10 cents

AUTHORIZED DEALER

Powe/tlooC/Hwufwofe

PREPARED BY

T C C - - = i ~ CORPORATION • SPRINGFIELD, MASS.

INTRODUCTION

Owning a home workshop is not only ahealthful hobby but a very lucrative pastime.With power tools anyone can do professionalwoodworking and thus handle home repairsand improvements, make furniture, toys,gifts, etc. You can start your home work-shop with one power tool and add others asyou acquire the need for them.

Many home craftsmen do not have a com-plete workshop. You will find by readingthis booklet that the various operations pos-sible on one or two power tools will enableyou to do hundreds of fast, accurate jobs.

The purpose of this booklet is to showsome of the numerous ways you can use yourpower tools to best advantage. After youhave become familiar with these commonshop procedures you can obtain furtherinformation from numerous sources.

This booklet has been prepared by Tool-kraft Corporation of Springfield, Mass.,manufacturers of Darra-James Power Tools.

MOTORMOUNT

TILTINGWHEEL

ELEVATINGWHEEL

FIGURE 1

THE CIRCULAR SAWA circular saw is the basic power tool for anyshop. In choosing a circular saw it is bestto get a tilting arbor saw. With this typesaw you always have the convenience andsafety of a level surface to work on . . . theblade tilts for angular ripping or cross cut-ting. You will find the best workmanshipand quality in the tilting arbor saws, inpreference to the tilting table or stationaryblade saw. Remember, it is a good idea toget the best first.

There is no limit to the many operationsyou can do on a tilting arbor saw with expertresults. You can cross cut, rip and mitercut wood and other materials. You canmake rabbett and mortise cuts for frames,screens, etc. Rough lumber can be cut tosize and shape desired.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONSBefore using power saws remember these

few hints: Loose ties and floppy sleeves aredangerous. Roll up sleeves or have themdown with cuffs fastened. Do not standdirectly in back of blade while cutting toprevent injury from sudden kickback ofwork. Kickbacks are caused while rippinglumber with knots or binding of work causedby misalignment of blade and fence. Alwaysuse a pusher stick when sawing narrow work(see Figure 4). Always stop saw beforemaking any adjustments, when removingstock, or cleaning table. Examine woodcarefully to make sure it is free of nails orother foreign matter. Apply kerosene to theblade before cutting raw wood with excessivepitch.

Hold wood firmly against miter gage orrip fence and feed with blade raised justenough to cut through material. Feedslowly . . . do not force faster than blade cuts.

Keep your bench saw clean and free ofsawdust.

STATIC ELECTRICITYA user may at times receive a slight shock

upon touching the saw, leading him to thinkthere is faulty wiring. This is usually causedby a charge of static electricity built up byfriction between moving parts, such asbetween V-belt and pulley. This can beeliminated by grounding to a water or heat-ing pipe.

SELECTION OF SAW BLADEFour types of circular saw blades are used

for all ordinary wood work.

RIP CROSSCUT COMBINATION

FIGURE 2

CROSSCUT SAW BLADESThe crosscut saw blade is designed to cut

across the grains of a board. The teeth aredesigned to slice cleanly.

RIP SAW BLADESThe rip saw blade is designed for greatest

efficiency when sawing a board lengthwisein the direction of the grain. When a givenjob consists entirely of rip-sawing, use of therip saw blade will save much time.

COMBINATION SAW BLADESThe combination blade is designed to give

the greatest efficiency in both crosscuttingand ripping when the job consists of generalcrosscutting, ripping and mitering where timewaste and trouble of changing blades wouldbe excessive. The crosscut teeth shear thewood in parallel grooves and the raker chiselsthe fibers out from between. The blade cutsslower than blades designed for these special-ized functions.

HOLLOW GROUND BLADESThe hollow ground blade is designed for

specialized sawing. The teeth are not bentoutward to form a set. The body of theblade is ground in on both sides to obtainclearance and permit free running withoutbinding. Since the teeth are not bent out-ward, they do not scratch the sides of thekerf, hence the cut edge of the board looks asif it had been planed.

CROSSCUTTINGCrosscutting is cutting the wood across

the grain. At least one edge of the boardshould be as straight as possible. Hold thisedge of the work firmly against miter gauge.Usually, the miter gauge is placed in backof the work as shown in Figure 3. Mitergauge can be reversed when crosscuttingwide boards and pushed ahead of the boardwhile holding board firmly against miter.

FIGURE 3

Crosscutting with work held against miter.

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RIP SAWINGRip sawing is cutting the wood with the

grain. The fence is usually used to controlthe width of the cut. At least one edge ofthe work should be as straight as possible asit is pushed along the fence. When sawingnarrow boards, use a push stick as shownin Figure 4.

FIGURE 4

Rip sawing with fence —- using push stick.

MITER SAWINGMiters are crosscuts at an angle. At least

one edge of the work should be as straight aspossible. The miter gauge should be set atthe desired angle to make the cut. Thestraight edge of the material should be heldtightly in position against the face of themiter gauge.

FIGURE 5

Miter sawing with extension rods holding work.

FIG. 6: Using auxiliary board on miter gauge.

If wide or long work is sawed, it is advis-able to screw or bolt an auxiliary extensionboard to the face of the miter gauge as shownin Figure 6. To prevent binding and chat-tering, this board should be attached so therewill be J-jj" space between it and the sawtable. A piece of fine sandpaper cemented(rough side out) to the face of the mitergauge or auxiliary extension board will helpto hold the work in position.

SANDING WITH THE CIRCULAR SAWThe circular saw can be a very efficient

disc sander by simply using a sanding discin place of saw blade. Sanding disc can havedifferent grits of sandpaper on either side.

FIGURE 7

Hold work against miter gauge and downward side ofsanding disc.

THE DADO HEADThe dado head is used to cut rabbets and

grooves of various widths and depths. Thedado head is composed of two outside sawblades and a set of chippers. If two or morechippers are used, they should be spaced asequally as possible around the circumferenceof the assembled head to avoid vibration.First, mount one of the saw blades, whichare the combination type, on the saw arbor.Then mount one or more chipper blades.

8

FIGURE 8

The assembled dadohead.

The cutting edges of the chipper blades areswaged or spread. The chipper cuttingedges should coincide with the gullets (thespace between tips of adjacent saw teeth)of both saw blades.

If the saw blades have both crosscut andraker teeth, the chipper cutting edges shouldcoincide with the raker teeth gullets. Afterthe assembled dado head is placed in posi-tion, replace outer washer and arbor nut. Besure to tighten arbor nut securely. If dadoset is too wide outside washer can be left off.The guard and splitter assembly should beremoved when the dado head is used. When-ever the dado head is used, the dado insertplate should be placed in the saw table.

CUTTING DADOESGrooves cut across the grain of the wood

are called dadoes. They are usually cut atright angles, but may also be cut at otherangles. As operations with a dado head aresimilar to using a saw blade, the miter gaugeshould be used in the same manner.

GROOVE CUTTINGA channel cut made with the grain of the

wood is called a groove. As operations witha dado head are similar to using a saw blade,the fence should be used in the same mannersuggested for rip sawing.

FIGURE 9

FIGURE 10 Cutting a groove with the dado head.

RABBET CUTTINGA rabbet is a step-like cut made on the end

or edge of a board. They are quickly cutwhen the fence is used as a guide. The dadohead assembly should be slightly wider thanthe rabbet desired to insure a clean edge. Therabbet should be cut on the edge of the boardfurthest from the fence

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FIGURE 1 1: Molding cutter heads.

THE MOLDING CUTTER HEAD ASSEMBLY

A typical molding head (Figure 11) assem-bly is composed of the molding head, anAllen type wrench, a spacer bushing, }•£"and %" arbor bushings, and a set of (3) cut-ter blades. The head should be assembledas follows:

1. Insert each cutter blade into head withcutting edge (high edge) toward front andsecure with the lock screws. Figure 11shows the assembled cutter head.

2. The molding head is installed in placeof the regular saw blade as follows:

Then place assembled head onto arborwith cutting edges facing front of saw.

As the regular saw insert plate cannot beused in the table, it will be necessary to usea molding cutter or dado insert plate.

Turn head manually to determine if —Head is running true.All head parts clear all saw parts.

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FIGURE 12

Molding cutter head in use with auxiliary fence boards.Guide boards held with C clamps keep work from

jumping.

MOLDING CUTTER FENCEIt is easy to adapt your rip fence to a

molding cutter fence as follows:1. Make two ^" thick auxiliary fence

boards the exact height and length of the ripfence.

2. From a %" thick piece of scrap lumbermake a shim board the exact height andlength of the rip fence.

3. Place the rip fence in operating positionon the saw table.

4. Place the shim board against the ripfence and one auxiliary board against theshim board so they will match the height andlength of the rip fence.

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5. All three parts should be securelyclamped together and the rip fence clampedinto position so the auxiliary board will beover the cutter head.

6. Then use a set of planer and jointercutter blades in the head to cut a semi-circu-lar notch in the bottom edge of the auxiliaryboard for cutter clearance.

7. The cutter blades should be below thetop of the table when the work is placed inposition.

8. Start the saw and gradually raise theheight of the molding head, taking as manyshallow cuts as necessary to cut the notch 1"deep. Feed work slowly.

9. Prepare the other auxiliary fence boardin like manner and mount the two boards onopposite sides of the rip fence with counter-sunk bolts and nuts. Figure 12 shows thefinished molding cutter fence in use.

FIGURE 13

Typical molding cutter knives.

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TILTINGTABLE

\

TILT SCALEFIGURE 14

THE JIG SAWThe jig (or scroll) saw is the safest and

easiest power tool to operate. Anyone canlearn to operate it with a few minutes prac-tice. It is the ideal tool to teach youngstersthe principles of wood working.

The numerous features of a jig saw includeits ability to cut decorative, especially inside,curves. Blades are quickly changed for cut-ting all kinds of materials, including metal.Sabre files can be used for effortless filingoperations.

The jig saw runs slower and requires lesspower to operate than any other tool. It isadvisable to use a multiple step pulley onthe motor so speeds can be changed for vari-ous operations. As a rule speeds are reducedfor harder materials.

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The hold-down foot and blade guide arelowered to ride on work being sawed. Thisprevents the work from jumping on the upstroke of the blade. The built-in blower inupper plunger directs a stream of air on cut-ting area, clearing away sawdust from pat-tern line. Back edge of blade should ridein slot of blade guide.

The secret of efficient jig sawing is to feedthe work slowly. Don't force the work.Feed mostly with one hand. Guide workwith the other, resting it on table if possible.When cutting to a pattern you will find iteasier if you keep a smooth continuous feed-ing and twisting motion instead of a jerkystop and start movement.

Tilting table locks at anyangle. Note adjustable bladebacking guide under table.

FIGURE 15

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JIG SAW BLADES, SABER BLADES AND FILES

Blades which are held in both the upperand lower chucks are commonly known asfret and jeweler's blades. The jeweler'sblades are used for most operations; how-ever, always use the largest and thickestblade, with the coarsest teeth that will giveyou a clean cut and still allow for cutting thenecessary curves.

FIGURE 16 Fret, jig and saber blades.

In general, when cutting sharp curves usea thin, narrow blade, changing to the heavierblades wherever possible. When cuttingmetal use fine-tooth blades with as heavy abody as possible. (See Figure 20 under bandsaws.) Plastics should be cut with eitherwood or metal cutting blades. The width,thickness and number of teeth in the bladeswill depend on the type of plastics to be cut.

When mounting jig saw blade, tilt the sawtable, insert the blade through the hole in thetable, then place between the lower chucksand tighten screws. Turn the pulley byhand until the blade is at the top of thestroke. Pull down the upper shaft, insertblade in slot and tighten by means of set-screws. Caution: Be sure to turn pulley byhand, and check tension of saw blade beforeturning on motor.

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Sabre blades are used primarily for cuttingpierced work. They have a heavier bodythan most jeweler's blades and will give afaster cutting action. Holes in pierced workare put in with your drill press in the mostsuitable places with respect to your design.On inside of work it is very simple to jumpfrom one opening to another, thereby speed-ing up your operations. Sabre blades areapproximately one-half inch shorter thanjeweler's blades, and are mounted betweenthe lower chucks, as above, but are notfastened in the upper shaft.

Many techniques used for jig sawing arethe same as used in band sawing. See bandsaw instructions.

LONG CUTFIGURE 17

When work calls for twocuts, the short cut should

be made first.

SABER FILESIn order to use files in your jig saw it is

necessary to remove the lower chuck andthen insert the shank of the file in the holein the lower shaft and tighten by means ofsetscrews.

A • ̂CROSS SECTION OF SABER FILESSHOWS VARIOUS SHAPES FORALL KINDS OF FILING JOBS.

FIGURE 18

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FIGURE 19

THE BAND SAWIn the home workshop the ba.nd saw will

do bevel ripping, straight ripping and cross-cutting at angles from 90 to 45 degrees. Itwill handle curved work of almost any shapewhere the pattern is sawed through from sideto side of the stock. It will not handle in-side scroll work where the starting cut can-not be made from one edge of the material.This type work is for the jig saw.

The size of band saws is indicated by thedistance from frame to blade. Thus a 12"band saw would cut through the center of a24" board.

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The band saw gives a smooth, even cutbecause it gives a continuous downwardstroke. Operating the band saw is similarto the jig saw but easier in some respectsbecause there is no tendency for work tojump. Feed with an even, gentle pressure,not forcing faster than the blade cuts.

There are various width blades for differentcutting jobs. Naturally you use a narrowblade for sharp curves and a wider blade forstraight cuts or wide curves.

Follow these suggestions when choosing ablade: Choose one for the sharpest curve youintend to make. See selection chart below.Always use the widest blade that will do thejob. On straight cuts use your widest blade.

FIGURE 20

Chart shows minimum radius for each blade width.

FIGURE 21

Backtracking and pickupcuts often can be avoidedby boring holes in thework to allow for shifting

of the blade position. 1st CUT

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FIGURE 22

On straight ripping cuts,the left hand is held along-side the work and acts asa pivot. Right hand swings

the work to follow line.

flTANGENT

CUTS

f

FIGURE 23

Cut sharp curves with a series of tangentcuts. It is often more practical to turn andcut through waste stock rather than pullback. Sharp curves often may be cut easilyby first drilling a hole near the turn. Squarecorners are cut out by first cutting a radius,then returning to saw out corner from eachside. Get the feel of the blade with a fewpractice cuts. Don't force work against theblade in excess of the cutting capacity.

Short side of narrowgrooves must be nibbled.Technique is useful onmany jobs. It works bestwith a heavily set blade.

FIGURE 24

20

ii

Above, folding, or coiling, a band saw blade is easy ifyou know how. Grasp the blade as shown above and

twist slowly.

FOLDING BAND SAW BLADE

It is a simple matter to fold band sawblades into small spiral of thirds, if you followinstructions carefully. Avoid kinking blade.Always hold blade firmly and don't let ittwist in your hand while folding.

Teeth are toward you — position shownin illustration. Twist with arrows and keepfollowing through, gradually moving handscloser together, until blade flops into spiral.If you fail on the first try keep at it — sud-denly it will come to you. DO NOT KINKthe blade.

The folded blade makes aneat coil of thirds as

illustrated.

TILTING-ARBORBAND SAW

FIG. 27: Shows fitting-arbor band saw at 46° backwardtilt, 6° forward oncT900.

Toolkraft Corporation has taken several steps for-ward in developing the new tilting-arbor band saw.The revolutionary new Darra-James model #512 tiltsthe blade and not the table. This gives the operator alevel working surface as well as many other advantages.The counterbalanced upper frame tilts easily, allowingthe angle of cut to be varied while sawing. Bladeguides remain in constant adjustment through all anglesof tilt. Thus you can cut angles on circular work or varythe cutting angle as required on model boat making, etc.

Model #512 is one of the safest saws made. Bladeis completely enclosed front and rear. Spring tensionis instantly released for blade changing. All wheels areball bearing and rubber tired. Blade guides have brassside inserts and ball bearing blade-backing wheels.

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STOP FENCE

FIG. 28: It is easy to cut a curved bevel on the 512.

FIG. 29: Metal cuttingwith variable speed

attachment.

FIG. 30: To remove bladesimply push spring tension

knob.

Capacity of cut is 15" at 45° and 12" at 90°. Depthof cut is 9" at 45° and 7Vi" at 90°. Tilts to 46° back-ward and 7° forward.

Available accessories are rip fence, miter gauge,floor stand, variable speed attachment and assortedblades for cutting various metals, plastics, etc.

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TENSION ADJ.& BELT ALIGNMENT

FIGURE 31

THE BELT-DISC SANDERPower sanders save much time and effort

in the home workshop. Fresh-cut lumbercan be sanded smooth. Mitered, curvedand irregular lumber can be trued. A belt-disc sander has the advantage of handlingall kinds of sanding jobs with ease and accu-racy. Various types of sanding discs andbelts add to the versatility of this machine.

OPERATING THE SANDERSanding belt should not be too tight. There

should be about %" play in belt on back sideof machine. To check proper tension, placea straight edge lengthwise on the belt touch-ing the two drums on underside of machine. . . belt should be easily pushed in %" fromstraight edge.

For best results a light, firm pressureshould be used to hold work against the belt.If work is longer than the table, it should bestarted at one end and gradually pushed tothe other end.

Contour sanding, inside curves should bedone on end drum.

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FIGURE 32

Flexible belt sandingcan be done on backside of belt when in up-right position (Figure32). This is a good wayto sand gradual curvessuch as the outsidecurve on rockers. Keepthe work moving whilesanding to avoid burn.Tension of belt can beadjusted to suit curveof work.

Circular work should be held in a jig orfixture (Figure 34). Be sure that all sandingis done on the "downward" side of the disc.Hold the work lightly against the disc, andmove slowly back and forth to avoid burningthe wood or damaging the abrasive. Themitre gauge is very useful in all squaring,chamfering and angle sanding operations.In order to facilitate the sanding of workrequiring roughing and finishing operations,it is recommended that the user purchase anextra sanding disc for use with fine abrasivediscs.'

Be careful. Hold the work firmly so itmay not be driven from your hands allowingthem to hit sanding belt. For best resultsalways sand with the grain. If it becomesnecessary to sand against the grain, try tohold work so that grain is at a slight angle,and feed work with a little more care. Besure that the wood or other materials youwish to sand are thoroughly dry.

Sanding belt should rotate in the directionof arrow as indicated on the inside of belt.

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Avoid wearing loose clothing, longneckties. Keep sleeves rolled up. Ad-just motor so that pulleys on sander andmotor are in line.

Check setscrews in motor and drive shaftpulleys to see that they are tight at all times.

Maintain proper tension on "V" belt toprevent slippage. Too much tension willcause unnecessary wear on "V" belt andbearings.

Wear goggles or suitable eye shield whensanding metals.

Keep your sander clean — remove saw-dust regularly, especially before sandingmetal, as this will avoid any fire hazard.

To replace the abrasive on the sanding discfirst remove the old abrasive from the disc,then apply "Distic", water glass, or a heavyrubber cement. If necessary, use weights ondisc so that the abrasive will stick properlywithout wrinkles or high spots.

Do not put too much pressure on the work,as this tends to clog up the belt, therebydecreasing the life of the abrasive.

Never use belt dressings on drums.

TYPES OF BELTS AND DISCS

The abrasive used on your belt and discsander depends upon the work which youwish to sand. For most woodworking oper-ations on soft woods, garnet belts and discsare used. However, on hard woods, alu-minum oxide belts and discs are usuallypreferred.

Both aluminum oxide and silicon carbideare used for sanding metal.

Aluminum oxide is used for sanding metalsof high tensile strength, whereas silicon car-bide is recommended for metals of low tensilestrength.

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For miscellaneous work on glass, porcelain,tile, stone, composition and rubber, use sili-con carbide abrasive belts and discs.

When sanding plastics, either aluminumoxide or silicon carbide may be used.

The abrasives may have a paper back, acloth back or a combination of both. Thepaper-backed belts and discs are less expen-sive but do not stand up as well from a pro-duction standpoint as the slightly higher-priced cloth-backed abrasives. Since thework done on the sander belt is of a generalnature, it is usually best to use a (100-2/0)or (80-0) grit sander belt. The disc sanderis mostly used for edging operations andtherefore you should use a coarser abrasive,usually an (80-0) or (60-1/2) grit. Wherefine cabinet work is being done it is alwaysbest to use (120-3/0) or (100-2/0) for thefinal sanding operation. In general, abra-sives are classified as follows:

Fine: (150-4/0) (120-3/0) (100-2/0)Medium: (80-0) (60-1/2) (50-1)Coarse: (40-1-1/2) (36-2)

FIGURE 33Use either drum for sanding inside curves.

FIGURE 34Using a jig to sand

circular work.

THE

DRILL

PRESS

DEPTHSCALI

FIGURE 35

The drill press is a very versatile machineand can handle numerous operations otherthan drilling. With proper accessories youcan do shaping, mortising, sanding, routing,polishing, planing, and finishing.

DRILLING

Be sure that the drill runs true. Scoredor marred drill shanks will not cut a true hole.When drilling hard material with a large drilluse low speed. Small drills should be run athigher speeds and should be fed into the workwith great care. It is very desirable to havetwo sets of drills — one set for drilling steeland other hard materials — one set for drill-ing brass, aluminum, lead and other softmaterials.

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CUTTING FLUIDS

Cutting fluids in machining operations areused as —

(1) A Coolant — In production work, cool-ing both the tool and the work is usually themost important factor to consider.

(2) A Lubricant — (a) Cutting fluids areused to lubricate the contact surfaces be-tween the cutting tool and the work, whichreduces heat caused by friction and lessenstool wear, (b) To lubricate the chips andthe top surface of the tool as the chips arebeing removed from the work, (c) To pre-vent the chips from sticking.

(3) An Agent to Produce a Desired Finish— Cutting fluids, if properly selected, willimprove the finish of the machined surface.

RECOMMENDED CUTTING FLUIDS

Aluminumits Alloys

Bakelite, PlasticBrass, SoftBronzeCast IronCopperLucite, SlateMagnesiumMalleable IronMonel MetalSteel,

ManganeseSteel, Soft

Steel, StainlessSteel, Tool

Wrought Iron

Kerosene, Soluble OilDryDry, Soluble Oil, KeroseneSoluble Oil, Lard Oil, DryDry, Air Jet, Soluble OilSoluble OilDryLow Viscosity Neutral OilsDry, Soda WaterLard Oil, Soluble OilSoluble Oil, Sulphurized

Oil, Mineral Lard OilSoluble Oil, Mineral Lard

Oil, Sulphurized OilSulphurized Mineral OilSoluble Oil, Mineral Lard

Oil, Sulphurized OilSoluble Oil, Mineral Lard

Oil, Sulphurized Oil

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FIG. 36: Sanders for drill press.

SANDING

Drum sanders and rotary surface sandermounted to the drill press with a specialadapter. Remove the chuck and knurledcollar. Place adapter on the spindle andthen replace the knurled collar and tightensecurely. With these drum sanders the oper-ator can sand material of irregular sizes andshapes. The rotary surface sander is usedfor true surface sanding of woods, plasticsand metal finishing.

FIGURE 37Rotary wood planner.

PLANING AND PARALLELING

The multi-purpose rotary wood planer(Figure 37) can be used to plane boards upto 12 inches in width. It can also be usedfor routing, rabbeting and for panelingoperations.

ROUTING AND WOODCARVING

When using various types of router orwoodcarving bits it is best to replace thechuck with a special router adapter.

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FIG. 38Shoping fence.

SHAPINGIn order to turn your drill press into a

shaper it will be necessary to purchase ashaper table, a shaper fence, and a set ofshaping cutters. Drill press head may beinverted if desired. Shaper cutters aremounted to the drill press spindle with specialadapters. All types of shaping operationscan be done on your drill press, such as cut-ting moldings, tongue and groove flutes andbeads on either straight or irregular work.

DRILLINGSQUAREHOLES

FIGURE 39

Mort is ing a t t a c h m e n tmounted on drill press withchisels and bits for cutting

a mortise.

DRILLING SQUARE HOLES

A Darra-James mortising attachment con-verts your drill press so that you can cutclean, accurate mortise and tenon joints forchairs, tables, cabinets, windows, screens,doors, etc. In order to do mortising you willneed a set of hollow chisels and a set of bits.

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TAILSTOCK

FIGURE 40

THE LATHEWood turning on the lathe is the most

fascinating of all power tool operations. Itis amazing to see the interesting designs pos-sible with hardly any effort the first time youuse a lathe. Besides spinning beautiful ob-jects the lathe is a versatile utility tool. Itcan be adapted to boring, routing, sawing,polishing, sanding, etc.

ADJUSTING THE TOOL REST

To adjust the tool rest first loosen tool restpost clamp and set the top of the tool restapproximately }<s" above the center line ofyour work. Never set the top of the toolrest below the center line of the piece of woodbeing turned. Next line up the top edge ofthe tool rest parallel to the piece being turnedand about JxJ" away from the farthest pro-jecting edge of the stock. Do not try toadjust tool rest while the lathe is running.Be sure to turn work by hand, to make surethat it has sufficient clearance, and check allthe clamps and locking devices before turningon the electric power.

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"POSITION OF OPERATOR"Operator should stand in a natural position

in front of the lathe, with the left side of thebody turned slightly nearer the lathe thanthe right side. Operator should dress prop-erly to eliminate the possibility of longsleeves, neckties, long hair or other looseclothing getting caught in the revolvingstock.

Q © © © © ® 0 ©

FIGURE 41

WOOD TURNING TOOLSThe tools used for wood turning are: %" gouge chiselNo. 1, %" gouge chisel No. 2, 1" gouge chisel No. 3,'/2 " skew chisel No. 4, 1" skew chisel No. 5, '/z" roundnose chisel No. 6, Vi" spear point chisel No. 7, !/8"

parting tool No. 8.

TURNING OPERATION

When turning stock under 3" square, placethe "V" belt on the largest pulley on theheadstock. Run the lathe on this low speeduntil all roughing cuts have been made andthe stock is cylindrical in form. In generalall roughing cuts should be made at lowspeeds.

33

The round side of the gouge should rest onthe tool rest and should be turned or rolled alittle to the right, always holding the woodenhandle down. After the roughing cut hasbeen made be sure to readjust the toolrest so that it is Vs" away from the cyl-inder and tighten in this position.

The "parting tool" is used to cut narrowgrooves to serve as depth guides to facilitatethe turning of a true cylinder. The partingtool may also be used for squaring or cuttingoff the ends of the cylinder to the properlength. The parting tool should be heldwith the narrow edge on the tool rest withthe point of the tool above the center line.

The "round-nose chisel" is used for con-cave cutting. Place the round-nose chiselflat on the tool rest with the bevel side of thechisel down.

The "square-nose chisel" is used forsmoothing off the cylinder and making itperfectly straight just before the sandingoperation. Hold the chisel with the beveledside down.

The "diamond-point chisel" is generallyused for convex or bead cutting where it isnecessary to round off corners. The diamond-point chisel should be held with the beveledside resting on the tool rest.

The "skew" is used for smoothing thecylinder. Lay the large skew on tool restwith the cutting edge above the cylinder andat an angle of 60° to the surface of the cylin-der. To start the cut, draw the chisel backslowly towards you and raise the handle untilthe chisel begins to cut at a point approxi-mately J^" from the heel.

The skew may also be used for roundingoff corners.

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THE JOINTER

The jointer is used to plane lumber, cutrabbets or joint edges of lumber. The termjointer comes from the operation of makingstraight, smooth edges of two pieces of lum-ber so they can be glued together (or joined)to form table tops, etc. By extending apiece of lumber over the edge you can cut arabbet in one side of a board such as is usedfor door paneling. By tilting the fence youcan bevel the edge on any size work.

The jointer operates on the principle of arotary cutter revolving at high speed. Everyjointer has two adjustable tables, the frontor infeed and the rear table. The fronttable is set higher than the rear table thedepth of cut desired. Thus the piece of thelumber already cut rests on the rear tableafter it passes through the cutter.

OPERATION

The width of the cut is determined by thedistance from the end of the cutter knivesto the fence. Face planing or surfacing isthe most common function of the jointer.The depth of cut, in most cases, is deter-mined by the width of the board. A '32"cut will produce the best surface. On nar-row material the cut may be set deeperalthough care should be given to the type ofwood which operator is using. Where deepcuts are desired it is best to take several cutsuntil the full depth has been attained. Theboard should be fed through the guard to thecutter head with a smooth, slow feed. Bothhands should be placed on top of the board,the left hand pressing the board firmly downagainst the surface of the rear table, whilethe right hand exerts the feed pressure over

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FENCE LOCK CUTTER GUARD

REAR TABLEADJUSTMENT

FIG. 42: The jointer.

the front table and at the same time holdingthe board firmly against the fence. Whencutting boards over three feet in length, themost uniform cut will be maintained by sup-porting the board at table height after itleaves the rear table. Warped boards shouldbe cut on the concave side for best results.To avoid pitting or torn grain, operatorshould wherever possible determine whichway the grain emerges from the board. Theboard should be fed through the machinewith the grain pointing downward andtowards the front of the jointer. Unlikeother jointers, your Darra-James jointer hasthe fence attached to the rear table insteadof the front table.

SHARPENING THE KNIVESKnives should be honed occasionally with

a fine abrasive stone to retouch the edge. Itis not necessary to remove the cutter knivesout of the cutter head; simply put a woodenwedge between the cutter head and the tableso that it will hold the knife firmly and at theproper'angle. Adjust the front table so thatthe stone presses lightly against the fullwidth of the knife bevel.

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To remove the burr on the flat side of theknife, use a fine slip stone or a piece of emerycloth.

FIGURE 43Removing cutter head.

REMOVING AND RESETTING KNIVESCutter Head assembly may be removed frombase loosening screw No. 21.To remove knives for grinding or replace-ment, simply loosen Set Screws in cutter-head and then lift Knives and Chip Breakersout of the cutter head slots. Extreme careshould be exercised when reinstalling knives.First use a straightedge to see that bothtables are level. Insert knives and chipbreakers into slots in cutter head so that theknives project slightly above the surface ofthe tables, and the cutting edge of the knifetowards the front tables, then clamp lightlyby turning the three set screws. Next,place the straightedge across the two tablesand tap the knives with a piece of hard wooduntil each knife just touches the straight-edge at either end of the cutter head. Whenall three knives have been aligned in theabove manner, tighten the nine set screwssecurely.

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APPENDIXReputable power tool manufacturers in-

clude instruction manuals with each powertool on maintenance and operation of thetool. An explanation of some of the com-mon shop terms are listed below.A.C. AND D.C.

Alternating current and direct current.Alternating current is the one most generallyused. Direct current will most often befound in the form of 110 or 32-volt currenton farms which have their own generatingplants. Some of the older cities, such asNew York and Chicago, have direct currentin one part of the city and alternating inothers.ARBOR

The revolving spindle, line shaft, motorarbor, or the headstock of a lathe. The re-volving shaft to which saw blade, buffer,chucks, etc., are attached.A R M A T U R E

Rotating assembly on the inside of anelectric motor.BALL BEARINGS

Ball bearings, as their name implies, aresmall steel balls used as bearings. Theirpurpose is to reduce friction between movingsurfaces.BEARINGS

In general, the part which supports ashaft as it turns are the bearings. They areusually made of brass or bronze, and havethe appearance of a sleeve.BUSHING

Metallic linings for bearings, usually madeof relatively soft metal, such as bronze orbabbit. These bearings can be replacedwhen they become worn.

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BEVELINGGiving a slanting edge to a piece of wood.

C A L I B R A T E DGraduated; scaled for fine measurements.

C H A M F E R I N GBeveling one edge.

CHIP B R E A K E RA small piece of steel pressed against the

cutter blade in position. Also called the gibplate.CHIPPER

Cutter in the center of a dado saw whichcuts out the wood between the groovesformed by the outside cutters of the sawblade.CHUCK

Multiple clamps in one housing to holddrills, etc. Operates by geared key orknurled collar.COLLAR

Tlange which holds the wheel on a benchgrinder.COLLET CHUCK

Chuck designed to hold routing, mortisingand dovetail cutters; often used in connec-tion with drill press and flexible shaft. It isso designed that it gives a very solid grip,and very accurately centers the cutter.COUNTERSHAFT

Intermediate shaft used to transmit powerfrom the lineshaft or motor to the machin-ery. Sometimes called a jackshaft.CROSS CUT

To cut across the grain of wood.CUP CENTER

An attachment which fits into the tailstockof a lathe. The wood is mounted and turnson this center.

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CUTTER HEADThe part of a planer which holds the blade;

also called planer head and sometimes safetyhead.

DADO SAWA set of saws designed for cutting wide

grooves. Generally this term refers to a setof two outside cutters and a group of chip-pers.

DOVETAILINGA method of making joints in which a key-

stone bead is set into a keystone groove, insuch a way that it cannot pull out.FACE PLATE

A flat plate which attaches to the head-stock of a lathe.

FLUTINGMaking cuts on a spindle shaped piece of

wood, down the length of the piece.FOUR-STEP PULLEY

A pulley having four sets of grooves ofdifferent diameters so as to give four differentspeeds when used with a similar pulley onthe motor.

FRET SAW BLADEA blade similar to a jig saw blade, but

smaller for very delicate work.HANGERS

Bearing supports for a lineshaft.HEADSTOCK SPINDLE

The spindle in the headstock of a lathe.HEADSTOCK

Work is held between two parts of a lathe,the headstock and the tailstock. The head-stock is the power or driving end. The tail-stock is stationary and is called the dead end.

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IDLER PULLEYA pulley which does not convey power.

Used when it is desired to stop a machinewithout stopping the lineshaft, or to changethe direction in which the belt is traveling.INLAYING

Setting one or more pieces of wood intothe surface of another piece, generally forpurposes of design.JOINTING

Making a joint between two pieces ofmaterial, usually wood.K N U R L I N G

Raising and roughening of a metal surfacein an even pattern so as to give a good grip.LAMINATED

Made of several thin layers of materialglued together. When wood is laminated,the grain of one layer runs in the oppositedirection to that of the next. Wood is lam-inated in order to prevent warping and togive it increased strength. Plywood is lam-inated.MITER

A bevel cut on end of board for the purposeof making a joint.MITER GAUGE

Gauge used on a bench saw to guide lum-ber at the correct angle for mitering.MORTISING

Cutting a cavity in a piece of lumber forthe purpose of making a mortise-and-tenonjoint. Tongue and groove.

A mortise-and-tenon joint is made by cut-ting one or more cavities in one piece of woodand cutting a tongue or tenon on the end ofthe other pieces to fit into these cavities.The cavities are called mortises and the partswhich fit into them tenons.

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MOTOR BRACKETAttachment or base to hold a motor.

POLISHING HEADTool designed to hold various polishing

and grinding wheels. Similar to benchgrinder.PROTRACTOR

An angular scale gauge calibrated in de-grees. A protractor is used on the front endof a jointer to insure the correct angle of cut.REPULSION-INDUCTION MOTOR

A type of motor so designed that it devel-ops very high "starting torque".RIPPING

Sawing with the grain of wood, usuallylengthwise.R.P.M.

Revolutions per minute.SHAPING

Cutting a molding or fancy edge on a pieceof wood.SPINDLE

Any round rod. The term when used inconnection with machinery refers to a re-volving shaft, generally the heart of the tool,which in revolving carries the work or thecutting instrument.TOLERANCE

Allowance for inaccuracy. Accurate toolshave very small tolerances, less than .001or so.WOOD-TURNING

An operation performed on a lathe. Theword is derived from the fact that the piecebeing cut turns around while the stationarytool cuts it.

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