1,295mm (51”) Wingspan Towline GliderDesigned by Neville Willis

FUSELAGESIDE VIEW

TAILPLANE

FIN

T11

T12

T10 T9 T8 T7 T6 T5 T4 T3 T2 T1 T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 T7 T8 T9 T10 T11

T12Shape leading

edge as shown

Trailing edge section

Bind to spar

Bind to ribs

Tailplane hook

Front

Trim after assembly

Pinholes for dethermaliserthread restrainer

3/16" (5mm) Square leading edge

1/8" x 1/16" (3 x 1.5mm) Spar

1/2" x 1/8" (12.5 x 3mm) Trailing edge

Alternativeauto-rudderarrangement

Rubber band in auto rudder line. See fuselage side view

Rubber in auto rudder line if using alternative system

F11

F11

F11Bend pin/wire as shown

to make eyelets

F1 F2 F3 F4F5

F6F8

F7

F10

F12

F13 F14

F15

Balance point

Add balancing weight in thesetwo front compartments

1/8" (3mm) Dowel

Clear plastic canopy

1/8" (3mm) Dowel

Fuselage side joint

F9 Joint brace

3/32" (2.5mm) Sheet balsa sides

1/4" x 1/8" (6 x 3mm) Tail stop

Fill in top & bottom with1/16" (1.5mm ) sheet 1/8" (3mm)

Dowel

Rudder hornLinen hinges

40° Tailplane tiltfor dethermaliser

action

Pattern forclear

plasticcanopy

Optional auto-rudder linecan be made from nylon cordRubber band

18 Gauge (1.2mm) Wiretow-hook

FUSELAGETOP VIEW

Tow line

Tow line

W7 W6 W5 W4 W1 W1 W1 W1 W2 W1 W1 W1 W1 W4 W5 W6

W7

Chamfer sides

Detail of assembly of towhook to ply part F11

1/16" (1.5mm) Sheet top & bottomwith grain running crosswise

F16

1/8" (3mm) Dowel

1/8" (3mm) DowelNuts & bolts

F11

F8

F8

F9

F9

All spacers 1/4" x 1/8" (6 x 3mm). Cutslightly oversize & trim �ush when set

F12

1/8" x 1/16" (3 x 1.5mm)Fin locating pieces

Chamfer ends

Detail sketch ofwing tip assembly

Trim away

Taper this sparfrom W4 to 1/8"(3mm) sq. at tip

1/4" x 1/8"(6 x 3mm)Top spar

1/4"x1/8" (6 x 3mm)

Bottom spar

1/4" (6mm) Square leading edge

1/8" x 3/32"(3 x 2.5mm)

Top spar

1/4" x 1/8"(6 x 3mm)Top spar

1/4" x 1/8" (6 x 3mm)

Bottom spar

1/8" x 3/32"(3 x 2.5mm)

Top spar

Trim away

3/4" x 3/16" (19 x 5mm)

Trailing edge

Bend rudder horn to thisshape from 20 gauge wire

4 3/4" (120mm) Dihedralat each wing tip

Rubber band

Thread in tension when on tow

Rudder straighton tow

Pin pushedinto �n

Thread slack in �ight

Rudder o�set in free �ight

OPTIONAL AUTO-RUDDER OPERATION

LEFT TIPPANEL

RIGHT TIPPANEL

W2

Leading edge section

F11

Tow lineAuto-rudder line

Rubber band

TOWING & AUTO-RUDDER ACTIONWhen towing the rubber band at the frontend of the auto-rudder line is looped over

the bent end of the towhook. This pulls therudder straight. When releasing from the towline the towline ring forces the rubber

band o� the towhook and the rudder ispulled to the right.

Trim former lugs �ushwith the fuselage sides

when glue is set

F16

Washout support

Glue rib W7 and sand �ushbefore covering or attach after

covering and leave proud

Strengtheners for joint

Keil Kraft Ⓡ is a registered trademark ofRipmax Ltd. and all rights are reserved.© Ripmax Ltd. 2017

Part No: A-KK1010

Only Suitable for Ages 14+To complete the model as illustrated you will need to purchase

further items such as tools and materials. Skill & patience required.

Choking Hazard - Contains small, keep out of reach of children.

Note that leading edgerests on building board

W6

General TipsDuring the build we suggest covering the plan in a clear plastic �lm to protect the plan as you build. You will need various hand tools, glues and other materials to complete this kit. These instructions are a brief overview of the major steps involved in building your Caprice kit. Please read them through �rst then and study the plan diagrams/notes to guide you through the build process in more detail.

FUSELAGEJoin the fuselage side pieces to make two complete fuselage sides, and when the glue has set, add the F9 splice braces, taking care that they will both be inside the fuselage when it is assembled. Glue the F5 and F6 former parts together as shown on the plan and allow to set. Using formers F4, F5, F6 and F7, join the two fuselage sides, taking care that they are accurately aligned. Next join the rear ends of the fuselage, holding them together with a bulldog clip or spring type clothes peg until the glue has set. Join the nose of the fuselage, using a piece of ¾” x 3/16” T.E. section as shown on the plan, once again clipping the sides together until set. Formers F1, F2 and F3 should be added at this stage. It should be emphasised that the nose formers must be well glued and the whole operation performed swiftly to allow for di�ering hardnesses of the balsa sides. It may be necessary to juggle slightly with the sides and formers to obtain a truly symmetrical nose entry.

Now add formers F9 and F10 and the ¼” x 1/8” spacers from the trailing edge position rearwards. Cut these slightly over size and trim to an exact �t when perfectly dry. Bend the 18 gauge tow hook to the shape shown on the plan and bolt to the front two holes in F11, which is then glued into formers F5 and F6. Add the two F8’s and the wing retaining dowels.

Drill the fuselage rear and �t the tailplane securing dowel. Now add F16 and sheet the top of the nose and the bottom of the fuselage from F2 to F5. Glue the �n F13 in place, making sure that this is vertical and true. Insert scrap 1/16” sheet between the �n and the bottom of the fuselage sides. When this assembly has set, the rudder F14 can be hinged in place as shown on plan. Bend the rubber horn to shape and attach to the rudder.

If you choose to �t a dethermaliser then �t this now. Sandpaper the whole fuselage with �ne sandpaper. and trim the clear plastic canopy to shape ready to �t after covering.

WINGStart by building the wing centre section. Cut all spars to length and pin the leading edge in place on the plan. Position the trailing edge and pin in place, packing up the front edge 3/32” (See plan). Glue the ribs in place, remembering that the end ribs (W2) must be set at an angle, use the dihedral template on the plan to ensure accuracy. The dihedral braces W9 and the W8 braces at the leading edge position should be added at this point. Now add the top spars, �tting braces W8 to the front edge of the front spar. When set, remove the structure from the plan and add the bottom spar and the remaining two W8 braces. Add the short spar across ribs W3 and the W10 gussets.

The two tip panels are built in a similar manner. The trailing edge should be assembled �rst, packed up as shown to give the necessary washout to the tips. The tip �ns (W7) are not added until after covering. Remove the tip assembly from the plan when set, add the bottom spar and trim the trailing edge to shape at the joint. The tips can now be added to the centre section. Trim the spar ends to shape then liberally glue all joints and mate up with the centre section. The dihedral under each tip should be 4 3/4” (120mm). Carve and sand the leading edge to the shape shown and lightly sand the entire structure. Cut a small piece of 1/64” ply for the trailing edge as shown on the plan. If you attach this after covering then this will help to prevent the wing bands from damaging the trailing edge balsa.

TAILPLANEAlthough of Warren girder construction, this is very easy and quick to build. Cut the trailing edge to shape and pin to the plan, gluing the joint well. Pin the leading edge in place and add all ribs, working from the centre outwards. When dry, the spar can be added. Remove from plan, shape leading edge and lightly sandpaper the whole assembly. Bend the tailplane hook and bind well to the spar and trailing edge, rubbing glue into the thread for added strength.

COVERINGCovering with tissue is simple if you follow the instructions carefully. Do not attempt to cover the wing with one piece of tissue, use at least six pieces, three for the top and three for the bottom. When covering the wing, take care that the tissue is stuck to the underside of all the ribs to give the required under-cambered section. Using tissue paste will help to position the tissue before applying dope; alternatively you can secure the tissue with a small amount of neat dope around the edges of the structure. Attach the tissue to the trailing edge �rst and carefully pull over to leading edge. Pull it taut but do not stretch it excessively or the tissue will tear. Smooth tissue down on to all pasted edges and trim surplus away with a knife. When all parts are covered and paste/dope dry, either spray the surface lightly with water or hold in the steam of a kettle. On drying the tissue will tighten and most if not all of the wrinkles disappear. To strengthen the tissue the surface needs to be carefully coated with special modelling dope, obtainable from your local model shop. Full instructions on how to use will be found on the tin, note that the dope will need to be reduced with thinners to avoid over shrinking and warping/damage. Cover the tailplanes and fuselage in a similar way taking care to keep the tissue tight and �nish with thinned dope. When the wing has been covered, glue the W7 tip �ns into position.

FINAL RIGGING AND TRIMMINGAssemble the model, holding the wings on with rubber bands hooked over the front wing dowel, passed across the top of the wing and hooked on to the rear dowel at the opposite side of the fuselage. To mount the tailplane, pass a rubber band on to the tailplane hook, bring forward across the tail, round the fuselage and back across the tail to the hook. This will put the tail up into the dethermalised position and the thread strainers should be �tted so that the tailplane is at an angle of 40° to the fuselage. Pull the tail down into the �ying position and hold by means of a band between the tailplane hook and the rear dowel.

Carefully check the model and see that there are no warps. The success of the model depends upon it being free from warps and rigged squarely. Remove any warps that may have occurred by holding near a gentle source of heat and carefully twisting the warps out. DO NOT FORGET THAT MODEL AEROPLANES ARE HIGHLY INFLAMMABLE.

Add F12 and the 1/8” x 1/4” tailplane stop, making sure that the wing and tailplane are perfectly aligned. Make eyelets from pins, insert in the fuselage where shown and connect up the auto rudder. Two systems are shown on the plan, either of which will prove satisfactory. Check that the auto rudder is working correctly. With the model assembled, add weight to the nose of the model until the model balances at the point shown on the plan.

TEST FLYINGHand launch the Caprice aiming for a 100 foot (30m) diameter circle to the right. Lock the auto rudder in the straight position and trim the tailplane until a slight stall is apparent. The turning circle should just negate this stall. The tow hook position given on the plan should prove satisfactory and give a straight tow. However, if the model weaves from side to side, remove the hook and re-bolt into the two rear bolts in F11. No further remedy should be necessary. If there is a violent tendency to turn in one direction when on tow, this will either be caused by a warp, or the �n will be found to be out of line.

With a model of this type, it is important that it should be moving fast when it leaves the tow line. When properly trimmed, this results in a slight stall with the model �icking o� to the right at the top of the stall. Use strong nylon cord for your tow line (�shing line), a 100 feet (30m) length being suitable for general �ying. For contest work, the line length should be 164 feet (50m). From a line of this length, the Caprice should regularly turn in �ights of about two minutes without thermal assistance.

W1 W1 W1 W1W2 W3 W3 W3 W1 W1 W1 W1 W2

W8

W8

W8

W9

W10

W10 W10

WINGCENTRE

SECTION

3/4" x 3/16" (19 x 5mm) Trailing edge

1/8" x 3/32" (3 x 2.5mm)Top & bottom

Note: No dihedralon centre panel

1/16" (1.5mm) Ply support (top only)

1/4" x 1/8" (6 x 3mm)Top spar

1/8" x 3/32"(3 x 2.5mm)Top spar

Support trailing edges withscrap 1/16" (1.6mm) between

each rib whilst building

1/4" (6mm) Square leading edge

W11

W10W8

W8

W8

W9

1/4" x 1/8" (6 x 3mm)Bottom spar

Pre-cut supports to provide1/8" (3mm) washout (twist) at wing tips. Do not glue to wing

Leading edge section

DIHEDRALTEMPLATE

Use template toangle all W2

ribs as shown

W2W1

Surface ofbuilding board

Lower spar

FRONT VIEW OF WING ROOT

Dihedral braces are1/16" (1.5mm)ply wood

Approx positionof dihedral templatefor checking rib angle

W3