01/2011 Long knit jacket

By: burda style magazine

http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/012011-long-knit-jacket

Long knit jacket burda style magazine patterns FAQ

Materials

fine knit fabric

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Step 1 — Preparation

Trace the pattern pieces from the pattern sheet. Note different hem lines for views A and B. Glue pieces 21and 21a together on the joining lines.Seam and hem allowances:View A: seams and edges 1.5 cm (5/8 in), no allowances at hem edges, front edges or outer edge of collar.View B: seams and edges 1.5 cm (5/8 in), hem 4 cm (15/8 ins), sleeve hems 5 cm (2 ins) (flare sleeve hemallow¬ances).

Step 2 — Cutting out

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21â—¯front with collar 2x22â—¯back 2x23â—¯sleeve 2xVilene Bias Tape/stay tape: Iron to shoulder edges of fronts.

Step 3 — Back

Stitch centre back seam. Press seam allowances open.

Step 4 — Darts

On fronts, cut along centre of each dart, about 5 cm (2 ins) long. Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 1).Press seam allowances open.

Step 5 — Collar

Pin centre seam edges of integrated collar pieces together, with wrong sides facing. Stitch centre seam. Trimseam allowance which lies below to 7 mm (1/4 in) wide. Turn in allowance which lies on top and baste inplace. Work from right side to stitch 1 cm (3/8 in) from seam. Beginning at centre back, stitch collar to neckedge and go on to stitch dart. Press allowances of collar joining seam onto back. Press darts toward sides.Trim seam allowances of collar joining seam to 7 mm (1/4 in) wide. Stitch petersham ribbon over seamallowances of collar joining seam, turning ends of ribbon under.

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Step 6 — Sleeves

Stitch side seams and sleeve seams.

Step 7 — Set sleeves

Set in sleeves

Step 8 — Belt

From the leather, cut 2 cm (3/4 in) wide strips, as long as possible. Stitch the strips together to form one beltstrip, 290 â—� 300 â—� 310 â—� 320 â—� 330 cm (114 â—� 118 â—� 122 â—� 126 â—� 130 ins) long.Measure and mark half the length. Use buttonhole thread in a contrasting colour to sew running stitches, 4mm (a generous 1/8 in) long, on one half of belt (outer side), 3 mm (1/8 in) from each lengthwise edge,spacing stitches 6 mm (1/4 in) apart. Fold belt piece over buckle to half the length, wrong side facing in, andglue belt halves together.

Step 9 — Hem allowance

Neaten seam allowances of centre back seam, shoulder seams, side seams, and sleeve seams each togetherand press to one side. Press hem allowances to inside. Stitch hem from right side with the twin needle â—�stitching 3 cm (11/4 ins) from lower edge of jacket and 4 cm (15/8 ins) from lower edges of sleeves. Neatenfront edges and edge of collar with overlock stitch, trimming away allowance.

01/2011 Long knit jacket

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