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34THE SHIFT FOUNDATION3 TO 6X AND 7 TO 14 . . . .718Shift Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .718Princess Styleline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .719Princess Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .719

Darts and Dart Equivalents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .721

Empire with Flare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .722Empire Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .722

TENT FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .724

Tent Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .724

Bib TentA Variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .725

Bib Tent Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .725

Torso Jumper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .726

Torso Jumper Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .726

Dresses

and Jumperschapter

717

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718 Chapter 34

THE SHIFT FOUNDATION3 TO 6X AND 7 TO 14The shift draft is based on the basic bodice patterns. The shift foundation is the base for designs such as theprincess, empire, and torso-length dresses, to which gathered or pleated skirts are attached.

Shift DraftFigures 1,2 Trace front and back patterns and all markings,

including darts.

Extend center front line to the desired lengthand square across and up to the armhole.

Square across the back pattern to the armhole andsquare down equal to side length of the front.

Square across the hem and up to center back.

Mark a point 1/2 to 3/4 inch in from mid-pointof the side seam. Label X.

Add 1 1/2 to 2 inches out at the side seams for anA-line silhouette. Mark a point 1/4 inch up anddraw a curved hemline.

1/2 " to 3/4 "Blend Blend

BACK FRONT

SHIFT FOUNDATIONSHIFT FOUNDATION

4 " 3 "

1 1/2 " to 2 "

X X

1/4 "

Waist

Hip

Waist

Hip

Figure 1 Figure 2

Draw side seam from hem to Point X, and con-nect to the armhole, as illustrated. Blend at X.

Cut the front shift from paper.

Darts. Extend lines through center of the darts tolength indicated. Draw dart legs to waistline.

Cut the patterns from the paper.

Complete the patterns for the test fit.

The basic sleeve completes the pattern set (see

pages 704 and 705 for sleeve draft).

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DRESSES AND JUMPERS 719

Princess StylelineThe princess styleline is an appropriate foundationfor sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14.

Design Analysis

The princess styleline (to mid-shoulder or to mid-armhole) is a popular base for a variety of designs.(Decrease the dart intake to half the amount forsuch designs.) Flare can be added to each panel(from the waist) or to any point along the goreline.Godets are also a source of flare (see pages 284285).Flare is part of the shift pattern. Add additional flareto the side seams, to balance the design, if necessary.Designs 1 and 2 are but a few of the ideas that canbe developed from the princess pattern.

Design 1

BACK FRONT

Figure 1 Figure 2

Design 2

Princess DraftFigures 1, 2

Trace the front and back shift patterns.

Plot the style from the mid-shoulder andthe mid-armhole (uneven broken lines).The styleline touches the dart point.

Draw lines from the dart points to hem,

parallel to front and back center lines.

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720 Chapter 34

BACK

Panel

Back

Side

Panel

Blend Blend

Addflare

Addflare

Addflare

Figure5 Figure6

FrontPanel

FrontSidePanel

BlendBlend

Add

flareAdd

flare

Add

flare

Figure 3 Figure 4Figures 3,4, 5,6

Cut patterns apart along princess line. The waistdart is cut out.

Trace the patterns and add flare (width as de-sired). The flare is equal to each side of the frontand back panels. Add to the side seam to balance

the design, if necessary.

Blend line through the waist area for a loose fit.If a closer fit is desired, follow the dart legs.

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Darts and Dart EquivalentsThe basic front and back bodice patterns containdarts. Darts, which provide excess, are best used informs other than stitched darts for children sizes 3to 6X. The dart excess can be controlled with elastic

or ties to help define the nebulous area designatedas the waistline, if a waistline must be defined (seeDesigns 1 and 2).

Yoke stylelines and those that rest relatively nearthe armholes (such as the empire) provide the great-est freedom, the best proportion, and a high degreeof flexibility in fit without the need for darts (see De-signs 3 and 4). Darts are primarily used in designs tohelp define the developing bustline for girls sizes 7to 14 (see Design 5 and Design 6).

Empire with flare and leg-o-mutton sleevefollows.

Design 3

Design 4

Design5Design6

Design 1 Design 2

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722 Chapter 34

Empire with FlareThe shift foundation is the base for designs with stylelines passing under the bust line and for those not havinga waistline seam. The bodice darts are generally not stitched for empire designs for sizes 3 to 6X (see page 721,Designs 3 and 4).

Design Analysis

Designs 5 and 6 are for sizes 7 to 14. The empire styleline is plotted through an open dart. Slash lines aremarked on the lower pattern, where flare and a pleat give the skirt its fullness. For sleeve options, see Chapter 33.A leg-o-mutton sleeve completes the design.

Empire DraftFigures 1 a, b Front

Trace the front shift pattern. Mark darts.

Plot the pattern, using illustration, de-sign, size, and height of the model as aguide.

Empire Styleline

Mark bust point (not dart point) and markhalf the dart length to the waist. Label X.Square a guideline from center front toside seam, touching X.

Draw the empire curved styleline aboutone-third the distance between neckand waist. Start at the center front up tothe dart leg X. Continue the empirestyleline from the other dart leg (at the

same length distance), curving the style-line to side seam. (AB) Take in 1/4 to1/2 at the side (a).

Measure out 1/8 from each dart leg at theempire styleline (closer fit) and redrawdart legs to dart point.

Mirror bust dart below styleline (brokenlines).

Back

Trace the back pattern and trim 1/4

(eliminating shoulder ease) from shoul-der tip, blending to armhole curve.

Plot the pattern as illustrated (b).

CD AB (front pattern).

Add a 3/4 inch extension at center back.

Cut and separate front and back patterns.

Underbust

Sla

sh

Sla

sh

Slash

B

A

Boxp

lea

t

1/3 to waist

1/2 "

1 "

FRONT

Figure 1a

Sla

sh

Sla

sh

Slash

Slash

C

D

3/4 "

1 "

BACK

Figure 1b

FRONTBACK

Cu

to

nfold

Figure 2c Figure 2d

Figures 2 c,d

Trace the front and back empire bodice. The

shaded area is a facing guide.

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Figure 4

Prepare paper for the folded pleat. Square a linerepresenting the waist and hemline. Draw a cen-ter front line B. Measure out 1 inch from B lineand 2 1/2 inches at the hemline. Draw connect-ing lines, as shown. Fold on the C line to A line.

Place the lower pattern on the foldline of thefolded pleat. Trace to the first dart leg and at thehemline.

Figure 5 Remove the skirt and slash. Return the pattern.

Close the dart leg and secure slashed pieces. Theopen space AB can be repeated at each slashedline with half the amount added to the side seam(CD equals half of AB). Trace the remainingouter lines of the slashed pattern.

Use tracing wheel across the folded pleat and add1/2-inch seams at the empire styleline.

Sweep of the back skirt equals the front skirtwithout the pleat (not illustrated).

Complete the patterns and test fit.

Add seams to all patterns.

Figures 6 a, bLeg-of-Mutton Sleeve

Trace the basic sleeve to preferred length anddraw slash lines (a).

Cut and slash the lines. Spread, as shown (b).

Retrace and add seams.

Cen

ter

Fron

t

Fo

ldli

ne

Fo

ldli

ne

1 "1 "

2-1/2 " 2-1/2 " Hemline

Waistline

ABC

Paper's edge

Paper's edgeFigure 4

FRONTB

lend

Cen

ter

Fron

t

Closedart

Fo

ldli

ne

Fo

ldli

ne

D

A

B

C

Figure5

A 2 " 2 "

3 "

3 " 3 "

3 "

Gra

inline

AB

4 "

E

( a )

B

( b)

Figure6a Figure6b

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724 Chapter 34

TENT FOUNDATIONThe tent foundation is appropriate for girls sizes 3to 6X and 7 to 14. The basic tent is based on the shiftfoundation (page 718).

Tent DraftFigure 1 Trace the front and back shift. Mark dart for ref-

erence of the bust point and waist level for use asguidance for possible styleline placements.

Plot slashes from hem to curve of the armhole.

Cut slashes to, but not past, curve line of thearmhole. Spread the hem from 3 to 5 inches.

Retrace and add flare to the side seam that is one-

half, or one-third of the spread area. Draw theside seam, blending just above the waistline.

Repeat instructions for the back pattern.

Front and Back Tent Patterns

Figures 2,3

Add seams and extend the centerback, 3/4". Cut and test fit.

Add flare

Spread

Figure 1

BACK FRONT

3/4 "

F

old

Example

Figure 2 Figure 3

AssignmentSuggestionCreate a block design for thefront and back tentfoundation. An example isshown, but the blocking canbe varied: color circles,rectangles, abstract shapes,appliqus, tie dye, lace insets,mixed fabric textures, handpainted designs, etc. Sleevesand collars can be added.Display the tent designs forclassroom discussion. Whatmade each design work andwhat could be improved?

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Bib TentA VariationDesign Analysis

Fullness is gathered along the upper bust line, underthe bust, and parallel above the hemline. Gathers fitto the models body except at the hemline, where

gathers are less to allow for an A-line silhouette. A tapesecures hem gathers.

Bib Tent DraftFigure 1 Trace thefront andback tent foundation patterns.

Plot stylelines (in blue) on both the front and back.

Choose skirt length and the gather guideline.

Cut shoulder straps 1 1/2 22. Trim to fit.

Front

AB 3 more or less, and square across the pattern.Label C.

BD BC.

EF Aligned with under-bust location.

Square a line across the pattern.

FG 1/2. Draw line to dart leg.

Back

HI EG.Square from center back to this mark.

BACK FRONT

3 " down

A

BC

E

F

G 1/2 "

H

I

Gather guidelines

3/4 " 3/4 "

Facing is shaded area

Gather

Gather

Gather

Gather

Gather

Gather

D

Figure 1

Stitching Suggestion

Overlock seams at hem and acrosschest.

Stitch flat lace or rickrack trim toedges.

Gathering 2 to 3 rows with elasticthread will fit the body shape.

Threads pulled for gathers willneed a tape on the back of eachrow to secure fit.

Complete the pattern for a test fit.

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726 Chapter 34

Torso JumperThe dartless pattern is used as a base for dresses not havinga waistline. It is appropriate for sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14.

Design Analysis

Design has low-cut armholes and neckline. The back isbased on the front pattern. If the necklines vary, trace thefront pattern to design the back neckline.

Torso Jumper DraftFigure 1

Trace the dartless front pattern.

Plot the pattern, using the illustration, design, size,and height of the model as a guide. Follow blue lines.

Mark torso and square across.

Add width to the skirt for gathers, as desired.

Cut patterns from paper and separate the pattern parts(A for upper torso and B for skirt).

Back

Retrace front torso pattern for back jumper, shiftingthe shoulder strap toward the back (broken lines).

Complete the pattern for a test fit.

Cu

to

nfold

FRONT

A

B

Waist

2 to 1 fullness

Strap forback

Separate

bodicefrom

skirt (B)

patten

Pocket wider at topTrace from pattern

Figure 1

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034 Capitulo 34