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022000Biehl 4
INCI: Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Spreading value: 1600 mm2 / 10 min
Sensory feeling: dry, volatile silicon oil like
Skin compatibility: excellent
Stability: hydrolysis stable
Origin: vegetable (fatty alcohol)
Biodegrability: yes
It‘s personnel data
022000Biehl 5
What can it do for you?
Skin CleansingSkin Cleansing
Deodorants / APsDeodorants / APs
Sun CareSun CareSkin CareSkin Care
022000Biehl 6
Superior skin compatibility
ADVANTAGES:
Sk
in C
are
Smoothes the skin
Dry, silicon oil like skin feel
Fast spreading emollient
Good emulsifiability
022000Biehl 7
Fast spreading emollient
Sk
in C
are
Smoothness
Time
Cetiol® PGL
Cetiol® J 600
Cetiol® CC
022000Biehl 8
Emollient INCI Spreading Value [mm2/10 min]
Cyclomethicone > 2600 highCetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 1600Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 1600
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 750 mediumCetiol® PGL Hexyldecanol/Hexyldecyl Laurate 750Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 600Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 550
Cetiol® J 600 Oleyl Erucate 350 slowAlmond Oil Prunus Dulcis 200
Spreading Values
Sk
in C
are
022000Biehl 9
Superior skin compatibilityMethod: Human Patchtest, 20 % AS in cosmetic alcohol
Sk
in C
are
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Irritation Score (Erytheme)
Ce
tio
l® C
C
IPM N-Hexadecan
022000Biehl 10
Emulsifiability of different emollients
Sk
in C
are
Ingredients INCI w/w%
Eumulgin® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 4.5Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin
Emollient 16.0Carbopol 2 % Carbomer 15.0KOH 20 % Kaliumhydroxide 0.6Water Aqua 63.9
022000Biehl 11
Good emulsifiability
magnification 400 x
50 µm
Droplet Size: E
Droplet Size: D
Droplet Size: C
Sk
in C
are
Standard formulation with Eumulgin® VL 75
Droplet Size: B
Droplet Size: A
022000Biehl 12
Ingredient INCI Droplet Size
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides A
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate BEutanol® G Octyldodecanol B
Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether CMyritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride C
Paraffinum Liquidum C
Cyclomethicone D
Sk
in C
are
Emulsifiability of different emollients with Eumulgin® VL 75
022000Biehl 13
O/W Emulsion with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/239/6
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Emulgade® PL 68/50 Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.5Amphisol K Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 0.5Cutina® GMS-V Glyceryl Stearate 1.0Novata® AB Cocoglycerides 1.0Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 5.0Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 1.0Siliconoil Wacker AK 350 Dimethicone 0.5
Carbopol 980 Carbomer 0.3Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 6.0
Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0KOH 20 % Potassium Hydroxide 0.6Perfume, Preservative q.s.Water Aqua 74.1
Sk
in C
are
022000Biehl 14
W/O Emulsion with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/244/3
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 3.0Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 1.0Zincum N29 Zinc Stearate 1.0Cetiol® A Hexyl Laurate 6.0Cetiol® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.0Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 1.0Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 8.0
Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0MgSO4
.7H2O Magnesium Sulfate 1.0
Perfume, Preservative q.s.Water Aqua 69.0
Sk
in C
are
022000Biehl 15
ADVANTAGES:
Su
n C
are
Solubility for crystalline UV filter
Dispersing performance for pigments
Increase of UV absorption
SPF enhancing capacity
Balanced sensory due to spreading ability
022000Biehl 16
Sp
read
ing
fast
slow
Solubilitylittle high
Su
n C
are
Solubility for crystalline UV filter & Spreading performance
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Cetiol® OE Cetiol® CC
Myritol® 331
Cyclomethicone
022000Biehl 17
Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C
Solubility for crystalline UV filter
Su
n C
are
Solubility [%]
0
5
10
15
20
25
Cet
iol®
CC
Cyclo-methicone
Butyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
C12-15
Alkyl BenzoateMyritol® 331
022000Biehl 18
Su
n C
are
Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C
Solubility for crystalline UV filter
C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate
Myritol® 3310
5
10
15
20
25
30C
etio
l® C
C 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
Solubility [%]
Cyclo-methicone
022000Biehl 19
Su
n C
are
Dispersing performance for pigments
A C
METHOD:Titanium dioxide was dispersed into the emollient understirring without homogenisation(80 parts Emollient + 20 parts Titanium Dioxide(Titanium Dioxide T 805, Degussa))
The pigment dispersion was assessed by microscopeexamination and viscosity behaviour
022000Biehl 20
Su
n C
are
Viscosity & Homogeneity of Pigment Dispersions
Emollient Viscosity Homogeneity (mPas)
Myritol 331 / Cocoglycerides 14 000 A
Cetiol® CC / Dicaprylyl Carbonate 9 000 B
Cetiol PGL / Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 9 000 B
Paraffinum Liquidum 8 000 C
Cetiol OE / Dicaprylyl Ether 3 000 C
Cyclomethicone 3 000 C
022000Biehl 21
Su
n C
are
Formula for SPF determination Rec. DE 97/062/1
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Emollient 16.0Neo Heliopan E 1000 Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 6.4Neo Heliopan BB Benzophenone-3 1.6Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 1.0Carbopol® ETD 2001 Carbomer 0.3Eumulgin® VL 75 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, 3.5
Lauryl Glucoside, GlycerinGlycerin 86 % Glycerin 3.0Water Aqua 67.5KOH 20 % Potassium Hydroxide 0.7Perfume, preservative q.s.
022000Biehl 22
SPF enhancing capacity
Su
n C
are
Result: In a given formulation the substitution of Mineral oilby Cetiol® CC increases the SPF in vitro by > 100 %
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
SPF in vitro (Labsphere)
Paraffinum Liquidum
Cet
iol®
CC
022000Biehl 23
Su
n C
are
O/W Sun Lotion with Cetiol® CC SPF > 20 (est.)Rec. DE 99/095/10
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Eumulgin® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 4.0Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin
Lanette® E Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 1.0Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 12.0Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 10.0Neo Heliopan AV Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5Neo Heliopan 303 Octocrylene 9.0Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 5.0Veegum Ultra Magnesium Aluminium Silicate 1.5Keltrol T Xanthan Gum 0.5
Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 3.0Hydagen® B Bisabolol 0.5Water Aqua 46.0Perfume, Preservative q.s.
022000Biehl 24
W/O Sun Blocker with Cetiol® CC SPF 30 (est.) Rec. DE 99/095/14
Su
n C
are
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.0Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 2.0
Beeswax 3.0Zinc Stearate 1.0
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 11.0Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 10.0Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 15.0
Isostearic Acid 1.0Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 2.0
Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0Water Aqua 44.5MgSO4·7 H2O Magnesium Sulfate 1.0
Hydagen® B Bisabolol 0.5Perfume, Preservative q.s.
022000Biehl 25
De
od
ora
nts
/ A
Ps
Can be used forSprayable Antiperspirant PIT formulae
Transparent Antiperspirant Gels
Antiperspirant Cremes & Roll on
Suspensions Antiperspirant Sticks
Performance in stick formulations:Gives a special dry, powdery & silky skin feeling
Reduces white residues
ADVANTAGES:
022000Biehl 26
De
od
ora
nts
/ A
Ps
Evaluation of AP/Deo Sticks with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/250/30
Evaluation:
Dicaprylyl Carbonate 65
Hydroxystearic Acid 10 Market formula
Rezal 36 GP 25
Hardness ++ ++Gloss (Stick surface) yes noSensorial feeling excellent goodWhite residue (in vitro) no littleWhite residue (in vivo) less yes
022000Biehl 28
Sk
in C
lean
sin
g
METHOD:Development of benchmark formula which is similar interms of ingredients & percentage to standard market formulations
Substitution of emollient in this formula to evaluate their cleansing properties
Product quantity: 1.0 g Milk
Defined application
Evaluation in comparison to benchmark
ADVANTAGES:Improvement of cleansing abilities of make-up remover
022000Biehl 29
Sk
in C
lean
sin
g
Benchmark formula for Skin Cleansing Test
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6.0(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) CetearylAlcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate
Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5Mineraloil Paraffinum Liquidum 7.5IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 7.5
Water Aqua 78.5Perfume, Preservative q.s.
022000Biehl 30
Sk
in C
lean
sin
g
Reference Formula for Skin Cleansing Test
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6.0(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) CetearylAlcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate
Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5Mineral Oil Paraffinum Liquidum 6.0IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 6.0Emollient 3.0
Water Aqua 78.5Perfume, Preservative q.s.
022000Biehl 32
Sk
in C
lean
sin
g
Cegesoft® C24
Cetiol® LC
Myritol® PC
Benchmark
Cyclomethicone
Cetiol® A
Make-up remover efficacy
reduced improved
Cetiol® CC
Cetiol® OE
022000Biehl 35
Dry, volatile silicon oil like skin feel
O/W - Rec. 99/239/6 (with Cetiol® CC) vs. Rec. 99/239/4 (with Cyclomethicone = 0-Line); n = 10 human volunteers, pair comparison test
Pick-up
Consistency
Peaking
Cushion
Distribution
Absorption I
Absorption II
Smoothness
Tackiness
Oiliness
Waxiness
Powdery
good
high
high
much
easy
fast
fast
high
little
little
little
much
less good
low
little
little
difficult
slow
slow
little
much
much
much
little
2101 2Sk
in C
are
022000Biehl 36
De
od
ora
nts
/ A
Ps
Sprayable Antiperspirant with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/237/1
Ingredients INCI w/w %
Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 4.1(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) CetearylAlcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate
Eumulgin® B 2 Ceteareth-20 0.9Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5.0Cetiol® LC Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 5.0Water Aqua 30.0
Locron L 50 % Aluminum Chlorohydrate 40.0Water Aqua 15.0Perfume, Preservative q.s.