040 041

inspirational producers

“Switzerland is well known for its emmentaler, gruyère and sprinz cheeses and I wanted to explore the craft,” says

cheesemaker Peter Limacher, who co-founded dairy business Molke 7 in 2014. Good fortune brought him to Bäch in the vicinity of Zürich, where he met farmers

Hans Peter Jost and Thomas Bucher. Shortly thereafter the trio decided to buy and bring

new life to a derelict creamery near Lake Sempach in central Switzerland.

The business has established decent rural and urban clienteles thanks to its devotion to traditional dairy practices, paired with strong design-minded branding. Its range of cheeses

(including Limacher’s aged chällermeister, salvatore and blüemlichääs), whey drinks, butter and yogurts made with homemade

fruit and berry preserves are available from Molke 7’s factory shop. You can also get them at regional open-air weekend markets, as well

CheeseMolke 7, Switzerland

Molke 7 in numbers

Founded: 2014Staff: 8

Types of cheese produced: 7Litres of local milk used each day: 800

Stockists in Switzerland: 40

as the Zürich and Lucerne-based branches of Swiss department store Globus (see

page 160). “We value organic growth and only produce as much as we can sell,” says

Limacher, who every week collects jugs of milk from nearby farms, minutes after

the cows have been milked.The milk is still warm when the cheese-

making process begins. First it’s heated in copper vessels; then an enzyme thickens the milk before it’s divided, dried and pressed into moulds. At the end of the days-long

process, the cheese is stored in the cellar for nine to 12 months. “For me quality begins with the ground, which grows healthy food for the cows,” says Limacher. “In summer there’s fresh grass; in winter, hay. The cows

that produce Molke 7’s milk literally live on Wolke 7.” Cloud Nine to you and me.

kaeserei-molke7.ch

328 329

Acknowledgements

WritersMikaela AitkenMatt AlagiahLiam AldousChloë AshbyKimberly BradleyJessica BridgerMegan BillingsSteven BodzinMichael BoothRobert BoundIvan CarvalhoJames ChambersAnnabelle ChapmanMelkon CharchoglyanMaddison ConnaughtonJesse DartLinda DyettPauline EifermanJason FaragoSimon Farrell-GreenJosh FehnertAlastair GeeNolan GilesMarianna GiustiTorbjørn GoaNelly GochevaBill GrangerSophie GroveKenji HallJessica HarrisMarkus HippiSahar KhanAlicia KirbyKati KrauseAlice LascellesTomos LewisJason LiKurt LinChristopher LordHugo MacdonaldLisa MarkwellAiden McLaughinKate McInerney

Photographers Serra AkcanDustin AkslandSarah AndersonLacey Ann JohnsonPeter Ash LeeThom AtkinsonSimon BajadaMattia BalsaminiSidney BensimonAurélien BergotKaren BlumbergDaniel BoudAya BrackettLaura BraunLorne BridgmanJane BruceRodrigo CardosoEarl CarterRoger CasasFrançois CavelierCarmen ChanJesse ChehakTerence ChinNatalie ChitwoodSilvia CondeChris CrerarDaniel CroninAna CubaBea de GiacomoDavid de VleeschauwerPetros EfstathiadisThomas EkströmMarius EktvedtCapucine FachotMuhammad FadliAndreas FesslerPhil FiskStuart FreedmanStefan FürtbauerDaniel Gebhart de KoekkoekLucy GoodhartAnders GramerChristoph Haiderer

Hideaki HamadaBenya HegenbarthMariano HerreraLutz HilgersVéronique HoeggerJames HoranAnna HuixLaura HyndSayuki InoueMika IshikawaMalte JägerSteven JoyceKatie KaarsHubert KangRachel KaraCasey KelbaughDrew KellyDalia KhamissyAmanda KhoRama KnightKensington LeverneJessica LongSalva LópezLit MaEhrin MackseyAmanda MarsalisRebecca MarshallEmma McIntyreBenjamin McMahonTrent McMinnRenee MelidesJason Michael LangClaudio MorelliJustin MottValerie NarteValeria NecchioAlecia NeoHayato NogeTatsuya OchiFelix OdellBaris OzcetinKrzysztof PacholakSatu PalanderCristobal Palma

Marisa Mazria KatzDavid MichonSarah MorozTom MorrisAndrew MuellerElna Nykänen AnderssonDebbie PappynNathaniel Parish FlanneryDan PooleCarli RatcliffAmy RichardsonChiara RimellaHannah RitchieSantiago Rodríguez TarditiLaura RysmanNathalie SavaricasDavid SaxMarie-Sophie SchwarzerAleksander SolumAisha SpeirsEd StockerSyma TariqJunichi ToyofukuAndrew TuckJamie WatersFiona Wilson

Illustrators Giacomo GambineriGergo GiliczeSatoshi Hashimoto

Special thanksCaroline BrewsterAna CubaPete KempshallEdward KennedyEd LawrensonGui RebeloThomas ReynoldsAdam RichmondDara SutinAliz TennantIlse Viveros

PropsAnother Country DivertimentiGeorg JensenGoodfellow & GoodfellowJapanese Knife CompanyMakers & BrothersMay StudiosMinimaluxRiedelSCPSimple ShapeSkandiumSkultuna31 Chapel Lane

ResearchMikaela AitkenMelkon CharchoglyanBen CraikTina HaertelKurt LinAliz TennantCharlie YoungZayana Zulkiflee

Monocleeditor in chief & chairman:Tyler Brûlé

editor:Andrew Tuck

The Monocle Guide to Drinking & Diningeditor:Josh Fehnert

books editor:Joe Pickard

associate editor, books:Amy Richardson

researcher/writer:Mikaela Aitken

recipe development:Kate McInerney

designers:Richard Spencer PowellKate McInerneyJay YeoSam Brogan

photo editors:Matthew BeamanShin MiuraFaye Sakura Rentoule

production:Jacqueline DeaconDan PooleChloë AshbySean McGeadySonia Zhuravlyova

Chapter editing:

part 1.food for thought

1. Inspirational ProducersNolan Giles

2.How To...Matt Alagiah

3.My Last MealJason Li

4.EssaysJoe Pickard

5.Local FlavoursJosh Fehnert

part 2.stocking up

6.Food MarketsEd Stocker

7.Food RetailersFiona Wilson

8.Smart PackagingJosh Fehnert

part 3.roll up your sleeves

Tools of the TradeJosh Fehnert

How to HostRobert Bound

9.The RecipesKate McInerneyMarie-Sophie Schwarzer

part 4.the directory

10.Restaurants, Cafés & BarsJason Li

Ian PattersonKristoffer PaulsenKate PetersTony PottsHeiko PriggeAlex PuschAndrew QuernerCharlie RichardsJohannes RomppanenEwoud RooksFlurina RothenbergerGreta RybusCarol SachsAna SantlPutu SayogaJens SchwarzLaura SciacovelliJan SøndergaardRuedi SteckLauren StonestreetDavid StraightDavid SykesKohei TakePeter TarasiukTaro TerasawaBrad TorchiaGianfranco TripodoNicole TungAndrew UrwinKerem UzelJonathan van der KnaapMarius W HansenLukas WassmannMichael WeeWeston WellsSimon WilsonChristopher WiseAdam WisemanVirginia Woods-JackAndrea Wyner

330 331

AAamann, Adam 236 Aamanns, Copenhagen 119, 236 Adelaide 288 Aheste, Istanbul 298Akaoni, Tokyo 318 Allende, Isabel 74 Allpress, Auckland 36 – 37 Amalfi 64 – 65 Amsterdam 234 Anderson, Laurie 80 Ann, Pam 84 Apollo, The, Sydney 88, 315 Appia, Bangkok 290 Apple-jack brandy,

Charlottesville, USA 32 – 33Aprazível, Rio de Janeiro 312 AR Sutton & Co Engineers Siam,

Bangkok 291 Athens 63, 116Auckland 36 – 37, 49, 113, 231,

289, 290Australia 22 – 23, 46 – 47, 48 – 49,

50 – 51, 52 – 53, 72, 76, 88, 124 – 125, 150 –151, 229, 233, 238, 288, 304, 305, 315, 316, 317

Austria 117, 132 – 133, 167, 242, 323 Avillez, José 245Avocados 22 – 23

BBabylonstoren, Franschhoek,

South Africa 294 Bajada, Simon 60 – 61Balla, Sydney 233 Balmond, Cecil 71Bangkok 114, 168 – 169, 290, 291 Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie,

Vancouver 47 Bar Brosé, Sydney 238 Bar Giornale, Munich 307 Bar Tartine, San Francisco 313 Bartending 50 – 51Barcelona 159 Barham Avocados, Barham,

Australia 22 – 23 Barque Butcher Bar, Toronto 322 Barthélemy, Paris 158Bassano del Grappa 162 Baxter Inn, The, Sydney 50 – 51 Beamsville, Canada 62 – 63Beer 38 – 39 Beirut 292 Belgium 163, 295 Berlin 69, 87, 115, 292Berowra Waters Inn, Sydney 72Bibenda, Warsaw 323 Bills, Sydney 316 Bi-Rite, San Francisco 154 – 155 Bistro Charlotte, Warsaw 324 Bodega La Ardosa, Madrid 303Bolzano 293 Bombay Brasserie, London 71 Bouchon, Monte Carlo 237 Branding 62 – 63, 179 – 191Brazil 112, 312

Index

Bread Alone, New York 59 Brisbane 52 – 53 Broken Shaker at Freehand Miami,

The, Miami 306 Broken Spanish, Los Angeles 302 Brown, Barney 248Bull & Last, The, London 302 Butagumi, Tokyo 319 Butter 30 – 31

CC-Lounge, Athens 116 Café Altro Paradiso, New York 309Café Lisboa, Lisbon 245Café Prückel, Vienna, 323 Calgary 293 Canada 47, 62 – 63, 126 – 127,

146 – 147, 241, 293, 307, 321, 322 Canta Rana, Lima 230 Carriageworks Farmers Market,

Sydney 124 –125 Cecconi’s, London 83 Celso y Manolo, Madrid 303 Central, Zürich 325 Chaco Amemiya, Tokyo 89Charlottesville, Virginia 32 – 33 Chateau Monestier La Tour,

Dordogne, France 56 –57 Cheese 40 – 41 Chile 26 – 27 China 112, 239, 243, 296, 297Chin, Lee Lin 76Chocolate 28 – 29 Cignale Enoteca, Tokyo 321 Coffee beans 36 – 37 Common Ground, Hong Kong 243 Conserveira de Lisboa, Lisbon

172 – 173 Cookbook writing 60 – 61 Copenhagen 119, 236 Corinth 42 – 43

DDairy farming 34 – 35 De Kas, Amsterdam 234 Delicatessen, Istanbul 164 – 165 Denmark 119, 236 De Superette, Ghent 295 Dillon’s Gin, Beamsville,

Canada 62 – 63 Dinings, London 301 Dinner-party tips 212 – 225Dispensa 60 – 61 Distilling spirits 64 – 65Distrikt Coffee, Berlin 292 Dizengoff, Auckland 290 Dolo, Italy 24 – 25Dordogne, France 56 – 57 Drink Factory, London 51 Duddell’s, Hong Kong 297

EEarl’s Juke Joint, Sydney 316 Egg Shop, New York 308

El Bocon del Prete, Bassano del Grappa, Italy 162

Eliasson, Olafur 87 El Mercat Central, Valencia 58 – 59Épicerie Générale, Paris 148 – 149Err, Bangkok 291Espresso Room, The, London 301 Essays 95 – 107Estremoz, Portugal 294Ett Hem, Stockholm 314Eventide Oyster Company,

Portland, Maine 246

FFantastic Market, Osaka 58 – 59Fayston, USA 30 – 31Federal, The, Toronto 321 Fereikos Helix, Corinth 42 – 43 Ferrari winery, Trento, Italy 56 – 57 Finland 134 – 135, 174 – 175, 232 Fischbänke, Bolzano, Italy 293Fishmonger 54 Florian, Berlin 69 Food truck 55 Forst, South Tyrol, Italy 38 – 39Four Letter Word, Istanbul 299 Four Seasons, The, New York 79France 56 – 57, 75, 148 – 149, 158,

310, 311 Franklin, Hobart, Australia 229 Franschhoek, South Africa 294 Fuglen, Oslo 310 Fukuoka, Japan 140 – 141 Fukuoka Fish Market, Fukuoka,

Japan 140 – 141Furgiuele, Vincente 230

GGambrinus, Lisbon 300 Garage Project, Wellington 65 García, Eduardo 235General Store, London 144 – 145 Geneva 295 Germany 62 – 63, 64 – 65, 69, 87,

111, 115, 292, 296, 307 Ghent 163, 295 Gin 64 – 65 Gin Sul, Hamburg 64 – 65 Globus Delicatessa, Zürich

160 – 161 Goldfrapp, Alison 68 Gourmet Market, Bangkok 168 – 169 Gowings Bar & Grill, Sydney 76Grand Central Market,

Los Angeles 138 – 139 Granville Island Public Market,

Vancouver 126 – 127 Greece 42 – 43, 63, 116 Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co,

New York 309 Gregory, Analiese 238 Grocery shops 52 – 53 Gunzwil, Switzerland 40 – 41Gupta, Subodh 81 Gurgaon, India 81

HHamburg 64 – 65, 296 Hand & Flowers, The, Marlow,

UK 247 Händelmaier’s Mustard, Regensburg,

Germany 62 – 63 Hanoi 116 Hartl, Sevgi 242Hawaii, USA 297 Hay, Donna 72 Heartbreaker, Melbourne 305 Helou, Anissa 60 – 61 Helsinki 134 – 135, 174 – 175, 232 Hip Group, Auckland 49 Hobart 229 Ho Chi Minh City 28 – 29Ho Lee Fook, Hong Kong 239 Hong Kong 112, 239, 243, 296, 297 Honolulu 297Howell, Margaret 90

IIceland 311 India 81Indonesia 48 – 49, 299 Insalata’s, San Anselmo, California 74 Isetan department store, Tokyo

170 – 171 Istanbul 113, 164 – 165, 249,

298, 299 Italy 24 – 25, 38 – 39, 53, 56 – 57,

60 – 61, 64 – 65, 70, 92, 115, 162, 293

JJ Sheekey, London 91 Jack’s Wife Freda, New York 308 Jakarta 48 – 49, 299 Japan 34 – 35, 46 – 47, 57,

58 – 59, 89, 111, 140 – 141, 152 – 153, 156 – 157, 170 – 171, 318, 319, 320, 321

Jones, Nick 83JQ Dickinson Salt-Works,

Malden, USA 20 – 21 Julius Meinl, Vienna 167

KKama Asa Shoten, Tokyo 152 – 153 Karakoy Lokantasi, Istanbul 249 Kerridge, Tom 247 Kitchen and dining utensils 195 – 210Kokako Café, Auckland 113, 231 Kopimanyar, Jakarta 299 Kronenhalle, Zürich 50 – 51, 325

LLa Pergola, Rome 92 Laird & Company, Charlottesville,

USA 32 – 33Larte, Milan 70

Le Baron Rouge, Paris 311Le Clown Bar, Paris 310 Le Fournil, Provence 75 Le Veau d’Or, New York 86 Lebanon 292 Lemonia, London 300 Life Son, Tokyo 320 Lima 114, 230 Lisbon 110, 172 – 173, 245, 300 Livestock Tavern, Honolulu 297Loblaws, Toronto 146 – 147 Local flavours 110 – 119Lois, George 79 London 51, 54, 60 – 61, 68, 71, 77,

78, 83, 84, 91, 119, 136 – 137, 144 – 145, 166, 228, 244, 300, 301, 302

Los Angeles 138 – 139, 302Lurra, London 244

MMadrid 130 – 131, 176 – 177, 303 Magazine 60 – 61 Malkovich, John 75Maltby Street Market,

London 136 – 137 Mandolin Aegean Bistro, Miami 306 Manfredi, Stefano 233 Mangerie, Istanbul 298 Marden, Melia 240 Marinehof, Hamburg 296 Marion Wine Bar, Melbourne 46 – 47 Marlow 247 Marou, Ho Chi Minh City 28 – 29Mathallen, Oslo 128 – 129 Matsuhisa, Nobuyuki ‘Nobu’ 73Melbourne 46 – 47, 304, 305Mercado Central de Pescados,

Madrid 130 – 131Mercearia Gadanha,

Estremoz, Portugal 294Merivale, Sydney 48 – 49 Mexico 235 Mexico City 235 Miami 73, 305, 306 Milan 70 Mimet, Tokyo 318 Miura, Yuichiro 89Model Milk, Calgary 293 Mokka Kaffi, Reykjavik 311 Molke 7, Gunzwil, Switzerland 40 – 41Monaco 85, 237 Monte Carlo 237 Montréal 307 Mousegraphics, Athens 63Moyle, David 229 Munich 110, 307

NNakahora Bokujou,

Kitakami Mountains, Japan 34 – 35 Naschmarkt, Vienna 132 – 133 Netherlands 234 New York 55, 59, 79, 80, 82, 86, 93,

110, 240, 308, 309 New Zealand 36 – 37, 49, 65, 113,

231, 289, 290, 324

Ng, Joshua 243 Ningyocho Imahan, Tokyo 319 Nobu Berkeley St, London 84 Nobu Miami Beach at Eden Roc,

Miami 73 Nora Gray, Montréal 307 Norway 128 – 129, 310 Nougat 24 – 25

OOkomeya, Tokyo 156 – 157 Okutan, Aylin 249 Oldroyd, London 228 Oldroyd, Tom 228Olisur, San Jose de Marchigue,

Chile 26 – 27 Olive, Wellington 324 Olive oil 26 – 27Orlandi, Rossana 70Ortolana, Auckland 289 Osaka 57, 58 – 59Oslo 128 – 129, 310 Osteria Oggi, Adelaide 288 Oyster Inn, The, Auckland 289

PPA & Co, Stockholm 314 Paddlers Coffee, Tokyo 320 Padstow, UK 54Paludetto, Thierry 237 Papilles, Osaka 57 Paradiso, Geneva 295 Paris 148 – 149, 158, 310, 311Pawson, John 77 Peru 114, 230 Petra Mora, Madrid 176 – 177 Pignon, Tokyo 46 –47 Pilcher, Nancy 88 Pink Moon Saloon, Adelaide 288 Ploughgate Creamery,

Fayston, USA 30 – 31Poland 323, 324 Porteño, Sydney 317 Portland, Maine 246 Portland, Oregon 52 – 53 Portugal 110, 172 – 173, 245, 294, 300 Prawn on the Lawn, London 54Provence 75 PTT Family, Jakarta 48 – 49Puebla 109, Mexico City 235

RRegensburg, Germany 62 – 63Reykjavík 311 Rio de Janeiro 112, 312 River Café, The, London 78Robuchon, Joël 85 Rogers, Ruth 78Rome 92, 115 Rose, Anthony 241 Rose and Sons on Queen St,

Toronto 241 Russ & Daughters Café, New York

80, 111

SSake no Hana, London, 77 Salt 20 – 21 Sam James Coffee Bar,

Toronto, Canada 322 San Anselmo 74 San Francisco 154 – 155, 248,

312, 313 San Jose de Marchigue 26 – 27Scaldaferro, Dolo, Italy 24 – 25Schweitzer Project, South Tyrol,

Italy 53 Sea Horse, Helsinki 232 Seifi, Mahdi 244 Seivo, Eetu 232Seoul 117 Sightglass Coffee, San Francisco 312 Simpson, Danny 231Simpson, John 91 Singapore 313 Smile to Go, New York 240 Smith, Arlin 246Snails 42 – 43 Sorrentino, Paolo 92 Sourced Grocer, Brisbane 52 – 53 South Africa 294 South Korea 117 South Tyrol 38 – 39, 53 Spain 58 – 59, 118, 130 – 131, 159,

176 – 177, 303 St John Bakery, London 166 Staibano, Amalfi, Italy 64 – 65 Stewart, Martha 82 Stockholm 60 – 61, 118, 314, 315 Stockmann Herkku, Helsinki 174 – 175 Sturehof, Stockholm 315 Suffolk 90 Supernormal, Melbourne, 46 – 47,

304 Sweden 60 – 61, 118, 314, 315Switzerland 40 – 41, 50 – 51, 160 –

161, 295, 325Sydney 48 – 49, 50 – 51, 72, 76, 88,

124 – 125, 150 – 151, 233, 238, 315, 316, 317

TTadich Grill, San Francisco 248 Talese, Gay 86Tawlet, Beirut 292 Taylor, Andrew 24610 William St, Sydney 317Thailand 114, 168 – 169, 290, 291 Tierenteyn-Verlent,

Ghent, Belgium 163Toff’s, London 68, 111Tokyo 46 – 47, 89, 110, 152 – 153,

156 – 157, 170 – 171, 318, 319, 320, 321

Top Paddock, Melbourne 304 Toronto 146 – 147, 241, 321, 322 Trento, Italy 56 – 57Turkey 113, 164 – 165, 249, 298, 29928 Hong Kong St, Singapore 31327 Restaurant and Bar,

Miami 305

UUezu, Toshihiro 82UK 51, 54, 60 – 61, 68, 71, 77, 78,

83, 84, 90, 91, 119, 136 – 137, 144 – 145, 166, 228, 244, 247, 300, 301, 302

Union Square Farmers’ Market, New York 93

USA 20 – 21, 30 – 31, 32 – 33, 52 –53, 55, 59, 73, 74, 79, 80, 82, 86, 93, 110, 138 – 139, 154 – 155, 240, 246, 248, 297, 302, 305, 306, 308, 309, 312, 313

VValencia 58 – 59, 118 Van Leeuwen Ice Cream, New York 55 Vancouver 47, 126 – 127 Vanha Kauppahalli,

Helsinki 134 – 135Victor Churchill, Sydney 150 – 151 Vienna 117, 132 – 133, 167, 242, 323Vietnam 28 – 29, 116Vila Viniteca, Barcelona 159

WWarsaw 323, 324Waters, Alice 93Wellington 65, 324Wenders, Wim 69Wiegel, Bas 234Wiley, Mike 246 Wine-making 56 – 57

YYardbird, Hong Kong 296 Yoshi, Monaco 85 Yu, Jowett 239

ZZum Schwarzen Kameel,

Vienna 117, 242 Zupan’s Markets, Portland,

Oregon 52 – 53 Zürich 50 – 51, 160 – 161, 325