05 Step by Step Guide to Golf Club Assembly for the Absolute Beginner

Step by Step Guide to Golf Club Assembly for the Absolute Beginner

Step by Step Guide to Golf Club Assembly for the Absolute Beginner All Rights Reserved 12

3-7: Abrade the shaft using a piece of sandpaper, usually 180 grit. Or if you have a little bit of a budget purchase yourself a sanding machine.

3-8: You should be just scoring the outside coating. This is done for the epoxy to have a good solid bonding surface.

3-9: When dealing with graphite shafts its a good idea to countersink the top of the hosel. This will allow epoxy to fill this area for extra cushion. It has been known for the tip of a graphite shaft to break at this point due to the stress applied from the sharp edge of the top inside hosel.

3-10: This is a picture of a hosel that has been countersunk.

3-11: To abrade a graphite shaft it is a good practice to use a utility knife. Place the knife horizontal and score down gently not to disturb the fibers. You only want to take the coating off. This will provide a good bonding surface for the epoxy.

3-12: If the iron you are assembling have a square top hosel then a ferrule is recommended. If your club head is rounded at the top of the hosel then a ferrule is not needed. This is a picture of both types. The hosel to the right is rounded and the one to the left is square.

NOTE: A ferrules job has two functions, one is to provide a smooth transition from the bigger hosel diameter to the smaller diameter of the shafts tip, and two is to keep the dirt and dust out of the hosel so it doesnt affect the integrity of the epoxy.



3-13: More than likely the ferrule your installing is going to be tight fitting. You may need to use some acetone to help lubricate it. Simply take the ferrule place it in the spout of the can and place your finger over the end and tilt upside down for a few seconds to get the inside of the ferrule nice and wet with acetone.

3-14: Slide the ferrule over the shaft far enough so the shaft will fit all the way down in the hosel. This will allow the ferrule to be out of the way when dealing with the epoxy.

3-15: Now its time to mix up the two part epoxy.

3-16: Start by mixing the two-part epoxy evenly. This will create a good reaction and provide a good adhesive for the metal to bond to.

3-17: When finished mixing dip the tip of the shaft in while turning it to get a good amount on the tip.

3-18: Install the shaft into the hosel turning as you move up and down. This allows the epoxy to evenly coat the entire tip.

3-19: Wipe any excess epoxy off the hosel and ferrule. Make sure you get it all, as it will be harder to get off later after its cured. Allow to cure for 24 hours.

3-20: At this point the ferrule will probably be bigger than the hosel. Wrap some masking tape around the hosel and shaft to protect them while you file.

3-21: File the ferrule so its flush with the tape. Make sure to go around the ferrule evenly so you dont create big flat spots.



3-22: When finished filing sand the flat spots down using 180 grit sandpaper.

3-23: Filing and sanding will make the ferrule look dull, but dont be alarmed we will fix that in a minute. For now take some steel wool (000) and smooth out any remaining scratches or flat spots that may be left.

3-24: You can now remove the tape. Take some acetone on a paper towel and wipe the ferrule down to bring back the shine.

Now lets cut the club to length. Getting Closer!

3-25: Place the club in its proper resting position (sole of the club on the ground). Place the ruler behind it so that it touches the ground right behind the heel.

3-26: Mark the shaft to the final length. 3-27: Use a tube cutter to cut the shaft at the desired point.

NOTE: Refer to section 9 for tables on standard final club lengths. Now, on to installing grips.



3-28: Place the shaft into the vise (using rubber clamps) with the face of the club pointed vertically upward.

Note: You will need to use some type of catching device for the excess solvent.

3-29: Place the grip next to the butt end of the shaft to get an idea of where you want the tape to end. Remember to allow 1/8 at the end for the grip cap.

3-30: Mark a line where the grip will start.

3-31: Using your double-sided tape place two pieces opposite of each other to get a good coating of tape around the entire diameter of the shaft.

3-32: Remember to extend the tape beyond the butt end by about a inch. This will not allow solvent to get inside the shaft when installing the grip.

3-33: Tuck the extended tape into the butt end of the shaft.

3-34: Once you have affixed the tape to the shaft, go ahead and coat the inside of the shaft with solvent by placing your finger over the hole thats in the butt end of the grip. This will stop any solvent from leaking out.

3-35: Pour the solvent inside the grip to of the way.

3-36: Squeeze the open end of the grip with your other hand and shake. This is done to coat the inside of the grip thoroughly.



3-37: Pour the solvent from the inside of the grip onto the taped section of the shaft. Note: Its a good idea to have something in place to catch the excess solvent. You can reuse the solvent if desired.

3-38: Take the tool provided and insert it onto the small end (fingers) about 1/3 of the way up.

3-39: Take the big end of the tool and slide it over the shaft. At the same time you may have to twist a little to get it started.

3-38: Once you have the grip started onto the shaft, simply pull the tool out from the grip and finish pushing the grip on. You can do this by pushing at both ends of the grip.

3-39: Once you have it on all the way, you only have about 3 minutes to align the letters or logo on the grip with the leading edge of the face before the tape and solvent set enough you cant work the grip. Allow the grip to set for at least 24 hours.

3-40: Apply the shaft band if one is available. When applying the shaft band make sure its also in line with the grips letters or logos, and the leading edge of the face.

Congratulations, you have just built your first club! Make sure to clean the metal real good before attempting to sell. Make it look like one of a kind.



Section 4 Tip Trimming

Lets go over the 3 different kinds of golf shafts that there are. This will give you a better

understanding of what you are doing when it comes to trimming the tip. The 3 types of shafts are

Parallel Tip Steel Shaft, Taper Tip Steel Shaft, and Graphite Shaft.

4-1: This is a diagram of the two different steel golf shafts and their parts. You will notice that the tapered tip shaft differs from the parallel tip shaft by; yep you guessed it, the tip and the tips diameter.

Parallel Tip Steel Shaft:

The parallel tip shaft has no diameter change from the tip to the first step. This allows the tip to be

trimmed for final club length, as the number of club gets shorter. The parallel tip shafts are a tad bit

lighter than tapered tip shafts and usually come in a .370 diameter tip.

Tapered Tip Steel Shaft:

The tapered tip golf shaft will usually get abraded and get installed directly into the club heads hosel

and then butt trimmed to length. The tip of the tapered shaft will usually come in a .355 diameter

size. The tapered tip shaft does however change size from the tip to the first step by usually 7

thousandths of an inch per inch up the tip end to the first step.

NOTE: All shafts come with easy to understand tip-trimming instructions.

Butt end of the shaft where the grip gets installed. This is where the butt end diameter gets measured.

Butt Diameter

Step Length First Step

Parallel Tip Shaft.

No Tip Diameter Change

Tapered Tip Shaft.

Tip Diameter Change



Graphite Shaft:

Graphite shafts are easy to understand, as they will come with their own discrete trimming

instructions for the different club numbers and flexs. They also do not change diameter size by step

increments.

Here are a couple of tips to before getting started with the actual tip trimming instructions.

Always butt trim club to final length after you tip trim and install the club.

Tapered tip shafts never should be tip trimmed because they come in discrete lengths according to the club number.

Lets move on to tip trimming a shaft. Lets say I have a 60-degree wedge club head with a hosel bore

ID of .370. I should have a parallel tip shaft with a .370 shaft tip or .355 if its a tapered tip shaft. I

have chosen a parallel tip shaft so I can show you the tip trimming steps.

This is an example of what you may find on a dealers or manufacturers website on tip trimming instructions for parallel shafts. Notice that for a wedge you must trim 4 of the tip for either of the three flex specifications.

Flex #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 WedgesR300 0 1/2 1 1 1/2 2 2 1/2 3 3 1/2 4 4 1/4

S300 0 1/2 1 1 1/2 2 2 1/2 3 3 1/2 4 4 1/4

X100 0 1/2 1 1 1/2 2 2 1/2 3 3 1/2 4 4 1/4

4-2: When you ordered your golf shaft you should have ordered it to fit into an iron club head and if you ordered a parallel tip shaft it should be .370 tip diameter. You will be able to tell by the description in the catalog or over the web. Notice the two highlighted circles, which indicate a .370 tip, and some other vital information.

This picture is out of a reputable companys catalog.

4-3: Look at the trimming instructions that came with your golf shaft. You should see a tip trimming measurement for the club youre assembling.

Note: You can also get this information on the manufacturers website.

One more thing to notice is the different flex of the shafts R, S, and X. These will tip trim the same because the stiffness is built into the golf shaft itself. When you order the shaft you will need to specify the flex you desire.

Looking at iron shafts.



NOTE: Each shaft will come with tip trimming instructions. Always remember that you can get the

information needed from the manufacturers website. Take a look, hop onto a known shaft

manufacturers website and find the tip trimming instructions for their shaft types. You should find

the tip trimming instructions under the technical area of the website.

Lets look at what we have so far. We now have a parallel tip shaft made for an iron club with a .370 tip diameter. We also know that we have to tip trim 4 of the tip for the wedge. Lets move on to the actual tip trimming.

4-4: Once you have your tip trimming instructions, measure up the shaft from the tip (in this case its 4 ) and mark a line with a felt tip marker.

4-5: Once you have the mark, go ahead and cut the shaft using a plumbers pipe cutter.

Note: When putting your components in a vise its highly recommended that you use rubber clamps. This will eliminate any scratching or denting caused by the metal jaws of the vise.

4-6: File any sharp edges that the tube cutter left.

4-7: When measuring a graphite shaft, measure up the shaft and wrap 2 layers of masking tape around the area to be cut. This will eliminate damage to the fibers from the cutting process.

4-8: This is a picture of what damaged fibers look like on a graphite shaft. This voids the warranty and damages the integrity of the shafts performance.

4-8: Use a hacksaw blade to cut through the tape and then the graphite.



Lets talk about the flex of a golf shaft. There are five ratings for shaft flex:

1. Extra Stiff = X

2. Stiff = S

3. Regular = R

4. Senior = A

5. Ladies = L

The flex of a shaft can affect a couple of important things in the golf swing, accuracy, trajectory, and

distance.

When tip trimming your golf shafts keep in mind that if you mistakenly trim your shafts incorrectly it

will affect the shafts flex. For example lets say you are suppose to take 3 off the tip and you take 4

you have just changed your shafts flex to a stiffer flex. If you tip trim a tapered tip shaft, it may not

fit into the hosel therefore it will cause you to drill the bore out slightly bigger to accept the bigger

diameter of the shafts tip.

So tip trimming is important!

Always measure twice and cut once.

Always follow the suggested manufacturers instructions.

Hope this helps in the shaft tip trimming area.

Lets talk real quick on how the bore types of iron club heads will affect the tip trimming instructions.

Most shaft manufacturers base their trimming instructions on standard bore types. A standard bore

type is a bore of an iron club head hosel that bottoms out at 1 from the curved part of the heel.

There is another bore type that bottoms out around 1/4 from the curved part of the heel and this is

called a through bore. If dealing with a through bore you will need to trim less then what the tip

trimming instructions call for. So its a good idea to always know what bore type you are dealing

with. See figure 4-9 for measuring bore type and figure 4-10 for tip trimming instructions.



4-9: This picture illustrates how to determine what type of bore you have. This would be a standard bore.

4-10: This picture illustrates how to determine what type of bore you have. This would be a through bore.

So lets say the instructions call for you to tip trim 3. This is for a standard bore. Now lets say you

have a through bore, you would now tip trim 2 to keep the same flex as you would with a 3 tip

trim. The further down the hosel bore the shaft goes the stiffer the flex is.

4-11: Follow these instructions to determine what type of bore you are dealing with.

Measure hosel length and the bore depth.

Now take your hosel length minus your bore depth and you will get the back of heel to shafts tip dimension.

1

1

1/4

2 1/4

Hosel Length

Bore Depth

?



Section 5 Measuring Loft & Lie

First lets talk about loft and how it pertains to the iron club. The loft is responsible for the trajectory

of the golf ball as the club head strikes it. The trajectory is simply how high or low the golf balls

flight path is.

Iron clubs are not measured in the same way that wood clubs are. One reason for this is the sole

design. The sole designs of iron clubs come in many shapes and sizes so the constantly of the sole

from club to club gets thrown out the window.

To properly measure an iron club heads loft you simply take the degree from the centerline of the

hosel to the face. Figure 5-1 shows how this is done.

5-1: This picture illustrates how to properly measure the loft of an iron club head.

Unfortunately is quite hard to measure loft with a common protractor. Although you can get close it

will most likely not be the exact measurement of loft. There are however special measuring tools that

can be bought for measuring loft and lie, and these may be expensive. I would suggest that you

assemble a few clubs before going out and purchasing one of these machines. The cost of these

machines can be from $150.00 to $800.00.

90 Degree

Sole Line

Ground Line

Degree of Loft



Lets measure a few clubs using a protractor.

5-2: Most protractors will have a hole in the center of the 90-degree area on the bottom of the ruler part. Take this hole and line it up with the middle of the hosel and shaft. This is a picture of a 5 iron with a manufacturers specification of 25 degrees.

5-3: As you can see we are very close to the manufacturers specification by just using a protractor. Again this is not going to be a exact measurement because of the variations of the sole line. But this will get you in the ballpark.

5-4: This picture takes a look at another club, a 60-degree wedge. 5-5: Again we are very close to what the manufacturers specification is, which is 60 degrees.

Again this is not going to be an exact loft measurement but will get you in the ballpark. Go to the

online golf stores and price loft measuring machines once you are ready to take your skill to the next

level.

Other specifications that affect loft are, Face Progression, Center of Gravity, and Shaft Flex. You will

read about these later.

Arrow points to the hole in the protractor.

Hole of protractor lined up with centerline of hosel.



Now lets talk about lie and how it affects the iron golf club. Lie directly affects the golf balls

direction, as it is the horizontal position of the club head at impact. To understand this a little better

refer to figure 5-6.

5-6: This is a look at how the lie angle will affect the golf balls direction.

Lie is basically measured from the center of the shaft or hosel and the sole at the resting position. See

figure 5-7 for an illustrated example.

5-7: This picture shows how to actually measure the lie angle of an iron golf club.

Target

TargetTarget

Sole / Ground Line Lie Angle Too Upright Lie Angle is Correct Lie Angle Too Flat

Degree of Lie



Again when using a protractor to measure certain specifications take in mind that it probably will not

be an exact measurement but rather to get you in the ball park. To use a protractor to measure lie

follow the directions below in the following figures.

5-8: Place the sole flat on the ground line while placing the protractor in front of it with center hole on the heel portion of the club head. Remember to place the hole where the hosel starts to curve into the sole.

5-9: Take the measurement from the center of the hosel or shaft. In the picture I am measuring a 5 iron and the standard lie is 61.5 degrees. When measuring the 5 iron, I came up with the same measurement.

5-10: Here Im measuring the lie of an wedge in the same manner as the 5 iron.

5-11: The wedge has a standard lie of 64 degrees, which again I came up with pretty much the same.



Section 6 Measuring Swingweight

Swingweight is basically how your clubs feel when swinging them. An easy definition of

swingweight can be simply summed up as the relationship of the weight distribution from the club

head end to the grip end. The higher the swingweight of a club can be determined by a amount of

weight in the club head as opposed to the amount of weight in the grip end.

Swingweight is measured or expressed in arbitrary values such as D-0, D-1, D2, with the lower the

letter/number the lighter the swingweight value. This means that a club with a D-0 value will have a

smaller club head to grip end weight ratio than a club with a D-1 value.

To measure swingweight you would need a swingweight scale. All swingweight scales these days

are based on a 14 fulcrum point. A fulcrum points definition is a point at which something

balances. All of the weight from the balancing point (14 fulcrum point) to the club head is

considered to be head weight.

6-1: This figure shows what a typical swingweight scale would look like.

It roughly takes about 5 grams of weight on either end of the club to bring the swingweight up or

down one swingweight.



For example if you have a club with a swingweight of D-0, and you place 5 grams on the club head

you would increase that swingweight to a D-1. Just the opposite would happen if you place 5 grams

on the grip end of the club, you would now bring that swingweight down to a C-9. Starting to

understand the relationship yet?

There are a lot of potential changes to a club that would affect the swingweight:

Bigger or smaller grip

New shaft, especially if you go from a steel shaft to a graphite shaft.

Changing the length of a club.

The balancing point of a shaft will affect the swingweight.

A swingweight scale can come in different shapes and sizes as well as models. You will have your

basic swingweight scales that are as cheap as $39.95 to the most versatile scales at $399.99. You can

get scales to weigh individual components as well and it all depends on how serious you will get

with your new hobby.



Section 7 Iron Club Sole

The sole of the club is the part underneath that touches the ground in the resting position. The sole

has a couple of characteristics that we will discuss in further detail as this section goes on. The sole of

the iron club is designed to glide through the turf without twisting or dragging through impact to

maintain the same direction path as was laid down in the rest position. In figure 7-1 you can clearly

see the three different style soles an iron club may have.

7-1: The three different style soles of iron club heads are listed above.

Sole Width:

Sole width is the measurement from the leading edge to the trailing edge or front to back. See the

first picture in figure 7-1 for a description.

Sole Camber:

Sole camber is the curvature of the sole from the leading edge (front) to the trailing edge (back). See

the middle picture in figure 7-1 for a description.

Conventional or Flat Sole Cambered / Radius Sole Bounce / Inverted Sole Sole Width Sole Camber



Bounce Sole:

When talking about bounce sole, it usually refers to a wedge (PW, LW, GW, or SW). This is where

the trailing edge is lower then the leading edge at normal rest position. The bounce angle of a wedge

is designed for sand and high grass. This is what keeps the club from digging too deep in sand and

getting hung up by tall grass. You can measure bounce angle as seen in figure 7-2.

7-2: The following picture shows how to measure the bounce angle of an iron club.

You can say that the bounce angle of a iron club is 90 degrees the degree from the centerline of the

hosel to the sole line in the resting position = the bounce angle. Or for a numeric equation you would

see something like this: 90o 84o = 6o. Most bounce angles are between 6 and 15 degrees.

90o

Bounce Angle

84o

6o



Section 8 Center of Gravity

Another variable in controlling ball trajectory is the location of the center of gravity. For example the

lower the center of gravity the higher the trajectory, and the higher the center of gravity the lower the

trajectory will be.

8-1: This picture illustrates the affect of the center of gravity has on the golf balls trajectory.

To measure the center of gravity you must remove the club head, balance it, and mark it. You cannot

look at a club head and assume you know where the center of gravity is.

8-2: This picture shows how to locate the center of gravity on a iron head. To actually realize where the center of gravity is on a club head you must mark it and visually look at it from all angles.

Low Center of Gravity

Middle Center of Gravity

High Center of Gravity

Low Center of Gravity

Middle Center of Gravity

High Center of Gravity



8-3: The picture above shows how to measure the center gravity of two different club heads. You will notice that the distance from the leading edge to the center of gravity is different from club to club, but the distance from the ground line to the center of gravity is the same and should be the same in a set of irons.

There are a lot of variables that will affect the center of gravity such as:

Hosel Length.

Hosel Diameter.

Hosel Bore Depth.

Loft Angle.

Blade Thickness.

Blade Length.

Toe and Heel Height.

Another fact to keep in mind is the ball will always contact the clubs face lower then the center of

gravity when hit properly. Keep in mind that as the club number gets smaller the ball will contact

the ball lower then a higher club. For example a 9 iron will contact the ball at point lower on the face

than a 3 iron, and this is due to the loft angle.

1 1/16 13/165/8 5/8



Section 9 Reference Tables

Standard Final Iron Club Lengths:

Iron # Mens Standard Ladies Standard 1 39.5 38 2 39 37.5 3 38.5 37 4 38 36.5 5 37.5 36 6 37 35.5 7 36.5 35 8 36 34.5 9 35.5 34

PW 35.5 34 SW 35.5 34

All lengths are measured in inches.

9-1: This is a table of todays standard club lengths for both Men and Women.

9-2: Remember that when measuring the final club length with a grip you want to measure at the point around 1/8 of an inch below the grip cap, which is usually indicated by a line before the end of the grip. In this case this is a wedge with a final measurement of 35 .

9-3: And remember to start your measuring from the start of the curved section at the toe of the club head. This is the point at which the hosel turns into the toe of the club head.

Refer to section 3, figure 3-25 for instructions.



Here is some tip trimming charts from True Temper, who in my opinion has the most selection of

iron shafts available. Remember these are for irons only, for wood trimming instructions refer to the

second book Quick Guide to Wood Club Assembly for charts. If you select another iron shaft

from another company, remember that the shaft will come with its own tip trimming instructions and

measurements. You will also find available the individual shaft tip trimming instructions from each

manufacturers website.

Remember that when dealing with tapered tip shafts, always butt trim to final length and no tip

trimming is necessary. You can also find all shaft types and tip trimming instructions through the

manufacturers websites.

1. True Temper Iron shaft tip trimming Instructions:

Dynamic Gold Parallel Irons & Dynamic Gold SL

Iron Trim Length 1 0 2 .5 3 1 4 1.5 5 2 6 2.5 7 3 8 3.5 9 4

PW 4.25 SW 4.25


GS 75

Iron Trim Length 3 0 4 .5 5 1 6 1.5 7 2 8 2.5 9 3

PW 3.25 SW 3.25




Black Gold

Iron Trim Length 1 0 2 .5 3 1 4 1.5 5 2 6 2.5 7 3 8 3.5 9 4

PW 4.5 SW 5


Dynalite Gold & Dynalite Gold SL

Iron Trim Length 1 0 2 .5 3 1 4 1.5 5 2 6 2.5 7 3 8 3.5 9 4

PW 4.25 SW 4.25


TT Lite XL

TT Lite with Standard Bore TT Lite with Through Bore TT Lite A/L Parallel Irons Flex R S Flex R S Flex L A Iron Iron Iron

1 1 3 1 0 2 1 0 1 2 1.5 3.5 2 .5 2.5 2 .5 1.5 3 2 4 3 1 3 3 1 2 4 2.5 4.5 4 1.5 3.5 4 1.5 2.5 5 3 5 5 2 4 5 2 3 6 3.5 5.5 6 2.5 4.5 6 2.5 3.5 7 4 6 7 3 5 7 3 4 8 4.5 6.5 8 3.5 5.5 8 3.5 4.5 9 5 7 9 4 6 9 4 5

PW 5.25 7.25 PW 4.25 6.25 PW 4.25 5.25 SW 5.25 7.25 SW 4.25 6.25 SW 4.25 5.25

For details on standard bore and through bore, refer to section 4, figures 4-9 through 4-11.



Dynalite Parallel Irons

Dynalite Combo R/S Parallel Irons Dynalite Combo A/L Parallel Irons Flex S R Flex A L Iron Iron

1 2 0 1 1 0 2 2.5 .5 2 1.5 .5 3 3 1 3 2 1 4 3.5 1.5 4 2.5 1.5 5 4 2 5 3 2 6 4.5 2.5 6 3.5 2.5 7 5 3 7 4 3 8 5.5 3.5 8 4.5 3.5 9 6 4 9 5 4

PW 6.25 4.25 PW 5.25 4.25 SW 6.25 4.25 SW 5.25 4.25


Dynamic Gold Lite

Iron Trim Length 1 0 2 .5 3 1 4 1.5 5 2 6 2.5 7 3 8 3.5 9 4

PW 4.25 SW 4.25


TX-90

Iron Trim Length 1 0 2 .5 3 1 4 1.5 5 2 6 2.5 7 3 8 3.5 9 4

PW 4.25 SW 4.25




Release

Mens Ladies Iron Trim Length Trim Length

1 1 0 2 1.5 .5 3 2 1 4 2.5 1.5 5 3 2 6 3.5 2.5 7 4 3 8 4.5 3.5 9 5 4

PW 5.25 4.25 SW 5.25 4.25


Dynamic (Combo Parallel Irons)

Flex S R Iron Trim Length Trim Length

1 2 0 2 2.5 .5 3 3 1 4 3.5 1.5 5 4 2 6 4.5 2.5 7 5 3 8 5.5 3.5 9 6 4

PW 6.25 4.25 SW 6.25 4.25


Custom Lite (Combo)

Custom Lite Combo A/L Parallel Custom Lite Combo R/S Parallel Flex / Iron L Soft A Firm A Flex / Iron Soft R Firm R Soft S Firm S

1 0 1 2 1 0 1 2 3 2 .5 1.5 2.5 2 .5 1.5 2.5 3.5 3 1 2 3 3 1 2 3 4 4 1.5 2.5 3.5 4 1.5 2.5 3.5 4.5 5 2 3 4 5 2 3 4 5 6 2.5 3.5 4.5 6 2.5 3.5 4.5 5.5 7 3 4 5 7 3 4 5 6 8 3.5 4.5 5.5 8 3.5 4.5 5.5 6.5 9 4 5 6 9 4 5 6 7

PW 4.25 5.25 6.25 PW 4.25 5.25 6.25 7.25 SW 4.25 5.25 6.25 SW 4.25 5.25 6.25 7.25




TX Tour

Flex X R / S Iron Trim Length Trim Length

1 0 0 2 0 .5 3 .5 1 4 1 1.5 5 1.5 2 6 2 2.5 7 2.5 3 8 3 3.5 9 3.5 4

PW 3.75 4.25 SW 3.75 4.25


Loft.

Iron Mens Standard Ladies Standard 1 16 - 2 19 20 3 22 23 4 25 26 5 28 30 6 32 34 7 36 38 8 40 42 9 44 46

PW 48 50 SW 55 56

All lofts are in degrees.

For individual loft of an iron club when purchased check the specification sheet to see what the actual loft is. This is just a reference table for standard lofts.



Lie.

Iron Mens Standard Ladies Standard 1 57 53 2 57 54 3 58 55 4 58 56 5 59 57 6 59 58 7 60 59 8 60 60 9 61 61

PW 61 61 SW 61 61

All lies are in degrees.

For individual lie of an iron club when purchased check the specification sheet to see what the actual lie is. This is just a reference table for standard lies.



Section 10 Golf Terms and Definitions

Here is a list of some of the more important golf terms and their definitions:

1. Blades: These types of irons are also called Muscle Back irons and have most of the

weight behind the center of the face. These are mainly for the more experienced golfers who

like to shape their shots. These types of irons are very unforgiving to the average player.

2. Cavity Back: This type of iron has the weight distributed through the perimeter of the club

head. You can tell this type of club by the indented area in the back of the club head.

3. Center of Gravity: This is where the club will balance. The center of gravity directly affects

the balls trajectory.

4. Club Head: This is the heavier metal part of the golf club that strikes the golf ball. Its

location is opposite the grip end of the club.

5. Loft: This is simply the angle of the clubface measured in degrees.

6. Bounce Sole: The sole type in which the trailing edge is lower then the leading edge when

the club is in the resting position.

7. Cambered Sole: This is the measurement of the radius of sole. This type of sole is usually

rounded from front to back.

8. Cast Iron: This is a iron club head made by a process called Investment casting and the iron

is made in a one-piece method.



9. Club Head Face: This is the part of the club head that directly comes in contact with the golf

ball, well for most players.

10. Ferrule: This is the plastic trim ring that provides a smooth transition from the bigger

diameter of the hosel to the smaller diameter of the shaft.

11. Forge Club Head: This is a club head in which the process of production is stamping and

pounding the club head into shape from a solid piece of metal using hydraulic presses.

12. Heel: This is the back portion of the club head where the hosel is.

13. Hosel: This is the part of the club head that the shaft is inserted and affixed with epoxy.

14. Hosel ID: The inside diameter of the hosel. This is measured in inches and will be in the

thousandths. (.370, .355)

15. Hosel Depth: The distance from the top of the hosel to the bottom of the hosel.

16. Lie: The angle of the shaft to the ground thats measured in degrees while the club is in its

rested position.

17. Offset: This is the distance from the most forward spot on the hosel to the leading edge of

the face.

18. Sole: The bottom section of the club head. This is the part that rests on the ground in the

resting position.



10-1: In this picture you will see where the specific areas of a club head are and what they refer to.

Shaft

Ferrule

Heel

Hosel

Sole

Face

Toe

Grooves

Back



Section 11 How A Wood Club Head is Made

Wood club heads are made in the same exact fashion as iron heads are, in using the investment

casting process. The only exception is that wood club heads are cast in two separate pieces, the sole

and the hollow shell. After these pieces are cast the sole plate is welded onto the hollow shell and

then grinded and sanded. If you pick up a commercial club at a retail shop you would never know

that the club head was cast in two separate pieces.

1-1: This is a picture of a hollow shell and soleplate before being welded together.

Investment Casting:

Step 1: A craftsman will start with a solid piece of rectangular metal for the hollow shell and a piece

of flattened steel for the soleplate. After a series of grinding, cutting on a lathe, and sanding,

will a master model of the two-piece club head be formed. The master models will have all

the final specifications, such as loft, lie, hosel length, sole design, and any letters, logos, and

numbers that may need to be on the final club design.

Step 2: A master die is now formed from the master models and is made from a soft metal usually

aluminum or brass. The die will consist of two separate halves with a hollow inside that is

the exact same shape and size of the master models.



Step 3: A hot liquid wax is now poured into the die and allowed to dry and harden. After the wax is

completely hardened the die is split back into two pieces and the wax replica is removed.

This stage of the process it is repeated several times to mass-produce wax replicas. After a

number of wax replicas are produced they are affixed to an object called a tree or sprue.

Step 4: The tree or sprue is dipped into a liquid ceramic material with a gelling agent to aid in the

hardening. This is also repeated several times to get a good coating on the wax replicas.

Step 5: The tree is then placed into an oven and heated to around 1800o F, which allows the wax to

melt and run out of the ceramic mold.

Step 6: Molten metal is now poured into the empty shells where the wax replicas once were. When

the metal hardens the ceramic material is broken away from the tree leaving the metal cast

club heads still attached to the tree. The club heads are now cut from the tree using a special

type of saw.

Step 7: This is where the hollow shell and soleplate get welded together. They then go through a

series of grinding and sanding to eliminate the weld marks where the soleplate meets the

hollow shell.

Step 8: The wood club heads are sometimes filled with a foam substance in order to dampen the

vibration and help with final weight specifications. The larger club heads are usually not

filled with foam, as the final weight would be higher than needed resulting in a rejected club

head.

Step 9: The final step is finishing the wood club heads. They will most often get a painted finish

somewhat like a car gets painted and protected with a urethane coating. Now its off to the

parent company to be sold to you, and you assemble it and sell to the happy customer of

yours.



Section 12 Tools and Supplies

In this section I would like to go over some tools and supplies you will need to get started assembling

wood golf clubs. You may already have some of these items lying around your house, so it shouldnt

hurt you to bad financially. The flip side is that you may have to purchase some of the necessities in

order to get started. After you become good at this you may want to visit some online golf supply

stores and upgrade on some tools and supplies to make life easier and become more precise with

measurements.

2-1: Organize your tools and supplies out on a workbench before you get started.

Lets start explaining each one and what role they play in assembling wood golf clubs.

16. The most used tool that you use will probably be the vise. This will hold many components

for you. Its a good idea to get rubber clamps so when holding components you do not scratch

or dent them.

17. The ruler is a good tool, as you will need this to take shaft measurements. Make sure its at

least 48 long.



18. You will need a micrometer to measure shaft, hosel, and grip diameters. This may be the

second most used tool that you use. You may have to purchase these and should only cost

around $20.00 to $60.00.

19. The file is another good tool to have. With this tool you will be filing the shafts after being cut.

You will also need a fine file to form your ferrule.

20. The plumbers tube cutter is a tool that you will use to cut steel shafts. If cutting graphite shafts

a hacksaw is the best tool.

21. A felt tip marker is a must for marking different components for measurements.

22. A drill and metal countersink tool is required for doing countersinking on the hosels of club

heads if dealing with graphite shafts.

23. 180 grit sandpaper is used to sand the ferrule to shape. This can also be used to score the end

of the steel shafts for better bonding with the epoxy.

24. There is a special tool included with this book, which is the grip installation tool. This tool will

make your life a lot easier when installing grips.

25. A utility knife comes in handy when scoring a graphite shaft for installation into a club head

hosel.

26. Masking tape is used to protect the shaft and hosel from scratches when working on the

ferrule. It can also be used to pad a grip to make it bigger.

27. Epoxy is a two-part chemical that creates a strong metal like adhesive to bond the shaft to the

hosel.

28. Acetone is used for many purposes. You can use this for clean up, and making your ferrule

shiny again after working it with the file and sandpaper. You can also use acetone for a

solvent when installing your grips.

29. Grip tape is used for grip installations. Also known as double-sided tape.

30. A paint pan is good for catching solvent when installing the grips. In most cases the solvent

can be reused for other grip installations.

You can go to any online golf retail supply store and look around for tools and supplies that would make your life a lot easier.



Section 13 Wood Club Assembly

3-1: The first thing you will want to do is to organize your tools and components out on your workbench. This will make it a lot easier to do your assembling. Next, check your components for any cosmetic or design flaws.

NOTE: To measure the specifications, refer to chapter X for details.

3-2: It is a good idea to clean the hosel bore before installing the shaft. You can do this by using a drill bit the same size as the hosel, with either your hand or an electric drill. NOTE: There is a shoulder or rim inside the hosel about 1 down, do NOT drill past this point.

3-3: If you are installing a graphite shaft, check to see if the top of the inside of the hosel bore is beveled. If it is not, you will want to do this, as this will allow epoxy to fill this area creating a cushion to eliminate the shafts tip from breaking at this point.

3-4: This picture shows how to bevel the edge if it is not already. You can use a drill and metal countersink tool, usually 20o. You only need to do this for a few seconds.

3-5: Temporarily install your shaft to see if it fits properly. Be sure it goes all the way to the bottom of the hosel bore.

3-6: Check to see what type of hosel the club head may have, a rounded top, or square top. This will determine if you need a ferrule installed. If the top is rounded this indicates that a ferrule is not required. If the top of the hosel is square then a ferrule is recommended. A ferrule does one of two things, keeps dirt out of the hosel and provides a smooth transition from the hosel to the shaft.

Rounded Top.

Squared Top.



3-7: If you would like to convert a rounded top hosel to a squared top hosel simply take a sanding belt and grind no more than of the top to make it square. Some of your customers will like the classic look of the ferrule.

3-8: You will want to measure the I.D. of the hosel bore. You can do this by using a micrometer and this is to ensure the hosel bore is the same size as the shaft you will be installing.

3-9: After tip trimming measure the tip of the shaft to make sure it will fit properly into the hosel.

For tip trimming instructions refer to section 4 for details.

3-11: Once we find out the tip trimming instructions we can go ahead and trim the shaft. For graphite shafts its a good idea to tape the section that will be cut. This eliminates the fibers from being splintered during the cutting.

3-12: Measure up the shaft from the tip and trim according to the instructions.

3-13: The best devices to use are a hacksaw blade or a cut off wheel attached to a motor.



3-14: Now you want to take the shaft and insert it into the hosel. Mark a line right above the hosel. The area from the mark to the tip will be the area that will need abraded. This is done to provide a good bonding area for the epoxy.

3-15: For graphite shafts the easiest tool for the job is a utility knife. Place the knife horizontal to the shaft and gently score down. Be careful not to take off to much as you could damage the fibers. You just want to take off the finish.

3-16: For steel shafts you can use a sanding belt.

NOTE: Do not use a belt sander on a graphite shaft, as you may end up sanding down to the fibers, which voids the manufacturers

warranty, and affects the integrity of the shafts strength.

Now lets move on to installing a ferrule.

3-17: Remember in picture 3-6 we talked about how to determine if a ferrule needs to be installed or not. Refer to figure 3-6 for details. The inside diameter of the ferrule should be the same as the outside diameter as the shafts tip you are installing.

3-18: If you recall in figures 3-3 and 3-4 when we beveled the top of the hosel, its also recommended that the ferrule be of the same bevel, which is usually 20o. If the ferrule does not have a bevel follow the same steps in figure 3-4 to obtain that bevel.

3-19: Install the ferrule up the shaft far enough to allow the shaft to penetrate all the way down to the bottom of the hosel.

NOTE: Sometimes the ferrule is stubborn when going over the shaft. You can take some acetone on a queue-tip and rub it on the inside of the ferrule, and this will chemically react to the plastic and provides a lubricate.



Tip: If you have trouble getting your ferrule onto the shaft, then you may have to force it by using the club head itself. Simply put

the ferrule as far as it will go up onto the shaft then with a block of wood underneath the shaft; gently pound down until

the shaft reaches the bottom of the hosel. Then remove the club head to proceed to the next steps.

Tip: Special tools are available from the online golf stores that make ferrule installation a breeze. Do some looking around to see

what they have.

3-20: Some assemblers put a dimple on the tip of a metal shaft where it will go into the hosel. This allows the shaft to fit snug inside the hosel and allow for more open space for epoxy to fill.

3-21: If you are installing a leather grip, you will need to put the grips collar on before installing the ferrule. Its much more easier getting the collar over the tip and up to the butt end then it is to go over the butt end.

3-22: After your ferrule is installed on the shaft, now is the time to mix up some epoxy. This will usually come in two separate containers, which one is a catalyst, and the other is a bonding agent.

3-23: Mix the two-part epoxy together. Be sure to mix evenly as this will create a good evenly reaction resulting in a better bond.

3-24: Take the tip of the shaft and stick it in the epoxy. I like to go about a up the shaft. Make sure you get a good fair amount, as this needs to coat the entire tip.

3-25: Work the shaft into the hosel while spinning it to get a good even coating around the entire abraded area.



3-26: Wipe the excess epoxy from the hosel and the ferrule. Now you need to let the epoxy cure before proceeding.

3-27: After the epoxy has cured, we now need to reduce the diameter of the ferrule to be even with the hosel. If you notice in this figure, the ferrule is slightly bigger then the hosel. This is expected. NOTE: If your ferrule is smaller than your hosel diameter then you will have to get a bigger ferrule.

3-28: To reduce the ferrule size, you will need to put the shaft in a vise while using a fine file to go around the ferrule until it matches the diameter of the hosel. See bottom of page for a tip!

TIP: Any time you put a club head or shaft into a vise, its recommended that you use a set of rubber clamps. If not you will take a

chance of denting or scratching the surfaces of the components. Also when filing or sanding your ferrule, wrap masking

tape around the hosel and shaft to prevent scratching either of the two.

3-29: When you are finished filing, it will mostly likely have flat spots. You can now take a piece of very fine grit sandpaper (220 grit) and lightly sand the flat spots away.

3-30: Take a piece of fine steel wool (000) and take the scratches out that were left from the filing and sanding. This will smooth the ferrule back out.

3-31: Filing and sanding will make the ferrule dull. This is expected.

At this point you can remove the tape from the hosel and shaft.

TIP!

Tip! Use rubber

clamps when using a vise

for club components!

Tip! Wrap masking

tape around both the hosel and shaft

to prevent scratching.



3-30: Now you will want to make that dull ferrule look like new again. Take a paper towel and dampen it with acetone and wipe down the ferrule.

NOTE: Do not let the acetone touch the hosel if it has a finish on it. Most metal woods do not have a finish on the hosels. Check with the description that came along with the club head to be sure.

3-31: Here is your finished ferrule with a nice shine to it, but most important it has the same outside diameter (O.D.) as the hosel.

3-32: Now that we have prepared the club head, assembled the shaft into the hosel with epoxy, and finished adjusting the ferrule, we can now move on to the measuring and cutting the club to the proper club length. You can do this by simply placing a ruler behind the club in its proper lie position (sole is flat on the floor).

3-33: With a felt tip marker mark 1/8 below the desired length. Refer to chapter X for tables on standard finish club length. We want this club to be 38, so we will cut the club at 37 7/8

The grip cap will account for the additional 1/8.

3-34: For steel shafts you can use a tube cutter, which works excellent.

3-35: For graphite shafts follow the directions as given in figures 3-11 through 3-13.

This picture shows a graphite shaft getting cut using a hacksaw blade.

NOTE: Remember to tape the section being cut.

Now on to Installing Grips!



3-36: What you want to do first is to put the shaft in a vise (with rubber clamp pads). Make sure the club head is pointing up in a vertical direction.

3-37: Place the grip next to the shaft remembering to keep in mind that the grip should be placed with the grip cap line at the very end of the shaft. Do not place the grip so as the very end is at the very end of the shaft.

3-38: Mark where the grip will begin.

3-36: Using double-sided grip tape, you want to put the pieces horizontal with the shaft.

NOTE: When laying out your tape make sure to do two things, overlap the tape past the butt end at least an inch, and to place the pieces slightly shorter then the grip mark.

3-37: Once the tape is applied, wrap the ends that stick out past the butt end, and tuck it into the shaft. This does not allow solvent to enter the shaft during installation.

3-38: Now you want to put your finger over the grip end plugging the hole.

Start of grip mark

End of shaft



3-39: Pour some solvent inside the grip and then squeeze the opening of the grip with your other hand and shake. This coats the entire inside of the grip with solvent.

3-40: Now pour the solvent from the grip onto the tape. Be sure to get every inch of the tape wet with solvent. This will make for an easier installation.

NOTE: You can recycle the grip that you use to pour over the tape.

3-41: Take the grip tool provided with this package and slip the grip onto the fingers about 1 or so.

3-42: Take the tool and place it over the butt end of the shaft and push on.

3-43: When the grip is 1/3 of the way on, remove the tool and finish pushing on the grip. Make sure it reaches the end of the shaft.

NOTE: Make sure the start of the grip is exactly on the line you marked with a felt tip marker.

3-44: Place the club in its proper lie position and align the grip with the leading edge of the club head to the proper marking on the grip. (Usually the name or logo.)

NOTE: You can align the grip around 3 or so minutes after installing the grip. After that the grip, solvent, and tape have reacted and will now be permanent.

Allow the club to set overnight or 24 hours and you have just built your first

clubCONGRATULATIONS!!



Section 14 Tip Trimming Instructions

Lets go over the 3 different kinds of golf shafts that there are. This will give you a better

understanding of what you are doing when it comes to trimming the tip. The 3 types of shafts are

Parallel Tip Steel Shaft, Taper Tip Steel Shaft, and Graphite Shaft. For wood clubs you will

probably be dealing with graphite shafts for the most part.

4-1: This is a diagram of the two different steel golf shafts and their parts. You will notice that the tapered tip shaft differs from the parallel tip shaft by; yep you guessed it, the tip and the tips diameter.

Parallel Tip Steel Shaft:

The parallel tip shaft has no diameter change from the tip to the first step. This allows the tip to be

trimmed for final club length, as the number of club gets shorter. The parallel tip shafts are a tad bit

lighter than tapered tip shafts and usually come in a .370 diameter tip.

Tapered Tip Steel Shaft:

The tapered tip golf shaft will usually get abraded and get installed directly into the club heads hosel

and then butt trimmed to length. The tip of the tapered shaft will usually come in a .355 diameter

size. The tapered tip shaft does however change size from the tip to the first step by usually 7

thousandths of an inch per inch up the tip end to the first step.

NOTE: All shafts come with easy to understand tip-trimming instructions.

Butt end of the shaft where the grip gets installed. This is where the butt end diameter gets measured.

Butt Diameter Step Length

First Step

Parallel Tip Shaft.

No Tip Diameter Change

Tapered Tip Shaft.

Tip Diameter Change



Graphite Shaft:

Graphite shafts are easy to understand, as they will come with their own discrete trimming

instructions for the different club numbers and flexs. They also do not change diameter size by step

increments.

Here are a couple of tips to before getting started with the actual tip trimming instructions.

Always butt trim club to final length after you tip trim and install the club.

Tapered tip shafts never should be tip trimmed because they come in discrete lengths according to the club number.

Lets move on to tip trimming a shaft. Lets say I have a 3 wood club head with a hosel bore ID of

.335. I should have a shaft with a .335 shaft tip. I have chosen a graphite shaft so I can show you

the tip trimming steps.

This is an example of what you may find on a dealers or manufacturers website on tip trimming instructions for graphite shafts. Notice that for a 3 wood you have to trim .5, 1.0, or 1.75 depending on the bore type. Notice that it comes in 3 different flexes which you will specify when ordering. Also notice it comes in two different tip diameters. With the club heads hosel accepting a .335 shaft tip then this would be the one to order.

ProLaunch 65

Product Flex Tip Diam. Butt Diam. Length Tip Length Torque Weight Ball Flight

Parallel Woods - .335 tip R, S, X .335 .605 46.0 4.5 2.8 64 HIGH

Parallel Woods - .350 tip R, S, X .350 .600 46.0 4.5 2.8 64 HIGH

Woods Tip Trim Driver 3-Wood 4-Wood 5-Wood

Through Bore 0.0 0.5 0.75 1.0

Blind Bore 0.5 1.0 1.25 1.5

Standard Bore 1.25 1.75 2.0 2.25 4-3: Look at the trimming instructions that came with your golf shaft. You should see a tip trimming measurement for the club your assembling.

Note: For explanations on the different bore styles refer to section 6.



NOTE: Each shaft will come with tip trimming instructions. Always remember that you can get the

information needed from the manufacturers website. Take a look, hop onto a known shaft

manufacturers website and find the tip trimming instructions for their shaft types. You should find

the tip trimming instructions under the technical area of the website.

Lets look at what we have so far. We now have a graphite shaft made for a 3 wood club head with a

.335 tip diameter. We also know that we have to tip trim 1.75 off the tip for a standard bore.

Lets move on to the actual tip trimming.

4-4: Once you have your tip trimming instructions, measure up the shaft from the tip (in this case its 1 3/4) and mark a line with a felt tip marker.

4-5: Once you have the mark, go ahead and cut the shaft using a plumbers pipe cutter.

Note: When putting your components in a vise its highly recommended that you use rubber clamps. This will eliminate any scratching or denting caused by the metal jaws of the vise.

4-6: File any sharp edges that the tube cutter left.

4-7: When measuring a graphite shaft, measure up the shaft and wrap 2 layers of masking tape around the area to be cut. This will eliminate damage to the fibers from the cutting process.

4-8: This is a picture of what damaged fibers look like on a graphite shaft. This voids the warranty and damages the integrity of the shafts performance.

4-8: Use a hacksaw blade to cut through the tape and then the graphite.



Lets talk about the flex of a golf shaft. There are five ratings for shaft flex:

6. Extra Stiff = X

7. Stiff = S

8. Regular = R

9. Senior = A

10. Ladies = L

The flex of a shaft can affect a couple of important things in the golf swing, accuracy, trajectory, and

distance.

When tip trimming your golf shafts keep in mind that if you mistakenly trim your shafts incorrectly it

will affect the shafts flex. For example lets say you are suppose to take 1 off the tip and you take 2

you have just changed your shafts flex to a stiffer flex. If you tip trim a tapered tip shaft, it may not

fit into the hosel therefore it will cause you to drill the bore out slightly bigger to accept the bigger

diameter of the shafts tip.

So tip trimming is important!

Always measure twice and cut once.

Always follow the suggested manufacturers instructions.

Hope this helps in the shaft tip trimming area.



Section 15 Measuring Loft & Lie

First lets talk about loft and how it pertains to the wood club head. The loft is responsible for the

trajectory of the golf ball as the club head strikes it. The trajectory is simply how high or low the golf

balls flight path is.

The most important thing to remember is that wood clubs are not measured the same as irons are.

Another key point to remember is that wood club head loft is measured the height distance of the

face. To measure the loft of a wood club head simply take the angle from the sole to the face less

ninety degrees. Figure 5-1 illustrates this.

5-1: This picture illustrates how to properly measure the loft of a wood club head. The numeric formula would look like this, 110 90 = 10

Unfortunately is quite hard to measure loft with a common protractor. Although you can get close it

will most likely not be the exact measurement of loft. There are however special measuring tools that

can be bought for measuring loft and lie, and these may be expensive. I would suggest that you

assemble a few clubs before going out and purchasing one of these machines. The cost of these

machines can be from $150.00 to $800.00.

Sole Line

Ground Line

10o

90o

110o



Lets measure a few clubs using a protractor.

5-2: Most protractors will have a hole in the center of the 90-degree area on the bottom of the ruler part. Take this hole and line it up with the middle of the hosel and shaft. This is a picture of a driver with a manufacturers specification of 10.5 degrees.

5-3: As you can see we are very close to the manufacturers specification by just using a protractor. Again this is not going to be a exact measurement because of the variations of the sole line and face bulge. But this will get you in the ballpark.

5-4: This picture takes a look at another club, a 3 wood with a manufacturers loft specification of 15 degrees

5-5: Again we are very close to what the manufacturers specification is, which is 15 degrees.

You will notice its very difficult to get an exact reading on loft with a protractor because of the face

bulge and sole radius.

Again this is not going to be an exact loft measurement but will get you in the ballpark. Go to the

online golf stores and price loft measuring machines once you are ready to take your skill to the next

level.



Now lets talk about lie and how it affects the wood golf club. Lie directly affects the golf balls

direction, as it is the horizontal position of the club head at impact. To understand this a little better

refer to figure 5-6.

5-6: This is a look at how the lie angle will affect the golf balls direction.

Lie is basically measured from the center of the shaft or hosel and the sole at the resting position. See

figure 5-7 for an illustrated example.

5-7: This picture shows how to actually measure the lie angle of a wood golf club.

Sole / Ground Line

Lie Angle



Again when using a protractor to measure certain specifications take in mind that it probably will not

be an exact measurement but rather to get you in the ball park. To use a protractor to measure lie

follow the directions below in the following figures.

5-8: Place the sole flat on the ground line while placing the protractor in front of it with center hole on the heel portion of the club head. Remember to place the hole where the hosel starts to curve into the sole.

5-9: Take the measurement from the center of the hosel or shaft. In the picture I am measuring a driver and the standard lie is 55 degrees. When measuring the driver, I came up with the same measurement.

5-10: Here Im measuring the lie of a 3 wood in the same manner as the driver.

5-11: The 3 wood has a standard lie of 56 degrees, which again I came up with pretty much the same.

Here are some things that may affect the lie angle of a iron golf club, Shaft Flex, and Club Length.

You will read more about loft and lie in the 4th book, Quick Guide to Custom Golf Club Fitting,

but for now enjoy the rest of this book. Again this book is only intended to get you started quick and

with the fundamentals of assembling.



Section 16 Hosel Bore Type

There are 3 types of hosel bore lengths in wood club heads.

6. Standard Bore

6. Through Bore

6. Blind Bore

6-1: This illustration shows the three different bore types found in wood club head hosels.

The Through bore penetrates all the way to the bottom of the sole.

The Blind bore will usually stop about to from the bottom of the sole.

The Standard bore will usually stop about to 1 from the bottom of the sole.

These bore types are important to know before you tip trim your shaft, as they will directly affect the shafts flex.

You will notice when tip trimming your shaft that the directions will give you different lengths of tip to trim

depending on the bore type.

To measure the bore type is simple to do and understand. Take a look at figure 6-2 to get an idea of how to do

this.

Through Bore Blind Bore Standard Bore



6-2: This picture illustrates how to measure the bore type.

Take the hosel length measurement and the depth of the hosel bore.

Then subtract the total length from the depth to get a remaining length. If the remaining length is 0 then you have a through bore, if the remaining length is to then you have a blind bore, and if the remaining length is to 1 then you have a standard bore.

If you were to have a numeric formula it would look like this:

Total length = 4

Bore Depth = 3

Remaining Length =

4 3 =

I would categorize this bore type as being a Blind Bore.

Total Length

Bore Depth

Remaining length



Section 17 Face Progression

Face progression on a wood club is basically the distance from the center of hosel to the most forward

point of the leading edge of the face. This characteristic has a small affect on two areas of the golf

swing at impact and those are trajectory and loft. Figure 7-1 shows a diagram of face progression.

7-1: Illustration of what face progression is.

An example of how face progression affects the trajectory is the timing in striking the golf ball. For

example if the face progression on one club were and another club has a face progression of ,

the ball would be struck sooner with the club. With face progression you have a downhill

affect on the loft and trajectory so to speak. The loft of a club is slightly changed at impact by the face

progression thus resulting in different trajectories of the ball flight. Figure 7-2 shows illustrations of

how face progression affects loft and trajectory.

The only club head characteristic that affects the face progression of a club head is the hosel boring.

Section 8 Hosel Boring goes into a little more detail on how this affects face progression.

Face Progression



7-2: This illustration shows how face progression changes the flight path or trajectory of the golf ball at impact.

1 Face Progression

Higher Trajectory

Face Progression

Normal Trajectory

Face Progression

Lower Trajectory



Section 18 Hosel Bore

The most important specification of wood club head manufacturing is the hosel bore as this

specification affects so many characteristics of the club head itself from face angle to face progression

and many others in between including loft and lie.

First lets talk about Face Angle and how hosel boring affects this specification:

8-1: This picture illustrates how hosel boring affects face angle.

As you will see there are 3 different face angle specifications for a wood club head.

Slice or Open Face

Straight or Square Face

Hook or Closed Face

You will be able to tell what type of face angle you have

just by simply placing the club in its proper lie position

making sure the sole of the club is flat on the ground.

See figure 8-2 for an example.

Open or Slice Face Angle

Intended Target

Straight or Square Face Hooked or Closed Face Angle

8-2: This picture illustrates a 3-wood with a hook or closed face angle.



The next thing that can be affected by the hosel boring is the lie angle. Lets recap back to section 1

How Wood Club Heads are Made. Remember discussing the investment casting process where the

wood club head is cast in two separate pieces, the hollow shell, and the soleplate. This is where the

hosel boring is determined. The hosel bore is determined by the angle of the hosel itself when cast.

Figure 8-3 shows a good representation.

8-3: This illustration shows the different lie angles that can be determined by the hosel angle.

NOTE: This particular characteristic or specification comes into play when custom fitting someone

for a set of clubs. To read more about this refer to the 4th book, Quick Guide to Custom Fitting and

Repair.

Normal Lie Angle Flat Lie Angle Upright Lie Angle



Section 19 Reference Tables

Here are some reference tables that would include standard wood club lengths, loft angles, lie angles,

and links to some trimming instruction tables from leading sources of wood club graphite and steel

shaft manufacturer.

Mens Standard Wood Club Lengths:

Wood Club Number Mens Titanium Woods Mens Graphite Shafted Steel Wood Club Heads

Mens Steel Shafted Steel Wood Club Heads

1 45 44 43 3 44 43 42 5 43 42 41 7 42 41 40 9 41 40 40

9-1: Mens Standard wood club lengths.

Womens Standard Wood Club Lengths:

Wood Club Number Womens Titanium Woods Womens Graphite Shafted Steel Wood Club Heads

Womens Steel Shafted Steel Wood Club Heads

1 44 43 42 3 43 42 41 5 42 41 40 7 41 40 39 9 40 39 38

9-2: Womens Standard wood club lengths.

Mens & Womens Standard Wood Club Head Loft:

Wood Number Mens Standard Womens Standard 1 11 12 3 16 17 5 22 23 7 28 29 9 34 35

9-3: Mens and Womens Standard Wood Club Loft: Note: All lofts are measured in degrees.



Mens & Womens Standard Wood Club Lie Angle:

Wood Number Mens Standard Womens Standard 1 55 53 3 56 54 5 57 55 7 58 56 9 59 57

9-3: Mens and Womens Standard Wood Club Lie Angle: Note: All58 lie angles are measured in degrees.

For all tip-trimming instructions please go to the following websites for information regarding these

measurements. These websites will lead you directly to their shaft selection and tip trimming

instructions.

Grafalloy - http://www.grafalloy.com/grafalloy/trimming.asp

UST - http://www.ustgolfshaft.com/docs/Charts_TipTrimming_AllShafts.pdf

Aldila - http://www.aldila.com/tech2.html

Harrison - http://www.harrison.com/cutting.html



Section 20 Putter Assembly

Putter assembly can fall into two categories, over-hosel in which the hosel has a post sticking out of it,

or in-hosel assembly in which the hosel itself is bored like your iron club heads. Each one gets

assembled pretty much the same with the exception that the shaft will either fit into or go over the

hosel. We will be going over the in-hosel method in this book. Although they are very much alike,

there are some differences which I will explain as the need arises.

I would also like to say that putters are manufactured in the same way as iron club heads (investment

casting) are with the exception they can also be manufactured using the CNC milling process.

Putter assembly is the simplest form of club assembly as they are nowhere near as complicated as

irons or wood clubs. This book is relatively shorter because of this.

3-1: The first thing you want to do is measure inside of the hosel to make sure it will accept the shaft you will be installing. The two sizes of hosel bores will usually accept a .355 or .370 shaft. Designated putter shafts are designed with a .355 shaft tip diameter.

3-2: Measure the shaft OD you will be installing to make sure you ordered the correct one.

NOTE: For putter specific shafts, there is no tip trimming necessary.

3-3: Temporarily install the shaft into the hosel and mark a line with a felt tip marker right above the hosel. This indicates the area to be abraded.

If you are installing an over the hosel putter then you may have to order a specific shaft that will

work. In order to do this measure the hosel post at the base (nearest the putter head) with a

micrometer or caliper. If your post is larger than .370 then you will have to do one of two things, do

some research in order to find the right shaft ID to serve your purpose, or try and sand down the post

enough to have the shaft fit over it.



3-4: Here is where you will abrade the tip of the shaft to the mark that you marked with a felt tip marker. You can do this by using a coarse piece of sandpaper.

NOTE: When using a vise make sure to use rubber clamps for the purpose of not scratching the shaft.

3-5: You can also use a belt sander if you are equipped with one.

3-6: After abrading the shafts tip it should look like the above picture. This is done to ensure a good coarse bonding area for the epoxy to bond to.

3-7: Now on to the epoxy. Mix a small amount of epoxy together.

NOTE: You will notice that a putter hosel is not as deep as an iron or wood so the amount of epoxy can be a little less.

3-8: If you have an in-hosel putter, put a dap on the tip of the shaft..

NOTE: If dealing with a over-hosel putter you will want to abrade the post and then dip it into the epoxy.

3-9: Insert the shaft into the hosel of the putter. If working with an over-hosel, then slide the post of the hosel into the shaft.

NOTE: For over the hosel putter installations the shaft may not fit all the way down to the hosel base. This is where you may need to sand the post at the base or purchase a trim ring to take up the space between the hosel base and shafts tip. Post

TriOver th

Hos



3-10: After you installed the shaft (either way, a over-hosel or in-hosel) you will need to wipe any excess epoxy off the shaft and putter head.

NOTE: Let the epoxy cure for 24 hours before moving on to step 3-11.

3-11: Once the epoxy has had time to cure you now must trim the putter to length. For putters you need to put the ruler in line with the shaft or hosel rather than the heel portion of the club head. This will give you a more accurate measurement.

3-12: Mark your final length with a felt tip marker.

3-13: Take your pipe cutter and cut the desired length.

3-14: File any sharp edges from the cutting process. This is done so the grip will slide on without catching any edges.

3-15: Place your grip next to the shaft in the assumed installed position.



3-16: NOTE: Remember to place the grip overlapping about a 1/8 over the end of the shaft to take in account the end grip cap.

3-17: To install the grip place the club in the vise with the toe of the putter head pointed upward in a vertical direction.

3-18: Apply the grip tape from the mark that you made to the end of the shaft, remembering to overlap the tape about . Tuck the pieces of the tape inside the shafts butt end to not allow water to get inside the shaft.

3-19: Take the grip and put your finger over the hole thats at the end of the shaft.

3-20: Pour your solvent inside the grip while keeping your finger over the hole.

3-21: Take the open end of the grip and pinch it together with your other hand. Tip the grip upside down a few times to get a good coating on the inside walls of the grip.

NOTE: Its a good idea to take something like a paint tray and put it under the butt end of the shaft to catch any spillage. NOTE: Solvents for use in grips can come in many different materials from acetone to water. I like to use water as it is not harmful and doesnt require ventilation. Remember when ordering your grip tape to look at what type of solvent is used with it.



3-22: Pour the solvent thats inside the grip over the tape thats on the shaft.

3-23: Take the grip installation tool and slip the open end of the grip over the fingers about an inch or so.

3-24: Slide the bigger end of the grip tool over the butt end of the shaft about 2 inches or so.

3-25: Remove the tool from the grip and continue pushing the grip over the tape to the mark on the shaft.

3-26: Align the flat part of the grip to the leading edge of the putter if your installing a putter grip. If your installing a regular grip, which some customers will prefer, align the letters or logos with the leading edge of the putter head.

3-27: Allow the grip to set for 24 hours and you have just built a brand new putter.

CONGRATULATIONS!



Section 21 Putter Specifications, Facts, and Myths

Here are some putter specifications, Facts, and Myths:

Lie:

The lie on a putter is usually around 68 degrees to 78 degrees with an average of 72 degrees.

You can measure the putter lie the same way as indicated in the iron assembly book.

Length:

The most common putter lengths are usually 33 to 36 and this does not include todays belly

putters, which are custom fit to a persons height and other denominators.

Mens putters have an average overall length of around 34 to 35, while a womens average

length is 33 to 34.

Shaft:

The shafts preferred are of a stiffer origin and are usually sold a designated putter shafts.

Loft:

Putters do have a loft contrary to belief and they are usually from 2 degrees to 4 degrees. The

loft controls the amount of distance the ball will skid then come to a roll. If the putter had no

loft you would most likely squeeze the ball between the putter head and the ground causing a

bounce action, which then you would have no distance or directional control.



Putter Grip:

The most important aspect of the putter is the feel when swinging and this comes from the

grip. The flat spot on the putters grip is not only for alignment but to lock your fingers in

place to better square the club head at impact.

Swingweight:

Putters should also be swing weighted to match the set of irons and woods.

Congratulations! Your Finished

Documents

05 Step by Step Guide to Golf Club Assembly for the Absolute Beginner