01M Filter Change - Kansas City TDI

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    01M Filter Change

    First of all pull the skid plate . Then with an a llen wrench remove the drain plug.

    Then put the allen wrench up in the hole the drain plug came out of, and remove the

    stand pipe. This is to drain the pan thoroughly.

    For more information, or to s chedule an

    appointment please email us at:[email protected]

    How To:

    01M Filter Change

    01M Valve Body Removal and Reinstalation

    01M Transmission Removal and Reinstallation

    01M Torque Converter Installed Depth

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    This is wha t the stand pipe looks like after you remove it. The stand pipe is

    orange in this pic.

    There is a bracket to protect the front of the trans pan tha t I didnt get a picture

    of. It has four 16mm bolts. Remove it to get access to the front two pan bolts.

    Then use a 10 mm socket to pull out the 4 pan bolts.

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    Then youll see the filter. Just grab it and pull it off. Sometimes you may find it sitting

    in the pan. Dont worry, the pan holds it in place, and it just fell out when you

    removed the pan.

    When you pull the filter out, usua lly the filter seal (orange) will stay inside the valve

    body. Pry it out with a screwdriver.

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    Dont forget to remove your old filter seal or youll end up with two of them in

    there. This was a valve body someone shipped to me and whoever serviced it

    before just shoved the new filter up in there with the new seal and left the old one in

    there too.

    Make sure your new filter comes with a filter seal then seat it up into the valve body.

    Clean the pan out thoroughly.

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    In my hand are the torque limiters (spacers) that go inside the holes that the pan

    bolts pass through. They limit the amount of crush on the pan gasket. Some of the

    new gaskets do not come with them so you must change them over into the new

    gasket. To do this, just sit the gasket on a hard surface, sit the spacer on the hole

    then shove it in with the handle end o f a screwdriver. A little lube doesnt hurt either.

    If you leave these out, the pan w ill leak.

    Heres a new ga sket with no spacers in it.

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    Heres one in the pan gasket

    Break open the filter. They are rea l good at trapping broken pieces. The pump

    suction pulls stuff up in there. So if you dont break it open you might be missing

    some evidence of damage. This one the trans is shot!

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    Also take a good look into the pan. Use a flashlight to look for metal or clutch

    material. This one ha s a b roken chunk, but notice the fine metal in the bottom where

    there is no fluid. This trans is sho t even without the chunk.

    Expect the fluid to be dark. This just means it needs changed, but if its

    burnt, then you may have some clutch damage inside the trans. Expect the magnet

    to have a little fuzz on it. This trans w as Ok, it just needed a little luvin on the valve

    body. See Failure Analysis page for clutch damage pics.

    Well if you get the filter sea l out, put a new filter in with a seal on it, put the torque

    limiters into the new gasket, seat the gasket on the pan properly (meaning even),

    then tighten the pan, by hand. Understand that over tightening the pan bolts will not

    crush the gasket more. All over tightening will do is rip the threads out of the case

    which will then necessitate insta lling a heli-coil in the pan bo lt hole. So tighten till the

    torque limiter is squeezed then go about 1/8 turn more.

    Reassemble as you took it apart then follow the correct fill sequence.

    In the lower left you see the fill tube. Its accessed from under the car. To get to it

    youll have to have the belly pan/skid plate off, thenremove the protective bracket at

    the front of the trans, then break the red cap off. Youll need a new red cap. Then

    youll need some kind of pump to pump the fluid up into the fill tube o r a funnel with a

    hose on it to pipe it down to the fill tube.

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    All this is very annoying to me so I fill this trans through the g38 hole. To fill through

    the G38 hole just remove the breather, then remove the bolt to the sensor and pull

    out the G38. No need to uplug it, but dont yank on the wires. Use a long pair of

    needle nose or just work it out gently with your hands.

    Then using a long transmission style funnel, then pour in the fluid. The ba ttery is

    out in this pic but it doesnt need to be .

    FILL PROCEDURE

    Its slightly different than you might find elsewhere. OEM procedure isnt wrong but

    its confusing and lots of folks end up slightly low. With filter change youll need 3

    liters but its best to have 4 on hand just in case. With valve body change youll

    probably need 4 liters but its best to have 5 on hand just in case. Quite a bit of the

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    converter fluid will drain out when the valve body is pulled. A complete fill with an

    empty trans and empty converter is 5.3 liters according to the book. A

    used trans will never be empty though.

    1. Car must be cold, and level. I do this on the ground.

    2. After pan drop install filter and s tand pipe. Then put check/drain plug in a few turns

    by hand.

    3. Pour in 3 liters.

    4. Install scan tool, turn key on and get scan tool communicating with trans computer.

    5. Start engine.

    6. Pull up data for trans temp.

    7. If trans was just replaced then put in another 3 liters. If you just serviced it then

    pull check plug and immediately re-install it. If fluid doesnt come out add another

    1/2 liter. The pump will be filling the converter w ith fluid from the pan and you dont

    want the pan to run dry. I use a small shallow pan to keep fluid from running on

    the floor.

    8. When data show s 35 degrees Celsius then pull check plug. Allow fluid to drain out

    till it is not a steady stream anymore. Meaning when if starts glugging instead of

    running out in a steady stream, then reinstall the plug and tighten it.

    #8 is whe re I think folks go wrong. They leave the check plug out till fluid stops

    running out and this makes the trans slightly low. What you need to understand is

    that there are fluid pressure exhausts on the valve body and spinning components in

    the main body of the trans. Both of these w ill throw fluid into the pan making waves

    and splashes. So the fluid will continue to drip out even when fluid is low, below the

    stand pipe. The waves and splashes make fluid keep coming out. Dont do

    this. Watch for the first glug then plug it.

    If you used my method of top filling through the G38 its likely you triggered a MAF

    code, so clear it and reassemble the top and your done.

    For more information, or to schedule an

    appointment please email us at:

    [email protected]

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