2 | · 978-XXX-XXX-XXX-X BARKOD GELECEK Responsibilities about the published abstracts are the property of their respective authors. 4 | MESSAGE BY

2 | www.kozmetikkongresi.com


ABSTRACTS & PROCEEDINGS

BOOK

7 - 9 NOVEMBER 2019

Antalya – TURKEY

EDITORS

Fatih Mehmet EMEN

slıhan Cesu TU UT

İsmail SL N

u en Es a DEMİ DÖĞEN

Nazım EKE OĞLU

ISBN

978-XXX-XXX-XXX-X

BARKOD GELECEK

Responsibilities about the published abstracts are the property of their respective authors.


MESSAGE BY THE PRESIDENTS

Dear Participants,

As the Cosmetic Manufacturers and Researchers Association (KÜAD), we organized the ”Traditional

International Cosmetic Congress” on November 7-9 in Antalya. This year the main theme of the

congress was “Minimalist Cosmetic Approaches”.

As it is known, the history of cosmetic products is based on ancient times. The oldest known

cosmetics are natural minerals, oils and various plant extracts. We can say that the history of cosmetics

has begun minimalist and has changed in time and reached its current state. Environmental problems

which occured by the changes in today's consumer habits and increasing use, health and sustainability

problems brought the minimalist approach back to the agenda. The minimalist cosmetic approach

should emphasize the choice of the right products with right content at the right time. At the same

time, through the integration of developing global biotechnological methods into industrial cosmetic

production; it should be adopted less side effect, maximum benefit and maximum effect approach.

In this context, scientific developments, innovations and approaches supporting the minimalist

approach has been discussed at the 3rd

International Cosmetic Congress. Formulation, technology,

packaging, regulation, marketing and environmental impacts of minimalist cosmetic approach was

analyzed by valuable speakers with different areas of expertise.

During the congress; companies increased their cooperation with universities by taking advantage of

their specialization areas. Also, special meeting areas created in order for companies to create a

platform of cooperation among themselves. In addition to the main sessions, 5 parallel sessions were

held as previous years to lead the subjects to be discussed in detail.

The 3rd International Cosmetic Congress was held with the support of more than 30 institutions and

associations across the country and hosted over 450 participants from different countries and 30

sponsors. As a result of the comprehensive PR planning throughout the country, more than 300 news

were published and announced to over 600.000 people.

We would like to thank everyone who contributed to the success of the Congress.

We hope to see you in the “4th International Cosmetic Congress” which includes many efforts of

cosmetic sector keyplayers, employees and scientists.

Fuat ARSLAN Levent KAHRIMAN

President of ICC President of KÜAD


CONTENTS

PAGE

MESSAGE BY THE PRESIDENTS

4

COMMITTEES

6

INVITED SPEAKERS

11

LIST OF ORAL PRESENTATIONS

20

LIST OF POSTER PRESENTATIONS

22

ABSTRACTS & PROCEEDINGS OF ORAL PRESENTATIONS

24

ABSTRACTS & PROCEEDINGS OF POSTER PRESENTATIONS

105

SPONSORS

145


COMMITTEES PRESIDENT

Chem. Fuat ARSLAN

KÜAD Member of Board, Vice Chairman

ORGANISING COMMITTEE

Chem. Levent KAHRIMAN

President of KÜAD

Chem. Fuat ARSLAN

Board Member of KÜAD, President of the Congress

Şevki METE

Board Member of KÜAD, Vice President of the Congress

Exp. Phto. M. Halis ERTAŞ


Exp. Pharm. İsmail ASLAN


Exp. Cos. Bekir ÇAKICI


Assoc. Prof. Dr. Göktürk AVŞAR

Member of KÜAD, Mersin University, Vice President of the Congress

Ulaş DEVRİM

Board Member of KÜAD

Chem. Eng. Deniz ÖZATICI


Hale YEDİER


Chem. Eng. Özge Yüksel ÖZEL


Prof.Dr. Hakan DAL

Supervisory Board Member of KÜAD


Prof.Dr. Nazım ŞEKEROĞLU

Kilis 7 Aralık University, Food Engineering Department

Prof. Dr. Fatih Mehmet EMEN

Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, Chemistry Department

Asst. Prof. Dr. Aslıhan CESUR TURGUT

Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, Scientific and Technology Application and Research Center

Nursel EVRİM

Member of KÜAD

Selahattin BOZKURT

Member of KÜAD

Chem. Elife GÜNDÜZ

Member of KÜAD


SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE

AKSU, Zümriye, Prof. Dr.

Hacettepe University

AKSU, Buket, Assoc. Prof.

Altınbaş University

ASLAN, İsmail, Pharm, M.Sc.

University of Health Sciences

ATAY, Naz Zeynep, Prof. Dr.

Boğaziçi University

ATEŞ, Mustafa, Prof. Dr.

Ege University

AVŞAR, Göktürk, Assoc. Prof.

Mersin University

AYTEMİR, Mutlu, Prof. Dr.


BURAN, Kerem, Asst. Prof.

University of Health Sciences

ÇANKAYA, İffet İrem Tatlı, Prof. Dr.


DEMİRDÖĞEN, Ruken Esra, Asst. Prof.

Çankırı Karatekin University

EMEN, Mehmet Fatih, Prof. Dr.

Mehmet Akif Ersoy University

EROĞLU, İpek, Assoc. Prof.


FILOSA, Rosanna, Researcher

University of Campania Luigi Vanvitelli

GÜRSOY, Reyhan Neslihan, Prof. Dr.



HEWITT, Julian, BSc Chem.

Oxford University

KALDERIS, Dimitrios, Asst. Prof.

Hellenic Mediterranean University

KARASU, Çimen, Prof. Dr.

Gazi University

KAYAN, Berkant, Prof. Dr.

Aksaray University

KIJJOA, Anake, Prof. Dr.

Universidade do Porto

KURT, Ahmet Arif, Pharm, M.Sc.

Süleyman Demirel University

ORHAN, İlkay Erdoğan, Prof. Dr.

Gazi University

ÖZER, Kevser Özgen, Prof. Dr.

Ege University

SANGÜN, Mustafa Kemal, Prof. Dr.

Hatay Mustafa Kemal University

SUUTHANUT, Khaetthareeya, Asst. Prof.

Khon Kaen University

SUVACI, Ender, Prof. Dr.

Eskişehir Technical University

ŞEKEROĞLU, Nazım, Prof. Dr.

Kilis 7 Aralık University

TIRNAKSIZ, Fahriye Figen, Prof. Dr.

Gazi University

TURAN, Cemal, Prof. Dr.

İskenderun Technical University

TURGUT, Aslıhan Cesur, Asst. Prof.

Mehmet Akif Ersoy University


TÜRKOĞLU, Zafer, Assoc. Prof.

Haseki Education Research Hospital

UĞRAŞ, Halil İbrahim, Prof. Dr.

Düzce University

YENER, Fatma Gülgün, Prof. Dr.

Istanbul University

YAĞMUR, Emine, Assoc. Prof.

Ankara University

ZEYBEK, Ahmet Ulvi, Prof. Dr.

Ege University



Prof. Dr. Anake KIJJOA

Biomedical Sciences Institute Abel Salazar University of Porto,

PORTUGAL

Anake Kijjoa is a Professor of Chemistry and Head of Chemistry

Department of the Biomedical Sciences Institute Abel Salazar

(ICBAS), and also a Head of the “Chemistry and Biological

Activities of Marine Natural Products Research group” of the Interdisciplinary Centre of

Marine and Environmental Research (CIIMAR) of the University of Porto, Portugal. He

received his BSc (in Pharmacy) from Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok (Thailand) and

PhD in Organic Chemistry from the University of São Paulo (Brazil) and had a stint as post-

doctoral fellow at the Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Heidelberg (Germany) and

Department of Chemistry, The Florida State University at Tallahassee, Florida (USA). His

research interest is on isolation, structure elucidation and biological activity evaluation of

Natural Products from plants, marine sponges, and soil and marine fungi. He has supervised

several Master’s and PhD’s theses of both Portuguese and foreign students. He is an

Associate Editor of the Journal Marine Drugs and member of the Editorial Advisory Board of

various journals in the field of Natural Products. He is a coauthor of more than 150 original

research papers and several book chapters.


Dr. Cham KANG

Director, Entekno Materials, UK

Dr. Cham is a very experienced commercial, business and

marketing professional highly experienced in the fields of

chemicals, healthcare, engineering, manufacturing,

pharmaceuticals and cosmetics markets globally. He has worked

with both multinational enterprises and SME companies enabling

him a thorough understanding on all issues pertaining to the development and

commercialisation of our product. Dr. Cham has qualified to Ph.D. level in Chemistry while

he also holds a Masters in Marketing and an MBA. Cham has made the professional journey

from R&D Manager, Sales Manager, Marketing Manager to Commercial Manager. He has

particular expertise in developing new products and new markets including developing and

executing strategy, developing and nurturing positive customer relationships, organisational

restructuring, change management, marketing/sales/business planning along with staff

training geared to accelerate company performance and growth. Comfortable at a strategic

and operations level, Cham is able to develop strategies and then execute detailed business

plans for commercial opportunities (expansion, business development etc.) with an

entrepreneurial, collaborative mind-set and great leadership skills. He will be responsible for

all of our commercialisation tasks and activities.


Dr. Deepali BHARDWAJ

MD, Dermatologist, Former President Estate Clinic,

International Aesthetics, INDIA

Dr. Deepali Bhardwaj is a Dermatologist and Aestheticianne of

Indian origin. She qualified MBBS from Bharti Vidyapeeth

University, D.V.D.L. (Diploma Dermatology, Venereology and

Leprosy) from Sri Ramachandra Medical College, Chennai, MD Dermatology from USAIM,

Seychelles and M.Phil Cosmetology. Presently, she is operating her own cosmetic and

dermatology clinics in New Delhi and till recently 2018 from the year 2015 she was on panel

with President Estate Clinic, Rashtrapati Bhawan New Delhi too. She is the member of

numerous dermatology associations and organizations and has bagged many international

fellowships like EADV (European Association of Dermatologists and Venereologists) at

Munich, Germany and ISD ( International Society of Dermatology) at Tehran, Iran and

IADVL (Indian Association of Dermatologists, Venereologists and Leprosy specialists) and

also awards including Rajiv Gandhi Memorial Award, Karamveer Award, Chikitsa Ratan and

Priyadarshini Award. Adjunct Visiting Faculty in the Department of Dermatology, AIIMS,

Rishikesh since 2019. Member of Technical Advisory Group on Menstural Hygiene

Management under MOHFW since 2019. Member of advisory National Medical Tourism

Committee since 2017 under Ministry of Tourism.


Julian P. HEWITT

JPH Suncare Technologies, Durham UK

Julian Hewitt graduated from Oxford University in 1988 with a BA

Honours Degree in Chemistry. After graduating, he joined Tioxide,

working on new product development. In 1991, he joined Tioxide's

physical sunscreens business, remaining with the business as it

moved from Tioxide to ICI, Uniqema, and finally Croda. During this time, Julian represented

Uniqema and Croda as a technical expert for sun care products, developed and delivered

training programmes for both internal and external audiences, and guided the development

and launch of innovative new sun care ingredients.

Julian left Croda in October 2011 and formed JPH SunCare Technologies, providing technical

consultancy services, regulatory advice, and training to manufacturers of UV protection

products and ingredient suppliers. Julian is also a member of the editorial advisory board for

the International Journal of Cosmetic Science.


Julie SOFER

Global Application Manager, Sharon Laboratories, ISRAEL

Ms Sofer is a chemical engineer with 25 years of experience in

application and formulation, in both personal care and home care

markets.

She specializes in creating customized solutions for the challenging needs of the cosmetics

industry, bringing her wide background as a formulator into new product development and

designing.

Ms. Sofer is a technical expert in preservation, presently leading the technical applicative

aspects at Sharon Laboratories, a global leading supplier of preservation systems for

cosmetics and personal care.


Assist. Prof. Dr. Khaetthareeya SUTTHANUT

Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Faculty of

Pharmaceutical Sciences, Khon Kaen University, THAILAND

Khaetthareeya Sutthanut is an Assistant Professor of Pharmaceutical

Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Khon Kaen

University. She received her Ph.D. (in R&D Pharmaceutics) from

Khon Kaen University, Thailand.

Her research Kaempferia parviflora, Phytochemistry, Natural health

products and cosmetics, Nutraceutics, Quality control, Chemical analysis, Topical delivery

drugs and cosmeceuticals, Nanotechnology and nanoparticles, Targeted drug delivery,

Functional Foods, Lipid metabolisms, Pharmacokinetics, Probiotics and prebiotics, Anti-

obesity prevention and treatment.

She has numerous publications, articles and patents as well as significant honors and awards

as Year 2018, Special Prize Award in recognition of excellent and creative efforts to invent

the “Super probiorice capsule” from Korea Invention Promotion association (KIPA) at “The

10th International Exhibition of Inventions and the 3rd World Invention and Innovation

Forum” (IEI 2018) on September 13-15, 2018 in Forsan, China.


Assoc. Prof. Dr. Maryna KRYVTSOVA

Department of Genetic, Plant Physiology and Microbiology,

Uzhhorod National University, UKRAINE

In 2012 was elected to the position of the associate professor of

the Department of Genetic, Plant Physiology and Microbiology

Uzhhorod National University. The academic status of the associate professor of the

Department Genetic, Plant Physiology and Microbiology is given in 2011. She received her

Ph.D. Microbiology Danylo Zabolotny Institute of Microbiology and virology National

Academy of Science of Ucraine in 2006. She is a member of Ukrainian Society of

Microbiologists. Specialized areas are ecology of microoganisms, microbiology and.

medicine biology. She has studies of influence of medicinal plants extracts and essential oils

on antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria; Antimicrobial and antibiofilm properties of

medicinal plants, and possibility of application and complement of the antimicrobial activity

of extracts of medicinal plants and probiotics; Impact of plant extracts on microbiota of the

oral cavity and intestine; Soil microbiology. She has significant collaborations with

Nyíregyháza University, Hungary Prešov University, Slovakia, University of Veterinary

Medicine and Pharmacy in Košice, Slovakia, Kilis 7 Aralık University, Turkish republic,

Universitatea de Stiinte Agricole si Medicina Veterinara Cluj-Napoca, Romania, University in

Tiaret, Algeria.


Prof. Dr. Takashi WATANABE

Department of Medicinal Plant, Graduate School of

Pharmaceutical Sciences/Global Center for Natural Resources

Sciences, Kumamoto University, JAPAN

Watanabe graduated from Faculty of Pharmaceutical Science,

Teikyo University at 1983.

In 1999 he received Ph.D. from Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences,

Kitasato University.

Fields of Specializations are evaluation for the natural medicinal resources using both

chemical and molecular analysis, biotechnology, plant inventory, ecological study and

sustainable use of the medicinal plant resources, development assistance for herbal product.

He has numerous publications, articles and patents as well as significant honors and awards as

HMG/Nepal Award by MFSC/Physic Garden-Design, International Exhibition of Flower and

Green, Expo ‘90 in Osaka, October 1990,MITSUBISHI Bank International Foundation Grant-

in-Aid, Aid for JOCV and ex-JOCV members, Individual research grant in FY 1993, for

“Field Survey of the Medicinal Plant Resources in Kanchenchunga region of East Nepal and

Their Conservation.”, June 1993.


LIST OF ORAL PRESENTATIONS

TITLE OP NO

Risk Analysis Study with Fine Kinney Method in Beauty Centre Managment

Arzu AKBAŞ, Nergiz Üstünel KAVAL, Esvet AKBAŞ

FOP-01

Safety of Dermal Fillers: A Perspective Based on Composition

Umran Aydemir SEZER

FOP-02

Use of New Soft Material as Carrier for Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Mehmet ÇOLAK

OP-03

Evaluation of Novel Organogel as a Carriers: For Anti-Aging Cosmeceuticals

Gülbahar AKGÜLER, Gülşen KAYA, Mehmet ÇOLAK,

Ali Adnan HAYALOĞLU, Halil HOŞGÖREN

OP-04

Boron-containing Products in Pharmaceutical and Cosmetical Industry

İ. İrem Tatlı ÇANKAYA

ROP-05

Role of Anterior Direct Composites at Cosmetic Dentistry

İsmet Rezani TOPTANCI

FOP-06

Obtaining Allantoin from Snail Secretion of Helix Aspersa Type and It’s Use in

Cosmetics

Ali İhsan KARAÇOLAK, Fatih Mehmet EMEN, Ruken Esra DEMİRDÖĞEN,

Emine KUTLU, Derya KILIÇ, M. Emre GÜRLEK, Aslıhan Cesur TURGUT, Göktürk AVŞAR

ROP-07

The Importance of Algae as a Source of Natural Metabolites for Cosmetic Industry

Sevilay Cengiz ŞAHİN

ROP-08

Stability Tests for Creams Prepared with Salvia officinalis L. Oil

Aslıhan Cesur TURGUT, Şevkinaz KONAK

FOP-09

Examination of Pesticide Residues in Cosmetic Product

Ayşe UĞUR, Levent KAHRIMAN

ROP-10

Investigation of the Antioxidant Properties of Essential Oil and Hydrolate of Peels

Extract of Grapefruit (C. paradisi Macf.) Grown in Mersin Region

Derya YÜKSEL, Abdulcemal KAŞDAN, Fuat ARACI, Büşra AYDIN,

Fatih Mehmet EMEN, Göktürk AVŞAR

OP-11

The Use of Curcumin in Dermatologic Diseases

Şevkinaz KONAK, Aslıhan Cesur TURGUT, Fatih Mehmet EMEN,

Songül Tuğba ÜNER

ROP-12


TITLE OP NO

Encapsulation of Hyaluronic Acid and Lavender Oil to be Used for Cosmetic with

Electrospining Method

Emine KUTLU, Fatih Mehmet EMEN, Ruken Esra DEMİRDÖĞEN,

Ali İhsan KARAÇOLAK, Derya KILIÇ, Aslıhan Cesur TURGUT, Göktürk AVŞAR

FOP-13

Investigation of Antimicrobial Efficiency of Herbal Mix as Natural Preservative in

Lotion

Mehmet Onur TÜRKDOĞRU, Erol ARIKAYA, Ali Bahadır ÇELİK,

Nilgün BAYSAL, Selin SAYIN, İlker SAYGILI

FOP-14

Metal Pollution from Cosmetic Products and Its Effects on Human Health

İrem ERGİN, Özcan YALÇINKAYA

ROP-15

An Overview on Beauty and Herbal Cosmetics

Shirin TARBIAT

OP-16

Next Generation Safety Testing For Cosmetics: Genomic Allergen Rapid Detection

(GARD) for Skin and Air Respiratory System

Ahmet KATI

FOP-17

Herbal Cosmetics Products Market Development

Nazım ŞEKEROĞLU

OP-18


LIST OF POSTER PRESENTATIONS

TITLE

PP NO

Comparison of Nano Zinc Oxide and Zinc Oxide in Some Cosmetics Products Used

with Essential Oils

M. Kemal SANGÜN, Güray KILINÇÇEKER, Cemal TURAN,

Atilla ÇEKİÇ, Naim HABİBOĞLU

FPP-01

Using Propolis as an Antimicrobial Agent in Syrian Rue Herbal Cream

Neslihan ŞİRİN, Gülşah AYDIN, Nisa SİPAHİ, Tuğba Türken AKÇAY, Haydar GÖKSU

FPP-02

Investigation of Antimicrobial Efficiency of Herbal Mix as Natural Preservative in

Shampoo

Mehmet Onur TÜRKDOĞRU, Erol ARIKAYA, Ali Bahadır ÇELİK,

Nilgün BAYSAL, Tijen ZİYAL, Selin SAYIN, İlker SAYGILI

FPP-03

Preparation of Organo-Inorganoclays for Different Cosmetic Applications and

their Characterization Using Zeta Potential and XRD Measurements

İldem AKIN, Hande ÖZSIR, Günseli ÖZDEMİR

FPP-04

Supercritical Carbondioxide Extraction of Bitter Orange (Citrus aurantium) Plant

Grown in Mersin Region: Investigation of Antimicrobial Effect and Usage in

Cosmetic Creams

Fuat ARACI, Derya YÜKSEL, Abdulcemal KAŞDAN, Büşra AYDIN,


PP-05

Supercritical Carbondioxide Extraction of Kumquat (Fortunella margarita) Plant

Grown in Mersin Region: Investigation of Antimicrobial Effect and Usage in

Cosmetic Creams

Abdulcemal KAŞDAN, Derya YÜKSEL, Fuat ARACI, Büşra AYDIN,


PP-06

Information Systems and Artificial Intelligence in Cosmetics

Hüseyin TURGUT

PP-07

Application of the Natural Extracts to Balance the Commensal Bacteria on Skin for

Cosmetic Product Development

Patcharaporn TIPPAYAWAT, Khaetthareeya SUTTHANUT

PP-08

Ferulic Acid: A Cosmeceutical Active Ingredient from Crops

Sukanya LUANG

PP-09

Antibody development and antibody trends in cosmetic industry

Chonlatip PIPATTANABOON

PP-10


TITLE

PP NO

Transdermal Protein Delivery Studies for Atopic Dermatitis Treatment

Derya Karagöz GİRİSGEN, Naz Zeynep Atay GÖK

RPP-11

Knowledge Levels of Graphic Symbols On Cosmetic Packaging By Different Target

Audience

Mutluhan AKYÜZ, Hami Onur BİNGÖL

FPP-12

Study of New Age Liposomes: Transethosomes

Canan GÜLER, Naz Zeynep Atay GÖK

FPP-13

Preparation and Characterization of Nanoemulsion of Marigold Extract

Gülgün Yener, Ümit Gönüllü, Ebru Altuntaş, Ashkan Kashefi

FPP-14



FOP-01 (FullText)

Risk Analysis Study with Fine Kinney Method in Beauty Centre

Managment

Arzu AKBAŞ

1, Nergiz Üstünel KAVAL

2, Esvet AKBAŞ

3

1Department of Occupational Health and Safety, Van YuzuncuYil University, Van, Turkey

2Ilkay, Common Health and Safety Unit, Van, Turkey

3Department of Chemistry, Van YuzuncuYil University, Van, Turkey

E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Occupational health and safety activities are carried out in order to protect employees from

occupational accidents and diseases and to ensure that they work in a healthier environment. As a

result of accidents, the employees, employers and the national economy suffer financial and moral

damages. To minimize accidents, regular information should be provided and possible risks should be

analyzed and necessary precautions must be taken. In this study, possible hazards that may occur in a

beauty center are predicted and the risks that may arise from them are determined. The identified risks

were analyzed using the Fine-Kinney method and the precautions to be taken to prevent these risks to

be realized were listed.

Keywords: Occupational health and safety, Fine-Kinney, Risk management

INTRODUCTION

Risk management is a part of occupational health and safety management system and refers to

organization and sustention of preventive actions focused on optimization of hazards and risks such as

prevention of accidents, injuries and occupational diseases. Workers should be protected from

occupational risks they could be exposed to. This could be achieved through a risk management

process, which involves risk analysis, risk assessment and risk control practices. In order to carry out

an effective risk management process, it is necessary to have a clear understanding of the legal

context, concepts, risk analysis, assessment and control processes and the role played by all involved

in the process. It is also desirable to base risk management on solid and tested methodologies.

Implementation of risk management is essential to the cosmetic industry because of increasing hazards

of modern process and facilities and more over harmful substances can emit to air or discharge to

water or dispose with waste. Therefore professional risk management must be a core of preventive

health and safety protection system in the cosmetic industry. There is a variety of methods that have

been developed to analyses risk originating from hazardous facilities and substances [1].

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The risk analysis activities involve;

Identification of hazards present in the workplace and work environment,

Identification of hazards discovered in previous risk management,

Identification of potential consequences of the recognized hazards – risks.

mailto:[email protected]


Several means can be used to support these activities.

For instance;

Direct observation – walkthrough,

Interviews with workers and managers,

Checklists,

Deviation analysis,

Energy analysis,

Job safety analysis,

Previous risk assessment data,

Employee (satisfaction) surveys.

Risk assessment is the process of evaluation of the risks arising from a hazard, taking into account the

adequacy of any existing controls and deciding whether or not the risks is acceptable [2]. Several

methods to perform risk assessment are available ranging from expert to participatory methodologies

and from simple to complex methods. The most preferred of these methods are;

1- Checksist: Also known as review method. It is based on the determination of the

conformity to the pre-prepared checklists. This method can be used in the preliminary stage of risk

assessment or it can be used in risk assessment alone.

2- What Happens: The method is based on the principle of reviewing potential hazards and

evaluating the consequences. Possible consequences of failures and risks are identified and

recommendations and solutions for each situation are identified.

3- Matris: is a method based on scoring by giving a numerical value to the probability of risks

and the severity of the result when it occurs. Because it is simple, it is preferred in many sectors.

4- Fine Kinney: Risks are scored by giving numerical values to the likelihood and effects of

risks such as Fine Kinney Method and Matrix method. Unlike the matris method, the frequency of

occurrence of risks is also included in the calculation.

5- Safety Analysis: The method based on the logic of observing and evaluating each work

separately in the work environment.

6- HAZOP: This method has been developed for this sector since a more comprehensive

method is needed due to the high risk potential of the chemical industry. Due to the high risks

involved in chemical production methods, each stage of production is specifically examined.

7- Error Tree: This is a logical diagram method that shows the connection between errors in

system and system components and unwanted events.

8- The FMEA: This is a highly effective numerical analysis method (isgnedir.com) that aims

to prevent errors before they occur.

In this study, a risk assessment report was prepared using a Fine Kinney risk analysis method. The

calculation method is given below.

Risk value= I x F x D

I= Probability, (0,2-10)

F=Frequency, (0,5-10)

D=Severity


Table 1. Probability Scale Value Category

0,2 Impossible

0,5 Poor

1 Low probability

3 Rarely

6 High probability

10 Very high probability

Table 2. Frequency scale

Value Explanation Category

0,5 Very rare Once a year or less

1 Quite rare One or several times a year

2 Rare One or several times a month

3 Occasional Once or twice a week

6 Often One or more per day

10 Continuous Continuous or more than hour

Table 3. Severe scale

Value Explanation Category

1 Must be considered Harmless

3 Important Minor damage, first aid

7 Serious Loss of working day

15 Very serious Disability, limb loss,

environmental impact

40 Very bad Death, disability, severe

disability

100 Disaster Multiple deaths, major

environmental catastrophe

Table 4. Decision and action based on risk level

Risk value Decision Action

R< 20 Acceptable Risk Emergency measures may not

be necessary

20≤R<70 Risk Action plan must be taken

70≤R<200 Important Risk Must be carefully monitored

and removed by annual action

plan

200≤R<400 High Risk Should be eliminated by taking

into the short-term action plan

R≥400 Very High Risk Take immediate precautions by

suspending work


RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Within the context of their general obligations, employers have to take the necessary measures for the

safety and health protection of workers, including prevention of occupational risks. This is a quite

basic principle in the law of many countries. For preventing occupational accidents, employers must

perform risk assessment regarding safety and health at work, and decide on protective measures to

take and, if necessary, on protective equipment to use. It is advisable that risk assessment should be

done at least every year or every time a change is introduced in the workplace, for instance due to the

introduction of new work equipment or procedure, or the use of a new chemical substance or

preparation. Risk assessment is a good practice that contributes to keep companies competitive and

effective. Risk assessment is a dynamic process that allows companies and organizations to put in

place a proactive policy for managing occupational risks. Therefore, risk assessment constitutes the

basis for implementation of appropriate preventive measures and, according to the Directive; it must

be the starting point of any Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) Management

system. An OSHA management system should be integrated in the company’s management system. It

is intended to develop and implement company OSHA policies and manage its OSHA risks [2]. Risk

assessment is a step in the OSHA risk management process.

Important concepts in risk management are the concepts of hazard and risk. A hazard is a source,

situation, or act with a potential for harm in terms of human injury or ill health, or a combination of

these [2]. Therefore, a hazard can be anything present in the workplace that has the potential to cause

an injury to workers, either a work accident or an occupational disease. Examples of physical

hazardous situations can be working on a ladder, handling chemicals substances or walking on a wet

floor. Examples of psychosocial hazardous situations are job content, job insecurity, isolation, bullying

or harassment, since employees’ health are affected by their perceptions and experience about work

organization and other related factors [2].

In this study, a risk assessment report was prepared using a Fine Kinney risk analysis method in

Beauty Centre (Table 5).

This method developed by W. T. Fine has been revised by Kinney and Wiruth in 1976 and updated

with the name "Practical Risk Analysis for Safety Management". This method is now known and

applied as the Fine-Kinney method. The fine-kinney method is one of the methods used to classify

risks. This method helps us calculate the priority order of the measure to be taken. It helps us transfer

auxiliary resources to the most important unit by priority order. Risks in this method are; probability,

frequency and intensity ratios are calculated and classified. According to these calculations, priority is

given to the measures. The method helps the system take better quality measures in risk analysis by

providing realistic outputs with data analysis of the workplace [3-7].



CONCLUSION

In the present study, the risks associated processes in Beauty Centre areas were assessed. In general,

the existing risks are either possible or acceptable according to the utilized risk categorization.

REFERENCES

1. Vtorushina, A. N., Larionova, E. V., Mezenceva, I. L., Nikonova, E. D. Risk Assessment at

the Cosmetic Product Manufacturer by Expert Judgment Method. Earth and Environmental

Science, 2017, (66) 012023.

2. British Standard Institutions, Occupational health and safety management systems –

Requirements, BS OHSAS 1800, 2007.

3. http://www.eren-enerji.com.tr/tr/kurumsal/eren-enerji/zetes-1 Son Erişim: 18.08.2018.

4. Erzurumluoğlu, K., Köksal, K., N., Gerek, İ., H., İnşaat sektöründe Fine Kinney Metodu

kullanılarak risk analizi yapılması, TMMOB İnşaat Mühendisleri Odası Bildiriler Kitabı.

5. Birgören, B., Fine Kinney risk analizi yönteminde risk analizi yönteminde risk faktörlerinin

hesaplama zorlukları ve çözüm önerileri, Uluslararası Mühendislik Araştırma ve Geliştirme

Dergisi, Ocak, 2017.

6. Özfırat, M., K., Yetkin, M., E., Şimşir, F., Kahraman, B., Uzunayak üretimindeki mevcut

tehlike kaynaklarının iş güvenliği açısından değerlendirilmesi, Madencilik, Mart, 2016.

7. http://www.nurdogan.net/finekinney_dosyalar/Fine_Kinney_Parametre_ve_Ornek.pdf Son

Erişim: 18.08.2017


FOP-02 (FullText)

Safety of Dermal Fillers: A Perspective Based on Composition

Umran Aydemir SEZER

1,2

1Suleyman Demirel University, Faculty of Medicine, Department of Pharmacology, Medicine,

Medical Device and Dermocosmetic Research and Application Laboratory-IDAL,

32260, Isparta, Turkey 2YETEM, Innovative Technologies Research and Application Center,

1Suleyman Demirel University,

32260, Isparta, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Dermal fillers are soft and injectable materials that are implanted under the skin. They can be used for

multiple purposes such as smoothing the wrinkles, lifting of cheekbones, volumization of the lips,

reshaping the nose and rejuvenation of the hands for aesthetic appearance. Dermal fillers are made of a

variety of biomaterials including synthetic and natural polymers and ceramics. The most widely used

substances for producing of dermal fillers is hyaluronic acid. Other commercially available dermal

fillers contain calcium hydroxylapatite which is a degradable bioceramic, collagen which is naturally

valid in body, poly-L-lactic acid and polymethylmethacrylate which are synthetic polymers, and

autologous fat. Calcium hydroxylapatite is naturally found in human bones. It has been used in

dentistry and reconstructive plastic surgery and for regeneration of bone defects which is resorbable in

a period of time. Polymethylmethacrylate is accepted as a semi-permanent filler. Poly-L-lactic acid is

a synthetic and completely degradable material which is also used in different medical applications

such as sutures, stents etc. Injectable dermal fillers can lead to side effects and may not be indicated

for people with certain conditions which are bleeding disorders or certain allergies. Impurities,

monomers, and endotoxins are among the risks of the dermal fillers. In this study, a safety profile with

a perspective based on composition of dermal fillers will be investigated.

Keywords: Dermal fillers, Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid, Calcium Hydroxyapatite, Poly-L-lactic acid,

Polymethylmethacrylate

INTRODUCTION

The trend of dermal filler applications has been growing rapidly in recent years because they offer the

rejuvenative and enhancing aesthetic appearance without requirement of surgical operations.

Additionally, applications of dermal fillers have lower cost and no recovery duration [1-2]. Dermal

fillers are used for a number of purposes including smoothing the wrinkles, lifting of cheekbones,

volumization of the lips, reshaping the nose and rejuvenation of the hands for aesthetic appearance.

PMMA, silicone, hydroxyapatite, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and polylactic acid (PLA) are used

materials for dermal fillers. To date, over 160 products have appeared with increasing of the

demand[3]. All dermal fillers have risk factor for both short-duration and long-duration complications

and increasing number of applications expand the adverse effects day by day [3-4]. Most adverse

effects are mild and transient and have self-recovery ability. However, more serious adverse events are

also valid and those adverse effects leaves patients with long-lasting or permanent functional and

aesthetic deficits [5].



In this study, an overview of adverse effects related to dermal filler applications from clinical

experiences was performed. The possible reasons and treatments were also explained.


There are various adverse effects that have been reported. Bruising, edema (short-term post-traumatic

edema, antibody-mediated edema, Non-antibody-mediated edema, malar edema), skin discoloration,

(erythema, neovascularization, hyperpigmentation, dyspigmentation), infection, (Erysipelas and

phlegmon, abscess, herpetic outbreak), nodular masses (noninflammatory nodules, inflammatory

nodules-biofilms and foreign body granulomas-), paresthesia, vascular compromise (retinal artery

occlusion, tissue necrosis) are the most encountered.

Figure 1. Examples of adverse effects of dermal fillers (3).

Some of those adverse effects like bruising and short-term post-traumatic edema dissipate in short

duration. Others are required medicine therapy or medical treatments such as laser application.

CONCLUSION Dermal fillers are becoming more and more popular. However, adverse effects are

the reality and should be considered by both clinicians and users. Also, the clinicians should be aware

of the treatments and take emergent applications.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Thanks to the Suleyman Demirel University BAP (TSG-2018-6749 Project) for support.


REFERENCES

1. Dai, X., Li, L., Peterson, W., Baumgartner, R. R., Huang, J., Baer-Zwick, A., Hoeller, S.,

Ivezic-Schoenfeld, Z., Prinz, M. Safety and effectiveness of hyaluronic acid dermal filler in

correction of moderate-to-severe nasolabial folds in Chinese subjects. Clinical, cosmetic and

investigational dermatology 2019, 12: 57–62.

2. Cohen, J. J. Understanding, Avoiding, and Managing Dermal Filler Complications. Dermatol

surg 2008, 34: S92–S99.

3. Funt, D., Pavicic, T. Dermal fillers in aesthetics: an overview of adverse events and treatment

approaches. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology 2013, 6: 295–316.

4. Zielke, H., Wölber, L., Wiest, L., Rzany, B. Risk Profiles of Different Injectable Fillers:

Results from the Injectable Filler Safety Study (IFS Study). Dermatol surg 2008, 34: 326–3

5. Chiang, Y. Z., Pierone, G., Al-Niaimi, F. Dermal fillers: Pathophysiology, prevention and

treatment of complications, J eur acad dermatol venereal, 2017, 31(3): 405–413.


OP-03 (Abstract)

Use of New Soft Material as a Carrier for Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Mehmet ÇOLAK

Dicle University, Faculty of Science, 21280, Diyarbakır, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

The aim of this work was to identify a gel with suitable organoleptic and rheological properties

(spreadability, texture and viscosity) for topical administration, designed to allow controlable release

of the active principle. Cosmeceuticals are increasingly popular, with sales representing one of the

largest growing segments of the skin care market. These products are found in many forms, including

vitamins, peptides, growth factors, and botanical extracts. Cosmeceuticals that contain topically

applied vitamins have an increasing role in skin care. Amino alcohol based bis-

(phenylalaninol)diglycoholamide (DGA), a well-known LMWGs for organic fluids whose properties

have been reported in several papers, has been explored to develop depot systems and illustrated as a

topically delivery vehicle for well known anti aging vitamine E and vitamine C. FAE (Faty acid ethyl

and isopropyl ester) with different chain lenghts, ethyl laurate (LEE), ethyl myristate (MEE), ethyl

palmitate (PEE), isopropyl laurate (LIE), isopropyl myristate (MIE), isopropyl palmitate (PIE); liquid

paraffine, dodecane and 1-decanol were chosen as biocompatible organic fluids which are used in

cosmetic industry. In this context, we attempted for the first time, using these gel base material as a

novel topical delivery vehicle for cosmeceuticals. Optimizing rheological behavior is therefore one of

the crucial steps in development of dermal cosmeceuticals delivery systems. In order to understand the

convenience of newly designed gelator as a carrier for topical cosmeceutical delivery vehicles; we

investigated rheological properties of these systems with respect to the, the gelation fluids, vitamine/

gelator ratios and vitamine – gelator interaction and formulation stability. Formulation stability,

rheological properties and matrix convinent for skin application were evaluated with IR spectroscopy

reometric techniqe.

Keywords: Gels, Vitamine E, Vitamine C, Cosmeceutical, Soft Material, LMWGs.

REFERENCES

1. Hameed, A., Fatima, G.R., Malik, K., Muqadas, A., M.Fazal-ur-Rehman, J. Med. Chem. Sci.

2019, 2, 9-16.



OP-04 (Abstract)

Evaluation of Novel Organogel as a Carriers: For Anti-Aging

Cosmeceuticals

Gülbahar AKGÜLER

1, Gülşen KAYA

2, Mehmet ÇOLAK

1,

Ali Adnan HAYALOĞLU2, Halil HOŞGÖREN

1

1 Department of Chemistry, Dicle University, 21280 Diyarbakır, Turkey

2 Department of Chemistry, İnönü University, Malatya, Turkey


ABSTRACT

A great variety of organic self-assemblies are known and several of them provide drug delivery

matrices. The present study describes the rational design and synthesis of amino acid-based

organogelator, which was systemically fine-tuned at the head group to develop convinent carrier

matrix for vitamine E. To understand the basic structural requirements of a low molecular weight

gelator, 4 analogous amphiphiles based on anti-tuberculastatic drug etambutol precursor, S-2-Amino-

1-butanol, and L-phenylalanine, L-leucine, L-isoleucine amino acids derivatives, S-phenylalaninol, S-

isoleucinol and S–leucinol amino alcohols, were used for construction of bis-(aminoalcohol)

oxalamides gelators (BAOAs): corresponding to (S,S-1), (S,S-2), (S,S-3), and (S,S-4) organogelators,

respectively. A great variety of organic self-assemblies are known and several of them provide

cosmeceutical delivery matrices. Amino alcohol based bis-(aminoalcohol) oxalamides gelators

(BAOAs), a well-known LMWGs for organic fluids whose properties have been reported in several

papers, has been explored to develop depot systems and illustrated as a topically delivery vehicle for

well known anti aging vitamine E. FAE (Faty acid ethyl and isopropyl ester) with different chain

lenghts, ethyl laurate (LEE), ethyl myristate (MEE), ethyl palmitate (PEE), isopropyl laurate (LIE),

isopropyl myristate (MIE), isopropyl palmitate (PIE); liquid paraffine, dodecane and 1-decanol were

chosen as biocompatible organic fluids which are used in cosmetic industry. In this context, we

attempted for the first time, these gel base materials as a novel topical delivery vehicle for using

cosmeceuticals vitamine E. In order to understand convenience of newly designed gelator as a carrier

for topical cosmeceutical delivery vehicles; we investigated these systems their rheological properties

with respect to the gelation fluids, vitamine/ gelator ratios and vitamine – gelator interaction.

Keywords: Gels, Vitamine E, Vitamine C, Cosmeceutical, Soft Material, LMWGs.

REFERENCES

1. Raut, S; Singh, B. S; Uplanchiwar, V; Mishra, V; Gahane, A; Jain K.S. Lecithin organogel: A

unique micellar system for the delivery of bioactive agents in the treatment of skin aging Acta

Pharmaceutica Sinica B. 2012, 2 (1):8–15.



ROP-05 (Review)

Boron-containing Products in Pharmaceutical and Cosmetical Industry

İ. İrem Tatlı ÇANKAYA

Hacettepe University, Faculty of Pharmacy, Depertmant of Pharmaceutical Botany, Ankara, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Boron is a ubiquitous element found widely distributed in the environment and a normal component of

a healthy diet. Boron is an essential micronutrient for plants, and there is evidence to suggest that

boron is of nutritional importance. Advances in the field of boron chemistry have expanded the

application of boron from material use to medicine. Boron-based drugs represent a new class of

molecules that possess several biomedical applications including use as imaging agents for both

optical and nuclear imaging as well as therapeutic agents with anticancer, antiviral, antibacterial,

antifungal and other disease-specific activities. For example, bortezomib (Velcade®), the only drug in

clinical use with boron as an active element, was approved in 2003 as a proteasome inhibitor for the

treatment of multiple myeloma and non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma. Several other boron-based compounds

are in various phases of clinical trials, which illustrates the promise of this approach for medicinal

chemists working in the area of boron chemistry. It is expected that in the near future, several boron-

containing drugs should become available in the pharmacies with better efficacy and potency than

existing drugs. Boron nitride, an inorganic compound, is one of the most commonly used compounds

of Boron in Cosmetic Industry. It is reported to function in cosmetics, and used in many cosmetic

products as a slip modifier. It gives a sensation of softness as well as more or less perly shine. Boron

derivatives are listed in the European Union inventory of cosmetic ingredients. This presentation

discusses the current status of the development of boron-based compounds as diagnostic and

therapeutic agents in humans, as well as cosmeceuticals.

Keywords: Boron, boron-containing products, nutrient, health, pharmaceuticals, dental health,

cosmeceuticals

INTRODUCTION

Boron has atomic number 5 and is classified as a metalloid. It is an essential trace element for plants

that occurs naturally in the environment. It can be found in various forms combined with oxygen and

other elements in compounds such as boric acid, borates and borosilicates. Boron may also important

for the development of bone, cartilage and body calcium in humans, and the usual dietary intake in

human is from 1-2 mg/day. Plant products such as fruits, vegetables, tubers and legumes are a richer

dietary source of boron than animal products. Recognizing that boron has a biological activity, the

development of boron-containing compounds has generated considerable interest among medical

chemists. Boron-based drugs have been shown to have various biomedical applications.

Elemental boron was discovered in 1808 by French chemists Louis Joseph Gay-Lussac and Louis

Jacques Thenard as well as chemist Humpry Davy simultaneously by heating boron oxide (B2O3) with

potassium metal. William Nunn Lipscomb, Jr., American chemist was awarded the Nobel Prize in

Chemistry in 1976 for his work on boron structure to clarify chemical bonding problems. Herbert

Charles Brown is an English-born American chemist, and he won the 1979 Nobel Prize in Chemistry

for his discovery of the hydroboration method and his work on organoborane. Akira Suzuki, Japanese

chemist and winner of the 2010 Nobel Prize in Chemistry. He discovered palladium-catalyzed cross-

links in organic synthesis reactions and found the so-called Suzuki reaction. Suzuki modified the



technique of palladium catalysis of organic molecules by using a boron atom to transfer a carbon atom

to the palladium atom.

Turkey, which has the highest boron reserves in the world is followed by Russia, South America and

the United States. Approximately 5.7 million tons (2.7 million tons based on B2O3) of boron were

produced in 2016 in the world. Known boron deposits in Turkey which possesses appr. 73% of world

boron reserves; Eskişehir-Kırka, Kütahya-Emet, Balıkesir-Bandırma and Bigadiç. With the Law No.

2840, the task of producing, operating and marketing boron and boron products in Turkey is carried

out by Eti Maden. Boron products are used in 36% glass, 31% ceramic, 9% cleaning-detergent,7%

agriculture, 4% adhesive and 11% other areas in Turkey.

Boron in Agriculture

The essentiality of boron in plants has led to extensive biological use in agriculture. The mechanism

by which boron is taken up by plants is not fully known. It is known that boron is taken up by plants

primarily in the form of boric acid, H3BO3 and borates (H2BO3-), which is mainly dissociated by

passive absorption, as well as it is taken by active absorption, slightly, in the form of borate ions

B(OH)4-. Boron plays an important role in the movement and metabolism of sugars in the plant and

synthesis of plant hormones and nucleic acids. It also functions in lignin formation of cell walls.

According to the researches, boron is mainly carried upwards in xylem transmission pipes. Boron

uptake of monocotyledonous plants is generally lower than that of dicotyledonous plants.

Boron is one of the essential nutrients for the growth and development of cultivated plants. It is used

as fertilizer in agriculture (Micro feeder), and known that a large number of physiological processes

are affected in the deficiency of boron in plants and that the plant enters the degradation process. Its

deficiency is usually seen in old leaves. In this case, the formation, structural integrity and function of

the cell walls are damaged. Boron deficiency commonly results in empty pollen grains, poor pollen

vitality and a reduced number of flowers per plant, and occurs mostly in sandy and acid soils with low

organic matter. Some of the most sensitive plants to boron toxicity are peaches, vines, figs and beans.

Therefore, it is necessary to increase the added value by providing widespread and effective use of

boron in the agricultural sector. The biostatic properties at high doses have enabled their use in

biodeterioration control, against insects, fungi, algae and bacteria. The application of borates to crops,

to alleviate boron deficiency, has resulted in recognized increases in quality and yield.

Boron in Nutrients

According to the researches in the literature, foods rich in boron content are nuts, dried legumes (10-

45 ppm), fruits and vegetables (1-6 ppm). It is stated that cereals and potatoes contain less boron. Meat

and meat products, milk and dairy products and eggs (<0.6 ppm) are among the boron-poor foods. In

our country, the amount of boron was determined to be 1.05 ppm in tea, 14.33 ppm in Turkish coffee

and 9.33 ppm in red wine. The average boron content of hazelnut varieties was determined to be 18

ppm and it was suggested that Turkish hazelnut is a natural source of boron. In a study conducted in

Hatay province, thyme, mint, red cabbage, broad beans, quince, pomegranate and orange were found

to contain high concentrations of boron. It was determined that peanut, grape leaf, sour cherry and

quince contain high concentration of boron in food samples collected from boron production regions

in our country.

Boron in Food Supplements

According to the Dietary Supplement Label Database, there are 2357 different food supplements

containing boron. In the food industry; products contain calcium fructobate, boron citrate, boron

aspartate, or glycinate chelates, boron ascorbate and sodium borate. As a food supplement, for

example, boron is present in the form of boron sitrate in “Calcium Magnesium Plus Boron” (Solgar,

USA, New Jersey) in the market, and in the form of sodium borate in “Boron” (Holland & Barrett,

Nuneaton, United Kingdom).


Boron in Health

While boron is thought to pass into the mammalian cell by passive diffusion, a 2004 study

demonstrated that the Na+-coupled borate transporter (NaBCl) was specifically introduced into the cell

in the presence of sodium. It is expected that boron atoms introduced into biologically active

molecular frameworks may interact with a target protein through strong hydrogen bonds and very

small covalent bonds, which may produce strong biological activity (i.e., antifungal, antiparasitic,

protease inhibitors, etc). This is well supported by the literature. Boron-containing compounds are

generally weather resistant and do not require any special handling when testing. Furthermore, there

has been no reported toxicity, particularly in relation to boronic acid isolators.

Anticancer Activity

Bortezomib, a trade name of Velcade, is a boron compound from Takeda Pharmaceutical and is the

first proteasome inhibitor approved for the treatment of newly diagnosed multiple myeloma (MM). It

is a dipeptide boronic acid derivative. In addition to MM, this compound, alone or in combination, was

investigated for the treatment of solid tumors such as breast, lung, colon, prostate and pancreas

carcinomas. Bortezomib demonstrates anti-cancer activity by reversible and specifically inhibiting the

threonine residue of the 26S proteasome, which has a key role to regulate protein degradation in a

controlled manner.

Talabostat is a specific DPP4 (Dipeptidil peptidaz-4) inhibitor containing tumor-associated FAP. In

addition, it increases the production of cytokines and chemokines, stimulates the T-cell independent

antitumor activity of macrophages, neutrophils and natural killer cells, thereby increasing the

immunity of the tumor-specific T-cell. It has entered clinical trials as a drug combination with

docetaxel for the treatment of non-small cell lung cancer.

Boron Neutron Capture Therapy (BNCT)

BNCT a binary radiotherapeutic modality based on the nuclear capture and fission reactions that

occur when the stable isotope, boron-10, is irradiated with neutrons to produce high energy alpha

particles. BNCT has a unique property of tumor-cell-selective heavy-particle irradiation. BNCT can

form large dose gradients between cancer cells and normal cells, even if the two types of cells are

mingled at the tumor margin. This property makes it possible for BNCT to be used for pre-irradiated

locally recurrent tumors. Shallow-seated, locally recurrent lesions have been treated with BNCT

because of the poor penetration of neutrons in the human body. This application may be the reason of

choice especially in the treatment of neck and brain cancers because of the selective destruction of

malignant cells and their minimum harm to healthy cells.

For Alzheimer’s Disease

A novel series of boron-containing compounds were designed, synthesized and evaluated as multi-

target-directed ligands against Alzheimer's disease. The biological activity results demonstrated that

these compounds possessed a significant ability to inhibit self-induced Aβ aggregation and to act as

potential antioxidants.

In the treatment of certain diseases, small molecules are used to label and monitor a particular class of

proteins in a complex proteome that binds to the target enzyme group. Among the labeling

methodologies, the use of small molecule fluorophores is a great advantage. Of the boron-based

fluorophores, dipyromethene boron difluoride is the most common fluorophore used for this purpose.

It is used to detect neurofibrillary mixtures of hyperphosphorylated tau proteins responsible for

Alzheimer's disease. In this way, it is provided to identify the degenerated regions.

Antibacterial Activity

Boronic acids have proven to be effective inhibitors of beta-lactamases. A number of boron-containing

compounds possess strong antibacterial activity against the enteric group of Gram-negative bacteria.

Based on these information, a new method has been developed to enhance the antibacterial efficiency


of traditional antibiotics. Chloramphenicol-imprinted polymer particles were decorated with boronic

acid to improve their binding to both Gram-negative and -positive bacteria. The polymer particles

have a high antibiotic loading and provide a slow release of the antibiotic payload to deactivate the

target bacteria. The boronic acid modified polymer particles not only contribute to enhanced

antibacterial efficiency, but also have the potential to act as scavengers to remove unused antibiotic

from the environment.

Antifungal Activity

Tavaborole is a boron-containing small molecule with broad-spectrum activity against filamentous

fungi, including both mold and yeast. As a topical antifungal agent, it is used for the treatment of

onychomycosis (fungal infection of the toenails and fingernails). Tavaborole functions by inhibiting

Leucyl-tRNA synthetase, or LeuRS, an essential fungal enzyme required for protein synthesis and for

the catalysis of ATP-dependent ligation of L-leucine to tRNA(Leu).

Antiviral Activity

Anacor Pharmaceuticals has studied various boron-based compounds for the development of antiviral

agents against hepatitis C virus (HCV). This is a disease that affects more than 170 million people

worldwide and is the major cause of chronic liver disease, which can lead to cirrhosis, carcinoma and

liver failure. As HCV NS3/4A protease is vital for replication of the HCV virus, it has emerged as a

good therapeutic target for the development of anti-HCV agents. A novel series of macrocyclic HCV

NS3/4A protease inhibitors with alfa-amino cyclic boronates were designed and synthesized. The

importance of the boron moiety for activity was confirmed.

Antidiabetic Activity

The boron-based compound PHX1149 (dutogliptin), a low-molecular-weight and orally bioavailable

selective DPP4 inhibitor, has been investigated as an antidiabetic agent, and is currently in clinical

trials for the treatment of Type 2 diabetes mellitus.

For Atopic Dermatitis

Crisaborole ointment 2% (Eucrisa™) is a novel, anti-inflammatory inhibitor of phosphodiesterase 4

(PDE4) that is available in the USA for the topical treatment of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in

patients aged ≥ 2 years. It hasn’t been used in eyes, mouth, or vagina. Eucrisa is the first FDA-

approved topical prescription treatment for eczema in over a decade. Topical therapy with crisaborole

ointment 2% reduced disease severity and pruritus severity with the effect established early and

sustained over the course of treatment. Improvements in the other signs of atopic dermatitis (erythema,

exudation, excoriation, induration/papulation, and lichenification) were also seen.

For Otitis Externa

Boric acid is triturated in a mortar and dissolved in 30 ml of oxygenated water. Sodium borate is then

added to complete the dissolution. The solution is filtered to make up to 100 ml with oxygenated

water. Store in tightly closed containers between 15-30°C and airtight.

Boron in Dental Health

Coloring, especially in the anterior teeth, is a cosmetic problem that often needs to be corrected.

Although there are solution methods such as crown and laminate restorations, they are successfully

Eau oxygénée boriquée

Acide borique …… 2,5 g

Borax …………………. 0,50 g

Eau oxyegénée …..100,00 ml

https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/element/Boron

https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/ATP

https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-leucine


corrected with bleaching methods. Bleaching procedures are more conservative than other restorative

methods and can be easily applied. In addition, bleaching methods are less expensive than restorative

methods. Sodium perborate is easily controllable and safer than concentrated hydrogen peroxide

solutions. Sodium perborate is therefore the most preferred material for intracoronal bleaching.

Intracoronal bleaching is a popular technique used to improve the aesthetics of endodontically treated

teeth. A maximum of 30% hydrogen peroxide solution and sodium perborate are used separately or in

combination. However, a study has shown that, due to its negative effect on fracture resistance, high

concentrations of hydrogen peroxide should not be used as part of the bleaching process and, if

possible, in the treatment of intracoronal bleaching, sodium perborate, in particular the tetrahydrate

type, should be used and mixed with water. In addition, in some clinical studies, it was found that

sodium perborate was included in the toothpaste content and no roughness was observed during the

15-day use with a toothbrush. Turkish scientists have developed a dental implant using boron mine as

coating material with domestic technology with international patents. Implants made with new

technology will shorten the healing process of bone and increase durability.

Boron in Cosmeceuticals

Scientific literatures and reviews presented the safety of boron nitride as used in cosmetics. Boron

nitride is a white inorganic compound which may be in hexagonal or cubic form, and insoluble in

water. Hexagonal boron nitride is similar to graphite, and cubic boron nitride is the second hardest

known material, similar to diamond. Hexagonal boron nitride has a plate-like micro and layered lattice

structure. Boron nitride is reported to function in cosmetics as a slip modifier. Based on that function,

it appears that hexagonal boron nitride is the compound used in cosmetics. The average particle size of

hexagonal boron nitride powder for cosmetic purposes is 1-47 µm. In 2012, the Voluntary Cosmetic

Registration Program (VCRP) reported that 483 cosmetics contain boron nitride and the

concentrations up to 25% have been reported by the cosmetics industry.

The highest concentration of boron was reported in eye shadow formulations. It has been reported that

products containing boron nitride can be used in baby skins (lotions, oils, powders or creams), can be

applied to the eye area, taken orally or inhaled. Boron nitride has been reported to be used up to 25%

in eye formulations, up to 2% in lipstick formulations, up to 16% in powders and up to 0.9% in

fragrance preparations. However, boron components (boric acid, borates and tetraborates) are included

in the list of prohibited components in Annex II of the cosmetic directive of the European Union.

Nevertheless, in our country, it is still included in Annex III and can be used in cosmetics within

certain limits.

Sodium borohydride (NaBH4) is widely used in medical and cosmetic formulations, in the preparation

of facial creams, lotions, powders, ointments, hair preparations and mouthwashes. Boron-containing

products are preferred when the skin is dull, has insufficient smoothness, silky and sheen, as well as

the products, are unevenly distributed on the surface of the skin. Cosmetic compositions containing

boron nitride in the form of liquid or powder foundation, lipstick, eyeshadow, eyeliner and mascara

give the touch smoothness, giving a fine texture and natural glittering vitality. It also increases skin

adhesion. The average particle size of the boron nitride material should be between 1-47 micrometers.

It is often referred to as «white graphite» due to its slippery properties in carbon graphite form. Boron

nitride, known as one of the inorganic components of «mineral-based cosmetics» such as mineral

make-up, has accelerated mineral make-up applications and added longer-lasting properties. It is also

hypoallergenic, antibacterial and used for whitening.


In massage applications for providing long lasting softness, dermatologically tested medical materials

in the form of a coating layer prepared with an effective amount of boron nitride in a suitable carrier

can be used. Materials containing boron nitride particles in a non-aqueous carrier and suitably

covering the skin are obtained and provide good spreadability, easy rubbing and softening

applications. Boron nitride is also an important material to feel the heat transferred during massage, as

it has excellent thermal conductive properties.

Boron Toxicology

Boric acid and sodium borates are classified as toxic to reproduction in CLP Regulation "Category

1B" with the hazard statement "H360FD". This classification is based on the reprotoxic effects of

boric acid and sodium borates in animal experiments at high doses. However, boron-mediated

reprotoxic effects have not been established in epidemiological studies. The epidemiological study

conducted at the Bandırma boric acid production facility is the most comprehensive study published in

this field, involving 204 male employees voluntarily. Sperm quality parameters (sperm morphology,

concentration and motility parameters), FSH, LH and testosterone levels were determined as

biological markers of male reproductive toxicity in all participating workers. The results of

epidemiological studies (including the study in China) support the reduction of boric acid from

category 1B, H360FD to category 2.

CONCLUSION

The objective of this paper was to review some of the large scale applications of boron which interact

with biological systems. Boron is a ubiquitous element found widely distributed in the environment

and is a normal component of a healthy diet. Boron is an essential micronutrient for plants, and there is

evidence to suggest that boron is of nutritional importance for humans. Borates are a natural material

used extensively in science and technology and possess biostatic activity which enabled their use in


medicine and has allowed their continued development in the cosmetic sector. It has antiseptic and

antifungal properties and is used as a preservative. In the near future, some boron-containing drugs are

expected to have better efficacy and potential than those available on the market. Consideration of the

relative safety and effectiveness of borates is expected to lead to an increase in the use of these

products in the future. In the future, boron-containing organic compounds will play a significant role

in drug discovery and drug delivery systems.

REFERENCES

1. C Das B et al., Boron chemicals in diagnosis and therapeutics. Future Med Chem. 5 (6), 653-

676, 2013.

2. Cosmetic Ingredient Review, Safety assessment of boron nitride as used in cosmetics,

November 21, 2012.

3. Demirci S et al., Antibacterial and cytotoxic properties of boron-containing dental composite.

Turk J Biol. 39, 417-426, 2015.

4. Duydu Y et al., Is boric acid toxic to reproduction in humans? Assessment of the animal

reproductive toxicity data and epidemiological study results. Curr Drug Deliv, 13 (3), 324-

329, 2016.

5. European Commission. Cosmetics Directive (v.1). Boron nitride.

http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/cosmetics/cosing/index 2016. Date Accessed 22 July 2016. 6. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Frequency of use of cosmetic ingredients. FDA

Database. 2012. Washington, DC: FDA. Received in May 2012.

7. Gong H et al., Boronic acid modified polymer nanoparticles for enhanced bacterial

deactivation. Chembiochem. 2019. Doi: 10.1002/cbic.201900406.

8. Hoy SM, Crisaborole oinment 2%: A review in mild to moderate atopic dermatitis. Am J Clin

Dermatol. 18 (6), 837-843, 2017.

9. https://www.medimagazin.com.tr/dis-hekimi/universiteler/tr-turkiyeden-implant-teknolojisine-

bor-imzasi-3-31-72951.html

10. Kuru R and Yarat A., Boron and a current overview of its effects on health. Clinical and

Experimental Health Sciences, 2017. Doi: 10.5152/clinexphealthsci.2017.314.

11. Li X et al., Novel macrocyclic HCV NS3 protease inhibitors derived from alfa-amino cyclic

boronates. Bioorg Med Chem Lett. 20 (19), 5695-5700, 2010.

12. Lu CJ et al., Discovery of boron-containing compounds as Aβ aggregation inhibitors and

antioxidants fort he treatment of Alzheimer’s disease. Medchemcomm. 9 (11), 1862-1870,

2018.

13. Personal Care Products Council. 9-25-2012. Concentration of Use by FDA Product Category:

Boron Nitride. Unpublished data submitted by Personal Care Products Council. 2 pages.

14. Rahayu I, Cosmeceuticals and active cosmetics, 3rd Ed, 2016.

15. Sharma N and Sharma D, An upcoming drug for onychomycosis: Tavaborole. J Pharmacol

Pharmacother, 6 (4), 236-239, 2015.

https://www.medimagazin.com.tr/dis-hekimi/universiteler/tr-turkiyeden-implant-teknolojisine-bor-imzasi-3-31-72951.html

https://www.medimagazin.com.tr/dis-hekimi/universiteler/tr-turkiyeden-implant-teknolojisine-bor-imzasi-3-31-72951.html


FOP-06 (FullText)

Role of Anterior Direct Composites at Cosmetic Dentistry

İsmet Rezani TOPTANCI

Dicle University, Dentistry Faculty, Department of Paediatric Dentistry, Diyarbakir, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Physical appearance plays an important role in all stage of life. When evaluation of aesthetics, beauty,

and attractiveness are influenced by different factors. Body image, and psychologic situation effects

on social life and associations connected with appearance. Indeed, attractiveness appears to be

associated with achieving happiness in life. Research has shown that the more attractive a person is,

the more likely it is that he or she will achieve greater professional status, a higher income, and more

happiness. Today, Cosmetic dentistry has become increasingly popular, largely as a result of social

trends. But this desire for the alleged ‘perfect smile’ needs to be tempered with an appropriate

awareness of the significant risks associated with invasive cosmetic procedures. If they are young

patients should be fully informed that elective removal of healthy enamel and dentine can result dental

and periodontal problems in the longer term. Modern resin materials have opened a huge door of

opportunity for both dentists and patients by offering an aesthetic. Among the several resin-based

materials used for direct dental restorations, manufacturers offer a wide array of composites suitable

for anterior and posterior teeth. Dental restorations should ideally have harmony with adjacent teeth

and tissues. The aim of this study and small review is evaluate of dental anterior esthetical application

with composite resin restoration. In this study, anterior direct composite applications were evaluated in

patients who needed cosmetic and cosmetic dental treatment at different ages and genders.

Keywords: Anterior direct composites, Cosmetic dentistry, Composite laminate veneer, Smile

design, Nano-Hybrid composite.

INTRODUCTION

Physical attractiveness plays very important role in our life [1]. The real role of dental appearance

remains controversial within the dental profession and society at large. For generations, the pursuit of

facial beauty has interest of artists, philosophers and dentists [2]. The mouth is described as a “window

on the body” cause of many systemic health issues may manifest in the oral cavity [3]. Term of

“window” also holds true for the sociological impact of the mouth; judgements and assumptions about

social status and wealth may often be made based on dental appearance [4, 5]. This may be used by

society to state a person's value for perceived to place on self‐care that afflicted with dental disease,

and therefore have poor dental appearance [6]. Given the significance that is placed upon the esthetical

appearance of the mouth, it is not surprised that cosmetic dentistry has developed as a profession, with

recent cosmetic treatments becoming most popular dental treatments as a way of changing dental

appearance [5]. Like as an artist's views on art or like an architect's views on buildings, so it is that

many patients and dentists have different opinions on what constitutes dental beauty [2]. Sometimes

patients and dentists prefer the natural dental vision, while others prefer the “Hollywood white” and

“very even” appearance and this concept has become more popular recently. There is no doubt that

cosmetic dentistry, if performed skilfully on the right patients, at the right time, for the right reasons,



can give best results for many people. Word of "Cosmetic" is derived from the Greek word

"Cosmetikos" and its speaking means is ornamentation [2, 7]. In general, cosmetics used around the

face are temporary, transient and superficial, such as lipstick or eye shadow [2]. Nowadays cosmetic

dentistry term has become the popular and this term is described procedures that are provided

primarily to improve the appearance of the teeth, mouth, lips and face of patients' [1, 2, 8]. Standard

dental treatment helps to improve the appearance of caries teeth. But at cosmetic dental treatment can

be source of serious concern; there may be unnecessary destructive procedures can be used for

improve appearance of teeth and other structure [9]. Cosmetic dental applications can be biologically

risky and offer no obvious long term functional benefits [10-12]. Some researchers have suggested

that cosmetic dentistry, while improving appearance, does not to achieve enhanced function, whereas

aesthetic dentistry incorporates biological considerations and measures to achieve ideal form, function

and appearance, with a view to long-term performance and survival [7]. And this can be appear to be

increasingly provided in order to conform to a supposedly ‘cosmetically desirable’ ideal.

The procedures that are used vary in the levels of their invasiveness [1, 2, 8, 10]. They range from the

minimalistic approach such as straight forward changes in colour [2], which can be achieved by

bleaching techniques, through bleaching and bonding with direct resin composite [1, 9, 10], to the

provision of multiple porcelain veneers or crown restorations [8, 11, 12]. For achieved consistent

aesthetic results, appropriate surgical technique and the choice of materials are most important

parameters. Physical properties, handling capabilities, opacity, translucency, colour stability, and

polishability are play important roles at aesthetic outcome of the restoration [8]. Each material is

special at its platform and has its own place in achieving a beauty, but proper technique and the proper

choice of materials are combined, the result will leave the dentist and patient more than satisfied [7, 8].

Anterior direct composites were believed to be inadequate restorations that were not strong enough for

long time compare with the porcelain [13]. Composite procedures are actually less stressful for

dentists. Minimum tooth preparation is kept tooth structure and no impressions are necessary and there

is no retardation time because the laboratory stage is eliminated because of the procedure is under the

dentist’s complete control [8, 13]. Because of availability of multiple shades and different opacity

alternatives composite resins offer excellent aesthetic potential. New generation composite

restorations demonstrate good clinical longevity [7]. Composite resins restoration can be used for

improve the aesthetically appearance of misshapen, chipped or discoloured teeth and to replace older

restorations and composite resins can be used for cosmetic applications like veneers, diastema closure,

and to increase tooth length [7]. Direct composite restorations is applied and polymerized directly to

the teeth in same visit. For last two decade use of direct resin restoration by dentists is a popular

treatment option for aesthetic and cosmetic patients. İt is given the relatively low cost and single-visit

advantage [7, 8]. Direct approaches with composite resins are considered conservative because they

involve minimal, if any, preparation of the teeth to be treated [7, 14]. For several years, developed

composite materials are containing Nano fillers [7, 13, 14]. Nano-fill composites are universal

material, that exhibiting qualities of polishability and excellent surface smoothness [7]. Nano-fill

Composite materials are strong materials and demonstrate low shrinkage [7, 8]. Nano-fill composites

shows excellent surface smoothness and good colour if used as a universal anterior composites [15].

The use of direct anterior composites can create beautiful and permanent aesthetic results, from

routine restorations to complete veneering, and is minimally invasive dentistry [8].

The aim of this study and small review is evaluate of dental anterior esthetical application with

composite resin restoration. In this study, anterior direct composite applications were evaluated in

patients who needed cosmetic and cosmetic dental treatment at different ages and genders with using

Nano- Hybrid Composite.


In this study, anterior direct composite applications were evaluated in patients who needed cosmetic

and cosmetic dental treatment at different ages and genders.


Case 1:

An 20-year-old male patient was admitted to our clinic because of hypoplasy and discoloration of his

maxillary and mandibular anterior teeth (Fig.1). After oral and radiological examinations, we decided

to perform anterior direct composite application. As a coloured defect in the gingival margin of tooth #

11 was spread to the subgingival area, composite application was performed without disturbing the

integrity of the gingival margin. Miris2 System (Coltene, Altstätten, Switzerland) Nano-Hybrid

Composite resins were applied to the patient. After 6 months and 1 year visit, no coloration, fracture,

gingival problems or radiological changes were observed in the restorations.

Figure 1. Male patient with hypoplasy and discoloration of his maxillary and mandibular anterior

teeth before treatment.

Figure 2. Male patient with hypoplasy and discoloration of his maxillary and mandibular anterior

teeth after treatment.


.

Case 2:

A 32-year-old female patient was admitted to our clinic because of the aesthetic problem of her smile

as a result of diastema on her maxillary anterior teeth (Fig.3). After oral and radiological

examinations, it was decided to perform Anterior direct composite veneer application. Miris2 System

(Coltene, Altstätten, Switzerland) Nano-Hybrid Composite resins were applied to the patient. After 6

months and 1 year visit, no coloration, fracture, gingival problems or radiological changes were

observed in the restorations (Fig.4).

Figure 3. Female patient maxillary and mandibular anterior teeth before treatment.

Figure 4. Female patient maxillary anterior teeth after treatment.

Case 3:

An 55-year-old male patient was admitted to our clinic because wear and fracture of teeth due to

bruxism and discoloration of his maxillary anterior teeth (Fig.5). After oral and radiological

examinations, we decided to perform anterior direct composite application. As a coloured defect in the

gingival margin of teeth were spread to the subgingival area, composite application was performed

without disturbing the integrity of the gingival margin. Miris2 System (Coltene, Altstätten,

Switzerland) Nano-Hybrid Composite resins were applied to the patient. After 6 months and 1 year

visit, no coloration, fracture, gingival problems or radiological changes were observed in the

restorations.


Figure 5. Male patient’s maxillary and mandibular anterior teeth before treatment

Figure 6. Female patient’s maxillary and mandibular anterior teeth after treatment.

Figure 7. Miris

2 System (Coltene, Altstätten, Switzerland).



All teeth and restorations were evaluated as healthy at three patients during observation. There is no

discrepancy in colour, shade and translucency between the restoration and the adjacent tooth. There

was no evidence of staining penetration at the marginal interface and there was no evidence of spotting

on the restoration. We conclude that Anterior Direct Composite applications are more effective than

the other types of restorations, cause of they do not require any measurement or laboratory work, and

allow rapid changes in colour and shape. The cosmetically improvement of the smile is possible with

both direct and indirect techniques [16, 17]. The major procedures might require more than one

appointment but are preferred when a lots of teeth are involved in the treatment plan and exact tooth

re-shaping or colour changing is needed [18]. The aim of the minimally invasive dentistry with the use

of direct resin bonding is the preservation of tooth structure and tissues [8]. In cosmetically application

preparation, dentists should consider how conservative operation can be approach and how minimally

restoration can be done [7, 8]. It is really difficult for dentists to shape anterior teeth properly when

using Anterior Direct composite technique. For establish proper morphology, it is important to

recognize the relationship of tooth size and form to the facial structure and understand the relationship

of lip line to tooth size [8, 13]. Dentists must be remember that smile should follow the curvature of

the lip line and for the make a tooth more realistic is the real art of anterior composite dentistry [8].

Composites give dentists and patients a restorative option for cosmetic, minimally invasive procedures

that can be completed in one office visit [8, 18]. Nanofill are so close to a true universal material than

micro-fills and more proper for used anterior restorations [8, 15]. Media coverage of dental and other

oral cosmetic procedures has increased patient pressures on dentists to provide beautiful smiles [2, 19].

But according to a survey of the American Academy of Esthetic Dentistry stated that dentists

perceived overtreatment as being the biggest threat to aesthetic dentistry provision (33%) followed by

patients having unrealistic expectations (23%) [20]. That study results showed that an awareness

within the profession of ‘cosmetic dentistry’ decisions which are heavily influenced by the media and

patient expectations [21, 22]. Although cosmetic treatment wanted by patient, treatment must be

required balance of conservation of sound tooth tissue for the patients’ longer term function [2].

Studies showed that; when patients were asked on their preferences between direct composite and

more destructive indirect veneers for ‘cosmetic’ improvement there was no difference in perceived

improvement between the two treatment methods [23]. It must be underlined that patients with

congenital or acquired defects of the face and oral cavity (such as those problems caused by dental

trauma, cancer or cleft lip and palate, hypodontia and developmental anomalies of tooth formation) do

require appropriate aesthetic and functional rehabilitation with the aim of improving speech, function,

quality of life and aid integration into society [2, 24, 25]. The restoration of appropriate and youthful

tooth length and proportion also is have potential for treatment modality [26]. Cosmetic treatments,

such as veneers, teeth whitening and facial botox or PRP applications, are the instruments for getting a

desired cosmetic effect [5]. The artifically bright and white or perfectly arranged smile or puffy and

puckered lips are overt status symbols in their own rights and look for by many people for that reason

[5]. Anterior Direct Composite application is an alternative treatment way for patients who need

immediate dental cosmetic. But it is important that minimalist approaches is most important to provide

cosmetic.

CONCLUSION

The choice of a material to achieve cosmetic appearance to teeth is not always simple. Nano-Hybrid

composite materials are used in almost all types and sizes of cosmetic restorations in this study. This

materials are accomplished with minimal loss of tooth structure, little or no discomfort, relatively short

operating time, and modest expense to the patient compared with indirect restorations [8, 13]. The

lifetime of a direct aesthetic-cosmetic restoration depends on factors; the nature of defect, the

treatment procedure, the restorative material and technique used, operator skill and patient factors such

as oral hygiene, occlusion, caries risk, and adverse habits [13]. Nano-Hybrid Composite materials is


the best choice for the anterior aesthetic and cosmetic application and this material meets the patient's

cosmetic requirements quite well.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

No financial assistance was received during this study. All photos are original and no play or

corrections were made. Permission was obtained from each patient whose photos were shared and

consent forms were explained and signed with their consent.

REFERENCES

1. Höfel, L., M. Lange, and T. Jacobsen. Beauty and the teeth: perception of tooth color and its

influence on the overall judgment of facial attractiveness. International Journal of

Periodontics and Restorative Dentistry, 2007, 27(4).

2. Alani, A., et al., Balancing the risks and benefits associated with cosmetic dentistry - a joint

statement by UK specialist dental societies. Br Dent J, 2015. 2018, 9, 543-8.

3. Lewis, M.A.O., The mouth as a window on the body. Journal of Dentistry, 2009, 37(8): S571-

S573.

4. Bedos, C., A. Levine, and J.M. Brodeur, How people on social assistance perceive,

experience, and improve oral health. J Dent Res, 2009, 88(7): 653-7.

5. Holden, A.C.J.B., Cosmetic dentistry: A socioethical evaluation. 2018, 32(9): 602-610.

6. Moeller, J., et al., Assessing the relationship between dental appearance and the potential for

discrimination in Ontario, Canada. Ssm-Population Health, 2015. 1, 26-31.

7. Wilson, N. and B.J.V. Millar, Essentials of Esthetic Dentistry, Principles and practice of

Esthetic Dentistry. 2015, 1, 1-105.

8. Freedman, G.A., Contemporary esthetic dentistry. 2012: Mosby.

9. Rosenstiel, S.F., A.G. Gegauff, and W.M. Johnston, Randomized clinical trial of the efficacy

and safety of a home bleaching procedure. Quintessence Int, 1996, 27(6): p. 413-24.

10. Matis, B.A., M.A. Cochran, and G. Eckert, Review of the effectiveness of various tooth

whitening systems. Oper Dent, 2009. 34(2): p. 230-5.

11. Burke, F.J. and P.S. Lucarotti, Ten-year outcome of porcelain laminate veneers placed within

the general dental services in England and Wales. J Dent, 2009, 37(1): 31-8.

12. Burke, F.J. and P.S. Lucarotti, Ten-year outcome of crowns placed within the General Dental

Services in England and Wales. J Dent, 2009, 37(1): 12-24.

13. Heymann, H.O., E.J. Swift Jr, and A.V. Ritter, Sturdevant's Art & Science of Operative

Dentistry-E-Book. 2014: Elsevier Health Sciences.

14. Powers, J.M., R.L. Sakaguchi, and R.G. Craig, Craig's restorative dental materials/edited by

Ronald L. Sakaguchi, John M. Powers. 2012, Philadelphia, PA: Elsevier/Mosby.

15. Phillips, R.W., Phillips' science of dental materials. 2013, Elsevier/Saunders.

16. Korkut, B., F. Yanikoglu, and M. Gunday, Direct composite laminate veneers: three case

reports. J Dent Res Dent Clin Dent Prospects, 2013, 7(2): 105-11.

17. Horvath, S. and C.P. Schulz, Minimally invasive restoration of a maxillary central incisor with

a partial veneer. Eur J Esthet Dent, 2012, 7(1): 6-16.

18. Mangani, F., et al., Clinical approach to anterior adhesive restorations using resin composite

veneers. Eur J Esthet Dent, 2007, 2(2): 188-209.

19. Theobald, A.H., et al., The impact of the popular media on cosmetic dentistry. N Z Dent J,

2006, 102(3): 58-63.

20. Goldstein, R.E., Attitudes and problems faced by both patients and dentists in esthetic

dentistry today: An AAED membership survey. Journal of Esthetic and Restorative Dentistry,

2007, 19(3): 164-170.

21. Espelid, I., et al., Preferences over dental restorative materials among young patients and

dental professionals. European Journal of Oral Sciences, 2006, 114(1): 15-21.


22. Alani, A., K. Bishop, and S. Djemal, Decision-making in the provision of extra-coronal

restorations. Dent Update, 2013, 40(5): 378-80, 383-4.

23. Nalbandian, S. and B.J. Millar, The effect of veneers on cosmetic improvement. Br Dent J.,

2009, 207(2): E3; discussion 72-3.

24. Ramos-Jorge, J., et al., Impact of treated/untreated traumatic dental injuries on quality of life

among Brazilian schoolchildren. Dent Traumatol, 2014, 30(1): 27-31.

25. Gkantidis, N., et al., Aesthetic outcome of cleft lip and palate treatment. Perceptions of

patients, families, and health professionals compared to the general public. J Craniomaxillofac

Surg, 2013, 41(7): e105-10.

26. Morley, J., The role of cosmetic dentistry in restoring a youthful appearance. J Am Dent

Assoc, 1999. 130(8): 1166-72.


ROP-07 (Review)

Obtaining Allantoin from Snail Secretion of Helix Aspersa Type and Its

Use in Cosmetics

Ali İhsan KARAÇOLAK

1*, Fatih Mehmet EMEN

1, Ruken Esra DEMİRDÖĞEN

2,

Emine KUTLU1, Derya KILIÇ

1, M. Emre GÜRLEK

4,

Aslıhan Cesur TURGUT5, Göktürk AVŞAR

3

1Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Arts and Science, Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, TR

15030, Burdur, Turkey 2Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Science, Çankırı Karatekin University,

TR 18100, Çankırı, Turkey 3Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Arts and Science, Mersin University, TR 33100, Mersin, Turkey

4 Burdur Vocational School of Health Sciences, Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, TR 15030,

Burdur, Turkey 5 Food Agriculture and Livestock Vocational High School, Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, TR

15030, Burdur, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

The land snail Helix aspersa, also known as the garden snail, is a gastropod mollusk fromHelicidae

family. It is common in Europe and America due to appropriate inhabiting temperate, climate, natural

habitats. It is intensively farmed for human consumption and for production of industrial allantoin

which is carried out under ozone gas. Allantoin -the final catabolic product of purines in mammals-is

used in cosmetics and in medicine since it either has no or negligible toxicity and side effects. FDA

has declared allantoin a safe and effective active compound for dermal care even when present at 0.5-

2.0%. Allantoin is effective in skin soothing and cell regeneration as it removes corneocytes by

loosening the intercellular kit or the desmosomes responsible for binding of corneocytes to each other.

Keywords: Allantoin, Helix Aspersa, Cosmetic, Snail Slime

INTRODUCTION

Snails of various species, which have been used in different ways (i.e., crushed and powdered, grilled

and infused) and are considered to have medicinal value in the West for centuries since Ancient

Greeks [1]. The land snail Helix aspersa - known as the garden snail- is a gastropod mollusk is a

member of the Helicidae family [2]. It is very common in Europe and America due to inhabiting

temperate, climate and various natural habitats (i.e., tropical, desert). It is intensively farmed for

human consumption [3,4]. EU is the leading importer of terrestrial snails in the world because

traditionally it is commonly consumed in Mediterranean countries. Heliciculture is a lately developed

production sector and is legislated in Portugal since 2007 [5,6]. Helixpomatia Linné, Helixaspersa

Müller, Helixlucorum and species of the family Achatinidae are legislated as terrestrial gastropods.

Today skin care products containing different preparations and extracts of snail slime especially of

Helix aspersa Muller (H. Aspersa) are marketed under many different cosmetic and dermatological

brands [1]. However, despite the increasing interest in the skin-healing properties of the slime obtained

from H. Aspersa snails its overall composition is not fully elucidated. Studies showed that H. Aspersas



lime contains allantoin and glycolic acid [7], sulfated N-acetylglucosamine and glucuronic acid

probably as mucopolysaccharides [8], and choindritin sulfate as part of the head-foot tissue [9].

Nevertheless, the number of comprehensive studies on the general composition and structure of slime

with regard to its physical properties and function is very limited and is thus in the scope of this

Project. Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin) is a commonly used component of many cosmetics and over-

the-counter topical medications. It is classified as “safe and effective skin protectant" by FDA-OTC

Topical Analgesic Review Panel (category 1) [10] and has been known for fifty years [11,12].

Allantoin is preferred for enhancing the efficacy of cosmetic creams and lotions as result of its

keratolyticaction. Allantoin is used in psoriasis medications, shampoos, lipsticks, shaving creams and

lotions, toothpastes, suntan products, analgesic gels, hairgels, oral rinses and baby powders. Cosmetic

formulations typically contain 0.2% allantoin. As approved by FDA-OTC allantoin is a "soothing" and

"protecting" agent. At 0.5 - 2.0% levels allantoin is used for preventing and treating chafed and

chapped skin and lips. Allantoin (AL) -a metabolite derived from the degradation of purines through

urate (uric acid)- is found in both plants and animals [13]. In lower mammals, allantoin is produced

from urate after sequential action of urate oxidase (uricase), 5-hydroxyisourate (HIU) hydrolase, and

2-oxo-4-hydroxy4-carboxy-5-ureidoimidazoline (OHCU) decarboxylase [14]. Allantoin and its

derivatives have been used in various cosmetic preparations including skin creams, lotions, shampoos,

lipsticks, and shaving preparations. A suitable analytical method is requiredforroutinequalitycontrol as

well as stability studies in the pharmaceutical/cosmetic industry [15]. Snail mucus has been used in

medicine from ancient times for pain relief, the treatment of burn injuries, other injuries and various

diseases [16]. In the last decades research on secretions of the snail -Helix aspersa- have shown that

the content of the mucus contains an unusual combination of natural ingredients containing allantoin

and glycolic acid that would be beneficial for and effective in treatment of human skin [17,18].


Mucus of snail has been known for many years. It has been used in many different areas in the Old

Greek civilizations as wound dressing, sun burns. Today the content of the mucus can be enlightened

better via advanced analysis. In this study, Helix Aspersa –the garden snail, which is commonly found

in Middle and Eastern Europe- will be used and its mucus will be harvested. The content of the snail

mucus is 95% water, proteins, peptites, glycolic acid and allantoint. Allantoin is a product of uric

oxidation in many organisms including plants, animals and bacteria. Allantoin is obtained from

Symphytum officinale and snails. Its commercial value is approximately 200 TL/100 g. In recent years

it has beenwidelyused in sun creams, wound creams and in various face creams. Therefore, the

commercial value of allantoin is continuously increasing. In this study, allantoin will be obtained from

the mucus that will be obtained from the snails via collaboration between Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy

University Cosmetic Research Center (KOZAM) and Snailfarm. KOZAM was established via the

regulations published in the Turkish official gazette on 12.06.2016 with the issue 29740. KOZAM has

made a Project to put the university in the fore front with lavandula. This Project consists of two

stages. In the first stage, lavandula and sage seeds will be sawed. In the second stage, Cosmetic

Application and Research Center was established in 2019 via the support of the rector’s house. Snail

production center is established for to create an alternative income source by offering trainings to the

farmers in Burdur city and for producing snails at farm conditions.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This study is supported by Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University BAP undertheprojectnumber 0510-

AYDEP-18 and 2017K12000-003


REFERENCES

1. A.H. Svendsen, S.K. Larsen, J. Federico, M. Vélez, K. Ranum, P.E. Hansen, Chemical

analysis of the composition of stress induced mucus from Helix aspersa. Subject module in

Chemistry, 2016.

2. R. Teixeira, J. Barbosa, H. Albano, … C.M.-… S.& R., undefined 2018, Processing slime

from snail (Helix aspersa maxima): a preliminary study on the effect on microbial load,

pubs.ub.ro. (y.y.). http://pubs.ub.ro/dwnl.php?id=CSCC6201804V04S01A0001 (erişim 16

Kasım 2019).

3. Anonymous: GardenSnail - SnailFactsand Information 2017 [Online]

https://www.snailworld.com/garden-snail/, accessedJune 1, 2018;

4. P.C. Mezquita, P.E. Madariaga, Y.M. Segovia, A practical approach to preparation and meat

preservation by refrigeration or freezing of the land snail (helix aspersa müller), J. Muscle

Foods. 20 (2009) 401–419. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1745-4573.2009.00156.x.

5. A. Gabriel, Contributo para o estudo da segurança sanitária na helicicultura em Portugal,

(2013). http://www.repository.utl.pt/handle/10400.5/5381 (erişim 16 Kasım 2019).

6. R. Teixeira, J. Barbosa, H. Albano, C.M.-S.& R., undefined 2018, Processing slime from snail

(Helix aspersa maxima): a preliminary study on the effect on microbial load, pubs.ub.ro.

(y.y.). http://pubs.ub.ro/dwnl.php?id=CSCC6201804V04S01A0001 (erişim 17 Kasım 2019).

7. R.A. Messing, Simultaneously immobilized glucose oxidase and catalase in controlled‐pore

titania, Biotechnol. Bioeng. 16 (1974) 897–908. https://doi.org/10.1002/bit.260160704.

8. S.J. Pancakes, M.L. Karnovsky, The Isolation and Characterization of a Mucopolysaccharide

Secreted by the Snail, OteZZa Zactea*, 1971. http://www.jbc.org/ (erişim 17 Kasım 2019).

9. P. Hovingh, … A.L.P.P.B.B. and M., undefined 1998, Glycosaminoglycans in two mollusks,

Aplysia californica and Helix aspersa, and in the leech, Nephelopsis obscura, Elsevier. (y.y.).

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0305049198000443 (erişim 17 Kasım

2019).

10. FISHER, A. A, Current contact news (cosmetic actions and reactions : therapeutic, irritant and

allergic), Cutis. 26 (1980) 22.

11. J.S.-T. Eye, undefined Ear, N. and T. Monthly, undefined 1943, Nasal therapy with special

reference to a sulfonamide compound, (y.y.).

12. M.L.-D. and C. Industry, undefined 1938, Allantoin, (y.y.).

13. A. Werner, C.W.-T. in plant science, undefined 2011, The biochemistry of nitrogen

mobilization: purine ring catabolism, Elsevier. (y.y.).


2019).

14. Tipton, P. A., Blevins, D. G., Piedras, P., Pineda, M., &Polacco, J. C. (2005). Update on

ureidedegradation in legumes. Journal of ExperimentalBotany, 57(1), 5-12.

15. Z. Zaidi, F. Sena, C.B.-J. of pharmaceutical sciences, undefined 1982, Stability assay of

allantoin in lotions and creams by high-pressure liquid chromatography, Elsevier. (y.y.).


2019).

16. B.B.-E.-B.C. and Alternative, undefined 2005, Helix and drugs: snails for western health care

from antiquity to the present, hindawi.com. (y.y.).

https://www.hindawi.com/journals/ecam/2005/583043/abs/ (erişim 17 Kasım 2019).

17. S. Iguchi, T. Aikawa, … J.M.-B. and P.P., undefined 1982, Antibacterial activity of snail

mucus mucin, Pergamon. (y.y.).

18. R.A. Wilson, R.A. Wilson, An investigation into the mucus produced by Lymnaea truncatula,

the snail host of Fasciola hepatica, Comp. Biochem. Physiol. 24 (1968) 629–633.

https://doi.org/10.1016/0010-406X(68)91016-5.


ROP-08 (Review)

The Importance of Algae as a Source of Natural Metabolites for Cosmetic

Industry

Sevilay Cengiz ŞAHİN

Pamukkale University, Science and Arts Faculty, Molecular Biology and Genetic Department, Denizli E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Although the use of natural plants in cosmetic products dates back to thousands of years, this

phenomenon has become more important with the increase in the awareness of individuals in recent

times. At this point, algae species would be an important source due to their rich biodiversity and the

various secondary metabolites which are secreted in order to survive in various harsh conditions in

their evolutionary process. Unfortunately, the identification of the algae species’ natural components is

very limited and there is not substantial information about the content of many species yet. Nowadays,

many of the important cosmetic companies use some micro and macro algae species as moisturizers,

anti-aging products, whitening materials, thickening agent, and so on and these companies generally

protect their formulations with the patents. In the light of aforementioned information, it is obvious

that efforts should be focused on to determine the potential of promising algae species for the

cosmetics industry in order to gain a certain position in a constantly growing market.

Keywords:

Algae species, cosmetics, natural compounds, skin care products.

INTRODUCTION

While cosmetic industry has an important role in global market, according to the analysis of Research

and Markets, one of the main representative of the sector, it is expected that the international

cosmetics market revenue will reach up to 429.8 billion dollars in 2022 with an annual increasing rate

of 4.3 %. Global cosmetic market is divided into 3 regions as Europe, Americas and Asia-Pacific

[1,2]. The greatest market in the World is Europe with an annual value of 72 billion Euros. Europe is

followed by USA with 37.8 billion Euros and Japan with 29.3 billion Euros [3]. Cosmetic industry in

India, located in Asia-Pacific, is growing rapidly in recent years and India is drawn attention by

several international trademarks especially in natural-based cosmetic products [2].

Cosmetics are products that aim to improve the structure, morphology and appearance of the skin.

Notwithstanding, cosmeceuticals, although it is not an official term, are cosmetic products with

biologically active components that aim to ensure medical or drug-like benefit. With the help of the

bioactive ingredients contained, cosmeceutical products benefit the skin without exposing the side

effects of medicines [4-6].

The tendency to the products which include natural components is growing due to the increased

awareness of individuals currently, the interest of mankind to the products which improve its life

quality and the belief of individuals that the solutions of many problems are in the nature [5]. For this

purpose, even though terrestrial plants have been primarily preferred, the usage of algae has been

constantly growing owing to the enormous biodiversity (more than 72500 species in phylogenetic

classification) and their traditional applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Since algae

and plants don’t have a common evolutionary history, they display quite different biochemical

properties. Algae have a quite old evolutionary history and they produced several secondary

metabolites in order to adapt different and extreme environmental conditions in this period. Although



the cosmetic effects of some components in algae have been defined in recent years, most of these

components have not yet been studied and therefore have not been used in cosmetics industry [2,4,7-

9]. Currently, the most important resource of bioactive components in aquatic organisms is the library

of “The Dictionary of Marine Natural Products”. The data related to around 30000 purified

components are enlisted in this library. This number is increasing constantly, however it still lacks

data related to many other algae species [10,11].

The aforementioned bioactive components in algae species have been used in food, food additives,

medicine and cosmetic industries. The application of algae species in cosmetic industry will be

discussed in this review.

The Use of Algae Species for Cosmetic Applications

Marine algae species with their rich phytochemical content are currently used. These species adapted

very well to the extreme environmental conditions such as pH, high salt concentration, low and high

temperature, pressure, food starvation, and exposure to low and high solar UV rays. In order to endure

these harsh conditions, these marine algae synthesized several secondary metabolites [8,10,12-15]. On

the other hand, the chemical composition of the freshwater algae which are considered to grow in

much milder conditions is expected to be poorer as stated in a few studies [4,16]. Łęska et al. (2018)

stated that while the number of studies related to the bioactive components of freshwater algae is 33,

the number of counterpart studies related to marine algae is above 600. However these studies about

freshwater algae is promising and they can serve as an alternative for marine species [16]. In cosmetic

industry, the main disadvantage in the usage of especially marine algae is the difficulties in the supply

and maintenance of the specific conditions for the products with desired properties [10,11,17]. These

marine algae species are generally harvested from the freshest oceans of Japan, Brittany and Hawaii

[18]. 59% of these macro algae are brown, 40% are red and 1% are green [8,13]. Brown algae is the

most widely used group in cosmetic industry [16].

It is considered that the species, which are cultured in optimum conditions, uncontaminated and

continuously followed, are more convenient in the gain of higher quality and more sustainable raw

material for cosmetic industry [16]. The cultured species are generally microalgae and the first

cultured species is Chlorella, which was cultured in 1948 as a prediction of food deficiency due to the

baby boom period [19]. Microalgae have advantages over traditional plants in terms of efficiency, easy

extraction, bio-compatibility, raw material amount and growth independence of seasons. Indeed, they

don’t require arable lands and they have minimum negative environmental effects [2,8,20]. The

production of bioactive components from algae can be easily manipulated by altering culture

conditions.

In this review we will focus just on skin-care products. As the greatest organ of the body, skin,

protects it from the water loss and various environmental effects such as pathogens, chemicals and

solar UV radiation [8,20,21]. The valuable components such as proteins, lipids, polysaccharides, fatty

acids, pigments, vitamins, minerals and sterols obtained from algae species have antioxidant, anti-

aging, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective, depigmenting, moisturizers, thickening and etc. properties.

Algae extracts for moisturizers

Moisturizing the skin is the first step in dealing with problems such as loss of elasticity, the formation

of fine wrinkles, and so on caused by aging. Moisturizers generally increase the water content of the

skin by reducing transepidermal water loss [20,22]. In particular, hyaluronic acid (HA), which can

hold up water 1000 fold its own volume, has an important role in the retention of moisture in the skin

[5,8]. Zhao et al (2013) compared the moisturizing properties of sacran, a kind of polysaccharide that

is obtained from Aphanothece sacrum, a cyanobacterium, by Okajma et al. (2008) with HA. The

results showed that the viscosity and water absorption efficiency of sacran were higher than that of

HA. [20,23,24]. Exopolysaccharides from Nostoc commune have a significant potential as a

moisturizer [25]. Similar results were obtained for the polysaccharides from a brown algae named as

Saccharina japonica [26,27]. It is also known that the red algae Chandrus cripus and the green algae


Codium tomentosum are effective in preventing skin dryness [8]. The DNA which is extracted from

Undaria pinnatifida, Durvillaea antarctica and Ascophyllum nodosum species could be used for the

moisturization and the protection of the skin [3,8].

Algae extracts for skin ageing

Skin aging caused both by extrinsic factors such as smoking, UV radiation, pollution and so on and

intrinsic factors such as genetic and physiological changes leads several changes in the skin including

thinning, dryness, enlarged pores, wrinkles and etc [10,21,28]. Since the skin is composed of cross-

linked collagen and elastin, both a decrease in collagen synthesis and an increase in collagen

degradation leads to a significant aging of the skin. The inhibitors of collagenase, matrix

metalloproteinase and elastase enzymes, which promote aging by causing collagen and elastin

degradation, may be potential components for anti-aging products [2,5,21].

The anti-aging effects of Mayrocytis pyrifera [29], Eisenia bicyclis [2], Eclonia cava [2],

Haematococcus pluvialis [30], Chlamydocapsa sp [31,10], Chlorella vulgaris and Arthrospira sp

[8,32,33] are reported in scientific literature. The commercial products of Dermochlorella, Kalpariane,

Protulines and Depollutine which are currently on the market include sequentially the extracts of

Chlorella vulgaris, Alaria esculenta, Spirulina platensis or Spirulina maxima and Phaeodactylum

tricornutum extracts [2-4].

Algae extracts for photo-protectivity

With its powerful antioxidant system, the skin protects itself against damage caused by reactive

oxygen species (ROS). Unfortunately, the oxidants produced as a result of normal cellular metabolism

or an excessive exposure to UV-rays cannot be scavenged in some cases and therefore cause oxidative

stress. The resulting oxidative stress leads to damage in the structure of vital macromolecules such as

proteins, lipids and DNA [4]. The species of algae absorb the UV-rays rapidly and prevent ROS

formation thanks to the components of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), phycobiliproteins,

flavonoids, carotenoids, scytonemin etc [21,34]. Thus, they protect the skin against various problems

such as photo-aging, sunburn and skin cancer [8,10,14,35-38].

Photo-protective effects of Nannochloropsis sp, Spirulina sp, Haematococcus sp [10,39],

Phaeodactylum tricornutum [40], Nodularia sp [41] and Scytonema sp [42] are reported in the

literature up to date. The commercial products Helionori and Helioguard 365, which are currently on

the market, include Porphyra umbilicalis extract, and Megassane contains Phaeodactylum tricornutum

extract [2,3,28]. Shinorine and Porphyra-334, a kind of MAAs, also isolated from red algae, are

commercially available for use in sunscreens [18,20,43].

Algae extracts for skin-whitening

Skin whitening products are the largest and continuously developing field among all skin care

products [5,44]. The thought of direct relationship between white skin and beauty, especially in Asia,

makes the products of this group more important in the relevant region [8,45]. Melanin is a pigment

that gives colour to the skin and protects it against the harmful effects of UV-rays. However, increased

melanin production leads to the formation of dark spots on the skin. In order to cope with this

problem, the main target is the inhibition of tyrosinase enzyme [2,46,47]. The well-known tyrosinase

inthibitors are hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, and etc. There are many commercial products on the

market that have tyrosinase inhibitory effect. Since many of these products have various undesirable

effects such as mutagenic, carcinogenic, etc., it is emphasized that there is a need for reliable and

effective new components [48-51].

Fucoxanthin isolated from Laminaria japonica [6], Asthaxanthin from Haematococcus pluvialis [52],

Oscillapeptin G from Oscillatoria agardhii [53] and also the species of Ecklonia stolonifera [54],

Ecklonia cava [55], and Arthrospira platensis [56,57] are reported in the literature for their skin-

whitening effects. Whitonyl, Algowhite, Lightoceane and Seashine, the topical products currently

available on the market, include Palmaria palmata, Ascophyllum nodosum, Halidrys siliquosa, and


both Alaria Esculenta extract and Undaria Pinnatifida extract, respectively [3,5]. Table 1 lists

cosmetic companies which have an important place in the sector and their skin care products including

algae metabolites.

Table 1. Samples of commercial algae-based skin care products

Company Product name Used algae species Cosmetic application

La prairie La Prairie’s New Advanced

Marine Biology Eye Gel Brown and green algae

Anti-aging and

moisturizing

Lancome

ABSOLUE PREMIUM ßx –

Absolute Replenishing

Cream SPF 15 Sunscreen

Padina Pavonica Moisturizing and UV-

protective

Kate Somerville Oil Free Moisturizer Red Marine Algae Moisturizing

Bielenda

Professional

Bielenda Professional Face

Algae Mask with Spirulina

Spirulina sp and alginate

(100% extract from brown

algae)

Moisturizing and skin-

tightening

Algenist

GENIUS Ultimate Anti-

Aging Cream

(several products)

Chlorella protothecoides Anti- aging

Osea OSEA Eyes and Lips Chondrus Crispus Anti-aging

Codif Technologie

& naturelle Dermochlorella Chlorella vulgaris Anti-aging

Seppic Kalpariane Alaria esculenta Anti-aging

Exsymol S.A.M.

Monaco Protulines

Spirulina platensis or Spirulina

maxima Anti-aging

Givaudan Depollutine Phaeodactylum tricornutum Anti-aging

Gelyma Helionori Porphyra umbilicalis Photo-protective

Mibelle

Biochemistry Helioguard 365 Porphyra umbilicalis Photo-protective

Givaudan Megassane Phaeodactylum tricornutum Photo-protective

Thalgo

La Beaute Marine

SPF50+ Age Defence Sun

Screen Cream Polysiphonia lanosa Photo-protective

Silab Whitonyl Palmaria palmata Skin-whitening

Codif Technologie

& naturelle Algowhite Ascophyllum nodosum Skin-whitening

Gelyma Lightoceane Halidrys siliquosa Skin-whitening

Seppic Seashine both Alaria Esculenta and

Undaria Pinnatifida Skin-whitening

L’Oreal Paris Pure Clay Glow Face Mask Red algae Brightening

Thalgo

La Beaute Marine Lumière Marine Macrocystis pyrifera Brightening


Algae extracts for other applications

In addition to the aforementioned properties, algae are used as antioxidants, anti-inflammatory and

antimicrobial components in skin care cosmetic formulations as a result of their high secondary

metabolite contents [5,8,18,21,58]. Certain algae species are added as thickening agents to cosmetic

products due to the presence of alginic acid and carrageenans in their structures [8]. Color pigments

such as chlorophyll, fucoxanthin, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin, phycoerythrin and phycocyanin can be used

in the production of colored cosmetics such as lipstick, eyeliner, nail polish, etc [3,4,8,16,34]. Due to

the role of iodine in lipolysis of fatty acids, high content of iodine in Gracilaria conferoides,

Sargassum kjellmanianum and especially Fucus vesiculosus and Laminaria digitata make the use of

these species suitable in cellulite treatment [3,5,18,59].

Although these algae-based products are intended to make the cosmetic products more reliable,

unfortunately this is not always the case. Therefore, the control of cosmetic products is inevitable. The

first administrative body to regulate the essential components used in the cosmetic industry was The

US Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FFDCA) in 1938. Afterwards, some legal arrangements were

made as a result of the use of algae in many commercial firms. In quality control of algae-based

products, some standard quality management systems are used which are determined according to

differences in regional and national norms: World Health Organization (WHO), Health Canada (HC),

US Food and Drug Administration (US FDA), Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) certification and

ISO 9001-2000 norm. The efficacy and safety of the final product obtained at the end of all these

processes should be evaluated under clinical conditions [2,5,10,18].

CONCLUSIONS

Taking into account the wishes of their customers, representatives of the cosmetics industry are

increasingly devoting their time and money in order to obtain and use natural ingredients in their

products. At this point, algae with their unique biodiversity can be an important resource. Very few

algae species are commercially used in the cosmetic industry. Therefore, this diversity, which has not

yet been fully evaluated, offers a potential opportunity for further cosmetic applications. Sector

representatives who are trying to obtain a competitive advantage from the cosmetic market are

continuing their researches rapidly about natural ingredients. In order to determine the real commercial

potential of the use of algae in the cosmetic sector, stability, compatibility and toxicological studies in

clinical conditions should be completed and evaluated with great care.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The authors are thankful to the Scientific Research Projects and Funds (PAUBAP), Pamukkale

University, Turkey (Project No: 2019KRM004-095) for providing support.

REFERENCES

1. World Cosmetics Market—Opportunities and Forecasts, 2014–2022, Research and Markets

(2016), https://www.researchandmarkets.com/reports/3275915/world-cosmetics-market-

opportunities-and. Accessed 15 October, 2019.

2. Gupta, P. L., Rajput, M., Oza, T., Trivedi, U., & Sanghvi, G. Eminence of Microbial Products

in Cosmetic Industry. Natural Products and Bioprospecting. 2019, 9: 267–278. DOI:

10.1007/s13659-019-0215-0

3. Couteau, C., & Coiffard, L., 2016. Seaweed Application in Cosmetics. In: Fleurence, J.,

Levine, I. (Eds.). Seaweed in Health and Disease Prevention. Academic Press, Cambridge,

Massachusetts, ABD. ISBN: 978-0-12-802772-1.

4. Mourelle, M. L., Gómez, C. P., & Legido, J. L. The Potential Use of Marine Microalgae and

Cyanobacteria in Cosmetics and Thalassotherapy. Cosmetics. 2017, 4(4): 46. DOI:

10.3390/cosmetics4040046.


5. Pereira, L. Seaweeds as Source of Bioactive Substances and Skin Care Therapy—

Cosmeceuticals, Algotheraphy, and Thalassotherapy. Cosmetics. 2018, 5(4): 68. DOI:

10.3390/cosmetics5040068.

6. Thomas, N. V. & Kim, S. K. Beneficial effects of marine algal compounds in cosmeceuticals.

Marine Drugs. 2013, 11: 146–164. DOI: 10.3390/md11010146.

7. Guiry, M.D. How Many Species of Algae are There? Journal of Phycology. 2012, 48: 1057-

1063. DOI: 10.1111/j.1529-8817.2012.01222.x.

8. Wang, H. M. D., Chen, C. C., Huynh, P., & Chang, J. S. Exploring the potential of using algae

in cosmetics. Bioresource Technology. 2015, 184: 355–362. DOI:

10.1016/j.biortech.2014.12.001.

9. Kelman, D., Posner, E. K., McDermid, K. J., Tabandera, N. K., Wright, P. R., & Wright, A. D.

Antioxidant activity of Hawaiian marine algae. Marine Drugs. 2012, 10(2): 403–416. DOI:

10.3390/md10020403.

10. Ariede, M. B., Candido, T. M., Jacome, A. L. M., Velasco, M. V. R., de Carvalho, J. C. M., &

Baby, A. R. Cosmetic attributes of algae - A review. Algal Research. 2017, 25: 483–487. DOI:

10.1016/j.algal.2017.05.019.

11. Kiuru, P., D'Auria, M. V., Muller, C. D., Tammela, P., Vuorela, H., & Yli-kauhaluoma, J.

Exploring marine resources for bioactive compounds. Planta Medica. 2014, 80: 1234–1246.

DOI: 10.1055/s-0034-1383001.

12. Skjånes, K., Rebours, C., & Lindblad, P. Potential for green microalgae to produce hydrogen,

pharmaceuticals and other high value products in a combined process. Critical Reviews in

Biotechnology. 2012, 33: 1–44. DOI: 10.3109/07388551.2012.681625.

13. Christaki, E., Bonos, E., Giannenas, I., & Florou-Paneri, P. Functional properties of

carotenoids originating from algae. Science of Food and Agriculture. 2013, 93: 5–11. DOI:

10.1002/jsfa.5902.

14. Pangestuti, R., Siahaan, E. A., & Kim, S. K. Photoprotective Substances Derived from Marine

Algae. Marine Drugs. 2018, 16 (11): 399. DOI: 10.3390/md16110399.

15. Kim, S.K., & Mendis, E. Bioactive compounds from marine processing byproducts-a review.

Food Research International. 2006, 39: 383–393. DOI: 10.1016/j.foodres.2005.10.010.

16. Łęska, B., Messyasz, B., & Schroeder, G., 2018. Application of Algae Biomass and Algae

Extracts in Cosmetic Formulations. In: Chojnacka, K., Wieczorek, P., Schroeder, G.,

Michalak, I. (Eds.). Algae Biomass: Characteristics and Applications. Developments in

Applied Phycology, vol 8. Springer, Cham. ISBN: 978-3-319-74702-6.

17. Sebök, S., Herppich, W. B., & Hanelt, D. Development of an innovative ring-shaped

cultivation system for a land-based cultivation of marine macroalgae. Aquacultural

Engineering. 2017, 77: 33–41. DOI: 10.1016/j.aquaeng.2017.01.005.

18. Fabrowska, J., Łęska, B., Grzegorz, S., Messyasz, B., & Pikosz, M., 2015. Biomass and

Extracts of Algae as Material for Cosmetics. In: Kim, S. K., Chojnacka, K. (Eds.). Marine

Algae Extracts: Processes, Products, and Applications. Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.

KGaA. ISBN: 9783527337088.

19. Joshi, S., Kumari, R., & Upasani, V. N. Applications of Algae in Cosmetics: An Overview.

International Journal of Innovative Research in Science, Engineering and Technology. 2018,

7: 1269–1278. DOI: 10.15680/IJIRSET.2018.0702038.

20. Morone, J., Alfeus, A., Vasconcelos, V., & Martins, R. Revealing the potential of

cyanobacteria in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals — A new bioactive approach. Algal Research.

2019, 41: DOI: 10.1016/j.algal.2019.101541.

21. Berthon, J. Y., Nachat-Kappes, R., Bey, M., Cadoret, J. P., Renimel, I., & Filaire, E. Marine

algae as attractive source to skin care. Free Radical Research. 2017, 51(6): 555–567. DOI:

10.1080/10715762.2017.1355550.


22. Derikvand, P., Llewellyn, C. A., & Purton, S. Cyanobacterial metabolites as a source of

sunscreens and moisturizers: a comparison with current synthetic compounds. European

Journal of Phycology. 2016, 52(1): 43–56. DOI: 10.1080/09670262.2016.1214882.

23. Zhao, L., Fan, F., Wang, P., & Jiang, X. Culture medium optimization of a new bacterial

extracellular polysaccharide with excellent moisture retention activity. Applied Microbiology

and Biotechnology. 2013, 97(7): 2841–2850. DOI: 10.1007/s00253-012-4515-0.

24. Okajima, M. K., Bamba, T., Kaneso, Y., Hirata, K., Fukusaki, E., Kajiyama, S. I., & Kaneko,

T. Supergiant ampholytic sugar chains with imbalanced charge ratio form saline ultra-

absorbent hydrogels. Macromolecules. 2008, 41: 4061–4064. DOI: 10.1021/ma800307w.

25. Li, H., Xu, J., Liu, Y., Ai, S., Qin, F., Li, Z., & Huang, Z. Antioxidant and moisture-retention

activities of the polysaccharide from Nostoc commune. Carbohydrate Polymers. 2010, 83(4):

1821–1827. DOI: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2010.10.046.

26. Wang, H. M., Chou, Y. T., Wen, Z. H., Wang, C. Z., Chen, C. H., & Ho, M. L. Novel

biodegradable porous scaffold applied to skin regeneration. PLoS One. 2013, 8(6), e56330.

DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0056330

27. Wang, J., Jin, W., Hou, Y., Niu, X., Zhang, H., & Zhang, Q. Chemical composition and

moisture-absorption/retention ability of polysaccharides extracted from five algae.

International Journal of Biological Macromolecules. 2013, 57: 26–29. DOI:

10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2013.03.001.

28. Couteau, C., & Coiffard, L., 2018. Microalgal Application in Cosmetics. In: Levine, I. A.,

Fleurence, J. (Eds.). Microalgae in Health and Disease Prevention. Academic Press,

Cambridge, Massachusetts, ABD. ISBN: 978-0-12-811405-6.

29. Leyton, A., Pezoa-Conte, R., Barriga, A., Buschmann, A.H., Mäki-Arvela, P., Mikkola, J.- P.,

& Lienqueo, M.E. Identification and efficient extraction method of phlorotannins from the

brown seaweed Macrocystis pyrifera using an orthogonal experimental design. Algal

Research. 2016, 16: 201–208. DOI: 10.1016/j.algal.2016.03.019.

30. Tominaga, K., Hongo, N., Karato, M., & Yamashita, E. Cosmetic benefits of astaxanthin on

humans subjects. Acta Biochimica Polonica. 2012, 59: 43-47. DOI: 10.18388/abp.2012_2168.

31. Schmid, D., Stutz, C. S., & Zülli, F. Use of an extract from snow algae in cosmetic or

dermatological formulations. U.S. Patent No. 8,206,721. Washington, DC: US Patent and

Trademark Office. 26 Jun. 2012.

32. Kim, S. K., Ravichandran, Y. D., Khan, S. B., & Kim, Y. T. Prospective of the cosmeceuticals

derived from marine organisms. Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering. 2008, 13: 511–

523. DOI: 10.1007/s12257-008-0113-5.

33. Spolaore, P., Joannis-Cassan, C., Duran, E., & Isambert, A. Commercial applications of

microalgae. Journal of Bioscience and Bioengineering. 2006, 101: 87–96. DOI:

10.1263/jbb.101.87.

34. Guillerme, J. B., Couteau, C., & Coiffard, L. Applications for Marine Resources in Cosmetics.

Cosmetics, 2017, 4: 35. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics4030035.

35. Pallela, R., Na-Young, Y., & Kim, S. K. 2010. Anti-photoaging and photoprotective

compounds derived from marine organisms. Marine Drugs. 2010, 8(4): 1189–1202. DOI:

10.3390/md8041189.

36. Nohynek, G. J., Antignac, E., Re, T., & Toutain, H. Safety assessment of personal care

products/cosmetics and their ingredients. Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology. 2010, 243:

239–259. DOI: 10.1016/j.taap.2009.12.001.

37. Rojas, J., Londoño, C., & Ciro, Y. The health benefits of natural skin UVA photoprotective

compounds found in botanical sources. International Journal of Pharmacy and

Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2016, 8: 13–23.

https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/a9f4/7cdcc63a25a0308f9c992e4bff09685b505d.pdf

38. Mercurio, D. G., Wagemaker, T. A., Alves, V. M., Benevenuto, C. G., Gaspar, L. R., & Maia

Campos, P. M. In vivo photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters,


vitamins, Ginkgo biloba and red algae extracts. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology

B: Biology. 2015, 153: 121–126. DOI: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2015.09.016.

39. Lotan, A. (2012). Biologic Sunscreen Composition. PCT/IL2011/000974.

40. Nizard, C., Friguet, B., Moreau, M., Bulteau, A. -L., & Saunois, A. (2007). Use of

Phaeodactylum Algae Extract as Cosmetic Agent Promoting the Proteasome Activity of Skin

Cells and Cosmetic Composition Comprising Same. US Patent Number: US7220417B2

United States.

41. Sinha, R. P., Ambasht, N. K., Sinha, J. P., Klisch, M., & Hader, D. P. UV-B-induced synthesis

of mycosporine-like amino acids in three strains of Nodularia (cyanobacteria). Journal of

Photochemistry and Photobiology B. 2003, 71(1-3): 51–58. DOI:

10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2003.07.003.

42. Rastogi, R. P., Sonani, R. R., & Madamwar, D. The high-energy radiation protectant

extracellular sheath pigment scytonemin and its reduced counterpart in the cyanobacterium

Scytonema sp. R77DM. Bioresource Technology. 2014, 171: 396–400. DOI:

10.1016/j.biortech.2014.08.106.

43. Borowitzka, M. A. High-value products from microalgae – their development and

commercialization. Journal of Applied Phycology. 2013, 25: 743–756. DOI: 10.1007/s10811-

013-9983-9.

44. Boonme, P., Junyaprasert, V. B., Suksawad, N., & Songkro, S. Microemulsions and

nanoemulsions: Novel vehicles for whitening cosmeceuticals. Journal of Biomedical

Nanotechnology. 2009, 5, 373–383. DOI: 10.1166/jbn.2009.1046.

45. Li, E. P. H., Min, H. J., Belk, R. W., Kimura, J., & Bahl, S. Skin lightening and beauty in four

Asian cultures. Advances in Consumer Research. 2008, 35: 444–449.

http://www.acrwebsite.org/volumes/13415/volumes/v35/NA-35

46. Cengiz Sahin, S. Scenedesmus obliquus: A Potential Natural Source for Cosmetic Industry.

International Journal of Secondary Metabolite. 2019, 6(2): 129–136. DOI:

10.21448/ijsm.545771.

47. Zolghadri, S., Bahrami, A., Khan, M. T. H., Munoz-Munoz, J., Garcia-Molina, F., Garcia

Canovas, F., & Saboury, A. A. A comprehensive review on tyrosinase inhibitors. Journal of

Enzyme Inhibition and Medicinal Chemistry. 2019, 34: 279–309. DOI:

10.1080/14756366.2018.1545767.

48. Curto, E. V., Kwong, C., Hermersdörfer, H., Glatt, H., Santis, C., Virador, V., Hearing, V. J.

Jr, & Dooley, T. P. Inhibitors of mammalian melanocyte tyrosinase: in vitro comparisons of

alkyl esters of gentisic acid with other putative inhibitors. Biochemical Pharmacology. 1999,

57: 663–672. DOI: 10.1016/s0006-2952(98)00340-2.

49. Akhtar, M. N., Sakeh, N. M., Zareen, S., Gul, S., Lo, K. M., Ul-Haq, Z., Shah, S. A. A., &

Ahmad, S. Design and synthesis of chalcone derivatives as potent tyrosinase inhibitors and

their structural activity relationship. Journal of Molecular Structure. 2015, 1085: 97–103.

DOI: 10.1016/j.molstruc.2014.12.073.

50. Serra-Baldrich, E., Tribó, M. J., & Camarasa, J. G. Allergic contact dermatitis from kojic acid.

Contact Dermatitis. 1998, 39: 86–87. DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0536.1998.tb05843.x.

51. Chen, W. C., Tseng, T. S., Hsiao, N. W., Lin, Y. L., Wen, Z. H., Tsai, C. C., Lee, Y. C., Lin,

H. H., & Tsai, K. C. Discovery of highly potent tyrosinase inhibitor, T1, with Significant

antimelanogenesis ability by zebrafish in vivo assay and computational molecular modeling.

Scientific Reports. 2015, 5: 7995. DOI: 10.1038/srep07995.

52. Kim, S. K. Marine Cosmeceuticals : Trends and Prospects. CRC Press, Boca Raton, USA,

2011. 428 p. ISBN: 9781439860281.

53. Sano, T., & Kaya, K. Oscillapeptin G, a tyrosinase inhibitor from toxic Oscillatoria agardhii.

Journal of Natural Products. 1996, 59(1): 90–92. DOI: 10.1021/np9600210.


54. Kang, H. S., Kim, H. R., Byun, D. S., Son, B. W., Nam, T. J., & Choi, J. S. Tyrosinase

inhibitors isolated from the edible brown alga Ecklonia stolonifera. Archives of Pharmacal

Research. 2004, 27: 1226–1232. DOI: 10.1007/BF02975886.

55. Yoon, N. Y., Eom, T. K., Kim, M. M., & Kim, S. K. Inhibitory effect of phlorotannins isolated

from Ecklonia cava on mushroom tyrosinase activity and melanin formation in mouse B16F10

melanoma cells. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 2009, 57(10): 4124–4129. DOI:

10.1021/jf900006f.

56. Wu, L. C., Lin, Y. Y., Yang, S. Y., Weng, Y. T., & Tsai, Y. T. Antimelanogenic effect of c-

phycocyanin through modulation of tyrosinase expression by upregulation of ERK and

downregulation of p38 MAPK signaling pathways. Journal of Biomedical Science. 2011,

18(1): 74. DOI: 10.1186/1423-0127-18-74.

57. Cengiz Sahin, S. The potential of Arthrospira platensis extract as a tyrosinase inhibitor for

pharmaceutical or cosmetic applications. South African Journal of Botany. 2018, 119: 236–

243. DOI: 10.1016/j.sajb.2018.09.004.

58. Patra, J. K., Rath, S. K., Jena, K. B., Rathod, V. K., & Thatoi, H. Evaluation of antioxidant

and antimicrobial activity of seaweed (Sargassum sp.) extract: a study on inhibition of

glutathione-S-transferase activity. Turkish Journal of Biology. 2008, 32(2): 119–125.

https://dergipark.org.tr/tr/pub/tbtkbiology/issue/11717/139925.

59. Morita, T., Niwa, K., Fujimoto, K., Kasai, H., Yamada, H., Nishiutch, K., Sakamoto, T.,

Godo, W., Taino, S., Hayashi, Y., Takeno, K., Nishigaki, T., Fujiwara, K., Aratake, H.,

Kamonoshita, S., Hashimoto, H., Kobayashi, T., Otosaka, S., & Imanaka, T. Detection and

activity of iodine-131 in brown algae collected in the Japanese coastal areas. Science of The

Total Environment. 2010, 408 (16), 3443–3447. DOI: 10.1016/j.scitotenv.2010.04.001


FOP-09 (FullText)

Stability Tests for Creams Prepared with Salvia officinalis L. Oil

Aslıhan Cesur TURGUT

1, Şevkinaz KONAK

2

1 Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, Food Agriculture and Livestock Vocational High School,

15100, Burdur, Turkey 2Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, Faculty of Health Sciences, Department of Nursing, 15100,

Burdur, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author; [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Salvia officinalis L. (medical sage) is a valuable medicinal and aromatic plant of the Lamiaceae

family. It spreads in Mediterranean countries from Spain to the Balkans. Although there are more than

900 sage species in the world, the species with the highest commercial value are; medical sage (S.

officinalis L.), anatolian sage (S. fruticosa Mill., syn. S. triloba L.), apple sage (S. pomifera L.),

spanish sage (S. lavandula efolia Vahl.) and musk sage (S. sclarea L.). Sage has the highest

distribution and one of the most trade show of the countries where Turkey. In addition, the sage can be

successfully cultured in Turkey, it gives high efficiency and quality of leaf drug. Medical sage; It

opens the appetite, facilitates digestion, diuretic, lowers blood sugar, mouthwash with hot tea when

mouth and throat inflammation is good, fresh leaves of sage is crushed and wound up on the wound is

accelerated healing.

In this study; medical sage (Salvia officinalis L.) cultivated on the campus of Burdur Mehmet Akif

Ersoy University was collected and fixed oils were obtained. Cream was prepared with this oil and the

parameters such as pH, viscosity, microbial activity of the creams were examined.

Keywords: Salvia officinalis L., Sage, Sage Oil, Cream

INTRODUCTION

Salvia is a genus belonging to Lamiaceae family, it is spread all over the world and the number of

species is defined as 900 by different researchers. Turkey ranks 13th in the world in terms of species

diversity and in Turkey's flora is known that the natural distribution of 87 species belonging to the

genus [1-4].

Salvia (Sage), whose first use in history in terms of its medicinal properties, dates back to the ancient

Greek and Roman times, is derived from the Latin word salus, which means health. It was used by the

ancient Egyptians and the Chinese to improve brain function. In the 12th century sage was described as

a true antidote, a panacea plant. In the 16th century; “If you planted sage in the garden, what's the

need to die?” sums up the important effects of this plant [5, 6]. Sage is a legend for its benefits; it was

used in the Arabian Peninsula for immortality and in the 14th century Europe for protection from

magics. It became the focus of attention in China in the 17th century [7]. Medicinal sage, which was

first used in history to prevent degradation of foods such as meat, which could not maintain its

freshness for a long time; In medical terms, it is started to be consumed as tea in sore throat and

kidney diseases caused by flu and flu. Oil externally has antiseptic, fungicidal effect is used in throat

and respiratory tract inflammation [8]. In addition sedative, a stomachic, diuretic, there are

antiperspirants and disinfecting effects [9]. It has such powerful effects; In 2001, it was chosen as the

plant of the year by The International Herb Association. Sage, which has aromatic effects in addition

to its medicinal effects, is also of great interest in the cosmetics sector due to the active ingredients it



contains. Salvia officinalis L. (medicinal sage) is usually used as a drug and the economic parts of the

leaves are evaluated [10].

Throughout history, human beings have sought various ways to beautify their body. The most obvious

example is the primitive communities painting their faces with vegetable or mineral dyes. Even in

early ages, women used plants to flourish. The tradition of Egyptian women painting their eyes with

special sticks with a mixture of antimony or lead, Arabs burning henna with spices, and coloring their

eyes with eye stick was perhaps the beginning of cosmetics. The Romans even used Atropa Belladona

plant, which made the pupils look big, for a while, taking a hazy view. According to Herodotos;

Seytes women also cypress-cedar wood and frankincense tree essence, on a hard stone by mixing with

water, make a paste and put this mixture on their faces, their bodies. This fluid was only removed the

next day. Thus, a pleasant smell remains in their bodies, and their skin gains softness and shine. In

ancient Egypt, we see that women use eyeliner to paint their eyelids and that Cleopatra is washed with

milk to whiten and soften her skin [11].

According to the definition given in the 2005 Cosmetic Regulation of the Ministry of Health; Cosmetic

product: To external parts of human body; epiderma, nails, hairs, hair, lips and external genital organs

or teeth and oral mucosa prepared for the sole or main purpose of these parts to clean, smell, change

the appearance, to keep them in a good condition or to correct body odor or mixtures [12].

Especially women; The primary goal of human beings from the past to the present has been to make

their appearance more attractive and to protect it. Throughout the historical process, cosmetics have

miracles that can best respond to human beings' desires. One of the primary products used in cosmetic

products is creams. Creams in cosmetics; plant extracts to the consumer as long as possible by

providing useful and long-term use. Although the first woman comes to mind when it comes to cream,

nowadays, especially moisturizing creams are preferred regardless of factors such as sex or age. This

high demand for cream also increases the importance of reliability. Ensuring the safety of cosmetic

products is made compulsory by Article 12 of the cosmetic regulation. Cosmetics; It is susceptible to

contamination due to the presence of water, which is one of the main ingredients in its content.

Microorganism growth in the products; effects such as viscosity disturbance, especially color, odor

change can be observed. The products do not have to be sterile, but it is important that the product

does not exceed the specified limits. Producers are responsible for maintaining adequate levels of

preservatives used in the product and using good production techniques to prevent microbial

contamination [13].

Since the first production of cosmetic products, many cases have been reported to be ill due to

contamination of the product [14]. Antimicrobial preservatives; In spite of any contamination during

or after the production of the product, the main bacteria are the chemicals that maintain the shelf life

added to the product in sufficient concentration to prevent the growth of the yeast microorganisms or

to prevent the degradation of the finished product. The amount of preservative is very important in

terms of both protecting the consumer from microorganisms and not causing toxic irritant effect or

hypersensitivity to the epithelial cells of the consumer. In addition, the preservative added to the

product must be effective at the lowest concentration, the product must be stable under varying

ambient conditions throughout its shelf life, be in stable compatibility with other ingredients in the

product, and be colorless, odorless, water soluble [15].

Vegetable mixtures, oils and extracts, which have been applied with simple methods for staying young

and beautiful for centuries, are now included in phytocosmetic products. Research shows that 30,000

different chemicals are used in cosmetic products. These chemicals are absorbed from the body and

accumulate in the body. In a study a woman with 515 chemicals on average (not too much) make-up

shows that the body carries. Cosmetic products can be absorbed through the skin and cause systemic

toxicity. Increased findings; It reveals that there is a connection between personal care-cosmetic

products and cancer-reproductive system problems, used in long-term and repeated doses [16].

In this study; medical sage (Salvia officinalis L.) cultivated on the campus of Burdur Mehmet Akif

Ersoy University was collected and fixed oils were obtained. Cream was prepared with this oil and the

parameters such as pH, viscosity, microbial activity of the creams were examined.



Collection of Sage Samples

The medicinal sage (Salvia officinalis L.) used in the study were obtained from the plants planted in

the project number 0510-AYDEP-18 on the campus of Mehmet Akif Ersoy University. After

collection, the samples were washed and dried at room temperature.

Oil Extraction

After collection, the leaves of the sage was washed and dried, grinded with the help of a mill and made

ready for extraction. Milled sage samples were put into screw cap bottles and oil ether was added to

pass the plant samples. The sage-petroleum ether mixture was placed on a shaker overnight and then

filtered. The solution which was separated from the plant residues was evaporated in the evaporator at

37 °C and 80 rpm. After evaporation, the remaining oil sample was filtered through 0.45 µm and then

vialed.

Preparation of Cream, pH and Viscosity Measurements

In preparing the oil phase, which is one of the cream forming phases, a new moisturizing cream was

obtained with medicinal sage oil included in the formulation. The pH of the cream with the new

formulation was measured by Mettler Toledo brand and S20K KIT model pH meter. Viscosity studies

were performed with Brookfield brand, RVDV-11 + PX model viscometer (Figure 1).

Challenge Test in Cream Prepared with Sage Extract In the cream formulated with sage oil; Microbial activities of Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 25923,

Escherichia coli ATCC 35150, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027, Candida albicans ATCC

10231 were investigated. Inoculation was performed at 106 level from all live microorganisms and

seeding was done on different days. The studies were carried out in accordance with TS EN ISO

11930 test method.

Figure 1. Laboratory photographs taken while preparing cream


The pH of the moisturizing cream that we formulated with sage oil was determined as 5.48, after the

average of three repetitions. Skin pH is normally acidic, with pH values ranging from 4-6, while the

body's internal environment is close to a neutral pH [17]. In this case, the cream we prepared is very

compatible with the skin pH and is in the desired pH range.

Viscosity decreased inversely proportional to rpm increase. When the viscosity values were examined;

It is seen that the sage cream we produce has non-Newtonian fluid properties.


Table 1. Viscosity Results

Sage Cream

Viscosity (mPa·s) Speed (RPM) Spindle

34.467 10 T-D - (RV Modeli)

18.267 20 T-D - (RV Modeli)

12.600 30 T-D - (RV Modeli)

9.700 40 T-D - (RV Modeli)

7.867 50 T-D - (RV Modeli)

6.600 60 T-D - (RV Modeli)

5.657 70 T-D - (RV Modeli)

4.950 80 T-D - (RV Modeli)

4.422 90 T-D - (RV Modeli)

3.993 100 T-D - (RV Modeli)

3.655 110 T-D - (RV Modeli)

3.356 120 T-D - (RV Modeli)

Sage Cream Challenge Test results are examined; Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 25923, Escherichia

coli ATCC 35150, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027, Candida albicans ATCC 10231 species

decreased logarithmically. According to the results of the challenge test on the product, no

microbiological problem was observed in the product. Logarithmic reduction was observed for all

bacteria and yeast species. In addition, logarithmic decreases occur in a short time such as 2nd and 7th

days, which increases the usage and storage quality of the product (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Challenge Test Chart

The ISO 11930 as new standard to evaluate the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product

includes a reference method to evaluate the preservation, as well as a decision diagram to evaluate the

microbiological risk [18].

As a result, in moisturizing cream re-formulized with sage oil; The pH, viscosity and challenge test

results were found to be of the desired quality.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Thanks a lot; Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University Scientific Research Projects Coordination Office

(project number 0510-AYDEP-18), SFA AR & GE ÖZEL SAĞLIK LTD ŞTİ., Emine KUTLU, Cahit

Burak KÜÇÜKİĞCİ, Mahmut DOĞANTÜRK, Orhan YAVUZ for their precious help to this study.


REFERENCES

1. Davis, P. H., & Tan, K. (Eds.). (1988). Flora of Turkey and the Aegean islands. Edinburgh

University Press.

2. Karaaslan, D. (1994). Salvia Populasyonlarında Farklı Azot Uygulamalarında Drog Verimi ve

Kemotaksonomik Araştırmalar, Çukurova Üni. Ziraat Fakültesi Tarla Bitkileri Anabilim Dalı

Yüksek lisans Tezi.

3. Arslan, N., Gürbüz, B., & Yılmaz, G. (1995). Adaçayı (Salvia officinalis L.)’nda Tohum Tutma

Oranı ve Çelik Alma Zamanı İle İndol Butirik Asidin (IBA) Gövde Çeliklerinin Köklenmesine

Etkileri Üzerine Araştırmalar. Tr. J. of Agriculture and Forestry, 19, 83-87.

4. Kulak, M., Şekeroğlu N. (2011). Farklı Tuz Uygulamalarının Adaçayı (Salvia officinalis L.)’nın

Gelişimi Üzerine Etkisi. Kilis 7 Aralık Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, Yüksek Lisans Tezi,

59s.

5. Karık, Ü. (2015). Eğer dikmişsen adaçayını bahçeye, ne gerek var ölmeye.

http://apelasyon.com/Yazi/229-eger-dikmissen-adacayini-bahceye-ne-gerek-var-olmeye. Access

Date: 25.08.2019

6. Dara, R. (2006). Vefalı Dostlarım Şifalı Otlarım, Alfa Yayınları.

7. Her Derde Deva Adaçayı!, https://www.utopyam.net/her-derde-deva-adacayi-adacayi-faydalari-

nelerdir-nasil-demlenir/, Access Date: 25.08.2019.

8. Zeybek, U. & N. Zeybek. 2002. Farmasötik Botanik. 3. Baskı, E.Ü. Ecz. Fak. Yayın. No.3, Ege

Üniversitesi Basımevi, Bornova-İzmir, pp. 378-382

9. Baytop, T. (1963). Türkiye'nin tıbbı ve zehirli bitkileri. İstanbul Üniversitesi.

10. International Herb Association, 2001. https://iherb.org/herb-of-the-year/, Access Date:

25.08.2019.

11. Gülgün, B. (2017). Güzelliğin tarihçesi ve kozmetik. TÜRKTOB, 70-73p.

https://www.turktob.org.tr/dergi/makaleler/dergi17/TTOB_Dergi17_WEB-70_73.pdf, Access

Date: 25.08.2019.

12. TİTCK. https://www.titck.gov.tr/faaliyetalanlari/kozmetik/kozmetik-mevzuati. Access Date:

25.08.2019.

13. Mevzuat Bilgi Sistemi Kozmetik Yönetmeliği, (2005).

http://www.mevzuat.gov.tr/Metin.Aspx?MevzuatKod=7.5.8157&MevzuatIliski=0&sourceXmlSe

arch=kozmetik, Access Date: 25.08.2019.

14. Kıvanç, M. (2012). Kozmetik Ürünlerde Mikrobiyal Kontaminasyon. 2. Kozmetik Kongresi

Kongre Kitapçığı, 17-19 Şubat 2012. Antalya.

15. Türkiye İlaç ve Tıbbi Cihaz Kurumu Kozmetik Ürünlerin Mikrobiyolojik Kontrolüne İlişkin

Kılavuz Sürüm 1.0. https://www.titck.gov.tr/mevzuat/kozmetik-urunlerin-mikrobiyolojik-

kontrolune-iliskin-kilavuz-surum-1-0-27122018172953. Access Date: 25.08.2019.

16. Ağalar Altınel, S. http://www.naturenurture.com.tr/blog-detay/neden-fitokozmetikler/, Access

Date: 25.08.2019.

17. Ali, S. M., & Yosipovitch, G. (2013). Skin pH: from basic science to basic skin care. Acta

dermato-venereologica, 93(3), 261-269.

18. Siegert, W. (2012). ISO 11930—A Comparison to other Methods to Evaluate the Efficacy of

Antimicrobial Preservation. SOFW Journal-Seifen Ole Fette Wachse, 138(7), 44.

http://apelasyon.com/Yazi/229-eger-dikmissen-adacayini-bahceye-ne-gerek-var-olmeye

https://www.utopyam.net/her-derde-deva-adacayi-adacayi-faydalari-nelerdir-nasil-demlenir/

https://www.utopyam.net/her-derde-deva-adacayi-adacayi-faydalari-nelerdir-nasil-demlenir/

https://iherb.org/herb-of-the-year/

https://www.turktob.org.tr/dergi/makaleler/dergi17/TTOB_Dergi17_WEB-70_73.pdf

http://www.naturenurture.com.tr/blog-detay/neden-fitokozmetikler/


ROP-10 (Review)

Examination of Pesticide Residues in Cosmetic Product

Ayşe UĞUR

1, Levent KAHRIMAN

2

1Pamukkale Üniversity, Education and Research Hospital, Department of Nuclear Medicine,

20160, Denizli / Turkey 2 Laber Kimya Ar-Ge San. Tic.,İzmir / Turkey


ABSTRACT

It is known that pesticides have been used from time immemorial. Parallel to the developments in the

chemical industry since the 19th century, different types of chemicals have been used more and more

as pesticides. Until of II.World War, a few substances were used in the chemical struggle against plant

pests. German scientists working on a new nerve gas in the II.World War have found an insecticide

(parathion) with organic phosphorus. II. World War went in history as the "War of Chemists". During

the war, researchers focused on the production of synthetic pesticides for use as biological weapons.

Pesticide use increased rapidly after 1940s.They are classified as insecticide (against insects),

herbicide (against weeds), fungicide (against fungi), bactericide (against bacteria), rodenticide (against

rodents), acaricide (against algae).

Figure 1. Turkey's Hurriyet newspaper from newspaper headlines dated 14.05.2018. "Ministry of

Health, Turkey Pharmaceuticals and Medical Devices of news related to the audits performed during

the first quarter of 2018."

42% of the chemical pesticide market in the world is herbicides, 29% is insecticides, 21% is

fungicides and 8% is other chemicals. While some of the pesticides do not cause toxicological harm,

some of them have carcinogenic, nervous system effect and even mutation-forming effects. The

unconscious use of pesticides produced for the disposal of pests brings along many negative effects

that threaten human health and the environment. For this reason, "The Pesticide Residues Codex

Committee" was established in 1960 by FAO and WHO. Up to 6% of the pesticide application

reaches the target organism, the remaining 94% reaches non-target organisms and soil in the

agroecosystem, and as chemical pollutants. The continuous use of pesticides poses three main

problems. The first is that some disease-causing organisms (especially insects) become resistant to

chemicals that affect them over time. This situation requires the use of high doses in the fight against

pests or the development of new ones instead of the chemicals that pests gain resistance. Second, some



pesticides do not readily biodegrade, but remain resistant to the environment in which they are applied

and transported. While this may be an advantage in controlling certain diseases, it is also a

disadvantage in terms of the movement of chemicals to other parts of the environment. This

constitutes the third problem by causing other living organisms other than harmful and disease-causing

organisms where chemicals are selected as targets.

Figure 2. Use of pesticides in agricultural fields (https://www.sorhocam.com/ pestisitler).

It is very important to comprehend the importance of the subject by stating the environmental

problems caused by the use of pesticides and their negative effects on human health. Pesticides show

toxicity by accumulating in the body. When they are taken into the body, some of them are dismissed

by the enzymes. According to Sumasanduram and Coats (1991), insecticides such as methamidophos,

chlorpyriphos-ethyl, parathion-methyl, diclorvos and endosulfan are included in the group of poisons.

Parathion-methy, diclorvos, carbaryl have the potential to pollute the air we breathe. Also Parathion-

methy and diclorvos have cancer-forming properties in humans. Parathion-methy, chlorpyriphosethyl

and endosulfan have the effect of affecting endocrine glands. Methamidophos may also have an effect

on chromosomes. In contrast to insecticides, fungicides do not present any serious hazards to acute

toxicity, but they are very important for chronic toxicity. These pesticides have adverse effects on the

endocrine system and nervous system as well as the presence of cancer-causing risks in humans. Even

though organochlorine pesticides are not frequently used in personal care products due to their high

toxicity, even personal care products have been a source of exposure since some products such as lice

shampoos used in the past contain these compounds.

Consumers' interest in herbal cosmetics is increasing due to the decline in belief in modern cosmetics

and the belief that herbal medicines are natural and superior to man-made synthetic cosmetics. As part

of this trend, the green is called "Greensumer". Consumers' interest in green, symbolized by organic,

eco, organic and green, continues to increase. It is possible to find an extract from plants in the

composition of almost any cosmetic product. For example, there are plants with severe toxic effects

that should not contain cosmetic products (Aconitum napellus L., Conium maculatum L., Juniperus

sabina L., Solanum nigrum L., Laurus nobilis L.). Therefore, the fact that plants are used in cosmetic

products requires that they are known in every aspect. Most of the raw materials used in cosmetic

products using natural substances are extracts, oils and leaf juices. All of these components are mainly

plant-based and, in our experience, it is possible to find pesticide residues in the product in all three

uses.

In a study conducted in 2012 at the Korea Gyeonggi-do Health and Environment Institute, pesticides

were detected in 24 natural cosmetics products and 32 products (tonic, powder and oily products)

collected from retail stores. The components identified were 0.6 mg / kg permethrin, 11.7 mg / kg

tricyclazol and 0.05 mg / kg malathion respectively.

https://www.sorhocam.com/%20pestisitlerin-siniflandirilmasi


Table 1. Detected pesticide residues in samples (from the work of Eun-Mi Park et al.)

There is no clear provision in the definition of natural cosmetics in the Cosmetic Law (Law no.5324)

and companies use natural cosmetics as cosmetics made from 100% naturally grown substances and

use this definition to increase the added value of the products. Natural cosmetics include plant

extracts or plant oils. Since the raw materials are natural in cosmetics product using natural materials,

heavy bacteria and insecticides are likely to remain in the final product content.Monitoring of

pesticide residues in crops produced with plants is very important for public health, environment and

trade. Recent problems with customs have led to continuous and accurate monitoring and calculation

of pesticide residues in agricultural products as well as pesticides prohibited for certain products. The

laboratories performing routine residue analysis in our country are accredited by TURKAK (Turkish

Accreditation Agency) with ISO17025 quality system. In this system, the procedure starts from the

sample that comes to the laboratories and is responsible for the content of the sample. Pesticide

analyzes can be performed in various numbers of active substances, in 17 Provincial Control

Laboratories affiliated to the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs and 15 private food control

laboratories that have obtained work permits from the Ministry of Agriculture.Increasing analytical

performance in pesticide residue analysis necessitates the use of more efficient, less time and costly

analyzes. Analytical techniques, such as Gas Chromatography (GC), High Pressure / Performance

Liquid Chromatography (HPLC), are commonly used to determine whether such substances are

present in soil, air, water and food, and in what quantities is used as. When the literature is examined,

no research on pesticide analysis in cosmetic products has been found in our country. At the end of

this research, it is thought that pesticide residues should be the monitoring in cosmetic products made

with natural materials and legal regulations should be made by determining standard values in

cosmetic products.

Keywords: Cosmetics using natural materials, Pesticide residues, Biological agent, Chromatographic

analysis.

REFERENCES

1. Al-Taher, F., Chen, Y., Wylie, P. Reduction of Pesticide Residues in Tomatoes and Other

Produce. 2017, (December). https://doi.org/10.4315/0362-028X.JFP12-240

2. Ali, E., Mao, K., Liao, X., Jin, R., Li, J., Cross-resistance and biochemical characterization of

buprofezin resistance in the white-backed planthopper , Sogatella furcifera ( Horvath ).

Pesticide Biochemistry and Physiology, 2019, (April), 0–1.

3. Blair, A. Pesticides. Occuppational Studies Section. National Cancer Institute, 2002, Bethesda.

4. Bucker- Davis, F., Effectes of environmentanal synthetic chemicals on thyroid function.

Thyroid, 1998, 8: 827-856.

5. Colborn GL, Skandalakis JE Laparoscopic cadaveric anatomy of the inguinal area. Prob Gen

Surg 1995,12: 13–20.

6. Columé A., Cárdenas S., Gallego M. and Valcárcel M. Simplified method for the

determination of clorinated fungicides and insecticides in fruits by gas chromatography.

Journal of Chromatography A, 2000, 882, 193-203.

7. Council directive of 27 July 1976 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States

relating to cosmetic products (76/768/EEC).


8. Delen, N. and M. Yıldız, Fungicide resistance in Turkey. Neth. J. Pl. Path. 1981, 87: 253.

9. Delen, N., M. Yıldız and H. Manaite, Benzimidazole and dithiocarbamate resistance of

Botrytis cinerea on greenhouse crops in Turkey . Med. Fac. Landbauww. Rijksuniv. Gent,

1984, 49(2): 153-161.

10. Díez C., Traag W. A., Zommer P., Marinero P. and Atienza J. Comparison of an acetonitrile

extraction/partitioning and dispersive solid-phase extraction method with classical multi-

residue methods for the extraction of herbicide residues in barley samples. Journal of

Chromatography A, 2006, 1131, 11-23.

11. EPA, 1999 a. Summary of OPP reduced- risk pesticides initavite. US EPA, 2 pp.

12. Eun-Mi Park et al. Monitoring of Pesticide Residues and Preservatives in Cosmetics Using

Natural Materials, Journal of Food Hygiene and Safety, 2012, Vol. 27, No. 3, pp. 257-263.

13. FAO, Pesticide residues in food – 1993 FAO Plant Production Paper, 122.

14. Fenik, J., Tankiewicz, M., Biziuk, M. Properties and determination of pesticides in fruits and

vegetables. Trends in Analytical Chemistry, 2015, 30(6), 814–826.

15. Hirakawa, Y. Development of the Assay Methods for Pesticides by Immunological Technique.

2015. 16. Karabay, Ü., Investigation of toxic effects of some insecticides with sinergistical effect on

mammal systems, 2000, Ege University Institute of Science and Technology.

17. Sumasundaram, L., and R.J. Coats, 1991. Pesticide transformation products in the

environment. Edo.: Sumasundaram, L., R.J. Coats, R. J. ACS Symposium Series, Washington

D.C.

18. Shah, D., Benvenuti, M., Mccall, E., Joshi, S., Burgess, J. A. LC-MS / MS Analysis of

Pesticide Residues in Rice and Unexpected Detection of Residues in an Organic Rice Sample.

2009.

19. Tiryaki O. Nükleer ve Kromatografik tekniklerle pestisit kalıntılarının analiz edilmesi. VIII.

Ulusal Nükleer Bilimler ve Teknolojileri Kongresi, 15-17 Ekim 2003, Kayseri, Bildiri Özetleri

15 s.

20. Topuz, S., Özhan, G., Alpertunga, B. Simultaneous determination of various pesticides in fruit

juices by HPLC-DAD. Food Control, 2005.

21. Yiğit, N., Öktem, A.B., Yentür, G., Improvement of multi residue analysis method for

pesticide residues in some fruits and vegetables using high pressure liquid chromatography

(HPLC), Bitki Koruma Bülteni, 2012, 52(4):375-394.


OP-11 (Abstract)

Investigation of the Antioxidant Properties of Essential Oil and Hydrosol of

Peels Extract of Grapefruit (C. paradisi Macf.) Grown in Mersin Region

Derya YÜKSEL

1*,

Abdulcemal KAŞDAN

1, Fuat ARACI

1, Büşra AYDIN

1,

Fatih Mehmet EMEN2, Göktürk AVŞAR1

1Mersin University, Science and Letters Faculty, Department of Chemistry, 33230, Mersin, Turkey 2 Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, Faculty of Arts and Science, Department of Chemistry,


ABSTRACT

Turkey is one of the leading countries in plant trade with its geographical place, climate and plant

variety, agricultural potential, and wide surface area. Especially, Mersin region is a commercially

important location due to the plant variety and soil structure [1]. Essential oils and their by-product

and extracts of plants are being known used in many applications such as food preservation,

cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, alternative medicine and aromatherapy. Citrus genus grapefruit (C.

paradisi Macf.) to this applications has attract attention owing to bioactive components it contains

(such as phenolics, flavonoids, carotenoids, and vitamin C), nutritional, and antioxidant properties [2].

In cosmetics in case is the antioxidants are one of the most effective components that can stop radical

chain processes and help the skin repair systems and improve cell rejuvenation. The bioactive

components contained in grapefruit (C. paradisi Macf.) have been known that, skin photo-protective

and anti-ageing [3], protecting to UV-induced dermal damage [4], removal of metabolic wastes,

improvement of lymph circulation and anti-cellulite action [5] effects. In this study of the peels of

grapefruits (C. Paradisi Macf.) extract grown in Mersin region were extracted by Soxhlet extraction

system. Essential oil and hydrosol were obtaining by hydrodistillation method and hydrosol were

separated by density difference. Antioxidant properties of the obtained essential oil, hydrosol and

extracts were examined and have been determined that the have significant antioxidant effects.

Keywords: C. paradisi Macf., essential oil, extract, hydrosol, antioxidant.

REFERENCES 1. Avşar, G., Yüksel, D., Emen, F.M., Demirdöğen, R.E., Yeşilkaynak, T., Kahrıman, L.

Supercritical Carbondioxide Extraction of Lavandula Officinalis (Lavender) and Hypericum

Perforatum (Centaury) Plants Grown in Mersin Region: Investigation of Antioxidant and

Antibacterial Activities of Extracts and Usage as Cosmetic Preservatives in Creams, JOTCSA,

2019, 5(3): 1215-1220.

2. Girennavar, B., Jayaprakasha, G.K., Mclin, S.E., Maxim, J., Yoo, K.S., Patil, B.S. Influence of

Electron-Beam Irradiation on Bioactive Compounds in Grapefruits (Citrus paradisi Macf.). J.

Agric. Food Chem., 2008, 56, 10941–10946.

3. Nobile, V., Michelotti, A., et al. Skin photoprotective and antiageing effects of a combination

of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) polyphenols, Food &

Nutrition Research, 2016, 60(1): 31871.

4. Chiang, H-M., Lin, J-W. et al. Hydrolysates of Citrus Plants Stimulate Melanogenesis

Protecting Against UV-induced Dermal Damage, Phytother. Res., 2011, 25, 569–576.

5. Michalak, M. Aromatherapy and methods of applying essential oils. Arch. Physiother. Glob.

Res., 2018, 22(2): 25-31.



ROP-12 (Review)

The Use of Curcumin in Dermatologic Diseases

Şevkinaz KONAK

1, Aslıhan Cesur TURGUT

2, Fatih Mehmet EMEN

3,

Songül Tuğba ÜNER4

1Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, Faculty of Health Sciences, Department of Nursing, 15100,

Burdur, Turkey 2 Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, Food Agriculture and Livestock Vocational High School,

15100, Burdur, Turkey 3 Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, Faculty of Arts and Sciences, Department of Chemistry, 15100,

Burdur, Turkey 4 Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, 15100, Burdur, Turkey

E-mail of corresponding author; [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Skin, which is one of the important organs of the body, is increasing in importance in terms of an

aesthetic and healthy appearance. In recent years, skincare applications for healthy and youthful

appearance have become increasingly important. Vegetable-derived agents applied to the skin surface

for skin health have recently attracted attention. Although the history of herbal treatment dates back to

the oldest human existence, herbal medicine used today is derived from China and India. Although the

incidence is not known in our country, a large number of patients apply herbal treatments as well as

medical treatments. Curcumin used for herbal treatment is one of the most active polyphenolic

compounds and has an important place in traditional herbal treatments and ayurvedic medicine.

Curcumin takes place in the dietary spice turmeric obtained from Curcuma longa rhizomes.

Interestingly, curcumin has several useful properties such as anti-inflammatory, antioxidant,

antibacterial, antiparasitic, antiviral, chemopreventive and chemotherapeutic effects. It is used in the

treatment of psoriasis, acne, eczema, furuncle and cosmetics produced for the prevention of skin

aging. As a result, new studies and researches on curcumin, which is a powerful antioxidant that is

being used in the treatment of dermatological diseases, are needed.

Keywords: Curcumin, Dermatologic diseases, Herbal treatment

INTRODUCTION

Because skin is the organ that enables us to establish relations with the outside world, its integrity and

appearance are important. The skin, which is the largest and heaviest organ of the body, originates

from ectoderm and mesoderm in embryonic life. It constitutes approximately 16% of the body in terms

of weight. The main task of the skin is to protect the body from external factors. From the moment we

were born, our first point of contact with the outside world is skin. The responses of the skin to stimuli

have both physiological and psychological dimensions. Rashes may occur when in contact with any

allergen substance. It is manifested by changes in the skin in psychological emotions such as fear,

anxiety and shame [12, 24]. Skin, brain and mind; interacts with neuroendocrine and immune systems

[19]. This interaction balance changes in emerging dermatological and psychiatric diseases. As skin

diseases directly affect communication, sexual contact and physical interaction, emotional and social

life and close relationships of patients may be damaged. A person may become depressed, sad,

desperate and angry in the process that begins with ending his or her social life. These behaviors cause



the person to move away from his / her social environment and to restrict his / her life. Recent

researches have shown that skin diseases affect quality of life, self-esteem, body image, daily life,

families and social environment in various aspects, and secondary psychiatric symptoms such as

depression and anxiety are common [20].

Dermatological diseases

They are the most common diseases in the community and should be considered because of their high

morbidity. Skin diseases affect quality of life. It is known that one causes loss of work and income and

affects one third of the society. The frequency of admission to family medicine patients with skin

disease varies between 10% and 73% [17]. Acne, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis are the most

common skin diseases. Since dermatological diseases affect psychosocial health, there are many

studies about them [6]. Skin patients are treated in the hospital for 1-7 days. Skin diseases are rare

causes of death [22]. Chronic diseases of the skin diseases, the burden of disease and the incidence of

the disease increase the importance of the first step. Therefore, patients presenting with dermatological

complaints should be evaluated in terms of psychosocial characteristics and quality of life.

Herbal treatment

Complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) applications are many methods and treatments used

in addition to or instead of medical treatments.. The use of CAM methods has increased in recent

years in the world and in our country [7,9]. Herbal treatments and various methods, especially in the

field of skin diseases, have been used for a long time (4,14). Some substances that are thought to be

natural and harmless treatment methods may have side effects that may endanger life [8, 10,15].

Complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) is defined by the American National Center for

Complementary and Alternative Medicine as a variety of health care systems, practices and products

that fall outside standard medical treatments ” [7, 9]. Today CAM is used all over the world;

alternative medical systems (homeopathy, or traditional Chinese medicine), treatment methods based

on mind-body relationship (meditation, prayer, dance, art, music), biological-based treatments (herbal

treatments, dietary supports), manipulative and body-based treatments (chiropatic medicine, massage),

energy-oriented treatments (Ki gong, Reiki, touch) are classified under 5 main groups [7]. The

incidence of CAM in dermatology is reported to be 35-69% [4]. While it is not known exactly how

much benefit and harm the patients have from CAM use, it seems impossible to prove the reliability

and validity of these applications. Phytotherapy (phytos = plant, therapy = treatment) means herbal

treatment. The history of herbal treatment dates back to the oldest human existence. Herbal medicine

used today is derived from China and India. Medicinal herbs, which were first used by the public,

started to be preferred by medical doctors as an alternative treatment in the following years.

Commission E (German Federal Institute for Drugs and Medical Devices) prepared a report evaluating

the clinical effects of 300 plants in 1978 in Germany. According to this report, a standard for plant use

has been established [7]. The frequency of phytotherapy use in dermatology clinics in the United

States is 86% and in Germany 52% [9]. Although the frequency of use in our country is unknown,

medical treatments as well as herbal treatments are applied [4,14]. Therefore, it is important that

dermatologists are knowledgeable about phytotherapy. In this article, herbal treatments used in various

dermatological diseases and their side effects are reviewed.

Curcumin

Curcuma longa L. (Zerdaçal) is a yellow-flowered, perennial herbaceous plant that belongs to the

Zingiberaceae family and is widely found in India and China. Turmeric derived from the roots of this

plant has been used in India for centuries as spices, medicines and cosmetics. The main part that gave

its color to the tourmaline was isolated by Vogel in 1842 and named as curcumin. This plant contains

tetrahydrocurkumin that it is odorless, heat resistant, antioxidant compound [3]. The plant contains

three components known as curcuminoids. These are curcumin (77%), dimethoxycurcumin (17%) and

bis-dimethoxycurcumin (3%) (2). It has a melting point of 183 ° C and a molecular weight of 368.37 g


/ mol (Hatchera et all., 2008). Curcumin is known to have many pharmacological properties, including

anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antiapoptotic effects [13,16]. Due to its antioxidant

properties, it has been stated that it prevents damages caused by exposure to harmful factors such as

alcohol, drugs, radiation and heavy metals [21]. Because it is a good free radical scavenger and

hydrogen donor. In particular, it binds to metals such as iron and copper and acts as an iron clamp.

Curcumin is a non-toxic substance and shows limited bioavailability [11]. Depending on storage

conditions and usage, 3 grams of turmeric contain approximately 30-90 mg of curcumin. Turmeric can

be used in the form of powder-containing capsules, liquid extract and tincture by adults. Turmeric cut

root; 1.5-3 g per day, dried powdered turmeric root; 1-3 g per day can be used, a standard powder

(curcumin); 400-600 mg, can be taken 3 times a day. Liquid extract (1: 1) 30 to 90 drops per day; It is

recommended to consume 1 part daily in the morning and 1 part daily in the evening (1 part is 5ml).

Fresh turmeric can be stored for several weeks in a cool and dry place. When it is consumed with olive

oil, black pepper and chili pepper, its absorption is much higher. Turmeric has been used as a curative

among the people for centuries in different parts of the world. It is used as increasing the general

energy level of the body, reducing the gas, worm / tapeworm, facilitating digestion, regulating

menstrual cycle in women, eliminating gallstones and eliminating arthritis. It has many

pharmacological properties including anticancer, antiinflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial,

antithrombotic and antiapoptotic effects [13, 16]. It is also used for the preservation and sweetening of

foodstuffs (3It is preferred in Indian dishes, Turkish dishes such as ragout, kinds, and in all cuisines

such as noodles and pasta. It is used especially in salads, rice and meat dishes to increase the flavor

and the consistency of the sauce and to give the food a yellow color. It is mixed with honey and added

to the dishes. In addition, fish soup, cold cuts and various vegetable dishes as a condiment in this

product is made from the famous seafood "Spanish paella" and the Indian curry "sauce" is used [2]. It

is popular for use as tea in Asian countries, especially Japan (Tayyem et all., 2006). When used at the

recommended dosage, the flavor is better and the flavor is bitter when taken at higher doses and is not

preferred [5]. Curcumin used for herbal treatment is one of the most active polyphenolic compounds

and has an important place in traditional herbal treatments and ayurvedic medicine. Curcumin is found

in dietary spice turmeric from Curcuma longa rhizomes. Interestingly, curcumin has a number of

useful properties including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, antiparasitic, antiviral,

chemopreventive and chemotherapeutic effects. It is used in the treatment of psoriasis, acne, eczema,

furuncle and in cosmetics produced to prevent skin aging [1, 18].

As a result, the use of herbal treatments is becoming widespread today. Whether patients use a herbal

treatment should be questioned. Herbal remedies shown to be effective in evidence-based medicine

should be allowed to use under medical supervision.

REFERENCES

1. Aburjai T, Natsheh FM. Plants used in cosmetics. Phytother Res 2003;17: 987-1000.

2. Aggarwal BB, Kumar A, Bharti AC. Anticancer Potential of Curcumin: Preclinical and

Clinical Studies. Anticancer Research 2003; 23: 363-398.

3. Aggarwal BB, Sundaram, C, Malani N, Ichikawa H. Curcumin: The Indian solid gold. Adv

Exp Med Biol 2007; 595,1–75.

4. Algier AA, Hano¤lu Z, Özden G, Kara F. The use of complementary and alternative (non-

conventional) medicine in cancer patients in Turkey. Eur J Oncol Nurs 2005; 9:138-46.

5. Änderung L.Curcuma – Sechs Tipps zur richtigen Anwendung.Erişim (https://www.zentrum-

der-gesundheit.de/curcuma-anwendung-ia.html).Erişim tarihi: 13.05.2018.

6. Barankin B, Dekoven J. Psychosocial effect of common skin diseases. Canadian Family

Phsician 2002; 48:712–6.

7. Bedi MC, Shenefelt PD. Herbal therapy in dermatology. Arch Dermatol 2002;138:232-42.

8. Chen YF, Chang JS. Complementary and Alternative medicine use among patients attending a

hospital dermatology clinic in Taiwan. Int J Dermatol 2003; 42:616-21.


9. Ernst E. The usage of complementary therapies by dermatological patients: a systemic review.

Br J Dermatol 2000;142:857- 61.

10. Ernst E, CAM in dermatology: Telling fact from fiction. Int J Dermatol 2003; 42:979-80.

11. Hatchera R, Planalpb J, Chob F, M Tortia, Tortic SV. Review Curcumin: From ancient

medicine to current clinical trials H. Cell. Mol. Life Sci 2008; (65), 1631 – 1652.

12. Koblenzer CS. Psychosomatic concepts in dermatology. Arch Derm. 1983;119(6):501– 12. 11.

13. Kunnumakkara, AB, Anand P, Aggarwal BB. Curcumin inhibits proliferation, invasion,

angiogenesis and metastasis of different cancers through interaction with multiple cell

signaling proteins. Cancer Letters 269. 2008;199–225.

14. Kurt E, Bavbek S, Pasaoglu G ve ark. Use of alternative medicines by allergic patients in

Turkey. Allergol Immunopathol 2004; 32:289-94.

15. Kutlu S, Ekmekçi TR, Köşlü A, ve ark. Complementary and alternative medicine among

patients attending to dermatology outpatient clinic. Turkiye Klinikleri J Med Sci 2009;

29:1496-502.

16. Li, S., Yuan, W., Deng, G., Wang, P., Yang, P., & Aggarwal, BB. Chemical Composition and

Product Quality Control of Turmeric (Curcuma longa L.). Pharmaceutical Crops, 2011; 5(1),

28-54.

17. Mevsim V,Dermatolojik HastalıklarınEpidemiyolojisi, Hastalık Yükü ve Birinci Basamaktaki

Yeri. 2010;1(2) p. 15-20.

18. Millikan LE. Complementary medicine in dermatology Clin Dermatol 2002; 20:602-5

19. Misery L. Neuro-immuno-cutaneous system (NICS). Pathol Biol 1996; 44:867-74.

20. Papadopoulos L, Walker CJ: Understanding skin problems. John Wiley & Sons Ltd Chicester,

2003; 203-25.

21. Phillips J, Moore-Medlin T, Sonavane K, Ekshyyan O, McLarty J, Nathan CA. Curcumin

Inhibits UV Radiation-Induced Skin Cancer in SKH-1 Mice. Otolaryngol Head Neck Surg

2013; 148(5):797-803.

22. Sağlık İstatistikleri Yıllığı 2008, TC Sağlık Bakanlığı. Yayın No:790: Ankara; 2010.

23. Tayyem RF, Heath DD, Al-Delaimy WK, Rock CL. Curcumin Content of Turmeric and Curry

Powders. Nutrition and cancer, 2006; 55 (2): 126-31.

24. Tüzün Y. Derinin Yapısı ve Gelişmesi. Tüzün Y, Gürer MA, Serdaroğlu S, Oğuz O, Aksungur

VL, ed. Dermatoloji. 3. Baskı. İstanbul: Nobel Tıp kitabevleri, 2008, 17-32.


FOP-13 (FullText)

Encapsulation of Hyaluronic Acid and Lavender Oil to be Used for

Cosmetic with Electrospining Method

Emine KUTLU

1*, Fatih Mehmet EMEN

1, Ruken Esra DEMİRDÖĞEN

2,

Ali İhsan KARAÇOLAK1, Derya KILIÇ

1, Aslıhan Cesur TURGUT

4, Göktürk AVŞAR

3


15030, Burdur, Turkey 2Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Science, Çankırı Karatekin University,

TR 18100, Çankırı, Turkey 3Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Arts and Science, Mersin University, TR 33100, Mersin, Turkey

4 Food Agriculture and Livestock Vocational High School, Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University,


ABSTRACT

Encapsulation is a technology in which a bioactive substance is completely trapped in another

substance. Hyaluronic acid is a widely used chemical in medical aesthetics and cosmetics sector in

recent years. Lavender oil has the effect of reducing muscle pains, wrinkles caused by aging,

increasing rate of healing in burns and wounds, and eliminating acne.

In this study, hyaluronic acid and lavender oil were encapsulated by electrospraying method under the

opt,imum conditions of 15 kV, 1.5 ml / min flow rate, 12 cm tip to collector distance. Polymer

nanoparticles containing Hyaluronic acid and lavender oil were added to the cream formulation. pH,

viscosity and microbiological tests were also performed.

Keywords: Cosmetics, Hyaluronic acid, Electrospraying, Encapsulation

INTRODUCTION

Cosmetology is the science that examines and develops substances prepared for purposes such as

changing the appearance, cleaning, smelling or removing odor and moistening the body. For this

purpose, there are products designed for applying on the skin, lips, hair, nails, oral mucosa and teeth.

The word “cosmetics” derived from the Greek word kos-metikos means master in decoration. In

archaeological excavations, bowls and ointment containers with face paints on the tombs along with

the dead were found in ancient Egypt. These are evidences that show use of cosmetic products in

ancient Egypt. Man used perfumes, creams and lotions to look younger, to protect the skin, to remove

marks, to prevent hair loss, to prevent unwanted odors. In ancient Greek Athens, women used gold-gilt

hair creams and fragrant ointments. In England, during the reign of Elizabeth I, women who lived in

the palace rubbed their bodies and faces with wine and bathed in milk. In Anatolia, pleasant smells,

henna use, eye riding is examples of cosmetic use from the past to the present. In the past, cosmetic

products generally obtained from fragrant plants, seeds and oils (amber, musk, gum, resin, thyme,

pelargonium and various flowers, etc.) are replaced by dermo-cosmetic products based on scientific

data [(anti-aging, peptides, eco-friendly colored cosmetics). , ammonia-free organic hair dyes, SLES

(sodium lauryl ether sulfate) and SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate)-free shampoos)]] after 1990’s [1]. In

recent years, hyaluronic acid, which is popular in cosmetics, is a high molecular weight

polysaccharide found in connective tissue. The chemical name is glycosaminoglycan and is the only



sulfate-free group of connective tissue proteins. It is found in places such as joint fluid, hyaline

cartilage, vitreous fluid of the eye, epidermis. As it has high water holding capacity, it has an

important role in hydration and humidification of tissues, passage of material through tissues and

cellular movements. Because of these properties, hyaluronic acid is widely used in aesthetic and

cosmetic applications, especially in orthopedics, rheumatology and dermatology. In practice,

hyaluronic acid is a commonly used component in skin care products because of its moisturizing effect

and as a filler to reduce wrinkles caused by aging [2].

Most cosmetic products contain biologically active substances. These bioactive substances are

sensitive to parameters such as temperature, light, pH, oxidation. Encapsulation process can be applied

to ensure the stability of these bioactive materials, to preserve their stability, to increase their

efficiency and to provide slow release [3]. Encapsulation can be described as a technology in which a

bioactive substance is completely trapped in another substance. The encapsulated substances are called

active ingredient, core, filler, while the encapsulating substances are called capsule, shell, carrier. The

resulting capsules may generally have size ranging from several nm to several mm [4]. The

microcapsules consist of a core with a size greater than 0.2 μm and a shell enveloping the core [5]. The

size of the nanocapsules ranges from 10 to 1000 nm. Since nano capsules are small in size, they are

easier to get into the cell and have the capacity to trap the active substance. Due to these properties,

the active substance is allowed to release more amount into the cell. Reduce toxicity in other regions

because they are active in the target region. Production techniques are simple and easy [6]. The

encapsulation process can be applied by using spray drying, freeze drying, extraction, coacervation,

fluidized bed coating, extrusion techniques [7]. The desired capsule size, the structure of the active

substance, the physical-chemical properties of the core and shell, the release mechanism and

production costs determine which technique to use [8]. Electrospraying is based on high electric fields,

simple, inexpensive, quick to install and suitable for commercial production. It is used to obtain

particles and capsules of micro-nano sizes using various polymers. The most important advantage of

this method is that the product obtained may have different morphological structures. The

morphological structure of the obtained product is controlled by changing the process parameters

(polymer concentration, applied voltage, distance) [9].

In this study, hyaluronic acid and lavender oil were encapsulated by electrospinning method. A new

cream formulation was developed using hyaluronic acid and lavender oil. pH, viscosity and

microbiological tests were performed.


olyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) (average mol wt 40,000), Pluronic F-127, glacial acetic acid 100% were

purchased from Sigma-Aldrich Chemicals Ltd. (Germany). Hyaluronic acid (HA) (Janssen brand-

2mL) and lavender oil were commercially purchased. Absolute ethanol (Merck), acetone (Merck)

were used as solvent.

pH measurements were made with Mettler Toledo brand and S20K KIT model pH meter. Viscosity

studies were performed with Brookfield brand, RVDV-11+PX model viscometer.

Preparation of PVP Solutıon

7 g of PVP was dissolved in ethanol: glacial acetic acid mixture (4: 1 v/v) by stirring for 60 min with

magnetic stirrer. Then 7.5 mL of acetone was added and stirring was continued until the solution

became viscous.

Preparation of Pluronicacid-F127 Solutıon

3 g of Pluronic F-127 was dissolved in ethanol: acetone (2: 1 v/v) by stirring for 60 min on a magnetic

stirrer at 40 ° C.


Preparation of PVP– Pluronic F-127 / HA Blend Solutions

The PVP and Pluronic F-127 solutions were mixed at a 5: 1 (v/v) ratio via magnetic stirrer. 1 mL of

lavender oil, 2 mL of hyaluronic acid and 1 mL of tween 20 was mixed by stirring for a further 30

minutes.

Preparation of PVP-Pluronicacid-F127 / HA-Lavender oil Particles Via Electrospraying

The prepared blend with the PVP-Pluronicacid-F127 / HA were loaded into a syringe with a metal

capillary needle (inner diameter of 0.5 mm). The electrospraying setup consisted of a syringe pump

and a grounded collector plate covered in aluminum foil, and a high voltage power supply. Voltage of

15 kV was applied to the the syringe loaded with PVP-Pluronicacid-F127 / HA solution with a

metallic syringe. The process was performed at room temperature, and the solutions were injected

from the syringe pump with at a rate of 1.5 mL/dk. The distance between the needle tip and the

grounded collector plate was 12 cm. Dry nanoparticles collected on the aluminum foil were scraped

witha PP spatula and was stored at room temperature.

Cream formulation containing nanoparticles cıontaining hyaluronic acid and lavender oil

The emulsifier (Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearil Alcohol,) and other oil soluble components (Cetyl alcohol)

were dissolved in the oil phase (Part A) and was heated to 70° C. The preservatives and other water

soluble components (Glycerine, EDTA) was dissolved in the aqueous phase (Part B) and was heated to

70 °C. After the aqueous phase (Part B) was cooled it was added slowly to the oil phase. The prepared

capsules of hyaluronic acid and lavender oil were added to the cream form. The cream obtained was

mixed in a homogenitator for 1 hour.


The pH of the cream formulations containing hyaluronic acid and lavandula capsules was controlled

for 3 days and at the end of 3 days it was was found to be 5.66. The decrease in viscosity due to

increase in speed indicates a non-Newtonian flow.

Table 1. Viscosity results

Viscosity

(mPa·s)

Speed

(RPM)

Spindle

27.467 10 T-D - (RV Model)

15.000 20 T-D - (RV Model)

10.644 30 T-D - (RV Model)

8.167 40 T-D - (RV Model)

6.653 50 T-D - (RV Model)

5.600 60 T-D - (RV Model)

4.857 70 T-D - (RV Model)

4.292 80 T-D - (RV Model)

3.852 90 T-D - (RV Model)

3.500 100 T-D - (RV Model)

3.200 110 T-D - (RV Model)

2.928 120 T-D - (RV Model)

Microbiological studies were carried out in accordance with TS EN ISO 11930 test method.

Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 25923, Escherichia coli ATCC 35150, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC

9027, Candida albicans ATCC 10231microorganisms were used in this studies. All live


microorganisms were inoculated at level 106. The seeding was done on different days. The results

obtained in the challenge testi are given in Table 2. The logarithmic decrease in the number of

microorganisms with the time is given in Figure 1.

Table 2. Challenge Test Results

Figure 1. Cream Challenge test chart

The obtained results indicate that the cream modified with hyaluronic acid-lavandula oil containing

capsules are suitable in terms of pH, viscosity and microbiological activity.

CONCLUSION

There are many encapsulation technologies and materials and encapsulation is used in many

application areas. Electrospraying method is simple, inexpensive, easy to install and high voltage

based technology. Through this technique film and nanoparticles can be produced and this method can

be effectively exploited for obtaining cosmetic products.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy university BAP; (Project number 0510 AYDEP-18)

REFERENCES

1. Çomoğlu, Tansel. "Cosmetikler." Marmara Pharmaceutical Journal 16.1 (2012): 1-8.

Organism Type Test

Method 2. Day 7. Day 14. Day 28. Day

Staphylococcus aureus ATCC

25923

TS EN ISO

11930 1 3 5 5

Escherichia coli ATCC 35150 TS EN ISO

11930 - 4 5 5

Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC

9027

TS EN ISO

11930 1 4 5 5

Candida albicans ATCC 10231 TS EN ISO

11930 - 4 5 5


2. Tırnaksız, F., Kaymak, Y,. (2008). Hyaluronic Acid. Turkey Clinical J

Dermatol.2008;18(1):9-16

3. Ammala, A. (2013). Biodegradable polymers as encapsulation materials for cosmetics and

personal care markets. International journal of cosmetic science, 35(2), 113-124.

4. Nedovic, V., Kalusevic, A., Manojlovic, V., Levic, S., & Bugarski, B. (2011). An overview of

encapsulation technologies for food applications. Procedia Food Science, 1, 1806-1815.

5. Paulo, F., Santos, L. (2017). Design of experiments for microencapsulation applications:A

review. Materials Science and Engineering: C.

6. Derman, S., Kızılbey, K., Akdeste, Z. M. (2013). Polymeric nanoparticles. Sigma, 31, 107-

120. Edlund, U., Albertsson, A.-C., 2002. Degradable polymer microspheres for controlled

drug delivery. Adv. Polym. Sci. 157, 67–112

7. Gökmen, Süleyman, Recep Palamutoğlu, and C. Sarıçoban. "Gıda endüstrisinde

enkapsülasyon uygulamaları." Gıda Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi 7.1 (2012): 36-50.

8. Atak, Eylem, Esma Yildiz, and Mehmet Emin Uslu. "ENCAPSULATION OF PHENOLIC

COMPOUNDS." Soma Vocational School Technical Sciences Journal 2.24 (2017): 82-92.

9. Yilmaz, Tugba. Encapsulation of Vitamin E by Electrodeposition Method and Investigation of

Parameters Affecting Electrodeposition, Characterization of Nanofibers. Diss. Institute of

Science and Technology, 2016.


FOP-14 (FullText)

Investigation of Antimicrobial Efficiency of Herbal Mix as Natural

Preservative in Lotion

Mehmet Onur TÜRKDOĞRU

1, Erol ARIKAYA

1, Ali Bahadır ÇELİK

1,

Nilgün BAYSAL2, Selin SAYIN

3, İlker SAYGILI

4

1GDA Laboratory Services Food Chemistry Environmental Training Cons. Industry and Trade

Limited Company, 34841, Maltepe, İstanbul, Turkey 2Bekaferd İç ve Dış Ticaret San. Ltd. Şti., 38010, Kocasinan, Kayseri, Turkey

3Iskenderun Technical University, Faculty of Marine Sciences and Technology, 31230 Hatay, Turkey 4Sanko University, Faculty of Medicine, Department of Medical Biochemistry/Molecular Medicine,

27090, Gaziantep, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

In this study, anti Cellulite firming slimming lotion was treated with 2 % Asatim Simurg (Rumex

acetocella- rumex acetosa, Achillea millefolium- yarrow, Plantago lanceolata- plantago 100% local

herbal liquid mix) and 3% Capsicum annuum extract. Then, investigation of inhibitor efficiency of

herbal liquid extract mix against Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC

6538, Escherichia coli ATCC 8739, Candida albicans ATCC, Aspergillus brasiliensis ATCC 16404

populations according to ISO 11930

Keywords: Natural preservative, Antimicrobial efficiency, Herbal extracts, Capsicum annuum.

INTRODUCTION

Cosmetics do not need to be sterile, but they must be adequately preserved or otherwise protected

from microbial contamination and spoilage. When consumers use cosmetic products, they repeatedly

challenge the cosmetics with microorganisms in saliva, on dirty hands, and in tap water.

Cosmetic sector uses a variety of chemical preservatives to prevent contamination by pathogens or

spoilage microorganisms. This use extends the shelf life of products. The preservatives include benzyl

alcohol, boric acid, sorbic acid, chlorhexidine, formaldehyde, parabens, quaternary ammonium

compounds, phenol, imidazolidinyl compounds, and others [1].

Antimicrobial preservatives are used to reduce the likelihood of microbial growth in aqueous products

and to reduce the chance of microbial survival in anhydrous products that may be contaminated during

use [2]. Nowadays, safety of chemical preservatives has been questioned by a big number of

consumers. Traditionally used preservatives often cause skin irritation and lead to allergenic reactions.

Growing demands for more natural and preservative-free cosmetics promoted an idea of the

replacement of synthetic preservatives with essential oils (EOs) of antimicrobial properties [3, 4].

Also, the use of capsicum fruits as a food additive, in traditional medicine, it has been used for the

treatment of cough, toothache, sore throat, parasitic infections, rheumatism, wound healing and also

utilized as an antiseptic, counterirritant, appetite stimulator, antioxidant and immunomodulator [5].

Capsaicin, the pungent alkaloid of red pepper (Capsicum annuum) has been extensively studied for its

biological effects which are of pharmacological relevance. These include: cardio protective influence,

antilithogenic effect, antiinflammatory, and analgesia, thermogenic influence, and beneficial effects on

gastrointestinal system [6].



The evaluation of the preservation of a cosmetic formulation is based on inoculation of the

formulation with calibrated inocula (prepared from relevant strains of micro-organisms). The number

of surviving micro-organisms were measured at defined intervals during a period of 28 days. For each

time and each strain, the log reduction value was calculated and compared to the minimum values

required for evaluation criteria A or B [7].

Microbial strains The test shall be run using the following strains as test micro-organisms:

Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC®9027, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC®6538, Escherichia coli

ATCC®8739, Candida albicans ATCC®10231, Aspergillus brasiliensis (previously A. niger)

ATCC®16404

Used as pathogen cultures (Microbiologics, Minnesota USA) was provided from the GDA Laboratory

Services reference strain collection. The turbidity of the suspension was adjusted according to the

turbidity equivalent to the Mc Farland 0.5 standard. Adjustment was done by densitometer device

(Biosan Densitometer DEN-1, Latvia) (Figure 1,2) All strains were inoculated with 10-fold dilutions

for control of microorganism strain amount. (Table-1) [7].

Table 1. Amounts of inoculated microorganisms Strain Name N* N0

** Unit

Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC ®9027 4,6x10

8

4,2x106

cfu/mL

Staphylococcus aureus ATCC®6538 1,9x10

8

1,7x106

cfu/mL

Escherichia coli ATCC®8739 5,8x10

8

5,4x106

cfu/mL

Candida albicans ATCC®10231 2,9x10

7

2,4x105

cfu/mL

Aspergillus brasiliensis (previously A.

niger) ATCC®16404 5,6x10

7

5,1x105

cfu/mL

*N, count of microorganisms in mL

**N0, the number of microorganisms inoculated in the formulation at time t0

Figure 1. Densitometer device.


Figure 2. 10-fold dilutions.

Inoculation of test micro-organisms and Incubation of the inoculated formulation Add to each container 0,2 ml of calibrated inoculum to obtain between 1x10

5 cfu/ml and 1x10

6 cfu/ml

or g for bacteria, and between 1x104 cfu/ml and 1x10

5 cfu/ml or g for C. albicans and A. brasiliensis

in the formulation (final concentration). Mix thoroughly to ensure a homogeneous distribution of the

inoculum. Store the containers holding the inoculated formulation at (22,5±2, 5) °C [7].

Sampling and enumeration At each specified sampling interval, 7 days (T7), 14 days (T14) and 28 days (T28), according to the

test strain were took 1 g or 1 ml of the inoculated formulation. Analysis was performed. Microbial

enumeration using a suitable agar medium (TSA for bacteria, SDA for C.albicans or PDA for

A.brasiliensis). Microbial enumeration was performed in duplicate. Petri dishes were incubated at

(32,5 ± 2,5) °C for 48 h to 72 h for the bacteria and C.albicans and at (22,5 ± 2,5) °C for 3 days to 5

days for A. Brasiliensis [7].


In our study, it were seen that all strains were not detected in the samples of lotion sample which we

contaminated with strains and when the Asatim® herbal liquid extract and Capsicum annuum extract

mixture was added. (Table 2) Also, according to ISO 11930, the criteria in (Table 3) are provided.

Table 2. Results of Analysis, at times 7th, 14th and 28th. Strain Name T7 N14 T28

Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC ®9027 <10 <10 <10

Staphylococcus aureus ATCC®6538 <10 <10 <10 Escherichia coli ATCC®8739 <10 <10 <10 Candida albicans ATCC®10231 <10 <10 <10 Aspergillus brasiliensis (previously A.

niger) ATCC®16404

<10 <10 <10


Table 3. Evaluation criteria. Log reduction values (Rx= lgN0-lgNx) requireda

Microorganisms Bacteria C. albicans A. brasiliensis

Sampling time T7 T14 T28 T7 T14 T28 T14 T28

Criteria A ≥3

≥3

and NIb

≥3

and NI ≥1

≥1

and NI

≥1

and NI ≥0

c

≥1

and NI

Criteria A Not

performed ≥3

≥3

and NIb

Not

performed ≥1

≥1

and NI ≥0

≥0

and NI a In this test, an acceptable range of deviation of 0,5 log is accepted

b NI: no increase in the count from the previous contact time.

c Rx=0 when lgN0=lgNx (no increase from the initial count).

CONCLUSION

In this case, Asatim® herbal liquid extract and Capsicum annuum extract mixture can be used as a

natural antibacterial preservative in lotion products before packaging and primary packaging.

It is concluded that such a product (e.g. Asatim®) is suitable instead of synthetic / chemical

preservatives / additives. Thus, both the availability of our country's natural resources and the

production of healthier lotion products will be ensured.

Türkdoğru et al. (2019) reported that Asatim herbal extract mix have been shown to possess potent

antimicrobial activity in lotion products [8].

REFERENCES

1. Geis, A. editor. Cosmetic Microbioloy A Practical Approach: Published/Taylor & Francis;

2006. 311 p. ISBN: 9780849314537 0849314534

2. Boukhira, S., Balouiri M., Mansouri, L.E., Youbi, A.E.M.E., Bouarfa, M., Lebtar, S.,

Ouhammou, A., Bousta D., Development of Natural Preservative from Silene vulgaris Extract

in Topical Formulation under a Challenge Test and its Stability Study. Journal of Applied

Pharmaceutical Science. 2017, 7 (04): 142-148, DOI: 10.7324/JAPS.2017.70421

3. Dreger. M., Wielgus. K., Appilcation of essential oils as natural cosmetic preservatives. Herba

Polonica, 2013, 59 (4): 142-156, DOI: 10.2478/hepo-2013-0030

4. Herman, A., Herman, A.P., Domagalska, B.W., Młynarczyk, A., Essential Oils and Herbal

Extracts as Antimicrobial Agents in Cosmetic Emulsion. Indian Journal of Microbiology.

2012, 53(2): 232–237, DOI: 10.1007/s12088-012-0329-0

5. Sanati, S., Razavi, B.M., Hosseinzadeh, H., A review of the effects of Capsicum annuum L.

and its constituent, capsaicin, in metabolic syndrome. Irania Journal of Basic Medical

Sciences. 2018, 21 (5): 439-448, DOI: 10.22038/IJBMS.2018.25200.6238

6. Srinivasan, K., Biological Activities of Red Pepper (Capsicum annuum) and Its Pungent

Principle Capsaicin: A Review. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition. 2015, 56 (9):

1488-1500, DOI: 10.1080/10408398.2013.772090

7. ISO 11930, Cosmetics- Microbiology- Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a

cosmetic product. 2017, 19 p, ICS 07.100.40

8. Kola, O., Türkdoğru, M.O., Yıldız, G., Gecesefa, Ö.F., Ercan, K., Eskici, A., Parim, A., İnanlı,

G., Investigation of Antimicrobial Efficiency of Herbal Mix as Natural Preservative in

Shampoo, 9th Congress on Chemistry Manufacturing and Standardization of Cosmetics 22-24

February 2019, abstract book, 59p.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=Srinivasan%20K%5BAuthor%5D&cauthor=true&cauthor_uid=25675368


ROP-15 (Review)

Metal Pollution from Cosmetic Products and Its Effects on Human Health

İrem ERGİN1, Özcan YALÇINKAYA

2

1General Directorate of Mineral Research and Exploration Department of Marine Research, 06800,

Ankara, Turkey 2Gazi University, Faculty of Science, Department of Chemistry, 06500, Ankara, Turkey


ABSTRACT

Metal contamination can be observed in the stages from the raw material to the production of cosmetic

products and ultimately to the consumer. Although new cosmetic products try to minimize the

potential harm to living and environmental health, consumers are still concerned about the potential

harm to the toxic effect from the cosmetic product. Due to this toxicological concern, scientific studies

to determine the source and amount of contamination and studies to prevent or minimize possible

metal contamination are of interest. Cosmetics, women and men both sexes also preferred owing to

their products in Turkey and the world in Research & Development activities for the improvement of

these products are considered as popular subjects of study [1-4]. In this article, some metals which are

settled in human tissues with cosmetic products and their toxic effects on human health are examined.

Keywords: Cosmetic products, Metal contamination, Human health, Toxic effect.

INTRODUCTION

In this review, current studies on the evaluation of possible risks to human health of toxic effects of

chemical substances in cosmetic products are summarized. For this purpose, investigations were

carried out to investigate the potential damages of exposure to metal contamination, microbial

contamination, genetic toxicity, and toxic effects of nano-sized materials of cosmetic product users.

The topics such as whether the mentioned substances are contaminated to human tissues and affect the

human health as a result of their placement and accumulation in tissues, the possible damages of the

use of nano-sized materials in cosmetic products and self-protecting cosmetics are among the

scientific research topics that have been of interest for years. These issues remain among the current

scientific studies due to the search for progress and innovation in cosmetic science and technology [3,

5-8].

Concerns about the possible negative or toxic effects of chemicals in cosmetics, which have been

referred to as toxicological concerns in the literature for many years, still continue today. From the raw

materials used in the production of cosmetics, the substances used as preservatives and from the

beginning of production to the consumer, each of the harmful substances that may be transmitted to

the products should be evaluated for safety. Today, in most countries, the control of the safety of these

substances used in the production of cosmetics is followed by the relevant official institutions,

organizations or committees. As a matter of fact, today, cosmetic manufacturers and cosmetic products

are being followed by government agencies. For example; In Turkey, "Turkey Pharmaceuticals and

Medical Devices Agency (TTİCK)," by, in Europe, "the European Food Safety Authority and Health

Organization (EFSA)" by, in America, "the World Health Organization (WHO)" by are followed, etc.

In our country, protective efficacy tests, dermotological tests, stability tests, microbiological tests,

genotoxicity tests are performed in accredited, private and official laboratories in accordance with the



standard of EN TS EN ISO / IEC 17025 General Conditions for Competence of Testing and

Calibration Laboratories”. Thanks to these control tools, the safety assessment of the substances used

in cosmetic products is carried out [1,2,9-12].

Consumers are in direct contact with cosmetic products. For this reason, cosmetic products need to be

reliable for human health. Advances and innovations in cosmetic science and cosmetic technology

increase the variety of cosmetic products. Because of the increasing cosmetic consumption,

manufacturers need to be more meticulous in cosmetic production and consumers should be more

conscious. The results of scientific research show that cosmetic products sold as commercial products

may contain substances that may harm human health. Metals contained in the raw materials of

cosmetic products or metals contained in cosmetics contaminated with metals may enter the human

body through respiratory or skin routes. These metals can then accumulate in various organs. If heavy

metals such as arsenic, lead, mercury, cadmium, nickel, chromium, antimony, cobalt are contaminated

or used in cosmetic production, these metals can accumulate in human organs and reach toxic doses

[8,13,14].

For the reasons mentioned above, in the content of this article, primarily the properties of some heavy

metals which may have toxic effects on human health are mentioned. Then, the possible toxic effects

of metals, the safety tests of the contents of cosmetics, the penetration of metals into human tissues,

the spread and dispersion of metals in the body related with are summarized scientific studies.

Ultimately, scientific studies that detect the metal contamination in cosmetic products scientific

studies on reducing, or eliminating toxicological concern caused by metals are included.

Heavy Metals and Properties

This section is included, the properties of some heavy metals which may have toxic effects on human

health are mentioned.

Metals with an atomic number greater than 20 are known as heavy metals. Density of heavy metals is

greater than 5 g/cm3. Heavy metals have the potential to accumulate in living organisms. When heavy

metal accumulation exceeds a certain limit, it is toxic to the living organism. Therefore, it is necessary

to consider the procedures in the application areas of heavy metals. While certain amounts of the

essential ones of said heavy metals are necessary for living things, the excess still has a toxic effect

[3].

The National Committee for Clinical Laboratory Standards (NCCLS) divided the biological trace

elements in the periodic table into four groups: Essential Major Elements, Essential Trace Elements,

Non-Essential Toxic Elements and Therapeutic Elements. Essential major elements are sodium,

potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, sulfur, chlorine, silicon. Essential trace elements

are vanadium, chromium, manganese, cobalt, molybdenum, zinc, copper, nickel, selenium, fluorine,

iodine. Examples of non-essential toxic elements are lead, cadmium, aluminum, beryllium, arsenic,

mercury, thallium. Elements used for therapeutic purposes, lithium platinum and gold can be given as

examples [15].

Chrome (Cr)

Chromium is a grayish shiny metal with an atomic number of 24 and an atomic weight of 51.99, which

is solid but easily broken. Essential trace elements. It plays a role in glucose metabolism. Lack of

chromium leads to insulin resistance. While Cr +3

is essential, Cr +6

is toxic [16,17].

Cobalt (Co)

Cobalt is a solid, silver metal with an atomic number 27 and an atomic weight of 58.93. It is found in

the structure of vitamin B12. Although it is one of the essential trace elements, it is toxic for living

organisms exposed to high amounts. Deficiency leads to anemia [18].

Nickel (Ni)

Nickel is a very hard white silver with an atomic number of 28 and an atomic weight of 58.69. Nickel


is often found in nature together with Cobalt. The element grouped by NCCLS is in the group of

essential trace elements. Deficiency causes changes in B12 metabolism and undesirable effects such as

disruption of iron use. In addition to being essential, the compound used in industry (NiCo4) is

highly toxic. Depending on the duration and amount of exposure to this compound, it causes serious

poisoning of the living organism [16].

Cadmium (Cd)

Cadmium is a soft, white, bright and highly water-soluble metal with atomic number 48, atomic

weight 112.41. Non-essential toxic elements. It is easy to get into the living organism because it is

very soluble in water. Accumulation in the body damages the skeletal system, teeth, lungs and kidneys

[17].

Antimony (Sb)

Antimony is a brittle, silvery white semi-metal with an atomic number of 51 and an atomic weight of

121.76. Similar to Arsenic in chemical properties. It is usually found in nature together with silver and

arsenic. Antimony and its compounds are toxic element [18].

Lead (Pb)

Lead is a bluish gray soft metal with an atomic number 82 and an atomic weight of 207,21. It is

commonly found in nature. It is a non-essential toxic element threatening living health. The most

important biochemical damage of lead is that it inhibits amino acids involved in hemoglobin synthesis.

After exposure to lead, lead diffuses intensely in bone and blood cells [17].

The Scientific Studies on The Penetration of Metals into Human Tissues, Their Possible Toxic

Effects and The Diffusion and Distribution of Metals in The Body

This section is included, the possible toxic effects of metals, the safety tests of the contents of

cosmetics, the penetration of metals into human tissues, the spread and dispersion of metals in the

body related with are summarized scientific studies.

Due to the various contamination of cosmetics, microorganisms with high water content could change

the composition of the product or pose a health risk. Preservatives are added to prevent contamination

of pathogenic microorganisms such as Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa into the

cosmetics. The safety tests of parabens, formaldehyde, formaldehyde release agents and preservatives

such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone in European Union countries and in the

USA are carried out in accordance with current legislation. The skin may exhibit an allergic reaction

to said preservatives. Therefore the chemical content and concentration of the preservative used is

important. Contact allergy caused by cosmetics is known as the main cause of eczema. Therefore, it is

important to investigate the antimicrobial efficacy of preservatives used in cosmetics [19].

McEwen, G.'s review, provides information about the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) program,

which examines the contents of cosmetics. Accordingly, the reliability of 1300 cosmetic ingredients

and usage from 1976 to 2004 was evaluated. The American Food and Drug Administration has

identified many cosmetic components that need to be used in limited quantities in the cosmetic and

chemical industry [20].

In a review prepared by Hougeir, F. G. and Kircik, L. investigated the studies that examined the

positive and negative effects of the user as a result of the penetration of various surfactants used in

health or cosmetic products into the skin. Liposomes, niyomes, silicones, microemulsions,

nanoemulsions, such as the distribution and penetration of various distribution systems to the skin

examined studies [4].

Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC) is a risk assessment methodology applied to assess the

effects on human health based on the duration of exposure to substances whose chemical structure is

known but lack of toxicity information or lack of toxicity information. In this approach, the

classification of substances according to their chemical structure is one of the most important


parameters [21,22]. This approach was first developed for foodborne chemicals. In the following

years, although some studies have been conducted to improve the Cramer classifications and the basic

database, Cramer classification is still one of the approaches used in risk assessment studies aimed at

protecting human health [23].

In a review by Nduka, JK et al., In which they reviewed scientific studies on the toxicological effects

of cosmetic components and the effects of cosmetic components on human health, the legal use of

many toxic substances such as lead, chromium, nickel, mercury, arsenic, cadmium, hydroquinone,

steroids, and nitrosine although it is restricted or prohibited by regulations. In scientific studies, they

have reported that diseases such as skin or kidneys are observed due to the use of harmful chemical

components in cosmetics. They also emphasized the need for meticulous control of the ethics of

advertisements aimed at increasing consumer low self-esteem [3].

In a review by Borowska, S. and Brzoska, MM., emphasized that concerns about the safety of

cosmetics used directly by applying to human skin increased, and the harmful effects of heavy metals

and aluminum such as lead, mercury, cadmium, arsenic and nickel to human health and have included

the legal regulations related to. Elements such as copper, iron, chromium and cobalt can also be found

in cosmetic products. It has been stated that more than a certain amount of these metals has toxic

effects on the human body. Metals in cosmetics act directly on the skin or pass through the skin into

the blood, accumulate in the body and may show toxic effects on various organs. It is stated that

literature data may contain toxic metals in quantities that may be dangerous to human health and may

have effects such as allergic contact dermatitis in commercially available cosmetics. [24].

Heavy metals may be present in the raw materials of cosmetic products such as hair dyes, headlights,

blush, lipstick or natural or synthetic colorants that give color to the dye. In addition, metal

contamination can occur in the process from the production stage to the consumer [25-28].

In recent years, the use of nanoparticles in cosmetic products has become widespread. Metal

nanoparticles are also used in personal care products such as shampoo, conditioner, sunscreen, soap.

These metal oxides are dermally exposed. These nanoparticles can also be exposed by air. Metal

nanoparticles that easily enter the cell by said means can cause oxidative stress. In the studies carried

out to understand the toxicity effects of metal nanoparticles contained in cosmetic products, it is

pointed out that nanoparticles can be harmful to human health as well as polluting nature.

[8]. In a survey of nanoemulsions, it was found in a survey of 192 volunteers that 80% of the

volunteers preferred nanoemulsion products. Nanoemulsions are emulsions having a transparent,

brittle structure and droplets less than 100 nm. Nanoemulsions with strong moisturizing properties,

biophysical properties such as fluid texture, lotions in hair products, gels, nail polish and so on. they

are used in cometic products [29].

Michalek, I. M. et al. was reported, there is an urgent need to addressed safety issues in the use of

cosmetic products due to scientific evidence of heavy metal contamination in cosmetics. For this

purpose, they conducted a global research. They reported that they have examined the legal limit

values of metals such as mercury, lead, arsenic, cadmium in cosmetic products and that they have

systematically examined the legal regulations on this subject on a global scale. They reported that they

have advanced their work in a two-stage process and that for this purpose they first reviewed the

official website of 17 regional organizations. Subsequently, they reported that they were researching

legal regulations in countries with more than 100 million a population. As a result, they reviewed

fifteen legislative actions of high, middle and low income countries covering more than 67% of the

global population. They found that while high-income countries had legal regulations, low-income

countries lacked similar regulations. In all countries, they have reported that the implementation of

existing legal regulations and the effectiveness of these regulations should be meticulously assessed

[30].

Nohynek, G.J. et al. conducted a study on the reliability assessment of the contents of Personal Care

Products (PCP). In their studies, it is stated that oxidative hair dyes contain arylamines, one of the

reactive components of PCP, and arylamines can cause allergies in human skin. Nevertheless, it was

reported that the correlation between the number of hair dye users and the frequency and prevalence of


hair dye allergy was low and stable. They reported that experts from the International Cancer Research

Agency (IARC) concluded that there was no evidence that consumers' hair dye exposure could lead to

cancer formation. Based on this, it is stated that the contents of modern hair dyes do not pose a

genotoxic, carcinogen or reproductive risk. Concerns about the safety of TiO2 and ZnO solid

nanoparticles used in another PCP have also been reported. According to the available scientific

evidences, TiO2 and ZnO have been observed to be non-toxic and do not pose a health risk have been

reported. In recent years, it has been stated that the use of natural ingredients in personal care products

has increased, but the contents of natural plant extracts have been subjected to safety evaluation as in

other cosmetic products. It was commented that the use of natural plant extracts in cosmetics brings a

new perspective to safety assessments. In summary, natural plant extracts further reduced the

threshold of toxicological concern. Evaluating the safety of cosmetics containing natural plant extracts

containing trace element elements is reported as a positive progress [31].

Use of Metals in Cosmetic Products and Detection of Metal Contamination from These Products

to Users

This section, scientific studies that detect the metal contamination in cosmetic products scientific

studies on reducing, or eliminating toxicological concern caused by metals are included.

In our daily lives, there are too many heavy metals passing through, settling and accumulating from

the products we use, including cosmetic products. 19. y.y. The increase in industrialization from the

present to the present day initially created an uncontrolled heavy metal pollution. Today, heavy metal

pollution is tried to be minimized and the producer is followed by the state.

In a study by Chuan H.A. et al., the amount of lead and cadmium in cosmetic products such as soap,

face cream, shampoo, shaving cream was determined by Atomic Absorption spectrophotometer. As a

result, the lead and cadmium in the cosmetic products examined was detected and reported that the

highest heavy metal pollution among these cosmetic products found in bath soap. Although it has been

detected in small amounts by this study, it has been stated that heavy metals are contaminated to the

cosmetic products examined and therefore users may encounter skin problems [32].

In a study by Zakaria and Ho, heavy metal contamination in lipsticks was investigated. Inductively

Coupled Plasma Optical Emission Spectrometer (ICP-OES) lead, cadmium and chromium

concentrations in lipsticks were determined as 0.77 to 15.44 mg kg-1

, 0.06-0.33 mg kg-1

and 0.48-22.50

mg kg-1

respectively. These results and the survey results were correlated with respect to health risks.

In their health risk assessment, they concluded that, since the hazard coefficient HQ <1, these heavy

metals had no significant carcinogenic risk due to long-term exposure to heavy metals from

consumption of lipstick for 35 years [27].

In another study by Bahrami et al., a carbon paste electrode was impregnated with ion imprinted

polymer nanoparticles and a voltammetric sensor was selected to select lead ions. In pH = 4 acetate

buffer medium, peak currents of Pb+2

ions were found to be highest. Under these conditions,

differential pulse and anodic stripping voltammetric analysis techniques were used. Optimized on the

designed modified electrode. The preconcentration potential and deposition time are -1.0 V and 25 s,

respectively. Under these conditions, lipstick samples and tap water in the modified electrode

designed to say that heavy metal determination can be done, 3.0 × 10-10

- 1.0 × 10-9

mol dm-3

and 1.0 ×

10-8

- 1.0 × 10-6

mol dm-3

linear range and the detection limit (LOD) of 1.0 x 10-10

mol dm-3

[28].

Although different chemicals have been used in their contents since the first day of production, the

main chemical materials found in hair dyes are still used in most hair dyes. Examples of these

materials are, natural pigments, colorants, artificial dyes, p-phenylenediamine (PPD), hydrogen

peroxide, ammonia, paraben. These substances and others can pass from the scalp to the skin, causing

various skin problems. If ingested orally, it can lead to various health problems such as skin diseases,

allergic reactions, tissue or organ disorders, and even death, depending on the heavy metal, the form in

which the metal is present, or the level of its toxic effect [25].

Nourmoradi, H. et al. Determined the content of lead and cadmium found in two of the most widely

used cosmetic products in Iran and evaluated these results. In this study, the determination of lead and


cadmium in 50 samples of lipsticks and eyeshadows were performed on Graphite Furnace Atomic

Absorption Spectrometry (GFAAS). The detection limit for both elements was reported to be 0.1 𝜇g/g.

50 samples of lipstick (5 colors in 7 brands) and eye shadow (3 colors in 5 brands) with GFAAS was

determined that the lead and cadmium of concentration. Lipstick samples lead concentration was

determined 0.08 𝜇g/g - 5.2 𝜇g/g, cadmium concentration was determined 4.08 𝜇g/g - 60.20 𝜇g/g and

was reported. In eye shadow samples, lead concentration was determined between 0.85 - 6.90 𝜇g/g,

cadmium concentration was determined 1.54 - 55.59 𝜇g/g and was reported. According to the results,

it is seen that the concentration range of heavy metals in eye shadow is higher than lipsticks. In

addition, a significant difference was reported between the mean concentrations of lead in different

lipstick and eye shadow brands [33].

In a study investigated by Wiesner, M. R. et al., in a study evaluating the risks of nanomaterials, it was

stated that scientific advances in designing nanoscale compounds / materials enabled these products to

become industrialized. Recent research in cosmetology, one of the application areas of

nanotechnology, has largely focused on the possible toxicity of these materials. Because it is inevitable

that living things will be affected by nanomaterials, whether they are in the production stage, during

use, or when they are destroyed [34].

In a study by Chiari-Andréo, B. G. et al., the major nanoparticle types used in cosmetics were

examined. In this study, which emphasizes the advantages of the use of these nanoparticles, the path of

the nanoparticle applied on the skin and the safety assessment of these substances are discussed.

Nanoparticles are also used in the cosmetic field to solve many pharmaceutical problems. In this

study, it has been stated that using cosmetics containing nanoparticles may have some advantages as

well as disadvantages [35].

In another study by Santos, A. C., et al., nanotechnology applications such as lipid-based nano-

polymeric structures, metal nanoparticles, silica nanoparticles (dendrimers, nanocrystals, fullerenes

nanodiamonds, and cyclodextrins) were summarizied to describe nanotechnology applications. They

declared that nanotechnology used to develop new cosmetic formulations is the focus for investments

in different areas of science. They reported that their studies were the summary of nano studies applied

in cosmetics so far and reported that they discussed the toxicological effects of nanoparticles as well as

the regulatory aspects of nanoparticles [36].

Subramaniam, V. D. et al., reported that in the cosmetic industry, metal oxide nanoparticles, such as

ZnO metal oxide nanoparticles, were studied in the cosmetic industry and the possible harm and toxic

effects of nanoparticles to human health [8].

Huang, Y.-W. and his friends reported, the increasing use of nanotechnology, which has an important

place in the world economy, it risked human health. They point out the nanotoxicity caused by the

nanoparticles and emphasize the need to understand the nature and origin of this risk. In their review

of the toxicity of transition metals, they reported that the exact physicochemical properties that

determine the toxicity of nanoparticles have not yet been identified, but that the development of

toxicity mechanisms for the safer design of nanomaterials is of great importance [37].

Review

Today, cosmetic products are used in a wide age range, both of men and women, and these products

are mostly used on a daily basis. For this reason, in many studies conducted for many years, it is

important to determine whether there are components in cosmetic products that may harm human

health.

After long-term exposure to cosmetics by people using cosmetic products, it is anticipated that

subjects such as how to remove substances that can reach toxic levels in the tissues from the body and

moreover, the exact determination of the mechanism of toxicology will be of interest for a long time in

scientific researches.

Out features that have toxic heavy metals harmful to living organisms, the manufacturer of the

effective use of toxic chemicals in cosmetics, which conforms to the limit values in Turkey and is

followed worldwide state hands. Cosmetic Act No. 5324 dated 24.03.2005 and the public institutions


and organizations and manufacturers appointed under the applicable regulations in Turkey are

inspected. Turkey Pharmaceuticals and Medical Devices Agency (TİTCK) by the likely heavy metal

impurities present in cosmetic products in order to inform producers and consumers about the legal

limits of these impurities "Guideline on cosmetic products Heavy Metal Impurities" was prepared.

This manual provides legal limit values for certain heavy metals such as lead, arsenic, cadmium,

mercury and antimony that may be present in cosmetic products [1]. In Europe, America and Japan,

the safety of personel care products is regulated within cosmetic and pharmaceutical regulations [31].

It is obvious that metal pollution pollutes the environment as well as the toxic effect for humans.

Toxic chemicals from industrial wastes are a serious environmental problem. Many disasters have

made the world people more sensitive to the environment from the catastrophe caused by the

explosion of 4 reactors at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant in 1986 to the tsunami at the Fukushima

Nuclear Power Plant after the 2011 Japan Earthquake.

When the studies are examined, it is observed that cosmetics used as personal care products offer

many benefits to the quality of life and health. However, despite the advances and developments in

cosmetic science and technology, despite the state-owned control of cosmetic manufacturers and

cosmetic products, despite the safety testing of cosmetic products, despite the benefits of advances in

science and technology, such as advances in nanotechnology, concerns about the possible harm to

human health of cosmetic products were not diminish.

It is clear that there is a need for an international regulation on the status and safety requirements of

these products and their components, in the interests of the cosmetics industry, consumers, regulatory

agencies, manufacturers and all stakeholders. Even if advanced technology studies such as

personalized product development studies and gene protective products are much more beneficial for

consumers, the most important point to be considered is that the toxicity mechanism of cosmetic

products should be prioritized.

REFERENCES

1. Türkiye İlaç ve Tıbbi Cihaz Kurumu (TİTCK), Kozmetik Ürünlerde Ağır Metal Safsızlıklarına

İlişkin Klavuz, https://titck.gov.tr/storage/announcement/x1xTn64Z.pdf, son erişim tarihi:

03.11.2019.

2. World Health Organization (WHO), Europen Food Safety Authority and Health Organization

(EFSA), Review of the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach and development

of new TTC decision tree. Event Report. Published: 10 March 2016.

3. Nduka, J. K., Kelle, H. I. and Odiba, I. O. Review of Health Hazards and Toxicological

Effects of Constituents of Cosmetics, DOI: 10.5772/intechopen.84590. April 24th 2019.

4. Hougeir, F. G. and Kircik, L. A review of delivery systems in cosmetics. Dermatol Ther, 25:

234-237. doi:10.1111/j.1529-8019.2012.01501.x. 2012.

5. Lehman, A. J., Vorhes, F. A., Ramsey, L. L., Hagan, E. C., Fitzhugh, O. G., Schouboe, P. J.,

Draize, J. H., Goldenthal, E. I., D’aguanno, W., Laug, E. P., Umberger, E. J., Gass, G. H.,

Zwickey, R. E., Davis, K. J., Braun, H. A., Nelson, A. A., Vos, B. J. Appraisal of the Safety

of Chemicals in Foods, Drugs, and Cosmetics, 159 p. United States. Published: 31 December

1959. 6. Halla, N., Fernandes, I.P., Heleno, S.A., Costa, P., Boucherit-Otmani, Z., Boucherit, K.,

Rodrigues, A.E., Ferreira, I.C.F.R., Barreiro, M.F. Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on

Present Strategies. Molecules. 23, 1571, 2018.

7. Kabara, J.J., Estrin, N.F., Moskowitz, H.R., Bore, P., Whittam, J.H., Pader, M., Felger, C.B.,

Waggoner, W.C., Spencer, S., Nicholas, C. and Shaath, N.A., Jungermann, E. and Sonntag,

O.V., Orth, D.S., Laba, D., Lowe, N.J., Pathak, M.A. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving

Cosmetics and Drugs Principle and Practice. Technolohy Exchange, Inc. Galena, Illinois and

Michigan State University East Lansing, Mishigan, 1997.

https://titck.gov.tr/storage/announcement/x1xTn64Z.pdf

https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1529-8019.2012.01501.x


8. Subramaniam, V. D., Prasad, S. V., Banerjee, A., Gopinath, M., Murugesan, R., Marotta, F.,

Sun, X.F. and Pathak, S. Health hazards of nanoparticles: understanding the toxicity

mechanism of nanosized ZnO in cosmetic products, Drug and Chemical Toxicology, 42:1, 84-

93, DOI: 10.1080/01480545.2018.1491987, 2019.

9. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), https://www.fda.gov/media/88234/download, Son

Erişim Tarihi: 03.11.2019.

10. Brannan, D. K. Cosmetic preservation. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 46: 199–220, 1995.

11. Scientific Committee on Consumer Products. Opinion of The Scientific Committee on

Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products Intended for Consumers Concerning

Methyldibromo Glutaronitrile Colipa n P77 (SCCNFP/0585/02), 2002.

12. Scientific Committee on Consumer Products SCCP Opinion in Methyldibromo glutaronitrile

(sensitisation only) COLIPA n 77 (SCCP/1013/06), 2006.

13. Adepoju-Bello, A.A., Oguntibeju, O.O., Adebishi, R.A., Okpala, N., Coker, H.A.B.

Evaluation of the concentration of toxic metals in cosmetic products in Nigeria. African

Journal of Biotechnology. 11(97):16360-16364, 2012.

14. International Programme on Chemical Safety (IPCS). Prıncıples And Methods For The Rısk

Assessment Of Chemıcals In Food (Environmental health criteria ; 240). A joint publication of

the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations and the World Health

Organization (The World Health Organization (WHO), The Food and Agriculture

Organization of the United Nations (FAO), United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP),

The International Labour Organization (ILO)). ISBN 978 92 4 157240 8 ISSN 0250-863X, p.

594-599, 2009.

15. Fraga CG. Relevance, essentiality and toxicity of trace elements in human health. Molecular

Aspects of Medicine, (26): 235–244, 2005.

16. Lee JD. Concise Inorganic Chemistry. 5th ed. London: Blackwell Science Ltd; 1996.

17. Patnaik P. A Handbook of Inorganic Chemicals. 1st ed. New York: McGraw Hill Publishers;.

pp. 140-609, 2003.

18. Lide DR. CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (86th ed). Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press;.

pp. 700 and 705, ISBN: 0-8493-0486-5, 2005.

19. Lundov, M. D., Moesby, L. , Zachariae, C. and Johansen, J. D. Contamination versus

preservation of cosmetics: a review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy.

Contact Dermatitis, 60: 70-78. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0536.2008.01501.x, 2009.

20. McEwen, G. The U.S. Cosmetic Ingredient Review: process and products. Contact Dermatitis.

FS04.8, 50: 139-139. doi:10.1111/j.0105-1873.2004.0309aq.x, 2004.

21. Cramer, G.M., Ford, R.A. and Hall, R.L. Estimation of toxic hazard - a decision tree approach.

Food and Cosmetic Toxicology. 16, 255-276, 1978.

22. Munro, I.C., Ford, R.A., Kennepohl, E. and Sprenger, J.G. Correlation of structural class with

no observed effect levels: a proposal for establishing a threshold of concern. Food and

Chemical. Toxicology. 34, 829-867, 1996.

23. European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) Scientific Committee. Scientific Opinion on

exploring options for providing advice about possible human health risks based on the concept

of Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC). EFSA Journal 2012, 10 (7), 2750 [103 pp.]

doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2012.2750, 2012.

24. Borowska, S. and Brzoska, M.M. Metals in cosmetics: implications for human health, Journal

of Applied Toxicology, Volume 35, Issue 6, pp. 551-693, https://doi.org/10.1002/jat.3129,

2015. 25. Palisoc, S., Causing, A. M. and Natividad, M. Gold

nanoparticle/hexaammineruthenium/Nafion® modified glassy carbon electrodes for trace

heavy metal detection in commercial hair dyes. Analytical Methods, 9(29), 4240-4246), 2017.

26. Volpe, M.G., Nazzaro, M., Coppola, R., Rapuano, F., Aquino, R.P. Determination and

assessments of selected heavy metals in eye shadow cosmetics from China, Italy, and USA.

https://doi.org/10.1080/01480545.2018.1491987

https://www.fda.gov/media/88234/download

https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.2008.01501.x

https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0105-1873.2004.0309aq.x

https://doi.org/10.1002/jat.3129


Microchemical Journal, 101, 65-69, journal ISSN: 0026-265X, DOI:

10.1016/j.microc.2011.10.008, 2012.

27. Zakaria, A., Ho, Y. B. Heavy metals contamination in lipsticks and their associated health

risks to lipstick consumers. Department of Environmental and Occupational Health, Faculty of

Medicine and Health Sciences, Universiti Putra Malaysia. Regulatory Toxicology and

Pharmacology.Volume 73, Issue 1, Pages 191-195,ISSN 0273-2300, 2015.

28. Bahrami, A., Besharati-Seidani, A., Abbaspour, A. and Shamsipur, M. A highly selective

voltammetric sensor for sub-nanomolar detection of lead ions using a carbon paste electrode

impregnated with novel ion imprinted polymeric nanobeads. Electrochimica Acta, Volume

118, Pages 92-99, ISSN 0013-4686, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.electacta.2013.11.180, 2014.

29. Sonneville-Aubrun O., Simonnet J-T. and L’Alloret F. Nanoemul- sions. A new vehicle for

skincare products. Adv Colloid Interface Sci: 108–109: 145–149, 2004.

30. Michalek, I. M., E. K.T. Benn, Caetano dos Santos, F. L., Gordon, S., Wen, C., Liu, B. A

systematic review of global legal regulations on the permissible level of heavy metals in

cosmetics with particular emphasis on skin lightening products, Environmental Research,

Volume 170, Pages 187-193, ISSN 0013-9351, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envres.2018.12.029,

2019. 31. Nohynek, G.J., Antignac, E., Re, T. and Toutain, H. Safety assessment of personal care

products/cosmetics and their ingredients. Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, Volume

243, Issue 2, Pages 239-259, ISSN 0041-008X, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.taap.2009.12.001,

2010. 32. Chauhan, A. S., Bhadauria, R., Singh, A. K., Lodhi, S. S., Chaturvedi, D. K., Tomar, V. S.

Determination of Lead and Cadmium in cosmetic products. Journal of Chemical and

Pharmaceutical Research. 2(6):92-9), 2010.

33. Nourmoradi, H., Foroghi, M., Farhadkhani, M. And Vahid Dastjerdi, M. “Assessment of Lead

and Cadmium Levels in Frequently Used Cosmetic Products in Iran,” Journal of

Environmental and Public Health, vol. 2013, Article ID 962727, 5 pages,

https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/962727, 2013.

34. Wiesner, M. R., Lowry, G.V., Alvarez, P., Dionysiou, D. and Biswas P. Assessing the Risks

of Manufactured Nanomaterials. Environmental Science & Technology. 40 (14), 4336-4345.

DOI: 10.1021/es062726m, 2006.

35. Chiari-Andréo, B. G., Almeida-Cincotto, M. G. J., Oshiro, J. A., Taniguchi, C. Y. Y.,

Chiavacci, L. A.,, Isaac, V. L. B. Chapter 5 - Nanoparticles for cosmetic use and its

application. Editor(s): Alexandru Mihai Grumezescu, Nanoparticles in Pharmacotherapy,

William Andrew Publishing, Pages 113-146, ISBN 9780128165041,

https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-816504-1.00013-2, 2019.

36. Santos, A. C., Morais, F., Simões, A., Pereira, I., Sequeira, J. A. D., Pereira-Silva, M., Veiga

and Ribeiro A. Nanotechnology for the development of new cosmetic F. Formulations. Expert

Opinion on Drug Delivery, 16:4, 313-330, DOI: 10.1080/17425247.2019.1585426, 2019.

37. Huang, Y.-W., Wu, C.-H. and Aronstam, R.S. Toxicity of Transition Metal Oxide

Nanoparticles: Recent Insights from in vitro Studies. Materials 3, 4842-4859, 2010.

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.electacta.2013.11.180

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envres.2018.12.029

https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/962727

https://doi.org/10.1080/17425247.2019.1585426


OP-16 (Abstract)

An Overview on Beauty and Herbal Cosmetics

Shirin TARBIAT

Uskudar University, Faculty Of Engineering and Natural Science, Department of Molecular Biology

and Genetics (English), Istanbul, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT This review is an attempt to trace out the history of cosmetics used by different civilizations over

centuries. Aspiring to maintain "eternal youth" and to look good is not new and is not just superficial

"vanity." Our human nature dictates that we take care of ourselves and enhance our appearance.

Throughout history, women from Egypt to Japan to today's movie stars have used cosmetics and

nutrients to beautify and rejuvenate. Over 25 years ago, the scientists defined the category

"cosmeceuticals" as cosmetic pharma-ceutical hybrids intended to enhance health and beauty through

ingredients that influence the skin's biological texture and function. More recently the terms

"nutricosmetics" or "nutraceuticals" have defined foods and dietary supplements that benefit the health

and beauty of the skin by directly affecting mechanisms and metabolism. There are overlaps between

nutraceuticals, beauty foods, cosmeceuticals, and cosmetics. The biotech cosmetics & foods together

represent the future challenge to solve the new consumers needs of an evolving society.

Keywords: Beauty, Cosmeceuticals, Nutricosmetics

REFERENCES

1. M.González,. Paramása Anabela., Martinsa., Maria Filomena., Barreiroc Isabel.,

C.F.R.Ferreira. Mushrooms extracts and compounds in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and

nutricosmetics. Industrial Crops and Products, 2016, 90: 38-48.

2. Talita, Pizza,. Anunciato,. MPharm & Pedro Alves da Rocha Filho,. Carotenoids and

polyphenols in nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Journal of Cosmetic

Dermatology, 2012, 11, 51–54

3. S K Chaudhri, N K Jain. History of cosmetics. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutics, 2009, - 470

003

4. Cameron, K., Rokhsar, MD., Sandra., Lee, MD., Richard E., Fitzpatrick, MD Review of

Photorejuvenation: Devices, Cosmeceuticals, or Both? Dermatologic Surgery 2006, 1524-

4725.

5. Azila, Abdul., Karim., Azrina Azlan., Fruit Pod Extracts as a Source of Nutraceuticals and

Pharmaceuticals.



FOP-17 (FullText)

Next Generation Safety Testing For Cosmetics: Genomic Allergen Rapid

Detection (GARD) for Skin and Air Respiratory System

Ahmet KATI

University of Health Sciences, Institute of Health Sciences, Department of Biotechnology, 34668,

Istanbul, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Genomic based allergy detection is a highly versatile genomic-based in-vitro testing platform for

assessment of various toxicological endpoints. Genomic detection makes use of unique genomic

biomarker signature comprising genes involved in pathways known to be relevant to the toxicological

outcome. Using the latest pattern recognition technology, the large volume of informational content

provided by this approach enables mechanism of action-based decisions, resulting in consistently high

predictive accuracy.

The genetic allergy detection methods mimic the immune system. It predicts the ability of chemical

compounds to induce skin and air respiratory sensitization. The biomarkers of genomic allergy

detection represent the various activated mechanisms in dendritic cells in response to foreign

substances. Therefore, genomic allergy detection technologies exhibit the highest predictive

performance of assays currently on the market.

Keywords: Skin allergy, biomarker, alternatives to animal test, predictive toxicology

INTRODUCTION

The animals have been used in research studies for a long time. Many numbers of experimental

animals are utilized every year around the world. Millions of them have been used for drug testing,

toxicological studies, new treatments for diseases, model organisms for medical and surgical

experiments. In 2011, nearly 4 million animals have been used in UK for research and 1,1 million

animals in USA (2009), 2,13 million animals in Germany (2001). The most used animals are mice,

rats, hamsters, rabbits, fishes, birds, guinea pigs etc [1].

During the animal-based experiments, different authorities have criticized for their pain, distress, and

death. For laboratory animals, 3Rs strategy is used which means reduction, refinement and

replacement of using them. Implement this strategy, different ex vivo, in vitro and alternative

organisms are developed by researchers [2, 3]. This strategy focuses the use of minimum number of

animals for reduction, minimization of pain and distress for refinement and changing the higher

animals with alternative approaches or lower organisms [4].

European legislation prohibited the animal testing for cosmetic research [5]. After the banning of

animal test for cosmetic product safety test, the in vitro test model strategies have accelerated the

biomarker-based identification of sensitization [6-9].

The first event is penetration of chemical or allergen to the outer epidermis of the skin. During this

acquisition phase, chemicals trigger the biotransformation processes which can both increase or

decrease the allergenic potential. The allergic chemicals produce a stable conjugate with carrier

proteins located within the skin. The stable conjugate, hapten-protein complex, starts to recognition by

the epidermal and dermal dendritic cells. This complex also react with and activate the keratinocytes



[10, 11]. And then, the lymph nodes’ dendritic cells show critical histocompatibility complex

molecules to induce the naïve T-lymphocytes (T-cells). This reaction causes the differentiation and

proliferation of allergen chemical specific memory T-cells (Figure 1).

Figure 1. The Induction Phase of Skin Sensitisation (OECD, report 168; 2012)

The allergic phase can be disclose following a subsequent contact with the same allergen. The second

reaction of allergen-specific cells activated memory T-cells are induced to secrete specific cytokines,

which triggers the release of inflammatory cytokines and mobilization of cytotoxic T-cells [10, 11].

These cells move to the epidermis of the skin and induce the specific local inflammatory response of

red rash, blisters and welts, itchy and burning skin (Figure 2).

The best-known method is local lymph node assay (LLNA) for skin sensitization assessment as an

animal-free technique [12, 13]. This technique’s approach is evaluating the proliferative response of

lymphocytes in the draining lymph nodes. LLNA provides a limited information for skin sensitization.

Because the sensitization is a complex mechanism which involves many cellular responses in

peripheral tissue and secondary lymphoid organs. This means that the allergic reactions have cascade

process, so a single biomarker does not provide enough information [14, 15]. On the other side, the in

silico methods also has been used for alternative to animal test. In silico methods are based on

quantitative structure-activity relationship (QSAR). However, this method has some trouble to

differentiate the sensitization capacity of similar molecular structure [16].

Beside these systems, in vitro cell models are used extensively to explore the sensitization capacity of

chemicals. The most frequently using is dendritic cell (DC) models. The reason of that DCs have key

function as initiators of the immune system related to skin sensitization. Other in vitro models are

measurement of CD 86 in the U-937 cell line, combination of CD86 and CD54 measurement in the

THP-1 cell line or screening the transcription activity of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2

(NRF2) in a reporter cell line. These assays are relevant, they are limited in their readout [17-19].


Figure 2. The Elicitation Phase of Skin Sensitization (OECD, report 168; 2012).

The latest in vitro test model is genomic allergen rapid detection based on predictive biomarker

signature in the myeloid cell line MUTZ-3. This cell line is a human acute myelomonocytic leukemia

cells which are represent an activity as a primary DCs for the transcriptional profile and their

functionality for inducing specific T cell responses. In this technique, a panel of reference chemicals

has been used to identify differentially regulated transcripts in MUTZ-3, depending on if the cells

were exposed to a sensitizer or a non-sensitizer [19, 20]. These responses of transcript are classified as

an immunologically relevant pathways, regulating recognition of foreign substances and leading to DC

maturation. The responses are named as genomic prediction signature.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The OECD Series on Testing and Assessment No.168 report is about “The Adverse Outcome Pathway

for Skin Sensitization Initiated by Covalent Binding to Proteins” to identify the mechanistic

knowledge of the sensitization response within an adverse outcome pathway (AOP). The AOP

includes sequencing four key events which are triggered by a chemical and the covalent binding to

protein. These four mechanistic events: 1) binding of haptens to endogenous proteins in the skin, 2)

keratinocyte activation, 3) dendritic cell activation, and 4) proliferation of antigen-specific T cells

(Figure 3). The AOP’s first key event starts molecular level that the chemical caused first reaction

which is producing hapten, followed other KEs at the cellular, organ or organism level, finally

resulting in the adverse outcome [10, 11]. The AOP helps the development of test models as a

mechanically similar to the skin for testing and assessment of chemicals.


Figure 3. Adverse Outcome Pathway for Skin Sensitization Initiated by Covalent Binding to proteins.

Key event 1: Protein Binding

The molecular initiating event is binding the chemicals to proteins for skin sensitization. The general

action is presenting the haptens which generate electrophilic after conversion and will react strongly

with nucleophiles such as glutathione or the amino acids cysteine and lysine. The haptenization ratio

can be measured by peptide reactivity assays using in chemico tools [21]. To measure the reactivity

tests work based on kinetics of reactivity or quantify the extent of peptide depletion or measure adduct

formation.

The Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay (DPRA) (OECD TG442C) is the most relevant method to

evaluate the protein reactivity. This method measures depletion of cysteine and lysine with HPLC. The

DPRA’s accuracy rate is 80% to discriminate skin sensitizers from non-sensitizers after the testing the

dataset of 157 substances. The sensitivity and specificity are 80% and 77% when compared tp LLNA

results, respectively [22, 23].

Key event 2: Keratinocyte Activation

The second step of molecular mechanism of skin sensitization is activation of keratinocytes that results

in inflammatory responses and activation of antioxidant response element (ARE)-dependent pathways.

To evaluate the keratinocyte activation can be used different read-outs. The inflammatory cytokine IL-

18 is used for defined the activation of keratinocytes after exposure to skin sensitizers [24]. The

second method is measurement of activation of ARE dependent pathways for example Keap1-Nrf2

pathway [25]. These pathways are responsible cyto-protective responses to oxidative and electrophilic

stress and is activated after exposure to skin sensitizers [26]. To develop the skin sensitization assays,

the keratinocyte and reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) models are used. These models are

commercially available.

Key event 3: Dendritic Cell Activation

When reacting the skin with skin sensitizers, dendritic and Langerhans cell maturation and migration

is a key step in the immune response of skin. These cells’ number normally very limited in healthy

skin and they are immature normally. The maturation rate is measured by expression of cell surface


markets, human leucocyte antigen and production, signal transduction. These factors are parameters

for the sensitizer exposure [27].

The human cell line activation test (h-CLAT), which measures in vitro dendritic cell activation based

on CD54 and CD86 expression by the human THP-1 monocytic cell line. The accuracy rate is 83%, a

sensitivity of 83%, specifity of 67% compared to human data. However, the h-CLAT gives false-

negative results for chemicals with a low-to-moderate skin sensitization potency. Also, the low water-

soluble chemicals produce false-negative results [28-30].

Key event 4: T-cell Activation

In this KE, there is no validated or standardized assays because of the T-cells based assays are

complex and challenging. The challenging problem comes from T cell priming that involves complex

molecular and cellular processes in both the skin and lymph nodes [31]. Another risk is the high

variability of the assay caused by the donor-to- donor variations in T cell resource between blood

donors.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS

After European legislation and regulation for the animal test usage for cosmetic research, the in vitro

test development has been forced to develop very rapidly. This regulatory endorsement provides in

vitro models based on one out of three key events of AOP. The first approach (KE1) starts with the

haptenation of skin proteins and measuring the ability of test chemicals to covalently bind to proteins

(DPRA). The second approach (KE2) starts with the generation of danger signals by keratinocytes

which uses the Nrf2-Keap-1-antioxidant response element (ARE) pathway. The third approach (KE3)

starts with the activation of dendritic cells measured by the elevated expression of cell surface

molecules and inflammatory cytokines [32-34].

The development of alternative assay focuses the mechanistically relevant system to the skin. The

identification of biomarker signature are based on two approaches which are antigen-presenting cells

and epithelial cells which shows phenotypic alterations induced by chemicals. During the sensitization

progress, the cells show different danger signals, such as i) oxidative stress responses, (ii)

inflammasome complex formation, and (iii) pro-inflammatory cytokine and chemokine signaling, and

dendritic cell activation and maturation, (iv) pattern recognition receptors, heat shock proteins, and

mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) activation, (v) immunological self-defense mechanisms,

(vi) cell migration, and (vii) innate immune system activation and xenobiotic recognition which must

be followed and measured by high-throughput technologies.

The best promising combination is using the cells data with genomic or proteomic technologies. The

global genomic and proteomic databases include the identification of entire networks, regulated

pathways which are induced by sensitizers or non-sensitizers. Especially, the transcriptomic data has a

major potential to identified biomarker signatures that differentiate the skin sensitization chemicals

from others using myeloid DC-like cells [35-37].

Summarily, the single-point assays provide limited data to be accepted as standalone skin sensitization

tests that can be replace animal tests. So, the regulatory parts, companies, and researchers are seeking

the wide-ranging technologies to meet the desired goal of alternative, high performance and high

informational content. The genomic based alternative assays using the predictive biomarker signature

to measurement of DC activation. By the help of omics-based techniques generates very well data to

identify the sensitizers and non-sensitizers.

In conclusion, the integration of a genomic-based test system can enable the monitoring of

comprehensive key events described by the OECD Adverse Outcome Pathways.

REFERENCES

1. Doke, Sonali K., and Shashikant C. Dhawale. "Alternatives to animal testing: A

review." Saudi Pharmaceutical Journal 23.3 (2015): 223-229.


2. Rollin, Bernard E. "Toxicology and new social ethics for animals." Toxicologic

pathology 31.1_suppl (2003): 128-131.

3. Ranganatha, N., and I. J. Kuppast. "A review on alternatives to animal testing methods in drug

development." International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences 4.SUPPL 5

(2012): 28-32.

4. Hendriksen, Coenraad FM. "Replacement, reduction and refinement alternatives to animal use

in vaccine potency measurement." Expert review of vaccines 8.3 (2009): 313-322.

5. Vinardell, M. P. "The use of non-animal alternatives in the safety evaluations of cosmetics

ingredients by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)." Regulatory Toxicology

and Pharmacology 71.2 (2015): 198-204.

6. Zeller, Kathrin S., et al. "An alternative biomarker-based approach for the prediction of

proteins known to sensitize the respiratory tract." Toxicology in Vitro 46 (2018): 155-162.

7. Forreryd, Andy, et al. "Prediction of chemical respiratory sensitizers using GARD, a novel in

vitro assay based on a genomic biomarker signature." PloS one 10.3 (2015): e0118808.

8. Thélu, A., S. Catoire, and S. Kerdine-Römer. "Immune-competent in vitro co-culture models

as an approach for skin sensitisation assessment." Toxicology in Vitro (2019): 104691.

9. Vocanson, Marc, et al. "Effector and regulatory mechanisms in allergic contact

dermatitis." Allergy 64.12 (2009): 1699-1714.

10. OECD, 2012a. The Adverse Outcome Pathway for Skin Sensitisation Initiated by Covalent

Binding to Proteins Part 1 Scientific Evidence. OECD, ed. 168. pp. 59.

11. OECD, 2012b. The Adverse Outcome Pathway for Skin Sensitisation Initiated by Covalent

Binding to Proteins Part 2 Use of the AOP to Develop Chemical Categories and Integrated

Assessment and Testing Approaches. OECD, ed. 168. pp. 46.

12. Kleinstreuer, N.C., Hoffmann, S., Alepee, N., Allen, D., Ashikaga, T., Casey, W., Clouet, E.,

Cluzel, M., Desprez, B., Gellatly, N., Gobel, C., Kern, P.S., Klaric, M., Kuhnl, J., Martinozzi-

Teissier, S., Mewes, K., Miyazawa, M., Strickland, J., van Vliet, E., Zang, Q., Petersohn, D.,

2018. Non-animal methods to predict skin sensitization (II): an assessment of defined

approaches. Crit Rev Toxicol 1–16.

13. Basketter, D. A., et al. "Local lymph node assay—validation, conduct and use in

practice." Food and Chemical Toxicology 40.5 (2002): 593-598.

14. Alves, Vinicius M., et al. "Predicting chemically-induced skin reactions. Part II: QSAR

models of skin permeability and the relationships between skin permeability and skin

sensitization." Toxicology and applied pharmacology 284.2 (2015): 273-280.

15. Kimber, I., et al. "The local lymph node assay: developments and

applications." Toxicology 93.1 (1994): 13-31.

16. Ezendam, Janine, Hedwig M. Braakhuis, and Rob J. Vandebriel. "State of the art in non-

animal approaches for skin sensitization testing: from individual test methods towards testing

strategies." Archives of toxicology 90.12 (2016): 2861-2883.

17. Lindstedt, Malin, and Carl Borrebaeck. "Pattern rules: biomarker signatures for sensitization

as an alternative to animal testing." Biomarkers in medicine 5.6 (2011): 809-811.

18. Grundström, Gunilla, and Carl AK Borrebaeck. "Skin Sensitization Testing—What’s

Next?." International journal of molecular sciences 20.3 (2019): 666.

19. Johansson, Henrik, et al. "A genomic biomarker signature can predict skin sensitizers using a

cell-based in vitro alternative to animal tests." BMC genomics 12.1 (2011): 399.

20. Albrekt, Ann-Sofie, et al. "Skin sensitizers differentially regulate signaling pathways in

MUTZ-3 cells in relation to their individual potency." BMC Pharmacology and

Toxicology 15.1 (2014):5.

21. OECD (2015a) OECD guidelines for the testing of chemicals, Sec- tion 4. Test No. 442C: in

chemico skin sensitisation: Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay (DPRA). OECD Publishing, Paris

22. Gerberick, G. Frank, et al. "Development of a peptide reactivity assay for screening contact

allergens." Toxicological Sciences 81.2 (2004): 332-343.


23. Gerberick, G. Frank, et al. "Quantification of chemical peptide reactivity for screening contact

allergens: a classification tree model approach." Toxicological Sciences 97.2 (2007): 417-427.

24. Galbiati, V., et al. "Further development of the NCTC 2544 IL-18 assay to identify in vitro

contact allergens." Toxicology in Vitro 25.3 (2011): 724-732.

25. Van Och, François MM, et al. "Assessment of potency of allergenic activity of low molecular

weight compounds based on IL-1α and IL-18 production by a murine and human keratinocyte

cell line." Toxicology 210.2-3 (2005): 95-109.

26. Natsch, Andreas. "The Nrf2-Keap1-ARE toxicity pathway as a cellular sensor for skin

sensitizers—functional relevance and a hypothesis on innate reactions to skin

sensitizers." Toxicological Sciences 113.2 (2009): 284-292.

27. Casati, Silvia, et al. "Dendritic cells as a tool for the predictive identification of skin

sensitisation hazard: the report and recommendations of ECVAM workshop 51." Alternatives

to Laboratory Animals 33.1 (2005): 47-62.

28. Ashikaga, Takao, et al. "A comparative evaluation of in vitro skin sensitisation tests: the

human cell-line activation test (h-CLAT) versus the local lymph node assay

(LLNA)." Alternatives to Laboratory Animals 38.4 (2010): 275-284.

29. Sakaguchi, H., et al. "Development of an in vitro skin sensitization test using human cell lines;

human Cell Line Activation Test (h-CLAT) II. An inter-laboratory study of the h-

CLAT." Toxicology in vitro 20.5 (2006): 774-784.

30. Sakaguchi, Hitoshi, et al. "Predicting skin sensitization potential and inter-laboratory

reproducibility of a human Cell Line Activation Test (h-CLAT) in the European Cosmetics

Association (COLIPA) ring trials." Toxicology in Vitro 24.6 (2010): 1810-1820.

31. Martin, Stefan F., et al. "T-cell recognition of chemicals, protein allergens and drugs: towards

the development of in vitro assays." Cellular and molecular life sciences 67.24 (2010): 4171-

4184.

32. Williams, W. C., et al. "Development and utilization of an ex vivo bromodeoxyuridine local

lymph node assay protocol for assessing potential chemical sensitizers." Journal of Applied

Toxicology 35.1 (2015): 29-40.

33. Mehling, Annette, et al. "Non-animal test methods for predicting skin sensitization

potentials." Archives of toxicology 86.8 (2012): 1273-1295.

34. Williams, W. C., et al. "Development and utilization of an ex vivo bromodeoxyuridine local

lymph node assay protocol for assessing potential chemical sensitizers." Journal of Applied

Toxicology 35.1 (2015): 29-40.

35. Forreryd, Andy, et al. "Evaluation of high throughput gene expression platforms using a

genomic biomarker signature for prediction of skin sensitization." BMC genomics 15.1 (2014):

379.

36. Johansson, Henrik, and Malin Lindstedt. "Prediction of skin sensitizers using alternative

methods to animal experimentation." Basic & clinical pharmacology & toxicology 115.1

(2014): 110-117.

37. Johansson, Henrik, et al. "Validation of the GARD™ skin Assay for Assessment of Chemical

Skin Sensitizers: Ring Trial Results of Predictive Performance and

Reproducibility." Toxicological Sciences (2019).


OP-18 (Abstract)

Herbal Cosmetics Products Market Development

Nazım ŞEKEROĞLU

Department of Horticulture, Faculty of Agriculture, Kilis 7 Aralik University, Kilis 79000, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Beauty conception of the women is steadily changing in the last two decades. Healthy and natural

beauty products like natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cosmetics, organic cosmetics herbal cosmetics,

blue cosmetics; green cosmetics etc. have becoming more preferred nowadays. Moreover,

nutricosmetics, a new concept in cosmetic field, are being most popular among the consumers. So,

cosmetics terms and natural products used for beauty have evolved very quickly. This great evaluation

could be thought as new and big opportunities for cosmetic sectors, recently. Among the natural

cosmetics, herbal cosmetics produced different parts of medicinal and aromatic plants, known as

cosmetic plants also, have a big portion in the market. Having useful phytochemicals and free of

hazardous chemicals, cosmetic plants have been used in the formulations of natural beauty products,

make-up products, skin-care products, hair-care products, conditioners, personal-care products etc.

World total cosmetics market has amazingly growing up, recently. Similarly, share of natural and

herbal cosmetics in the total sales have rapidly risen when compared to synthetic cosmetics products.

With the human beings becoming more concerned about their appearances, cosmetic sales would be

expected to grow dramatically in the future throughout the world. It is estimated that Global Cosmetics

Market could reach 488 billion USD by 2025; growing at a CAGR of 3.7% from 2017 to 2025 period.

Global market size of natural cosmetics was about 34.5 USD billion in 2018 and global sales of the

products are expected to reach 54.5 USD billion until 2027, at a CAGR of 5.2%. Cosmetics include

products which are used to improve the appearance or fragrance of the body, usually used over skin

and hair. Increasing demand for herbal and organic cosmetics, and increasing disposable income are

thought to be the major factors impacting the cosmetics market growth over the forecasted period.

Among the herbal products in cosmetics, skin-care, hair-care, lip-care, eye-care, creams, lotions, gel,

oils, perfumes and fragrances are the most common ones in the market.

Key words: Natural cosmetics, herbal cosmetics, global market, cosmetic products




FPP-01 (FullText)

Comparison of Nano Zinc Oxide and Zinc Oxide in Some Cosmetics

Products Used with Essential Oils

M. Kemal SANGÜN

1*, Güray KILINÇÇEKER

2, Cemal TURAN

3,

Atilla ÇEKİÇ4, Naim HABİBOĞLU

5

1*Hatay Mustafa Kemal University, Faculty of Sciences and Letters, Department of Chemistry,

31060, Antakya, Hatay, Turkey 2Cukurova University, Faculty of Sciences and Letters, Department of Chemistry, Balcalı, Adana,

01330, Turkey 3Iskenderun Technical University, Faculty of Marine Science and Technology, 31200 Iskenderun,

Hatay, Turkey 4Hatay Mustafa Kemal University, Technolohy, Research and Development Center (MARGEM),

31060, Antakya, Hatay, Turkey 5Habiboğlu Kozmetik Eski İskenderun Yolu No: 54-56, 31000 Kuzeytepe-Antakya-Hatay, Turkey


ABSTRACT

Nano technology and also essential oils of natural plants have always been used as a source of

cosmetics. In this study, universities and producers have set up a Research&Development program to

produce Nano Zinc oxide (ZnO) to use in cosmetics. The aim of this study was to investigate the use

of nano zinc oxide with some essentials oils for cosmetics.

Nano technology is beginning to be used in cosmetics due to their size and effect in products. A

method is developed to produce nano zinc oxide in laboratory conditions from the pure zinc. The

produced Nano zinc oxide is analyzed by X-Ray Diffractometer (XRD) and Scanning Electron

Microscope (SEM) and compared to zinc oxide which is commonly used in cosmetic area. The aim of

this study was to investigate the use of nano zinc oxide with some essentials oils for cosmetics. For

this purpose, obtained nano zinc oxide is used some cosmetic products such as sun cream, shampoo,

hand creams and hair cream. The products are also analyzed and compared by SEM. The results show

that the nano zinc oxide can be an alternative source to use in the cosmetic field.

Keywords: Nano Zinc Oxide, Zinc Oxide, Essential Oils, Cosmetic Products

INTRODUCTION

Zinc oxide nanoparticles have many therapeutic effects, where they may have antibacterial, anticancer,

immunomodulatory, sunscreen and antioxidant effects, or they may be used as an adjuvant treatment

to chemotherapeutic drugs to alleviate their toxic effects [1].

Zinc oxide is a common ingredient found in many sunscreens that are effective in blocking ultraviolet

A (UVA) rays [2]. While it is an effective physical sun blocker, it does have some cosmetic

drawbacks. The efficacy and cosmetic nuisance are due to the size of the zinc particle. To reduce the

opaque appearance of zinc oxide, many sunscreen companies are making the particle smaller through

a process referred to as “micronizing” to produce nanosized zinc particles. Nanoparticles are particles

are typically less than 100 nanometers in diameter or 0.1 microns. As the size of these particles

decreases, the surface area covered on the skin increases, as well as the reduction of the opaque

appearance without compromising the UV coverage [3]. Nanoparticles (20 to 200 nm) contacting



intact or partially damaged skin cannot penetrate skin barrier and permeate to lower strata making

them safe as cosmeceuticals [4].


Nano-sized ZnO particles were prepared by chemical reaction through aqueous solutions of zinc di-

acetate di-hydrate and sodium hydroxide (pH=9.5-10) at low temperature.

Zn(CH3COO)2 2H2O(aq) + 2NaOH(aq) Zn(OH)2(s)↓ + 2Na+(aq) +2CH3COO-(aq) + 2H2O (aq)

Zn(OH)2(s) ZnO(s) + H2O(g)

Analysis of Purity:

X-Ray Diffractometer (XRD): Rigaku Smart Lab XRD is used for the analysis of the particles.

Analysis of Size:

Scanning Electron Microscobe (SEM): JEOL JSM-5500LV Scanning Electron Microscobe is used to

analysis of the size of particules.


X-Ray Diffraction results showed that the as-prepared particles were zinc oxide.

Figure1. Chromatogram of X-Ray Diffraction Analyze.


The results of SEM images are given below.

Figure 1-2. The SEM images of technical ZnO.

Figure 3-4. The SEM images of bio ZnO.

Figure 5-6. Bio ZnO in shampoo.


Figure 7-8. Produced Nano ZnO.

Figure 9-10. Hair Cream with Laurel oil and Nano ZnO.

Figure 11-12. Garlic Shampoo with Nano ZnO.


Figure 13-14. Hand cream with Olive oil and Nano ZnO.

The results showed that nano zinc is produced and can be use in cosmetic products.

CONCLUSION ZnO nanoparticle have a commercial interest in cosmetic area. The synthesized ZnO nano particules

used in garlic, Laurus Nobilis L. and olive oil as a shampoo, hand cream and hair cream. The results of

SEM and XRD showed that the ZnO was successfully synthesized by precipitation method in nanosize

range about 1µm-10nm. The synthesized ZnO nano-powder obtained exhibit good crystallinity in the

cosmetic products with essential oils. The synthesized ZnO is compared the present ZnO and biozinc

products.

As a result, the synthesized ZnO can be use in cosmetic products with essential oils.

REFERENCES

1. Elshama, S.S., Abdallah, M.E., Abdel-Karim, R.I., ‘Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles: Therapeutic

Benefits and Toxicological Hazards’ The Open Nanomedicine Journal, 5, 16-22, 2018.

2. Holban, A.M., Grumezescu, A.M., Andronescu, E., ‘Chapter 10 - Inorganic

nanoarchitectonics designed for drug delivery and anti-infective surfaces’ Surface Chemistry

of Nanobiomaterials; Applications of Nanobiomaterials Volume 3, Pages 301-327, 2016.

3. Smijs TG, Pavel S. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on

their safety and effectiveness. Nanotechnol Sci Appl. 4:95-112, 2011.

4. Campbell, C.S.J.; Contreras-Rojas, L.R.; Delgado-Charro, M.B.; Guy, R.H. Objective

assessment of nanoparticle disposition in mammalian skin after topical exposure. J. Control.

Release, 162, 201–207, 2012.


FPP-02 (FullText)

Using Propolis as an Antimicrobial Agent in Syrian Rue Herbal Cream

Neslihan ŞİRİN

1, Gülşah AYDIN

1, Nisa SİPAHİ

1, Tuğba Türken AKÇAY

1, Haydar GÖKSU

2

1 Duzce University, Traditional and Complementary Medicine Practice and Research Center, 81100,

Duzce, Turkey 2 Duzce University, Kaynasli Vocational College, 81100, Duzce, Turkey


ABSTRACT

In the process of Duzce University Environmental and Health Specialization process, it is aimed to

contribute to the local people and the economy as a result of providing natural-herbal products with

high yields and conducting R & D studies in Duzce region. The aim of this study was to investigate

the antimcrobial preservative activity of propolis collected from Duzce region in water based cream

mixtures and to provide detailed information in accredited laboratories.

Keywords: Antimicrobial, Propolis, Protective activity, Syrian Rue, Cream.

INTRODUCTION

In the Environmental and Health specialization process carried out by Duzce University, it is aimed to

grow natural and herbal products according to the geographical structure of the region, and to

contribute to health tourism and the production of natural herbal products as a result of the harvesting

and R & D of these products. For this purpose, R & D studies of natural products obtained from the

region are carried out and final forms are given to the products.

Propolis, a natural product, is a resinous substance that honey bees collect from different plants. Bees

cover the cracks in their hives with perforated propolis[1]. Thus, they ensure that the bucket is

strengthened, airtight and defensive. It is also used for embalming the remnants of living things that

die or enter from the hive. This adhesive property can have chemical effect as well as mechanical

effect. The fact that the bacteria and mold formation in the propolis hive is less than the external

environment suggests that propolis is a feature that does not allow microorganisms to survive. As a

matter of fact, some substances in propolis have been isolated and discovered to have antibacterial and

antifungal properties[2]. Syrian rue in the Zyophylaceae family is used in herbal medicine because of

its less toxic effects and economical[3]. In addition to the antidepressant[4, 5] and stimulant effect[4]

of Syrian rue extract, the plant also has antibacterial and antifungal effects[6, 7].

It is planned to obtain a natural protective which can be used instead of synthetic preservative by

investigating the protective effect of propolis by making a cream in which propolis and Syrian rue are

formulated together.


The raw materials required for cream production are obtained from commercial vendors and the

application doses are determined with the help of literature. In the first stage of the experiment, water

extraction of natural preservative propolis is carried out and different concentrations are prepared. The

raw materials provided for the production of Syrian rue hearbal cream are mixed according to the

specified dosages under appropriate conditions, and propolis extracts of different concentrations are

added and a reduced mixture of concentrated propolis cream is obtained. In order to determine which



concentration of propolis in this obtained cream has the minimum antimicrobial protective effect, the

cream mixture is subjected to microbiological contamination and protective effect is determined by

aerobic plaque counting at certain time intervals.


During the specialization process, the antimicrobial activity of propolis obtained from Duzce is

determined and its protective activity is investigated. As a result of the preliminary study, it can be

converted into commercial natural product form by conducting detailed researches in accredited

laboratories.

REFERENCES

1. Burdock, G., Review of the biological properties and toxicity of bee propolis (propolis). Food

and Chemical toxicology, 1998. 36(4): p. 347-363.

2. Ghisalberti, E.L., Propolis: A Review. Bee World, 2015. 60(2): p. 59-84.

3. Koçak, Y. and A. Şahin, Peganum harmala L.(üzerlik) tohum ekstresinin analjezik aktivitesi

ve akut toksisitesinin fareler üzerinde belirlenmesi. Yüzüncü Yıl Üniversitesi Veteriner

Fakültesi Dergisi, 2009. 20(1): p. 27-30.

4. Sassoui, D., et al., Evaluation of phytochemical constituents by GC-MS and antidepressant

activity of Peganum harmala L. seeds extract. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Disease,

2015. 5(12): p. 971-974.

5. Herraiz, T., et al., β-Carboline alkaloids in Peganum harmala and inhibition of human

monoamine oxidase (MAO). Food and Chemical Toxicology, 2010. 48(3): p. 839-845.

6. Altinterim, B., Üzerlik tohumun [Peganum harmala]'daki harmalinin SSRIs [Selectif serotonin

geri alım inhibitör] etkisi. Çağdaş Tıp Dergisi, 2012. 2(3): p. 201-203.

7. El‐Rifaie, M.E.S., Peganum harmala: its use in certain dermatoses. International journal of

dermatology, 1980. 19(4): p. 221-222.


FPP-03 (FullText)

Investigation of Antimicrobial Efficiency of Herbal Mix as Natural

Preservative in Shampoo

Mehmet Onur TÜRKDOĞRU

1, Erol ARIKAYA

1, Ali Bahadır ÇELİK

1, Nilgün BAYSAL

2,

Tijen ZİYAL3, Selin SAYIN

4, İlker SAYGILI

5

1GDA Laboratory Services Food Chemistry Environmental Training Cons. Industry and Trade

Limited Company, 34841, Maltepe, İstanbul, Turkey 2Bekaferd İç ve Dış Ticaret San. Ltd. Şti., 38010, Kocasinan, Kayseri, Turkey

3 CHR Doğal Yaşam ve Sağlık Ürünleri Tur. San. Tic. Ltd. Şti., 34212, Bağcılar, İstanbul, Turkey

4Iskenderun Technical University, Faculty of Marine Sciences and Technology, 31230 Hatay, Turkey 5Sanko University, Faculty of Medicine, Department of Medical Biochemistry/Molecular Medicine,

27090, Gaziantep, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

In our study, shampoo was treated with 2 % Asatim Simurg (Rumex acetocella- rumex acetosa,

Achillea millefolium- yarrow, Plantago lanceolata- plantago 100% local herbal liquid mix) and 1%

white mulberry leaf extract. Then, investigation of inhibitor efficiency of herbal liquid extract mix

against Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Escherichia coli

ATCC 8739, Candida albicans ATCC, Aspergillus brasiliensis ATCC 16404 populations according to

ISO 11930

Keywords: Natural preservative, Antimicrobial efficiency, Herbal extract, Mulberry leaf extract.

INTRODUCTION

Cosmetis are not steril products and not need to be sterile. But they should protect from kind of

microbial contamination. Because, cosmetics users can contamine cosmetics products with our body

part etc. [1]. Microbial contamination of cosmetic products is a matter of great importance to the industry

and it can become a majör cause of both product and economic losses. Microbiologists working in the field

of cosmetics are frequently required to design preservative systems that provide good protection of

cosmetic products against microbial contamination [2]. Cosmetic companies uses kind of chemical

preservatives (benzyl alcohol, boric acid, sorbic acid, chlorhexidine, formaldehyde, parabens,

quaternary ammonium compounds, phenol, imidazolidinyl compounds etc.) [3,4] But, traditionally

used chemical preservatives often cause skin irritation and lead to allergenic reactions. Growing

demands for more natural and preservative-free cosmetics promoted an idea of the replacement of

synthetic preservatives with essential oils of antimicrobial properties [5]. Also, Morus alba, a

medicinal plant in Asia, has been used traditionally to treat diabetes mellitus and atopic dermatitis [6].


The evaluation of the preservation of a cosmetic formulation is based on inoculation of the

formulation with calibrated inocula (prepared from relevant referance strains of microorganisms). The

number of living microorganisms were measured at defined intervals during a period of 28 days. For

each time and each strain, the log reduction value was calculated and compared to the minimum

values required for evaluation criteria A or B. ISO 11290 method was performed [7].


Microbial referance strains used The test was performed using the following reference strains as test microorganisms:

Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC®9027, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC®6538, Escherichia coli

ATCC®8739, Candida albicans ATCC®10231, Aspergillus brasiliensis (previously A. niger)

ATCC®16404

Used as reference strains (Microbiologics Company, Minnesota USA) was provided from the GDA

Laboratory Services reference strain collection. The turbidity of the suspension was adjusted

according to the turbidity equivalent to the McFarland 0.5 standard (McFarland 0.5 Barim Sulphate

Standart, Liofilchem, Ref: 80400). Adjustment was done by densitometer device (Biosan

Densitometer DEN-1, Latvia) (Figure-1, 2) All strains were inoculated with decimal dilutions for

control of microorganism strain amount. (Table-1) [7].

Table 1. Amounts of inoculated microorganisms Strain Name N* N0

** Unit

Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC ®9027 4,9x10

8

4,6x106

cfu/mL

Staphylococcus aureus ATCC®6538 1,6x10

8

1,4x106

cfu/mL

Escherichia coli ATCC®8739 5,7x10

8

5,9x106

cfu/mL

Candida albicans ATCC®10231 2,7x10

7

2,9x105

cfu/mL

Aspergillus brasiliensis (previously A.

niger) ATCC®16404 5,4x10

7

5,8x105

cfu/mL

*N, count of microorganisms in mL

**N0, the number of microorganisms inoculated in the formulation at time t0

Figure 1. Densitometer device Figure 2. Decimal dilutions.

Inoculation of test microorganisms and Incubation of the inoculated formulation Add to each container 0,2 ml of calibrated inoculum to obtain between 1x10

5 cfu/ml and 1x10

6 cfu/ml

or g for bacteria, and between 1x104 cfu/ml and 1x10

5 cfu/ml or g for C. albicans and A. brasiliensis

in the formulation (final concentration). Mix thoroughly to ensure a homogeneous distribution of the

inoculum. Store the containers holding the inoculated formulation at (22,5±2, 5) °C [7].

Sampling and enumeration At each specified sampling interval, 7 days (T7), 14 days (T14) and 28 days (T28), according to the

test strain were took 1 g or 1 ml of the inoculated formulation. Analysis was performed. Microbial

enumeration using a suitable agar medium (TSA for bacteria, SDA for C.albicans or PDA for

A.brasiliensis). Microbial enumeration was performed in duplicate. Petri dishes were incubated at

(32,5 ± 2,5) °C for 48 h to 72 h for the bacteria and C.albicans and at (22,5 ± 2,5) °C for 3 days to 5

days for A. Brasiliensis [7].



In this study, it were seen that all strains were not detected in the samples of shampoo sample which

we contaminated with strains and when the Asatim® herbal liquid extract and white mulberry leaf

extract mixture was added. (Table 2) Also, according to ISO 11930, the criteria in (Table 3) are

provided.

Table 2. Results of Analysis, at times 7th, 14th and 28th. Strain Name T7 N14 T28

Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC ®9027 <10 <10 <10

Staphylococcus aureus ATCC®6538 <10 <10 <10 Escherichia coli ATCC®8739 <10 <10 <10 Candida albicans ATCC®10231 <10 <10 <10 Aspergillus brasiliensis (previously A.

niger) ATCC®16404

<10 <10 <10

Table 3. Evaluation criteria. Log reduction values (Rx= lgN0-lgNx) requireda

Microorganisms Bacteria C. albicans A. brasiliensis

Sampling time T7 T14 T28 T7 T14 T28 T14 T28

Criteria A ≥3

≥3

and NIb

≥3

and NI ≥1

≥1

and NI

≥1

and NI ≥0

c

≥1

and NI

Criteria A Not

performed ≥3

≥3

and NIb

Not

performed ≥1

≥1

and NI ≥0

≥0

and NI a In this test, an acceptable range of deviation of 0,5 log is accepted

b NI: no increase in the count from the previous contact time.

c Rx=0 when lgN0=lgNx (no increase from the initial count).

CONCLUSION

Thereby, Asatim® herbal liquid extract and white mulberry leaf extract mixture can be used as a

natural antimicrobial preservative in shampoo products before final packaging (primary and secondary

packaging.) It is concluded that such a product (e.g. Asatim®) is very good solution instead of

synthetic chemical preservatives. Especially, flora of Turkey has lots of useful plants (medical or other

endemic plants) Thus, both the availability of our country's natural resources and the production of

healthier shampoo products will be ensured.

Niratker at al. reported that the Methanolic and Ethanolic extract of Morus indica was screened against

five different pathogens and showed significant antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus ,

Aspergillus niger and Penicillium . They have been observed that ethanolic extract has maximum

antibacterial activity against S.aureus (12mm). Among both solvents methanolic extracts has

maximum antifungal activity against Aspergillus (30mm) followed by Penicillium (29mm). The

present study shows that mulberry (Morus indica) leaf possess antimicrobial property as well as

antifungal activity [8].

Yiğit et al. reported that the methanol and water extracts from both Black mulberry (Morus nigra)

fruits and leaves were active against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. The black mulberry

extracts proved to be active against 4 of the 5 bacteria species tested in this study. The highest

antibacterial activity was exhibited by methanol extract of mulberry leaves against S. aureus with 18

mm inhibition zone and 0.156 mg/ml MIC value. Also good antibacterial potentials were detected

against E. aerogenes, E. coli, and P. aeruginosa with these extracts. Black mulberry extracts did not

show any antibacterial activity against P. mirabilis [9].

Also, Kola et al. (2019) reported that Asatim herbal extract mix have been shown to possess potent

antimicrobial activity in shampoo products [10].


REFERENCES 1. Geis, A. editor. Cosmetic Microbioloy A Practical Approach: Published/Taylor & Francis; 2006, 311 p.

ISBN: 9780849314537 0849314534

2. Orus, P., Leranoz, S., Current trends in cosmetic Microbiology. International Microbiology Official

Journal of the Spanish Society for Microbiology. 2005, 8(2): 77-79

3. Halla, N., Fernandes P. I., Heleno A. S., Costa P., Otmani-Boucherit, Z., Boucherit, K., Rodriges, A. E.,

Ferreria, C.F.R., Barreiro, M. F., Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies, Molecules-

Open Access Journal. 2018, 23 (6): 1571, DOI: 10.3390/molecules23071571

4. ISO 21150, Cosmetics- Microbiology- Detection of Escherichica coli. 2015, p, ICS 07.100.99;

71.100.70

5. Herman, A., Herman, A.P., Domagalska, B.W., Młynarczyk, A., Essential Oils and Herbal Extracts as

Antimicrobial Agents in Cosmetic Emulsion. Indian Journal of Microbiology. 2012, 53(2): 232–237,

DOI: 10.1007/s12088-012-0329-0

6. Lim, H-S., Ha, H., Lee, H., Lee, J.K., Lee, M-Y., Shin, H-K., Morus alba L. suppresses the

development of atopic dermatitis induced by the house dust mite in NC/Nga mice. BMC

Complementary and Alternatie Medicine, 2016, 23 (14): 139, DOI: 10.1186/1472-6882-14-139

7. ISO 11930, Cosmetics- Microbiology- Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product.

2017, 19 p, ICS 07.100.40

8. Niratker, R.C., Niratker. M, Niratker. P., Antimicrobial activity of leaf extract of Morus indica

(Mulberry) from Chhattisgarh. Asian Journal of Plant Science and Research. 2015, 5 (1): 28-31, ISSN :

2249-7412

9. Yiğit, D., Yiğit N., Antibacterial Activity of Black Mulberry (Morus nigra) Fruits and Leaves. Erzincan

University Journal of Science and Technology. 2008, 1(1): 39-48, ISSN 1307-9085, e-ISSN 2149-4584

10. Kola, O., Türkdoğru, M.O., Yıldız, G., Gecesefa, Ö.F., Ercan, K., Eskici, A., Parim, A., İnanlı, G.,

Investigation of Antimicrobial Efficiency of Herbal Mix as Natural Preservative in Shampoo, 9th

Congress on Chemistry Manufacturing and Standardization of Cosmetics 22-24 February 2019,

abstract book, 59p.

https://doi.org/10.1186/1472-6882-14-139


FPP-04 (FullText)

Preparation of Organo-Inorganoclays for Different Cosmetic Applications

and their Characterization Using Zeta Potential and XRD Measurements

İldem AKIN

1, Hande ÖZSIR

1, Günseli ÖZDEMİR*

2

1 Ege University, Chemical Engineering Department, İzmir

2 Prof. Dr., Ege University, Chemical Engineering Department, İzmir


ABSTRACT

Clay minerals are alumina silicate compounds derived from nature. Montmorillonite (MMT) type clay

is a mineral with a high cation exchange capacity that has a layered structure. The surface of the layers

is negatively charged and can be converted from hydrophilic to organophilic structure by an ion-

exchange reaction using cationic surfactants such as alkyl ammonium or alkyl phosphonium type.

Organo-montmorillonites have the properties as thickener, binder, dispersant, emulsion stabilizer,

opacifier and they are effective against acne, and have a high oil absorption capacity. These properties

enable organic clays to be used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products such as

make-up materials (colorful lipsticks, powdered pancake type foundations), sunscreens, skin care

products, nail lacquers, bath products, lip-protecting sticks and the like. This study includes the

preparation of organic and organic-inorganic montmorillonite type clays using cationic and anionic

surfactants and heavy metal ions (copper-zinc). The purpose of the study was to evaluate the effect of

the different types of ions on the surface charge of the MMT platelets and on their interfacial

adsorption. Zeta potential and X-ray diffraction (XRD) measurements were used in order to find out in

which applications these organo-inorgano-montmorillonites prepared with different modifications

might be used. While zeta potential analysis gives information about the adsorption properties of the

outer surface of MMT platelets, XRD analysis gives information about the structure of

organic/inorganic ions adsorbed between the layers.

Keywords: Organo-inorgano-montmorillonites, Zeta potential, XRD, Cosmetic applications.

INTRODUCTION

Clays are widely used in cosmetic and personal care products. Clay minerals, particularly

montmorillonites (MMT), are important inorganic soil components involved in the sorption of a wide

variety of inorganic and organic species. The use of MMT as an adsorbent is related mainly to its low

cost, high cation exchange capacity, large internal and external surfaces [1,2], and non-toxic

characteristics. MMT contains a crystal lattice with three layers of platelets structure. Platelets of

MMT possess a negative surface charge which is compensated by the cations present in the structure,

such as Na+ or Ca

2+ [1].

Organoclays were obtained by modification of the clay minerals with cationic, anionic or zwitterionic

surfactants. They are added to cosmetic and personal care products as thixotropic rheological control

agents, thickener, opacifier, binder, dispersant, emulsion stabilizer, and they are effective against acne,

and have a high oil absorption capacity. These properties enable organic clays to be used in a wide

variety of cosmetics and personal care products such as make-up materials, nail lacquers, sunscreens,

and skin care and lip products. Organoclays can be used in aqueous and organic fluid systems. For the

investigation of tailor-made organoclays to the intended purposes, zeta potential and XRD analyses are

especially important to characterize the materials. Zeta potential is the value of the electrostatic



potential of the surface where particles interact with one another or with other surfaces. Zeta potential

analysis enables determining the surface charge of nanoparticles in solution. X-ray diffraction (XRD)

techniques are used to characterize the surfactant ions intercalated into the interlayers of the

organoclays and to study the crystallographic structure, and chemical composition of materials.

In this investigation organo-inorgano-MMT samples were prepared using cationic and anionic

surfactants and heavy metal ions with different modifications. Singly or concomitantly adsorbed

cationic/anionic surfactants and heavy metal ions (copper/zinc) onto MMT were characterized then

using zeta potential measurement and XRD analysis. [3]. Zeta potential measurements showed the

surface charge of the differently prepared organo/inorgano MMT and XRD the surfactants and heavy

metal ions adsorbed into the interlayers causing the interlayer distances to expand or to contract

depending on the ion type intercalated [3]. The aim of the study was to find out which type of

modifications of the MMT could be used as thickener, dispersant, emulsion stabilizer, or binder in

connection with the measured zeta potential and XRD values.


Materials Used

Organomontmorillonite, cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC), N-lauroylsarcosinate sodium salt (NLS),

deionized water, Cu(NO3)2, and Zn(NO3)2.

Organo/Inorgano-MMT Preparation

Preparation with 0.7 CEC CPC + 0.7CEC/1 CEC NLS + 0.7 CEC Cu/Zn

1 g of MMT was weighed into the beaker. 50 ml of distilled water was added to the mixture. 0.17 g of

CPC was added and shaken for 1 hour. Then, 0.20 g NLS was added and shaken for 1 day.

0.144 g Cu (NO3)2 or 0.177 g Zn(NO)3 was added, respectively, to the prepared sample and agitated

for another day (for the preparation of organo/inorgano-MMT).

The next day the organo/inorgano-MMT was filtered and then transferred to a beaker and dried in an

oven at 50°C.

Sample Preparation for Zeta Potential Measurement

A solution of 10-3

M KCl was prepared using one liter ultra-pure water.

0.030 g of the samples was dispersed in 30 mL of a 10-3

M KCl solution, used as the inert electrolyte

and the slurry was stirred for 3 h. She was allowed to stand for 24 h. The solutions from the top of the

rested samples were transferred to the tubes for the zeta potential measurement. The pH value of the

suspensions was also determined. Malvern Zeta Sizer Nano-ZS was used for the zeta potential

measurement.


Zeta potential study

Zeta potential study gives information about the surface characteristics after the sorption of

cationic/anionic surfactants and/or heavy metal ions. 0.7 CEC of quaternary ammonium surfactant,

cetylpyridinium ions, adsorbs in monolayer. Table 1 shows the zeta potential of organo/inorgano

montmorillonite samples at their natural pH. To show the effect of the ions added to MMT

suspensions, modification of the MMT samples with only single ions were also prepared.

The results of the zeta potential measurements of the samples at their natural pH values showed that

the addition of CP+/Cu

2+/Zn

2+ cations decreased the surface charge of MMT-Na, indicating that

CP+/Cu

2+/Zn

2+ adsorbed also onto the outer surface of MMT platelets.


Table 1. Zeta Potential and XRD Measurement Results

Sample Type Zeta

Pot.

[mV]

pH D001

[nm]

MMT -32.3 7.35 12.9

MMT-Cu -22.8 6.20 13.3

MMT-Zn -25.4 6.92 14.9

MMT-CP -26.3 6.99 17.9

MMT-CP-NLS(0.7 CEC) -31.9 7.42 16.5

MMT-CP-NLS(1 CEC) -36.4 7.16 18.0

MMT-CP-NLS(0.7CEC)-Cu -25.6 6.05 19.4

MMT-CP-NLS(0.7CEC)-Zn -23.0 6.79 17.3

MMT-CP-NLS(1 CEC)-Cu -36.5 6.07 18.4

MMT-CP-NLS(1.0 CEC)-Zn -23.0 6.72 18.8

Introduction of anionic surfactant NLS onto the cationic surfactant adsorbed montmorillonite (MMT-

CP) samples increased the negative charge showing that NLS was successfully adsorbed onto the

MMT-CP surface forming MMT-CP-NLS. Nanoparticles with zeta potential values greater than 25

mV or less than -25 mV typically have high degrees of stability. Dispersions with a low zeta potential

value will eventually aggregate due to van der Waals inter-particle attractions. The use of the organo-

MMT prepared with cationic and anionic surfactants in aqueous medium is convenient as a dispersant

or opacifier.

The addition of Cu2+

/Zn2+

onto MMT-CP-NLS showed a different feature, while Cu2+

did not affect

the negative charge of the surface, Zn2+

decreased the surface charge remarkably. This difference may

be attributed to the different adsorption behavior of the metal ions. While Zn ions adsorbed more on

the surface, Cu ions preferred the interface positions. The XRD measurements showed that both ions

adsorbed into the interlayer, while Cu ions causing expansion, Zn ions compaction of the interlayer

distances. The reduction of the surface charge of the MMT-CP-NLS by adsorption of Cu/Zn ions

indicates that the NLS anions interact on the MMT surface with Cu/Zn cations as proposed in the

Figure 3.

The zeta potential measurement was accomplished in aqueous medium. However prepared organo-

inorgano montmorillonites may also be used in non-aqueous medium. In this case the opposite of the

conditions are valid compared to aqueous medium. Nanoparticles with zeta potential values less than

25 mV or greater than -25 mV typically have high degrees of stability and organo-inorgano-MMT

with these properties might be used as dispersant, opacifier, emulsion stabilizer, thickener or binder.

X-ray Diffraction Study Introduction of anionic surfactant NLS onto MMT-CP decreased the basal spacing due to interactions

with the tails of the CP adsorbed. On the other hand MMT-CP-NLS prepared with 0.7 and 1 CEC of

NLS showed that addition of Cu2+

/Zn2+

has minor effect on the basal spacings of the prepared samples.

Modelling of the interactions According to the zeta potential and XRD results, possible mechanisms for adsorption of CP onto

MMT, NLS onto MMT-CP and Cu2+

/Zn2+

onto MMT-CP-NLS may be described as shown on the

Figures 1-3. Interactions among the anionic surfactants and heavy metal ions may be ascribed to the

binding of Cu2+

/Zn2+

with the MMT surface with one charge and to the NLS with the other charge

(Fig. 3).


Figure 1. Mt-CP interactions.

Figure 2. Mt-CP-NLS interactions.

Figure 3. Mt-CP-NLS-Cu/Zn interactions.

REFERENCES

1. C. Yürüdü, S. İşçi, C. Ünlü, O. Atıcı, Ö. Ece and N. Güngör, Synthesis and characterization of

HDA/NaMMT organoclay, Bull. Mater. Sci., Vol. 28, No. 6, October 2005, pp. 623–628.

2. M. Açıkyıldız, A. Gurses, H.H. Yolcu, Synthesis of Super Hydrophobic Clay by Solution

Intercalation Method from Aqueous Dispersions, Proceedings of the 4th International

Congress APMAS2014, April 24-27, 2014, Fethiye, Turkey.

3. G.V. Lowry, R.J. Hill, S. Harper, A.F. Rawle, C.O. Hendren, F. Klaessig, U. Nobbmann,P.

Sayreh and J. Rumble, Guidance to improve the scientific value of zetapotential

measurements in nanoEHS, Environ. Sci., Nano, 2016, 3, 953–965.


PP-05 (Abstract)

Supercritical Carbondioxide Extraction of Bitter Orange (Citrus

aurantium) Plant Grown in Mersin Region: Investigation of Antimicrobial

Effect and Usage in Cosmetic Creams

Fuat ARACI

1*, Derya YÜKSEL

1, Abdulcemal KAŞDAN

1, Büşra AYDIN

1,


1Mersin University, Science and Letters Faculty, Department of Chemistry, 33230, Mersin, Turkey


15030, Burdur, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author:[email protected]

ABSTRACT

Citrus aurantium commonly named bitter or sour orange is cultivated in the Mediterranean countries.

The peel, flower, leaves, and fruit are used as a part of the perfume industry and in the practice of

alternative medicine for a long time. Also, there is a great deal of mainstream food processing and

drug industry interest in them owing to their beneficial properties for antimicrobial and cancer

chemopreventive or chemotherapeutic agents. In addition, it is extensively used for fruit production, as

a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes and as flavouring agent in many

foods [1-3]. Supercritical carbondioxide (scCO2) extraction method is more useful of sample

preparation from natural materials because of its low critical temperature, which prevents the thermal

degradation of volatile components and because it has no residual problem. Essential oil extraction is

usually performed by steam distilation. However although with low operational cost, this technique

uses high temperature, which induces the degradation of heat-sensetive compounds, hydrolysis and

water solubilization of some aromatic compounds. Supercritical carbondioxide extraction (scCO2) is a

technique by which are extracted at lower temperature to avoid potential damage to desired

compounds at high temperatures and is an alternative method used to recovery and separate extracts

from plants. In addition, is have to its safe, non toxic, non-combustible, inexpensive properties. Which

generally provides extract of higher quality when compared to conventional methods [3-5]. In this

study, extract of bitter orange (Citrus aurantium) grown in Mersin region was extracted by

supercritical carbondioxide extraction (scCO2) method. The extracts were also used in cosmetic cream

formulas as protectives. When the antibacterial activities of the extract were examined, it was

determined that the extracts had important effects.

Keywords: Supercritical carbondioxide extraction, Cosmetic creams, Antimicrobial, Bitter orange

(Citrus aurantium).

REFERENCES 1. Boussaada, O., Chemli, R., Seasonal Variation of Essential Oil Composition of Citrus Aurantium L. var.

Amara. Journal of Essential Oil Bearing Plants, 2007, 10(2): 109-120.

2. Caccioni, D.R.L., Guizzardi, M., Biondi, D.M., Renda, A., Ruberto, G., Relationship between volatile

components of citrus fruit essential oils and antimicrobial action on Penicillium digitatum and Penicillium

italicum. International Journal of Food Microbiology, 1998, 43, 73–79.

3. Gyawali, R., Jeon, D.H., Moon, J.Y., Kim, H., Song, Y.W., Hyun, H.B., Jeong, D., Cho, S.K., Chemical

Composition and Antiproliferative Activity of Supercritical Extract of Citrus grandis (L.) Osbeck Fruits from

Korea. Journal of Essential Oil Bearing Plants, 2012, 15(6): 915-925.

4. Dogenski, M., Ferreira, N.J., de Oliveira, A.L., Extraction of Corymbia citriodora essential oil and resin using

near and supercritical carbon dioxide. Journal of Supercritical Fluids, 2016, 115, 54–64.

5. Palazzolo, E., Laudicina, V.A., Germanà, M.A., Current and Potential Use of Citrus Essential Oils. Current

Organic Chemistry, 2013, 17, 3042-3049.



PP-06 (Abstract)

Supercritical Carbondioxide Extraction of Kumquat (Fortunella margarita)

Plant Grown in Mersin Region: Investigation of Antimicrobial Effect and

Usage in Cosmetic Creams

Abdulcemal KAŞDAN

1, Derya YÜKSEL

1, Fuat ARACI

1, Büşra AYDIN

1,


1Mersin University, Science and Letters Faculty, Department of Chemistry, 33230, Mersin, Turkey


15030, Burdur, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author:: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Kumquats (Fortunella margarita) belong to the Citrus genus; their fruits are usually eaten raw as a

whole fruit together with the peel. The peel is sweet and edible with a typical aroma due to the

presence of flavonoids and terpenoids. Kumquats are also an excellent source of nutrients and

phytochemicals, including ascorbic acid, carotenoids, flavonoids and essential oils. They are with

antibacterial, antioxidant, anticancer, and anti-inflammatory properties [1-3]. Extraction by means of

supercritical carbondioxide (scCO2) extraction is a good technique for the obtaining of flavours and

fragrances from plants. Conventional process as such as distillation, solvent extraction, enflourage,

etc., often require additional steps separating the extractant and are usually low selectivity. The of

conventional methods are the disadvantages is that essential oils undergo chemical alteration and the

heatsensitive compounds can easily be degradation and the quality of the essential oil extracts is

degradable. The use of supercritical carbon dioxide extraction (scCO2) to extracts oils or aroma

substances destined to human nutrition and in the pharmaceutical and perfume industries is due to its

safe, non toxic, non-combustible, inexpensive properties [4]. In this study, extract of kumquat

(Fortunella margarita) grown in Mersin region was extracted by supercritical carbondioxide

extraction (scCO2) method. The extracts were also used in cosmetic cream formulas as protectives.

When the antibacterial activities of the extract were examined, it was determined that the extracts had

important effects.

Keywords: Supercritical carbondioxide extraction, Cosmetic creams, Antimicrobial, Kumquat

(Fortunella margarita).

REFERENCES 1. Ibrahim, N.A., El-Hawary, S.S., Mohammed, M.M.D., Farid, M.A., Abdel-Wahed, N.A.M., Ali,

M.A.A., El-Abd, E.A.W., Chemical Composition, Antiviral against avian Influenza (H5N1) Virus and

Antimicrobial activities of the Essential Oils of the Leaves and Fruits of Fortunella margarita, Lour.

Swingle, Growing in Egypt. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 2015, 5(1): 006-012.

2. Hirata, T., Fujii, M., Akita, K., Yanaka, N., Ogawa, K., Kuroyanagi, M., Hongo, D., Identification and

physiological evaluation of the components from Citrus fruits as potential drugs for anti corpulence and

anticancer. Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry, 2009, 17, 25–28.

3. Parashar, S., Sharma, H., Garg, M. Antimicrobial and Antioxidant activities of fruits and vegetable

peels: A review. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 2014, 3(1): 160-164.

4. Marongiu, B., Piras, A., Porcedda, S., Extraction of volatile fractions and carotenoids from orange and

kumquat peel by supercritical carbon dioxide. Journal of Essential Oil Bearing Plants, 2003, 6(2): 86-

96.



PP-07 (Abstract)

Information Systems and Artificial Intelligence in Cosmetics

Hüseyin TURGUT

Burdur Mehmet Akif Ersoy University, Technical Sciences Vocational School, 15100, Burdur, Turkey E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

In general, in all commercial products; The rate of human use in production, sales and marketing and

quality management systems is decreasing day by day. The main factor affecting this decline is the

information system. Information systems come to mind in computer and electronic communication.

Artificial intelligence is found in the last step of the information systems, which causes many human-

specific features to be used in copying and automation systems [1,2]. Automation systems in the

production area support mass production instead of uniform production. The element that loses

individual production: manpower and waste of time are prevented. In the fields of sales and marketing,

data processing and electronic communication technologies are used for the determination and

transportation of the market. Statistical analysis systems used in quality management are mostly

performed with electronic and multi-algorithm structures [2,3]. In this context, IT has managed to take

part in cosmetic sector as well as in all sectors as well as being the only support. Although the decision

maker is human, artificial intelligence, which is the most important information stone at that stage,

will succeed to grow, develop and be used in this field.

Keywords: Cosmetics, Artificial intelligence, Informatics, Decision making.

REFERENCES

1. Koçak, F.F. Kozmetik Ürün Pazarlamada Yeni Bir İmkan Elektronik Ticaret, Ticaret ve

Turizm Eğitim Fakültesi Dergisi, 2008. S.2,

2. Dursun,Y. ve Kocagöz, E. Yapısal Eşitlik Modellemesi ve Regresyon: Karşılaştırmalı Bir

Analiz. Erciyes Üniversitesi İktisadi ve İdari Bilimler Fakültesi Dergisi, 2010, 35(2): 1-17.

3. Özgüven, N., Tüketicilerin Online Alışverişe Karşı Tutumları İle Demografik Özellikleri

Arasındaki İlişkinin Analizi. KMÜ Sosyal ve Ekonomik Araştırmalar Dergisi, 2011, 13(21):

47-54.



PP-08 (Abstract)

Application of the Natural Extracts to Balance the Commensal Bacteria on Skin for

Cosmetic Product Development

Patcharaporn TIPPAYAWAT

1,2, Khaetthareeya SUTTHANUT

2,3

1 School of Medical Technology, Faculty of Associated Medical Sciences, Khon Kaen University,

Khon Kaen, Thailand 40002. e-mail: [email protected] 2 Mekong Health Science Research Institute, Khon Kaen Univerisity, Khon Kaen, Thailand 40002.

3 Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Khon Kaen University, Khon Kaen, Thailand 40002


ABSTRACT

In the era of omics, one important word has been currently raised as “microbiome” especially in the

part of gut and skin. The diversity of microorganisms in human body is discovered and leaded to

concerning microbial ecosystem balance. On our skin, symbiotic microorganisms occupy a wide range

of niche skin and protect against harm by pathogens. Therefore, the balance of commensal bacteria

and harmful organisms need to be controlled. The concerning of healthy skin and external appearance

requires natural and organic skin care products and cosmetics. Here, we were interested to demonstrate

the natural extracts that can balance the skin ecosystem by the mechanism of promoting the

commensal bacteria including Staphylococcus epidermidis to limit or eliminate the pathogenic bacteria

such as S. aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Cutibacterium acnes (P. acnes). The topical plants

such as Myristica fragrans Houtt and Tapioca leaves were used for the extraction and then determined

on skin microbial homeostasis. Interestingly, the optimal dose of topical plant extracts performing as

prebiotic could promote the commensal bacteria producing second metabolic compounds to control

the pathogens via inhibiting pathogenic growth and reducing bacterial virulent factors. Thus, these

results suggested that the natural extracts can be applied in controlling the balance of skin ecosystem

to prevent skin disorders caused by infection. This information is necessary to gain insight into

developing novel skin care products and cosmetics for healthy skin.

Keywords: Skin microbiome, Commensal bacteria, Skin homeostasis, Prebiotic, Acne.



PP-09 (Abstract)

Ferulic Acid: A Cosmeceutical Active Ingredient from Crops

Sukanya LUANG

Department of Biochemistry, Faculty of Medicine, Khon Kaen University, Khon Kaen, Thailand E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid, FA) is an enormously copious and almost

ubiquitous phytochemical phenolic derivative that is found in plant cell walls, especially in the bran of

crops such as rice, wheat, rye, barley, and oats. FA has a wide range of bio-medical effects including

antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiallergic, antithrombotic, antimicrobial, and anticancer. It is a

superior antioxidant in response to free radicals by donating hydrogen from its phenolic hydroxyl

group, inhibiting enzymes that catalyze free radical generation, preventing skin damage from UV

radiation. FA was first used as stabilizer of other antioxidants. The mixture of FA with L-ascorbic acid

and α-tocopherol provides about 4-8 fold protection against solar-simulated radiation damage. In

addition, it can inhibit activity of tyrosinase enzyme in melanogenesis and melanocytic proliferation in

protection of the main skin structures such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts, collagen, and elastin. Based

on its ability, ferulic acid is widely applied in skin care formulations as a delayer of skin photoaging

processes and photoprotective agent.

Keywords: Antioxidant, Tyrosinase inhibitor, Photoprotective agent.



PP-10 (Abstract)

Antibody Development and Antibody Trends in Cosmetic Industry

Chonlatip PIPATTANABOON

Department of Microbiology, Faculty of Medicine, Khon Kaen University, Khon Kaen, Thailand E-mail of corresponding author: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Antibody or immunoglobulin is a major component of humoral immune response in human and

animals containing two fundamental characteristics of specific recognition by the Fab and triggering

several signals for neutralizing or protective activities by the Fc. According to these basic properties

and advanced biotechnology, antibody can be easily constructed, designed, and engineered into many

formats, known as recombinant antibody, for using in medical applications such as diagnostic tools,

drug delivery, prophylactic vaccines, and therapeutic agents against various infectious diseases and

cancers. In the similar concept with the greatest feature of antibodies, several cosmetic companies are

on-going to develop and add the antibodies into aesthetic and skin care products, due to their abilities

that bind and neutralize only target substance without damaging of surrounding cells or normal flora,

which is a key to minimalize the effective ingredients and put the high innovation to preserve good

microorganisms on skin. They also emphasize on anti-aging, anti-acne, anti-inflammation, anti-

dermatitis, anti-dandruff, as well as anti-perspirant activities of the natural and plastic antibodies.

Absolutely, antibody technology can help and bring us to the new trend of aesthetic and skin care

products. Technology for producing sufficient amount of antibodies also important and allow new

product to be competitive in the large-scale industry.

Ostrich egg yolks contain a high concentration of natural AntiBodies. These AntiBodies give

the Ostrich the strongest immune system of any living animal. anti-aging skin treatment

Molecularly imprinted polymers (MIPs), plastic antibodies

AntiBodies were previously only used in medical applications. As production costs were too

high, they were not suitable for use in applications other than advanced medical treatments

The greatest feature of AntiBodies is their ability to bind to only a particular bacteria, microbe

or enzyme, so that they neutralize only the targeted substance without damaging surrounding

cells.

Antibodies for cosmetics bring an absolutely new trend in skin care

Within the framework of our activities, we offer new approaches in biotechnological

applications emphasizing high innovation of designed products and raw materials.

A cosmetic preparation for acned skin. This preparation contains specific antibodies against

the most frequent dermal infectious agents (S. aureus, S. epidermidis, P. acnes).

technology we are able to produce sufficient amount of antibodies for prices that allow new

products to be competitive.

antibodies against yeast pathogens of seborrhoeic dermatitis and dandruff,

Anti-perspirant (aluminum salts) and deodorant – chemicals cause bad smell to kill bacteria na

dprevent sweat disturb skin biota anti-malodourous compound precursors (glutamic acids)

A yolk-derived, anti-hair antibody

A domestic fowl immunized using, as an antigen, whole human hair, e.g., normal human hair

or human hair damaged by permanent waving, dyeing or bleaching, hair particles obtained by

grinding constituent tissues of human hair, the keratin protein extracted from the human hair,

or a hydrolysate of the keratin protein.

Classifications



RPP-11 (Review)

Transdermal Protein Delivery Studies for Atopic Dermatitis Treatment

Derya Karagöz GİRİSGEN

1, Naz Zeynep ATAY GÖK

1

1Bogazici University, Faculty of Arts and Science, Department of Chemistry, Bebek, Istanbul, 34342


ABSTRACT

Human skin is the largest organ of the human body that works as a barrier between the body and the

external environment and protects the body against ultraviolet radiation, microorganisms, allergens,

loss of water and nutrients. The outermost layer of the skin is called the stratum corneum (SC) and it

provides the main barrier. Filaggrin is a protein that has an enormous importance for SC formation.

With the decrease of the water gradient in the outer layers of the skin, filaggrin hydrolysis occurs in

hygroscopic amino acids and their derivatives. They generate natural moisturizing factor (NMF)

which is responsible for maintaining skin hydration and water retention. It has been found that loss-of-

function mutations in FLG, the gene encoding filaggrin, is the main cause of the skin condition called

Atopic Dermatitis (AD). AD, also known as eczema, is a non- contagious inflammatory disease that

makes skin dry, red and itchy. It affects 15-20 % of children and 1-3% of adults and can occur at any

age. Transethosomes are vesicles that are made by combining the idea behind new age liposomal

systems; they contain both ethanol and an edge activator or a permeation enhancer. Research has

shown that the penetration capability of transethosomes through the SC is superior to conventional

liposomes, transfersomes and ethosomes. The aim of this study is to improve a transethosome design

for eczema patients. Obtained vesicles will be characterized in terms of size and size distribution,

encapsulation efficiency and morphology. Filaggrin protein is chosen to treat atopic dermatitis skin

disorder. Protein encapsulation studies will be monitored via fluorescence assay and ultraviolet

spectroscopy. Cell permeation of the resulting vesicles will be studied with Franz diffusion cell.

Folding patterns of filaggrin protein will be investigated also with both experimental and

computational techniques.

Keywords: Atopic Dermatitis, Transethosomes, Transdermal Protein Delivery, Eczema Treatment,

Vesicle Design

INTRODUCTION

Transfersomes are one of the first generations of deformable liposomes, incorporating an edge

activator or a permeation enhancer. Edge activators work by disrupting the vesicle bilayer structure by

relocating to points of less stress when a force is applied to the vesicle (such as going through the

skin), therefore making the vesicle deformable. Permeation enhancers disrupt the skin matrix and

create new pathways through which the vesicles can pass. Another improvement on the liposome is

the ethosomes. Ethosomes have 20 – 45 % ethanol within the bilayer structure and can be considered

as transfersomes with ethanol as the permeation enhancer (1)

. Transethosomes were made by

combining the idea behind both liposomal systems; they contain both ethanol and an edge activator or

a permeation enhancer. Research has shown that the penetration capability of transethosomes through

the SC is superior to conventional liposomes, transfersomes and ethosomes (2).

The aim of this study is

to improve a transethosome design containing ceramide, fatty acids and cholesterol in its lipid



composition, which will be investigated for optimum skin conformance for eczema patients. Obtained

vesicles will be characterized in terms of size and size

distribution, encapsulation efficiency and morphology. Filaggrin protein is chosen to treat atopic

dermatitis skin disorder. Protein encapsulation studies will be monitored via fluorescence assay and

ultraviolet spectroscopy. Cell permeation of the resulting vesicles will be studied with Franz diffusion

cell. Same encapsulation studies also will be done on eczema improving active ingredients like HA,

asiatic and madecassic acids and they will also be subjected to cell permeation studies. Folding pattern

of filaggrin protein will be investigated also with both experimental and computational techniques.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Hydrogenated soy phosphatidylcholine, cholesterol, ceramide and cholestryl sulphate will be used as

lipids of the vesicle. Tween 80 which is also known as polysorbate will be used as permeation

enhancer while oleic acid will be used as edge activator. Filaggrin, hyaluronic acid, asiatic and

madecassic acids will be encapsulated within designed vesicles. Chloroform and methanol will be

used as lipid solvents. Suspension media will be prepared with phosphate buffer solution which is at a

pH of 7.01. Breakdown of vesicles will be achieved via methanol. Cell permeation studies will be

done over Franz diffusion cell with reconstructed human epidermis. Vesicles will be prepared via two

methods and the efficiencies and effectiveness of the methods will be compared. Circular Dichroism

and florescence assay will be used for folding pattern investigations.

REFERENCES

1. Jijie, R., Barras, A., & Szunerits, S. (2017). Nanomaterials for transdermal drug delivery :

beyond the state of the art of liposomal structures. Journal of Materials Chemistry B, 5, 8653–

8675. http://doi.org/10.1039/c7tb02529g

2. Güler, C. (2019). “Study of new age liposomes: Transethosomes”. Master Thesis.

3. Ed Ellis Horwood . (1989). Drug delivery to the skin. In: Physiological Pharmaceutics,

Biological Barriers to drug absorption (1st ed.).

4. Elias, P. M. (1981). Epidermal Lipids, Membranes, and Keratinization. International Journal

of Dermatology, 20(1), 1–19. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-4362.1981.tb05278.x

5. Brown, S. J., & Mclean, W. I. (2012). One Remarkable Molecule: Filaggrin. Journal of

Investigative Dermatology, 132(3), 751–762. doi: 10.1038/jid.2011.393

6. Irvine, A. D. and McLean, W. H. I. (2006). Breaking the (un)sound barrier: filaggrin is a

major gene for atopic dermatitis. J. Invest. Dermatol. 126, 1200-1202.

7. Sandilands, A., Sutherland, C., Irvine, A. D., & Mclean, W. H. I. (2009). Filaggrin in the

frontline: role in skin barrier function and disease. Journal of Cell Science, 122(9), 1285–

1294. doi: 10.1242/jcs.033969


FPP-12 (FullText)

Knowledge Levels of Graphic Symbols On Cosmetic Packaging By

Different Target Audience

Mutluhan AKYÜZ

1, Hami Onur BİNGÖL

2

1Kütahya Dumlupınar University, Institute of Social Sciences, Department of Graphic Design, 43100,

Kütahya, Turkey 2 Kütahya Dumlupınar University, Faculty of Fine Arts, Department of Cartoon / Animation, 43100,

Kütahya, Turkey


ABSTRACT

The graphic symbols on the packaging are intended to protect and inform the consumer. Therefore, it

is very important that they are understood correctly by the consumer. Especially in the case of

cosmetic products for human health it is gaining more importance in this case. In this research, it is

aimed to measure the relationship between the awareness levels of the meanings of the 26 symbols

commonly used on cosmetic packaging and the levels of awareness by different consumers. Survey

technique was used as a measurement tool. The survey involved 2156 people living in Turkey, stated

that 2085 people use cosmetic products. As a result of the study, striking results were obtained

regarding the level of knowing the meaning of the symbols. It was concluded that the symbols were

not generally known sufficiently. In addition, it is observed that the meaning of some symbols is

highly misunderstood. Knowlegde levels of participants for the meaning of symbols differ according

to age, gender, education, working status and monthly income. While women are more successful in

knowing the meaning of the symbols than men, the average age of knowledge level is between 30-40.

Between the consumers who have high and low ethical consumer awareness, significant differences

were found in the point of knowing the meaning of symbols. Some meaningful differences have been

reached between the knowledge levels of consumers who care about the suitability of product

packaging in terms of recycling and do not care enough.

Keywords: Packaging, Cosmetic, Cosmetic Product Packaging, Cosmetic Symbol, Graphic Symbols,

Recognition Levels of Symbols, Consumer, Ethical Consumption

INTRODUCTION

In order to protect and inform the consumer, there are graphic symbols on the packagings of the

products. For this reason, it is very important to be properly understood by the consumer. But if the

subject is the cosmetic products for human health, particularly graphic symbols becomes more and

more important. The aim of this study is to measure the level of knowledge of graphic symbols in

cosmetic packaging and to compare the knowledge levels of different consumer groups. Since there

are no comprehensive studies in the literature, the importance of the research increases.


The research model is a descriptive research method. In the research, questionnaire technique was

used as data collection method. Sample of the research consists of 2085 consumers aged 12 and over,

living in Turkey, stating that they are using cosmetic products by participating in the survey.



Survey

The questionnaire has been prepared by taking expert opinions of 1 academician from field of

measurement and evaluation and 6 academicians who teach in the field of graphics. A pilot study of 15

people was conducted before the survey was published.

The survey consists of 3 sections:

1- Questions aimed at demographic information

2- Questions about the use of cosmetic products

3- Questions about measuring the awareness of the meaning of symbols

The survey includes 26 symbols that provide information on the environment and recycling, product

use, brand image and product content.

In the last section, there are 4 answers to the questions about measuring information. While 1 of them

is the correct answer, 2 of them is the wrong answer and 1 is the "I don't know" answer. At the

beginning of the questionnaire, the participant was reminded to select the "I don't know" option for

symbols he / she is not sure about.

For statistical analysis of data, SPSS (Statiscal Package for Social Sciences) software was used.The

level of knowing the meaning of the symbols was measured with 20 items and each correct answer

given by the participant was evaluated as 5 points.Therefore, the knowledge levels vary between 0 and

100 values. Knowledge levels of the participants were compared with t test, Kruskal Wallis test and

one way analysis of variance.


Findings regarding the demographic characteristics of the participants are given in the tables below.

Table 1. Findings on Demographic Characteristics

Groups Number %

Gender Male 243 11,3%

Female 1913 88,7%

Level of Education

Primary 5 ,2%

Bachelor 1120 51,9%

Graduate 291 13,5%

High school 479 22,2%

Secondary 36 1,7%

Associate 214 9,9%

Only literate 11 ,5%

Age

18 and under 94 ,5%

19-29 1287 59,7%

30-40 621 28,8%

41 and over 154 7,1%

Are you

working?

Yes 990 45,9%

No 1166 54,1%


Table 2. Cosmetic Product Usage Information

Groups Number %

Do you use cosmetics? Yes 2085 96,7%

No 71 3,3%

How often do you use

cosmetics?

Not use cosmetics 71 3,3%

Once in a month 86 4,0%

Several times a week 489 22,7%

Everyday 1402 65,0%

Rarely 108 5,0%

Please tick the source

from which you get

the most information

about cosmetic

products.


Family, friends etc. 310 14,4%

Scientific studies (thesis, article etc.) 84 3,9%

Cosmetic experts (doctors, pharmacists, etc.) 233 10,8%

Cosmetic brands 79 3,7%

Where to sell cosmetics (shops, online shopping sites

etc.) 240 11,1%

Cosmetic associations, non-governmental

organizations 7 ,3%

Social media (Youtube, Instagram, Facebook,

Pinterest etc.) 1063 49,3%

TV or radio (programs, ads etc.) 18 ,8%

Written publications (newspapers, magazines, etc.) 51 2,4%

Are you reviewing

the package before

buying cosmetics?


Yes 1872 86,8%

No 213 9,9%

In order to determine consumption behavior, the participant was asked about the criteria he / she

considered before purchasing cosmetic products. Participants were asked to answer this question by

selecting only 3 options. The results are in the Table below.


Table 3. Most Important Criteria Before You Buy Cosmetics

The Three Most Important Criteria

Before Buying A Cosmetic Product Number %

Natural or organic content of the product No 458 22,0%

Yes 1627 78,0%

Brand of product No 1011 48,5%

Yes 1074 51,5%

Sales price of the product No 313 15,0%

Yes 1772 85,0%

Product packaging is suitable for recycling No 1934 92,8%

Yes 151 7,2%

Product not tested on animals No 1258 60,3%

Yes 827 39,7%

Stylish or attractive packaging No 1995 95,7%

Yes 90 4,3%

Promotional ads about the product No 1886 90,5%

Yes 199 9,5%

Product packaging provides convenience when using the

product

No 1741 83,5%

Yes 344 16,5%

The product is preferred by popular people No 1923 92,2%

Yes 162 7,8%

According to the survey data, some significant conclusions about the recognition of symbols have

been reached.

Table 4. The Most Known (The First Three Symbols)

Symbol Name Number %

Flammable 1779 82,5

V-Label Vegan 1638 76

Period-after opening (PAO) 1614 74,9


Table 5. The Least Known (The First Three Symbols)


Recycled Material 174 8,1

Paper 200 9,3

ÇEVKO Green Dot 224 10,4

Table 6. Symbols Marked "Don't know" in Response to Meaning


Recycled Material 1400 64,9

Best Before End Of 1018 47,2

The Estimated – e mark 971 45

Paper 970 45

Glass 888 41,2

Table 7. Meaning of False Known Symbols


ÇEVKO Green Dot 1587 73,6

Trademark 1021 47,3

Compostable 1005 46,6

In general, it is concluded that the meaning of the symbols is not sufficiently known. In addition, it is

observed that the meaning of some symbol is highly misunderstood. Significant differences were

found between the knowledge levels of some participant groups.


- According to consumption criteria; the group with higher ethical consumption behavior is

more successful than the group with low ethical consumption behavior.

- People graduated from master degree are the most successful group according to education

level criteria.

- According to the status/profession criteria, Professional Group (Lawyer, doctor, engineer, etc.)

is the most successful.

- According to the age criteria, between 30-40 age group is the most successful.

- Women are more successful than men.

CONCLUSION

For the ‘compostable’ symbol, the option “The product in the packaging is vegetative" is most often

marked. High misidentification of the meaning of this symbol; it is thought that it will mislead

consumers who want to buy natural cosmetics and cause serious health problems.

31.9% of the participants think that the ‘TM’ symbol, which is a trademark, means “Made in Turkey

(‘Türk Malı’ in Turkish). It is thought that this symbol, which gives information about brand image,

can cause quite complicated situations in some cases especially related to the national economy where

domestic goods products are expected to be supported.

The meaning of the Green Dot symbol was misknown by 73.6% of the participants. 36.9% (796

people) of the participants think that the packaging were made of recycled material; 36.7% (791

people) of the participants think that the packaging is made from recycled material. Nowadays, where

recycling is highly important, knowing this symbol incorrectly will lead to very sad results.

It is necessary to increase the knowledge of the meaning of symbols in cosmetic packaging. To

achieve this:

- Education can be given in schools.

- Information can be provided through the most used sources (social media-cosmetics specialist-

cosmetic product sales place / site).

- Visual designs of symbols can be re-evaluated.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This is a part of Master Thesis. Thanks to the KÜAD (Kozmetik Üreticileri ve Araştırmacıları

Derneği) for support.


FPP-13 (FullText)

Study of New Age Liposomes: Transethosomes

Canan GÜLER

1, Naz Zeynep Atay GÖK

1

1Bogazici University, Faculty of Arts and Sciences, Department of Chemistry, 34342, İstanbul, Turkey


ABSTRACT

Liposomes are vesicles formed by the self-arrangement of amphiphilic molecules into bilayer form,

enclosing an aqueous core. The fact that these vesicles resemble the skin structure makes them ideal

carriers for active drug or cosmetic ingredients into the skin. In order to effectively deliver ingredients

under the skin, deformable vesicles such as ethosomes or transfersomes are designed. A new form of

deformable vesicles is the transethosomes. These vesicles can deform when under stress without

breaking and release their content once they are under the skin. Transethosomes are vesicles

containing edge activators or permeation enhancers and ethanol. In this study, transethosomes

containing different edge activators/permeation enhancers were investigated and compared. Ethanol

and oleic acid were incorporated within the lipid bilayer as permeation enhancers and polysorbate

(Tween®80) was added separately as an edge activator. Effects of different preparation methods were

reported in terms of size, size distribution, surface charge and morphology. Also effects of different

concentrations of edge activator/permeation enhancer were investigated. Considering their wide

biochemical and pharmacological benefits and the fact that transethosomes can better encapsulate

lipophilic molecules, two essential oils, geraniol and linalool were encapsulated. The cold method with

minimum amount of ingredients was found to deliver the best vesicles.

Keywords: Liposome, Transethosome, Encapsulation

INTRODUCTION

The skin protects us in many ways, including by keeping our bodies intact and acting as a barrier

between us and our environments. It consists of two main parts: the epidermis (outermost layer) and

the dermis underneath. The stratum corneum (SC) is a good protective barrier. When applying drug or

cosmetic materials dermally, the active ingredients do not cross the SC barrier effectively. In order to

achieve a therapeutic dose of active drug ingredients, it is necessary that the ingredients pass through

the skin layers. [1] Dose increase may facilitate a more effective treatment or application; however, it

usually causes or enhances side effects as well [2]. Some advantages to dermal delivery of active

ingredients include sustained release, avoiding blood concentration fluctuations, standardization and

bypassing the first-pass metabolism [3-5]. In order to overcome the SC barrier and deliver active

ingredients through the skin, vesicles are utilized that are composed of lipids that are similar to the

skin structure. Transethosomes were developed by Song et al. in 2012 [6]. They contain ethanol as

well as an edge activator or a penetration enhancer. Containing both ingredients, transethosomes can

“squeeze” through the SC layer and release their contents once they are inside. It has been shown that

transethosomes show the highest deformability among other vesicle types, while maintaining their

integrity (e.g. not leaking their contents) [6,7] (Figures 1,2).



Figure 1. Liposome, Transfersome and ethosome structures [2].

Figure 2. Mechanism of vesicle passage through the SC [2].


When following the cold method, phosphatidylcholine (PC) and either min or max Tween® 80 or oleic

acid were dissolved in a water bath while mixing on a magnetic stirrer. After the PC and Tween® 80 or

oleic acid was dissolved, purified water was added drop-wise to the solution. After all the water was

added, the solution was stirred further. When following the thin-film evaporation method, PC and

either min or max Tween® 80 or oleic acid was dissolved in a mixture of chloroform:methanol in a

water bath on a magnetic stirrer. Then the organic solvent mixture was evaporated via vacuum. The so

obtained lipid thin-film was hydrated with a mixture of phosphate buffered saline/ethanol. All

obtained vesicles were downsized either by sonication or extrusion. In order to investigate effects of

both downsizing methods, both were performed. In order to assess the loading capability of the

vesicles, empty and loaded transethosomes were prepared; two essential oils, linalool and geraniol

were encapsulated.


Effects of Preparation Methods

Size and homogeneity of the obtained vesicles are compared in Table 1 according to their respective

methods. Due to their smaller sizes, vesicles obtained with the cold method should show better skin

penetration. However, the polydispersity index (PDI) of both methods were more or less similar and in

the acceptable range. When comparing loaded transethosomes, it can be seen that the vesicles

encapsulating linalool are smaller than the ones encapsulating geraniol, regardless of the choice of

permeation enhancer/edge activator. In the case of transethosomes prepared with Tween®80

encapsulating linalool, the vesicles are unusually large. This may be due to aggregation of vesicles.

The loaded transethosomes prepared by the thin-film hydration method, show higher PDI values than

those prepared with the cold method. This may be due to lipid film residues, obtained in the hydration

step, which is absent for the cold method. This can be amended by a purification step. The STEM

images of both methods showed slightly deformed generally spherical vesicles, which is expected of


deformable vesicles. When the images of the vesicles are observed, as it can be seen in Figures 3 and

4, the vesicles of each method look consistent. When comparing both methods in their ease of

handling, cold method requires less time and resources than the thin-film hydration method; which

also indicates better scale up for mass production.

Table. 1 Comparison of different preparation methods

Samples

Mean effective diameter (nm) (PDI)

Cold Method Thin-film Hydration Method

Empty transethosomes with

min Oleic acid 125.7 (0.197) 299.8 (0.177)


max Oleic acid 171.8 (0.264) 247.9 (0.139)


min Tween®80 59.9 (0.183) 186.6 (0.154)


max Tween®80 57.4 (0.186) 261.4 (0.169)

Linalool loaded

transethosomes with Oleic

acid

126 (0.148) 152.3* (0.298)

Linalool loaded

transethosomes with

Tween®80

69.9 (0.182) 1411.3* (0.296)

Geraniol loaded

transethosomes with Oleic

acid

753.7* (0.215) 275.9* (0.301)

Geraniol loaded

transethosomes with

Tween®80

75.3 (0.188) 68.1* (0.041)

*Downsized via sonication


Figure 3. Empty transethosomes with min oleic acid via cold method.

Figure 4. Empty transethosomes with min Tween

®80 via cold method.

Effects of Permeation Enhancer and Edge Activator Concentrations

For the cold method, as can be seen in Table 2, the vesicle sizes with oleic acid are significantly bigger

than those with Tween®80. However, the PDIs are compliant and similar. Since generally, smaller

vesicles show better permeation through the skin, here the Tween® 80 vesicles are smaller, therefore

better. As for concentrations of the permeation enhancer and the edge activator (Table 3), for the cold

method, that increasing the oleic acid concentration lead to larger vesicles whereas increasing the

Tween®80 concentration did not show significant changes. For the thin-film hydration method,

increasing the oleic acid concentration lead to smaller vesicles, whereas an increased Tween®80

concentration resulted in larger vesicles. Therefore minimum concentrations of permeation enhancer

and the edge activator is the optimal solution.


Table. 2 Size (nm) and PDI of empty transethosomes for comparison of permeation enhancer, edge

activator and their concentrations.

Method

Oleic acid Tween®80

Min(nm)

(PDI)

Max(nm)

(PDI)

Min(nm)

(PDI)

Max(nm)

(PDI)

Cold Method 125.7

(0.197) 171.8 (0.264) 59.9 (0.183) 57.4 (0.186)

Thin-film Hydration Method 299.8

(0.177) 247.9 (0.139) 186.6 (0.154)

261.4

(0.169)

Table. 3 Size and PDI of loaded transethosomes for comparison of permeation enhancer and edge

activator (nm) (PDI).

Method

Oleic acid (min) Tween®80 (min)

Linalool(nm)

(PDI)

Geraniol(nm

) (PDI)

Linalool(nm)

(PDI)

Geraniol(nm)

(PDI)

Cold Method 126 (0.148) 753.7

(0.215) 69.9 (0.182) 75.3 (0.188)

Thin-film Hydration

Method 152.3 (0.298)

275.9

(0.301) 1411.3 (0.296) 68.1 (0.041)

Empty vs Loaded Transethosomes

As it can be seen in Table 4, when all empty and loaded vesicles prepared via the cold method were

compared, the sizes and PDI values of empty vesicles and linalool loaded vesicles were almost

identical, with one exception. The vesicles with Tween®80 and geraniol resulted in very small

vesicles. It can be seen that geraniol loading is much more favorable with Tween®80.

Table 4 Size (nm) and PDI of empty and loaded transethosomes.

Method

Empty(nm) (PDI) Linalool loaded(nm)

(PDI)

Geraniol loaded(nm)

(PDI)

Oleic acid Tween

®80

Oleic

acid

Tween®8

0

Oleic

acid

Tween®8

0

Cold Method 125.7

(0.197)

59.9

(0.183)

126

(0.148)

69.9

(0.182)

753.7

(0.215)

75.3

(0.188)

Thin-film

Hydration Method

299.8

(0.177)

186.6

(0.154)

152.3

(0.298)

1411.3

(0.296)

275.9

(0.301)

68.1

(0.041)

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This is a part of Canan Güler’s Master’s Thesis. Thanks to Bogazici Research Projects (BAP-14503

MSc Project Scholarship) for support.


REFERENCES

1. Waghule, T. et al. (2019) ‘Microneedles: A smart approach and increasing potential for

transdermal drug delivery system’, Biomedicine and Pharmacotherapy. Elsevier,

109(September 2018), pp. 1249–1258. doi: 10.1016/j.biopha.2018.10.078.

2. Sala, M. et al. (2018) ‘Lipid nanocarriers as skin drug delivery systems: Properties,

mechanisms of skin interactions and medical applications’, International Journal of

Pharmaceutics. Elsevier, 535(1–2), pp. 1–17. doi: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2017.10.046.

3. Darwhekar, G. et al. (2012) ‘Elastic liposomes for delivery of neomycin sulphate in

deepskininfection’,asianjps.syphu.edu.cn.http://asianjps.syphu.edu.cn/CN/article/downloadArt

icleFile.do?attachType=PDF&id=219, accessed in April 2019.

4. Almandil, N. B. (2016) ‘Healthcare professionals’ awareness and knowledge of adverse drug

reactions and pharmacovigilance’, Saudi Medical Journal, 37(3), pp. 332–333.

5. Chathoth, S. et al. (2016) ‘Elevated Fibroblast Growth Factor 23 Concentration: Prediction of

Mortality among Chronic Kidney Disease Patients’, Cardiorenal Medicine. Karger Publishers,

6(1), pp. 73–82. doi: 10.1159/000440984.

6. Song, C. K. et al. (2012) ‘A novel vesicular carrier, transethosome, for enhanced skin delivery

of voriconazole: Characterization and in vitro/in vivo evaluation’, Colloids and Surfaces B:

Biointerfaces. Elsevier B.V., 92, pp. 299–304. doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2011.12.004

7. Ascenso, A. et al. (2015) ‘Development, characterization, and skin delivery studies of related

ultradeformable vesicles: transfersomes, ethosomes, and transethosomes’, International

Journal of Nanomedicine, p. 5837. doi: 10.2147/IJN.S86186.


FPP-14 (FullText)

Preparation and Characterization of Nanoemulsion of Marigold Extract

Gülgün Yener, Ümit Gönüllü, Ebru Altuntaş, Ashkan Kashefi

Istanbul University, Faculty of Pharmacy, 34104, Istanbul, Turkey


ABSTRACT

Various plants represent a rich source of biologically active compounds with a recognized potential for

the development of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Calendula flower (Calendula officinalis) (CF) has

been used in herbal medicine because of its anti-inflammatory activity. CF and C. officinalis extracts

(CFE) are used as skin conditioning agents in cosmetics. Currently, the European Medicines Agency

(EMEA) has approved its lipophilic and aqueous alcoholic extracts as traditional medicinal products

for the treatment of minor inflammation of the skin and as an aid in the healing of minor wounds. The

applications of nanotechnology have been proposed to improve stability of these bioactive compounds

from plants. The aim of this study was to investigate the use of the CFE as an active agent for

cosmetics. For this purpose, CFE (marigold extract) was incorporated into a nanoemulsion system by

using ultrasonication method and the characterization studies were performed. Droplet size and

polydisperity index (PDI) of the optimized nanoemulsion were analyzed and found to be 118.1 nm

with a PDI of 0.035. Zeta potential of the optimized nanosuspension containing 1% (w/w) Marigold

extract was found to be -21.4 mV. It was concluded that a novel cosmetic delivery system was

developed for marigold extract in order to be used in cosmetics.

Keywords: Marigold extract, Calendula officinalis, Nanoemulsion

INTRODUCTION

Nowadays, natural products have become promising to be used in cosmetics industry because of their

bioactive compounds such as phenolic compounds, terpenoids, carotenoids, flavonoid, vitamin C and

tocopherols. These bioactive compounds have antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory properties

as well as being generally nontoxic for humans and animals which make them suitable candidates to

be used in food, medicine or cosmetic products [1].

It has been known that the effectiveness of herbal extracts depends on the appropriate delivery of

therapeutically active compounds [2].CF also known as Garden Marigold, Marigold and Pot Marigold,

is part of the botanical family of Asteraceae [3] (Figure 1). It is used topically as a natural anti-

inflammatory medicine and for poorly healing wounds and leg ulcers. Other topical uses include

treatment of burns and scalds, bruises, boils, and rashes [4]. Taking into consideration the information

given above, in this study an attempt was made to prepare an innovative stable cosmetic delivery

system for calendula officinalis extract to be used due to its anti-inflammatory effect for cosmetic

purposes.



Figure 1. The appearance of Marigold (Calendula officinalis) flower.


Preparation of Nanoemulsion

Nanoemulsion was prepared by using ultrasonication method with or without premixing with a

mechanic homogenizer at 8100 rpm for 5 min. A simple bench-top ultrasonic device (Sonics VCX

750, Sonics & Materials, Newtown, Connecticut, USA) consisted of an electrical generator, a

transducer and a titanium sonotrode (horn). The mechanical ultrasonic vibrations at the sonotrode was

fixed with the amplitude of 40%. Sonication process was carried out for 30 min, in which each cycle

consisted of 30 s pulses on and 30 s pulses off. The temperature of nanosuspensions was maintained

around 5°C during sonication.

Droplet Size Analysis

Mean droplet size and size distribution of nanoemulsions were determined by photon correlation

spectroscopy by using a Malvern Zetasizer Nano ZS (Malvern Instruments, UK). Light scattering was

monitored at room temperature (25°C) at a scattering angle of 90°. The samples of nanoemulsions

were suitably diluted with distilled water (1:100 v/v). Samples were considered polydisperse when the

PDI was higher than 0.2.

Zeta Potential Measurement

Zeta Potential is measured by Malvern Zetasizer Nano ZS (Malvern Instruments, UK). For measuring

zeta potential, nanoemulsion is diluted with distilled water (1:100 v/v) and its value is estimated from

the electrophoretic mobility of oil droplets.

Rheological Characteristics

The viscosity of nanoemulsions was determined without any dilution using Brookfield cone and plate

viscometer (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Inc., Middleboro, MA) at 25 ± 0.5°C. The viscosity

(cP) at different shear rates was also determined. The graphs were plotted between viscosity versus

rate of shear to evaluate rheological characteristics of nanoemulsions.


Nanoemulsions of CF extract were prepared successfully by ultrasonic homogenization method with

or without premixing. The nanoemulsion was formulated using low level surfactant (Tween 20) and

cosurfactant (Transcutol P) mixture that is totally 25% (w/w) of the total emulsion content. By using

premixing step before ultrasonication step provided a decrease in the droplet size, PDI and zeta

potential

(Table 1). With respect to this study, ultrasonic emulsification yields nanoemulsion with minimized

droplet diameter with low polydispersity index. The polydispersity is a measure of the homogenity and

stability of the droplet size in the emulsion. This small droplet size obtained by the nanoemulsion

technique has larger surface area that allows rapid penetration of active components [5]. Zeta potential


is an indication of the repulsive forces between emulsion oil droplets; it thus characterises

coalescence/flocculation capacity of emulsions and reflects their stability. Large zeta potential values

(positive or negative) indicate difficulty of coalescence of droplets and therefore high emulsion

stability. For the zeta potential, high negative values were observed in this study. Viscosity of all

nanoemulsions was very low, which is one of the characteristics of the true nanoemulsions [6]. There

was no significant change in the viscosity of the nanoemulsions when rate of shear was increased

(Figure 2) which indicated Newtonian behavior of the nanoemulsions. These results showed that the

optimized nanoemulsion containing CFE with proper physicochemical characteristics was found to be

suitable for cosmetic applications.

Table 1. Droplet size, PDI and zeta potential values of the nanoemulsions.

Sample Name Particle size

(nm)

PDI Zeta

potential

(mV)

Nanoemulsion with

premixing

118.1 0.035 -21.4

Nanoemulsion

without premixing

132.7 0.061 -19.6

Figure 2. Viscosity graph of the optimized formulation.

CONCLUSION

The results obtained from this study contribute to a better application of calendula officinalis extract in

nanoemulsion form with promising improved stability and therefore for suitable cosmetic applications.

REFERENCES

1. Limthin, D., phromyothin, D. Improving Stability of Nanoemulsion Containing Centella

asiatica, Lycopersicon Esculentum Mil. And Moringa oleifera Lam. Extract. Materialstoday.

2017.

2. Kozlowska, J., Stachowiak, N., Prus, W. Stability studies of collagen-based microspheres with

Calendula officinalis flower extract. Polymer Degradation and Stability. 2019.

3. M. Hamburge, S.Adler, D. Baumann, A. Forg , B. Weinreich. Prepartive purification of the

major anti-inflammatory triterpenoid esters from Marigold (Calendula officinali). Fitoterapia.

2003.


4. T.A. RE, D.mooney, E.antignac, E.dufour, I. Bark, V.srinivasan, G. Nohynek. Application of

the threshold of toxicological concern approach for the safety evaluation of calendula flower

(calendula officinalis) petals and extracts used in cosmetic and personal care products. Food

and chemical Toxicology. 2009.

5. Tadros, T., Izquierdo, R., Esquena, J. C. Solans, Formation and stability of nanoemulsions,

Adv. Colloid Interface Sci., 2004, 108–109: 303–318.

6. Shakeel, F., Ramadan, W., Ahmed, M. A. Investigation of true nanoemulsions for transdermal

potential of indomethacin: characterization, rheological characteristics, and ex vivo skin

permeation studies. Journal of drug targeting, 2009, 17(6): 435-441.


SPONSORS


See you in

4th

International Cosmetic Congress

Antalya, TURKEY

2020

www.kozmetikkongresi.com

http://www.kozmetikkongresi.com/


Documents

2 | · 978-XXX-XXX-XXX-X BARKOD GELECEK Responsibilities about the published abstracts are the property of their respective authors. 4 | MESSAGE BY