used to help her cook, and when Iwent back home my gumbo was a big thing.All the family and friends came over and saidI was going to be a great chef someday. I juststayed on board.•

— Craig Guillot

Emanuel jonesRecently retired from The Rib Room

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 31

32 Culinary Connoisseurs

BestSousChefs

Professional training and education:I didn’t go to culinary school. I found that just working inBaton Rouge in certain places has given me everything I’veneeded to know.

Years at establishment:Three

Previous experience:When I first started, I worked at the French Market Bistro. Youcould be as creative as you wanted,and they encouraged that kindof creativity. I worked at a private dining club, the Camelot Club,which had lots of banquets and catering.Then I worked at a high-volume chain like Ruth’s Chris, and that wasn’t really the venue Iliked. I worked at this other little place called Chicago’s as a linecook and worked my way up to executive chef.

Community involvement:We recently did a benefit for the battered women’s clinic inBaton Rouge and a wine dinner for Habitat for Humanity. Wedo stuff for the Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra, theCancer Society and Woman’s Hospital, who we’re trying toteam up with to make a heart-healthy menu.

Noted for:As silly as it sounds, they call me the soup queen. Every day wehave a soup du jour, and I take all the leftovers and the scraps wedon’t use — like potato and eggplant — and use them to the busi-ness’ full capacity.

Favorite ingredient:Sriracha (chili paste). I put it in everything. If you need a little bit of

a vinegar shot or a little bit of a spice, it’s perfect for that, and peo-ple can’t really tell if it’s in there unless they know it’s me cooking.

Favorite dish:Any day of the week, I could eat a seared rare tuna with a craw-fish sauce — I could die eating that.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I was 16 when I first started working in restaurants, and my firstjob was busser/waiter. It’s getting up every day and not dread-ing to go to work, doing the day-to-day routine with the sameguys who respect you and you respect them.•

— Leah Bartos

heather youngGalatoire’s Bistro

BestSousChefs

Professional training and education:I grew up in a family restaurant in the Lower 9th Ward, but Ilearned all of my cooking skills on the job. My training reallycame after high school when I applied for a part-time job as afood runner. Once I saw what was going on in the kitchen, Ireally developed the desire to cook.

Years at establishment:I’ve been with Dickie Brennan’s for about three years. Thetheme here is “great steaks with a New Orleans touch.” So com-ing from this area, I believe I bring a great deal of New Orleansflavor along with my passion and ambition.

Previous experience:Line cook at Cafe Sbisa,executive sous chef at The Red Room andexecutive chef at Cafe Sbisa.

Community involvement:I recently worked with students at St. Ville Academy. I was ableto talk to the kids about their interests and the importance ofstaying in school. I was also one of the guest chefs for the inau-gural Treme Festival. I’ve had the opportunity to represent thecity of New Orleans as an ambassador for our regional cuisinein Medellin, Colombia, and I often present cooking demonstra-tions at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival.

Noted for:I make a really good gumbo. If you want a great gumbo, thencome see me.

Favorite ingredient:I like to deal with a lot of Louisiana products such as seafood,

crabmeat and fresh tomatoes. Garlic, oysters and mushrooms aregreat, too, because they add a level of depth to any dish.

Favorite dish:My favorite dish is blackened redfish. If you’re into spicy dish-es like I am, then you’ll really appreciate a blackened dish. Tome, blackened products embody New Orleans.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I have a great deal of ambition and passion for what I do. I lovefood and working with different products every day, and I enjoygiving the people of New Orleans and from all over the worldwhat they really want, and that’s great food.•

— Nayita Wilson

alfred singletonDickie Brennan’s Steakhouse

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

BestPastryChefs

Professional training and education:I have culinary training from DelgadoCommunity College and Notter School ofPastry Arts in Orlando, Fla.

Years at establishment:About eight years with the Ritz-Carlton.

Previous experience:I was the assistant pastry chef at Palace Caféand worked in various positions at theWindham, Radisson and at the Ritz-Carlton inNaples Beach, Fla.

Community involvement:I do classes at Phoebe Hearst ElementarySchool with a program called “Table Etiquettefor First-Graders.” The Ritz-Carlton providesa lunch and I bring it to the class, and we goover how to act at a table and properly eat yourfood. I also go there to do “Green Eggs andHam” day and cook it in front of them whilethey read the story. We also do that with gin-gerbread for Christmas. I’ve also been workingwith the Ben Sarrat Jr. Foundation to raisemoney for a local child who has been diag-nosed with inoperable brain cancer.

Favorite ingredient:The sweet potato because it is extremely versa-tile and savory. It has a fantastic texture thatlends itself to multiple uses. I’m a Louisianagirl, and I love my yams.

Favorite dessert:Panna cotta. It’s an Italian cooked cream thatis smooth and delicious. It is like a cloud andnever lets you down. It is impossible to messup one of those few flawless creations that nomatter how finicky the eater, they will neverturn away from it.

Inspiration to work in the culinaryindustry:When I was growing up, we did not have awhole lot of money and my family wasn’tparticularly adventurous with food. I alwayswanted to try new things I saw on TV. WhenI got older, my mother would bring me intothe kitchen, and she would just bake blindwithout recipes. She was probably my great-est inspiration.•

— Craig Guillot

Simone flemingMélange at the Ritz-Carlton

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 33

BestSommeliers

Professional training and education:In addition to director of operations for the Link RestaurantGroup — which includes Herbsaint, Couchon, Butcher andCalcasieu — I’m also the wine buyer.

A few years back, I did the introductory course for theGuild of Sommeliers. I’ve done the second-level training withthe Wine and Spirit Education Trust, but I get more out of mytraining in that I taste more than 100 different wines a week.I’m less interested in initials behind my name and more inter-ested in spending time and money visiting the wine country.

Years at establishment:Chef Donald Link established Link Restaurant Group inJanuary to support his four restaurants and facilities. I havebeen director of operations since the business formed andhave worked at Herbsaint since 2001.

Previous experience:I waited tables while I was at Christian Brothers University inMemphis, (Tenn.), and I worked at Vaquero’s on Prytania Street.

Community involvement:I’m on the board for the Susan G.Komen for the Cure Foundation.Every year, we have a Summer Cure Chefs Wine Dinner. I coordi-nate to get the chefs to cook, and I handle the wine.

Favorite wine:Wine from the Burgundy region in France.

Most expensive bottle opened:I’ve pulled corks for customers for a few thousand dollars. …

Occasionally we’ll get someone who is a real collector. Theycall ahead and let you know they are bringing a bottle.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:Before I worked at Herbsaint, I had never seen a restaurant sofocused on putting out good food. It’s also been an inspiration

to work with (chefs) Donald Link, Susan Spicer and all thepeople at Herbsaint. After Katrina, it was an inspiration to beone of the first restaurants to open and to see people have theirfirst fancy dinner out where they saw their friends for the firsttime since the storm.•

— Amy Ferrara Smith

Joe BriandLink Restaurant Group

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

34 Culinary Connoisseurs

BestPastryChefs

Years at establishment:Two years and four months. It’s one of thebest restaurants in New Orleans.

Previous experience:Six months at The Melting Pot and six monthsat Whole Foods. It got me used to knife skills,and it let me know what I was getting into, thebusiness side of it.

Favorite ingredient:Truffle oil, chocolate and thyme

Favorite dessert:Watermelon sorbet

Inspiration to work in the culinaryindustry:I used to cook with my mom when I was lit-tle, baking cakes. As I got older, I realized itwas something I was good at, so I thought I’dgive it a try and it’s worked out so far.•

— Fritz Esker

Andre mckendallCommander’s Palace

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

BestPastryChefs

Professional training and education:I attended the Culinary Studies Institute inFarmington Hills, Mich., outside of Detroit. Igraduated in 1991 with an associate’s degreeof occupational studies in culinary arts andfocused mainly in savory cuisine. I made thefull-time switch to pastry about 15 years agoand for the most part I am self-taught, althoughI attend any and every class or demo I canaround the country.

Years at establishment:Two

Previous experience:Before moving to New Orleans, I spent sevenyears as the executive pastry chef and executivesous chef at MotorCity Casino in Detroit.While there,I also returned to my alma mater asa culinary instructor in the pastry art and bak-

ing program. I taught the advanced pastry andadvanced plated dessert classes.

Favorite ingredient:Passion and rock ’n’ roll

Favorite dessert:A really good vanilla éclair. My favorite guiltypleasure, though — Little Debbie Swiss Rollsright out of the fridge.

Inspiration to work in the culinaryindustry:Culinary Salon (food competition) — I wasblown away by the artistic possibilities onecould achieve with food. That’s when I knewthis was a career for me. Prior to that, with-out getting too cliché, my mother was thegreatest cook I ever knew.•

— John Breerwood

tariq hannaSucré

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 35

BestPastryChefs

Professional training and education:I never had any formal training. Baking is something that’s beeninside of me. I started baking around the house when I was 11years old.

Years at establishment:30 years

Previous experience:I worked in the insurance industry after graduating from highschool until I had my first child in 1975. I started baking in1978, doing cakes for friends and sold cakes out of my homeuntil 1990. I opened my first storefront in 1991.

Community involvement:I always donate pastries to guesthouses, senior citizens homes,fairs and churches. For the past six years, I’ve donated to K-Bar-B’s annual gala, which helps raise money for unwed mothers.

Favorite ingredient:I love almond extract. It adds a special touch and, to me, is aunique flavor to New Orleans.

Favorite dessert:My favorite would be the fresh fruitcake, which is a five-layercake with fresh fruit on top. My customers love the doberge cake,petit fours and turtles.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:My older sister.•

— Nayita Wilson

Marguerite riehmMarguerite’s Cakes

PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER

BestPastryChefs

Professional training and education:Not related to the industry,I have a bachelor’s degree from LouisianaState University. As far as culinary education, I have a professionaldegree from the American Institute of Baking, but I mostly learnedfrom the hands-on training with my father and grandfather.

Years at establishment:I started working summers during high school back in 1970 butwent full-time in 1976.

Previous experience:Other than working those summers, I worked in a bakery inBaton Rouge when I was in college. I also was the productionmanager at McKenzie’s Bakery.

Community involvement:We donate sweets to church fairs, school fairs and other organiza-tions such as Zoo-to-Do.We are involved in almost all high schoolfundraisers and fairs.

Favorite ingredient:Strawberry. I just like the flavor.

Favorite dessert:Of the ones I make, I’d say the brownies. My overall favorite,though, is crème brulee, but that’s more of a restaurant dessert.We’re a bakery.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:Other than working alongside my father and grandfather, I real-

ized I didn’t want to be a math teacher after I graduated. I enjoythe baking part but not really the running the business part.•

— John Breerwood

laurent moecklinSwiss Confectionery

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

36 Culinary Connoisseurs

Legend

Years in industry:59. Ella Brennan began working in theindustry in 1946 as a kitchen supervisor forher brother, Owen Edward Brennan, whoopened Owen Brennan’s French and CreoleRestaurant in July 1946. Ella became manag-er in 1955 when Owen passed away.

The Brennans bought Commander’sPalace in 1969 and began working in therestaurant in 1974. Ella retired from the day-to-day operations of the Commander’s PalaceFamily of Restaurants after Hurricane Katrina.

Community involvement:“I spent a lot of time on boards throughoutmy years, but the most meaningful communi-ty work I did was my time with the NewOrleans Restaurant Association. We used tohave board meetings on my porch and talkabout promoting tourism and visitors com-ing to the city. I was there really for the birthof it all — New Orleans becoming a greatrestaurant attraction.

“It’s interesting to see how bad we needour tourism and convention business toreturn now and help our restaurants. Thatcan happen, but we need strong leadershipin the city to see it through.”

Major milestones:“When we started working at Commander’sPalace the day after Mardi Gras in 1974, itbegan one of the most rewarding years of mylife. Everybody in our family went to workthere and did everything they knew best tomake it the best restaurant in New Orleans.That’s still our goal as a family today.”

Inspiration to work in the culinaryindustry:“When I was 21, my brother, Owen, and myfather bought a restaurant, the Vieux Carre,and I went to eat there frequently and I didn’tlike it. I thought it wasn’t a very good restau-rant and I kept complaining to them, soOwen said, ‘If you think you can do better,then you run the restaurant.’ I told him I knewgood food because my mother was a greatcook. So I got into the business for good.

“I learned a lot from Owen, and he founda business we could all do together. My moth-er and father always taught us to respect andsupport each other. I always loved the familyaspect of the business. I find the businessvery exciting, challenging and stimulating,everything you would want in your job.”•

— Tommy Santora

Ella brennanCommander’s Palace Family of Restaurants

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

BestMaitre D’s

Years at establishment:Seven

Previous experience:Before Le Parvenu, I spent two years at theCourt of Two Sisters as a maitre d’ and man-ager and 10 years at Christian’s Restaurant asmaitre d’, where I learned to love the localdiners. Before that, I worked at a host ofother restaurants, including Broussard’s,Louis XVI and Arnaud’s, and establishmentsat the Hyatt and Sheraton hotels.

Community involvement:As a member of the Kenner Lions Club, Iparticipate in various events, including serv-ing food during Oktoberfest and collectingnonperishable food items for the KennerFood Bank. I’m a volunteer with the SpecialOlympics and the National Football LeaguePlayers Association.

Most notable guests:While tending bar at the Hyatt Hotel, I onceserved President Ford, who was in town dur-ing his term. That’s when I learned everyoneshould be given the presidential treatment.That is why if someone noteworthy comesin, I feel it is best to treat them the same asany other guest. Of course, there are someexceptions — my mother, for one.

Worst experience:This is very sad, but one of my favorite cus-tomers passed away in the restaurant. I con-soled his wife until the ambulance came.

Inspiration to work in the culinaryindustry:Felix, a former maitre d’ at Broussard’s,taught me the difference between a maitre d’and a manager.•

— Diana Chandler

Michael JuanLe Parvenu

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

New Orleans CityBusiness April 20, 2009 37

lifetimeAchievement

Years at establishment:Bob and Sandy DeFelice have been in the business for about21 years. “Actually, it’s in the family, so we’ve been involved abit longer than that,” Bob DeFelice said. Pascal’s Manale hasbeen a New Orleans establishment since 1913, when FrankManale opened the restaurant. Around 1939, Pascal Radostabought the restaurant from Frank Manale’s widow andrenamed it Pascal’s Manale. Today, together with their sisterGinny and brother Mark, Bob and Sandy DeFelice continuethe tradition at the family-operated restaurant.

Community involvement:For the past 19 years, Bob DeFelice has been a volunteer exhib-it diver at the Aquarium of the Americas. He has also been onthe CrimeStoppers board of directors for about 12 years andthe Better Business Bureau board of directors. Sandy DeFelicealso has been a member of the St. Catherine of Siena Men’sClub and volunteered as the school’s girls’ baseball coach.

Major milestones:“We’re about to come on it — our 100-year anniversary,” BobDeFelice said. “We’ve had 95 years of being in business. Also, wehave three generations active in the business.” Virginia andSavare DeFelice, parents of Bob, Sandy, Ginny and Mark, stillmake appearances at the restaurant.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:“I guess it’s something that’s kind of in the family,” Bob

DeFelice said. “Since the mid-’70s, I’ve had an opportunity to

work here, and I took that. Being in the hospitality business,in a way we’re giving something back.”

Sandy DeFelice agreed. “Let’s just say I was born into it

and grew up in it. I started working here when I was at (De LaSalle) high school in 1966.”•

— Amy Ferrara Smith

sandy & bob defelicePascal’s Manale

lifetimeAchievement

Years at establishment:It will be 42 in July. I started as a cook in the kitchen in 1967.

Community involvement:With our clientele, we know how they want things, and youknow, they’re very particular people. Not that they’re gettingany food different than anybody else, it’s just that the localswant you to be here for them. Anybody who comes throughthe door who needs any help, I’m here to assist them withwhatever they need.

Every person you serve is different. You just have to feel theguests out and see how they are. You can joke with some peo-ple, and some people you can’t. The elderly crowd, years ago,used to come here to dine, and they’d sit here for two to threehours. Now, the young crowd, the faster you serve them, the bet-ter they like it because they want to get out there on the streets.

When people have a big party and want to get out at a cer-tain time, I always tell them as fast as y’all can eat, I’ll get youserved. Things like that, you just have to go around and feel theguests out. A couple of movie stars I’ve waited on includeTommy Lee Jones, Buddy Ebsen, Jackie Gleason, NicolasCage. And they did the “JFK” movie down here with KevinCostner (which was shot partially inside Antoine’s). I was anextra in the movie.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:If I didn’t work here, I don’t know what I would do withmyself. I come in every day about 9:30 a.m. or 10 a.m. andcheck the dining rooms and do things like that. If I had to stayhome, I’d go crazy. I’m so used to it.

Besides my waiter job, I take care of ordering extra tables andequipment and things the restaurant might need. I can walk into

this restaurant and tell you when the tables are out of place justby looking at the dining room. I can just look at the legs of thetable and tell you if it’s in the right place or not. After 42 years,you come in and you look at it, and you know it ain’t right.•

— Leah Bartos

sterling constantAntoine’s

Sandy, left, and Bob DeFelice

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

38 Culinary Connoisseurs

lifetimeAchievement

Years at establishment:I started working at the Riviera as a lifeguard on March 25, 1962.Then, when they closed it down for the season, I went to work inthe Esplanade Dining Room as a captain. I started working atThe Rib Room around 1964 as a captain, and then a few monthslater I was promoted to assistant maitre d’. In all, I have workedwith the company for 47 years. I enjoy the atmosphere, servingthe guests, and I still have fond memories of the past supervisorswho were wonderful with us.

Community involvement:I do not physically do any community work, but I do givemoney to the United Way and church. I also sponsor a childthrough Children’s International, which helps poor childrenin third world countries through donations.

Major milestones:The major milestone in my career is that I have been able to pro-vide excellent service to all the actors and political figures I havemet. One day I served George Hamilton and his girlfriend, whowas President Lyndon B. Johnson’s daughter — Linda BirdJohnson. When they filmed the movie “Number One,” I got tomeet Charlton Heston. Every moment I have spent in The RibRoom is always a proud one.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:At first, I did not really have an inspiration to work in the hospi-tality industry, but once I started working I fell in love with thefood and the people I served.•

— Fritz Esker

jorge pesantesThe Rib Room

lifetimeAchievement

Years at establishment:We started in 1978 and opened at the same location where weare today. I am the owner and do everything here. I am herealmost seven days a week. All together, we have five peoplewho work here.

Community involvement:We have done some charity events. When the late SheriffHarry Lee was alive, he would ask us to do different things,like something for the Children’s Hospital, and we would.

Major milestones:Having Harry Lee come in here so many times. He loved it hereand always sat near the front. Anything he wanted, we would dofor him. I came to know so many other political people who alsohave liked to come here. Bobby Jindal used to be a regular cus-tomer, although I think he is too busy since he has become gov-ernor to visit us again. But (Jefferson Parish President) AaronBroussard, also, and so many others who are in politics — I likethat they come here.

Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:I worked in a Chinese restaurant in New York and moved herein 1977. People told me to move away from New York if I want-ed to start a business. After we opened, I felt very happy we didit here instead of in New York, where people are not thatfriendly. I felt lucky because I found something to do that I likevery much. The customers became my friends.

I am here from the first person who comes in to the last per-son closing the door, and I know just about every single person

who comes in here.Southern people, our customers, are so friendly. They kiss

and hug and ask you how you are doing. If you did that in NewYork, they would look at you like you are crazy or something.

My customers call this “Shirley’s Place,” or they say “Let’s goover and see Shirley.” I sometimes wonder if people don’t knowthe name of the restaurant.•

— Garry Boulard

shirley leeRoyal China

The Rib Room server JorgePesantes chats with regularcustomers Knox Tumlyn,left, and Pat Gootee.

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI

s p o n s o r e d b y :

THE GLAZER’S COMPANIES OF LOUISIANA IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THAT

IT HAS BEEN SELECTED TO DISTRIBUTE MAKER’S MARK IN LOUISIANA.

At Maker’s Mark we embrace a rich tradition of bourbon making

that spans six generations. In fact, we’re so proud of our family that we’ve developed

a heritage team to travel the world educating folks on the finer points

of Maker’s Mark Bourbon and bourbon in general.

Mercedes-Benz of New Orleans3727 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, LA (504) 456-3727

s p o n s o r e d b y :

Mercedes-Benz of New Orleans is proud to sponsor the CityBusiness 2009

Culinary Connoisseurs. New Orleans cuisine is second to none and we all take

pride in the reputation our restaurants bring to our city. They set the standards

for others to follow. At Mercedes-Benz, we know a thing or two about setting

standards. Take, for instance the all new 2009 GLK. The GLK builds on the

commitment to excellence that Mercedes-Benz has displayed for over 100 years.