194448081 Skaven Watchtower

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    Step 1The beveled edge on this column starts 0+ up the side of the foam.

    Download this template and print it out. Transfer it to a piece of rigid

    cardboard and cut it out. 7end the cardboard template e(actly in half.

    Scoring 2a techniue that uses a knife blade to slice a gentle line across a

     piece of cardboard without actually cutting the cardboard into two

    separate pieces4 will make the cardboard template much easier to bend.

    Step 2 8lace the cardboard template over the corner of the assembled columnwith the pointed end facing the base of the column. Trace its outline ontothe foam with a felt-tipped pen or a pencil. ontinue the tracing of the

    template up the entire column and repeat the process on all four sides.

    STAGE : Cuttin# out the Be$ele% E%#es

    Step 19nce all of the tracing has been finished, start cutting out the beveled

    edges from the column. Take the retractable bo( cutter again and cut out

    the beveled points 2near the base of the column4 by following the guide

    lines. This step will help you avoid slipping and cutting too far in Step 3.

    Step 2  Now that the points are done, carve out the beveled edges from the toptowards the pointed areas you :ust removed. ut all the way down to the

    guide lines that you made with the cardboard template. To keep the linestraight, make sure to cut inside of the guides rather than outside.

    8atience and a steady hand win the day% Don#t cut too uickly or you may

    damage the foam.

    Step 9nce you have carved out the beveled edges, use a fine piece of

    sandpaper to smooth out any nicks or rough spots.

    STAGE !: C"eatin# the Column Base

    Note:s stated above in The Basic Column, sanding the foam will reduce the

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    width of the column. Take measurements and keep these in mind when

    you download the template and follow the steps below.

    Step 1;ou#re going to construct the base of the column out of foamcore so it

    stands 3+ high against the side of the column. Download this template,

     print it out, and transfer it to a piece of foamcore by pushing small holes

    through the printed template and into the foamcore beneath it with athumbtack.

    Step 2 onnect the punctures on the foamcore with a pen or pencil and cut therectangles free with a sharp

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    Step (9nce you have cut both of the side panels for the column base, you can

    assemble the base. With one side panel in hand, fill both of the cuts with

    wood glue and press both together. "epeat this process for the other

    corner of the column. 9nce the sides with the lips are on, glue on the

    other two panels. ?inally, spread glue on the inside of the base and slidethe foam column into the base. lean up any e(tra glue that leaks out. @et

    the whole column base dry before moving on to the ne(t stage.

    STAGE ': The Column Base )eco"ation

    Step 1;ou will make the decoration on the base of the column out of foamcore

    as well. Download this template, print it out, and transfer it to a piece of

    foamcore by pushing small holes through the printed template and into

    the foamcore beneath it with a thumbtack.

    Step 2 onnect the resulting punctures on the foamcore with a pen or pencil andcut all the shapes free with a sharp

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    Step 1 Starting on one side of the top of the column, measure down A+ and makea mark on this side. Now, directly opposite of this mark, make another

    mark, but make it /+down instead of A+. 9nce both marks are on the

    foam, connect these lines with two more guides on the remaining sides.

    This line is your guide to gauge the cut you need to make to separate the

    topmost section from the rest of the piece.

     Now, measure down 6+ from the top and make another guide. This guide

    will help you make the slightly diagonal cut where the column has broken but not separated 2i.e., a simple fracture4. ;our cut will separate the

    sections, but you will glue them back together to get the look of a

    fracture.

    Step 2Time to start cutting% Take the retractable bo( cutter and cut along the

    topmost guide and separate this chunk of foam from the rest of the

    column. ?ollow the guides on the second mark with the bo( cutter and cut

    the column down again, though the cut should be at a slight diagonal to

    the guide.

    Step  Now there are three sections to deal with. ;ou can damage the +top+section as you see fit. arve off large chunks of foam to get a :agged

    appearance. lso, use the point of the knife 2please be careful, wear eye

     protection%4 to pop and gouge large pieces out of the section#s central

    mass. 8ut the top section aside for now B it will become part of the base

    later.

    't#s a little trickier to get the remaining two sections to look like they have

    fractured in a natural fashion. >se the techniues above to create a

    shattered appearance, but each half should resemble the other enough so

    they look like parts of the same column. Don#t stress out too much,

    though. The eons could have worn away the similarities a little bit.

    1ouge up the corners and edges where these two piece meet :ust like

     before, but DO NOT detail the flat inside areas of the foam. These areas

    must be left smooth so that the two sections can be reassembled.

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    Step !pply white glue to the flat top of the shattered column.

    Step ' 1lue both sections of the column together. !owever, the sections should be slightly askew so they look like they are on either side of a fracture.

    Step ( 9nce everything has dried completely, ding up the rest of the columnwith small cracks and gouges by using a sharp se either

    wood glue or a hot glue gun to assemble the parts. Now, glue the fallen

    section to the base in a manner that suits you.

    Step 2With a bit of foam and the bo( cutter, create a few small dunes or

    rounded +hills.+ 1lue these about the &asonite and up against the column2trim the dunes so they fit4.

    Step With a chunk of e(tra foam in hand, cut off small chunks to create rubble

    and shards of stone. ;ou can make them of varying si$es. 1lue these

    chunks down to the base as well. 'f you like, you can add pieces of pine

     bark to resemble uncarved stone.

    Step !lthough this step does not actually have much to do with detailing the

     base, it is still a good idea fill in any gaps in the foam with uick-drying

    spackling at this stage. >se a scrap piece of plasticard to apply thespackling.

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    The Ric+et, Sca--ol%in#

    This ne(t group of steps will help you transform your dilapidated Dwarf column into

    a bit of Skaven scenery. ;ou#ll have to use your best :udgment in this phase of

    construction B there is no template for the scaffolding, but ' did include measurementswhen we could. !owever, if you feel lost, look to the color section of Wa"hamme"

    A"mies: S+a$en 2p. C/4 or the images in this article for inspiration and guidance.

    STAGE .: Gettin# Sta"te%

    Step 1/0ictu"e% ao$e le-t With an

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    Step 1Start with the frame of the scaffolding. reate two +rings+ using the eight

     pieces of C+ long balsa wood. 9n four of the eight, cut an @-shaped

    groove into each end. The resulting tab can now be laid on top of one of

    the uncut pieces of balsa wood. Test the fit for each piece. 9nce you are

    satisfied, glue all of the pieces together with wood or white glue and setthe two rings aside to dry.

    Step 2 9nce everything has dried thoroughly, glue each of the eight A /5A+ pieces at right angles to the two assembled +rings.+ ;ou should put four

    on the bottom and four in the middle with the top ring on top, :ust like the

    steel frame on a building.

    Step 1lue the entire scaffolding to the &asonite base so it encircles the

    column. 'f the legs of the scaffolding are uneven or rest on top of any

    foam dunes or rocks, cut the balsa wood to fit or measure and gouge out

    suares of foam so that the legs can sit on the base.

    Step !

    ?inally, add all sorts of random beams and braces to the scaffolding andcolumn 2balsa wood works great for wood braces and card with rivets

    would make great rusted metal braces4. 'n short, use your best :udgment

    and imagination. 7elow, you#ll see some e(amples of different types of

     braces and the two materials ' used.

    Step 'Dip string or twine into watered-down wood or white glue and wrap it

    around a few :oints to create a bundled knot. 8aint on more glue once the

    string has started to dry to create a rock-hard :oin.

    Step (reate rivets by slicing up a small plastic rod 2suare or circular is up to

    you4. 1lue these rivets on with superglue so they look as though long

    metal spikes have been driven into the wood to hold it together.

    Step *dd thin pieces of balsa wood or popsicle sticks to create planks and

    walkways for your models. lso, assemble ladders from spare balsa wood

    and glue them in place now.

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    STAGE 14: Buil%in# The Bell

    The body of the bell was

    created using the

    following materials=

    ) A0-mm tin bell from a

    craft store

    ) emptied and cleaned

    yogurt cup

    8lasticard

    ) Screaming 7ell !older

     bit

    Sc"eamin# Bell Hol%e"

    424(4'34 

    Step 1To allow the metal bell to lie flat on the bottom of the yogurt cup, you

    will need to cut out a circular piece of plasticard with a diameter

    measuring 3+ 2or whatever will fit your yogurt cup4. Trace out the shape

    on a sheet of plasticard with a pencil and then score a line along this

    outline with an

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    Step ! Ne(t, glue the small metal bell to the plasticard circle on the upturned

    cup. gain, wait for the bond to dry completely.

    Step '  Ne(t, glue another, smaller disk of plasticard 2measuring appro(imately

    /5A+4 to the top of the metal bell.Step ( Then, clip off the lower portion of the Skaven Screaming 7ell bit 2/5)C+

    up from the bottom4 and glue it to the plasticard-topped portion of the

     bell.

    Step *1lue thin strips of plasticard 2about )5A+ thick4 around the circumference

    of the bell to make bands. To reinforce where the strip meets, glue a short

    length of plasticard over the gap.

    Step . 8lastic rod was cut into pieces and glued to the plasticard bands tosimulate rivets. &ark where the rivets will be placed with pencil before

    you glue the rivets onto the bands. Try to keep them as evenly spaced as

     possible.

    Step 3 ut out a Skaven symbol from card and glue it to the side of the bell. ddspare strips of plasticard and plastic rivets to the bell for added realism. 'nthe end, this is your Skaven 7ell. ;ou can make it as intricate as you like

     B it is the focus of the piece of scenery, after all.

    STAGE 11: Assemlin# the Bell A"m

    Step 1ut two thick pieces of balsa wood into two long arms 2both should

    measure )3+ long, 056+ high, and 05)C+ deep4. With an -shaped notch into each of the four arms# ends. Each of these notches

    should be F5)C+ deep and 05)C+ wide.

    Step 2  Now, you need to make two crossbeams to fit into the notches in thearms. gain, use an

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    Step 1lue both crossbeams into the >-shaped notches with white glue and

    allow the whole thing to dry.

    Step !ut out a piece of balsa wood that measures F56+ tall, / F56+ long, and

    05)C+ deep. Draw the pattern shown in the pictures above. The areas

    keyed in red use the following measurements=

    1& A5)C+ wide

    2& /56+ wide

    & 056+ wide

    !& F56+ wide

    Step ' ut out all the shaded areas as marked in Step A. Geyed rea H3 is theweakest point in the balsa wood, so take care when you cut this part free.

    Step (9nce you have cut out both of these parts, you#ll need to give each a small

    notch in order to hold the actual body of the bell. These notches should

    each measure about )56+ wide, 356+ tall, and /5)C+ deep.

    Step *&easure in )+ on each of the long beams that form the bell arm. &ake a

    mark at this point with a pen. These marks indicate where you will glue

    the two small notched arms 2:ust past the )+ mark4.

    Step . &easure and cut a thin piece of 05)C+(05)C+ balsa wood to a length of /05)C+. This beam will help support the weight of the bell.

    Step 3 Now, glue the assembled long armsI the small, notched bell support armsI

    and the cross beam with white glue as shown in the image above.

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    Step 14 Ne(t, cut out a piece of balsa wood that measures ) )5A+ wide, 05)C+ tall,

    and 6 F5)C+ long. >se a pen to divide the strip of balsa in half lengthwise.

    Then, with an

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    NOTE:  DO NOT  glue the bell arm to the short braces attached to the

    rock column or to the long braces near the small bell support arms. 'f you

    do, there will be no way to get the bell in place later as the bell must be

     painted separately.

    Step 1( Ne(t, make a platform and a ladder for Skaven sentries to stand on while

    they ring the bell. ut a 05)C+(05)C+ piece of balsa wood into two 3 )53+long strips and glue them straight out from the long braces about 3+ up.

    Step 1*ttach planks to the platform supports as you did with the rest of the

    scaffolding.

    Step 1. Now, using white glue, glue ladder rungs to the inside of the long braces.

    9nce you#re finished, continue to add plastic rod bit$ to the new areas of

    the watchtower to represent rivets and iron spikes. lso, nick-up all of the

    wooden beams with an

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    Column6 Sca--ol%in#6 an% Base

    ?irst, hand-paint the e(posed sections of foam with haos 7lack paint 2this seals it to

    keep the foam from melting from spray paint4. Then, prime the entire piece with

    haos 7lack Spray 8rimer.

    Column6 Roc+s6 an% 0atches o- )e"is

    Ruste% 7etal B"aces an% Ri$ets 

    Drybrush areas of e(posed stone with a

    heavy layer of Dark ?lesh, followed by

    ode( 1rey B make sure you allow the

    Dark ?lesh to show through a bit. @ightly

    drybrush with ?ortress 1rey. ?inally,

    drybrush the stone with a very light coat

    of Skull White.

    Touch-up the areas that will show rusted

    metal with haos 7lack. Then, heavily

    drybrush the areas with Dark ?lesh,

    followed by 7lood "ed and a light

    drybrushing of ?iery 9range.

    Rust 7a"+s on Stone 

    Woo%e% Beams6 B"aces6 an% 0lan+s 

    pply rust marks to the stone by

    drybrushing straight down from thesource of the rust mark. Drybrush the first

    layer with Dark ?lesh, followed by 7lood

    "ed and a final coat of ?iery 9range.

    Touch-up wooden areas with haos

    7lack if needed. !eavily drybrush these

    areas with Scorched 7rown followed byDark ?lesh, 7estial 7rown, and Snakebite

    @eather. @ightly drybrush Gommando

    Ghaki to finish the areas.

    Rope 

    The Bell 

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    "etouch the rope with haos 7lack and

    then basecoat it with Snakebite @eather.

    !ighlight with 7leached 7one and you#re

    done.

    8aint the bell with successive layers of

    metallic paint over a haos 7lack

    undercoat. Start with Tin 7it$, move on to

    7ra$en 7rass, and finish with Dwarf

    7ron$e. pply 1reen and 7rown 'nks to

    make the bell appear corroded.

    5inal Asseml,

    9nce all the paint has dried, seat the bell in the notches and allow it to swing freely

    2don#t glue it in%4. 1lue the bell arm in place with white glue on both the long braces

    and the small ones connected to the rock column.

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