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Fiona Brijnath, DirectorNinestone, South Zeal, Devon EX20 2PZ

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01837 840640email fiona@farfrontiers.comfiona@arcturusexpeditions.co.uk

update | April 2018

At last Spring is underwayand I’m full of enthusiasm

for everything we are addingthis year. It was great to beback in Oman recently to reccenew places to see and stay and I hope you find my trip report on pages 2 and 3 of interest.Sri Lanka continues to be verypopular with clients as thefeedback on page 4 shows.Nearly a decade on from theend of the civil war, it’swonderful to see tourismbusinesses thriving in thisspectacular country.Myanmar too remains anoutstanding destination,despite some of the newsheadlines, and there are somewonderful experiences to behad there. Tourists are notallowed to travel near theborder area with Bangladeshand the itineraries we suggestare in areas where the Foreignand Commonwealth Officedeems travelling to be safe.Thousands of people inMyanmar depend on tourismfor their living and I believethat exposure to theinternational community is amore positive way to changeopinion than leaving thecountry in isolation.As you read this issue I’ll havebeen on board Sea Spirit for afive day ‘seminar at sea’ fromthe Cape Verde Islands to theCanary Islands – more aboutthat later in the year!

LAOS TO CHINACruise the Mekong on the new Sabei Pandaw – page5

ALL AROUNDNEWFOUNDLAND

Autumn colours on our epic circumnavigation – page 4

HEAD SOUTHThrilling voyages in Scott’s wake to the Ross Sea and Subantarctic Islands – page 4

Oman is a place I can return to again and again. There is just somethingabout it, and it was a perfect choice for my family over the Christmas break, withvariety and interest for all my boys. There’s an established and growing range ofsophisticated hotels, particularly in the mountainous interior. I hope mymemories, snapshots and recommendations here will inspire you to visit.

proportions that exudes spiritual calm and its 8.5 tonchandelier and immense carpet are among thelargest in the world. As one of the only mosques inOman to allow non-Muslim visitors it will give you awonderful insight into Islam.

» atmosphere « Immersing ourselves in the souk atMuttrah to bargain for gifts to bring home – from

elaborate silver daggers and intricateBedouin scarves to frankincense.

The fish market was fantastic, itwas endlessly fascinating watchingOmanis haggling over the catch ofthe day.

Dining under the stars at thesuperlative Kargeen Arabicrestaurant. Kargeen is the old Omani

word for a little wooden cottage and it is a delightfulblend of Eastern style with classical Westernculture – the food is to die for!

» new addition «Just opened in Muscat is the five starKempinski Hotelwhich sits along six kilometres of stunning coastline

just west of the city. It’s in the heart of thestylish community of Al Mouj close toexciting retail and dining facilities, a 400-berth marina, and Oman’s only PGA-standard, 18-hole links golf course, designedby Greg Norman! Everything you’d expect ofa world class hotel and more.

» firm favourite « The Chedi Muscat is a trueoasis of stylish contemporary luxury. I like theclub suites in the garden and I get the low down

on special offers and promotions so do ask.

» must do « Dophin watching. We saw more than150 dolphins from our boat. Snorkelling with amother and baby turtle was a very special experience.

» MUSCAT

» memories « After relaxing in the Plaza Lounge atOman’s Muscat Airport while our visas and otherformalities were quickly sorted, we cruised throughimmigration. The Grand Hyatt Hotel proved to be agreat base – superb club lounge,generous suites and excellent food.Great fun was had in the pool (andthe hot tub!)

» must visit « The Sultan QaboosGrand Mosque never fails toastonish. It’s a marvel of gargantuan

}

~

snapshots fromOMAN

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

Grand Hyatt Hotel

Muttrah souk

Nizwa market

The Chedi Muscat

Kempinski Hotel

Kargeen Arabic restaurant

For even grander luxury ona larger scale look nofurther than the nearbyAnantara Al Jabal AkhdarResort. Recently featured

on BBC’s Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond theLobby it sits at 2,000m on the curving rim of a greatcanyon on Oman’s fabledGreen Mountain. Theirclimbing experiences by rope, harness, via ferratasteel cable or zipwire are truly exhilarating.

» MUSANDAM

» stay « Six Senses Zighy Bay Resort is located onthe northern Musandam Peninsula. The setting ofthis indigenous village-style accommodation andprivate marina north west of Muscat is spectacular,with dramatic mountains on one side and the sandybeach of Zighy Bay on the other. A new experience isDhahab, a beautifully restored classic 27m Omanidhow in which you can cruise the Musandam fjords.

» WAHIBA SANDS

» stay « This is for our next visit as the boys will loveit! Just two hours’ drive from Muscat, the luxuryDesert Nights Camp is an ideal base for an ArabianDesert adventure. Explore craggy mountains,endless dunes andcrystal wadis fromyour boutiqueBedouin style tent.

» experience «A camel ride at sunset. Relaxingand pamperingafter a day of dune bashing in thegolden red desert sands of the Wahiba, magicalnights feasting on traditional Omani fare in theflickering glow of the campfire.

So many things to do, we will surely return asa family to explore the desert and Salalah!

» my recommendationsThe best time to travel is October to April.If you’d like to enjoy any or all of theseexperiences do call me or ask to see a copyof our Forts, Wadis and Souqs of Omansuggested itinerary.

can trek towards Jabal Shams, Oman’s highest peakin theAl Hajar mountain range.

» best moment « Swimming at sunset in the infinitypool at The View looking out over the twinkling lightsof Al Hamra.

» stay « Alila Jabal Akhdar, perched 2,000 metresabove sea level in a canyon in the Al HajarMountains, is a haven for adventure travellers andnature lovers wanting a retreat from the desert heatin glorious boutique surroundings. Lots of wood andstone, rooms with balconies, cosy interiors and farreaching views.

Alila Jabal Akhdar

Six Senses Zighy Bay

Anantara Al Jabal Akhdar

Desert Nights Camp

» NIZWA AND THE MOUNTAINS» memories « Nizwa’s colourful and chaotic cattlemarket was a joy after our early start. Should we buy ababy camel or a musket? Neither seemed ideal fortaking back on the plane!

» memories « Rambling through the battlements of 17th century Nizwa Fort, we watched local dancerswield their ancient swords before lunching at thestunningAlila resort.

The mountainous landscape between Muscat and Nizwa is magnificent, we loved the awesomeviews during our two hour drive in a luxurious newLand Cruiser, attentively looked after by ourchauffeur guide.

» our base « The View, Oman's first ‘Eco Luxe’retreat sits at 1,400m across a wide stretch of valleynearAl Hamra. Cabins dotted along a rocky ridgeand an epic pool, great for families. From here you

The ViewWadi al Arbayeen

Dhahab, Six Senses’ new dhow

VOYAGESNew ships, itineraries and ideas

» THE GALAPAGOSVoyages for all tastes

Whether you're a yogi, a photographyenthusiast, a foodie, or fascinated by marinelife, this new dimension on the MV Origin willappeal. For 2018 they’ve introduced specialhealth and wellness, photography, culinary andmarine biology focused cruises. There’s also a10 per cent early bird discount if yourspeciality voyage is booked 180 days or moreprior to departure as well as a free wifi offer(limit applies) on cruise departures from 2 September to 9 December 2018.

» NEWFOUNDLANDCircumnavigation and more

For an Autumn treat, how about taking avoyage right around Newfoundland on board Ocean Endeavour? The trip is 30September -14 October 2018 and is ideallytimed for viewing the spectacular autumncolours and some excellent hiking. If you’relooking further ahead, there’s an early bird saving of 10 per cent on all 2019/20Ocean Endeavour sailings booked before 31 May 2018.

» PATAGONIA New ship

Sail the fjords of Patagonia on a four nightnavigation between Punta Arenas and Ushuaiaon the newly-launched 210 passenger VentusAustralis. Specially designed to navigate throughthe narrow southernmost channels of SouthAmerica, you can also take her eight nightDarwin’s route round trip from either location.

» RGCS RESOLUTEEarly bird discounts

If you book an Antarctic voyage on the stunningnew RGCS Resolute before 30 April 2018 you’llenjoy a £1,100 per person discount for all voyagesfrom November 2018 – March 2019.

Great early bird savings too for Akademik Ioffe andAkademik Sergey Vavilov: Save up to £1,100 perperson on all voyages October 2018 to March 2019.

Contact us for more information.

» SCOTT ANNIVERSARYHead south and celebrate

With the 150th anniversary of Scott’s birth thisyear, what better way to mark Scott 150 thanheading deeply south! In the wake of Scott andShackleton is an extraordinary 35 day voyage onSpirit of Enderby.

» when « 8 January – 11 February 20196 February – 12 March 2019

Ask me for dates for our 2019 Subantarcticislands voyages out of New Zealand exploringthe ‘albatross latitudes’ and the most remoteislands of the Subantarctic.

Look out for me on 6 June 2018 at theDevon and Cornwall Polar Society’s Scott 150 celebration. Arcturus is a sponsor and I’ll be there with a stand. More atwww.devonandcornwallpolarsociety.org.uk.

ANTARCTICA beckons

» ICELAND, JAN MAYEN AND SPITSBERGEN Three island paradise

» EAST GREENLANDSailing in Scoresby Sund

This July sees the start of new weekly summersailing adventures with the focus on nature on board the schooner Livet. Seen here inCopenhagen before she has her exteriorrepainted, she was until recently a private yacht in the Caribbean, and before that atraining vessel.

With a crew of four (two navigators, a guide and a cook) looking after a maximum of sixpassengers, Livet will offer exceptional attentionto its guests. Guest accommodation is in twocabins and there are two WCs and a shower.

Explore the ARCTIC

As we went to press there wasvery limited availability on the

Iceland, Jan Mayen andSpitsbergen Three Pearls of

the Arctic voyage sailing 16-28 June 2018.

We’ve also currently got specialoffers on these Greenland

voyages on Sea Spirit:

West Greenland & Disko Bay22-30 May 2018 and 30 May – 6 June 2018

(free local flights)

South & West Greenland andDisko Bay 6-17 June 2018

(free pre-cruise tour).

» JAPAN Heights of attraction

Just opened after months of renovation isthe uppermost observation deck of theiconic Tokyo Tower. ‘Top Deck’ visits mustbe booked in advance – it’s an exciting wayto see this futuristic metropolis.

Also recently opened is the new Mt. FujiWorld Heritage Centre. Learn about itshistory in a stunning building designed byworld-famous Japanese architect ShigeruBan. The exhibitions spiral up five floors andend with a breathtaking panoramic view ofMt. Fuji itself.

» RUSSIANew experiences

There’s a new reason to see St Petersburg, notonly for the treasures of The Hermitage but alsoto visit the largest railway museum in Europe! It’s housed in an old depot of Baltiysky Station.

If you prefer ballet to trains, we can arrange alesson for you at the studio of Diana Vishneva,prima ballerina of the famous Mariinsky Theatreeven if you’ve never danced before!

Whilst in Moscow don’t miss the Museum ofParfum in Stary Arbat. It’s a unique collectionand archive of the world’s great perfumes, withdegustations led by expert guides. A reallyinteresting outing that can only be arranged in advance.

Moscow’s new boutique Moss Hotel doubles as a modern art gallery with artwork for sale on itswalls. It also offers the longest breakfast hours inMoscow – from 4am until 2pm!

Farm shops and farm-to-table restaurants arejust beginning to happen in Russia. Just 120kmfrom Moscow, Mark & Lev in the Tula region isan award-winning ‘locavore’ restaurant offeringcontemporary food using ‘forgotten’ ingredientssourced from their own and local farms. Dinehere after your tour of Yasnaya Polyana, themuseum at Leo Tolstoy’s house or Polenovo,the museum estate of painter Vasily Polenov,which are nearby. Include an overnight stay inthe ‘Bolotov’ datchya hotel.

We can build some of these unusual experiencesinto our week-long Moscow and St Petersburgsuggested itinerary – ask to see a copy.

» SRI LANKA Authentically wild

Gal Oya is a delightful national park of lushevergreen forest and open savannah and, although I didn’t get there on my recent recce, I’d happilyrecommend it to clients looking for somewherewild and less visited. Gal Oya Lodge is a 10bungalow jungle lodge overlooking SenanayakaSamudra, the largest body of water in Sri Lanka,where elephant swim. It is fast being recognisedas one of the leading safari operators, in one ofthe island’s most beautiful and remote settings.

Pure and sereneThe luxury hilltop resort of Santani near Kandy isin one of Sri Lanka's most serenely spectacularregions and the purity of its surroundings iscelebrated in its minimalist architecture. Excellentwellness packages and a world-class spa.

» LAOS and CHINA New cruise coming up

The new RV Sabei Pandaw will cruise theMekong from Laos to China from September2019. Botanists will enjoy the journey throughYunnan, the Southern Chinese province knownas The Kingdom of Plants, once the hunting-ground of George Forrest, one of the greatestof all the ‘plant hunters’.

Combine our Treasures of Laos itinerary withthis Pandaw cruise, culminating in one of ouramazing China overland or cultural itinerariessuch as Great Wall trekking. Perfect for a bigcelebratory trip. How about a champagne picnicat the wall’s Mutianyu section?

» ARGENTINAPolo and wine

May is the perfect time of year to visit theArgentine Northwest with even-temperedsunny days and vibrant autumnal hues. Stay atEstancia Zarate and combine fascinatingpanoramas with the thrill of high goal polo andlearning about high-altitude wines grown inCafayate in the Calchaqui Valley. I have manyother lovely estancias I can recommend if youare keen on wine and horseriding!

Iguazu offerBe among the first to experience the amazingnewAwazi at Iguazu Falls. There’s currently a special offer for stays between 1 April and 31 October 2018 – book three nights and payfor only two (based on double occupancy).

Wa Ale Island Resort in the Mergui Archipelago, recently named as one of the ‘18 Hottest New Hotel Openings for 2018’ by Condé NastTraveller, is due to open this October. I visited the region in 2013 and

loved discovering such a pristine untouched corner of the globe.

» MYANMAR New for 2018

Art of Sand is a newly opened four star resort on Ngapali beach, Myanmar's premierbeach destination. Located on the Bay ofBengal coast in a part of Rakhine State where it is safe to travel, Ngapali is pronounced‘Napally’ and it is said to be named after theItalian city of Naples. We like the look of theirBeach Front deluxe rooms.

}We were amazed we fitted so much in thanks to the excellentitinerary that you put together. We really enjoyed all the places we

went to and the wonderful friendly people we met and it really couldn’t have gone better.~ Helen Clark, Peru, February 2018

}What a fantastic trip – you'd organised it all with such expertise,giving us a varied and exciting programme, full of differentadventures but with time to relax too. And we all LOVED India!We left with such a positive view of the country and its people.Thank you Fiona – it was an unforgettable trip and I know we’vemade really special family memories to enjoy for evermore.~

Ben and Lucy Thomson and family, India, December 2017

}Agents, guides, drivers were very good all round.We loved Estancia Cristina. I did the Fossil Canyon hike

and we did a couple more hikes. Graham loved the horseriding. We were unusual in having three nights. Glad we did.

Lapostolle was wonderful in every sense. The massages were fantasticand the winery visit is amazing, ending up six stories underground in thecellar.~ Mr and Mrs Graham Bell, Argentina and Chile, December 2017

}The service you provided wasexemplary and I have been singing yourpraises. There were a few times during

the trip when I felt a little 'herded' but Ithink that's the price you pay for being in such an inaccessible part ofthe world. All in all, a very enjoyable experience and one I would repeat inthe northern hemisphere again.~Anne Robinson, Jan Mayen to Spitsbergen, May 2017

}Another wonderful trip on the Noorderlicht – thanks in no small part to your excellent organisation. The Aurora Hotel was lovely – a big

bonus was pancakes and coffee at 3pm and an evening buffetincluded with B&B!

We went north over the 70 degree line with superb whale sightings, largenumbers and close by of orcas and humpbacks. Travelling back souththere was some good actual sailing until we hit F8 and hurried to asheltered harbour. Wonderful polar winter light effects with the Northern

Lights on several evenings! The ship, crew and leader were, as always,excellent – a long time since I have eaten so much really good vegetarian food. A very nice groupof people and range of nationalities.~ Jane Hamilton, Sail North Norway, November 2017

}We had a wonderful trip. All the arrangements and transfers went well, andhaving a full night’s sleep in our business class seats made a big difference to

enjoying our first days in Sri Lanka. The hotels were all good in theirdifferent ways and the people charming and affable. We had an

excellent guide who had a good sense of humour.

A highlight was the leopard safari and a quite exceptional sighting of a youngfemale leopard. She stretched out in the road behind our vehicle to rub herface in buffalo urine (or something equally fragrant) for a good five

minutes, giving us all the most wonderful photo opportunity.Several times she looked directly up at us – as the ranger admitted, hewouldn't have liked to be any closer.~Di fisher and Julia Loxton, November 2017, Sri Lanka

}We have had afantastic time, thehotels were beyondexpectation. Lovely, kind, friendly staff.Superb driver too. It is a beautiful island anddefinitely one we intend to visit again – theculture, colour, charm, chaos and peace all memorable. The short sea plane flight (40 mins) we would definitelyrecommend, giving a completely different perspective.~Philip and Sarah Hancock and friends (party of six), Sri Lanka and Maldives, February 2018

your feedback

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See our websites for more client comments on trips that interest you – we’re always adding new feedback!

SOUTHERN CHILE made easyAerolineas Argentinas now flies between Trelewand El Calafate three times a week, so no moreflying back through Buenos Aires if you want tocombine whale watching at Puerto Madryn with theglaciers of Torres del Paine.

If you are considering our Patagonia and Atacama itinerary – Remota Patagonia is wellplaced for exploring the stunning Torres del Paineregion. Sail the Kaweskar Route – a scenic journeybetween islands and archipelagos towards theSouthern Ice Field.

Amazon Star is an in-depth expedition on theAmazon River offering 3, 4 and 7 night cruises withon-board naturalists, lessons in local cuisine andvisits to a village and local market. Watch for pinkdolphins, pygmy marmosets, birds and much more.

If you like trekking, the Salkantay route connectingthe city of Mollepata in Cusco with Machu Picchuis considered to be one of the best in the world.

» snippets «

Machu Picchu OFFERWe’ve a 15 per cent discount on new bookingsfor our Sacred Valley with Lares Valleyadventure in June 2018, visiting Machu Picchuand staying in comfortable mountain lodges.

» PERU What’s new

}It was a fabulous trip.Very pleased with theitinerary, duration, shipchosen and particularlythe quality of theexpedition guides.~Peter Lacey, Antarctica,February 2018

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