K04 How-To

1. Jack the Car Up: Not too high or otherwise you will not establish a good ergonomic

standard and will experience back pain, etc. etc.

2. Remove Engine Cover

3. Drain Oil (Go ahead and swap filters too)

4. Remove Passenger Front Wheel: I went ahead and just removed both.

5. Remove the Intake: I cannot give accurate pictures of the stock uninstall because I

purchased the vehicle with a BSH stage 1 and 2.

6. Disconnect Battery (10mm)

7. Disconnect Battery Tie Down (13mm) To the left and at the bottom of the battery

8. Remove Battery and place it in a safe place to the side.

9. Remove Battery Tray (3 x 10mm)

10. Remove Passenger Splash Shield (T25): Make sure you bag these up and label them.

11. Remove Heat Shield

a. Remove (6mm Allen) Plug located towards the bottom driver’s side. I used a

regular Allen key with a 6mm socket screwdriver attachment as a breaker bar

b. Remove (2 x M10 XZN) Bolts holding heat shield to block

c. Remove (M8 XZN) bolt on top of heat shield that holds various lines and

intake tubing mount. (Watch out, there is a nut underneath)

d. Remove (2 x T30) bolts holding the multiple lines to the block. One is

located on the driver’s side by the fuel pump and the other by the turbo inlet

on the block.

T30 underneath the

T30 on top. NOT the

circled Bolt

e. Unclip Vacuum line and remove from block

f. Move lines up and away from the heat shield onto the top of the block. I used

a zip tie to hold these back. Remove Heat Shield

12. Remove Downpipe: Seeing as though there are many threads for this, I will still

include the steps. Please refer to this thread made by Plac:

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25392

a. Remove Passenger Side underbody tray (T25)

b. Pull O2 Sensor off of underbody stud bracket

c. Unplug Harness from bracket (This will help later for uninstall/install)

d. Remove Cross Member support brackets (13mm)

e. Loosen Sleeve Clamp to CBE (16mm)

f. Remove CV Heat Shield (16mm open end)

g. Remove DP Flange Nuts: Tricky, but doable. (16mm and PB Blaster)

However, your kit includes studs and nuts, so you shouldn’t have to worry

about ease of uninstall

h. Remove Downpipe Bracket (13mm)

i. Remove DP

13. Swap O2 Sensors at this time to your new OEM DP (Or not, if you’re using stock

hardware) (22mm or 7/8” Combination Wrench)

14. Remove Pancake Pipe (2 x T30) Undo Hose Clamps and the two bolts holding it to

the block

15. Disconnect DV and N75 Connectors. Its best to push IN the connector then pull the

tab, that way the pressure can be lifted off the tab.

16. Cover Front Sub-frame with towel. I managed to drop a few washers and tool bits in

there and had to fish them out with my magnetic hook. Pain in the ass.

TIME: 2.25 Hours

PICTURE WAS PULLED FROM GOLFMKV.COM

Time to remove the turbo and all of its components. It would probably be a good time to

take a small break and grab a coke. This next part is tricky and time consuming. Having a

friend would help, but I did it by myself so it wasn’t impossible. Plus, there is really only

room for one hand.

17. Remove the Turbo Support bracket: (2 x M10 XZN) Rear bolt is EXTREMELY close

to the axle, you might need to have short (M10 XZN) to access this. I used the XZN

bits from AutoZone cut off and (1/2” Combination Wrench)

18. Remove upper section of turbo support bracket: (6mm Allen) Place bracket to the

side. Nut is welded on, so don’t worry about it falling.

19. Remove Coolant Return at the Turbo: (Short M12 XZN + 1/2” Combination

Wrench) Just like the turbo support bracket; you should have plenty of clearance.

20. Disconnect Oil Return on the bottom of the turbo: (2 x M8 XZN) The picture isn’t

very good, but you WILL be able to reach it. It might benefit to have a longer M8

XZN. The view is looking UP from underneath on your back after you have rolled in

from the front of the car.

21. Remove Oil Supply Line Bracket Under DV: (M8 XZN)

22. Disconnect Coil Packs and route harness to the other side of the engine bay

23. Disconnect Oil Supply Line on top of the turbo (M12 XZN): Push to the back and out

of the way

24. Disconnect Coolant Supply Hose (Channel Locks or Vice Grips): Just undo the clip

and pull the hose off the hard piping. Route it out of the way.

PICTURE WAS PULLED FROM GOLFMKV.COM

25. Remove Turbo (5 x 13mm) Nuts: Some studs might come out, just be sure to

chuck these up and remove the nuts and place them back into the block. None of my

studs came out and I have around 40K on my vehicle. Picture is from the backside of

the manifold

26. To lift the turbo out, pull manifold away from block studs and angle the turbine side

upward and wiggle it out of the top. It took me a little bit, but I found the

compressor outlet was hitting the block. Once I got it free from the block, the turbo

was MUCH easier pulling out from the top.

TIME: 1.5 Hours

PICTURE WAS PULLED FROM GOLFMKV.COM

Awesome Job. Now that you have the turbo out, pat yourself on the back and take another

break, or continue on. The rest is simple, but you must make sure you are aware of what

you’re doing, because you could be in for a headache if you mess something up.

27. Assemble DV (Purchase a REV D valve!) to K04 per APR’s instructions (3 x 5mm

Allen + lock washers). Make sure they’re snug.

28. Swap (6mm Allen) Coolant Plug per APR’s instructions. Torque to 38-40ft-lbs Plug

Location was triple confirmed by APR’s service department.

29. Swap Coolant Supply line from IHI to K04. BE SURE to follow APR’s instructions for

washer placement. DO NOT put the thicker washer on the coolant line you are

currently swapping. This washer is for the firewall side line. I made the mistake and

reinstalled everything and had to pull the turbo a second time to swap them out.

Torque to 20NM (18.5ft-lbs) + 45* (You will not be using the 8XZN bolt from the

bracket.)

30. Swap Vacuum Line from IHI to K04. Be sure to use Oetiker clamps provided. (I used

a small pair of nippers to clamp). The line had a little play in it so I wrapped some

high temp electrical tape around it to provide adequate clamping force. That might

not be needed for other installs.

Mount here in

the same

orientation

Remove this Line

PICTURE WAS PULLED FROM GOLFMKV.COM

PICTURE WAS PULLED FROM GOLFMKV.COM

31. Install Downpipe Studs provided in the kit. Be sure the smaller end is installed into

the flange. Don’t destroy the threads, but make sure they’re snug. You will torque

these later

32. Install APR Supplier Silicone Connector at the same angle as the Stock Turbo’s

compressor outlet. This will help later.

TIME: 45mins

PICTURE WAS PULLED FROM GOLFMKV.COM

Now you’re ready for the full install. Make sure the engine bay is free from wires,

connectors, lines, etc. etc. You’ll need as much clearance as you can and plenty of hand

room. I have smaller hands and I don’t know the variation between big hands and small

hands when installing the turbo.

33. Install K04. It would be wise to angle the compressor down first for easier fitment.

Make sure you’re aware of the silicone adapter. You might need to go underneath

and guide it away from the block. Once that is situated the turbo should just slide

into place. Make sure you place the turbo into the Vblocks on the engine. Basically

when I was aligning the holes to their studs, the manifold sort of slipped into the

blocks naturally. Be sure in install the gasket the same orientation as the IHI (Tab

faces driver’s side)

34. Hand tighten manifold nuts on the studs

35. Taken from GolfMKV: “When torque-ing the turbo to the head, there is a very

specific sequence to follow. Let's label the nuts 1 thru 5, starting from the passenger

side. The sequence to tighten them is: 1, 3, 5, 4, 2. You have to make five passes in

that exact sequence. The first four passes will increase torque each time, starting

with 5 Nm, 12 Nm, 16 Nm, and then 25 Nm. The fifth pass should be made at 25

Nm again, to verify nothing has changed. If you get any rotation on the fifth pass,

make another at 25 Nm until the nuts don't rotate.” I believe this is the Service

Manual process. (13mm)

36. Install Oil Feed line to the top of the turbo. Don’t forget to use new washers on

either side of the banjo bolt. (M12 XZN) (20NM + 45*)

37. Install Oil Return Line. Don’t forget to use the new gasket. (2 x M8 XZN) (Torque:

9NM)

38. Install Coolant Return Line. Don’t forget to use new washers on either side of the

banjo bolt. (Short M12 XZN + 1/2” Combination Wrench) Tighten the bolt well.

39. Install Coolant Feed Line onto the hard piping to the left of the block. I would make

sure the clip is facing in a convenient location

40. Install Turbo Support Bracket

41. Install Pancake Pipe

42. Reinstall Heat shield

43. Install vacuum line to block

44. Install lines onto heat shield

45. Connect DV and N75 connectors

46. DO NOT CONNECT COIL PACKS YET

47. Install downpipe per APR’s directions (or other vendor)

48. Install splash shield

49. Install battery

50. Install Intake

51. Install Battery (tie down and connectors)

52. Install Passenger Fender liner

53. Install Passenger Wheel (90ft-lbs)

54. Check work and make sure everything is snugged up

55. Fill Oil

56. Check EVERYTHING again

57. With the coil packs still unset, turn the engine over to allow the oil to recirculate into

the turbo and throughout the system for about 30secs. Since the coil packs aren’t

connected, no spark will be delivered to the chamber and the system will not turn

over.

58. Connect coil packs

59. Leave ECU in stock mode and crank the car up. Let the car idle and run for a few

minutes

60. Check for Leaks

61. Shut the car off and fill 50/50 Mix of coolant to appropriate level.

62. Go for a test drive. Do not go crazy. You’re basically just checking whether or not

you broke something or you missed installing a part.

63. Check for leaks again

64. Troubleshoot if needed

65. Reinstall engine cover

66. Place your ECU in tune mode and go have fun!!

TIME: 3.5 Hours

Ideal FULL PROJECT TIME: 9 Hours

Realistic FULL PROJECT TIME: 2 x 12Hour days. I ran into some issues but would

suggest 2 full days for this.

DISCLAIMER: I’m in no way responsible for any issues you run into modding your

car. Work on your car at your own RISK. PM if needed. I will be happy to answer

questions. Also, for a second DIY to look at, check:

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140633