1 Round Rascals Sheep Crochet Pattern...Round Rascals Sheep Crochet Pattern R o u n d R as c al s S HE E P M i c h e l l e M o o r e D R A F T 1 T h e C r o c h e t C r o w d 2 STITCHES

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Round Rascals Sheep

Crochet Pattern

Round Rascals SHEEP Michelle Moore DRAFT 1 The Crochet Crowd

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STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS

SC SINGLE CROCHET

HDC HALF DOUBLE CROCHET

DC DOUBLE CROCHET

SC2 SINGLE CROCHET IN NEXT 2 STITCHES

2SC INCREASE – 2 STITCHES IN SAME STITCH

SC2tog DECREASE

SL ST SLIP STITCH

RND ROUND

Ch CHAIN

MC MAGIC CIRCLE

BL BACK LOOPS

FL FRONT LOOPS

ST STITCH

FO FASTEN OFF

RS RIGHT SIDE

WS WRONG SIDE

SK ST SKIP STITCH


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MATERIALS

4mm/G Hook (or smaller or larger, depending on how big you want your toy)

Red Heart Super Saver or other #4 Medium Worsted Weight yarn :

White: 110 yards

Beige: 80 yards

Small Amounts (10 yards): Black, Blue, Purple, Red, Green, Yellow

White Fluffy (Bernat Pipsqueak) Or Other textured yarn (16 yards)

Darning/Sewing Needle

Scissors

Stitch Markers

Pins

Polyfill Stuffing


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AMIGURUMI TIPS

● Secure your magic circle by pulling the starting tail tight and tying a knot. If you can’t do a magic circle, simply chain 2 and work the starting stitches in the 2nd chain from the hook.

● Amigurumi is worked in the round, which means instead of closing your circles with a slip stitch and a chain, you simply continue around in a spiral, with a stitch marker indicating the start of the next round.

● Carry your tails where possible, unless otherwise indicated.

● When the number is BEFORE the st, such as 2SC, that means you put that many sts in the SAME st (increase sts). When the number is AFTER the st, such as SC2, that means you SC in the next 2 sts (regular sts).

● Secure your sewing tails with knots before weaving them inside the amigurumi.

● Use pins when available, so you can visualize the placement of the pieces BEFORE you sew them on.

● Try to find a happy medium of stuffing fullness. Understuffing can leave your amigurumi looking floppy, but overstuffing can stretch the stitches and show the stuffing.

● Use invisible decrease on amigurumi as it makes smaller holes.

● Use a blunt-ended darning needle, not a sewing needle, to avoid injury.

● Starting tails need to be long enough to be hidden when necessary. It’s ALWAYS better to have extra length than not enough.

● Perfection is a myth. Happy accidents can happen and give amigurumi their own character. Just have fun!

● Did you know that if you use yarn under instead of yarn over, it will give you tighter and neater stitches on your amigurumi? It’s true!


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PIECES Eyeballs Pupils Eyelids

Snout Legs Tail

Bow ears eyelashes


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EYEBALLS (make 2) WITH WHITE: Rnd 1: 6SC in MC. (6) Place st marker. Rnd 2: 2SC in each st around. (12) Rnd 3: (SC, 2SC) repeat around. (18) Rnds 4-5: SC around. (18) Rnd 6: (SC, SC2tog) around. (12) LIGHTLY STUFF. Rnd 7: SC2tog around. (6) Sl st in next st to FO, leaving long tail for sewing the hole closed.

PUPILS (Make 2) WITH BLACK:

Rnd 1: 5SC in MC. (5) Sl st in next st to FO, leaving long tail for sewing.

EYELIDS (make 2) WITH BEIGE:

Rnd 1: 6SC in MC. (6) Place st marker. Rnd 2: 2SC in each st around. (12) Rnd 3: (SC, 2SC) repeat around. (18) Rnd 4: (SC2, 2SC) around. (24) Rnd 5: SC around. (24) Rnd 6: (SC2, SC2tog) around. (18) Sl st in next st to FO, leaving long tail for sewing.

TAIL WITH BEIGE:

Rnd 1: 6SC in MC. (6) Place st marker. Rnds 2-4: SC around. (6) Sl st in next st to FO, leaving long tail for sewing.


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SNOUT

WITH BEIGE:

Rnd 1: 6SC in MC. (6) Place st marker. Rnd 2: 2SC in each st around. (12) Rnd 3: (SC, 2SC) repeat around. (18) Rnd 4: (SC2, 2SC) around. (24) Rnd 5: (SC3, 2SC) around. (30) Rnd 6: (SC4, 2SC) around. (36) Rnds 7-10: SC around. (36) Rnd 11: (SC4, SC2tog) around. (30) Rnd 12: SC around. (30) Rnd 13: (SC3, SC2tog) around. (24) Rnds 14-15: SC around. (24) Sl st in next st to FO, leaving long tail for sewing.

LEGS (Make 4) WITH BEIGE:

Rnd 1: 6SC in MC. (6) Place st marker. Rnd 2: 2SC in each st around. (12) Rnds 3-10: SC around. (12) Sl st in next st to FO, leaving long tail for sewing.

BOW WITH PINK:

Rnd 1: 4SC in MC. Sl st in next st. (4) Rnd 2: *Ch2, 4DC in same st as ch, ch2, sl st into same st,* sl st in next 2 sts, repeat from * to *, sl st in last st, then FO, leaving a long tail. Wrap the tail around the middle of the bow 5 or 6 times. Pull tight and secure with a knot at the back.


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EARS (Make 2) WITH BEIGE:

Rnd 1: 6SC in MC. (6) Place st marker. Rnd 2: (SC, 2SC) repeat around. (9) Rnd 3: (SC2, 2SC) around. (12) Rnd 4: (SC3, 2SC) around. (15) Rnd 5: (SC4, 2SC) around. (18) Rnd 6: (SC5, 2SC) around. (21) Rnd 7: (SC6, 2SC) around. (24) Rnd 8-10: SC around. (24) Rnd 11: (SC6, SC2tog) around. (21) Rnd 12: SC around. (21) Rnd 13: (SC5, SC2tog) around. (18) Rnd 14: SC around. (18) Rnd 15: (SC, SC2tog) around. (12) Rnd 16: (SC, SC2tog) around. (8) Rnds 17-20: SC around. (8) Ch1, press/pinch the opening together, lining up 4 sts on each side and SC4 through both sets of sts to close the ear. FO, leaving long tail for sewing. Bend/curve the ear so that it puckers on the same side as the seam.

EYElashes (make 2) WITH BROWN:

Row 1: Ch9 (original ch), SC in 2nd ch from hook, *Ch3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, SC into next ch on the original ch*. Repeat from * to * 7 more times. There should be 8 single lashes on each piece. Sl st into the last ch to FO, leaving long tail for sewing. Weave the starting tails into the back of the eyelashes and trim off.


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FLOWER hexagons (make 15) WITH BROWN:

Rnd 1: 5SC in MC. (5) Sl st in next st to FO. **You are going to pretend there are 6 sts when you work the next row. You will work a st before the knot, and a st after the knot. By doing this, your starting circle is tighter and looks much neater after the next row is complete. WITH FLOWER COLORS (3 RED, 3 YELLOW, 3 BLUE, 3 ORANGE, 3 GREEN): Rnd 2: Join new yarn with a sl st in any st. Remember to carry all of your tails. You will now be making a flower as follows: YO, insert hook into same st as join and draw up a loop as high as you can, but keep things as loose and relaxed. Repeat this 3 more times, for a total of 4. Now, YO and pull your hook through all 4 loops. Ch2.*YO, insert hook into next st on Rnd 1, draw up a loop as high as you can, YO, insert hook into same st and draw up a loop. Repeat for a total of 4, YO, pull your hook through all 4 loops. Ch2. * Repeat from * to * 4 more times, for a total of 6 petals. Sl st into st at the top of the 1st petal. FO.


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WITH WHITE: Rnd 3: Join new yarn with a standing SC in the 1st ch2 space after where you FO on the previous rnd. SC, Ch1, SC2 in same ch2 space. SC in the next st at the top of the flower petal. *[(SC2, Ch1, SC2 in ch2 space), SC in top of petal]*. Repeat from * to * 4 more times, for a total of 6 sides. (30) **Please note: The Ch1 does not count as a st throughout**. Sl st loosely in next 2 sts. Sl st in next ch1 space to FO, leaving long tail approx. 24“ for sewing later. Trim off any tails at the back of the hexagon. If you forgot to carry some of the tails, be sure to tie them off before trimming. This will make sewing the pieces together easier.

PLAIN hexagons (make 5) WITH WHITE:

Rnd 1: 6SC in MC. (6) Place st marker. Rnd 2: 2SC in each st around. (12) Rnd 3: (SC, 2SC) repeat around. (18) Rnd 4: [(SC, HDC, SC in same st), SC2] around. (30) SC in next st, sl st in next st to FO, leaving long tail approx. 24“ for sewing later. This should bring the tail to a point on the hexagon.

PLAIN pentagons (make 1) WITH WHITE:

Rnd 1: 5SC in MC. (5) Place st marker. Rnd 2: 2SC in each st around. (10) Rnd 3: (SC, 2SC) repeat around. (15) Rnd 4: [(SC, HDC, SC in same st), SC2] around. (25) SC in next st, sl st in next st to FO, leaving long tail approx. 24“ for sewing later. This should bring the tail to a point on the pentagon. Mark the plain pentagon with a colored stitch marker, so it’s not confused with a plain hexagon.


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FLUFFY pentagons (make 11) WITH WHITE:

Rnd 1: 5SC in MC. (5) Place st marker. Rnd 2: In BL, 2SC in each st around. (10) Rnd 3: In BL, (SC, 2SC) repeat around. (15) Rnd 4: In BL, [(SC, HDC, SC in same st), SC2] around. (25) SC in next st, sl st in next st to FO, leaving long tail approx. 24“ for sewing later. This should bring the tail to a point on the pentagon. WITH FLUFFY YARN:

Join yarn with a standing SC in one of the FL of Rnd 2,close to the center of the hexagon. It doesn’t matter too much where you join. In FL, SC 12 around, following the spiral, so that you have crocheted a fluffy circle. Sl st in next FL to FO. Pull tails to the back of the pentagon with your hook. Tie them in a knot and trim off ends. This will make assembly easier.


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ASSEMBLY layout This is the layout for the sphere. The 5 plain hexagons and 1 plain pentagon at FRONT center are where you will eventually attach the face. If you haven’t already, trim the tails at the back of the hexagons and pentagons, leaving the long tails for sewing. You will be joining with either the Slip Stitch Method or the Hook Whipstitch Method, using the tails on the hexagons and pentagons, as well as attaching tail(s) where indicated. If you wish to use a different joining method, such as sewing it together, you are free to do so. Pay close attention to the instructions that follow on the next few pages. You may want to print this page as well, to use as a guide when joining the pieces together.

FRONT

1 Plain Pentagon

5 Plain Hexagons

5 Fluffy Pentagons

5 Flower Hexagons

BACK

6 Fluffy Pentagons

10 Flower Hexagons


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Joining methods

SLIP STITCH METHOD (Ridged Seam):

(This is the method I will be using for the Sheep).

With WS facing each other, line the corners and the sts up on each piece you are joining (5 sts each). When you count from right to left, the 5th st will always be the CORNER (either the HDC or the st before the Ch1 space.). If you aren’t sure you are lined up, find the CORNER st to the left and including that st, count back 5, from left to right, and st 1 will be where you insert your hook. Using the long tail to your right, insert your hook through both sts, grab the tail, draw it through with the hook, YO, and pull through the loop (counts as a sl st). Now sl st 4 across to the next corner. You may want to use stitch markers to join the corners as you go.

HOOK WHIPSTITCH METHOD (Flat Seam):

With WS facing each other, line the corners and the sts up on each piece you are joining. Using the long tail to your right, insert your hook through both sts, grab the tail, and draw it all the way through with the hook. Insert your hook through the next 2 sts, YO, and pull it all the way through. Do this 3 more times until you reach the corner. When you count, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, the 5th st will always be the CORNER (either the HDC or the st before the Ch1 space). You may want to use stitch markers to join the corners as you go, as illustrated above.


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JOINING THE FRONT PIECES TOGETHER

**Important: ALL pieces should be placed with the tail at the right-hand corner, next to the joining round, so you can join pieces from right to left.**

**It may be easier to join the pieces individually, one at a time, rather than pinning them all together at once. Just keep in mind the layout. That is why it was suggested that you print the diagram page.**

ROUND 1:

Lay the first 6 pieces together with the tails to the right-hand side.

There should be a PLAIN PENTAGON in the middle and 5 PLAIN HEXAGONS on each side of the pentagon. Using the tail on the PLAIN PENTAGON, join each PLAIN HEXAGON to the PLAIN PENTAGON and then FO.

ROUND 2:

Now take 5 FLUFFY PENTAGONS, and place them between each PLAIN HEXAGON, with the tails pointing inward at center. Using the long tail of each PLAIN HEXAGON, join the PLAIN HEXAGONS together up the middle, and then join the FLUFFY PENTAGON across to the left (with the same tail). FO. Then use the tail of each FLUFFY PENTAGON, and join across to the right. FO.


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ROUND 3:

You will notice in this round that the ball will start to curve as you join. Take 5 FLOWER HEXAGONS, and place each between the FLUFFY PENTAGONS, with the FLOWER HEXAGON tails to the bottom right (when looking out from center). Using the long tail of each FLOWER HEXAGON, join the FLOWER HEXAGON across the top of the FLOWER HEXAGON, and then join the FLUFFY PENTAGON across to the left (with the same tail). FO. Then use the tail of each FLOWER HEXAGON, and join across to the right. FO. If any of the pieces are “bunched” at the seam, you may have made a mistake joining. It should look EXACTLY as shown. Weave all tails into the back of the FRONT piece of the ball. If necessary, use tails to close up any holes at the joins. Then weave them in and trim them off.


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JOINING THE BACK PIECES TOGETHER

**Important: ALL pieces should be placed with the tail at the right-hand corner, next to the joining round, so you can join pieces from right to left.**

**It may be easier to join the pieces individually, one at a time, rather than pinning them all together at once. Just keep in mind the layout. That is why it was suggested that you print the diagram page.**

ROUND 1:

There should be a FLUFFY PENTAGON in the middle and 5 FLOWER HEXAGONS on each side of the pentagon. Using the tail on the FLUFFY PENTAGON, join each FLOWER HEXAGON to the FLUFFY PENTAGON and then FO.

ROUND 2:

Now take 5 FLUFFY PENTAGONS, and place them between each FLOWER HEXAGON, with the tails at the center point. Using the long tail of each FLOWER HEXAGON, join the FLOWER HEXAGONS together up the middle, and then join the FLUFFY PENTAGON across to the left (with the same tail). FO. Then use the tail of each FLUFFY PENTAGON, and join across to the right. FO.


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ROUND 3:

You will notice in this round that the ball will start to curve as you join. Take the next 5 FLOWER HEXAGONS, and place each between the FLUFFY PENTAGONS, with the FLOWER HEXAGON tails to the bottom right (when looking out from center). Using the long tail of each FLOWER HEXAGON, join the FLOWER HEXAGON across the top of the PLAIN HEXAGON, and then join the FLUFFY PENTAGON across to the left (with the same tail). FO. Then use the tail of each PLAIN HEXAGON, and join across to the right. FO. If any of the pieces are “bunched” at the seam, you may have made a mistake joining. It should look EXACTLY as shown. Weave all tails into the back of the FRONT piece of the ball. If necessary, use tails to close up any holes at the joins. Then weave them in and trim them off.


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JOINING THE FRONT & BACK PIECES TOGETHER Lightly stuff each half of the ball. Attach a long piece of yarn, approx. 10 ft for joining the pieces together. (If you are using the Hook Whipstitch Method, you may want to use 2 – 5ft pieces, as it won’t be quite so long to pull through the sts.) Line each half up and begin joining together. You will notice the flower hexagons and the fluffy pentagons line up with each other. Go ahead and use stitch markers or pins to secure the pieces if necessary, at the corners. When you join about 2/3 of the way around, begin to stuff more firmly. When you only have 2 seams left to close the ball, finish stuffing firmly. Secure your tails and weave them inside of the ball.


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turn your ball into a sheep

SNOUT:

With a long piece of brown yarn, stitch on a nose (you can get creative with the nose, mouth, cheeks, or whatever you can imagine!). Stuff the snout firmly. With the plain pentagon and hexagons facing you, turn the ball so that a fluffy hexagon is on top. Line the snout up with the middle pentagon, ensuring that the nose is straight. Pin in place, if necessary, and using the long tail, whipstitch the snout to the ball, through the ridge around the middle pentagon. Secure the tail and weave it into the ball.

EYES:

With the front of the eyeballs facing you, line up the pupils so that they are centered over the middle rnd. Using the long tails, whipstitch the pupils to the eyeballs, secure your tails and weave them in. Insert the eyeballs into the eyelids so that the pupils are centered. Using the long tail on the eyelids, whipstitch the eyelids to the eyeballs, through 8 FL on the bottom of the eyelid. Secure tail with a knot, then weave directly through the backs of the eyelids and out below the 3rd rnds. Line the first eyeball up on one side of the snout, but not going past the middle seam. Whipstitch through the snout and the 3rd rnd of the eyeball from underneath, approx. 5 sts. This will be tricky, but manageable if you do it loosely. When you go across the bottom of the eyelid and reach the middle seam, pull tight on the tail. Secure the tail but do not weave it in.


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Repeat for the other side. Secure that tail and then weave it back up to the middle where the other tail is. Tie the tails together, then use one tail to sew up the middle of the eyelids to join them. Secure the tail, then weave in the ends. Squish your eyes into place.

EYELASHES:

Line the eyelashes up at the top of the eyelids, with the RS facing out toward you. Pin in place, if necessary. Using the long tail, whipstitch through the BLs of the eyelids and the chs along the bottom of the eyelashes. Secure the tails and weave the tails into the eyeballs. You should be able to pose the eyelashes to change the mood of your sheep.

EARS:

Take the ears, with the puckers facing out, and line them up behind the eyelids, tucked down towards the bottom. The seams should be lined up with the middle of the back of the eyelids. Using the long tails, sew the ears to the back of the eyelids. Secure your tails and weave them into the ears.


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LEGS:

Lightly stuff the legs. Line the front legs up on either side of the flower hexagon beneath the snout (at center). Line the back legs up on either side of the fluffy pentagon at the center. Pin in place if necessary and whipstitch the legs to the ball. Do not secure the tails until you are happy with the placement and the sheep can stand on its own.

TAIL:

Pinch the tail flat and line it up just above the fluffy pentagon at the “rear” of the sheep. Using the long tail, sew it to the ball. Secure your tail and weave it in.

BOW:

Line the bow up just above the tail and sew it in place using the long tail. Secure the tail and weave the tail into the back of the bow.

Congrats! You are finished your sheep!


Documents

1 Round Rascals Sheep Crochet Pattern...Round Rascals Sheep Crochet Pattern R o u n d R as c al s S HE E P M i c h e l l e M o o r e D R A F T 1 T h e C r o c h e t C r o w d 2 STITCHES