40065213 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to 43 Eccles Street, Ottawa, ON K1R 6S3

Plus 95 more!

An EdiblE GuidE to thE city

No. 4 Triple berry pie

No. 5 lamb tourtièreNo. 29 lobo applesNo. 79ottawa river sturgeonNo. 82 Bison egg rollsNo. 94 Pumpkin pie fudge

on The record wiTh Terry Kilrea • weighing in on The lawyers’ legal language

101101tastesto trybeforeyou die

tastesto trybeforeyou die

The afTermaTh: deconsTrucTing The o’Brien Trial

With files from Jane Corbett, amélie Crosson, Cindy deaChman, daniel drolet, Fateema sayani, and shawna wagman

Eat up!

Memories’ triple berry pie

Raspberries, blackberries, and cranberries. Oh, my! This stunning deep-dish wonder is refreshingly tart, bursting with bright berry flavour, and topped with crunchy brown sugar oat crumble. The only thing better? Three words: à la mode. $7.25. Memories, 7 Clarence St., 613-241-1882.

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Great Aunt Gerty’s

tomato chili sauce This sweet and spicy concoction — reminiscent of the tomato chow-chow your mom used to make — is produced locally in nearby South March. Great on burgers. $6.99/500 mL. The Carp Farmers’ Market. For other locations, call 613-599-6075, www.carpfarmers-market.com.

simPle PleasUres Comfort food goes haute, with gourmet pies, ice cream, and — to wash it down, a fine microbrew

PAscAle’s ice creAm Made

with heart and a whole lot of cream, eggs, and sugar, Pascale Berthiaume’s decadent homemade ice cream has the city swooning. The peanut but-ter salted caramel is a party in a half-pint and proves there’s no such thing as being too rich or too yummy. $10 for a half-pint. The Piggy Market, 400 Winston Ave.,613-371-6124. For other locations, check www.pascales-icecream.com. 41

lAmb tourtière from les fougères lots of meat in this ground lamb tourtière, made moist with the addition of pork, as

well as goat cheese. its fruitiness comes from red peppers, red currant jelly, and balsamic vinegar. $6/single, $16/four servings. les Fougères, 783 hwy. 105, Chelsea, 819-827-8942, www.fougeres.com.

bryson fArm’s bAby sAlAd greens Digging into

a bag of Bryson Farm’s organic salad greens is like opening nature’s box of chocolates. You never know what you’re gonna get: mâche, endive, frisée, kale, arugula, cress, sorrel, beet tops, chards. From sweet and lemony to mustardy and spicy, more than 100 varieties are grown and snipped with care throughout the year. 23 Stewart Rd., Shawville, 819-647-3456, www.brysonfarms.com.

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beAu’s lug treAd beer

you’ve gotta love a family-run homegrown microbrewery with its own band, called the oh-yeah’s. the beer, made with certified organic malt and local spring water, is just as refreshing as its quirky brand-ing. $7.65/750 ml. available at many restaurants, bars, and lCbo stores. www.beaus.ca.

101Must-Try-Before-You-Die Tastes

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styling by noah witenoffPhotography by Christian lalonde, Photoluxstudio.com

two months, dozens of meals, hundreds of taste tests, and one order of braised veal sweetbreads later, we’re thrilled to reveal ottawa magazine’s first 101 tastes list. we took a spectacular culinary stroll through the capital region, stopping to taste all that caught our fancy along the way. the only parameters? From bread to honey and burfi to rendang, the food and drink that made the cut had to be either made in ottawa, unique to ottawa, or hard to find elsewhere. bon appétit!

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Spicy fennel sausages Made with high-quality pork shoulder

butt and nothing else except fennel seed, chilies, and salt. Plump and juicy. $9.99/kg. Luciano Foods, 114 Preston St., 613-233-1972.

the red seA coffee beAns A blend from Ethiopia and Yemen

makes for sharp, deep coffee. Roasted dark on the premises. $13/lb. Ideal Coffee, 176 Dalhousie St., 613-562-1775, www.idealcoffees.com.

Kefir Russia’s answer to

yogourt, kefir tastes more complex, with a slight sweetness balancing the sour. I’m a convert. $5.99/kg. Sold in a return-able glass jar ($1 deposit). Herb & Spice Shop, 1310 Wellington St. W., 613-722-5747.

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Red Apron’s peanut butter and banana handcrafted

gourmet granola gets a sexy makeover with the unexpected addition of natural peanut butter, local honey, and crunchy banana chips. it’s the best yogourt topper in town. $10/500 g. the red apron, 571 gladstone ave., 613-321-0417, www.redapron.ca.

Free-range eggs Just like in the old days 40 years

ago, these hens, reared near Oxford Station, have the run of the barn. And their eggs? Tasty with good, firm yolks. From $3.75/doz. Beking Poultry, at the Byward Market, 613-258-5396, www.bekingseggs.com.

Art-is-in 12-grAin And fennel seed

dynAmite bAguette The bread that launched a thousand addictions. Devotees can be spotted all over town tearing off and devouring hunks of this beautiful bread with abandon. Knock-offs abound, but this is the original recipe created by baker Kevin Mathieson, laced with passion, pure extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, and a light lingering licorice flavour. $4.95. Ottawa Farmers’ Market at Lansdowne Park and about 20 retail locations. www.art-is-in-bakery.com.

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11Piggy mArket PeAmeAl bAcon There are so many reasons this artisanal product kicks supermarket-bacon butt. It starts with a tasty heritage breed of piggy (Tamworth) that’s brined for a week in salt, sugar, bay leaf, and Amarillo chili for a slightly citrusy zing and then rolled in cornmeal. Sliced to order. $30.80/kg. The Piggy Market, 400 Winston Ave., 613-371-6124, www.thepiggymarket.com.

milk If you’re old enough, you’ll remember when milk came in glass bottles. Cochrane’s Dairy Farm in Russell still sells milk that way

— and with old-fashioned taste to boot. $2.95/L, plus a $3 deposit on the bottle. Sold at Kettleman’s Bagel Co., 912 Bank St., 613-567-7100; 2177 Carling Ave., 613-722-4357; 1222 Place d’Orleans Dr., 613-841-4439; and about 10 other locations.

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thyme & AgAin’s crAnberry PeAch jAm Peaches give this jam its softness, while cranberries bring luscious red colour and fruity flavour. $7.75/314 mL. Thyme & Again, 1255 Wellington St. W., 613-722-6277, www.thymeandagain.ca.

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the breakFast ClUbit’s time to take the most important meal of the day seriously. our suggestions for the ultimate home-style breakfast

Restaurant Barbe’s roast pork sandwich

Sandwiches that are even better than those you ate growing up. For these, pork loin is roasted simply with salt, pepper, and garlic, then thickly sliced. Lettuce and mustard, as you wish. $3.85. Restaurant Barbe, 122, rue Eddy, Gatineau, 819-777-7384.

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toWer-o-rings from the Works

Twelve hot, golden, deep-fried onion rings come stacked around a metal spike and are served with a choice of 12 dips — from chipotle mayo to garlicky beachhouse to smoky barbecue. They are a favoured preamble to the meaty and fried experience that is dining at The Works. Every bite feels wicked. But who cares? Don’t tell your cardi-ologist; just enjoy the perfect rings that stay put when you bite into them — no hot onion sliding out at first bite — and meet every craving for fried, salty goodness. $9.41. The Works, 326 Richmond Rd., 613-564-0406, and four other locations, www.worksburger.com.

oUt to lUnChthe joy of repackaging the ubiquitous sandwich in deliciously unique ways

WhAlesbone broWn bAg lunch From the restaurant’s warehouse kitchen come the city’s freshest and tastiest fish sandwiches, topped with

mayo, lettuce, and sweet caramelized onions. It doesn’t actually come in a brown bag, but no matter, the grab ’n’ go walleye burger is another reason to love Fridays. $5.50. Available Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Whalesbone Sustainable Oyster & Fish Supply, 504A Kent St., 613-231-3474, www.thewhalesbone.com.

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Chicken tikka wrap Arguably the best lunch to be found in the Byward Market: fresh blistered naan stuffed and rolled with moist tandoori chicken breast, chopped lettuce, and a creamy-sweet spiced mayo. $6.60. Shafali’s Bazaar, 55 Byward Market, 613-789-9188, www.shafali.com.

the meatball sandwich at Parma ravioli Comfort food like no other. Huge and messy, dripping with sauce and cheese. Eat, then nap. $8. Parma Ravioli, 1314 Wellington St. W., 613-722-4011.

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21 knish Eastern Europe’s answer to the empanada, this baseball-sized hand-held golden pastry is stuffed with mashed potatoes, making it the ultimate comfort nosh. Saslove’s Meat Market, 1333 Wellington St. W., 613-722-0086, www.saslovesmeat.com.

22 sWeet PotAto And cinnAmon breAd Alongside the traditional Ethiopian sandwiches and snacks that have become a fixture at sev-eral area markets are pint-sized dense and deli-cious loaves of sweet potato bread swirled with cinnamon and raisins. Those who have tried it sliced, toasted, and buttered tend to buy bunches each week. $4. True Food Ecostere, year-round Ottawa Organics Market, Ottawa Farmers’ Market, and Main Street Market.

24 rustic, hAnd-formed miniAture Pies The perfect size for two to share or one to splurge! The bakers at Savoury Pursuits create flaky pastry from scratch to enclose all manner of juicy fruit fillings. Try the strawberry-rhubarb, blackberry, or blueberry. Pop them into the freezer to have on hand for impromptu dinner guests. $2 each or six pies for $10. Ottawa Farm-ers’ Market at Lansdowne Park and the Carp Farmers Market. www.savourypursuits.com.

25 heritage tomatoes A cacophony of tomato colours: Costuloto Genovese are Italian, red, and deeply ribbed; Zebras are green with pale stripes; and the tiny Chocolate Cherries come in ruddy brown. All organic. $4/lb. Ferme Orient stand at the Byward Market on York St., 613-488-2097.

26 christoPhe’s orgAnic mushrooms All the top chefs use the moniker “Christophe” to signal their not-so-secret local celebrity source for fresh exotic fungi from Le Coprin farm in Farrelton, Quebec. Varieties include the meaty and delicious king eryngii, blue oysters, marvel-lous morels, and flame-coloured chanterelles. Ottawa Farmers’ Market at Lansdowne Park. For other locations, check www.lecoprin.ca.

27 asian fruit salad An exotic fruit mix: lychee, mangos, and finger bananas, all creamy and sweet. Saigon Meats & Vegetables, 777 Somerset St. W., 613-233-3294.

23 glengyle garlic’s feta garlic spread Small cubes of feta mix it up with garlic, pine nuts, sun-dried tomatoes, and coriander. Decadence just waiting to be spooned onto slices of fresh baguette. $8/8 oz. Ottawa Farmers’ Market at Lansdowne Park and Carp Farmers’ Market.

28 PAczki Glazed Polish doughnuts, old-style, filled with dark plum butter. Fresh from Montreal on Sundays. 60 cents each. Wedel, 221 Bell St. N., 613-237-0151.

29 lobos Some love to eat Lobo apples unripe, with salt. Is that weird? The rest of us prefer a Lobo dark-red ripe, biting into its sweet, crisp, white flesh. $6/4 L (less if you pick your own). Cannamore Orchards, 1480 County Rd. 32, Crysler, 613-448-3633, www.cannamoreorchard.com.

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rAsPberry mini-cheesecAkes

A three-bite morsel that’s as cute as a button. Good balance between creamy and dry. $2 each. Second Avenue Sweets, 151B Second Ave., 613-233-7277.

lover’s leAP ceylon teA The fragrance of Lover’s Leap black tea hints of flowers. Its light, clean taste just picks you right up. From Sri Lanka. $5.50/50 g. Tea & Ginseng, 504 Bank St., 613-236-5524, www.teaandginseng.com.

beWitching bAking from the scone Witch

Since the 1980s, Heather Matthews has bewitched our taste buds with the rich and flaky queen of Anglo-Saxon baking: the scone. The Scone Witch offers a daily selection of three savoury and five sweet scones. Pick them up baked, or bake them yourself and have your friends think they’re homemade. $1.90 each. 388 Albert St., 613-232-2173.

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bAklAvA filled with walnuts. Co-owner Jacque-

line Jaber learned this recipe from her mother, who was taught by her mother, who was . . . you get the picture. $1.25/piece. Middle East Bakery, 605 Somerset St. W., 613-238-7342.

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Queen Elizabeth cake an old-fashioned moist, dense cake filled with dates is topped with a toasted-coconut walnut icing. $2.25/square. bread & roses bakery, 11 beechwood ave., 613-745-2087.

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36lAvender Deep purple bunches of dried lavender — the real ones from France — can hold their perfume for

years. Use sparingly to make delicate shortbread. $15. A.D.C. Fines Herbes, Byward Market, 613-527-2503.

shortbreAd lA gAillArde These all-butter shortbread cookies, made in Wakefield, are the chewy antithesis of the industrial cookie. $6.95 for a box of 16 medium-sized cookies. Pastina, 355, boul. Greber, Gatineau, 819-243-0546, www.pastina.ca.

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siPPing Prettysome traditional and not so traditional ideas for a standout afternoon-tea ritual

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roséliAnne rosé cider

is light and sparkling, flavoured with a little raspberry. So easy to drink, you may forget about Rosélianne’s alcoholic kick. From Montreal’s North Shore. $14/750 mL. Verger Lacroix at the Marché Vieux-Hull, rue La-val, Gatineau (Hull sector), 450-623-4888, www.vergerlacroix.ca.

alFresCo deliCioso grab the wicker basket and make a date with mother nature. you can eat them at home, too, but outdoor gourmets will fall head over heels for these picnic picks

True Loaf’s decadent bun

This chewy bun, with a base of toasted almonds, is studded throughout with pieces of dark chocolate, candied orange, and candied ginger. $2. True Loaf, 573 Gladstone Ave., 613-680-4178.

zAAtAr Pronounced ZAH-tar, this is pita with zap. And the teens at Notre Dame High School know it, eschewing cafeteria

fare and lining up out the door of Aladdin Convenience every lunch hour. Here, the zaatar comes fresh from the in-store oven, the dough brushed with canola oil, sesame seeds, and thyme. The result is a slightly citric snack that is satisfying on its own or can be dipped into hummus, tzatziki, baba ganoush, or other Middle Eastern treats. $1.25. Aladdin Convenience, 1801 Carling Ave., 613-728-5331, and 1020 St. Laurent Blvd., 613-742-4244.

cocoA cAmino’s dArk chocolAte bAr With orAnge Produced by an ottawa co-operative, this deep, smooth chocolate is lifted by essence of orange. $3.75/100-g bar. herb & spice shop, 375 bank st., 613-232-4087.

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lemon And sAlt PistAchios Fresh, magnificent pistachios are ordered from iran, then sent to mon-treal for roasting. First hit is of salt, then a burst of lemon, followed by the sweet meat of the nut. extremely addictive. $8.99/lb. shiraz, 607 somerset st. w., 613-563-1207.

berg en dAl honey more reasons to marvel at mother

nature: spring, summer, and autumn honey from the gatineau hills. each season’s bounty relies on the bees’ affinity for a different set of wildflowers, which creates three unique flavours with as much complexity and character as a glass of fine wine. $4.50/330 g. available at the ottawa Farmers’ market at lansdowne Park and the Piggy market, 400 winston ave. For other locations, call 819-459-3539. www.bergendalhoney.com.

glengArry fine cheeses

The Ottawa area has a long tradition of cheese making. A new addition is Glengarry Fine Cheeses, which began production December of last year in Lancaster. They produce 10 varieties and sell in them in the Ottawa area. The Glengarry Fen is a nice hard Welsh-style cheese with a medium-strong taste. Priced according to weight. La Bottega Nicastro, 64 George St., 613-789-7575. For other locations, check www.glengarrycheesemaking.on.ca.

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37 blAck irish PlAin Porter It’s the colour of molasses, and there’s a little molasses sweet-ness, too, in this porter, with an undertone of tobacco-like bitterness to carry you through. Lighter than a stout. $2.10/341 mL. From Scotch Irish Brewing. Available at the LCBO.

38 sterling’s Porterhouse steAk In the Ottawa Valley, steak is indubitably king. And this steak is Sterling Silver — high quality indeed. Searing it over a maple-wood fire only adds to its intense beefy flavour. Magnifique. $48. Sterling, 835, rue Jacques Cartier, Gatineau, 819-568-8788, www.sterlingrestaurant.com.

39 burfi from desh Typically described as Indian fudge, this locally made cream-coloured burfi is cut into small diamond-shaped tablets. Very sweet, with a high note of rosewater. $6.49/lb. Desh Grocery, 366 Rideau St., 613-244-3839.

40 tiramisù Made by Maria Nicastro her-self. This Italian dessert is gentle, creamy and, despite the mascarpone, light. Best tiramisù in town. $3.49/piece. Casa Nicastro, 304 Preston St., 613-238-2018, www.casanicastro.ca.

41 islAnd flAvA’s cAribbeAn hot sAuce Owner Lennox Antoine may keep his recipe under wraps, but he does admit that the hot sauce contains fruit. Not for sale separately. Instead, order a goat roti ($8) to have with it. Island Flava, 409 Dalhousie St., 613-321-4198.

42 shrimP rice noodles Comfort food Asian-style, fresh thick rice noodles are speck-led with dried shrimp. Steam, then enjoy with soy sauce. $1.99/550 g. Wa Kiu Foods, 713 Somerset St. W., 613-235-3134.

43 rabbit Finally, Anglos are enjoying rabbit. These — raised in Laval, Quebec — are tender and meaty. Slather with garlicky aïoli and barbecue. $16.99/kg. Luciano Foods, 114 Preston St., 613-233-1972.

44 Aubrey’s merguez sAusAge The flavour of lamb peeks through the spiciness of the cayenne in these peewee sausages. Made on the premises. $7.25/lb. Aubrey’s Meat, 59 York St., 613-241-4093.

45 ground Pork from sAigon For juicy, sticky Thai burgers, add lime leaves, garlic, and mint to this ground pork. Chilies, too, for fire. $2.69/lb. Saigon Meats & Vegetables, 777 Somerset St. W., 613-233-3294.

46 orgAnic frisée This endive seed, called Louviers, was developed 100 years ago. Beauti-ful finely cut leaves. $3. Ferme Orient stand at the Byward Market on York St., 613-488-2097.

47 serrAno hAm from misto A couple of glasses of sherry, a crust of bread, a plate of rustic dark red jamón serrano from Spain, and all is all right. $5.99/100 g. Misto, Hampton Park Plaza, 1387 Carling Ave., 613-798-9367.

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55the tAble’s chocolAte cheesecAke Set among virtuous vegetarian organic vittles lies the creamiest, most decadent chocolate cheesecake one could ever hope for. Worth its weight in gold. $25/kg. The Table Vegetarian Restaurant, 1230 Wellington St., 613-729-5973.

stubbe’s cArAmelized hAzelnuts Gleaned from a laborious French

recipe for noisette dragée, frozen sugar-crusted nuts are coated with untempered chocolate (most chocolate confections are tempered to harden quickly), which has a lower melting point in the mouth (genius!). This step is repeated three times before a final bath in cocoa powder. $5.75/100 g. Stubbe Chocolates, 375 Dalhousie St., 613-241-1040, www.stubbechocolates.com.

florentines When U.S. President

Barack Obama visited Ottawa in February, he stopped for cookies at Le Moulin de Provence — thereby making their shortbread famous. If he had bought a florentine instead, Obama might never have left the city. The traditional florentine recipe includes slivered almonds and orange peel. The Moulin ver-sion eschews both and delivers a satisfying yet ethereal celebration of caramelized sugar and milk chocolate with, according to pastry chef Yann Le Guennec, only a hint of powdered almonds. $1.95 each. Le Moulin de Provence, 55 Byward Market Sq., 613-241-9152.

bAnoffee Pie A don’t-you-dare-take-it-off-the-menu item — layers of creamy toffee, sliced fresh banana, and loads of barely sweetened

whipped cream topped with chocolate shavings fill a crumbly graham cracker crust. $7. Allium, 87 Holland Ave., 613-792-1313, www.alliumrestaurant.com.

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ChoColate dreamswhen it comes to dessert, for many connoisseurs only the real deal will do. Chocolate. but not just any chocolate. these sweet treats are chocolates with serious pedigree

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Giant Handmade Peanut Butter Cups

Unlike the one in the orange package, this gem features top-quality Belgian chocolate as the ridged cup. The grainy filling has been replaced with a mouthful of pure peanut butter topped with gooey homemade caramel. This is a guilty pleasure of grown-up proportions. $4.95. Truffle Treasures, 314 Richmond Rd., 613-761-3859; 769 Bank St., 613-230-3859;www.truffletreasures.com.

Pure crAnberry juice Prepare to pucker!

The pure cranberry juice produced by La Vallée des canneberges at Venosta, Quebec, just north of Low, is sold unadul-terated and unsweetened. Combine it with sparkling water or juice to make your own cranberry cocktail. At $12.49 for one litre, it’s no bargain — but a little goes a long way. La Trappe à Fromage, 200, rue Bellehumeur, Gatineau, 819-243-6411, www.trappeafromage.com.

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61 Cambodian satay hot sauce Peanuts, sesame seeds, and garlic give stupendous flavour and body to this made-in-house chili-infused oil, even perking up pizza. $10/450 mL. Phnom Penh Noodle House, 1100 Wellington St. W., 613-722-8588.

62 coconut lAgoon’s trAvAncore-style fish curry Kingfish, white and meaty, is a natural for this South Indian dish by chef Joe Thottungal. Smoky and sour black tamarind flavours the fish, hot chilies provide fire, then coconut milk and mild Kashmiri red pepper gently smooth everything. Gorgeous yellow- orange colour. $12.95. Coconut Lagoon, 853 St. Laurent Blvd., 613-742-4444, www.coconutlagoon.ca.

63 Poivre long With resinous and earthy flavours underscoring its pepperiness, Sri Lank-an long pepper adds a je ne sais quoi to a garlic and olive oil pasta dish. $10.59/118 g. Ottawa Bagelshop & Deli, 1321 Wellington St. W., 613-722-8753.

64 ArgAn oil Liquid Moroccan gold. Drizzle argan oil over a dish of potatoes and wild mushrooms to add a round, nutty flavour. $13.99/50 mL. Byward Fruit Market, 36 Byward Market Sq., 613-241-6542.

65 el meson’s cAstelo dourAdo More a beehive than a golden castle, as the name suggests, for 15 years this signature Portuguese dessert has left Ottawa diners blissfully enjoying the rich, melt-in-your-mouth meringue bathed in a cool crème anglaise and sprinkled with cinnamon. $6.25. 94 Beech-wood Ave., 613-744-8484.

66 clover coffee At bridgeheAd The high-tech Clover coffee brewing system looks like a water cooler crossed with an iMac and functions like a cross between a French press and a vacuum pot. Installed at several Bridgehead locations around town, it makes the smoothest, most complex cup of joe imaginable. $2.63/cup. 224 Dalhousie St., plus nine other locations. 613-562-9996, www.bridgehead.ca.

67 frAser cAfé’s homemAde dough-nuts Sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and flavoured with sour cream, buttermilk, and a pinch of nutmeg, these deep-fried darlings bring new meaning to dunkin’ donuts — each order comes with a pair of dips: fresh apple caramel and espresso chocolate ganache with a tiny scoop of vanilla ice cream. $7. 7 Spring-field Rd., 613-749-1444, www.frasercafe.ca.

68 kouign aman Think of this tradi-tional Breton pastry (pronounced KOO-ine ah-MAHN) as a butter croissants layered with sugar and, well, more butter before being baked into a dense, chewy, crusty, crispy caramelized miniature cake. Divine with coffee. $2.75. Available on Saturdays only at Cyclelogik, 1111A Wellington St. W., 613-722-2345.

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