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New York

W R I T T E N A N D R E S E A R C H E D B Y

Martin Dunford

W I T H A D D I T I O N A L R E S E A R C H B Y

Adrien Glover

DIRECTIONS

www.roughguides.com

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

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NTEN

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ContentsIntroduction 4

Ideas 9The big six sights ............................10Quintessential New York

restaurants....................................12Green New York................................14Ethnic New York ..............................16Museums and galleries ....................18Shopping streets ..............................20Cafés and tearooms ........................22Skyscrapers ....................................24Gourmet food ..................................26Clubs and music venues ..................28Twenty-four-hour New York ..............30Grand hotels ....................................32City views ........................................34Gay New York ..................................36Classic bars ....................................38Reasons to leave the island..............40Kids’ New York ................................42New York food ..................................44Film and TV locations ......................46Literary landmarks ..........................48Gourmet restaurants ........................50Churches and synagogues ..............52New York on the cheap ....................54Concert halls ....................................56Shopping..........................................58Breakfast and brunch spots..............60Parades and annual events ..............62

Places 65Battery Park and the

Harbor Islands ..............................67The Financial District........................70City Hall Park and TriBeCa ................79Chinatown and Little Italy ................85SoHo ................................................91

The Lower East Side ........................97The East Village..............................103Greenwich Village ..........................112Chelsea and the Garment District ..121Union Square, Gramercy Park,

and Murray Hill ..........................128Times Square and the

Theater District ..........................135Midtown East ................................144Central Park ..................................155The Upper East Side ......................161The Upper West Side ......................171Harlem and above ..........................180The Outer Boroughs ......................186

Accommodation 199Hotels ............................................201Hostels and YMCAs ........................209B&Bs and serviced apartments ......210

Essentials 213Arrival ............................................215Information ....................................216City transportation..........................217City tours ......................................218Money............................................219Phones, mail, and email ................219Festivals and holidays ....................220Directory ......................................221

Index 223

Colour MapsManhattanMTA New York City SubwayMidtown ManhattanDowntown Manhattan

3

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Introduction to

New YorkThe most enthralling city inthe world, New York holdsimmense romantic appeal forvisitors.There’s no place quitelike it: it’s historic, yet its

buildings and monuments are icons of the modernage; the dizzy maelstrom of its streets andneighborhoods is famously – and fantastically –relentless, but it has some of the most peaceful urbangreen spaces in the world.Whether you’re gazing atthe flickering lights of lower Manhattan’s skyscrapersfrom the Brooklyn Bridge, experiencing the 4am half-life of SoHo or the East Village, or just wasting themorning on the Staten Island ferry, you really wouldhave to be made of stone not to be moved by it all.

Pretty much any time is a good time to visit New York. Winters here can bebitingly cold, but the city can be delightful in November andDecember during the run-up to Christmas, when the treesare lit up with fairy lights and shops stay open extra-late.The weather is at its coldest in January and February,but there can be great flight bargains at this time ofyear, and in any case New York has some wonderfulcrisp and clear sunny days even then. Spring, earlysummer, and fall are perhaps the most appealing timesto visit, when temperatures can be comfortably warm.July and August are the only months you may truly want to avoid: the tem-peratures tend be sweltering and the humidity worse, while flights areexpensive and everyone tends to leave town for more comfortable climes ifthey can.

When to visit

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You could spend weeks inNew York and still barelyscratch the surface, butthere are some key attrac-tions and pleasures youwon’t want to miss.The

INTR

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city is rifewith vibrantethnic neigh-borhoods, likeChinatownand Harlem,and boasts theartsy enclavesof SoHo,TriBeCa, andGreenwichVillage. Ofcourse, youwill find thecelebratedarchitectureof corporateManhattan aswell as thecity’srenownedmuseums –not just theMetropolitan

Museum of Art or theMuseum of Modern Art,but countless smaller col-lections that afford weeksof happy wandering. Inbetween sights, you can eat

5

�N

ew York firehouse

�S

ubway entrance

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just about anything,cooked in any style; youcan drink in virtually anycompany; and attend anynumber of obscure movies.The more established arts– dance, theater, and music– are superbly catered for;and New York’s clubs areas varied and exciting andyou might expect.And, forthe avid consumer, thechoice of shops is vast,almost numb-ingly exhaus-tive in thisheartland ofthe great capi-talist dream.New York Citycomprises thecentral islandof Manhattanalong withfour outer bor-oughs –Brooklyn,Queens, theBronx, andStaten Island.To many,Manhattan isNew York, andwhatever yourinterest in the

city it’s herethat you’llspend mosttime and, unlessyou have friendselsewhere,where you arelikely to stay.Understandingthe intricacies

of Manhattan’s layout inparticular, and above allgetting some grasp on itssubway and bus systems,should be your first priori-ty. Note, however, thatNew York is very much acity of neighborhoods, andone that is best exploredon foot – bring sturdyshoes; you’re going to bedoing a lot of walking.

6�

The Am

erican Museum

of Natural H

istory

�The B

ronx Zoo

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NEW YORK AT A GLANCE

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Financial District This area takes in the skyscrapersand oldest buildings ofManhattan’s southern tip,although the most famous aspectof its skyline, the World TradeCenter, sadly no longer exists.

ChinatownManhattan’s most densely populat-ed ethnic neighborhood, this vibrantlocale is great for Chinese food andshopping for the truly exotic.

SoHo and TriBeCaTwo of the premier districts forcafés, galleries and the commer-cial art scene – not to mentiondesigner shopping.

Greenwich VillageTree-lined streets lined with statelyhouses are punctuated by bars,restaurants, and shops catering tostudents and would-be bohemi-ans – and, of course, tourists.

�TriB

eCa café

�C

hinatown groceries

�The N

ew York P

ublic Library, Midtow

n East

Midtown EastHome to some of New York’smost awe-inspiring architecture aswell as superb museums and thecity’s most elegant stores aligningFifth Avenue.

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Central ParkA supreme display of nineteenth-century landscaping, withoutwhich life in Manhattan would bequite unthinkable.

The Upper West SideThis mostly residential neighbor-hood boasts Lincoln Center, NewYork’s temple to the performing

arts, the venerable AmericanMuseum of Natural History, andbucolic Riverside Park, runningalong the Hudson River.

HarlemStretching north of Central Park,this pre-eminent African-American community boasts aproud history.

�C

olumbus C

ircle, the Upper W

est Side

�C

entral Park

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Ideas

Con ten t s I deas

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New York boastssome of the world’smost unmissablesights – some ofwhich are literallyimpossible to miss.From the islands ofNew York Harbor,to the giant urbanoasis that is CentralPark, to arguablythe two greatestmuseums of theirkind in the world,

we’ve listed the ones thatwe believe you really can’tleave town withoutexperiencing.

The

big

six

sigh

ts10

The Museum of Modern Art Reopening in November 2004 after exten-sive renovations, this is one of the trulygreat collections of modern painting andsculpture on the planet.

� P.147 � MIDTOWN EAST �

The Empire State Building Once again the tallest skyscraper in ametropolis known for them, the EmpireState is the king of New York’s celebratedskyline.

� P.131 � MIDTOWN EAST �

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The Metropolitan Museum of Art You might spend a week exploring the muse-um’s vast holdings, or simply focus on itspaintings, ancient artifacts, or applied arts.

� P.161 � THE UPPER EAST SIDE �

Ellis Island A sensitive and moving museum that driveshome the city’s – and the country’s – immi-grant roots. A great add-on to any visit tothe Statue of Liberty.

� P.69 � BATTERY PARK AND THE HARBOR ISLANDS �

Central Park The ultimate urban park, this green and fan-tastically landscaped sanctuary lies at theheart of the city’s bustle – and couldn’t feelfurther away from it.

� P.155 � CENTRAL PARK �

The Statue of Liberty The views of the lower Manhattan skyline,the trip to the top, everything about a visitto Lady Liberty makes it the ultimate NewYork experience.

� P.68 � BATTERY PARK AND THE HARBOR ISLANDS �

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Of the city’sthousands ofrestaurants, someof which come andgo in the blink of aneye, a few havebecome celebratedinstitutions – placesto visit as muchnow for theircharacter,atmosphere, andclientele as for thefood itself. But thefood that madethem famous in thefirst place isn’tshabby at all:sample oysters thattaste like they’vejust been draggedout of the sea,towering delisandwiches, or themost mouthwateringsteaks to be foundfor miles.

12Qu

inte

ssen

tial N

ew Y

ork

rest

aura

nts Grand Central Oyster Bar

In the vaulted bowels of Grand CentralStation, this is one of the most atmos-pheric oyster bars and fish restaurants inthe world.

� P153 � MIDTOWN EAST �

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Katz’s Deli Probably the most “New York” of the city’sinnumerable eateries, Katz’s is celebratedfor its jaw-achingly huge pastrami sand-wiches.

� P.101 � THE LOWER EAST SIDE �

Peter Luger’s Steak House Manhattanites trek to Williamsburg to thesteakhouse to beat them all, serving hunksof meat the size of a house.

� P.196 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

Second Avenue Deli This classic East Village Jewish deli isknown for its matzoh ball soup and greatburgers.

� P.109 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

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New York Botanical Garden One of the finest botanical gardens in thecountry, this merits a trip up to the Bronxall on its own.

� P.192 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

Beyond the obviousexample of CentralPark, such a citymainstay that we’vegiven it its ownchapter (see p.155),New York sports anumber of greenspaces. The city’ssheer size ensuresthat there are anynumber of fantastic

places to escape to for arelaxing picnic or just abreak when the concretejungle gets to be too much.

Gree

n N

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ork

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East Village CommunityGardensVacant lots redeemed and beautified bylocal residents, these green spaces aresmall oases in a vibrant neighborhood.

� P.106 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

Riverside ParkLandscaped by Vaux and Olmsted, thearchitects who designed Central Park,Riverside Park offers a fine respite fromtouring the Upper West Side.

� P.174 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

Gramercy Park Although open only to residents, this formerswamp surrounded by stately nineteenth-century townhouses is one of New York’sprettiest squares.

� P.129 � UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY PARK, AND MURRAY HILL �

Prospect Park Another Vaux and Olmsted production,Brooklyn’s most bucolic open space fea-tures a botanical garden and a zoo.

� P.188 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

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The Ukrainian East VillageWhile the area is now home to a vibrantmix of hipsters, students, yuppies, andartists, it still contains pockets of itsUkrainian past.

� P.103 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

The most raciallydiverse city on theplanet, New York’sfive boroughs form apatchwork ofconstantly shiftingimmigrantneighborhoods.Apart from bustlingChinatown and oneor two otherdistricts,Manhattan’s

immigrant quarters havebecome diluted as theisland has been gentrified,but the outer boroughsare more of a melting potthan ever – which usuallymeans vibrant streetlife,great shopping, andamazing food.

Ethn

ic N

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ork

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Jewish Lower East Side As much a Latino neighborhood these days,the Lower East Side of Manhattan still hasvestiges of its former Jewish roots.

� P.97 � THE LOWER EAST SIDE �

ChinatownIn Manhattan’s most densely populated eth-nic neighborhood, Chinatown’s narrowstreets pulsate with exotic herbalists andgroceries.

� P.85 � CHINATOWN AND LITTLE ITALY �

Brighton Beach, Brooklyn Home to the US’s largest concentration ofRussian emigrés, many of whom gather onthe boardwalk on weekends.

� P.189 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

Little Italy It’s not the authentic Italian enclave of old,but Little Italy retains a good smattering ofrestaurants and cafés.

� P.85 � CHINATOWN AND LITTLE ITALY �

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The Frick CollectionThis stately Fifth Avenue mansion housesone of the city’s most accessible andbeautifully presented collections of fineart.

� P.161 � THE UPPER EAST SIDE �

The bedrock of NewYork’s collections ismade up of thepaintings andartworks amassedover the years bythe city’s industrialtycoons, whopillaged Europe tofurnish theirluxurious homes.Their vanity is nowto everyone’s benefitas New York Cityclaims some of thebest museums andgalleries in theworld.

Mus

eum

s an

d ga

lleri

es

The Metropolitan Museumof Art Comprised of seven major collections –everything from Egyptian antiquities to aChinese garden and American period furni-ture to celebrated Impressionist masters.

� P.161 � THE UPPER EAST SIDE �

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AmericanMuseum ofNatural History One of the leading naturalhistory collections in theworld, this giant museumis affiliated with a world-class planetarium.

� P.173 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

Lower East SideTenement MuseumSmall local museum that brilliantlycaptures the lives of three genera-tions of immigrants.

� P.97 � THE LOWER EAST SIDE �

The Whitney MuseumOne of the foremost collections ofmodern American art, the Whitneycomplements its collection withlively temporary shows.

� P.165 � THE UPPER EAST SIDE �

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Canal Street Chinatown’s main artery is riddled withsupermarkets and dodgy designerwatches and handbags.

� P.87 � CHINATOWN AND LITTLE ITALY �

The Big Apple is agreat place to shop,offering a wealth ofvariety and priceranges for even themost discriminatingconsumer. Like-minded stores tendto gather together,so whether you’reafter that niftydesigner top, a pairof swanky shoes, or

a fake Rolex watch, youneed to know which part ofthe city to head for.

Shop

ping

str

eets

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Fifth Avenue Legendary home to the upscale stores –such as Gucci, Tiffany, Cartier – and theirlavish window displays.

� P.144 � MIDTOWN EAST �

Madison Avenue The upper reaches of Madison is home tothe Manhattan outlets of the big-namedesigners.

� P.165 � UPPER EAST SIDE �

Orchard Street On Sunday, this Lower East Side street bus-tles with buyers of cheap clothing andleather bargains.

� P.97 � LOWER EAST SIDE �

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New York is theultimate walkingcity, but all thatpavement poundingneeds to beinterspersed withfrequent rest andrefueling.Fortunately aneclectic collection ofcafés andtearooms can befound in just aboutevery neighborhood,providing the perfectstops for a

homemade pastry,invigorating espresso, or asidewalk seat from whichto watch the world go by.

Café

s an

d te

aroo

ms

22

Hungarian Pastry Shop Across from St John the Divine, this long-standing café is an institution withColumbia students.

� P.177 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

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Café SabarskyThis Viennese café on Museum Mile is anideal place to pause for a torte and coffeebefore heading back to the galleries.

� P.168 � UPPER EAST SIDE �

Veniero’s This East Village landmark has been servingwonderful pastries and ice cream for over100 years.

� P.107 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

Thé Adoré This charming Japanese tearoom and bak-ery serves excellent teas and pastries.

� P.107 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

Le Figaro Beat hangout of the 1950s, Le Figaro isstill a nice place for a drink and a snack.

� P.117 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

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Though the city’sprofile was foreverdisfigured when itlost its tallestbuilding, the WorldTrade Center, in2001, the skylineretains its distinctivemajesty, as bigprestigious buildings

compete for attention alongthe main central avenues.While there are only twomajor concentrations ofskyscrapers – in lowerManhattan and midtown –they set the tone for thecity.

Skys

crap

ers

24

The Citicorp Center A Seventies update of the prestige corpo-rate headquarters, and one of the city’smost distinctive buildings.

� P.151 � MIDTOWN EAST �

The Met Life Building Soaring as it does above Grand CentralStation, this airline-wing shaped buildingis one of the city’s most useful land-marks.

� P.150 � MIDTOWN EAST �

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The Chrysler Building Approaching the Empire State in bothheight and iconic status, this Art Deco won-der is probably the most beloved sky-scraper in the city.

� P.151 � MIDTOWN EAST �

25

The Woolworth Building The city’s first skyscraper, and still one ofits most elegant, with one of the mostextravagantly decorated lobbies in town.

� P.80 � CITY HALL PARK AND TRIBECA �

The Empire State Building The views from the top of the Empire Stateafford a dizzying, unparalleled panorama ofManhattan and beyond.

� P.131 � MIDTOWN EAST �

The GE Building The centerpiece of the Rockefeller Center,the monumental lines of this classic pieceof early twentieth-century architecture hasviews that vie for the city’s best.

� P.146 � MIDTOWN EAST �

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There are fewplaces in the worldthat take eatingmore seriously, andas such New York isa great place toshop for food,hosting everythingfrom sleek designerdelis to ancientethnic joints that

have been serving up thesame specialties for overa century. Wherever youare in the city, the choiceand abundance will beenough to make youswoon.

Gour

met

foo

d26

Murray’s Cheese Shop Manhattan’s most inspired and interna-tional selection of cheeses.

� P.116 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

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Russ & DaughtersThe city’s most famous “appetizing” spotthis is the original gourmet store.

� P.99 � THE LOWER EAST SIDE �

Dean & Deluca Chic and expensive, with a fantastic arrayof gourmet delicacies.

� P.92 � SOHO �

Zabar’s Still the apotheosis of New York food fever,this deluxe grocer’s is the city’s most emi-nent foodstore.

� P.176 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

Union Square Farmers’MarketCreate a picnic feast from the fresh produceavailable four times a week at this convivialgreenmarket.

� P.128 � UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCYPARK, AND MURRAY HILL �

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If you come to NewYork City fornightlife, you won’tbe disappointed. Thescene is constantlychanging, but we’vepicked out some ofthe city’s hardiestperennials. Be sure,however, to checklocal listingsmagazines andother sources to findout where the latestcool spot is –there’s no tellingwhen a new onemay open and whenit may close.

Club

s an

d m

usic

ven

ues

28

Radio City Music HallHome to the celebrated Rockettes, thisArt Deco gem features major acts and arenowned Christmas special.

� P.146 � MIDTOWN EAST �

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MercuryLounge Dark yet laid-backvenue usuallyhosting a mix oflocal and interna-tional rock acts.

� P.102 � THE LOWER EAST SIDE �

Don Hill’s Kitschy dance venue hosting an eclecticmixture of live music and DJs.

� P.96 � SOHO �

KnittingFactory New York’s mostexperimental rockand jazz venue isalmost alwayshosting somethingof note.

� P.84 � CITY HALLPARK ANDTRIBECA �

Village Underground An atmospheric and intimate basement clubthat showcases both new and establishedtalent.

� P.120 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

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Stage Deli Perfect for that overstuffed sandwichafter a night on Broadway.

� P.141 � TIMES SQUARE AND THE THEATER DISTRICT �

Though it likes tothink of itself as thecity that doesn’tsleep, mostrestaurants areclosed by midnightand even bars tendto shut down by3am. That doesn’tmean you arewithout options.We’ve selected ahandful of ourfavorite all-night

spots that never close atall – worth knowing if youhave a hankering for alobster thermidor at 4am.

24-h

our

New

Yor

k30

Veselka Long-standing Ukrainian establishmentthat offers great borscht, day or night.

� P.109 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

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Empire Diner A great Art Deco setting for that late-nightburger.

� P.125 � CHELSEA �

Coffee Shop Cool and informal, this Brazilian restau-rant-cum-American diner attracts a ritzycrowd.

� P.132 � UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY PARK, AND MURRAY HILL �

Florent Ultra-hip meatpacking district all-nighterthat caters to the clubbing crowd.

� P.118 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

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From its traditionalpalaces of elegancelike the Plaza, tothe glut of new,slick, designerhotels – theRoyalton or theHudson – there arefew cities in theworld where you

can blow a wad on a hotelroom with quite suchpanache. Even if youcannot afford to stay in oneof them, New York’s luxuryhotels beg a visit.

Gran

d ho

tels

32

The Hudson The newest Ian Schrager extravaganzaoffers luxurious dining and accommoda-tion.

� P.141 � ACCOMMODATION �

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The Royalton Comfort and style amid the bustle of mid-town, this is the stylish alternative for thediscerning traveler.

� P.206 � ACCOMMODATION �

The Waldorf AstoriaOne of the city’s most indulgent hotels, theWaldorf still basks in its Art Deco glory.

� P.208 � ACCOMMODATION �

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The Plaza The setting for countless films, this mockchateau overlooking Central Park is thelast word in opulence.

� P.206 � ACCOMMODATION �

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Empire State Buildingobservatory The journey to the top repays your effortswith stirring views of midtown.

� P.131 � UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY PARK AND MURRAY HILL �

Stunning vistas lurkaround just aboutany corner of NewYork – hardlysurprising for a cityso vertical.Expansive avenuesand sumptuous

waterscapes open onto awide selection of strikingviews. We’ve listed some ofour favorite places to get amemorable and uniquevision of New York.

City

vie

ws

34

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HelicoptertoursThere is no moreunique or mobileway of seeing thecity than from theair.

� P.218 �ESSENTIALS �

The Brooklyn Esplanade The esplanade affords unparalleled views ofthe Brooklyn Bridge, the East River, and theFinancial District.

� P.186 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

From the first subway car Tunnel vision was never so thrilling.

� P.217 � ESSENTIALS �

Harbor cruises There are many options if you want to getout on the water, all giving great views ofManhattan.

� P.67 � THE HARBOR ISLANDS �

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Stonewall BarSite of the famous riots, the originalStonewall is still a Village stalwart.

� P.119 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

There are fewplaces where gayculture thrives tothe extent it does inNew York, asmanifest in themultiplicity of bars,stores, and otherbusinesses cateringto a specifically gayclientele. There are

numerous neighborhoods,too, that are predominantlygay – the West Village isthe original one, thoughChelsea is probably thelargest nowadays – as wellas several free newspapers(Blade, Next, HX, LGNYNews) worth picking up forpointers of where to go andwhat to do.

Gay

New

Yor

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Oscar WildeMemorialBookshop A great place to beginyour tour of theVillage, this is thecity’s most extensivegay bookshop.

� P.116 � GREENWICHVILLAGE �

Marie’s Crisis This cabaret and piano bar always makesfor a fabulous night out.

� P.114 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

The Monster Large and camp, this bar is celebrated forcabaret acts and late-night dancing.

� P.119 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

Christopher StreetThe main drag of gay New York, Christopherstreet, is home to manifold gay-orientedbars, clubs, and businesses.

� P.114 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

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New York hasalways been adrinkers’ haven, andeven with the newban on smokingthere are still loadsof bars to entice oldsoaks, younghipsters, and wearysightseers. Choose

from grizzled old placesthat have been aroundforever and take a breakfrom the sleek designerjoints, where you may haveto negotiate with thebouncer.

Clas

sic

bars

Old Town Bar and RestaurantCrowded old-style New York joint in theFlatiron District that’s a great spot for apre-dinner drink.

� P.133 � UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCY PARK, AND MURRAY HILL �

38

Subway Inn Funky old spot with cheap beer in theshadow of Bloomingdale’s.

� P.170 � THE UPPER EAST SIDE �

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Fanelli’s Cozy old bar that’s anice alternative toSoHo’s usual slickestablishments.

� P.96 � SOHO �

McSorley’s Old Ale HouseNew York’s oldest bar has served itsesteemed home-brewed ale to the likes ofAbraham Lincoln.

� P.110 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

Chumley’s This former speakeasy – now a regular bar– is reputedly where Joyce wrote bits ofFinnegan’s Wake.

� P.119 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

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For most peopleManhattan is NewYork, yet there arefour other boroughsand plenty toexperience in eachof them if you havethe time. Bear inmind that the outerboroughs, Brooklyn,Queens, the Bronx,and Staten Island,include some of thecity’s mostethnically diverseneighborhoods –reason enough initself to leave theisland, especially ifyou want to eat.Re

ason

s to

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e th

e is

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Brooklyn Heights Just across the Brooklyn Bridge, the tran-quil Heights offers brick- and brownstonearchitecture and an unmatched view ofManhattan.

� P.186 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

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Yankee Stadium Home to baseball’s most storied team, thestadium is the hot ticket in the summer.

� P.192 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

Coney Island New York’s classic beachside fun factory,accessible for the price of a subway ticket.

� P.189 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

Brooklyn Botanic GardenQuite simply, one of the most enticing greenspaces in the city – especially gorgeous inspring.

� P.188 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

Bronx Zoo One of the best in the country, the zoo awesmillions annually with its wildlife.

� P.192 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

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Just walking thestreets of New Yorkand soaking it all inshould be enough tokeep your childrenstimulated, for NewYork features suchobvious eye-openersas skyscrapers,ferry rides, andstreet entertainers.But there are also

many attractionsspecifically designed forkids that you shouldn’tmiss if you’re here as afamily.

Kids

’ New

Yor

k Children’s Museum ofManhattan Highly interactive museum devoted tokids, who flock to its video and story-telling presentations.

� P.174 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

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Central Park Zoo Smaller and more easily accessible than theone in the Bronx, it has a petting zoo espe-cially popular with younger children.

� P.155 � CENTRAL PARK �

New York Transit Museum Exhibits of old subway stations and buseswill occupy children for hours.

� P.186 � OUTER BOROUGHS �

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New York Aquarium The sharks, seals, and walruses here are agood compliment to a stroll along the ConeyIsland boardwalk.

� P.189 � OUTER BOROUGHS �

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Pizza While pizza is pretty much universal, NewYorkers insist only a few places serve thereal thing.

� P.89 � CHINATOWN AND LITTLE ITALY �

The smells of NewYork’s distinctivestreet food – aninevitable result ofthe ethnic mix thatmakes up the city –waft from everycorner. Specialtiesinclude everythingfrom German treatslike pretzels and hot

dogs, which date from thevery earliest immigrants,Jewish bialys, bagels, andlox – and of course pizza,the product of the city’slarge Italian community.We’ve listed some of themost prominent kinds thatyou’ll find – there areplenty more; don’t beafraid to try your luck.

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Hot dogs The ultimate street food, available on virtually every corner with a variety of garnishes.

� P.196 � THE OUER BOROUGHS �

Knishes Delectable, doughy Jewish pastry stuffedwith potatoes, cheese, and meat, amongother options.

� P.100 � THE LOWER EAST SIDE �

Bialys and lox While bagels are ubiquitous, their drier, flat-ter, and hole-less cousins are perfecttopped with smoked salmon.

� P.99 � THE LOWER EAST SIDE �

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King KongNo image is quite as iconic as the mightyape straddling the Empire State Building.

� P.131 � UNION SQUARE, GRAMERCYPARK, AND MURRAY HILL �

Even first-timevisitors will find thatthere’s plenty inNew York that’soddly familiar – andthat’s because thecity is the ultimatemovie set and hasfeatured on filmand television morethan any other city.You could fill anentire book with itsmost significantlocations; insteadwe’ve just listed

some of the ones you’relikely to be most familiarwith.

Film

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Rosemary’s Baby The august Dakota Building was the spookysetting of Roman Polanski’s seminal Sixtieschiller.

� P.171 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

Breakfast atTiffany’sFew stores evoke amovie character asindelibly as Tiffany’sdoes AudreyHepburn’s HollyGolightly.

� P.153 � MIDTOWNEAST �

Seinfeld The beloved sitcom was filmedon a stage set, but the outside ofTom’s Diner doubled as Monk’s,the coffeeshop where Jerry andCo. talked about nothing.

� P.178 � THE UPPERWEST SIDE �

The Lost Weekend PJ Clarke’s is the unmistakeable drinkingden, where Ray Milland lost his weekend.

� P.154 � MIDTOWN EAST �

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Since the earlynineteenth century,New York has beenhome and workplaceto some of theguiding lights ofworld literature, andtheir haunts andactivities are markedthroughout the city.Its venerableliterary history hasbeen played out inits bars, hotels,parks, houses, and

streets, leaving behindnumerous indeliblelandmarks.

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Chelsea HotelNumerous writers have holed up at theChelsea, but the most famous was prob-ably Jack Kerouac, who wrote On TheRoad here in 1951.

� P.122 � CHELSEA AND THEGARMENT DISTRICT �

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White HorseTavernBustling bar in whichDylan Thomas notori-ously downed his finalscotch.

� P.120 � GREENWICHVILLAGE �

Algonquin Hotel While the bar was the gathering place ofDorothy Parker and her Round Table, thehotel has long been a place for literary folkto stay.

� P.136 � TIMES SQUARE AND THETHEATER DISTRICT �

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Washington SquareHenry James’ novel of the same name paystribute to the redbrick terrace houses thatstill fringe the square’s north side.

� P.112 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

West EndCafé The unruly haunt ofAllen Ginsberg andhis fellow Beats inthe Fifties.

� P.179 � THEUPPER WEST SIDE �

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In a city ofrestaurants, it’s notsurprising that NewYork has some trulyextraordinary placesto eat – usually atprices to match.There are the well-establishedinstitutions, where ameal is anexperience in itself,as well as aconstantly evolvinghost of placesspringing up to

challenge the culinarystatus quo. For any of thespots below, make sureyou reserve well inadvance.

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Aquavit Just off Fifth Avenue, Aquavit servesexquisite Scandinavian food in a top-notchambience.

� P.139 � TIMES SQUARE AND THE THEATER DISTRICT �

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71 Clinton Fresh Food Great cooking in one of the hippest yetmost intimate restaurants in town.

� P.100 � THE LOWER EAST SIDE �

Gotham Bar & GrillIn an airy and relaxed environment, savorgreat American food.

� P.118 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

Balthazar It’s still hard to get a table in this recreationof a 1920s Parisian brasserie – and wellworth the wait.

� P.94 � SOHO �

BondStSome of the freshest and most fashionablesushi in the city is served up at this modernspot.

� P.108 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

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Though it’s notexactly a citysteeped in religion,New York’schurches andsynagogues reflectits ethnic diversity,demographicevolution, andarchitecturalambitiousness. Youdon’t necessarilyneed to take in aservice toappreciate thepleasures of thearchetypal placesbelow – juststanding inside maytransport you to a

higher place.

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St John the DivineWork continues on this immense neo-Gothic cathedral, set to be the largest inthe world when finished.

� P.175 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

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Abyssinian Baptist Church Worth a visit for its exhilarating SundayGospel choir.

� P.182 � HARLEM AND ABOVE �

Temple Emanu-ElCavernous building that is America’s largestsynagogue.

� P.161 � THE UPPER EAST SIDE �

St Patrick’s Cathedral Late nineteenth-century Gothic pastiche ofthe great cathedrals of Europe.

� P.147 � MIDTOWN EAST �

St Mark’sChurch in-the-BoweryThough better knownfor its literary events,this Neoclassical edificeis the longest servingchurch in the city.

� P.106 � THE EAST VILLAGE �

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Whileaccommodation,entertainment, anddining out cancertainly set youback, your visit toNew York doesn’thave to beexpensive. Indeed,some experiences –like taking theStaten Island ferry –are within reach ofeveryone, whatevertheir budget.Moreover, the cityoffers manybargains and deals

that make variousattractions much moreaffordable.

New

Yor

k on

the

che

apSummerstage concerts inCentral Park Perhaps New York’s most enjoyable bar-gain, when big names in rock and jazzplay Central Park for free on summerweekends.

� P.155 � CENTRAL PARK �

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Day-pass MetroCard Travel anywhere in the city by bus or trainfor under $5.

� P.217 � ESSENTIALS �

Staten Island ferry The best freebie of them all, the ferry’s gotthe famous views as well as the relief fromthe bustling streets.

� P.67 � THE HARBOR ISLANDS �

Discount theater tickets For half-price theater tickets for Broadwayor Off-Broadway shows, check out the TKTSbooth in Times Square.

� P.137 � TIMES SQUARE AND THE THEATER DISTRICT �

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New Yorkers taketheir musicseriously. Long linesform for anythingpopular, manyconcerts sell out,and summerevenings can see aquarter of a millionpeople turning up inCentral Park for free

opera or symphonyperformances. The range ofwhat’s available isstaggering, but it’s the bignames at the big venuesthat pull in the crowds –always try to book inadvance.

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Symphony SpaceA staple for jazz, classical, and world musicperformances.

� P.179 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

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The Brooklyn Academy ofMusic America’s oldest performing arts center isalso one of the city’s most adventurous.

� P198 � THE OUTER BOROUGHS �

Beacon Theatre Big theater that hosts major touring rockacts.

� P.179 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

Carnegie Hall The venerable stage has been graced bythe most eminent names since the hallopened in 1891.

� P.137 � TIMES SQUARE AND THE THEATER DISTRICT �

Lincoln CenterHome to the internationally renownedMetropolitan Opera, the New YorkPhilharmonic, and other classical musicheavyweights.

� P.171 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

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The consumercapital of the world,New York has shopsthat cater to everypossible taste,preference, andperversity, in anycombination and, inmany cases, at anytime of day or night.As such, they’rereason enough forvisiting the city.

Although there are theusual chains here, you’ll dowell to concentrate on theshopping institutions thathave been around fordecades.

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Bloomingdale’sFamous department store that stockseverything and somehow manages toremain the epitome of Upper East Sidestyle.

� P.167 � THE UPPER EAST SIDE �

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Saks Fifth AvenueGorgeously appointed haunt of beautifulpeople looking for beautiful designer gar-ments.

� P.152 � MIDTOWN EAST �

Tiffany’s & CoA Fifth Avenue landmark, Tiffany’s is wortha visit for its famous interior and snootyassistants.

� P.153 � MIDTOWN EAST �

Bergdorf Goodman Old-money speaks loudest at the city’smost elegant department store, known forits elegant window displays.

� P.152 � MIDTOWN EAST �

Macy’s A world unto itself, Macy’s is worth a visitfor its size alone.

� P125 � CHELSEA AND THE GARMENT DISTRICT �

Barney’s A New York byword for high-flying designerwear and the best place to find little-knownlabels or next season’s hot item.

� P.167 � THE UPPER EAST SIDE �

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HomeThe creative and reasonably pricedAmerican food at this relaxed brunch isalways fresh and superb.

� P.118 � GREENWICH VILLAGE �

Few New Yorkdining experiencesare as civilized asthe leisurelybreakfast or thebountiful weekendbrunch. Thenumber of placesoffering specialbreakfast or brunchmenus is everexpanding, and, atsome restaurants,Saturday or Sundaybrunch is the mainattraction. Often,there is no timelimit to whenbreakfast andbrunch are served,so grab a

newspaper and join thelocals.

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Bubby’sCelebrities and regular folk enjoy the homeyand filling comfort food of this TriBeCa eatery.

� P.82 � CITY HALL PARK AND TRIBECA�

Barney Greengrass If you’re prepared to stand in line, the self-styled “sturgeon king” is the place for theclassic lox and eggs brunch.

� P.175 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

Good Enough to EatUpper West Siders relish breakfast at thisAmsterdam Avenue institution.

� P.177 � THE UPPER WEST SIDE �

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Macy’s Thanksgiving DayParade More than two million spectators see thebig corporate floats and dozens of marchingbands parade down Central Park West,along Broadway to Herald Square.

� P.220 � ESSENTIALS �

While the visitormight well mistakethe rush hourcrowds of midtownor the FinancialDistrict for a(somewhat)orchestratedprocession, NewYork does offer itsfair share ofparades. Almostevery ethnic groupin the city holds anannual get-together,often using FifthAvenue as its maindrag. The events areoften religious orpolitical in origin,

though now they are justas much an excuse formusic, food, and dance.

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Chinese New Year At the first full moon between January 21and February 19, Chinatown bursts open towatch parades, featuring gongs, heavy per-cussion, and dragon dances.

� P.220 ESSENTIALS �

Halloween Every October 31st, America’s largestHalloween celebration envelops the Villagewith spectacular costumes, wigs, andmake-up.

� P.220 � ESSENTIALS �

New Year’s EveSeveral hundred thousand revelers party inthe cold, well-guarded streets around TimesSquare while waiting for the ball to drop.

� P.221 � ESSENTIALS �

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Places

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Places

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Seeing the Harbor IslandsFerries run by Circle Line visit both Liberty and Ellis islands and leave every thir-ty minutes from the pier in Battery Park in lower Manhattan (daily9.30am–3.30pm; round-trip $10, children $4, tickets from Castle Clinton;t212/269-5755,wwww.circlelineferry.com). The ferry goes first to Liberty Island,then continues on to Ellis, and it’s best to leave as early in the day as possible toavoid long lines (especially in the summer); note that if you take the last ferry ofthe day, you won’t be able to visit Ellis Island. Liberty Island needs a good hour,especially if the weather’s nice and there aren’t too many people; Ellis Islanddemands at least two hours for the Museum of Immigration.

Alternatively, the free Staten Island Ferry (t212/639-9675, wwww.siferry.com) departs every half-hour from Whitehall Terminal and shuttles some twentymillion passengers annually. While it doesn’t actually make stops on the islands,the ferry furnishes a beautiful panorama of the islands and downtown skyline.

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Battery Park and theHarbor IslandsThe southern tip of Manhattan Island and the enclosingshores of New Jersey, Staten Island, and Brooklyn formthe broad expanse of New York Harbor, one of thefinest natural harbors in the world, covering one-hun-dred square miles in total and stretching as far as theVerrazano Narrows – the thin neck of land betweenStaten Island and Long Island. While it’s quite possibleto appreciate Manhattan simply by gazing out from thepromenade in Battery Park, to get a proper sense ofNew York’s uniqueness and the best views of its cele-brated skyline, you should take to the water. The StatenIsland Ferry and Circle Line offer scenic vistas ofGotham, as do Liberty and Ellis islands – two highlycompelling destinations.

Battery Park Lower Manhattan lets out itsbreath in Battery Park, a brightand breezy greenspace withinventive landscaping and viewsof the Statue of Liberty, EllisIsland, and America’s largestharbor.The squat 1811 CastleClinton (daily 8.30am–5pm), onthe west side of the park, is theplace to buy tickets for andboard ferries to the Statue ofLiberty and Ellis Island. On the � C A S T L E C L I N T O N

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Statue of Liberty

Ellis IslandMuseum ofImmigration

NEWJERSEY

BROOKLYN

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park’s Eisenhower Mall nearBowling Green stands one ofthe city’s first official memorialsto the victims of September11th; its focal point is thecracked fifteen-foot steel-and-bronze sculpture designed byFritz Koenig entitled “TheSphere” – meant to representworld peace – that once stood inthe World Trade Center Plaza.

The Statue of LibertyDaily 9.30am–5pm; free t212/363-3200, wwww.nps.gov/stli. Standingtall and proud in the middle ofNew York Harbor, the Statue ofLiberty has for more than acentury served as a symbol ofthe American Dream. DepictingLiberty throwing off hershackles and holding a beaconto light the world, themonument was the creation ofthe French sculptor FrédéricAuguste Bartholdi and wascrafted a hundred years after theAmerican Revolution in

recognition of fraternitybetween the French and

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� T H E S T A T U E O F L I B E R T Y

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Ellis IslandMuseum hours daily9am–5.15pm; freet212/363-3200,wwww.ellisisland.org. EllisIsland became animmigration station in1892, mainly to handlethe massive influxfrom southern andeastern Europe. Itbecame the first stopfor more than twelvemillion prospectiveimmigrants, allsteerage-classpassengers, and todaysome one hundredmillion Americans cantrace their roots here.

Ellis Island reopenedin 1990 as a Museumof Immigration. Onthe first floor, theexcellent permanent

exhibit,“Peopling of America,”chronicles four centuries ofimmigration, offering a statisticalportrait of those who arrived.The huge, vaulted RegistryRoom has been left bare, withjust a couple of inspectors’ desksand American flags.Themuseum’s American FamilyImmigration History Center(wwww.ellisislandrecords.org)offers an interactive researchdatabase that containsinformation from ship manifestsand passenger lists concerningover 22 million immigrants whopassed through the entire Portof New York between 1892 and1924. Outside, the names ofover 600,000 immigrants whopassed through the building overthe years are engraved in copperon the “Wall of Honor,” whichstill accepts submissions, thoughit controversially requiresfamilies to pay $100 for theirancestors’ inclusion.

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sAmerican people.The statue,which consists of thin coppersheets bolted together andsupported by an iron frameworkdesigned by Gustave Eiffel (ofEiffel Tower fame) was built inParis between 1874 and 1884.Bartholdi enlarged his originalterracotta model to its presentsize of 111 feet through foursuccessive versions.The onehere was formally dedicated byPresident Grover Cleveland onOctober 28, 1886.

Today you can climb 192 stepsto the top of the pedestal or theentire 354 steps up to thecrown, but the cramped stairwayup through the torch is sadlyclosed to the public.The besttime to visit is as early in themorning as possible; otherwisethere’ll be an hour-long wait toascend. Even if there is, LibertyPark’s views of the lowerManhattan skyline arespectacular enough.

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The Financial District While most visitors to the southern end of Manhattanmake the pilgrimage to Ground Zero, former site of theWorld Trade Center, the area is also home to some ofthe city’s most historic sights. New York began here,and its development is reflected in the dense, twistedstreets of what is now known as the Financial District,heart of the nation’s business trade. Many of the earlycolonial buildings that once lined these streets eitherburned down during the American Revolution or theGreat Fire of 1835, or were later demolished by big busi-nesses eager to boost their corporate image with head-quarters near Wall Street. The explosive commercialdevelopment of nearby South Street Seaport and theconversion of old office space to residential units havehelped the Financial District shed its nine-to-five aura.

Wall Street The first European arrivals inManhattan were the Dutch,who built a wooden wall at theedge of New Amsterdam in1635 to protect themselves from

encroaching British settlers fromthe north, thus giving thenarrow canyon of today’s WallStreet its name. Even in theeighteenth century,Wall Street,which runs across the tip of the

island from Broadwayto South Street on theEast River, wasassociated withmoney: not only didthe city’s wealthiestlive here, but it was onWall Street that thefirst banks andinsurance companiesestablished their officesand where the NewYork Stock Exchangeand Federal Hall arefound.

The Stock Exchange 11 Wall St t212/656-3000,wwww.nyse.com. Behind theNeoclassical facade ofthe New York StockExchange, firstestablished in 1817,the purse strings of the� W A L L S T R E E T

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Museum ofAmerican

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EATING AND DRINKINGBayardBridge CaféCarmine’s Bar and GrillDelmonico’sHarry’s at Hanover SquareJeremy’s AlehouseLes HallesOrange BearParis CaféRise

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Federal Hall 26 Wall St; Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; freet212/825-6888,wwww.nps.gov/feha.One of New York City’s finestexamples of Greek Revivalarchitecture, the Federal HallNational Memorial, at WallStreet’s canyon-like head, wasfirst built in 1699 to serve as thecity hall of the colony of NewYork. Its current (1842)construction is best known forthe monumental statue ofGeorge Washington on its steps.An exhibition inside relates theheady days of 1789 whenWashington was sworn in asAmerica’s first president from abalcony on this site.Thedocuments and models insiderepay consideration, as does thehall with its elegant rotunda andCretan maidens worked into thedecorative railings.

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capitalist world are pulled with1.3 billion shares traded and $35billion passing hands on anaverage day. Owing to securityconcerns, however, the publiccan no longer view the frenziedtrading floor of the exchange,which, at the time of writing, isnot expected to re-open soon.

� S T A T U E O F G E O R G E W A S H I N G T O N , F E D E R A L H A L L

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Trinity Church Broadway at Wall St; free guided toursdaily at 2pm. At the western endof Wall Street,Trinity Church isan ironic and stoic onlooker atthe street’s dealings.There’s been

a church here since 1697, butthis knobby Neo-Gothicstructure – the third model –only went up in 1846, and forfifty years was the city’s tallestbuilding.Trinity has the air of

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The World Trade CenterCompleted in 1973, the 110-story Twin Towers of the World Trade Center werean integral part of New York’s legendary skyline, a symbol of the city’s social andeconomic success. At 1368 and 1362 feet – over a quarter of a mile – the towersafforded mind-blowing views; on a clear day, visitors to the observation deckcould see 55 miles into the distance. And although the WTC’s claim to be theworld’s tallest buildings was quickly usurped by Chicago’s Sears Tower (and laterby the Petronas Towers of Kuala Lumpur), by 2001 the towers had become both acoveted workspace and a much-loved tourist destination.

However, on September 11 2001, as thousands of people began their workingday in the buildings, all that changed when two hijacked planes crashed into thetowers just twenty minutes apart. The subsequent collapse of both towers (as wellas other buildings in the World Trade Center complex) jolted the city and Americaout of their sense of invincibility. Hundreds of firefighters, police officers, and res-cue workers were among the 2749 people who lost their lives in the attack.

At the time of writing, all that remains of the towers is Ground Zero (see oppo-site), the hole where they once stood, but the foundation of the new World TradeCenter is underway. In 2003, Polish-born American architect Daniel Libeskind wasnamed the winner of a competition held to decide what shape the new World TradeCenter would take. Libeskind’s visionary design includes the use of windmills, meantas symbols of energy independence, beneath the planned Tower of Freedom spire,which will soar 1776 feet high, making the new World Trade Center the second-tallest structure on earth after the CN Tower in Toronto. In addition to the Tower, therewill be two large public spaces: Park of Heroes and Wedge of Light, which will deployprecise engineering worthy of ancient Egypt. Underneath it all, Libeskind is leavingspace for a museum about September 11th as well as an official memorial, whosedesign will be determined by another international competition.

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an English church (RichardUpjohn, its architect, wasEnglish), especially in thesheltered graveyard, resting placeof such notables as the firstSecretary of the Treasury,Alexander Hamilton, andsteamboat king Robert Fulton.

Ground ZeroChurch St, between Vesey and Libertystreets; free. The gaping holewhere the Twin Towers of theWorld Trade Center stood drawscountless visitors to pay theirrespects to those who perishedin the terrorist attacks ofSeptember 11, 2001, and see thesite of the destruction first-hand.The makeshift plywoodplatform that went up twomonths after the towers’ collapsehas since become a sturdy semi-permanent construction with ascreenlike grid of galvanizedsteel, memorial photos, andviews of the first phase of thenew World Trade Center con-struction.

St Paul’s ChapelBroadway at Fulton St; daily8am–6pm. The oldestpublic building incontinuous use and theoldest church inManhattan, St Paul’sChapel dates from1766 – eighty yearsearlier than the currentTrinity Church,making it almostprehistoric by NewYork standards.Though the building isAmerican in feel, itsEnglish architect usedGeorgian St Martin-in-the-Fields inLondon as his modelfor this unfussy spaceof soap-bar blues andpinks. George

Washington worshipped here,and his pew is on show.

The Cunard Building 25 Broadway. An impressiveleftover of the confident daysbefore the Wall Street Crash, theCunard Building wasconstructed in 1921. Its marblewalls and high dome oncehoused the famous steamshipline’s transatlantic booking officefor such well-known seafaringvessels as the Queen Mary andthe Queen Elizabeth – hence theelaborate, whimsical murals ofvariegated ships and nauticalmythology splashed around theceiling of the Great Hall, now aUS post office.

The Museum of AmericanFinancial History28 Broadway; Tues–Sat 10am–4pm;$2 t212/908-4110,wwww.financialhistory.org. Housedin the former headquarters ofJohn D. Rockefeller’s Standard

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Oil Company, this is the largestpublic archive of financialdocuments and artifacts in theworld, featuring such finance-related objects as the bondsigned by Washington bearingthe first dollar sign ever used ona Federal document, and astretch of ticker tape from theopening moments of 1929’sGreat Crash.

Bowling GreenThe city’s oldest public parkwas the location of one ofManhattan’s more memorablebusiness deals, when PeterMinuit, first director general ofthe Dutch colony of NewAmsterdam, bought the wholeisland from the Indians in 1626for a bucket of trade goodsworth sixty guilders (about$25).The other side of thestory, rarely told, is that theseparticular Indians didn’tactually own the island – nodoubt both parties went homesmiling.

The Smithsonian NationalMuseum of the AmericanIndian1 Bowling Green, the US CustomsHouse; daily 10am–5pm, Thurs

10am–8pm; free t212/514-3700,wwww.si.edu/nmai. Cass Gilbert’s1907 US Customs House isnow home to the SmithsonianNational Museum of theAmerican Indian, an excellentcollection of artifacts fromalmost every tribe native to theAmericas.The permanentcollection includes intricatebasketry and woodcarvings,quilled hides, feathered bonnets,and objects of ceremonialsignificance.A ratherextraordinary facet of themuseum is its repatriationpolicy, which mandates that itgive back to Indian tribes, uponrequest, any human remains,funerary objects, and ceremonialand religious items it hasacquired.

Museum of Jewish Heritage36 Battery Place; Sun–Tues & Thurs10am–5.45pm, Wed 10am–8pm, Fri10am–5pm; Oct–March museumcloses at 3pm on Fri; $7, students $5t212/509-6130, wwww.mjhnyc.org.This living memorial to theHolocaust features three floorsof exhibits focusing ontwentieth-century Jewishhistory.The moving andinformative collection features

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practical accoutrements ofeveryday Eastern EuropeanJewish life, prison garb survivorswore in Nazi concentrationcamps, photographs, personalbelongings, and multimediapresentations.There’s also ahealthy schedule of events,films, and discussions of Jewishlife.

The Skyscraper MuseumGround floor of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 2West St; Mon–Fri noon–6pm;suggested donation $2 t212/968-1961,wwww.skyscraper.org.Situated in the world’s foremostvertical metropolis, this newlyrenovated museum is entirelydevoted to the study of high-rise building, past, present, andfuture. Related exhibitions andevents range from panels for theViewing Wall at Ground Zeroto a virtual walking tour ofLower Manhattan.

The Fraunces TavernMuseum54 Pearl St at Broad St; Tues, Wed, Fri10am–5pm, Thurs 10am–7pm, Sat11am–5pm; $3, students and seniors$2 t212/425-1778,wwww.fraunces-tavernmuseum.org. Havingsurvived extensive modification,several fires, and nineteenth-century use as a hotel, thethree-story, ochre-and-red-brickFraunces Tavern was almosttotally reconstructed in 1907 tomimic its appearance onDecember 4, 1783, when, afterhammering the Brits, a weepingGeorge Washington took leaveof his assembled officers, intenton returning to rural life inVirginia:“I am not only retiringfrom all public employments,”he wrote,“but am retiringwithin myself.” It was a hastystatement – six years later hereturned as the new nation’spresident.

The Shrine of Elizabeth Ann Seton7 State St; Mon–Fri 6.30am–5pm, Sat& Sun 10am–3pm; t212/269-6865.This rounded dark, red-brickGeorgian facade identifies thefirst native-born American to becanonized. St Elizabeth livedhere briefly before moving tofound a religious community inMaryland.The shrine – small,hushed, and illustrated by piousand tearful pictures of the saint’slife – is one of a few old housesthat have survived the district’smodernizing onslaught.

The New York City PoliceMuseum100 Old Slip between Water and Southsts Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; suggesteddonation $5, students and seniors freet212/480-3100,wwww.nycpolicemuseum.org. Theoldest museum of its kind inthe country, this arrestingcollection of memorabilia fromthe New York PoliceDepartment showcases thehistory of New York’s Finestwith nightsticks, guns, uniforms,photos, and the like – over10,000 items in all.Among thehighlights are sergeants’ copperbadges from 1845 (whichearned them the nickname“coppers”) and the Tommy gun– in its original gangster-issueviolin case – that was used torub out Al Capone’s gangleader, Frankie Yale.

South Street Seaport Visitors’ center at 12–14 Fulton St;t212/732-7678. The center ofNew York City’s port districtfrom 1815 to 1860, South StreetSeaport houses all kinds ofrestaurants and shops andfeatures an outdoor promenade.Its Pier 17 has become the focalpoint of the district; alwayscrowded in the summer, it’s

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where you can listen to freemusic, tour historic mooredships like the Peking (1911), theAmbrose Lightship (1908), andthe Wavetree (1855), or bookcruises with the New YorkWaterway (May–Nov, two-hourcruises $24, fifty-minute cruises$11;T1-800/533-3779,Wwww.nywaterway.com).However, you don’t have tospend a dime to take in thefantastic views of the Brooklynand Manhattan bridges from thepromenade.

South Street SeaportMuseum207 Front St, daily: April–Sept10am–6pm, Oct–March 10am–5pm; $5t212/748-8600,wwww.southstseaport.org. Lodged ina series of painstakingly restored1830s warehouses, the museumpresents the largest collection ofsailing vessels in the US, plus ahandful of maritime art andtrade exhibits.The museum alsooffers daytime, sunset, and night-time cruises around New YorkHarbor on the Pioneer, an 1895schooner that accommodates upto forty people (May–Sept; $25,$20 for students and seniors, $15for children under 12;

reservations on t212/363-5481).

ShopsBowne & Co, Stationers 211 Water St at Beekman Stt212/748-8651. This gas-litnineteenth-century shopproduces fine examples ofauthentic letterpress printing.You can order a set of businesscards made by hand here withantique handpresses.

Century 21 22 Cortlandt St between Broadwayand Church St t212/227-9092.Fashion mavens and bargainhunters flock to New York’smost beloved discountdepartment store on weekendsfor massive sales on designerlabels, which often sell for 40-70 percent lower thananywhere else.

The New York YankeesClubhouse Shop 8 Fulton St between Front and Watersts Mon–Sat 10am–7pm, Sun11am–6pm T212/514-7182. In caseyou want that celebrated “NY”logo on your clothing, this

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South Street Seaport emporiumhas it all.

The Strand Seaport 95 Fulton St between Gold and Williamsts t212/732-6070. Its Villagecounterpart may boast eightmiles of books, but thisFinancial District outpost holdsits own with a superb collectionof new and used titles for saleand is far less crowded; olderbooks are from 50¢ up.

William Barthman Jewelry 174 Broadway at Maiden Lanet212/514-9454. Since 1884, thisfine jeweller has been sellingexquisite accessories to WallStreeters.Worth a browse andogle for its Old World charm.

RestaurantsBayard 1 Hanover Square at Pearl Stt212/514-9454. Set in the 1851India House, this maritime-themed French-Americanrestaurant earns rave reviews forits inspired seasonal cuisine suchas autumnal venison withpoached pear and spring rack oflamb with honey mustard glaze,expert service, and magical, ifclubby, atmosphere.

Bridge Café 279 Water St at Dover St t212/227-3344. It is said there’s been a barhere since 1794, but this placelooks very up-to-the-minute.The good crabcakes come fromthe local fish market, and thereare plenty of upscale beers withwhich to wash them down.Therare eighteenth-centuryframehouse, painted red withblack trim, is well worth a look.Entrees are priced between $16and $25.

Carmine’s Bar and Grill 140 Beekman St at Front Stt212/962-8606. In business since1903, this place specializes innorthern Italian-style seafoodand exudes a comfortable ifrundown ambience.Try a glassof the house wine and a bowlof linguini in clam sauce forlunch.

Delmonico’s 56 Beaver St at William St t212/509-1144; closed Saturdays. Many amillion-dollar deal has beenmade at this 1837 landmarksteakhouse that features pillarsfrom Pompeii and classics likelobster newburg. Many go forits pricey Porterhouses andhistoric charms.

Les Halles25 John St between Broadway andNassau St t212/285-8585. Thisheady French bistro is the RiveGauche fantasy of KitchenConfidential chef AnthonyBourdain, who strives forauthenticity but often churnsout Gallic dishes, such asescargots in garlic butter andduck confit shepherd’s pie, thatare over the top.

Paris Café 119 South St between Beekman St andPeck Slip t212/240-9797.Established in 1873, this old-fashioned bar and restaurantplayed host to a panoply ofluminaries, such as ThomasEdison, who used the café as asecond office while designingthe first electric power station.These days the elegant squarebar, tempting seafood specials,and stellar views of theBrooklyn Bridge still pull in alively crowd; entrees go forabout $16 and $25.

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Bars

Harry’s at Hanover Square 1 Hanover Square between Pearl andStone sts t212/425-3412. Clubbybar that hits its stride when thefloor traders come in afterwork. Great burgers, but onlyopen on weekdays.

Jeremy’s Alehouse254 Front St at Dover St t212/964-3537. Once a sleazy bar in theshadow of the Brooklyn Bridge,Jeremy’s fortunes changed withthe aggrandizement of thenearby South Street Seaport.However, it’s still anunpretentious bar that serves

well-priced pint mugs of beerand excellent fresh fish andseafood, as well as burgers.

Orange Bear 47 Murray St between Church St andWest Broadway t212/566-3705. Thisfunky dive bar may need afacelift, but it’s still a great placeto check out obscure indie andgrunge bands and occasionalspoken word events.

Rise 2 West St, Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 14th Floor,Battery Park t212/344-0800. Try thisplush hotel lounge for swankysunset drinks, tiered trays ofgourmet tapas, and outstandingviews of the Statue of Liberty.

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City Hall Park andTriBeCaSince its early days, the seats of New York’s federal,state, and city government have been located aroundCity Hall Park. Though many of the original civic build-ings no longer stand, there remain great examples ofsome of the city’s finest architecture here, with theWoolworth Building standing by as a venerable onlook-er, while the Brooklyn Bridge zooms eastward over theriver. West of City Hall, TriBeCa (Try-beck-a), theTriangle Below Canal Street, is a former wholesale gar-ment district that has been transformed into an upscalecommunity that mixes commercial establishments withloft residences, galleries, celebrity hang-outs, and chiceateries, many of which can be found along Hudson andGreenwich streets.

City Hall Park Landscaped in 1730, City HallPark is dotted with statues, notleast of which is of HoraceGreeley, founder of the New YorkTribune newspaper. Prize position,however, goes to Nathan Hale,who was hanged in 1776 by theBritish for spying, but not beforehe’d spat out his glorious andfamous last words:“I regret that Ionly have but one life to lose formy country.”At the north end ofthe park sitsCity Hall,completed in1812.AfterNew Yorksaluted the heroaviator CharlesA. Lindbergh in1927, it becamethe traditionalfinishing pointfor Broadwayticker-tapeparades givenfor astronauts,returned

hostages, and championship-winning teams.The interior is anelegant meeting of arrogance andauthority, with a sweeping spiralstaircase that delivers you to theprecise geometry of the upperfloors.

The Tweed Courthouse52 Chambers St. If City Hall is theacceptable face of New York’smunicipal bureaucracy, thegenteel-looking Victorian-style

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Tweed Courthouse is areminder of its infamousnineteenth-century corruption.The man behind the graymarble construction,WilliamMarcy “Boss”Tweed, worked hisway up to become chairman of

the Democratic CentralCommittee in 1856, steeringthe city’s revenues into both hisand his supporters’ pockets.Tweed’s grip strangled all dissentuntil a political cartoonist,Thomas Nast, turned publicopinion against him in the late1860s.

The Woolworth Building233 Broadway between Barclay St andPark Place. The world’s tallestskyscraper until it was surpassedin 1929 by the ChryslerBuilding, the WoolworthBuilding exudes money,ornament, and prestige.Thesoaring, graceful lines of CassGilbert’s 1913 “Cathedral ofCommerce” are fringed withGothic-style gargoyles anddecorations that are more forfun than any portentousallusion. Frank Woolworth madehis fortune from his “five anddime” stores – everything costeither 5¢ or 10¢, strictly nocredit.The whimsical reliefs at

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each corner of the lobby, openduring office hours, show himdoing just that: counting out themoney in nickels and dimes.The vaulted ceilings ooze withhoney-gold mosaics, and eventhe brass mailboxes aremagnificent.

The Municipal Building 1 Centre St, North Plaza. StraddlingChambers Street, the 25-storyMunicipal Building stands likean oversized chest of drawersacross Centre Street. Builtbetween 1908 and 1913, it wasarchitects McKim, Mead andWhite’s first skyscraper, but wasactually designed by one of theiryounger partners,WilliamMitchell Kendall.Atop it, anextravagant “wedding cake”tower signals a frivolousconclusion to a no-nonsensebuilding that houses publicrecords and a second-storywedding “chapel” for civilceremonies.

The Brooklyn BridgeOne of several spans across theEast River, the BrooklynBridge, with its arched gateways,is the most celebrated. It’s hardto believe it towered over thebrick structures around it uponopening in 1883 or that, fortwenty years after, it was theworld’s largest and longestsuspension bridge. Indeed, the

bridge’s meeting of art andfunction, of romantic Gothicand daring practicality, became asort of spiritual model for thenext generation’s skyscrapers.The bridge didn’t go upwithout difficulties: JohnAugustus Roebling, its architectand engineer, crushed his foottaking measurements and diedof gangrene, and twenty workersperished during construction.

Today, you can walk across itswooden planks from City HallPark, but it’s best not to lookback till you’re midway: theFinancial District’s giants cluttershoulder to shoulder throughthe spidery latticework of thecables; the East River pulsesbelow as cars hum to and fromBrooklyn – a glimpse of thetwenty-first-century metropolisand the Statue of Liberty that’son no account to be missed.

West Broadway West Broadway is one ofTriBeCa’s main thoroughfares,with several of theneighborhood’s best boutiquesand restaurants, old and new, thatthins out the further south thestreet goes.Across WestBroadway, at no. 14 NorthMoore at the intersection ofVarick, stands the former NewYork Fire Department’s Hookand Ladder Company #8, aturn-of-the-nineteenth-century

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brick-and-stone firehouse dottedwith white stars that played acrucial role in the rescue effortsof September 11th.

ShopsJ&R Music and ComputerWorld 15–23 Park Row between Beekmanand Ann sts, Mon–Sat 9am–7.30pm,Sunday 10am–6.30pm t212/238-9000. You’ll find some of thecity’s best prices for stereo andcomputer equipment here, aswell as a wide selection ofmusic, including some hard-to-find recordings.

Totem Design Group 71 Franklin St between Broadway andChurch St t212/925-5506. Displaysand sells the colorful creationsof over thirty US and Europeanindustrial designers.

Urban Archeology 143 Franklin St between Hudson andVarick sts t212/431-4646.Sensational finds for the homefrom salvaged buildings,including lighting fixtures andold-fashioned plumbing.

Galleries123 Watts 123 Watts St below Canal St byappointment only t212/219-1482,wwww.123watts.com. Contemporaryartwork in a variety of media,particularly specializing in workson paper.

Apex Art 291 Church St between Walker andWhite sts; Tues–Sat 11am–6pmt212/431-5270,wwww.apexart.org.The thematic multimediaexhibits here are known fortheir intellectual diversity.

Art in General 79 Walker St near Broadway Tues–Satnoon–6pm, closed June–Augt212/219-0473,wwww.artingeneral.org. This 25-year-oldexhibition space is devoted tothe unconventional art ofemerging artists.

Art Projects International 429 Greenwich St, Suite 5B byappointment only t212/343-2599,wwww.artprojects.com. Thiseminent gallery is highlyrespected for showing leadingcontemporary artists from Asia.

Cheryl Pelavin Fine Arts13 Jay St near Greenwich St Tues–Sat11am–6pm t212/925-9424,wwww.cherylpelavin.com. CherylPelavin develops and displaysnew artistic talent, notablyprintmakers.

RestaurantsBubby’s120 Hudson St between Franklin and NMoore sts t212/219-0666. Arelaxed TriBeCa restaurant

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serving homely health-conscious American food, suchas great scones, mashed potatoes,rosemary chicken, and soups.Agood, moderately priced brunchspot, too – the trout and eggs isa killer.

City Hall 131 Duane St between Church St andW Broadway t212/227-7777. Witha nod toward old-time NewYork City, City Hall is all class,with amazing steaks and always-fresh oysters.The open-roomambience, great service, andopportunity to rub shoulderswith celebs make the inevitablesplurge worth it.

Danube 30 Hudson St between Duane andReade sts t212/791-3771. OldVienna lives at this plush anddecadent Austrian, whereschnitzel is taken to heavenlyheights. It’s expensive but aterrific spot for a romanticevening on the town.

Le Zinc 139 Duane St between Church St andW Broadway t212/513-0001.Heavy-hitting chef-owners runthis low-key and decently

priced French spot with a livelybar made from zinc.

Montrachet 239 W Broadway between Walker andWhite sts t212/219-2777. Simplyone of the city’s best and mostenduring French restaurants,revered for its contemporarycuisine, stellar service, and deepwine cellar. $20 prix fixe lunchon Fridays.

Nobu 105 Hudson St at Franklin Stt212/219-0500. Robert DeNiro’s best-known restaurant,whose lavish woodland decorcomplements truly superlativeJapanese cuisine, especially sushi,at the ultra-high prices youwould expect.Try the black codwith miso. If you can’t get areservation, try Next Door Nobu,located just next door.

Odeon 145 W Broadway between Duane andThomas sts t212/233-0507. Odeonhas shown surprising stayingpower, perhaps because of theeclectic food choices, and thepeople-watching can’t bebeaten, although the acousticscould use some help. Entrees go

for $15–20 and, onthe whole, areworth it.

Sosa Borella460 Greenwich Stbetween Desbrossesand Watts stst212/431-5093.Tucked on a quietside street, thisArgentine-Mediterraneaneatery is alongtime favoriteof locals. Call toinquire abouttango nights.

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TriBeCa Grill 375 Greenwich St at Franklin Stt212/941-3900. Some comehoping for a glimpse of ownerRobert De Niro when theyshould really be concentratingon the food – fine Americancooking with Asian and Italianaccents at around $30 a maincourse.The setting is nice too;an airy, brick-walled eating areaaround a central Tiffany bar.

BarsBubble Lounge228 W Broadway between Franklin andWhite sts t212/431-3433. A plushplace to pop a cork or two –there’s a long list of champagnesand sparklers, but beware theskyrocketing tabs.

Dylan Prime62 Laight St at Greenwich Stt212/334-4783. Dim, romantic,and slightly off the beatenTribeca path, this is the place fora stellar martini.

Grace 114 Franklin St between Church St andW Broadway t212/343-4200. Anexcellent cocktail and olivesspot teeming with old-schoolclass – there’s a forty-footmahogany bar.Try a Pimm’sCup.

Liquor Store Bar 235 W Broadway atWhite St t212/226-7121. Homelylittle wood-paneled pub withsidewalk seatingthat feels like it’sbeen around sincecolonial times.Awelcome respitefrom the trendylocal scene.

Lush110 Duane St between Broadway andChurch St t212/766-1275. If you’relooking for a private and darkspot to tipple and cuddle, this isit. Sexy and secret, all the way.

No Moore 234 W Broadway at N Moore Stt212/925-2595. Sprawling,friendly lounge with live music.Mostly on weekends. It suitsmany that it’s past its prime.

Puffy’s Tavern 81 Hudson St between Harrison andJay sts t212/766-9159. Far frombeing P. Diddy’s hang-out, thissmall dive bar serves up cheapbooze and not an ounce ofattitude. Its cool jukeboxspecializes in old 45s.

Clubs and musicvenuesKnitting Factory 74 Leonard St between Church St andBroadway t212/219-3006,wwww.knittingfactory.com. At thisintimate downtown space, youcan hear all kinds of auralexperimentation, from art-rockand avant-garde jazz toelectronica, hip-hop, and indie-rock. Cover prices vary wildly,so call ahead.

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Chinatown andLittle ItalyWith more than 200,000 people, seven Chinese newspa-pers, twelve Buddhist temples, around 150 restaurants,and over 300 garment factories, Chinatown isManhattan’s most densely populated ethnic neighbor-hood. Since the Eighties, it has pushed its boundariesnorth across Canal Street into Little Italy and sprawlseast into the nether fringes of the Lower East Side.Walk through Chinatown’s crowded streets at any timeof day, and you’ll find restaurant after restaurant boom-ing; storefront displays of shiny squids, clawing crabs,and clambering lobsters; and street markets overflow-ing with piles of exotic green vegetables, garlic, andginger root. The red, green, and white tinsel decorationsand suited hosts who aggressively lure tourists to theirrestaurants in Little Italy are undeniable signs thattoday’s neighborhood is light years away from the solidethnic enclave of old. Few Italians still live here; someoriginal bakeries and salumerias (Italian specialty foodstores) have survived, however, and there are still plentyof places to indulge yourself with a cappuccino andpricey pastry.

Mott StreetMott Street is Chinatown’s mostobvious tourist restaurant row,although the streets around –Canal, Pell, Bayard, Doyers, andBowery – host a glut ofrestaurants, tea and rice shops,and Old Country grocers thatare fun to browse in. Cantonesecuisine predominates, but thereare also many restaurants thatspecialize in the spicierSzechuan and Hunan cuisines,along with Fukien, Soochow,and the spicy Chowchou dishes.Anywhere you enter is likely tobe good, but remember thatmost restaurants start closing uparound 10pm so go early.

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Church of the Transfiguration 29 Mott St.The 1801 green-domed Catholic school andChurch of the Transfiguration isa rare and elegant Georgianedifice, predating the Chinesearrival, that recently underwentmassive renovations. Masses areheld in Cantonese, English, andMandarin.

Museum of Chinese in theAmericas70 Mulberry St, 2nd fl; Tues–Sunnoon–5pm suggested admission $3,students and seniors $1, under 12 freet212/619-4785,wwww.moca-nyc.org. This tiny fascinatingmuseum is dedicated to theexperiences of Chineseimmigrants in the Americas aswell as to reclaiming andpreserving Chinese history in

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the West. Displays includephotographs and culturalmemorabilia, temporary exhibitsof Asian-American art, and aslideshow on the history ofChinatown.The museum offersan excellent and informativeguided historical group tour ofChinatown ($12, call threeweeks ahead to book).

Mahayana Buddhist Temple133 Canal St; daily 8am–6pm;t212/925-8787. On ConfuciusPlaza, the gilded MahayanaBuddhist Temple appeals for itsfairy lights, neon circlets, andthe gold Buddha that dominatesthe main room, if not the 32plaques telling the story ofBuddha himself.

Canal StreetCanal Street is Chinatown’smain all-hours artery crammedwith jewelry shops and kioskshawking sunglasses,T-shirts, andfake Rolexes.At the eastern endof the thoroughfare, the 1909Manhattan Bridge’s grandBeaux Arts entrance marks aformal end to Chinatown andalmost seems out of place amidthe neon signs and Cantonesemovie theaters.

Grand StreetWhile Grand Street used to bethe city’s Main Street in themid-1800s, nowadays you willfind outdoor fruit, vegetable,and live seafood stands liningthe curbs, offering snow peas,bean curd, fungi, orientalcabbage, and dried seacucumbers to the passersby.Ribs, whole chickens, andPeking ducks glisten in thestorefront windows, alongsidethose of Chinese herbalists.Theroots and powders in theirboxes, drawers, and glass bottlesare century-old remedies but, tothose accustomed to Westernmedicine, may seem likevoodoo potions.

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Mulberry Street Little Italy’s main strip,Mulberry Street, is home tomany of the area’s cafés andrestaurants – and therefore filledwith tourists.There are nostand-out restaurants to speakof, although the former site ofUmberto’s Clam House, on thecorner of Mulberry and Hesterstreets, was notorious in its timeas the scene of a viciousgangland murder in 1972, whenJoe “Crazy Joey” Gallo was shotdead while celebrating hisbirthday with his wife anddaughter.

Old St Patrick’s Cathedral263 Mulberry St at Prince St .Thefirst Catholic cathedral in thecity, Old St Patrick’s Cathedralbegan by serving the Irishimmigrant community in 1809and is the parent church to itsmuch more famous offspring onFifth Avenue and 50th Street.

Old Police HeadquartersStriking counterpoint to thelawlessness of the Italianunderworld can be found at thecorner of Centre and Broomestreets, where you’ll find theOld Police Headquarters, apalatial 1909 Neoclassicalconstruction meant to cowwould-be criminals with its

high-rise dome and lavishornamentation.The policeheadquarters moved in 1973,and the somewhat overbearingpalace was converted intoupmarket condominiums, someof which have been called homeby Steffi Graf,Winona Ryder,and Maya Angelou.

ShopsAlleva Dairy188 Grand St at Mulberry Stt212/226-7990. Oldest Italianformaggiaio (cheesemonger) andgrocery in America. Makes ownsmoked mozzarella, provolone,and ricotta.

DiPaolo Dairy 200 Grand St at Mott St t212/226-1033. Charming andauthoritative family-run businessthat sells some of the city’s bestricotta, along with a fineselection of aged balsamicvinegars, oils, and homemadepastas.

Kam Man Food Products 200 Canal St between Mott andMulberry sts t212/571-0330.

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Chinatown’s best resource forAsian gourmets; you’ll findimported foods and terrificbargains on housewares,including bamboo steamers anda large selection of tea sets.

Pearl Paint Company 308 Canal St between Church St andBroadway t212/431-7932. Housedin a jolly old red-and-whitewarehouse in the heart ofChinatown, Pearl claims to bethe largest art supply store inthe world. It has five floors ofcompetitively priced artsupplies, including fabric paintand airbrushing and silk-screening equipment.

Cafés Ferrara 195 Grand St between Mott andMulberry sts t212/226-6150. LittleItaly’s oldest and most popularcafé, serving locals from the oldcountry and tourists since 1892.

Tea and Tea51 Mott St at Bayard St t 212/766-9889. Wildly popular Chinesesoda fountain serving bubbleteas with tapioca pearls, madefrom sweet potato, cassava root,and brown sugar.

RestaurantsBig Wong 67 Mott St between Bayard and Canalsts t212/964-0540. This cafeteria-style Cantonese BBQ jointserves some of Chinatown’stastiest duck and congee (savoryrice stew).

Bo Ky 80 Bayard St between Mott andMulberry sts t212/406-2292.Cramped Chinese-Vietnamese

serving very inexpensive noodlesoups and seafood dishes.Thehouse specialty is a big bowl ofrice noodles with shrimp, fish,or duck.

Excellent Dumpling House 111 Lafayette St between Canal andWalker sts t212/219-0212. Thething to order is obviously themost excellent dumplings, lotsof them, any way you like them.Their scallion pancakes are alsodelicious.

Lombardi’s 32 Spring St between Mott andMulberry sts t212/941-7994. Theoldest pizzeria in Manhattanserves some of the best pies intown, including an amazingclam pizza; no slices, though.Ask for roasted garlic on theside.

New York Noodletown 28 Bowery at Bayard St t212/349-0923. Despite the name, noodlesaren’t the real draw at thisdown-to-earth eatery – the soft-shell crabs are crisp, salty, anddelicious. Good roast meats (trythe baby pig) and soups too.

Nha Trang 87 Baxter St between Bayard andCanal sts t212/233-5948. Nevermind the rushed service here,this Chinese-Vietnameserestaurant offers some of theneighborhood’s most deliciousand affordable meals.

Nyonya 194 Grand St between Mott andMulberry sts t212/334-3669. SuperbMalaysian grub at wallet-friendlyprices. Order some coconut milk– served chilled in the shell.

Peking Duck House 28 Mott St between Chatham Squareand Pell St t212/227-1810.This

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chic and shiny clean eaterydishes up – you guessed it –duck. Be sure your crispy friedbird is carved tableside.

Ping’s Seafood 22 Mott St between Bayard and Pell stst212/602-9988. While this HongKong seafood restaurant is goodanytime, it’s most enjoyable onweekends for dim sum, whencarts of tasty, bite-size delicacieswhirl by for the taking everythirty seconds.

Shanghai Cuisine 89 Bayard St at Mulberry Stt212/732-8988. The thing toorder here is the crab-pork soupdumplings – they’ll make youswoon.At night Polynesian-styletiki drinks flow for an extragood time.

Sweet ‘n’ Tart Restaurant20 Mott St at Canal St t212/964-0380. The place for shark’s-finsoup and other Hong Kong-style seafood delicacies, as wellas superb dim sum.Verypopular, so expect to wait.

Thailand106 Bayard St at Baxter Stt212/349-3132.The well-pricedThai food here is eaten at longcommunal tables.The wholefish dishes, crispy and spicy, arestandouts.

Vincent’s 119 Mott St at Hester St t212/226-8133. A Little Italy mainstaythat’s been around for decades

and serves fresh, cheap, and spicyseafood dishes – clams, mussels,and squid. Its cafeteria decor hasits local charms.

BarsDouble Happiness174 Mott St at Broome St t212/941-1282. Low ceilings, dark lighting,and lots of nooks and cranniesmake this downstairs bar anintimate place, but there’s notmuch besides its name that isAsian. If the decor doesn’tseduce you, one of the housespecialties – a green tea martini– should soon loosen you up.

Mare Chiaro 176-1/2 Mulberry St between Broomeand Grande sts t212/226-9345.Looks like a backroom hang-out from the Sopranos but isreally a favorite local dive barfor all.

Sweet & Vicious 5 Spring St between Bowery andElizabeth St t212/334-7915. Aneighborhood favorite, it’s theepitome of rustic chic with itsexposed brick and wood, repletewith antique chandeliers.Theatmosphere makes it seem allcozy, as does the back garden.

Winnie’s 104 Bayard St between Baxter andMulberry sts t212/732-2384.Cheesytunes dominate at this tropicallounge-cum-karaoke dive barthat’s a hit with everyone fromhipsters to Asian tourists.

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SoHo The grid of streets between Houston and Canal, SoHo(short for South of Houston) was a gray wasteland ofmanufacturers and wholesalers in the nineteenth centu-ry, known for its distinctive cast-iron arhcitecture, thateven up to the 1960s was considered a slum. Sincethen, it has come to signify fashion chic, urbane shop-ping, and art, and its high-end chains attract hordes oftourists. It’s a grand place for brunching at an outsidecafé or poking in and out of chi-chi antique and clothesshops, and there are a few good galleries to speak of.

The Haughwout Building88–92 Broadway. The magnificent1857 Haughwout Building isperhaps the ultimate in the cast-iron architectural genre.Rhythmically repeated motifs ofcolonnaded arches are framed

behind taller columns in thisthin sliver of a Venetian-stylepalace – the first building everto boast a steam-powered Otiselevator.

The Little Singer Building 561 Broadway. In 1904, ErnestFlagg took the possibilities ofcast iron to their conclusion inthis office and warehouse forthe sewing machine company, atwelve-story terracotta designwhose use of wide windowframes pointed the way to theglass curtain wall of the 1950s.

NoLitaJust east of Broadway and southof Houston Street, fashion, style,and nonchalant living have foundfertile breeding ground in thearea referred to as NoLita(“North of Little Italy”). Everystreet is lined with designer

Cast-iron architectureSoHo contains one of the largest collections of cast-iron buildings in the world,erected on these cobblestone streets between 1869 and 1895. Cast-iron archi-tecture was to assemble buildings quickly and cheaply, with iron beams ratherthan heavy walls carrying the weight of the floors. The result was greater spacefor windows and remarkably decorative facades. Glorifying SoHo’s sweatshops,architects indulged themselves in Baroque balustrades, forests of Renaissancecolumns, and all the effusion of the French Second Empire. Many fine examplesof cast-iron architecture can be glimpsed along Broadway and Greene Street.

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boutiques, coffeehouses, andrestaurants, and it’s not cheap, butthe young, artsy, and restless whohang outside the area’sproliferation of über-trendy spotsmake it an excellent place for alate-afternoon drink and a spotof beautiful-people watching.

Shops 555-Soul 290 Lafayette St between Prince andSpring sts t212/431-2404. A must-visit for hip-hop kids andskateboarders, this store ischockablock full of baggy pants,hats,T-shirts, and bags for everyB-boy and girl.

Dean and Deluca 560 Broadway at Prince St t212/226-6800. One of the original big

neighborhood food emporia.Very chic, very SoHo, and notat all cheap.

Henry Lehr 232 Elizabeth St between Houston andPrince sts t212/274-9921. Ashopper’s haven for T-shirts anda la mode jeans. Swing by as theseason wanes for the best deals.

Ina 21 Prince St between Elizabeth andMott sts t212/334-9048. Favoriteconsignment shop selling recentseason cast-offs. Full of bargains;there’s a men’s branch too.

Kate Spade 454 Broome St at Mercer Stt212/274-1991. Showroom andstore for one of the city’s hottestaccessory gurus – products arepreppy but have point of view.

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Kate’s Paperie 561 Broadway between Prince andSpring sts t212/941-9816. Anykind of paper you can imagineor want, including greathandmade and exotic paper. Ifyou can’t find something – ask;they’ll even custom-makestationery for you.

Language 238 Mulberry St between Prince andSpring sts t212/431-5566. Youmay have to take out a loan toshop at Language, where art,beauty, and fashion combine tostunning effect.A sure bet forthe most original designer labels.

Mixona 262 Mott St between Houston andPrince sts t646/613-0100.Gorgeous (and expensive) grabsfor those with a fetish forundergarments that are bothsexy and functional.

MoMA Design Store 81 Spring St at Crosby St t646/613-1367. A trove of designed goodsthat range from cheap toastronomical. Good forbrowsing and gift ideas.

Moss 146 Greene St between Houston andPrince sts t212/226-2190.Exceptionally curated gallery-boutique selling unusualexamples of great contemporary

industrial design –some atreasonable prices.

Pierre Garroudi 139 Thompson Stbetween Houston andPrince sts t212/475-2333. A limiteddesign line withunusual fabrics,colors, and styles.

Bias-cut dresses, weddinggowns, and tailored suits go forreasonable prices.All of theclothes are made on thepremises, and they can make anyitem for you overnight.

Push240 Mulberry St between Prince andSpring sts t212/965-9699. One ofthe city’s hippest jewelry stores,where one-of-a-kind items aredisplayed amid breezysurroundings on dollhousefurniture.

Seize Sur Veinte 243 Elizabeth St between Houston andPrince sts t212/343-0476.Boutique known for itsexquisite hand-tailored shirts.

GalleriesArtists Space 38 Greene St Tues–Sat 11am–6pmt212/226-3970,Wwww.artistsspace.org. This video, performanceart, architecture, and design spacehas been a SoHo mainstay forover thirty years.

The Drawing Center 35 Wooster St Tues–Fri 10am–6pm,Sat 11am–6pm t212/219-2166,Wwww.drawingcenter.org.Contemporary and historicaldrawing exhibits are the orderof the day at this committednonprofit organization.

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Ronald Feldman Fine Arts 31 Mercer St Tues–Sat 10am–6pmt212/226-3232,Wwww.feldmangallery.com. Devoted tocontemporary work, Feldmanoften focuses on graphicdesign.

Slingshot Project 66 66 Crosby St 11am–7pm Tues–Satt212/343-9694,Wwww.slingshotproject.com. Expect all manner ofmedia from this project, whichshowcases emerging artists fromParis and New York City. Oneof the city’s most exciting newgalleries.

CafésGitane 242 Mott St between Houston andPrince sts t212/334-9552. Comehere to brush up on your Frenchand settle into a bowl of café aulait. Just make sure your personalfashion makes a statement.

Le Pain Quotidien100 Grand St between Greene andMercer sts t212/625-9009.Farmhouse tables, giant cafés aulait, and rustic accents make forcomfortable and satisfying pick-me-ups during a day ofshopping.

Once Upon aTart135 Sullivan Stbetween Houstonand Prince stst212/387-8869.Good forreasonablypriced lightlunches andsugar cravings,and oh soquaint (andcramped).

RestaurantsAquagrill 210 Spring St at Sixth Ave t212/274-0505. At this accommodatingSoHo spot, you’ll find seafoodso fresh it’s still flapping.Theexcellent raw bar and Sundaybrunch are not prohibitivelyupscale.

Balthazar 80 Spring St between Crosby St andBroadway t212/965-1414. One ofthe hottest reservations in town,Balthazar’s tastefully ornateParisian decor and nonstopbeautiful people keep your eyesbusy until the food arrives.Thenyou can savor the fresh oysters andmussels, the exquisite pastries, andeverything in between. It’s worththe money and the attitude.

Blue Ribbon Sushi119 Sullivan St between Prince andSpring sts t212/343-0404. Widelyconsidered one of the best andfreshest sushi restaurants in NewYork, but its lines can be longand it doesn’t allow reservations.Have some cold sake and relax– the kitchen is open until 2am.

Café Lebowitz 14 Spring St at Elizabeth Stt212/219-2399. Cool mid-priced

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French bistro serving stick-to-your-ribs seasonal risottos ($12)and excellent Hungariangoulash ($14.50).

Cendrillon 45 Mercer St between Broome andGrand sts t212/343-9012. Thisfine pan-Asian restaurant, run bya passionate Filipino couple,serves consistently exceptionalfood, such as its vinegary adobo,not to mention creativecocktails with rare fruit andspice infusions.The prices aredecent, and the desserts willmake you swoon.

Dos Caminos 475 W Broadway at Houston Stt212/277-4300. Thoughtful, real-deal Mexican served with style– try the table-side guacamole.

L’Ecole 462 Broadway at Grand St t212/219-3300. Students of the FrenchCulinary Institute serve upaffordable Gallic delights here –and they rarely fail.The three-course prix-fixe dinner costs$29.95 per person; book inadvance. Closed Sun.

Kelley & Ping 127 Greene St between Prince andHouston sts t212/228-1212. Sleekpan-Asian tea room and

restaurant that serves a tastybowl of noodle soup. Darkwooden cases filled with Thaiherbs and cooking ingredientsadd to the casually elegant (andunusual) setting.

Mercer Kitchen 99 Prince St at Mercer St in MercerHotel t212/966-5454. This hipbasement hangout and eateryfor hotel guests and scenestersentices with the casual culinarycreations of star chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten, whomakes ample use of his raw barand wood-burning oven.Try theroasted lamb sandwich ($15).

Peasant 194 Elizabeth St between Prince andSpring sts t212/965-9511. A bit of ahangout after-hours for city chefs,here you’ll pay around $22–30 forhearty grilled entrees, such as lambor fish, served from an openkitchen.

Raoul’s 180 Prince St between Sullivan andThompson sts t212/966-3518. Thissexy French bistro iscomfortable, authentic, andentertaining for its people-watching into the night.Abeloved New York standby.

Rialto 265 Elizabeth St betweenHouston and Prince stst212/334-7900. Serioushome-style Americancooking in unlikelysurroundings – anelegant room withcurved red leatherbanquettes, filled withbeautiful, chic people,and a refreshing gardenin back. Not as expensiveas the clientele lookseither.

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Spring Street NaturalRestaurant62 Spring St at Lafayette Stt212/966-0290. Not whollyvegetarian, but very good,freshly prepared health foodserved in a large airy space.Moderately priced, with entreesfrom $9 on up.Very popularwith locals, but crowds add tosometimes already slow service.

Woo Lae Oak 148 Mercer St between Prince andHouston sts t212/925-8200. Here,succulent Korean BBQ is onorder; its grill-your-own meatmandate makes for a festiveatmosphere.

BarsBar 89 89 Mercer St between Spring andBroome sts t212/274-0989. Slick,

modern lounge with soft bluelight spilling down over the bar,giving the place a trippy, pre-dawn feel. Check out the clearliquid crystal bathroom doorsthat go opaque when shut($10,000 each, reportedly) andthe strong, pricey drinks thatpay for them.

Fanelli’s 94 Prince St at Mercer St t212/226-9412. Established in 1872,Fanelli’s is one of the city’soldest bars, relaxed and informaland a favorite of the not-too-hip after-work crowd.

Merc Bar 151 Mercer St between Houston andPrince sts t212/966-2727. SoHo’soriginal cocktail lounge, thisonce super-trendy wateringhole has aged nicely.

Pravda 281 Lafayette St between Prince andHouston sts t212/226-4944. Thischic Russian lounge serves stiff(and potent) vodka drinks andhard-boiled eggs for snacking.Now that its heyday has passed,there are fewer crowds, hence amore relaxed vibe.

Clubs and musicvenues

Don Hill’s 511 Greenwich St at Spring Stt212/334-1390. Some of the mostsexually diverse parties in thecity happen here, where Brit-poptastic bands warm up thecrowd before the real stars – theDJs – take the stage. $10–15.

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The Lower East SideHistorically the epitome of the American ethnic meltingpot, the Lower East Side was home to over a millionJewish immigrants in the 1920s. While a fair proportionof its inhabitants today are working-class Latino orAsian, you are just as likely to find students, moneyedartsy types, and other refugees from the overly gentri-fied areas of SoHo and the nearby East Village, a blendthat makes this one of the city’s most enthralling neigh-borhoods and one of its hippest areas for shopping,drinking, dancing, and – what else? – food.

Houston StreetHouston (pronounced“Howston”) Street is a busytwo-lane stretch that runs alongthe top of the Lower East Side,cutting across Manhattan fromjust a few blocks of the HudsonRiver on the west side of theisland all the way to the EastRiver. Houston’s eastern reacheshold some of the mainattractions of the Lower EastSide, namely places to sampletraditional Jewish foods.

Orchard StreetThe center of the Lower EastSide’s so-called Bargain District,Orchard is best visited on

weekends when filled with stallsand storefronts hawkingdiscounted designer clothes andbags.The rooms above the storeshere used to house sweatshops,so named because whatever theweather, a stove had to be keptwarm for pressing the clothesthat were made there. Much ofthe garment industry moveduptown ages ago, and the roomsare a bit more salubrious now –often home to priceyapartments.

Lower East Side Tenement Museum90 Orchard St between Broome andDelancey sts, Mon–Wed & Fri

11am–5.30pm, Thurs11am–7pm, Sat &Sun 11am–6pm; $10,students and seniors$8 t212/431-0233,wwww.tenement.org.This excellentlocal museumoffers a glimpseinto thecrumbling,claustrophobicinterior of an1863 tenement,with itsdeceptivelyelegant, thoughghostly, entry hall� L O W E R E A S T S I D E T E N E M E N T M U S E U M

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and two communal toilets forevery four families. Guidedtours include the Getting By:Weathering the GreatDepressions of 1873 and 1929Tour (Tues–Fri, every 40minutes from 1–4pm; free withmuseum admission) and thekid-friendly Confino FamilyApartment Tour (Sat & Sunhourly noon–3pm; $9, studentsand seniors $7).The museumalso offers an hour-long Sundaywalking tour of the Lower EastSide’s ethnic neighborhoods(call for times).

Delancey and Clinton streetsOrchard Street bisects DelanceyStreet, the lower horizontal axis

of the Jewish Lower East Side,which extends to the 1903Williamsburg Bridge toBrooklyn. Much of this area haslost the traditional Sunday bustleof Jewish market shopping,which has been replaced by theSaturday afternoon Spanishchatter of the new residentsshopping for records,inexpensive clothes, andelectrical goods. Nearby ClintonStreet is an unusualthoroughfare mixing cheapLatino retailers and finerestaurants, and is in many waysthe central thoroughfare of theDominican Lower East Side.

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Essex Street MarketMon–Sat 8am–6pm. On either sideof Delancey Street sprawls theEssex Street Market, erectedunder the aegis of MayorLaGuardia in the 1930s whenpushcarts were made illegal(ostensibly because they cloggedthe streets, but mainly becausethey competed with establishedbusinesses). Here, you’ll find allsorts of fresh fruit, fish, andvegetables, along with randomclothing bargains and theoccasional trinket or piece oftat.

The BoweryThe western edge of the LowerEast Side is marked by theBowery, which runs as far northas Cooper Square on the edgeof the East Village.The widethoroughfare began its existenceas the city’s main agriculturalsupplier but was later flanked bymusic halls, vaudeville theaters,hotels, and middle-marketrestaurants, drawing people fromnear and far. Something of askid row, today it’s becomingincreasingly known forrestaurants and supply stores.

Eldridge Street Synagogue12 Eldridge St between Canal andDivision sts, tours offered Tues & Thursat 11.30am and 2.30pm; Sun hourly11am–4pm; $5, students and seniors$3 t212/219-0888. Constructed in1887, the Eldridge StreetSynagogue was in its day one ofthe Lower East Side’s jewels.Abrick and terracotta hybrid ofMoorish and Gothic influences,it was known for its richwoodwork and stained glasswindows, including the westwing rose window – aspectacular Star of Davidroundel. Concerts are regularlyheld in this majestic structure;call the number above forcurrent listings.

ShopsGuss’ Lower East SidePickles 85-87 Orchard St between Broome andDelancey sts. People line up outsidethis storefront to buy fresh home-made pickles, olives, and otheryummy picnic staples from hugebarrels of garlicky brine.

Il Laboratorio del Gelato95 Orchard St at Broome Stt212/343-9922. This new shrineto cream and sugar serves upover 75 flavors, and the ownercan be seen making his creativeconcoctions in stainless steelvats.

Kossar’s Bialys 367 Grand St between Essex andNorfolk sts t212/473-4810. Agenerations-old kosher treasureserves, bar none, the city’s bestbialys, a flattened savory doughtraditionally topped with onion.

Russ & Daughters 179 E Houston St between Allen andOrchard sts t212/475-4880. The

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original Manhattan gourmetshop, sating the appetites ofhomesick immigrant Jews,selling smoked fish, caviar,pickled vegetables, cheese, andbagels.This is one of the oldest,set up about 1900, and one ofthe best.

Yonah Schimmel KnishBakery 137 E Houston St between 1st and 2ndaves t212/477-2858. This place hasbeen making and selling some ofNew York’s best knishes since1910. Quite different to thethings you buy from street stalls,and well worth trying.

Restaurants

71 Clinton Fresh Food 71 Clinton St between Rivington andStanton sts t212/614-6960.Popular with foodies andhipsters alike, this pocket-sizespot serves some of the bestgourmet fare in the city.

Congee Village100 Allen St at Delancy St t212/941-1818. Superb Chinese food,killer cosmos, and privatekaraoke rooms all make for aguaranteed good time here, andit’s reasonably priced to boot.

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Katz’s 205 E Houston St at Ludlow Stt212/254-2246. VenerableLower East Side Jewish deliserving archetypal overstuffedpastrami and corned-beefsandwiches into the wee hoursof the night.

Sammy’s RoumanianSteakhouse 157 Chrystie St at Delancey Stt212/673-0330. This basementJewish steakhouse gives dinersmore than they bargained for:schmaltzy songs, delicious-but-heartburn-inducing food(topped off by home-maderugalach and egg creams fordessert), and chilled vodka inblocks of ice. Keep track of yourtab, if you can.

Schiller’s 131 Rivington St at Norfolk Stt212/260-4555. Well-pricedtrendy bistro with beautifulclientele featuring a hodge-podge menu with tuna burgersand good steaks with yourchoice of classic sauces.

WD-50 50 Clinton St between Rivington andStanton sts t212/477-2900.Celebrated chef WylieDuFresne takes on theSurrealists at this new anddaring American eatery.Yourtaste buds and wallet may bechallenged but the experience iswell worth it.

Bars169 Bar 169 E Broadway at Rutgers Stt212/473-8866. This urbanhangout features a pool table,kicking DJs, and the occasionallive performer.

Barramundi 147 Ludlow St between Stanton andRivington sts t212/529-6900. Laid-back bar with a magical, fairy-litgarden that provides sanctuaryfrom the increasingly hipsurroundings. Come 10pmthough, the garden closes andyou’ve got to move inside.

Barrio Chino253 Broome St at Orchard Stt212/228-6710. Don’t beconfused by the Chineselanterns or drink umbrellas here– the owner’s specialty istequila, and there are dozens tochoose from. Shots are evenserved with the traditionalsangria chaser made from ablend of tomato, orange, andlime juices.

Happy Ending 302 Broome St between Eldridge andForsythe sts t212/334-9676. Thisduplex hotspot milks itslocation’s former past as amassage parlour of ill repute; adrink in one of its shower stallnooks might make some feelnaughty.

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Lansky Lounge & Grill104 Norfolk St between Delancey andRivington sts t212/677-9489. Witha hidden, back-alleywayentrance, this former speakeasywas once a haunt of gangsterMeyer Lansky. The adjacentsteakhouse serves a succulentbone-in rib-eye, but most comefor the drinks.

Max Fish 178 Ludlow St between Houston andStanton sts t212/529-3959. Visitingindie rock bands come here indroves, lured by theunpretentious but arty vibe andthe jukebox which, quite simply,rocks any other party out oftown. Cheap beers too.

Orchard Bar 200 Orchard St between Houston andStanton sts t212/673-5350. ALower East Side stalwart thatfeatures walls lined with glassdisplay cases, filled with natureand neon lights, cozy recesses towhisper in, and some of thenicest bar staff in town.

Clubs and musicvenuesArlene’s Grocery 95 Stanton St between Ludlow andOrchard sts t212/358-1633,

wwww.arlene-grocery.com. Thisintimate, erstwhilebodega hosts free gigsby local indie talentduring the week.Monday is“Punk/Heavy MetalKaraoke” night, whenyou can wail along(with a live band, noless) to your favorite

Stooges and Led Zeppelinsongs.

The Bowery Ballroom 6 Delancey St at the Boweryt212/533-2111,wwww.boweryballroom.com. Aminimum of attitude, greatsound, and even better sightlinesmake this a local favorite to seewell-known indie-rock bands.Shows $12–25. Pay in cash atthe Mercury Lounge box office(see below), at the door, or bycredit card through Ticketweb.

The Mercury Lounge217 E Houston St between Ludlow andEssex sts t212/260-4700,wwww.mercuryloungenyc.com. Thedark, medium-sized, innocuousspace showcases a mix of local,national, and international popand rock acts.Around $8–15.Purchase tickets in cash at thebox office, at the door, or viaTicketweb.

Tonic 107 Norfolk St between Rivington andDelancey sts t212/358-7503,wwww.tonicnyc.com. This hipLower East Side home to“avant-garde, creative andexperimental music” flourisheson two levels, with no covercharge to the lower lounge.Occasional movies andKlezmer-accompanied brunchon Sundays. Cover charge is$8–12.

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The East VillageOnce a solidly working class refuge of immigrants, theEast Village, ranging east of Broadway to Avenue Dbetween Houston and 14th streets, became home toNew York’s nonconformist intelligentsia in the early partof the twentieth century and formed part of its grittycore up into the Eighties. During the Nineties, escalatingrents forced many people out, but it remains one ofdowntown Manhattan’s most vibrant neighborhoods,with boutiques, thrift stores, record shops, bars, andrestaurants, populated by a mix of old-world Ukrainians,students, punks, artists, and burn-outs.

Astor Place Astor Place marks the westernfringe of the East Village, andbefore the Civil War, it was oneof the city’s most desirableaddresses. One of New York’sgreediest moneymakers – JohnJacob Astor himself – lived onLafayette Street in the 1830s, andthe replicated old-fashioned kioskof the Astor Place subway stationdepicts beavers on the coloredmosaic reliefs of its platforms,recalling Astor’s first big killings –in the fur trade.Theunmistakeable orange-brick AstorBuilding with arched windows iswhere John Jacob Astor III

conducted business, while thebalancing steel cube (1967) byBernard Rosenthal dominates thecenter of the intersection.

Merchant’s House Museum29 E 4th St between Lafayette St andthe Bowery Thurs–Mon 1–5pm $6,students and seniors $4 t212/777-1089,wwww.merchantshouse.com.Constructed in 1832, this fineFederalist building is anineteenth-century family homewhose interior and exteriorgrounds have been preserved as amuseum.The magnificentinterior contains the genuineproperty, including furniture

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fashioned by New York’s bestcabinetmakers of the day, andpersonal possessions of thehouse’s original inhabitants.Weekend tours are led byenthusiastic volunteers, yet youcan amble through the five floorsof sumptuous surroundings alone– just don’t miss the perfectlymanicured garden behind.

The Cooper Union Cooper Square t212/353-4100.Erected in 1859 by wealthyindustrialist Peter Cooper as acollege for the poor, it’s best

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N EATING & DRINKING7BAce BarAngel’s ShareB & H DairyBlue GooseBondStBrick Lane Curry HouseBurp CastleChez Es Saadad.b.a.DecibelDok SuniFirstHoliday Cocktail LoungeJack’s Luxury Oyster BarJulesKGBLakeside LoungeMama’s Food ShopMcSorley’s Old Ale HouseMermaid InnPodunk CaféPruneSEA ThaiSecond Avenue DeliShabu TatsuSt Dymphna’sStandardStar FoodsTemple BarThé AdoréTime CaféVeniero’sVeselkaZum Schneider

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Grace ChurchBroadway and East 10th St t212/254-2000. The lacy marble of Gracewas built and designed in 1846by James Renwick (of StPatrick’s Cathedral fame) in adelicate Neo-Gothic style. Darkand aisled, with a flattened,web-vaulted ceiling, it wassomething of a society churchin its day – and is nowadays oneof the city’s most secretiveescapes, and frequently offersshelter to the less fortunate.

known as the place where, in1860,Abraham Lincoln wowedan audience of top New Yorkerswith his so-called “might makesright” speech, in which heboldly criticized the pro-slaverypolicies of the Southern states –an event that helped propel himto the White House later thatyear.Today, Cooper Union is aworking and prestigious art andarchitecture school, whosenineteenth-century glory isevoked with a statue of thebenevolent Cooper just in front.

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St Mark’s Place The East Village’s main drag, StMark’s Place stretches east fromCooper Union to TompkinsSquare Park. On one blockbetween Seventh and Ninthstreets and Second and Thirdavenues, independent book anddiscount record stores competefor space with hippy-chicclothiers,T-shirt shops, and fast-food chains.With gentrification,the street’s once-vivid aura ofcool has all but disappeared.

St Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery 131 East 10th St at 2nd Avet212/674-0910. The oldestchurch in continuous use in thecity, this box-like Episcopalianedifice was originally built in1799 but sports a Neoclassicalportico added half a centurylater. It was home to Beat poetryreadings in the 1950s, and in the1960s the St Mark’s PoetryProject was founded here toignite artistic and social change.Today, it remains an importantliterary rendezvous, with regularreadings, dance performances,and music recitals.

Tompkins Square Park Fringed by avenues A and B andEast Seventh and Tenth streets,Tompkins Square Park was oneof the city’s greatcenters forpolitical protestand homes ofradical thought. Inthe Sixties, regulardemonstrationswere organizedhere, and duringthe 1980s, thepark was more orless a shantytownuntil the homelesswere kicked outin 1991.

At 151 Avenue B, on theeastern side of the park, isfamous saxophonist andcomposer Charlie Parker’s house,a simple whitewashed 1849structure with a Gothic doorway.The Bird lived here from 1950until 1954, when he died of apneumonia-related hemorrhage.

Alphabet CityNamed for the grid of avenuesnamed A–D, where the islandbulges out beyond the city’s gridstructure,Alphabet City was notlong ago a notoriously unsafepatch, with burnt-out buildingsthat were well-known safehousesfor the brisk heroin trade. Nowit’s one of the most dramaticallyrevitalized areas of Manhattan:crime is down, many of thevacants lots have been made intocommunity gardens, and thestreets have become the haunt ofmoneyed twenty-somethingsand daring tourist youth. OnlyAvenue D might still give yousome pause; the other avenueshave some of the coolest bars,cafés, and stores in the city.

ShopsAstor Place Hair Designers 2 Astor Place between Broadway andLafayette St t212/475-9854. Locals

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and visitors line up six deephere for any and all kinds ofcuts; $15 and up.

East Village Cheese Store40 3rd Ave between E 9th and 10th stst 212/477-2601. The city’s mostaffordable source for cheese; itsfront-of-the-store bins sellpungent blocks and wedges ofthe stuff starting at just 50c.

Kiehl’s 109 3rd Ave between E 13th and 14thsts t212/677-3171. An exclusive150-year-old pharmacy that sellsits own range of naturalingredient-based classic creamsand oils.

Love Saves the Day 119 2nd Ave at E 7th St t212/228-3802. Fairly cheap vintage as wellas classic lunchboxes and otherkitschy nostalgia items, includingvaluable Kiss and Star Wars dolls.

Other Music 15 E 4th St between Broadway andLafayette St t212/477-8150. Thisexcellent small shop has perhapsthe most engaging and curiousindie-rock and avant-gardecollection in the city. Recordshere are divided into categorieslike “In,”“Out,” and “Then.”

Screaming Mimi’s 382 Lafayette St at E 4th Stt212/677-6464. One of themost established vintage storesin Manhattan, ScreamingMimi’s offers clothes (includinglingerie), bags, shoes, andhousewares at reasonableprices.

Strand Bookstore828 Broadway at E 12th St t212/473-1452,wwww.strandbooks.com.With about eightmiles of books and a stock of

2.5 million+, this is the largestbook operation in the city.Recent review copies and newbooks show up at half price;older books are from 50¢ up.

Trash ’n’ Vaudeville4 St Mark’s Place between 2nd and 3rdaves t212/982-3590. Great clothes,new and “antique,” in the trueEast Village spirit, includingclassic lace-up muscle shirts.

CafésThé Adoré17 E 13th St, between 5th Ave andUniversity Place T212/243-8742.Charming little tearoom withexcellent pastries, Japanesescones, and croissants. Daytimehours only; closed Sundays

Podunk Café 231 E 5th St between 2nd Ave andCooper Square t212/677-7722. Thedesserts at this warm and fuzzybakery-café have been knownto bring some to tears; scones,savory quiches, and chewy,unbelievably delicious coconutbars are all good bets.

Veniero’s 342 E 11th St between 1st and 2ndaves t212/674-7070. A belovedEast Village institution, temptingthe neighborhood withheavenly pastries since 1894.

RestaurantsB & H Dairy 127 2nd Ave between E 7th St and StMark’s Place t212/505-8065.Good veggie choice, this tinyluncheonette serves homemadesoup, challah, and latkes.You canalso create your own juicecombination to stay or go.

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BondSt 6 Bond St, between Broadway andLafayette T212/777-2500. Steeplypriced, very hip multileveled,Japanese restaurant.The sushi isamazing, the miso-glazed sea bassexquisite, and the steak a treat.

Brick Lane Curry House343 E 6th St between 1st and 2nd avest212/979-2900. Hands-down thebest Indian in the East Villagethanks to its expanded selectionof traditional favorites, whichinclude fiery phaal curries.

Chez Es Saada 42 E 1st St between 1st and 2nd stst212/777-5617. The decorevokes visions of Tangiers, whilerose petals line the stairs.Theexpensive menu is a mix ofFrench and Moroccan fare, andthe bar hops with nightly DJspulling in the black-clad crew –it’s worth it to get a drink andan appetizer and take it all in.

Dok Suni 119 1st Ave between E 5th St and StMark’s Place t212/477-9506. Hiparound the edges with greatprices to boot, this is an excellentbet for Korean cuisine.The onlyreal drawback is its metalchopsticks that retain heat andmake for slippery eating utensils.

First 87 1st Ave between E 5th and 6th stst212/674-3823. Sophisticated EastVillage spot serving innovativecombinations of New Americanfare, like tuna steak au poivre anddouble-thick pork chops.Moderately priced – entreesaverage about $18, but there is acheaper “anytime” menu.

Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar 246 E 5th St between 2nd and 3rd avest212/673-0338. De-constructeddishes, such as savory octopusspread and aphrodisiacal oystersplates, and a twelve-seat silver-accented dining room make thiseatery in an old carriage housean intimate and full-on romanticexperience.

Jules 65 St Mark’s Place between 1st and2nd aves t212/477-5560.Comfortable and authenticFrench restaurant, a rarity in theEast Village, serving upmoderately priced bistro fareand a good-value brunch onweekends.

Mama’s Food Shop200 E 3rd St between aves A and Bt212/777-4425. Whoppingportions of tasty and cheap-as-all-get-out “home cooking.”

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Specialties include meatloaf,macaroni and cheese, and a goodselection of roasted vegetables.

Mermaid Inn 96 2nd Ave between E 5th and 6th stst212/674-5870. Seriousseafooder serving simple andfresh dishes in a Maineboathouse atmosphere.There’san excellent raw bar, andspecials change daily dependingon the catch.

Prune 54 E 1st St between 1st and 2nd avest212/677-6221. Cramped, yetadventurous and full ofsurprises, this East VillageMediterranean restaurantdelivers one of the city’s mostexciting dining experiences,serving dishes such assweetbreads wrapped in bacon,seared sea bass with Berberspices, and buttermilk ice creamwith pistachio puff pastry.

SEA Thai 75 2nd Ave between E 4th and 5th stst212/228-5505. This high-energy,subterranean Thai restaurantflaunts fab food at killer prices.Try the SEA caesar salad ($3),patpong green curry withshrimp ($8), or the pad thai($8).

Second Avenue Deli156 2nd Ave between E 9th and 10th stst212/677-0606. An East Villageinstitution, serving up marvelousburgers, hearty pastramisandwiches, matzoh ball soup, andother deli goodies in ebullient,snap-happy style – and not nearlyas cheap as you’d think.

Shabu Tatsu 216 E 10th St between 1st and 2ndaves t212/477-2972. This placeoffers great and moderatelypriced Korean barbecue. Choose

a combination of marinatedmeat or seafood platters, andhave them grilled or boiledright at your table.

Star Foods 64 E 1st St at 1st Ave t212/260-3189. Popular, buzzing spotserving Southern grub servedwith an indie flair. Specialtiesinclude mussels in Lone Starbeer broth ($10), chicken friedsteak ($14), and spare ribs ($16).

Time Café 380 Lafayette St between Great Jonesand E 4th sts t212/533-7000.Happening restaurant with areasonably priced eclecticCalifornia-Southwestern menuand a large outdoor seating areaperfectly positioned for people-watching. Downstairs the Fezlounge offers poetry readings,live jazz, and periodic campy1970s music revues.

Veselka 144 2nd Ave, corner of E 9th Stt212/228-9682. East Villageinstitution that offers finehomemade hot borscht (andcold in summer), latkes,pierogies, and great burgers andfries. Open 24 hours.

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Bars

7B 108 Ave B at E 7th St t212/473-8840.Quintessential East Village hang-out that has often been used as asleazy set in films and com-mercials. It features deliberatelymental bartenders, strong, cheapbooze, and one of the best punkjukeboxes in the Village.

Ace Bar 531 E 5th St between aves A and Bt212/979-8476. Behind thearchitectural glass brick is anoisy and strangely cavernousneighborhood bar, with pooltable, darts, pinball machines,and an amazing collection ofchildhood lunch boxes.Analternative rock jukeboxaugments the East Village feel.

Angel’s Share 8 Stuyvesant St between E 9th St and3rd Ave t212/777-5415. This tinyhaven, where serene Japanese bar-tenders serve the most exquisitemartinis in Manhattan, was oncethe city’s best-kept secret.Then itwas discovered by the masses, butit is well worth the wait.

Burp Castle 41 E 7th St between 2nd and 3rd avest212/982-4756. The bartenderswear monks’ habits, choralmusic is piped in, and you areencouraged to speak in tonesbelow a whisper. Oh, and thereare over 550 different types ofbeer.

d.b.a. 41 1st Ave between E 2nd and 3rd stst212/475-5097. A beer lover’sparadise, d.b.a. has at least sixtybottled beers, fourteen brews ontap, and an authentic handpump. Garden seating isavailable in the summer.

Decibel 240 E 9th St between 2nd and 3rdaves t212/979-2733. A rockingatmosphere (with good tunes)envelops the great, beautifullydecorated underground sake bar.The inevitable wait for awooden table will be worth it,guaranteed.

Holiday Cocktail Lounge 75 St Mark’s Place between 2nd and3rd aves t212/777-9637.Unabashed dive with a mixedbag of customers, from old-world grandfathers to theyounger set, and a bona-fidecharacter tending bar (more orless). Good place for anafternoon beer. Closes early.

KGB 85 E 4th St at 2nd Ave t212/505-3360. A dark bar on the secondfloor, which claims to have beenthe HQ of the UkrainianCommunist party in the 1930sbut is better known now for itsmarquee literary readings.

Lakeside Lounge 162 Ave B between E 10th and 11thsts t212/529-8463. Opened by alocal DJ and a record producer,who have stocked the jukeboxwith old rock, country, andR&B.A down-home hangoutwith live music.

McSorley’s Old Ale House 15 E 7th St between 2nd and 3rd avest212/472-9148. Yes, it’s often fullof local frat boys, but you’ll bedrinking in history here at thischeap, landmark bar that servedits first beer in 1854.Today, itonly pours its own ale.

St Dymphna’s 118 St Marks Place between 1st Aveand Ave A t212/254-6636. Atempting menu and some of thecity’s best Guinness make this

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snug Irish watering-hole afavorite among young EastVillagers.

Standard 158 1st Ave between E 9 and 10th stst212/387-0239. Tiny, narrowlounge that glows green ontothe street at night – obey yourimpulse and venture inside,where you’ll find a few stylishloungers, somewhat priceydrinks, and a DJ spinning laid-back tunes.

Zum Schneider 107-109 Ave C at E 7th St t212/598-1098. A German beer hall (andindoor garden) with a mega-listof brews from the Fatherland,and wursts too.

Clubs and musicvenuesBowery Poetry Club308 Bowery at Bleeker St t212/614-0505,wwww.bowerypoetry.com.Terrifically welcoming lit jointfeaturing Urbana Poetry Slamevery Thursday night at 7pm;$5.This event is dedicated toshowcasing the city’s mostinnovative voices in poetry.

CBGB and OMFUG315 Bowery at Bleecker St t212/982-4052,wwww.cbgb.com. Thislegendary punk/art noisebastion has seen far better days.Run-of-the-mill rock bandscrowd today’s bills, often five orsix acts playing a night startingat 7 or 8pm. $10 average.

Joe’s Pub Public Theater, 425 Lafayette St,between Astor Place and E 4th StT212/539-8770. The word “pub”is a misnomer for this swankynightspot that features a vast

array of musical, cabaret, anddramatic performances. Showsnightly at 7/7.30pm, 9.30pm,and 11pm, and star spottingsabound. Cover ranges from $7to $50 depending on theperformer.

NuYorican Poet’s Café 236 E 3rd St between aves B and Ct212/505–8183,wwww.nuyorican.org. The godfather of all slamvenues often features stars of thepoetry world who pop inunannounced. SlamOpen onWednesdays (except the firstWednesday of every month) andthe Friday Night Slam both cost$5 and are highlyrecommended.

Pyramid Club 101 Ave A between E 6th and 7th stsT212/228-4888. This smallcolorful club has been an EastVillage stand-by for years.Wednesdays feature an open-mike music competition,Thursdays are New Wave, but it’sthe insanely popular 1984 DanceParty on Fridays that is not to bemissed ($8). Cover $5 average.

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Greenwich VillageFor many visitors, Greenwich Village – or simply “theVillage” – is the most-loved neighborhood in New York.Bound by Fourteenth Street to the north, Houston Streetto the south, the Hudson River to the west, andBroadway to the east, it sports refined Federal and GreekRevival townhouses, a busy late-night streetlife, cozyrestaurants, and bars and cafés cluttering every corner –many of the attractions that first brought bohemians herearound the start of World War I. The area proved fertileground for struggling artists and intellectuals, attractedby the area’s cheap rents and growing community offree-thinking residents, and a rebellious fervor soon per-meated the Village. It was here that progressive NewYorkers gave birth to the Beats, unorthodox happenings,and the burgeoning gay rights movement, while theneighborhood’s off-Broadway theaters, cafés, and literaryand folk clubs came to define Village life.

Washington Square ParkMany would argue that there’s nobetter square in the city than this,the natural heart of the Village.Washington Square Park is notexactly elegant, though it doesretain its northern edging ofredbrick row houses – the “solid,honorable dwellings” of HenryJames’s novel, Washington Square –and Stanford White’s imposing1892 Triumphal Arch,

commemorating the centenary ofGeorge Washington’sinauguration. During the 1960s,1970s, and 1980s, the park washome to many impassionedprotests, which have encompassedsuch major hot-button issues asthe Vietnam War, the women’sliberation movement, and AIDS.These days, when the weathergets warm, the park becomes asports field, performance space,

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chess tournament, and social club,feverish with life as streetentertainers strum, skateboardsflip, and the pulsing bass of hip-hop resounds above thewhispered offers of the fewsurviving dope peddlers (morelikely to be undercover cops thandealers).

Bleecker StreetCutting across from the Boweryto Hudson Street, BleeckerStreet, with its touristyconcentration of shops, bars,people, and restaurants, is tosome extent the Main Street ofthe Village. It has all the bestreasons you come to this part of

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town: all-day cafés, late-nightbars, cheap record stores,traditional bakeries and foodshops, and the occasional goodrestaurant or pizzeria.

Church of St Luke’s-in-the-Fields 487 Hudson St. The foundingpastor of this 1820 Federal-styleEpiscopal church was noneother than Clement ClarkeMoore, scholar and author of“Twas the night beforeChristmas.”These days, thechurch is very active in AIDS-outreach work and hosts afestive gay pride evensongcelebration. Be sure to lookbehind the church for St Luke’sGardens, a labyrinthinepatchwork of garden, grass, andbenches open to the public.

Grove and Bedford streetsBedford Street is one of thequietest and most desirable

Village addresses – Edna StVincent Millay, the young poetand playwright, Cary Grant,and John Barrymore all lived atno. 751/2 – said to be thenarrowest house in the city,nine feet wide and topped witha tiny gable. Built in 1799, theclapboard structure next-doorclaims to be the oldest house inthe Village. On Grove Street,look out for Marie’s Crisis atno. 59. Now a gay bar, it wasonce home to Thomas Paine,English by birth but perhapsthe most important and radicalthinker of the AmericanRevolutionary era, and fromwhose Crisis Papers the cafétakes its name.

Sheridan SquareNamed after General Sheridan,cavalry commander in the CivilWar, this hazardous meeting ofseveral busy streets holds apompous-looking statue to hismemory, but, more importantly,is home of the Stonewall Inn gaybar (see p.119). In 1969, a policeraid here precipitated a siegethat lasted the best part of anhour; if not a victory for gayrights, it was the first time thatgay men had stood up to thepolice en masse, and as suchrepresents a turning point in thestruggle for equal rights. Everyyear on the last Sunday in June,it is remembered by Gay PrideMarch, arguably the city’s mostexciting – and certainly its mostcolorful – parade.

Christopher Street The Village’s main gay arteryruns from Sixth Avenue to WestStreet passing many a gay bar,designer boutique, and café.Thelively street’s weekend cruisescene is still strong, although thedomain is by no means asexclusively gay as it once was; all� J E F F E R S O N M A R K E T C O U R T H O U S E

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walks of life and genderpreferences now lay claim toChristopher Street’s charms.

Jefferson Market Courthouseand Patchin PlaceW 10th St and 6th Ave. Known forits unmistakeable clock tower,the nineteenth-centuryJefferson Market Courthouse isan imposing HighVictorian–style edifice,complete with gargoyles, whichfirst served as an indoor marketbut went on to be a firehouse,jail, and finally a women’sdetention center beforeenjoying its current incarnationas a public library.Adjacent to itand opening onto West 10thStreet, Patchin Place is a tinymews constructed in 1848,whose neat rowhouses werehome to the reclusive DjunaBarnes for more than fortyyears. Patchin Place has alsobeen home to e.e. cummings,Marlon Brando, Ezra Pound,and Eugene O’Neill.

Church of the Ascension5th Ave and W 10th St. A small,restored structure originallybuilt in 1841 by RichardUpjohn (architect of Trinity

Church), the Church of theAscension was later redecoratedby Stanford White. Duck insideto see the gracefully toned LaFarge altar painting and somefine stained glass on view.

Forbes Magazine Galleries62 5th Ave at W 12th St; Tues, Wed,Fri, & Sat 10am–4pm free, t212/206-5548. One of the city’s bestsmall museums, the ForbesMagazine Galleries contains atreasure trove of tiny delights,including 500 model boats anda ten-thousand-strong host oftin soldiers from various armies.Also on view are earlyMonopoly boards and plenty ofhistorical documents, includingpast papers of presidents.At thetime of writing the gallery wasnegotiating the sale of itscollection of Fabergé eggs tosupport publication of thefamily magazine, and it’s unclearhow many will remain.

Shops C.O. Bigelow Pharmacy414 6th Ave between W 8th and 9thsts t212/533-2700. Established in1882, this is the oldest

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apothecary in thecountry – and that’sexactly how it looks,with the originalVictorian shop-fittings still in place.Specializes inhomeopathicremedies.

Generation Records210 Thompson St betweenBleecker and W 3rd sts t212/254-1100. The focus here is onhardcore, metal, and punk, withsome indie rock thrown in.New CDs and vinyl are upstairs,while the used records can befound below.

House of Oldies 35 Carmine St between Bleecker Stand 6th Ave t212/243-0500. Justwhat the name says – oldies butgoodies of all kinds.Vinyl only.

Li-Lac 120 Christopher St between Bedfordand Bleecker sts t212/242-7374.Delicious chocolates that havebeen handmade on the premisessince 1923, including freshfudge and hand-moldedLiberties and Empire States.

Murray’s Cheese Shop 257 Bleecker St at Cornelia Stt212/243-3289. The exuberantand entertaining staff make anyvisit to this cheese-lovers’ mecca

a treat. Sample the wares or pickup a pungent sandwich.

Oscar Wilde MemorialBookshop 15 Christopher St between Gay St andWaverly Place t212/255-8097.Well-situated gay and lesbianbookstore – probably the first inthe city – with extensive rarebook collection, signed and firsteditions, and framed signedletters from authors, includingEdward Albee, Gertrude Stein,and Tennessee Williams.

Three Lives & Co 154 W 10th St between Waverly Placeand W 4th St t212/741-2069.Excellent literary bookstore thathas an especially good selectionof books by and for women, aswell as general titles.

Village Chess Shop 230 Thompson St between W 3rd andBleecker sts t212/475-8130. Everykind of chess set for every kind

of pocket.Usually packedwith peopleplaying. Opendaily noon–midnight.

Village Comics 214 Sullivan Stbetween W 3rd andBleecker stst212/777-2770.Old and new

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books, limited editions, tradingcards, and action figures fill thestore, occasionally graced bycelebrity appearances.

CafésCafé dell’Artista 46 Greenwich Ave between 6th and7th aves t212/645-4431. Aroundsince forever, this quiet, second-floor café offers comfy chairs,all manner of drinks anddesserts, and in the winter, afireplace to warm away thechill.

Doma 17 Perry St at 7th Ave t212/929-4339. A corner window, goodbrews, and linger-all-day vibemake this a new neighborhoodfavorite; it’s the anti-Starbucks.

Le Figaro184 Bleecker St at MacDougal Stt212/677-1100. Made famous bythe Beat writers in the 1950s, LeFigaro is always throngedthroughout the day; it’s stillworth the price of a cappuccinoto people-watch.

Magnolia Bakery 401 Bleeker St at W 11th Stt212/462-2572. You may have toelbow a model for a cupcake atthis trendy grandma’s kitchen-style bakery, but it’s worth thefight. Even better, try a slice ofthe hummingbird cake.

Restaurants Babbo 110 Waverly Place between MacDougalSt and 6th Ave t212/777-0303. Forsome of the best pasta in thecity, this Mario Batali mecca forItalian food-lovers is a must.Trythe mint love letters or goose

liver ravioli – they’re worth thepinch on your wallet.

Blue Hill 75 Washington Place between 6th Aveand Washington Square Parkt212/539-1776. Tucked into abrownstone just steps from thepark, this “adult” restaurant hasearned countless accolades inrecent years for its superbseasonal menu of Americandishes served with flair.

Café de Bruxelles118 Greenwich Ave at W 13th Stt212/206-1830. Taste the city’smost delicious frites (served withhomemade mayo) and musselsat this Belgian family-runrestaurant. Its zinc bar, the oldestaround, is ideal for its niceselection of Belgian beers.

Chez Brigitte 77 Greenwich Ave between Bank andW 11th sts t212/929-6736. Only adozen people fit in this tinyrestaurant, which serves stews,all-day roast meat dinners forunder $10, and other bargainsfrom a simple menu.

Corner Bistro 331 W 4th St at Jane St t212/242-9502. This down-home tavernserves some of the best burgers

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and fries in town.An excellentplace to unwind and refuel in afriendly neighborhoodatmosphere, it’s also alongstanding literary haunt; canget quite crowded.

Florent 69 Gansevoort St, between Washingtonand Greenwich sts T212/989-5779.A fashionable eatery in theheart of the MeatpackingDistrict, Florent serves greatmoderate-to-pricey Frenchbistro fare. Evelyn’s goat cheesesalad or the mussels are alwaysgood bets.

Grange Hall 50 Commerce St at Barrow Stt212/924-5246. Hiding on adead-end picturesque street, thispopular feel-good restaurantfeatures healthful and toothsomedishes at reasonable prices. Besure to make a reservation.

Gotham Bar & Grill12 E 12th St, between 5th Ave andUniversity Place t212/620-4020.One of the city’s bestrestaurants, the Gotham featuresmarvelous American fare; atvery least, it’s worth a drink atthe bar to see the city’sbeautiful people drift in.

Home 20 Cornelia St between Bleecker andW 4th sts t212/243-9579. One ofthose rare restaurants thatmanages to pull off quaint andcozy with flair.The creative andreasonably priced Americanfood is always fresh andwonderful, perhaps a better dealat lunch than dinner.Try thespice-crusted pork chops ($17).

John’s Pizzeria 278 Bleecker St between 6th and 7thaves t212/243-1680. No slices, notakeaways at this full-service

restaurant that serves some ofthe city’s best and most popularpizza, with a crust that is thinand coal-charred.

Mary’s Fish Camp64 Charles St at W 4th St t646/486-2185. Lobster rolls, bouillabaisse,and seasonal veggies adorn themenu at this intimate spot,where you can almost smell thesalt air. Go early, as thereservation line lasts into thenight.

Otto Enoteca and Pizzeria 1 5th Ave at Washington Square Nt212/995-9559. One of thenewest (and cheapest) additionsto Italian chef Mario Batali’srestaurant empire is a popularpizza and antipasti joint with asuperb wine list and a beautifulcrowd.The acoustics aren’t great,but the atmosphere is festive andyou can’t beat the lardo (lard)and vongole (clam) pizza.

Pearl Oyster Bar 18 Cornelia St between Bleecker and W4th sts t212/691-8211. You mayhave to fight for a table here atthis recently expanded localfavorite, but it’s worth it for thethoughtfully executed seafooddishes – and you won’t “shell”out as much as you might expect.

The Pink Teacup 42 Grove St between Bleecker andBedford sts t212/807-6755.Longstanding Southern soulfood institution in the heart ofthe Village, with goodsmothered pork chops,cornbread, and the like. Brunchtoo, but no credit cards.

Tortilla Flats 767 Washington St at W 12th StT212/243-1053. Cheap WestVillage Mexican dive with greatmargaritas, a loud sound system,

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and plenty of kitsch. Be careful,gets really crowded.

Wallse 344 W 11th St at Washington Stt212/352-2300. NewfangledAustrian fare takes center stagehere.The uniquely crafted menufeatures light-as-air schnitzel,frothy reisling sauces, and strudelsgood enough to make an Austriangrandma sing with pride.Thewine list tempts with some hard-to-find Austrian vintages.

Bars Blind Tiger Ale House 518 Hudson St at W 10th Stt212/675-3848. You could easilyleave here with things looking abit foggy after you choose fromthe 24 beers on tap and eclecticbottled selection. Come onSunday between 1pm and 6pmfor the free brunch of bagelsand cream cheese withcomplimentary newspapers.

Chumley’s 86 Bedford St between Grove andBarrow sts t212/675-4449. It’s noteasy to find this formerspeakeasy, owing to itsunmarked entrance, but it’sworth the effort – offering up agood choice of beers and food,both reasonably priced.

Cubby Hole 281 W 12th St at W 4th St t212/243-9041. This pocket-size lesbianbar is warm and welcoming,with a busy festive atmosphere,loads of decorations that danglefrom the ceiling, andunpretentious clientele.

Duplex 61 Christopher St at 7th Ave St212/255-5438. A neighborhoodinstitution, this entertaining

piano bar/cabaret elevates gaybar culture to a new level.A funplace for anyone, gay or straight,to stop for a tipple.

The Monster 80 Grove St between Waverly Placeand W 4th St t212/924-3557.Large, campy bar with dragcabaret, piano, and downstairsdance floor.Very popular,especially with tourists, yet has astrong neighborhood feel.

Rhône 63 Gansevoort St between Washingtonand Greenwich sts t212/367-8440.As the name implies, this large,well-designed, sexy loungeserves red and white wines fromthe Rhone Valley. It’s a little toopopular for its own good,though, as the place can get verycrowded on weekend nights.

Stonewall Inn53 Christopher St between 7th Ave andWaverly Place t212/463-0950.Worth ducking in for a drinkjust for its history alone.

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White Horse Tavern 567 Hudson St at W 11th Stt212/243-9260. GreenwichVillage institution where DylanThomas supped his last beforebeing carted off to hospital withalcohol poisoning.The beer andfood are cheap and palatablehere, and outside seating isavailable in the summer.

Clubs and musicvenues

55 Bar 55 Christopher St between 6th and 7thaves; t212/929-9883. Really,really special underground jazzbar; the best of the old guard.No credit cards.

Arthur’s Tavern57 Grove St between Bleecker St and7th Ave t212/675-6879,wwww.arthurstavernnyc.com. Thislow-key, fifty-year-old clubhoused in a landmark buildingfeatures the Grove St Stompers,who’ve been playing everyMonday for the past forty years.Jazz from 7pm to 9.30pm, blues

and funk from 10pm to3.30am. No cover; one-drinkminimum.

The Blue Note131 W 3rd St T212 475 8592wwww.bluenote.net. The city’smost famous jazz club andattracting the most famousnames. High prices though.

Groove 125 MacDougal St at W 3rd Stt212/254-9393,wwww.clubgroove.com. Thishopping joint features rhythm &blues and soul music; it’s one ofthe best bargains around. Happyhour 6–9pm. Music starts at9.30pm. No cover.

S.O.B.’s 204 Varick St at W Houston Stt212/243-4940. This livelyclub/restaurant, with regularCaribbean, salsa, and worldmusic acts, puts on twoperformances a night.Admission$10–20 for standing room and$10–15 minimum cover attables. No cover for those withdinner reservations. Check outSamba Saturday, the venue’shottest night.

Village Underground 130 W 3rd St between Macdougal Stand 6th Ave t212/777-7745,wwww.thevillageunderground.com.This wee place is one of the mostintimate and innovative spacesaround, where you might catchanyone from Guided By Voices toRL Burnside; daily 9pm–4am.

Village Vanguard178 7th Ave S between W 11th andPerry sts; t212/255-4037,wwww.villagevanguard.com. Thisjazz landmark still lays on aregular diet of big names. Coveris $15–20, with a $10 drinkminimum. Cash only.

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Chelsea and theGarment DistrictA grid of tenements, rowhouses, and warehouses westof Sixth Avenue between West 14th and 30th streets,Chelsea came to life with the arrival in the lateSeventies and early Eighties of a large gay community.New York’s peripatetic art scene has also influenced theneighborhood’s transformation with an influx of gal-leries complemented by an explosion in superstoreretail, especially along Sixth Avenue. Muscling in between Sixth and Ninth avenues from West30th to West 42nd streets, the Garment District offerslittle of interest to the casual tourist. One of the fewbenefits of walking through this part of town, however,is to take advantage of the designer’s sample sales,where floor samples and models’ used cast-offs aresold to the public at cheap prices.

Eighth AvenueIf Chelsea has a main drag it’sEighth Avenue, a stretch of retailenergy to rival thefast-moving traffic inthe street.A spate ofbars, restaurants,health food stores,gyms, and clothesshops lend theboulevard a definitevibrancy, particularlyin the evening.

GeneralTheologicalSeminary175 9th Ave at W 21stSt. Founded in 1817,this is a Chelseasecret, a harmoniousassembly of ivy-cladGothicismssurrounding a restivegreen that feels likepart of a collegecampus.Though thebuildings still house

a working Episcopalianseminary – the oldest in the US– it’s possible to explore the

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park on weekdays and Saturdayat lunchtime. If you’re interestedin theological history, check outtheir collection of Latin Bibles –one of the largest in the world.

London Terrace Apartments405 and 465 W 23rd St between 9thand 10th aves. Surrounding aprivate garden, these two rowsof 1930s apartment buildingsgot their name because themanagement made the originaldoormen wear London bobbyuniforms. However, they werelater nicknamed “The FashionProjects” for their retinue of

big-time designer, photographer,and model residents (includingIsaac Mizrahi,Annie Leibovitz,and Deborah Harry) and fortheir proximity to Chelsea’s realhousing projects to the southand east.

The Chelsea Hotel222 W 23rd St between 7th and 8thaves. Since being built in 1882,the Chelsea Hotel has seenseveral incarnations and beenundisputed home to the city’sharder-up literati. Mark Twainand Tennessee Williams livedhere, and Brendan Behan and

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Dylan Thomas staggered in andout during their New Yorkvisits. In 1951 Jack Kerouac,armed with a specially adaptedtypewriter (and a lot ofBenzedrine), typed the firstdraft of On the Road nonstoponto a 120-foot roll of paper.Bob Dylan wrote songs in andabout the hotel, and SidVicious stabbed NancySpungen to death in 1978 intheir suite, a few monthsbefore his own life ended withan overdose of heroin.Today,three-quarters of the hotel isoccupied by permanentresidents, but the lobby, with itsfamous phallic “Chelsea Dog”and work by Larry Rivers, isworth a gander.

Greeley and Herald squaresSixth Avenue collides withBroadway at West 34th Street orGreeley and Herald squares,overblown names for two grimytriangles people cross on theirway to Macy’s department store(see p.125). Greeley Squarecelebrates Horace Greeley,founder of the Tribunenewspaper, who was known forhis rallying call to the youth ofthe nineteenth century to

explore the continent (“GoWest, young man!”); he alsosupported the rights of womenand trade unions, whiledenouncing slavery and capitalpunishment.

Herald Square faces GreeleySquare in a headlong stonereplay of the battles between theHerald newspaper and itsarchrival, Greeley’s Tribune.

Penn Station and MadisonSquare Garden Between W 31st and 33rd sts and7th and 8th aves.ThePennsylvania Station (simplycalled “Penn” Station) andMadison Square Gardencomplex, housing Knicksbasketball and Rangers hockeygames, is probably the mostprominent landmark in theGarment District.Thecombined box and drumstructure is perched atop PennStation, which swallows up700,000 commuters into itstrain station belly every day.There’s nothing memorableabout the railway station, butthe original incarnation,demolished in 1963, is nowhailed as a lost masterpiece.You can go back in time at the

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new entryway to the LongIsland Railroad ticket area onWest 34th Street at SeventhAvenue: one of the old station’sfour-faced timepieces hangsfrom the tall steel-framed glassstructure, itself reminiscent ofthe original building.

The General Post Office421 8th Ave at W 33rd St.The 1913General Post Office is a relicfrom an era when municipalpride was all about makingstatements – though to say thatthe Post Office is monumentalin the grandest manner stillseems to underplay it.The oldjoke is that it had to be this bigto fit in the sonorous inscriptionabove the columns (“Neithersnow nor rain nor heat norgloom of night stays thesecouriers from the swiftcompletion of their appointedrounds”).The post office willonly be open for a few moreyears: a new Penn Station forAmtrak is being built here, set

to open in 2008 as MoynihanStation, named after recentlydeceased US Senator DanielPatrick Moynihan from NewYork.

GalleriesBarbara Gladstone Gallery 515 W 24th St between 10th and11th aves t212/206-9300. Aformer SoHo veteran, thisdealer shows video andinstallation artists in hermassive showspace.

Brent Sikkema 530 W 22nd St between 10th and 11thaves t212/929-2262.Unpredictable taste and thisdealer’s strong vision fuel salesof vintage photography andcontemporary art, includingsome unusual works on paper.

Gagosian Gallery555 W 24th St between 10th and 11thaves t212/741-1111. This artworld powerbroker is notablefor showing such heavyweightsas Richard Serra and DamienHirst.

Gorney Bravin + Lee534 W 26th St between 10th and 11thaves t212/352-8372. Thisexciting group of dealers makesit their mission to show and sellcutting-edge contemporaryworks.

Max Protetch Gallery 511 W 22nd St between 10th and 11thaves t212/633-6999. One of theolder and more peripateticgalleries in town – you neverknow what you might see here.

Pat Hearn Gallery530 W 22nd St between 10th and 11thaves t212/727-7366. This gallery,

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founded by an art worldpioneer, continues to morphwith the times in its displays ofconceptual works.

ShopsChelsea Market 75 9th Ave between W 15th and 16thsts. A wonderful array of foodshops line this former Nabiscofactory warehouse’s groundfloor; go for pad Thai, panini,chewy breads, sinful brownies,kitchenware, or simply tobrowse this one-of-a-kind urbanmarketplace.

Dave’s Army & Navy Store 581 6th Ave at W 17th St t212/989-6444. The best place to buyjeans in Manhattan. Good pricesand a great selection areaugmented by helpful assistantsand the absence of blaringmusic.

Loehmann’s 101 7th Ave between W 16th and 17thsts t212/352-0856. New York’sbest-known department storefor designer clothes atknockdown prices. No refundsand no exchanges.

Macy’s Broadway at W 34th St at HeraldSquare t212/695-4400. One ofthe world’s largest departmentstores, Macy’s embraces twobuildings, two million squarefeet of floor space, and tenfloors (housing, unfortunately,fairly mediocre wares exceptfor the excellent Cellarhousewares departmentdownstairs). Nonetheless,visiting can be part of the NewYork experience, especially ifyou’re from abroad.

Restaurants

Bottino 246 10th Ave between W 24th and25th sts t212/206-6766. One ofChelsea’s most popularrestaurants, Bottino attracts thein-crowd looking for somehonest Italian food served in avery downtown atmosphere.The homemade leek tortellini(winter months only) is trulytantalizing, but visit the ATMbefore you go.

Bright Food Shop216-218 8th Ave at W 21st Stt212/243-4433. Fusion of Asianand Mexican food makes thisChelsea eatery an eye-opener.Always crowded, and whileprices are relatively cheap forthe neighborhood, they’recertainly not a steal.

Empire Diner 210 10th Ave at W 22nd St t212/243-2736. Spangled in silver, thisall-night diner, a neighborhoodlandmark, charms with its gayvibe and its excellent burgersand grilled cheese sandwiches.

F&B 269 W 23rd St between 7th and 8thaves t646/486-4441. TerrificEuropean-style street food(namely hot dogs) at digestableprices. Other items includesalmon dogs, bratwursts, andmouth-watering Swedishmeatballs; there’s also a selectionof vegetarian offerings.

La Luncheonette 130 10th Ave at W 18th St t212/675-0342. Real-deal French bistro inan old Polish bar; itsunpretentious atmosphere onlylends to its comfortable (anddelicious) appeal.

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Mare 198 8th Ave at W 20th St t212/675-7522. This fish and seafoodrestaurant is a welcome ifslightly pricey fixture toChelsea’s burgeoning restaurantghetto, with good fresh fishdishes and a raw bar.Try thecrabcakes.

Maroon’s 244 W 16th St between 7th and 8thaves t212/206-8640. SuccessfulCaribbean and Southern foodin a hot and hopping basementspace, with some of the mostpotent cocktails for blocks.

The Old Homestead56 9th Ave between W 14th and 15thsts t212/242-9040. Steak.Period. But really gorgeoussteak, served in an almostcomically old-fashioned walnutdining room by waiters inblack vests. Huge portions, butexpensive.

Red Cat 227 10th Ave between W 23rd and24th sts t212/242-1122. Superbservice, a fine American-Mediterranean kitchen, and acozy atmosphere all make for amemorable dining experience.Book early, it’s getting morepopular by the day.

Rocking Horse 182 8th Ave between W 19th and 20thsts t212/463-9511. Thereasonably priced Mexicancuisine, highlighted by suchdishes as seared salmonNapoleon, is highly inventive,while the mojitos andmargaritas pack a punch.

BarsHalf King 505 W 23rd St between 10th and 11thaves t212/462-4300. This popularIrish pub is owned by a smallgroup of writer/artists andfeatures good food and regularliterary events.They’ve beenknown to book some heavy-hitters.

Maritime Hotel Bar363 W 16th St at 9th Ave t212/242-4300. Savor a martini in thisswanky, spacious lounge withelegant French doors in one ofthe city’s latest (and mostsuccessful) architecturalconversions.

Open 559 W 22nd St at 11th Ave t212/243-1851. This red-hued modlounge throws open its doors ingood weather for beautifulpeople and sunset drinks.

Passerby 436 W 15th St between 9th and 10thaves t212/206-7321. Tiny, funkyspace with a lighted floor that

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looks as if it’s straight fromSaturday Night Fever. Perenniallyfull of black-clad lovelies, weirdmirrors, and art world gossip.

Serena 222 W 23rd St between 7th and 8thaves t212/255-4646. This retrobasement bar is a fairly newaddition to the Chelsea Hotel,bringing in a new, younger, andinfinitely more self-assuredbrand of local. Be prepared topay for the legend, though, andbeware the bouncers and thesomewhat pricey drinks.

Suite 16 127 8th Ave at W 16th St t212/627-1680. It’s all A-list names at thisexclusive new hotspot. If youcan get in, you’ll be partyingwith the Hilton sisters.

Clubs and musicvenuesBungalow 8 515 W 27th St between 10th and 11thaves t212/629-3333. An eliteclub frequented by celebs whosename was inspired by thebungalows at Hollywood’sBeverly Hills Hotel. Cover$25–50.

Frying Pan Pier 63, Chelsea Piers at W 23rd Stt212/989-6363. This oldlightship is one of the coolestclub venues in the city. Greatviews, consistently rockin’

parties, and a relaxed doorpolicy all lend themselves to adamn fine time; $12.

g 225 W 19th St between 7th and 8thaves t212/929-1085. Here, atChelsea’s “friendliest” gaylounge, it’s all about cosmos andpreening.

Joyce 175 8th Ave at W 19th St t212/242-0800,wwww.joyce.org. One of thebest places in the city to seemodern dance. Check out theaccomplished Feld Ballet inresidence here as well as a hostof other touring companies,which keep this Art Deco-styletheater (complete with garishpink and purple neon signs) inbrisk business.

Roxy 515 W 18th St between 10th and 11thaves t212/645-5156. For a trueblast from the 1970s past, go forWednesday night roller-skatingto disco classics. On other nightsthis stalwart dance club stillpacks them in.A sheer NewYork institution.

Suede 161 W 23rd St between 5th and 6thaves t212/633-6113. This cool,neutral-toned nightclub is amagnet for hipsters and celebssuch as Britney Spears. Its smalldance floor and deliciouspeople-watching make for agood time. Cover $20.

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Union Square,Gramercy Park, andMurray Hill Sixth Avenue forms a dividing line between Chelsea tothe west and the area that comprises Union Square andGramercy Park. For a glimpse of well-preserved nine-teenth century New York, it’s well worth a jaunt aroundthe more genteel parts of these two neighborhoods,before heading up toward Murray Hill, a rather anony-mous district of canopy-fronted apartment buildings(bound by East 34th and 40th streets between Third andMadison avenues), best known for the tallest of NewYork’s skyscrapers, the Empire State Building.

Union SquareFounded as a park in 1813,Union Square became the siteof many political protests andworkers’ rallies between theCivil War and the twentiethcentury. Later, the area evolvedinto an elegant theater andshopping district.Today, thesquare invites you to stroll itspaths, feed the squirrels, andgaze at its array of statuary – awelcome respite from rushedpedestrians on 14th Street, notleast because of its Farmers’Market, held Monday,Wednesday, Friday, and Saturdayfrom 7am to 6pm.

Irving Place Although he never actuallylived along the street, thisseven-block strip, was namedfor Washington Irving, the earlynineteenth-century Americanwriter whose creepy tale of theHeadless Horseman, The Legendof Sleepy Hollow, has itself nowpassed into literary andcelluloid legend.A bust of theauthor, the first Americanwriter to earn a living from hiscraft, stands in front of theturn-of-the-nineteenth-centuryWashington Irving HighSchool.

TheodoreRoosevelt’s birth-place 28 E 20th St between ParkAve S and Broadway;Tues–Sat 9am–5pm; $3,under 16 free; t212/260-1616. TheodoreRoosevelt’s birthplacewas restored in 1923to the way it wouldhave been whenRoosevelt was born� G R A M E R C Y P A R K

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Enoteca I TrulliGramercy TavernL’AcajouLes HallesMesa GrillNo IdeaOld Town Bar & Restaurant

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there in 1858.This rathersomber mansion contains manyoriginal furnishings, some ofTeddy’s hunting trophies, and asmall gallery documenting thepresident’s life, viewable on anobligatory guided tour.

Gramercy ParkA former “little crooked swamp”between East 21st and East 22ndstreets, Gramercy Park is one ofthe city’s prettiest squares.The

city’s last private park, it isaccessible only to those rich orfortunate enough to live here.Famous past key holders haveincluded Mark Twain, JuliaRoberts, and Winona Ryder –never mind all those Kennedysand Roosevelts. Inside the gatesstands a statue of the actorEdwin Booth (brother ofLincoln’s assassin, John WilkesBooth).The private PlayersClub, at 15 Gramercy Park, was

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founded by Booth and sits nextdoor to the prestigious NationalArts Club at no. 16.

The Flatiron BuildingAt Broadway, 5th Ave and 23rd St. Seton a triangular or iron-shapedplot of land, the lofty, elegant1902 Flatiron Building is one ofthe city’s most famous buildings.Its uncommonly thin, taperedstructure creates unusual windcurrents at ground level, andyears ago policemen wereposted to prevent men gatheringto watch the wind raise theskirts of women passing on 23rdStreet.The cry they gave towarn off voyeurs – “23 Skidoo!”– has passed into the language.It’s hard to believe that this wasone of the city’s first trueskyscrapers, whose full twentystories dwarfed the otherstructures around.

Madison SquarePerhaps because of the statelinessof its buildings and the park-space in the middle, MadisonSquare, located between East23rd and 26th streets andMadison Avenue and Broadway,possesses a grandiosity thatUnion Square has long sincelost. Next to the 1902 Art DecoMetropolitan Life Company’sbuilding and clock tower on theeastern side, the Corinthian-columned marble facade of the

Appellate Division of the NewYork State Supreme Court isresolutely righteous with itsstatues of Justice,Wisdom, andPeace.The grand structurebehind that, the 1928 New YorkLife Building proper, was thework of Cass Gilbert, creator ofthe Woolworth Building (seep.80) downtown.

Church of the Transfiguration 1 E 29th St. Made from brownbrick and topped with copperroofs, this dinky rusticatedEpiscopalian church was once astation in the UndergroundRailroad, and has long been atraditional place of worship forshowbiz people and other suchoutcasts.The church was alsoheadquarters to the oldest boyschoir in the city, formed in 1881.The chapel itself is an intimatewee building set in a gloriouslyleafy garden. Its interior isfurnished throughout in warmwood, soft candlelight, and thefigures of famous actorsmemorialized in the stained glass.

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The Empire State Building At 5th Ave and 34th St; daily9.30am–midnight, last trip 11.15pm$11, $6 for under age 11, ages 12–17and seniors $10, under 5 free, combinedtickets for New York Skyride and theObservatory $17 t212/736-3100,wwww.esbnyc.com. With thedestruction of the World TradeCenter, the 1931 Empire StateBuilding, easily the city’s mostpotent and evocative symbol, isonce again the city’s tallestskyscraper. It stands at 102 storiesand 1454 feet – toe to TV mast –but its height is deceptive, risingin stately tiers with steadypanache. Indeed, standing onFifth Avenue below, it’s quite easyto walk right by without evenrealizing that it’s there.Theelevators take you to the 86thFloor Observatory, summit of thebuilding before the radio and TVmast was added.The views fromthe outside walkways here are asstunning as you’d expect; on aclear day visibility is up to eightymiles.The building’s managementhas decided to close the 102nd-floor Observatory because thecrowds make the smallish spaceunmanageable. Be sure to bring aphoto ID, as security is very tight.

The Morgan Library29 E 36th St t212/685-0610,wwww.morganlibrary.org.Unfortunately closed until 2006for renovations, this mock buttastefully simple Roman villa iscommonly mistaken for thehouse of the financier J.P.Morgan. However, the old manonly came here to luxuriateamong the art treasures he hadbought on trips to Europe.Thepriceless collection of nearly10,000 drawings and prints,including works by Da Vinci,Degas, and Dürer, are augmentedby the literary manuscripts ofDickens, Jane Austen, and

Thoreau, as well as a copy of the1455 Gutenberg Bible.

ShopsABC Carpet and Home 888 Broadway at E 19th St t212/473-3000. Six floors of antiques andcountry furniture, knick-knacks,linens, and, of course, carpets.The grandiose, museum-likesetup is half the fun.

The Complete Traveler 199 Madison Ave at E 35th Stt212/685-9007. Manhattan’spremier travel bookshop,excellently stocked, new andsecondhand – including a hugecollection of Baedekers.

Kalustyan’s 123 Lexington Ave between E 28th and29th sts t212/685-3451. Thisheavenly scented store has beenselling Indian food products,spices, and hard-to-findingredients since 1944.Today itsselection covers foreign foodsfrom around the globe.

Lord & Taylor 424 5th Ave at 39th St; t212/391-3344. The most venerable of theNew York department stores, inbusiness since 1826 and to someextent the most pleasant, with amore traditional feel thanMacy’s or Bloomingdale’s.

Paragon Sporting Goods 867 Broadway at E 18th St t212/255-8036. The ultimate Manhattansporting goods store, still family-owned, and with three levels ofgeneral merchandise.

Print Icon 7 W 18th St between 5th and 6th avest212/255-4489. The printingdistrict’s most respected shop forquality paper, stationery, and

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print work. Its letterpress churnsout some of the city’s best-looking business cards.

RestaurantsArtisanal 2 Park Ave at E 32nd St t212/725-8585. Cheese is the name of thegame here – there’s a cave with700 varieties. If you don’t wantthe full pungent experience, graba small table at the bar and try thegougere (gruyere puffs) with one ofthe excellent wines on offer.

Bread Bar at Tabla11 Madison Ave at 25th St t212/889-0667. Beneath an elegant mosaicceiling, this little sister to evenpricier Tabla (upstairs) servesdelicious Indian tapas andcocktails perfumed withsoutheast Asian spices. Samplethe lamb tandoori.

City Bakery 3 W 18th St between 5th and 6thaves t212/366-1414. A smartstop for a satisfying lunch or asweet-tooth craving.The vastarray of pastries is head-and-shoulders above most in thecity. Try the tortilla pie,famous pretzel croissant, andbeer hot chocolate withhomemade marshmallows.

City Crab 235 Park Ave S at E 19th Stt212/529-3800. A large and verypopular joint that prides itselfon a large selection of fresh EastCoast oysters and clams, whichcan be had in mixed samplerplates. Overall, a hearty place toconsume lots of bivalves andwash ‘em down with pints ofale. Roughly $20–30 per personfor a full dinner.

Coffee Shop 29 Union Square W at E 16th Stt212/243-7969. A unique coffeeshop that serves salads, burgers,and grilled meats with a Braziliantwist. Open 24 hours, this cornereatery sees a varied yet usuallyhip and modish crowd.While thefood has its highlights, thecaipirinhas will get you higher.

Eisenberg’s Sandwich Shop 174 5th Ave between E 22nd and 23rdsts t212/675-5096. A colorfulluncheonette, this slice of NY lifeserves great tuna sandwiches,matzoh ball soup, and old-fashioned fountain sodas.

Enoteca I Trulli 124 E 27th St between Lexington andPark aves t212/481-7372. Justadjacent to a lovely Italianrestaurant of the same name, thiswine bar serves a jaw-droppingselection from Italy.Ask forbread with ricotta spread or aplate of Italian cheeses toaccompany your tipple.

Gramercy Tavern 42 E 20th St between Broadway andPark Ave S t212/477-0777. One ofNYC’s best restaurants; its Neo-colonial decor, exquisite NewAmerican cuisine, and perfectservice make for a memorablemeal.The seasonal taster’s menusare well worth the steep prices,but you can also drop in for a

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drink or more casual meal inthe lively front room.

L’Acajou 53 W 19th St between 5th and 6th avest212/645-1706. This small, homelybistro has attracted an eclecticclientele for years.The bar getssmoky and crowded at happyhour and the tables are often fullfor lunch and dinner. Specialsinclude omelets and French friesand daily dinner tarts.

Les Halles 411 Park Ave S between E 28th and29th sts t212/679-4111. Noisy,bustling, would-be Left Bankbistro with carcasses dangling ina butcher’s shop in the front.Serves rabbit, steak frites, andother staples, with entreesranging $15–25.

Mesa Grill 102 5th Ave between W 15th and W16th sts t212/807-7400. One oflower Manhattan’s morefashionable eateries, servingeclectic Southwestern grill fare atrelatively high prices. During theweek it’s full of publishing andadvertising types doing lunch –at dinner things liven up a bit.

Republic 37 Union Square W between E 16thand 17th sts t212/627-7172. Spareyet comfortable decor, fastservice, low prices, and goodnoodle dishes make this apopular pan-Asian spot.Thetasty appetizers are the best part.

Rolf’s 281 3rd Ave at E 22nd St t212/473-8718. A nice, dark,chintz-decorated Old Worldfeeling dominates this East Sideinstitution. Schnitzel andsauerbraten are always good butsomehow taste better at thegenerous bar buffet,

commencing around 5pm allthrough the week.

Uncle Mo’s Burrito & TacoShop 14 W 19th St between 5th and 6thaves t212/727-9400. Authenticand wallet-friendly Mexicanfare; its casual, south-of-the-border, tortilla-wrapped goods(available for take-out) some sayare the city’s best.

Union Square Café 21 E 16th St between 5th Ave andUnion Square W t212/243-4020.Choice California-style diningwith a classy but comfortabledowntown atmosphere. No onedoes salmon like they do. Not atall cheap – prices average $100for two – but the creative menuand great people-watching are areal treat.

BarsBelmont Lounge 117 E 15th St between Park Ave S andIrving Place t212/533-0009.Oversized couches, darkcavernous rooms and anoutdoor garden reel in acontinuous stream of twenty-something singletons.The strongdrinks help things, too.

No Idea 30 E 20th St between Broadway andPark Ave S t212/777-0100. Thisbizarre palace of inebriation hassomething for most barflies –from $5 pints of mixed drinks,to a pool room,TV sports, andeven a drink-for-free-if-your-name’s-on-the-wall night.

Old Town Bar & Restaurant 45 E 18th St between Broadway andPark Ave S t212/529-6732. Thisatmospheric and spacious bar ispopular with publishing types,

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models, and photographers. Itfeatures great burgers, too.

Pete’s Tavern 129 E 18th St at Irving Placet212/473-7676. Formerspeakeasy that claims to be theoldest bar in New York –opened in 1864 – though thesedays it inevitably trades on itshistory, which included suchillustrious patrons as John F.Kennedy Jr and O. Henry, whoallegedly wrote The Gift of theMagi in his regular booth here.

Revival 129 E 15th St between Irving Placeand 3rd Ave t212/253-8061. Walkdown the stairs and into thisfriendly narrow bar with greatoutdoor seating in its backyard.Popular with fans waiting forshows at Irving Plaza around theblock.

Underbar W Union Square Hotel, 201 Park Ave Sbetween E 17th and 18th stst212/358-1560. A fashionablemeat-market for beautiful peopleonly. Red velvet ropes keep outthe riff-raff and ill-dressed.

Clubs and musicvenues

Avalon37 W 20th St at 6th Ave t212/807-7780. Formerly the infamousLimelight, this is one of the mostsplendid (and newest) partyspaces in New York: a churchdesigned by Trinity Church-builder Richard Upjohn. $25.

Blue Smoke: Jazz Standard116 E 27th St between Park andLexington aves t212/576-2232,wwww.jazzstandard.com. This

gourmet club books all flavorsof jazz and serves sublime BBQ,the best in-club grub in town.Sets are at 7.30pm and 9.30pmduring the week, with an extraset at 11.30pm on weekends.Covers range from $15-30 withno minimum.

Centro-Fly 45 W 21st St between 5th and 6thaves t212/627-7770,wwww.centro-fly.com. This newly renovatedNYC club recently reduced itscover to $10-15, shed itsattitude, and is now even more“lady friendly.”

Gotham Comedy Club 34 W 22nd St between 5th and 6thaves t212/367-9000,wwww.gothamcomedyclub.com. Aswanky and spacious comedyvenue, highly respected by localNew Yorkers, even persnicketymedia types. Cover $10Sun–Thurs, $16 Fri and Sat.Two-drink minimum.

Irving Plaza 17 Irving Place between E 15th and 16thsts t212/777-6800. Once home tooff-Broadway musicals, this venuenow hosts an impressive array ofrock, electronic music, andtechno acts – a good place to seepopular bands in a manageablesetting. $15-30.

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Times Square and theTheater DistrictThe towering signs and flashing lights of Times Square,the gnarly trafficked area just north of 42nd Street whereSixth and Seventh avenues instersect with Broadway,bring a whole new meaning to the term “sensory over-load.” Thousands of visitors pass through daily, some tosee the spot of the famous New Year’s Eve countdowncelebration and gaze upon the formerly seedy yet nowgarishly ostentatious display of media and commercial-ism. The adjoining Theater District and its million-dollarBroadway productions still draw crowds, while Hell’sKitchen to the immediate west offers innumerablerestaurants as well as a gritty nightlife.

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Sixth AvenueSixth Avenue is properly namedAvenue of the Americas, thoughno New Yorker calls it this; theonly manifestations of the tagare lamppost flags of Centraland South American countries.In its day, the Sixth Avenueelevated train marked the borderbetween respectability to theeast and dodgier areas to thewest, and in a way it’s still adividing line separating theglamorous strips of Fifth,Madison, and Park avenues fromthe brasher western districts ofMidtown. By the time SixthAvenue reaches midtownManhattan, it has become ashowcase of corporate wealth.

International Center ofPhotography1133 6th Ave at 43rd St; Tues–Thurs10am–5pm, Fri 10am–8pm, Sat & Sun10am–6pm $8, students and seniors$7 t212/857-0000,wwww.icp.org.Founded in 1974 by Cornell

Capa (brother of warphotographer Robert Capa),this exceptional museum andschool sponsors twenty exhibitsa year dedicated to “concernedphotography,” avant-garde andexperimental works, andretrospectives of modernmasters.

The Algonquin Hotel59 W 44th St between 5th and 6th avest212/840-6800. “Dammit, it wasthe twenties and we had to besmarty.” So said Dorothy Parkerof the literary group known asthe Algonquin Round Table,whose members hung out at theAlgonquin Hotel and were closelyassociated with the New Yorkermagazine. Other regularsincluded Noel Coward (asknicely and someone will pointout his table), George BernardShaw, Irving Berlin, and BorisKarloff.Alan Jay Lerner evenwrote My Fair Lady in room 908.(For a review of the hotel, seep.205.)

Diamond RowW 47th St between 5th and6th aves.You’ll knowDiamond Row by thediamond-shaped lampsmounted on pylons ateither end.This strip,where you can getjewelry fixed atreasonable prices,features wholesale andretail shops chock full ofgems and was firstestablished in the 1920s.These working shops arelargely managed byHasidic Jews sportingtheir traditional beards,sidelocks, and dark suitsfashioned from stylesthat existed years ago inthe ghettos of Poland.

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Fifty-seventh StreetFifty-seventh Street competeswith Chelsea as the center forupmarket art sales. Galleries hereare noticeably snootier thantheir downtown relations, oftenrequiring an appointment forviewing. Incongruously, a stringof garish and touristy theme-eateries, such as Hard Rock Cafe,dot this trafficked East-Westthoroughfare, which provideseasy access to some ofMidtown’s major points ofinterest, such as Carnegie Hall.

Carnegie Hall154 W 57th St at 7th Ave; toursSept–June $6, $5 students, $5 seniorstours t212/903-9765, ticketst212/247-7800,wwww.carnegiehall.org. One of the world’sgreatest concert venues, stately

Renaissance-inspired CarnegieHall was built by steel magnateAndrew Carnegie for $1 millionin 1891.Tchaikovsky conductedon opening night and Mahler,Rachmaninov,Toscanini, FrankSinatra, and Judy Garland haveall played here (as have DukeEllington, Billie Holiday, theBeatles, and Spinal Tap).Thesuperb acoustics here ensure fullhouses most of the year; thosecraving a behind-the-scenesglimpse should take theexcellent tours.

Times Square With its seedy side all but past,Times Square is now a largelysanitized universe of popularconsumption. It takes its namefrom when the New York Timesbuilt offices here in 1904;

Attending a showIf you want to see a show, check out the TKTS booth in Times Square, which sellshalf-price, same-day tickets for Broadway shows (Mon–Sat 3–8pm, Sun11am–7pm, also Wed & Sat 10am–2pm for 2pm matinees). The booth has avail-able at least one pair of tickets for each performance of every Broadway and off-Broadway show, at 25- to 50-percent off (plus a $3 per ticket service charge),payable in cash or travelers’ checks only. Also, many theater box offices sell great-ly reduced “standing room only” tickets the day of the show.

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publisher Adolph Ochs staged aNew Year’s celebration here inhonor of their opening, atradition that continues today,though the paper itself has longsince moved its offices aroundthe corner to 43rd Street.Theneon, so much a signature ofthe square, was initially confinedto the theaters and spawned theterm “the Great White Way,” yetthe illumination is not limitedto theaters, of course. Myriadads, forming one of the world’smost garish nocturnal displays,promote hundreds of productsand services.You can findenough gifts in the souvenirshops for your 500 best friends.

The Theater DistrictWest of Broadway north of West42nd Street is considered theTheater District. Of the great oldtheaters still in existence, theNew Amsterdam, at 214 West42nd Street, and family-orientedNew Victory, at 209 West 42ndStreet, have been refurbished totheir original splendor.TheLyceum, at 149 West 45th Street,has its original facade, while theShubert Theatre, at 225 West44th Street, which hosted AChorus Line during its twenty-odd–year run, still occupies itsown small space and walkway.

Hell’s KitchenBetween 30th and 59th streetswest of Eighth Avenue, Hell’sKitchen today mostly centerson the engaging slash ofrestaurants, bars, and ethnicdelis of Ninth Avenue. Onceone of New York’s most violentand lurid neighborhoods, it wasfirst populated by Irishimmigrants, who were soonjoined by Greeks, PuertoRicans, and blacks.The rough-and-tumble neighborhood waspopularized in the 1957musical West Side Story.Recently, it has attracted a newresidential population, withrenovation and apartmentconstruction happening atbreak-neck speed andgentrification threatening tochange the neighborhoodforever.

The Intrepid Sea-Air-SpaceMuseumPier 86 at W 46th St and 12th Ave;April–Sept: Mon–Fri 10am–5pm,Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Oct–March:Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; $14.50, collegestudents and seniors $10.50, ages6–17 $9.50, ages 2–5 $2.50t212/245-0072,wwww.intrepidmuseum.org. Thisimpressive, 900-foot–long oldaircraft carrier has picked up

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capsules from the Mercury andGemini space missions andmade several trips to Vietnam.Today it holds an array ofmodern and vintage air- andseacraft, including the A-12Blackbird, the world’s fastest spyplane, and the USS Growler, theonly guided missile submarineopen to the public. It also hasinteractive exhibits, an on-boardrestaurant, and is now home tothe recently retired Concorde.

GalleriesKennedy Galleries730 5th Ave t212/541-9600. Adealer in nineteenth- andtwentieth-century Americanpainting, it shows a wide varietyof styles. It also has anoutstanding collection ofAmerican prints for sale.

Marlborough Gallery 40 W 57th St t212/541-4900.Specializing in famous Americanand European names, with sistergalleries in Chelsea, Madrid,Monaco, and London, wherethe orginal gallery was foundedin 1947 to help foster artistictalent, such as Henry Mooreand Phillip Guston.

Mary Boone Gallery745 5th Ave t212/752-2929. Since1977, Mary Boone has beenshaking up the New York artworld by showing and sellingcaptivating works by relativeunknowns, such as Jean MichelBasquiat, Ross Bleckner,Francesco Clemente, and morerecently Damien Loeb and WillCotton.

Tibor de Nagy Gallery724 5th Ave, 12th floor t212/262-5050. Established in 1950, thisvenerable gallery still manages

to show exciting works:painting, sculpture, andphotography fromcontemporary masters, as well asretrospectives of its past artists.

ShopsManny’s Music 156 W 48th St between 6th and 7thaves t212/819-0576. One of thebest music stores in what isNew York’s heaviestconcentration of musicalinstrument and sheet musicstores on the block of West 48thStreet between Sixth andSeventh avenues.

RestaurantsAquavit 13 W 54th St between 5th and 6thaves t212/307-7311. SuperbScandinavian food – pickledherring, salmon, even reindeer –in a lovely atrium restaurantwith a mock waterfall cascadingdown one of the walls.A realtreat, and priced accordingly;reserve well ahead.

Blue Fin W Hotel, Times Square, 1567 Broadwayat W 47th St t212/918-1400. LivelyMidtown seafood restaurantpopular with style-mavens aswell as tourists. Prices are aboutaverage for the neighborhood,but you get your money’sworth.Try the beet, goat cheese,and macadamia nut salad ($10)and the sesame-crusted tuna($25).

Bryant Park Grill 25 W 40th St between 5th and 6thaves t212/840-6500. The food isstandard-upscale – Caesar salad,grilled chicken, rack of lamb,hake – but the real reason to

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come is atmosphere, providedby the park, whether viewedfrom within the spacious diningroom or enjoyed al fresco onthe terrace. The Café at BryantPark, next door on the terrace(May–Sept), serves lessexpensive, lighter options, butbeware: it’s a huge singles scene.

Carnegie Deli 854 7th Ave between W 54th and 55thsts t212/757-2245. At thisfamous Jewish deli, the mostgenerously stuffed sandwiches inthe city are served by the rudestof waiters. Still, it’s a must-experience, if you can stand theinflated prices.

Chez Napoleon 365 W 50th St between 8th and 9thaves t212/265-6980. One ofseveral highly authentic Galliceateries that sprung up aroundhere in the 1940s and 1950s,Chez Napoleon, a friendly,family-run bistro, lives up to itsreputation. Bring a wad to enjoythe tradition, though.

Churrascaria Plataforma 316 W 49th St between 8th and 9thaves t212/245-0505. In this huge,open, Brazilian dining roommeat, the fare of choice, isserved by waiters walkingaround tables with swords

stabbed with succulent slabs ofgrilled pork, chicken, and lots ofbeef. Be careful – while the all-you-can-eat dinner price is ahefty $42.95, the caipirinhas areeven more expensive.

Emporio Brasil 15 W 46th St between 5th and 6th avest212/764-4646. Check out theauthentic Brazilian food andatmosphere, enhanced byreasonable prices for midtown.On Saturday afternoons, Brazil’snational dish, the tasty feijoada (astew of meaty pork and blackbeans, with rice) takes centerstage.

Joe Allen’s 326 W 46th St between 8th and 9thaves t212/581-6464. The tried-and-true formula of checkeredtablecloths, old-fashionedbarroom feel, and reliableAmerican food at moderateprices works excellently at thispopular pre-theater spot. Make areservation, unless you plan toarrive after 8pm.

Judson Grill 152 W 52nd St between 6th and 7thaves t212/582-5252.Sophisticated contemporaryAmerican with a loyal fan base.The smoked trout in blini($12.50) is a standout, as are any

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of the foie gras dishes.Thebraised shortribs ($35) isanother delicious pick, andthere’s always a vegetarianentree or two on the menuusing seasonal green marketproduce.

Le Bernardin 155 W 51st St between 6th and 7thaves t212/554-1515. One of thefinest and priciest Frenchrestaurants in the city; theaward-winning chef, EricRipert, offers an excellentsmoked salmon gravalax toppedwith scallop ceviche, amongmany other fishy dishes. Hissauces are not to be believed.

Ollie’s 200-b W 44th St between Broadwayand 8th Ave t212/921-5988. GoodChinese restaurant that servesmarvellous noodles, barbecuedmeats, and spare ribs. Not,however, a place to linger.Verycheap, very crowded, and verynoisy.Also very popular pre-theater place, so don’t bealarmed if there are long lines –due to the rushed service, theymove fast.

Petrossian 182 W 58th St at 7th Ave t212/245-2214. Pink granite and etchedmirrors set the mood at this ArtDeco temple to decadence,where champagne and caviarare tops. More affordableoptions include its $39 prix fixedinner.

Stage Deli834 7th Ave, between W 53rd and W54th sts T212/245-7850. Open-all-night, the Stage featuresgenuine New York attitude andgigantic, overstuffed sandwiches($12).

Sugiyama 251 W 55th St between Broadway and8th Ave t212/956-0670. You maywant to take out a loan beforedining at this superb Japaneserestaurant, where you’reguaranteed an exquisiteexperience, from its enchantingkaiseki (chef ’s choice) dinners(vegetarian or non) to its regalservice.

Thalia 828 8th Ave at W 50th St t212/399-4444. Imaginative, New Americancuisine and a solid choice forTheater District dining.The5000-square-foot dining space isfull of color, and the prices aren’tbad either.Try the spiced sweetpotato soup ($7) and the NewYork Blackout Cake ($8).

Trattoria dell’Arte900 7th Ave between W 56th and 57thsts t212/245-9800. Unusuallynice restaurant for this rathertame stretch of midtown, with alovely airy interior, excellentservice, and good food. Great,wafer-thin crispy pizzas, decentand imaginative pasta dishes foraround $20, and a mouth-watering antipasto bar – alleagerly patronized by an elegantout-to-be-seen crowd. Best toreserve.

BarsThe Collins Bar 735 8th Ave between W 46th and 47thsts t212/541-4206. Sleek, stylishbar has choice sports photosalong one side, original artworksalong the other – not tomention perhaps the mosteclectic jukebox in the city.

Hudson Hotel Bar & Library Hudson Hotel, 356 W 58th St between8th and 9th aves t212/554-6000.

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Once sizzling hot, these funkyhotel lounges have cooled offbut still make for a thrill-and-swill scene.

Jimmy’s Corner 140 W 44th St between Broadway and6th Ave t212/221-9510. The wallsof this long, narrow corridor ofa bar, owned by an ex-fighter/trainer, are a virtualBoxing Hall of Fame.You’d behard pressed to find a morecharacterful dive anywhere inthe city – or a better jazz/R&Bjukebox.

Landmark Tavern 626 11th Ave at W 46th St t212/757-8595. Off-the-beaten-track butlong-established Irish tavernwith a tasty menu with largeportions – the Irish soda breadis baked fresh every day.

Rudy’s 627 9th Ave between W 44th and 45thsts t212/974-9169. One of New

York’s cheapest,friendliest, andliveliest divebars, a favoritewith localactors andmusicians.Rudy’s offersfree hot dogsand a backyardthat’s great inthe summer.

RussianVodka Room 265 W 52nd Stbetween Broadwayand 8th Avet212/307-5835.Amid the dimlighting, enjoynumerous kindsof vodkas andcaviar as well asthe company of

Russian and eastern Europeanexpatriates.

Ye Olde Tripple Inn263 W 54th St between Broadway and8th Ave t212/245-9849. No-frillsIrish bar that serves inexpensivefood at lunchtime and earlyevening.A useful place to knowin this part of town.

Clubs and musicvenues

Birdland315 W 44th St between 8th and 9thaves t212/581-3080,Wwww.birdlandjazz.com. Celebrated altosaxophonist Charlie “Bird”Parker has served as theinspiration for this importantjazz venue for fifty years. Setsare at 9pm and 11pm nightly.Cover $20-40, $10 food/drinkminimum.

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Caroline’s on Broadway 1626 Broadway between W 49th and50th sts t212/757-4100. Thisglitzy room books some of thebest comedy acts in town.Two-drink minimum. $12–22 cover;more expensive on weekends.

China Club 268 W 47th St between Broadway and8th Ave t212/398-3800. Hugefancy schmanzy venue withoccasional live tunes performedby the likes of Bowie and theBoss thrown in.

Don’t Tell Mama 343 W 46th St between 8th and 9thaves t212/757-0788,Wwww.donttellmama.com. Thelively, convivial piano bar andcabaret features rising stars.Two-drink minimum in cabaretrooms, and showtimes andcovers vary ($5-$25).

Iridium Jazz Club1650 Broadway at W 51st St t212/582-2121. Contemporary jazz isperformed seven nights a week ina surrealist decor described as“Dolly meets Disney.”Thegodfather of electric guitar, LesPaul, plays every Monday. Showsat 8pm and 10pm, extra Fri &Sat show at 11.30pm. Cover$25–35, $10 food and drinkminimum. Sunday jazz brunch is

a bargain at $22 with all-you-can-drink mimosas.

Roseland 239 W 52nd St between Broadwayand 8th Ave t212/247-0200. Thisclub has retained the grandballroom feel of its heyday(take a gander at the shoes inthe entryway and the elaboratepowder rooms) but the $2.5million renovations make it agreat place to catch big namesbefore they hit thearena/stadium circuit.

The Supper Club240 W 47th St between Broadway and8th Ave t212/921-1940. Whitelinen tablecloths, a large dancefloor, and upscale loungejazz/hip-hop groups. Fri and Satat 8pm, Eric Comstock and theSupper Club’s house big bandswing with a vengeance. $25before 11pm; $15 after.

Swing 46 Jazz Club349 W 46th St between 8th and 9thaves t212/262-9554,Wwww.swing46.com. You can kickup your heels every night until2am to live swing bands. Dancelessons at 9.15 (included incover), and big sixteen-piecebands play one night a week.Sunday features tap dancing 5-8pm. Main cover $10, bar $5.

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Midtown EastRolling eastward from Fifth Avenue, through the 40s and50s, is the largely corporate and commercial areaknown as Midtown East. Here you’ll find the city’ssniffiest boutiques, best Art Deco facades, and exem-plary Modernist skyscrapers scattered primarily alongEast 42nd Street and Fifth, Park, and Madison avenues.Anchored by Cornelius Vanderbilt’s Beaux Arts train sta-tion, Grand Central Terminal, Midtown East is, morethan anything, a trove of architectural treasures thatinclude Mies van der Rohe and Philip Johnson’s 1958curtain-wall skyscraper, the Seagram Building; the auto-mobile-inspired 1930s’ Deco delight, the ChryslerBuilding; and the rambling geometric bulk of the UnitedNations complex.

Fifth AvenueThe grand sight- and store-studded spine of Manhattan,Fifth Avenue has signifiedsocial position and prosperityfor the last two centuries.Between 42nd and 59th streets,Fifth has always drawn crowds– particularly duringChristmas, when department-store windows are filled withelaborate displays – to gaze atwhat has become theautomatic image of wealth andopulence, or to visit the New

York Public Library orRockefeller Center.

The New York Public Libraryand Bryant Park42nd St and 5th Ave, Tues & Wed11am–7pm, Thurs–Sat 10am–6pmt212/930-0830,wwww.nypl.org. Thismonumental Beaux Arts buildingis the headquarters of the largestbranch public library system inthe world. Its steps, framed bytwo majestic reclining lions, thesymbols of the NYPL, are ameeting point and general

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Bar and BooksCampbell ApartmentsComfort Diner

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hangout, and you can eitherexplore inside by yourself or takeone of the tours.The highlightsare the large coffered 636-seatReading Room on the thirdfloor, where people as disparateas Leon Trotsky, Norman Mailer,and E.L. Doctorow worked.

Right behind the public librarybetween W 40th and 42ndstreets, Bryant Park is a grassy,square block filled with slendertrees, flower beds, and invitingchairs that was formallylandscaped in 1934.The summer

scene here can be lively, with freejazz and outdoor moviescreenings.

Rockefeller Center From 5th to 7th aves, between 47th to51st sts t212/332-6868,wwww.rockefellercenter.com. The heart ofmidtown’s glamour, RockefellerCenter was built between 1932and 1940 by John D. RockefellerJr, son of the oil magnate, and isone of the finest pieces of urbanplanning anywhere, balancing

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office space with cafés, a theater,underground concourses, androoftop gardens that worktogether with a rare intelligenceand grace.At its center, theLower Plaza holds a sunkenrestaurant in the summermonths – a great place forafternoon cocktails – linkedvisually to the downward flowof the building by PaulManship’s sparkling sculpturePrometheus. In winter this sunkenarea becomes an ice rink, andskaters show off their skills topassing shoppers. EachChristmas since 1931, a hugetree has been on display, and itslighting, with accompanyingmusical entertainment, drawsthrongs in early December.

The GE Building 30 Rockefeller Plaza. The GEBuilding rises 850 feet, itssymmetrical monumental linesmatching the scale of Manhattanitself. In the GE lobby, JoséMaria Sert’s murals, AmericanProgress and Time, are in tunewith the Thirties Decoambience.Among the building’smany offices are the NBCStudios, which produces the

long-running comedy hitSaturday Night Live and thepopular morning Today Show.Curiosity-satisfying hour-longtours behind the scenes of selectshows leave every thirty minutes(Mon–Fri, and every 15 minuteson weekends; Mon–Fri8.30am–5.30pm, Sat & Sun9.30am–4.30pm; reservations atthe NBC Experience Store TourDesk; $17.75, children $15.25;free ticket for a show recordingfrom the mezzanine lobby or outon the street;t212/664-7174).

Radio City Music Hall 1260 6th Ave at W 50 St; Mon–Sat10am–8pm, Sun 11am–8pm. Aworld-famous concert hall,Radio City is the last word in1930s’ luxury.The staircase isresplendent, with the world’slargest chandeliers, while thehuge auditorium looks like anextravagant scalloped shell.Hour-long “Stage Door”behind-the-scenes walking toursinclude a meeting with aRockette ($17, seniors $14,students $14; general infot212/307-7171, tour infot212/247-4777,wwww.radiocity.com).

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St Patrick’s Cathedral 50th Street and 5th Ave. Designedby James Renwick andcompleted in 1888, St Patrick’sCathedral is the result of apainstaking academic tour of theGothic cathedrals of Europe –perfect in detail, yet ratherlifeless in spirit, with a sterilitymade all the more striking bythe glass-black Olympic Towernext door, an exclusiveapartment block where JackieKennedy Onassis once lived.

Museum of Television and Radio25 W 52nd St between 5th and 6th aves,Tues–Sun noon–6pm, Thurs noon–8pm;$10, seniors & students $8,t212/621-6800,wwww.mtr.org. This finemedia museum holds anextraordinary archive of AmericanTV and radio broadcasts. Itscomputerized reference systemallows you to search and watch allmanner of programs on one of 96video consoles.

The American Craft Museum 40 W 53rd St between 5th and 6thaves, Mon–Thurs and Fri–Sun10am–6pm, Thurs 10am–8pm; $9,students and seniors $6 t212/956-3535,wwww.americancraftmuseum.org. Authoritativelycurated and presented by theAmerican Craft Council, thethree floors featuring finecontemporary crafts here offer aglimpse at some uniquelyAmerican handiwork andartisanry. Changing exhibits thatcover a wide array of materials(from paper to porcelain tometal to glass) and styles areaccompanied by lectures andworkshops.

The Museum of Modern Art 11 W 53rd St t212/708-9480,wwww.moma.org. Whileundergoing a $640-million

expansion that will result in awhopping 630,000 square feetof exhibition space, theMuseum of Modern Art(MoMA) is being temporarilyhoused in a facility in Queens(see p.190).The main location isexpected to re-open in early2005 in time for the museum’s75th anniversary.

One of the most celebratedmuseums in the world, MoMA’sselections from its vastpermanent collection of latenineteenth- and twentieth-century art cover every majormedium – illustration, design,photography, painting, sculpture,and film.

Highlights include the Post-Impressionist and Cubistpaintings of Cézanne, Picasso,and Braque; the inspiredabstractions of Mondrian,Kandinsky, and Miro; and thePop Art work of Warhol andJohns.The museum is one ofthe city’s most crowded and isbest visited on a weekday.

Trump Tower737 5th Ave. At Fifth Avenue and56th Street, New York real-estate developer Donald Trump’soutrageously overdone high-riseand atrium is just short ofrepellent to many – thoughperhaps not to those whofrequent the glamorous designerboutiques on the lower floors.Perfumed air, polished marblepaneling, and a five-storywaterfall are calculated to knockyou senseless.The building isclever, a neat little outdoorgarden is squeezed high in acorner, and each of the 230apartments above the atriumprovides views in threedirections.“The Donald” liveshere, along with other worthiesof the hyper-rich crowd,including Stephen Spielberg and

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Michael Jackson, who keeps athree-floor duplex here.

Grand Army Plaza Between 58th and 60th streetson Fifth Avenue is one of thecity’s most dramatic publicspaces – Grand Army Plaza.Flanked by hotels – the copper-lined chateau of the Plaza and,to the north, the high-neckedSherry Netherland and the Pierre– it boasts a fountain and a goldstatue of Civil War GeneralWilliam Tecumseh Sherman.

Plaza Hotel 59th St at Central Park Southt212/759-3000 . Familiar from itsmany film appearances, thecopper-fringed 1907 Plaza Hotelis worth a peek for its (slightlyfaded) gilt-and-brocade

grandeur.You might want tolinger a while on its steps toogle the comings-and-goings ofthose lucky enough to bestaying in one of its 800 rooms– a list that over the years hasincluded the likes of the Dukeand Duchess of Windsor, FrankLloyd Wright, and the Beatles.See p.206 for a review.

Madison AvenueA block east of Fifth, MadisonAvenue runs parallel to it, withsome of its sweep but less of theexcitement. It is a little removedfrom its 1960s and 1970s prime,when it was internationallyrecognized as the epicenter ofthe advertising industry.Nevertheless, it remains a majorupscale shopping boulevard.Several good stores – notablyseveral specializing in men’shaberdashery, shoes, and cigars –can be found on this aristocraticthoroughfare.

The Sony Building550 Madison Ave, between E 55th and56th sts. Philip Johnson’s 38-storySony Building (1978–84) followsthe Postmodernist theory ofeclectic borrowing fromhistorical styles: a Modernistskyscraper sandwiched between aChippendale top and aRenaissance base.While thebuilding has its fans, popularopinion holds that the towerdoesn’t work. Even though theground floor is well worthducking into to soak in the brutegrandeur, some speculateJohnson should have followedthe advice of his teacher, Miesvan der Rohe:“It’s better tobuild a good building than anoriginal one.”

Park Avenue“Where wealth is so swollen thatit almost bursts,” wrote

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Collinson Owen of Park Avenuein 1929, and things haven’tchanged much: corporateheadquarters jostle forprominence, pushed apart byPark’s broad avenue initially builtto accommodate elevated railtracks.Whatever your feelingsabout conspicuous wealth, ParkAvenue in the 40s and 50s (andfarther north) is one of the city’smost awesome sights.

Grand Central TerminalBuilt in 1871 under thedirection of Cornelius

Vanderbilt, Grand CentralTerminal was a masterly piece ofurban planning in its day.With abasic iron frame and dramaticBeaux Arts skin, the main trainstation’s concourse is a sight tobehold – 470ft long and 150fthigh, it boasts a barrel-vaultedceiling speckled like a Baroquechurch with a paintedrepresentation of the winternight sky. For the best view ofthe concourse – as well as theflow of commuters andcommerce – climb to thecatwalks that span the sixty-

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foot-high windows on theVanderbilt Avenue side.Afterthat, seek out the station’s moreesoteric reaches, including anew lower concourse brimmingwith take-out options for aquick bite. Free Wednesdaylunchtime tours of GrandCentral Station begin at12.30pm from the maininformation booth; Saturdaywalking and bus tours mayrequire reservations.

The Helmsley and Met Lifebuildings230 Park Ave between E 45th and 46thsts; 200 Park Ave between E 44th and45th sts. The Helmsley Building,a delicate, energeticconstruction with a lewdlyexcessive Rococo lobby andornate pyramid roof, rises in themiddle of Park Avenue, yet itsthunder was stolen in 1963 bythe Met Life Building, whichlooms behind. Bauhaus guruWalter Gropius had a hand indesigning this, and the criticalconsensus is that he could havedone better.As the headquartersof the now-defunct Pan Amairline, the building, in profile,was meant to suggest an aircraftwing, and the blue-gray masscertainly adds drama to thecityscape.Whatever success theMet Life scores, it robs ParkAvenue of the views south itdeserves and needs, sealing 44thStreet and sapping much of thevigor of the surroundingbuildings.

Waldorf Astoria Hotel301 Park Ave between E 49th and50th sts. The solid mass of the1931 Waldorf Astoria Hotelholds its own, with aresplendent statement of ArtDeco elegance and 1410guestrooms. Duck inside tostroll through a block of

vintage Deco grandeur,sweeping marble, and hushedplushness where such well-knowns as Herbert Hoover,Cole Porter, and PrincessGrace of Monaco havebunked.

St Bartholomew’s ChurchPark Ave at E 50th St.TheEpiscopalian St Bartholomew’sChurch is a low-slungRomanesque hybrid withportals designed by McKim,Mead and White.Addingimmeasurably to the street, itgives the lumbering skyscrapersa much-needed sense of scale.Due to the fact that it’s on someof the city’s most valuable realestate, the church fought againstdevelopers for years, andultimately became a test case forNew York City’s landmarkpreservation law.Today, itscongregation thrives and itsmembers sponsor manycommunity outreach programs.

The Seagram Building375 Park Ave, between E 52nd and53rd sts. Designed by Mies vander Rohe with Philip Johnson,

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the 1958 Seagram Building wasthe seminal curtain-wallskyscraper. Its floors aresupported internally, allowingfor a skin of smoky glass andwhisky-bronze metal. Everyinterior detail – from thefixtures to the lettering on themailboxes – was speciallydesigned.The plaza, an openforecourt designed to set thebuilding apart from itsneighbors, was such a success asa public space that the cityrevised the zoning laws toencourage other high-risebuilders to supply plazas.

The Chrysler Building405 Lexington Ave between E 42nd andE 43rd sts. One of Manhattan’sbest-loved structures, theChrysler Building dates from atime (1928–30) when architectsmarried prestige with grace andstyle.The car-motif friezes,jutting gargoyles, and archedstainless-steel pinnacle give thesolemn midtown skyline awelcome whimsical touch.Thelobby, once a car showroom,with its walls covered in Africanmarble and murals depictingairplanes, machines, and thebrawny builders who worked on

the tower, is for the moment allyou can see of the building’sinterior.

Citicorp CenterLexington Ave between E 53rd and54th sts. Completed in 1979, thechisel-topped Citicorp Center isone of Manhattan’s mostconspicuous landmarks.Theslanted roof was designed tohouse solar panels to providepower for the building, and itadopted the distinctive building-top as a corporate logo. Inside,there’s also a small St Peter’sChurch, known as “the JazzChurch” for being the venue ofmany a jazz musician’s funeral.

The United Nations Guided tours daily, weekdays9.30am–4.45pm, weekends10am–4.30pm; $10, seniors $7.50,students $6.50 t212/963-8687,wwww.un.org/MoreInfo/pubsvs. Amust visit for those interestedin global goings on, the UnitedNations complex comprises theglass-curtained Secretariat, thecurving sweep of the GeneralAssembly, and, connectingthem, the low-risingConference Wing.Tours –bring ID for security purposes

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– take in the UN conferencechambers and its constituentparts. Even more revealing thanthe stately chambers are itsthoughtful exhibition spacesand artful country gifts onview, including a painting byPicasso.

ShopsBergdorf Goodman 754 5th Ave at 58th St t212/753-7300. Housed in a formerVanderbilt mansion, thisvenerable department storecaters to the city’s wealthiestclientele. Even if you can’tafford to shop, it’s still fun tobrowse and dream.

Caswell-Massey Ltd 518 Lexington Ave at E 48th Stt212/755-2254. The oldestpharmacy in America, Caswell-Massey sells a shaving creaminitially created for GeorgeWashington and a cologneblended for his wife, as well asmore mainstream items.

JR Cigar 562 5th Ave at 46th St t212/997-2227. There are over 1000different kinds of cigars on salehere; its enormous – andaffordably priced – rangeincludes the best, as well assome lesser-known brands.

Niketown 6 E 57th St between 5th and Madisonaves t212/891-6453. A dubiousthough impossible-to-missattraction and unrestrainedcelebration of the sneaker thatneeds to be seen to be believed.The overly earnest attempt at amuseum, laden with soundeffects, space-age visuals, andexhibits inlaid into the floor,walls, and special display casescan’t mask the fact that it’sbasically a shop.

Saks Fifth Avenue 611 5th Ave at 50th St t212/753-4000. Every bit as glamorous asit was when it opened in 1922,Saks remains virtuallysynonymous with style andquality. It has updated itself tocarry the merchandise of all thebig designers.

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Takashimaya 693 5th Ave at 54th St t212/350-0100. The NY outpost of thefamed Tokyo store features fineJapanese and imported goods:bath items, kitchen- andtableware, and cosmetics.There’salso a florist, gallery space, andbasement tearoom, a sublime(and reasonably priced) place toescape the bustle of midtown.

Tiffany & Co. 727 5th Ave at 57th St t212/755-8000. If you’re keen to do morethan merely window-shop,Tiffany’s is worth a perusal, itssoothing green marble andweathered wood interior bestdescribed by Truman Capote’sfictional Holly Golightly:“Itcalms me down right away . . .nothing very bad could happento you there.”

RestaurantsComfort Diner 214 E 45th St between 2nd and 3rdaves t212/867-4555. One of thefriendliest spots in town, thisretro diner serves up heartystaples like meatloaf, friedchicken, and macaroni andcheese. It’s a great place to fillup and rest weary toes.

Four Seasons 99 E 52nd St between Lexington andPark aves t212/754-9494. Havingepitomized NYC dining fordecades, this timeless PhilipJohnson-designed restaurantdelivers on every front, especiallyits French-influenced Americanmenu. If you can’t swing theexpense, go for a cocktail andpeek at the pool room.

Hatsuhana 17 E 48th St between 5th and Madisonaves t212/355-3345; 237 Park Ave at

E 46th St t212/661-3400. Everysushi lover’s favorite sushirestaurant now has two branches.Not at all cheap, so try to getthere for the prix fixe lunch.

Mee Noodle Shop and Grill 922 2nd Ave at E 49th St t212/888-0027. A good alternative to thepricier Asian places in this area,Mee is a standard in-and-out jointthat does great soup noodles andother Chinese classics very fastand very well.

Oyster Bar Lower level, Grand Central Terminal at42nd St and Park Ave t212/490-6650. Down in the vaulteddungeons of Grand Central, thefabled Oyster Bar drawsmidtown office workers forlunch and all kinds of seafoodlovers for dinner who choosefrom a staggering menufeaturing daily catches – she-crab bisque, steamed Mainelobster, and sweet Kumamotooysters. Prices are moderate toexpensive; you can eat morecheaply at the bar.

Rosen’s Delicatessen23 E 51st St between 5th and Madisonaves t212/541-8320. EnormousArt Deco restaurant, renownedfor its pastrami and corned beef,and handily situated for thosesuffering from midtownshopping fatigue. Goodbreakfasts too.

Smith & Wollensky 797 3rd Ave at E 49th St t212/753-1530. Clubby atmosphere in agrand setting, where waiters –many of whom have workedhere for twenty years or more –serve you the primest cuts ofbeef imaginable. Quite pricey –you’ll pay at least $33 a steak –but worth the splurge.

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Solera 216 E 53rd St between 2nd and 3rdaves t212/644-1166. Tapas andother Spanish specialties in astylish townhouse setting.Asyou’d expect from thesurroundings and the ambience,it can be expensive.

Vong 200 E 54th St between 2nd and 3rdaves t212/486-9592. This is aneccentrically, exoticallydecorated restaurant, whosechefs take a French colonialapproach to Thai cooking,putting mango in foie gras orsesame and tamarind onMoscovy duck; somehow itworks.You can get a “tastingmenu” of samples for thebargain price of $72 per person.

BarsBar and Books, Beekman 889 1st Ave at E 50th St t212/980-9314. One of the few spots youcan still drink and smoke in thecity (thanks to its cigar status),this upper-crust bar attracts alltypes, including a healthycontingent of Wall Streeters.

Campbell Apartment southwest balcony in Grand CentralTerminal t212/953-0409. Oncehome of businessman John W.Campbell, who oversaw theconstruction of Grand Central,

this majestic space – built tolook like a thirteenth-centuryFlorentine palace – was sealedup for years. Now, it’s one ofNew York’s most distinctivebars. Go early and don’t wearsneakers.

Divine Bar 244 E 51st St between 2nd and 3rdaves t212/319-9463. Althoughoften packed with corporatetypes communing with theircellphones, this swanky tapaslounge has a great selection ofwines and imported beers, notto mention tasty appetizers andoutdoor seating – a treat roundhere.

Lever House 390 Park Ave at E 53rd St t212/888-2700. NYC’s newestpower-drink scene is in a 1950slandmark, that revolutionizedskyscraper design.The newinterior strikes a balancebetween retro and futuristic; it’sworth a look and a cocktail, ortwo – you never know whomyou’ll rub elbows with here.

P.J. Clarke’s 915 3rd Ave at E 55th St t212/317-1616. One of the city’s mostfamous watering holes, this is aspit-and-sawdust alehouse witha restaurant out the back.Youmay recognize it as the settingof the film The Lost Weekend.

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Central Park“All radiant in the magic atmosphere of art and taste,”

enthused Harper’s magazine upon the opening in 1876of Central Park, the first landscaped park in the US.Today, few New Yorkers could imagine life without it.Set smack in the middle of Manhattan, extending from59th to 110th streets, it provides residents (and street-weary tourists) with a much-needed refuge from thearduousness of big-city life. The two architects commis-sioned to design the then 843 swampy acres, FrederickLaw Olmsted and Calvert Vaux, were inspired by classicEnglish landscape gardening. They designed 36 elegantbridges, each unique, and planned a revolutionary sys-tem of four sunken transverse roads to segregate differ-ent kinds of traffic. As New York grew, urban leisuretime and the park’s popularity increased. Today,although the skyline has changed greatly and some ofthe open space has been turned into asphalted play-grounds, the intended sense of captured nature largelysurvives.

Wollman Memorial IceSkating RinkOct–April Mon & Tues 10am–3pm, Wed& Thurs 10am–10pm, Fri & Sat10am–11pm, Sun10am–9pm weekdays$8.50, weekends $11,children $4.50 t212/439-6900. Sit or standabove the rink towatch skaters andcontemplate the viewof Central Park Southor the skylineemerging above thetrees. Or rent yourown ice skates inwinter or rollerbladesin summer.

Central Park Zoo April–Oct Mon–Fri10am–5pm, Sat & Sun10am–5.30pm Nov–Marchdaily 10am–4.30pm $6,ages 3–12 $1, under 3 freet212/439-6500,

wwww.centralpark.org/find/wildlife.This small zoo contains over ahundred species in largelynatural-looking homes with the

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animals as close to theviewer as possible: thepenguins, for example,swim around at eye-level in Plexiglaspools. Otherattractions includepolar bears, monkeys,nocturnal creatures,and sea lions cavortingin a pool right by thezoo entrance.Thecomplex also featuresthe Tisch Children’sZoo, with a pettingzoo and interactivedisplays.

The CarouselDaily 10.30am–6pmweather permitting 90ct212/879-0244. Aboutmid-park at 65thStreet, you will see theoctagonal brickbuilding housing theCarousel. Built in1903 and moved tothe park from ConeyIsland in 1951, thisvintage carousel, oneof fewer than 150 oldcarousels left in thecountry, is one of thepark’s little gems.

The MallIf the weather’s nicehead straight to theMall to witness everymanner of streetperformer. Flanked bystatues of the ecstatic-looking Scottish poetRobert Burns and apensive Sir WalterScott, withShakespeare andLudwig vanBeethoven nearby, theMall is the park’s mostformal, but by nomeans quiet, stretch.

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At the southern baseof the Mall is theonlyacknowledgment topark architectOlmsted – a smallflowerbed with adedication plaque.

The SheepMeadowBetween 66th and69th streets on thewestern side, thisswath of green isnamed for the fifteenacres of commonswhere sheep grazeduntil 1934.Today, thearea is crowded inthe summer withpicnic blankets,sunbathers, andFrisbee players.Twograss courts used forlawn bowling andcroquet are found on a hill nearthe meadow’s northwest corner;to the southeast lie volleyballcourts. On warm weekends, the

area between the SheepMeadow and the north end ofthe Mall becomes filled withcolorfully attired rollerbladers

Visiting the parkCentral Park is so enormous that it’s almost impossible to cover it in one visit.Nevertheless, the intricate footpaths that meander with no discernible organiza-tion through it are one of its greatest successes. If you do get lost and need to fig-ure out exactly where you are, find the nearest lamppost: the first two digits onthe post signify the number of the nearest cross street. It is also helpful to stop byone of the four Visitor Centers (at Belvedere Castle, The Dairy, Charles A. DanaDiscovery Center, and Harlem Meer) to pick up a free map. As for safety, youshould be fine during the day, though always try to avoid being alone in an isolat-ed part of the park. Organized walking tours are available from a number ofsources including the Urban Park Rangers and the Visitor Centers, but one of thebest ways to explore the park is to rent a bicycle from either the Loeb Boathouse(between 74th and 75th sts, roughly $9–15 an hour) or Metro Bicycles (Lexingtonat E 88th St; $7 per hour; t212/427-4450). Otherwise, it’s easy to get around onfoot, along the many paths that criss-cross the park. If you want to see the build-ings illuminated from the park at night, one option is to fork out for a carriage ride;the best place to pick up a hack is along Central Park South, between Fifth andSixth avenues. A twenty-minute trot costs approximately $35, excluding tip, and$10 for every additional 15min after that; t212/246-0520.For general park information T212/360-3444 or t212/310-6600, Wwww.centralparknyc.org.

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dancing to loud funk, disco, andhip-hop music – one of the bestfree shows around town.

Bethesda Terrace andFountain The only formal element of theoriginal Olmsted and Vaux plan,the Bethesda Terrace overlooksthe lake; beneath the terrace isan arcade whose tiled floors andelaborate decoration arecurrently being restored.Thecrowning centerpiece of theBethesda Fountain is thenineteenth-century Angel of theWaters sculpture; its earnest,puritanical angels (Purity,Health, Peace, and Temperance)continue to watch reproachfullyover their wicked city.

Loeb Boathouse and aroundMarch–Oct daily 10am–6pm, weatherpermitting $10 for the first hour, and$2.50 per 15min after $30 depositrequired t212/517-2233. You cango for a Venetian-style gondolaride or rent a rowboat from theLoeb Boathouse on the lake’seastern bank – a thoroughlyenjoyable way to spend anafternoon. Across the water, atthe narrowest point on thelake, stands the elegant cast-

iron and wood Bow Bridge,designed by park architectCalvert Vaux.

The Ramble Directly over Bow Bridge fromLoeb Boathouse you’ll findyourself in the unruly woods ofThe Ramble, a 37-acre areafilled with narrow windingpaths, rock outcroppings,streams, and an array of nativeplant life that should definitelybe avoided at night.

Strawberry FieldsThis peaceful pocket of the parkis dedicated to the memory ofJohn Lennon, who was murderedin 1980 in front of his then-home, the Dakota Building onCentral Park West.The tragicevent is memorialized with around Italian mosaic with theword “Imagine” at its center,donated by Lennon’s widow,Yoko Ono, and invariablycovered with flowers. Every yearwithout fail on December 8th,the anniversary of Lennon’smurder, Strawberry Fields ispacked with his fans, singingBeatles songs and sharing theirgrief.

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The Great LawnReseeded andrenewed, the GreatLawn hosts freeNew YorkPhilharmonic andMetropolitan Operasummertimeconcerts, featureseight softball fields,and, at its northernend, new basketballand volleyball courtsand a running track.At the southern endof the lawn, therefurbished TurtlePond, with its newwooden dock andnature blind, is a fineplace to viewaquatic wildlife.

Belvedere Castle The highest point inthe park (and therefore asplendid viewpoint), BelvedereCastle, designed by parkarchitect Vaux and his longtimeassistant, Jacob Wrey Mould,houses the New YorkMeteorological Observatory’sweather center, responsible forproviding the official dailyCentral Park temperaturereadings. First erected in 1869 asa lookout, it is now the home ofthe Urban Park Rangers and aVisitor Center (Tues–Sun10am–5pm;t212/772-0210;walking tours, bird-watchingexcursions, and educationalprograms).

Delacorte Theatert212/539-8750,wwww.publictheater.org. Thisperformance space is home to allmanner of concerts and thethoroughly enjoyable Shakespearein the Park in the summer.Tickets are free but go quickly;visit the website for details.

The ReservoirThere are fewer attractions andmore open space above theGreat Lawn, much of which istaken up by “the Reservoir.”The 107-acre, billion-gallonbody of water is no longeractive as a reservoir and is nowbetter known for the raised1.58-mile running track thatencircles it. Disciplined NewYorkers faithfully jog here, andthe New York Road Runners’Club has a booth at the mainentrance.

Conservatory GardenIf you see nothing else above86th Street in the park, don’tmiss the Conservatory Garden, apleasing, green space featuringEnglish, French, and Italianstyles filled with flowering treesand fanciful fountains. It’s agreat place to stop for a breakwhile navigating Fifth Avenue’sMuseum Mile.

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CafésBoathouse Café Central Park Rowboat Lake, E 72nd Stentrance t212/517-2233. This is apeaceful retreat from a hardday’s trudging around the FifthAvenue museums, or a romanticevening destination.You getgreat views of the celebratedskyline and surprisingly goodfood, but prices can be steep.Open year-round.

RestaurantsTavern on the Green Central Park West between W 66th andW 67th sts t212/873-3200. Thisfantastical if tacky tourist trapremains a New York institution.The American and Continentalcuisine has improved in recentyears, and on Thursday eveningsduring warmer months, there’sdancing under the stars on itsterrace overlooking the park.

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The Upper East SideThe defining characteristic of Manhattan’s Upper EastSide is wealth, which, of course, has its privileges.While other neighborhoods were penetrated by immi-grant groups and artistic trends, the area has remainedprimarily an enclave of the well-off, with upscale shops,clean and relatively safe streets, well-preserved build-ings and landmarks, most of the city’s finest museums,and some of its most famous boulevards: Fifth,Madison, and Park avenues.

Fifth Avenue The haughty patrician face ofManhattan since the 1876opening of Central Park alongwhich it runs, Fifth Avenue haslured the Carnegies,Astors,Vanderbilts,Whitneys, andothers north to build theirfashionable Neoclassicalresidences.Through the latterpart of the nineteenth century,fanciful mansions were built atvast expense, but then lastedonly ten or fifteen years beforebeing demolished for evenwilder extravagances or, morecommonly, grand apartmentbuildings.As Fifth Avenueprogresses north, it turns intothe Museum Mile, New York’sgreatest concentration of art andexhibition spaces – several ofthem, like the Frick Collection,housed in the few remainingmansions.

Temple Emanu-El5th Ave and E 65th St Sun–Thurs10am–4.30pm, Fri 10am–3.30pm, Satnoon–5pm free t212/744-1400.America’s largest reformsynagogue, the Temple Emanu-El, is a brooding,Romanesque–Byzantine cavern.As you enter, the interior seemsto melt away into darkness,making you feel very smallindeed.

The Frick Collection1 E 70th St at 5th Ave; Tues, Thurs, &Sat 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–9pm, Sun1–6pm; $12, students $5 t212/288-0700,wwww.frick.org. Formerlythe house of Henry Clay Frick,probably the most ruthless ofNew York’s robber barons, thishandsome spread is now thetranquil home of the FrickCollection.This legacy of hisself-aggrandizement affords arevealing glimpse into thesumptuous life enjoyed by thecity’s big industrialists.Thecollection includes paintings byReynolds, Hogarth,Gainsborough, Bellini, El Greco,and Vermeer.The West Galleryholds Frick’s greatest prizes: twoTurners, views of Cologne andDieppe; van Dyck’s informalportraits of Frans Snyders andhis wife; and a set of piercingself-portraits by Rembrandt,along with his enigmatic PolishRider.

The Metropolitan Museum ofArt 5th Ave at E 82nd St; Tues–Thurs &Sun 9.30am–5.15pm, Fri & Sat9.30am–8.45pm suggested donation$12, students $7 T212/535-7710,Wwww.metmuseum.org. Theforemost art museum inAmerica, the MetropolitanMuseum of Art (or the Met) was

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designed in a Gothic Revival-style brick, contrasting with theprevailing notion of the day thata museum should be amagnificent, daunting structure.The collection takes in over twomillion works and spans thecultures of America, Europe,Africa, the Far East, and theclassical and Egyptian worlds.Broadly, the museum breaksdown into seven majorcollections: European Art –Painting and Sculpture;Asian Art;American Painting andDecorative Arts; Egyptianantiquities; Medieval Art;AncientGreek and Roman Art; and theArt of Africa, the Pacific, and theAmericas.

Among the undeniablestandouts of the collection is theTemple of Dendur, built by theEmperor Augustus in 15 BC forthe Goddess Isis of Philae andmoved here en masse as a gift ofthe Egyptian governmentduring the construction of theAswan High Dam in 1965(otherwise it would havedrowned). Similarly transportedfrom its original site is FrankLloyd Wright’s Room from theLittle House, Minneapolis, whichembodies the architect’s sleek,horizontal aesthetic, from thesquare chairs that are better tolook at than sit on to thewindowed walls that blurinterior and exterior divisions. Itcan be found in the AmericanWing, close to being a museumin its own right and a thoroughintroduction to thedevelopment of fine art inAmerica. Early in thenineteenth century,Americanpainters embraced landscapepainting and nature.WilliamSidney Mount depicted scenesof his native Long Island, oftenwith a sly political angle, andthe painters of the Hudson

Valley School glorified thelandscape in their vast lyricalcanvases.Thomas Cole, theschool’s doyen, is wellrepresented, as is his pupilFrederick Church.

The Met is particularly notedfor its European Painting,tracing several centuries’ worthof art. Dutch painting isparticularly strong, embracing animpressive range ofRembrandts, Hals,Vermeers –his Young Woman with a WaterJug is a perfect example of hisskill in composition and tonalgradation, combined with anuncannily naturalistic sense oflighting.Andrea Mantegna’sdark, almost northern EuropeanAdoration of the Shepherds andCarlo Crivelli’s distended,expressive figures in theMadonna and Child highlight theMet’s Italian Renaissancecollection. Spanish painting isnot as well represented, but youwill find such masters as Goya,Velázquez, and El Greco, whoseView of Toledo suggests abrooding intensity as the skiesseem about to swallow up theghost-like town – arguably thebest of his works displayedanywhere in the world.

The Museum’s Asian Art isjustly celebrated for its Japanesescreens and Buddhist statues,but no trip is complete withoutstopping at the Chinese GardenCourt, a serene, minimalistretreat enclosed by the galleries,and the adjacent Ming Room, atypical salon decorated inperiod style with woodenlattice doors.The naturally litgarden is representative of onefound in Chinese homes: apagoda, small waterfall, andstocked goldfish pondlandscaped with limestonerocks, trees, and shrubs conjureup a sense of peace.

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Whatever you do choose tosee, be sure if you comebetween May through Octoberto ascend to the Cantor RoofGarden (see p.170).The leafygarden’s an outdoor gallery,showcasing contemporarysculpture; in summer it’s alsonominally a bar, though thespotty drinks and pricey snacksaren’t the reason to come here.What draws most is the views,from the skyscrapers ofmidtown to the south to thepark looming westwards. By farthe best time to come for acocktail is October, when theweather’s cooler and the foliageeverywhere is turning.

The Guggenheim Museum1071 5th Ave at E 89th St; Sat–Wed10am–5.45pm, Fri 10am–8pm; $15,students and seniors $10, under 12free, Fri 6–8pm pay what you wisht212/423-3500,wwww.guggenheim.org. Designed

by Frank Lloyd Wright, the1959 Guggenheim Museum isbetter known for the building inwhich it’s housed than itscollection. Its centripetal spiralramp, which winds all the wayto its top floor, is still thoughtby some to favor Wright’stalents over those of the artistsexhibited. Much of the buildingis given over to temporaryexhibitions, but the permanentcollection includes work byChagall, Léger, the majorCubists, and Kandinsky, as wellas late nineteenth-centurypaintings, notably Degas’Dancers, Modigliani’s JeanneHéburene with Yellow Sweater, andsome sensitive early Picassos.

National Academy of Design1083 5th Ave between E 89th and90th sts; Wed & Thurs noon–5pm,Fri, Sat, & Sun 11am–6pm; $8,students and seniors $4.50t212/369-4880,wwww.nationalacademy.org. A tripto the National Academy ofDesign, founded in 1825 alongthe lines of London’s RoyalAcademy, is more like a visit toa favorite relative’s house thanto a museum.The building isan imposing Beaux Artstownhouse, complete withcarpeted rooms, a twistingstaircase, and a fine collectionof nineteenth- throughtwenty-first century painting,highlighted by landscapes ofthe Hudson Valley School.Anna Huntington’s sculptureDiana gets pride of placebelow the cheerful rotunda.

Cooper-Hewitt NationalDesign Museum 2 E 91st St at 5th Ave; Tues–Thurs10am–5pm, Fri 10am–9pm, Sat10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm $8,students and seniors $5 t212/849-8400,wwww.ndm.si.edu. When he

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decided in 1898 to build atwhat was then theunfashionable end of FifthAvenue, millionaire industrialistAndrew Carnegie asked for “themost modest, plainest and mostroomy house in New York.”Today, this wonderfulSmithsonian-run institution isthe only museum in the USdevoted exclusively to historicand contemporary design. Itstemporary exhibits range intheme from fashion to furnitureto industrial design.

Jewish Museum1109 5th Ave at E 92nd St; Sun–Wed11am–5.45pm, Thurs 11am–8pm, Fri11am–3pm $10, students and seniors$7.50, under 12 free, Thurs 5–9pmfree t212/423-3200,wwww.jewishmuseum.org. Withover 28,000 items, this is thelargest museum of Judaicaoutside Israel.A collection ofHanukkah lamps is a highlight,although you will find yourselfhere to view one of themuseum’s changing displays ofworks by major internationalJewish artists, such as Chagalland Soutine.

Museum of the City of NewYork1220 5th Ave at E 103rd St; Wed–Sun10am–5pm, groups only Tues;suggested donation $7, students $4t212/534-1672,wwww.mcny.org.Spaciously housed in a neo-Georgian mansion, thepermanent collection of thismuseum provides acomprehensive and fascinatinglook at the evolution of the cityfrom Dutch times to thepresent, with prints,photographs, costumes,furniture, and film. One of itspermanent exhibits, New YorkToy Stories, affords an engagingtrip from the late 1800s to todaythat consists of all manner ofmotion toys, board games, sportsequipment, and dollhouses.

Madison AvenueAn elegant shopping street,Madison Avenue is lined withtop-notch designer clothesstores (some of whose doors arekept locked), and is enhanced bythe energizing presence of theWhitney Museum of AmericanArt. Providing a counterpoint,the stately St James’ Church at865 Madison Avenue, where thefuneral service for JacquelineOnassis was held, features agraceful Byzantine altar.

The Whitney Museum ofAmerican Art945 Madison Ave at E 75th St;Tues–Thurs, Sat, & Sun 11am–6pm, Fri1–9pm $10, students $8 t212/570-3676,wwww.whitney.org. Boastingsome of the best gallery space inthe city, the Whitney is theperfect forum for one of thepre-eminent collections oftwentieth-century American art.It holds great temporaryexhibitions, including theWhitney Biennial, which gives aprovocative overview of what’s

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happening in contemporaryAmerican art.The fifth floortakes you from Edward Hopperto the mid-century, while thesecond floor brings you fromJackson Pollock up through thepresent day.The collection isparticularly strong on MarsdenHartley, Georgia O’Keeffe, andsuch Abstract Expressionists asPollock,Willem de Kooning,and Mark Rothko.

Park AvenueResidential Park Avenue isstolidly comfortable and oftenelegant, sweeping down the spineof upper Manhattan. One of thebest features of this boulevard isthe awe-inspiring view south, asPark Avenue coasts down to theNew York Central and Met Lifebuildings. In the low 90s, thelarge black shapes of the LouiseNevelson sculptures stand out onthe traffic islands.

Seventh Regiment Armory643 Park Ave between E 66th and67th sts; t212/744-8180.TheSeventh Regiment Armory wasbuilt in the 1870s to serve themilitia, but is now best knownfor its fine art fairs and theprestigious Winter AntiquesShow. Inside, the armoryfeatures a grand double stairwayand spidery wrought-ironchandeliers, along with twosurviving interiors – theVeterans’ Room and theLibrary, executed by the firm

that included Louis ComfortTiffany and Stanford White.

The Asia Society Museum725 Park Ave at E 70th St Tues–Sun11am–6pm, Fri until 8pm $7, studentsand seniors $5, free Fri 6–9pmt212/517-ASIA,wwww.asiasocietymuseum.com. Aprominent educational resourceon Asia founded by John D.Rockefeller 3rd, the Asia Societyoffers an exhibition spacededicated to both traditionaland contemporary art from allover Asia. In addition to theusually worthwhile temporaryexhibits, intriguingperformances, politicalroundtables, lectures, films, andfree events are frequently held.

Mount Vernon Hotel Museum& Garden 421 E 61st St; Tues–Sun 11am–4pm,June–July open Tues 11am–9pm;closed in August; $5, students andseniors $5, under 12 free; t212/838-6878,wwww.mountvernonhotelmuseum.org. This historicalinterpretation of the MountVernon Hotel (1826–33) ishoused in an eighteenth-centurybuilding that managed to surviveby the skin of its teeth.Thefurnishings, knickknacks, and theserene little park out back aremore engaging than the houseitself, unless you’re lucky enoughto be guided around by achattily urbane Colonial Dame –a handful are guides here.

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Gracie Mansion and CarlSchurz ParkAt E 89th St and East End Ave; tourson Wed, late March through mid-Nov;suggested admission $4, students andseniors $3 reservations requiredt212/570-4751, wwww.nyc.gov.One of the city’s best-preservedcolonial buildings, this 1799mansion has served as theofficial residence of the mayorof New York City since 1942(though the current mayor,billionaire Michael Bloomberg,decided to forgo residence herealtogether in favor of his own,much plusher digs). AdjacentCarl Schurz Park with itsriverside promenade is anexceptionally well-manicuredand maintained park, mainlybecause of the high-profilesecurity that surrounds GracieMansion.

ShopsBarney’s 660 Madison Ave at E 61st Stt212/826-8900. The hippest andmost fashion-forward of the bigNYC department stores. Checkthe website for dates of itsfamous semi-annual warehousesales, where couture bargains(and catfights) abound.

Bloomingdale’s 1000 3rd Ave at E 59th St t212/705-2000. One of Manhattan’s mostfamous department stores,“Bloomies” is packed withdesigner clothiers, perfumeconcessions, and the like.

Dylan’s Candy Bar1011 3rd Ave at E 60th St t646/735-0078. A sweet-tooth’s dream,Dylan’s comprises two floorschock full of 5000 candies, aswell as an ice cream and sodafountain.

Orwasher’s Bakery308 E 78th St between 1st and 2ndaves t212/288-6569. Since 1916,this kosher Old World bakeryhas been churning out excellentraisin pumpernickel andchallahs. It’s a blast from yourgrandmother’s past.

Shanghai Tang 714 Madison Ave between E 63rd and64th Sts t212/888-0111. FineChinese-inspired fashions andhousewares for those who cravemandarin collars and silk shades.

Tender Buttons 143 E 62nd St between Lexington andThird aves t212/758-7004. Thisprecious boutique sells unusualand antique buttons andfasteners.

The Terrence Conran Shop407 E 59th St at 1st Ave t212/755-9079. The celebrated designguru’s collection of favoritegoods for the home are availablehere – and surprisingly affordable.

Vera Wang Bridal Salon 991 Madison Ave at E 77th Stt212/628-3400. Gorgeousgossamer bridal gowns, butsensitive brides should steerclear – the attitude hereabounds.

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Cafés

Café Sabarsky in the NeueGallery 1048 5th Ave at E 86th St t212/288-0665. Try to get a table by thewindow at this sumptuousViennese café with great pastriesand coffees. Simply one of themost civilized places in theneighborhood for a pick-me-up.

Payard Bistro 1032 Lexington Ave between E 73rdand 74th sts t212/717-5252. Don’tmind the snooty staff – just gofor the chocolates and indulgeyourself.

Serendipity 3225 E 60th St between 2nd and 3rdaves t212/838-3531. Adornedwith Tiffany lamps, this long-established eatery/ice-creamparlor is celebrated for its frozenhot chocolate, a trademarkedand copyrighted recipe, which isout of this world; the wealth ofice cream offerings are a realtreat, too.

Restaurants Aureole 34 E 61st St between Madison andPark aves t212/319-1660. MagicalFrench-accented American foodin a gorgeous old brownstonesetting.The prix-fixe optionsshould bring the cost down to$70 per head, but it’s also worthstopping by just for the show-stopping desserts.

Barking Dog Luncheonette 1678 3rd Ave at E 94th St t212/831-1800; also 1453 York Ave at E 77th Stt212/861-3600. This diner-likeplace offers outstanding, cheapAmerican food (like mashedpotatoes and gravy). Kids will

feel at home, especially with thepuppy motif.

Bistro du Nord 1312 Madison Ave at E 93rd Stt212/289-0997. A cozy bistrowith excellent Parisian fare.Verystylish atmosphere withmoderate to expensive prices –entrees run $19–26.Try theduck confit.

Daniel 60 E 65th St between Madison andPark aves t212/288-0033. One ofthe best French restaurants inNew York City, Daniel offersupscale and expensive fare fromcelebrity chef Daniel Boulud.The fava-encrusted halibut istruly amazing.

E.A.T. 1064 Madison Ave between E 80th and81st sts t212/772-0022. Expensiveand crowded but the food’sexcellent (celebrated restaurateurand gourmet grocer Eli Zabar isthe owner).Try the soups andbreads, and the ficelles andParmesan toast; the mozzarella,basil, and tomato sandwiches arefresh and heavenly.

Ecco-la 1660 3rd Ave between E 92nd and93rd sts t212/860-5609. Uniquepasta combinations at verymoderate prices make this oneof the Upper East Side’s mostpopular Italians. It’s a real find, ifyou don’t mind waiting.

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El Pollo 1746 1st Ave between E 90th and 91ststs t212/996-7810. For a quickbite that’s both tasty and cheaptry the Peruvian-style rotisseriechicken that’s dusted with spicesand set to cook over a spit.Bring your own wine.

Elaine’s 1703 2nd Ave between E 88th and89th sts t212/534-8103. Oncefavored by Woody Allen andNew York’s elite, this UpperEast Side literary spot stillmanages to draw the oddcelebrity.The pricey Italian foodis fine, but most go for theoccasional sighting.

Guastavino’s 409 E 59th St between 1st and Yorkaves t212/980-2455. Thismagnificent, soaring spaceunderneath the QueensboroBridge is a hot-spot for beautifulpeople who come to drinkflirtinis and choose from adizzying array of seafood dishes.Book upstairs for a quieter meal.

Heidelburg 1648 2nd Ave between E 85th and86th sts t212/628-2332. Theatmosphere here is mittel-European kitsch, withgingerbread trim andwaitresses inAlpinegoatherdcostumes. Butthe food is thereal deal,featuringexcellent liverdumpling soup,Bauernfrühstückomelets, andpancakes (bothsweet andpotato).

L’Absinthe 227 E 67th St between 2nd and 3rdaves t212/794-4950. Fine Frenchfood served in a yellow-huedsetting with etched glass. Itsatmosphere and fare are perfectfor a romantic night out.

Mocca 1588 2nd Ave between E 82nd and83rd sts t212/734-6470. Yorkvillerestaurant serving heartyportions of Hungarian comfortfood – schnitzel, cherry soup,goulash, and chicken paprikash,among others. Moderatelypriced, but be sure to comehungry.

Sala Thai 1718 2nd Ave between E 89th and90th sts t212/410-5557. Pleasantdecor and good servicedistinguish the best Thairestaurant in the neighborhood,which serves creativecombinations of hot and spicyThai food for about $15 a head.

Wu Liang Ye 215 E 86th St between 2nd and 3rdaves t212/534-8899. Theexcellent, authentic Szechuanmenu here features dishesyou’ve never seen before, and, ifyou like spicy food, you will notbe disappointed.

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BarsAmerican Trash1471 1st Ave between E 76th and 77thsts t212/988-9008. Self-styled“professional drinkingestablishment” has a friendlybarstaff, a pool table, a sing-a-long jukebox, and a happy hourdedicated to getting you there.

The Cocktail Room 334 E 73rd St between 1st and 2ndaves t212/988-6100. Fancy bar,with couches, dim lighting, anda modish 1960s theme. Popularwith singles and groups who goto lounge on the couches in theback, The Cocktail Room throbson weekends.

Hi-Life 1340 1st Ave at E 77nd St t212/249-3600. A cozy bar/restaurant thatserves an odd combination ofclassic American food andcocktails and sushi. Good pricesand excellent service.

Metropolitan Museum of Art 1000 5th Ave at E 82nd St t212/535-7710. It’s hard to imagine a moreromantic spot to sip a glass ofwine, whether on the CantorRoof Garden (open only inwarm weather), enjoying one ofthe best views in the city, or onthe Great Hall Balcony listening

to live chambermusic (Fri andSat 5–8.30pm).

Subway Inn 143 E 60th St atLexington Avet212/223-8929.A neighborhoodanomaly, thisdownscale dive

bar is great for a late-afternoonbeer – and the perfect retreatafter a visit to Bloomingdale’sjust across the street.

Clubs and musicvenues

Café Carlyle The Carlyle Hotel, 35 E 76th St atMadison Ave t212/570-7175. Thisstalwart venue is home to bothBobby Short and Woody Allen,who plays his clarinet with hisjazz band here on Mondaynights ($75 cover). Other showsrun $50, and all shows are free ifyou book a table for dinner. Setsare at 8.45pm and 10.45pmnightly.

Chicago City Limits1105 1st Ave at E 61st St t212/888-5233. New York’s oldestimprovisation theater plays onecomedy show nightly. ClosedTues.Admission is $20, $8 onSun.

Comic Strip Live1568 2nd Ave between E 81st and82nd sts t212/861-9386.Thefamed showcase draws stand-upcomics going for the big time.Three shows Fri & Sat. Cover$12–17, $12-drink minimum.

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The Upper West Side The Upper West Side has traditionally exuded a moreunbuttoned vibe than its counterpart across CentralPark. While over the years it has seen its share of strug-gling actors, writers, opera singers, and the like movein, there is plenty of money in evidence, especially in thedazzling turn-of–the-nineteenth-century apartmentbuildings along the lower stretches of Central ParkWest and Riverside Drive, and at Lincoln Center, NewYork’s palace of culture, but this is less true as youmove north. At its top end, marked at the edge by themonolithic Cathedral of St John the Divine, liesMorningside Heights, home to Columbia University onthe edge of Harlem.

Lincoln Center for thePerforming ArtsW 65th St at the intersection ofBroadway and Columbus Ave. Amarble assembly of buildings putup in the early 1960s on the siteof some of the city’s worst slumsthat now hosts New York’s mostprestigious arts performances.Home to the world-classMetropolitan Opera, the NewYork Philharmonic, and to a hostof other smaller companies, thecenter is worth seeing even ifyou don’t catch a performance.

At the center of the complex,the Metropolitan Opera Houseis an impressive marble andglass building, with murals byMarc Chagall behind each ofits high front windows.Flanking the Met stand AveryFisher Hall and Philip Johnson’s

spare and elegant New YorkState Theater. Informative one-hour historical tours ($12.50,students $9, seniors $9;t212/875-5350 to reserve)leave daily from 10am to4.30pm from the mainconcourse under the Center.

The Dakota Building1 W 72nd St at Central Park West. Sonamed because at the time of itsconstruction in 1884 its locationwas considered as remote as theDakota Territory.This grandioseGerman Renaissance-stylemansion, with turrets, gables,and other odd details, was builtto persuade wealthy NewYorkers that life in an apartmentcould be just as luxurious as in aprivate house. Over the years,celebrity tenants have included

Lauren Bacall andLeonard Bernstein,yet the best-knownresidents of theDakota were JohnLennon and his wifeYoko Ono (who stilllives here). It wasoutside the Dakota,on the night ofDecember 8, 1980,� T H E M E T R O P O L I T A N O P E R A , L I N C O L N C E N T E R

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▲American Museum ofNatural History andHayden Planetarium

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79th StreetBoat Basin

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RESTAURANTSBoat Basin CaféCafé con LecheCafé des ArtistesCafé LuxembourgCafé MozartCalle OchoDead PoetDock’s Oyster BarDublin House Tap RoomEdgar’s CaféFine & SchapiroGennaroGood Enough to EatHunan ParkHungarian Pastry ShopLa CaridadOuestPicholineShark BarTerrace in the SkyTime OutTom’s RestaurantWest End Café

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that the ex-Beatle wasshot by a man whoprofessed to be one ofhis greatest admirers.

The New-YorkHistorical Society2 W 77th St at Central ParkWest Tues–Sun 10am–6pm;suggested donation $8,students $5, under 12 freet212/873-3400,wwww.nyhistory.org. Oftenoverlooked, the New-YorkHistorical Society is more amuseum of American than NewYork history. Its permanentcollection of books, prints, andportraits includes the work ofnaturalist James Audubon; abroad sweep of nineteenth-century American painting,principally portraiture andHudson River Schoollandscapes; and such diverseitems as the original LouisianaPurchase document and thecorrespondence between AaronBurr and Alexander Hamiltonthat led up to their duel.

The American Museum ofNatural History and theHayden PlanetariumCentral Park West at W 79th St; daily10am–5.45pm suggested donation$12, students $9, children $7; IMAXfilms, Hayden Planetarium, & specialexhibits extra t212/769-5100,wwww.amnh.org.This elegantgiant fills four blocks with a

strange architectural melange ofheavy Neoclassical and rusticRomanesque styles that wasbuilt in several stages, the firstby Calvert Vaux and Jacob WreyMould in 1872.The museumboasts 32 million items ondisplay, superb nature dioramasand anthropological collections,interactive and multimediadisplays, and an awesomeassemblage of bones, fossils, andmodels.Top attractions rangefrom the Dinosaur Halls to theHall of Biodiversity, whichfocuses on both the ecologicaland evolutionary aspects ofnature. Other delights includethe massive totems in the Hallof African Peoples, thetaxidermical marvels in NorthAmerican Mammals (includinga vividly staged bull moosefight), and the two thousandgems in the Hall of Meteorites.

Across from the Hall ofBiodiversity lies the new Hall ofPlanet Earth, a multimediaexploration of how the earth

works, with displayson a wide variety ofsubjects such as theformation of planets,underwater rockformation, platetectonics, and carbondating.Thecenterpiece of theroom is the DynamicEarth Globe, wherevisitors seated below

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the globe are able to watch theearth via satellite go through itsfull rotation, getting as close aspossible to the views astronautssee from outer space.

Housed inside a metal andglass sphere 87 feet in diameter,the Hayden Planetarium screensa visually impressive forty-minute 3D film,“Passport to theUniverse,” in addition to theponderous “The Search for Life:Are We Alone?” narrated byHarrison Ford (both screenedthroughout the day during openhours; $22, students $16.50, andchildren $13). For a head-trip ofa different sort, check out SonicVision (Fri & Sat; 7.30pm,8.30pm, 9.30pm, and 10.30pm;$15), a “digitally animatedalternative music show,” whichfeatures groovy overheadgraphics and songs by bandssuch as Radiohead andColdplay mixed by spin masterMoby.

Children’s Museum ofManhattan212 W 83rd St at Broadway, Wed–Sun10am–5pm; $7 T212/721-1234,Wwww.cmom.org. This delightfulfive-story space offers interactiveexhibits that stimulate learningin a fun, relaxed environmentfor kids (and babies) of all ages.

The Dr Seuss exhibit and thebook-filled storytelling room areparticular winners.

Riverside Park and RiversideDriveOne of only five designatedscenic landmarks in New YorkCity, Riverside Park runs northalong the Hudson River andWest Side Highway from 72ndStreet to West 155th Street. Notas imposing or spacious asCentral Park, it was designed bythe same team of architects,Olmsted and Vaux, who settledon its English pastoral style aftersome debate. Following the park

north, Riverside Drive isflanked by palatialtownhouses and multi-story apartment buildingsput up in the early partof the twentieth centuryby those not quite richenough to compete withthe folks on FifthAvenue.A number ofarchitecturally distinctivehistoric landmarkdistricts lie along it,particularly in the mid-70s, mid-80s, andlow-100s.

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The Cathedral of St John theDivineAmsterdam Ave at W 112th St,t212/316-7540. The largestchurch in the United States, theCathedral of St John the Divinerises up with a solid kind ofmajesty.A curious mix ofRomanesque and Gothic styles,the church was begun in 1892,though building stopped withthe outbreak of war in 1939 andonly sporadically resumed in theearly 1990s; today, it’s still barelytwo-thirds finished. Oncompletion (unlikely before2050), it will be the largestcathedral in the world, its floorspace – 600ft long, and 320ftwide at the transepts – bigenough to swallow Notre Dameand Chartres whole.

Inside, note the intricatelycarved wood Altar for Peace, thePoets Corner (with the names ofAmerican poets carved into itsstone block floor), and an altarhonoring AIDS victims.Theamazing stained-glass windowsinclude scenes from Americanhistory among Biblical ones.Public guided tours are givenTuesday through Saturday at11am and Sunday at 1pm (oneone-hour tour per day); $5,student and seniors $4T212/932-7347 for information.

Columbia UniversityBetween Broadway and MorningsideDrive from 114th to 120th sts. Theepicenter of MorningsideHeights, Columbia University’scampus fills 36 acres. Establishedin 1754, it is the oldest and mostrevered university in the city andone of the most prestigiousacademic institutions in thecountry.After it moved frommidtown in 1897, McKim,Mead, and White led the way indesigning its new ItalianRenaissance-style campus, withthe domed and colonnaded LowMemorial Library at center stage.Tours (T212/854-4900) of thecampus leave regularly Mondayto Friday during the school yearfrom the information office onthe corner of 116th Street andBroadway.

ShopsAcker, Merrall & Condit 160 W 72nd St between Broadway andColumbus Ave t212/787-1700. Theoldest wine store in America,founded in 1820, it boasts a verywide selection from the US,especially California.

Barney Greengrass 541 Amsterdam Ave between W 86thand 87th sts t212/724-4707.

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Around since time began, thisstellar West Side deli (andrestaurant), the self-styled“Sturgeon King,” is celebratedfor its smoked salmon section.The cheese blintzes are tasty, too.

Blades, Board & Skate 120 W 72nd St between Broadway andColumbus Ave t212/787-3911. Fortrips to nearby Central orRiverside parks, rent or buyyour rollerblades, snowboards,and the like here.

Citarella 2135 Broadway at W 75th Stt212/874-0383. Famous for itsartistic window displays, thelargest and most varied fish andseafood store in the city, nowoffers gourmet baked goods,cheese, coffee, meat, and preparedfood. It has a wonderful barserving prepared oysters, clams,and the like to take away.

H&H Bagels 2239 Broadway at W 80th St t1-800/NY-BAGEL. Some of the bestbagels in New York are sold atH & H, where they are said tobake over 50,000 a day and shipthem worldwide.

Maxilla & Mandible 451 Columbus Ave between W 81st and82nd sts t212/724-6173. Animaland human bones for collectors,scientists, or the curious.Worth avisit even if you’re not in themarket for a perfectly preservedmale skeleton.

Murder Ink 2486 Broadway between W 92nd and93rd sts t212/362-8905. The firstbookstore to specialize inmystery and detective fiction inthe city, and the purportedlyoldest mystery bookstore in theworld. It claims to stock everymurder, mystery, or suspensetitle in print – and plenty out.

Zabar’s 2245 Broadway at W 80th Stt212/787-2000. A veritableUpper West Side institution, thisbeloved family store offers aquintessential taste of New York:bagels, lox, all manner ofschmears, not to mention adizzying selection of gourmetgoods at reasonable prices.

CafésCafé Mozart 154 W 70th St between Central Park Wand Columbus Ave T212/595-9797.This faded old Viennesecoffeehouse and Upper WestSide institution serves rich tortesand apple strudel, among dozensof other cavity-inducing items.

Edgar’s Café 255 W 84th St between West End Aveand Broadway T212/496-6126. Apleasant coffeehouse with good(though expensive) desserts andlight snacks, great hot cider in thewinter, and well-brewed coffeesand teas all the time. Named forEdgar Allen Poe, who at one timelived a block or so farther east.

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Hungarian Pastry Shop 1030 Amsterdam Ave between W110th and 111th sts T212/866-4230.This simple coffeehouse is afavorite with ColumbiaUniversity students and faculty.You can sip your espresso andread all day if you like – theonly problem is choosingamong the pastries, cookies, andcakes, all made on the premises.

RestaurantsBoat Basin Café W 79th St at the Hudson River withaccess through Riverside Parkt212/496-5542. Open Maythrough September, thisinexpensive outdoor restaurantwith long views of the HudsonRiver serves standard burgerswith fries, hot dogs, sandwiches,and some more serious entreeslike grilled salmon. On weekendafternoons live music adds tothe ambience.

Café con Leche 424 Amsterdam Ave at W 80th Stt212/595-7000. Cheap and verycheerful, this great neighborhoodDominican restaurant servesfantastic roast pork, rice andbeans, and some of the hottestchilli sauce you’ve ever tasted.

Café des Artistes 1 W 67th St between Columbus Ave andCentral Park West t212/877-3500.Charming, fantastical restaurantwith richly hued murals and aninternational menu; its $25 prixfixe lunch is a good alternativefor those on a budget.

Café Luxembourg 200 W 70th St between Amsterdam andWest End aves t212/873-7411.Trendy Lincoln Center area bistrothat packs in a self-consciouslyhip crowd to enjoy its first-rate,

yet moderately priced,contemporary French food.

Calle Ocho 446 Columbus Ave between W 81stand 82nd sts t212/873-5025. Verytasty Latino fare, such as cevichesand chimchuri steak with yuccafries, is served in animmaculately designedrestaurant with a hopping bar,whose mojitos are as potent asany in the city.

Dock’s Oyster Bar 2427 Broadway between W 89th and90th sts t212/724-5588. Thispopular uptown seafooder has araw bar with great mussels.TheUpper West Side is the originaland tends to have the homieratmosphere – though both canbe noisy and service can beslow. Reservationsrecommended on weekends.

Fine & Schapiro 138 W 72nd St between Broadway andColumbus Ave t212/877-2721.Longstanding Jewish deli that’sopen for lunch and dinner andserves delicious old-fashionedkosher fare – an experiencethat’s getting harder to find inNew York. Great chicken soup.

Gennaro 665 Amsterdam Ave between W 92ndand 93rd sts t212/665-5348. Anoutpost of truly great Italianfood that is well worth theinevitable wait. Standoutsinclude a warm potato,mushroom, and goat cheese tartand braised lamb shank in redwine.The desserts are alsoimmaculate. Dinner only.

Good Enough to Eat 483 Amsterdam Ave between W 83rd and84th sts t212/496-0163. CutesyUpper West Side restaurant knownfor its cinnamon-swirl French

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toast, meatloaf, and excellentweekend brunch specials.

Hunan Park 235 Columbus Ave between W 70thand 71st sts t212/724-4411. Agood, inexpensive option a fewblocks from Lincoln Center,Hunan Park serves some of thebest Chinese food on the UpperWest Side in a large, crowdedroom, with typically quickservice and moderate prices.Trythe spicy noodles in sesamesauce and the dumplings.

La Caridad2199 Broadway at W 78th Stt212/874-2780. Something of anUpper West Side institution, thisno-frills eatery doles outplentiful and cheap Cuban-Chinese food to hungry diners(the Cuban is better than theChinese). Bring your own beer,and expect to wait in line.

Ouest 2315 Broadway between W 83rd and84th sts t212/580-8700. ThisNew American restaurant hasearned a loyal following for itsceleb spottings and exceptionalgourmet comfort food such asbacon-wrapped meatloaf withwild mushroom gravy.There’salso a $26 three-course pre-theater menu served Mon–Fri5–6.30pm.

Picholine 35 W 64th St betweenBroadway and CentralPark West t212/724-8585. This priceyFrench fave ispopular with theLincoln Centeraudiences andthose with apenchant for well-executed Gallicfare, such ashoseradish-crusted

salmon and white John Doryfish in chanerelle sauce. Itscheese plate is to die for.Jackets required.

Terrace in the Sky 400 W 119th St between AmsterdamAve and Morningside Drive t212/666-9490. Weather permitting, havecocktails on the terrace beforeenjoying harp music, marvelousMediterranean fare, and thegreat views of MorningsideHeights from this romantic yetpricey uptown spot.

Tom’s Restaurant2880 Broadway, at 112th StT212/864-6137. The greasy-spoondiner made famous by Seinfeldis no great shakes, but does havepop culture appeal, and greatbreakfast deals (under $6).

BarsAbbey Pub 237 W 105th St between Broadwayand Amsterdam Ave t212/222-8713.Half a century old, the Abbey isstill charming locals andstudents alike with its stained-glass windows and overheardlearned conversations whisperedin wooden booths. Not tomention the cheap beer.

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Dead Poet 450 Amsterdam Ave between W 81stand 82nd sts t212/595-5670. You’llbe waxing poetical and thendropping down dead if you stayfor the duration of this sweetlittle bar’s happy hour: it lastsfrom 4pm to 8pm and offersdraft beer at $3 a pint.Thebackroom has armchairs, books,and a pool table.

Dublin House Tap Room 225 W 79th St between Broadway andAmsterdam Ave t212/874-9528.This lively Upper West SideIrish pub pours a very niceBlack & Tan, though it tends tobe overrun at night by theyoung, inebriated, and rowdy.

Shark Bar 307 Amsterdam Ave between W 74thand 75th sts t212/874-8500.Comfortable, mirrored African-American bar with great soulfood and a beat to go with it.There is, however, no dancingpermitted.

Time Out 349 Amsterdam Ave between W 76thand 77th sts t212/362-5400. Whatan anomaly… a sports bar with apleasant atmosphere! Goodselection of cheap beers and pubgrub, friendly bonhomie, and 24screens of sporting entertainment.$10 cover for special events.

West End Café 2911 Broadway between W 113th and114th sts t212/662-8830. Oncethe hangout of Jack Kerouac,Allen Ginsberg, and the Beats inthe 1950s.While it still servesthe student crowd from thenearby university, the West Endhas had several makeovers sincethe days of the Beats, and stand-up comedy and karaoke havereplaced Howl as theperformances of choice.

Clubs and musicvenuesBeacon Theatre 2124 Broadway at W 74th Stt212/496-7070. This beautifullyrestored theater caters to a moremature rock crowd, hostingeverything from Tori Amos toRadiohead.Tickets are $25–100and are sold throughTicketmaster.

Smoke 2751 Broadway at W 106th Stt212/864-6662,wwww.smokejazz.com. This UpperWest Side joint is a realneighborhood treat. Sets start at9pm, 11pm, & 12.30am; there’sa retro happy hour with $4cocktails and $2 beers, Mon–Sat5–8pm. Cover $16–25 Fri &Sat.

Stand Up New York 236 W 78th St at Broadwayt212/595-0850,wwww.standupny.com. This UpperWest Side club is a forum forestablished acts and a great placeto see amateurs strut their stuff.Two nightly shows. Cover$5–15, more on weekends, witha two-drink minimum.

Symphony Space 2537 Broadway at W 95th Stt212/864-5400,wwww.symphonyspace.org. One of New York’sprimary performing arts centers.Symphony Space regularlysponsors short story readings, aswell as classical and world musicperformances, but it is perhapsbest known for its free, twelve-hour performance marathons,the uninterrupted reading ofJames Joyce’s Ulysses everyBloomsday (June 16).

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Harlem and aboveThe most famous black community in America, Harlemwas inarguably the bedrock of twentieth-century blackculture. Though it acquired a notoriety for street crimeand urban deprivation, it is in fact a far less dangerousneighborhood than its reputation suggests, especially inlight of solid improvement efforts of the last decade.Visitors to Harlem’s main thoroughfares, 125th Street,Adam Clayton Powell Jr Boulevard, Lenox Avenue, or116th Street, should have no problem, though bear inmind that, practically speaking, Harlem’s sights are toospread out to amble between. Spanish Harlem – ElBarrio – has an undeniably rougher edge, but reasonsfor visiting are far fewer than for Harlem proper. Northof Harlem, starting from West 145th Street or so, liesWashington Heights, home to the largest Dominicanpopulation in the United States, as well as New YorkCity’s most dangerous and crime-ridden neighborhood.And while its main points of interest, namely theCloisters, are safely accessed during the daylighthours, it’s advisable to stay clear after dark.

125th Street 125th Street between Broadwayand Fifth Avenue is the workingcenter of Harlem and its main

commercial and retail drag.TheAdam Clayton Powell, Jr StateOffice Building on the cornerof Seventh Avenue provides a

looming concretelandmark. Commissionedin 1972, it replaced aconstellation of businessesthat included Elder LouisMichaux’s bookstore, oneof Malcolm X’s mainrallying points.The HarlemRiots in 1935 marked theurban decline of thisthoroughfare and the onceprosperous community ofHarlem. Some of its morecelebrated spots, such asthe Apollo Theater, are stillgoing strong, and over thepast decade there havebeen significantrevitalization efforts,including the establishmentof former US PresidentBill Clinton’s offices.� 1 2 5 T H S T R E E T

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The Apollo Theater 253 W 125th St; t212/531-5300 forgeneral information and tours;wwww.apollotheater.com. From the1930s to the 1970s, the ApolloTheater was the center of blackentertainment in New YorkCity and northeastern America.Almost all the great figures ofjazz and blues played here alongwith singers, comedians, anddancers. Past winners of itsfamous Amateur Night – nowtelevised – have included EllaFitzgerald, Billie Holiday, theJackson Five, Sarah Vaughan,Marvin Gaye, and James Brown.Today, the theater continues tolaunch careers and hostestablished performers.

The Studio Museum inHarlem144 W 125th St between Lenox and7th aves Wed–Fri & Sun noon–6pm,Sat 10am–6pm $7, students $3, freeon the first Sat of every montht212/864-4500,wwww.studiomuseum.org. The Studio Museumin Harlem has over 60,000square feet of exhibition spacededicated to showcasingcontemporary African-American painting,photography, and sculpture.Thepermanent collection isdisplayed on a rotating basis andincludes works by HarlemRenaissance-era photographerJames Van Der Zee. Skillfulcurating, lectures, authorreadings, and musicperformances make this a greatcommunity arts center.

Mount Morris Park HistoricalDistrict and ParkCentered on Lenox Avenuebetween W 118th and 124thstreets, this area, which is full ofmagnificent, well-preserved,four- to five-story brownstonesand quiet streets, was one of the

first to attract residentialdevelopment after the elevatedrailroads were constructed.Theneighborhood contains fiveexquisite churches alone, thelargest and most well-knownbeing St Martin’s EpiscopalChurch, which has beendesignated a city landmark, andin 1971, the neighborhood wasadded to the National Registerof Historic Places.Adjacent is themanicured Mount Morris Park,also known as Marcus GarveyPark, first created in the 1880s.

The Schomburg Center forResearch in Black Culture515 Lenox Ave at W 135th StMon–Wed noon–8pm, Thurs & Frinoon–6pm free t212/491-2200,wwww.nypl.org/research/sc. TheNew York Public Library’sDivision of Negro Literature,History, and Prints was createdin 1926 by Arthur Schomburg, abibliophile and historianobsessed with documentingblack culture. He acquired over10,000 manuscripts, photos, andartifacts, and, after his death, thecenter has become the world’spre-eminent research facility for

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the study of black history andculture. Further enriching thesite are the ashes of poetLangston Hughes, perhaps mostfamously known for penningThe Negro Speaks of Rivers. Thepoem inspired the “cosmogram”Rivers, a mosaic that graces oneof the halls.

Abyssinian Baptist Church132 W 138th St off Adam Clayton PowellJr Blvd t212/862-7474. With itsroots going back to 1808, thischurch houses one of the oldest(and biggest) Protestantcongregations in the country. Inthe 1930s, its pastor, ReverendAdam Clayton Powell Jr, whohelped develop what he called “a

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church for the masses,” wasinstrumental in forcing the mostlywhite-owned, white-workforcestores of Harlem to employ theblacks whose patronage ensuredthe stores’ economic survival. It’sworth a trip to the Gothic andTudor house of worship for itsrevival-style Sunday morningservices and gut-busting choir.

Strivers’ Row On W 138th and 139th sts(between Adam Clayton PowellJr and Frederick Douglassboulevards), Strivers’ Rowcomprises 130 of the finestblocks of Renaissance-influenced row houses inManhattan. Commissioned in1891 during a housing boom,

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this dignified developmentwithin the burgeoning blackcommunity came to be themost desirable place forambitious professionals to resideat the turn of the nineteenthcentury – hence its name.

Museo del Barrio1230 5th Ave at E 104th St Wed–Sun11am–5pm suggested donation $6,students $4 t212/831-7272,wwww.elmuseo.org. Literallytranslated as “the neighborhoodmuseum,” Museo del Barrio wasfounded in 1969.Although theemphasis remains largely PuertoRican, the museum embracesthe whole of Latin America andnearby island cultures. Relicsfrom their civilization includeintricately carved vomitingsticks (used to purify the bodywith the hallucinogen cohobabefore sacred rites) and three-pointed fertility stones. Duringthe summer months themuseum hosts a popular concertseries.

The Morris–Jumel Mansion65 Jumel Terrace at W 160th Stbetween Amsterdam and Edgecombeaves, Wed–Sun 10am–4pm; $3,students $2 t212/923-8008. This1765 mansion, the oldest housein Manhattan, features proudGeorgian outlines and a Federalportico and served briefly as

GeorgeWashington’sheadquarters,before it fellto the British.Later, winemerchantStephen Jumelbought themansion andrefurbished itfor his wifeEliza, formerly

a prostitute and his mistress. Onthe top floor, you’ll find amagnificently fictionalizedaccount of her “scandalous” life.

The Cloisters Museum Fort Tryon Park Tues–Sun9.30am–5.15pm, closes 4.45pmNov–Feb suggested donation $12,students $7 t212/923-3700,wwww.metmuseum.org. Takesubway #A to 190th St–FtWashington Avenue to find thisreconstructed monasticcomplex, which houses the pickof the Metropolitan Museum’smedieval collection. Most prizedamong its collection are theUnicorn Tapestries, sevenelaborate panels thought to havebeen created in the latethirteenth century. in France orBelgium. Much mysterysurrounds the work, however,and no one knows for surewhere they came from or whocommissioned them.Among theCloister’s larger artifacts are amonumental Romanesque hallmade up of French remnantsand a frescoed SpanishFuentiduena chapel, boththirteenth century.At the centerof the museum is the CuxaCloister from a twelfth-centuryBenedictine monastery in theFrench Pyrenees; its capitals arebrilliant works of art, carvedwith weird, self-devouringgrotesque creatures.

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Restaurants

Amy Ruth’s 113 W 116th St between Lenox and7th aves t212/280-8779. Thehoney-dipped fried chicken isreason enough to travel to thiscasual family restaurant inHarlem. Keep in mind that theplace gets especially busy afterchurch on Sundays.

Bayou308 Lenox Ave, between W 125th and126th sts T212/426-3800. Go tothis upscale New Orleans spotfor good shrimp and okra gumbo($5 cup) or crawfish etouffee($14.95). It gets the dishes right.

Copeland’s 547 W 145th St between Broadwayand Amsterdam Ave t212/234-2357.Soul food at good prices fordinner or Sunday Gospelbrunch, with a more reasonablypriced cafeteria next door.Trythe Louisiana gumbo. Live jazzon Fri and Sat nights.

Londel’s2620 8th Ave,between 139th and140th sts T 212/234-6114.A littlesoul food, a little Cajun, a littleSouthern-fried food.This is anattractive down-home placewhere you can eat upscale itemslike steakDiane or morecommon treatssuch as friedchicken ($14);either way,follow it upwith somesweet potatopie. Jazz andR&B on Fri &Sat evenings at8pm and10pm.

Oscar’s BBQ1325 5th Ave, at 111th St T212/996-1212. This convivial BBQ jointserves some of the best pulledBBQ pork sandwiches ($7) inNew York and is great forweekend brunch.

Sylvia’s Restaurant328 Lenox Ave between W 126th and127th sts t212/996-0660. Sofamous that Sylvia herself hasher own package food line, thisis Harlem’s premier soul foodlandmark.While some find thebarbecue sauce too tangy, thefried chicken is exceptional andthe candied yams are justlycelebrated.Also famous for theSunday Gospel brunch, but beprepared for a long wait.

Bars Lenox Lounge 288 Lenox Ave at W 125th Stt212/427-0253,wwww.lenoxlounge.com. Entertaining Harlem sincethe 1930s, this renovated historicjazz lounge has an over-the-topArt Deco interior (check outthe Zebra Room).Three setsnightly at 9pm, 10.45pm, &12.30am. Cover $15, with aone-drink minimum.

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The Outer BoroughsNew York City doesn’t end with Manhattan. There arefour other boroughs to explore: Brooklyn, Queens, TheBronx, and Staten Island. They cover an enormousarea and you’ll naturally want to pick your attractionscarefully. Nevertheless, the outer boroughs not onlyinclude some of New York City’s must-see sights – theBronx Zoo, Coney Island, the Esplanade of BrooklynHeights – but also some of the city’s best food, found inits vibrant ethnic neighborhoods.

Brooklyn HeightsFrom Manhattan, simply walkover the Brooklyn Bridge (seep.81) and emerge in one ofNew York City’s most beautiful,historic, and covetedneighborhoods. Possessing littlein common with the rest of theborough, this peaceful, tree-lined enclave was settled byfinanciers from Wall Street andremains exclusive. Such notedliterary figures as TrumanCapote,Tennessee Williams, andNorman Mailer lived here.

Make sure you take in theEsplanade, a boardwalk withterrific views of lowerManhattan, the river, and theBrooklyn Bridge which spans it.To reach the Heights take the#2 or #3 train to Clark Street.

New York Transit Museum Tues–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat & Sunnoon–5pm; $5, children & seniors $3T718/243-3060, Wwww.mta.nyc.ny.us/mta/museum. Housed in anabandoned 1930s subwaystation, this recently renovated

museum offers morethan one hundred years’worth of transportationhistory and memorabilia,including antiqueturnstiles and more thantwenty restored subwaycars and buses datingback to around 1900.The kid-friendly exhibitsare major draws.Take the#2, #3, #4, #5, or #Ftrains to Borough Hall.

The Brooklyn Museumof Art200 Eastern Parkway; Wed–Fri10am–5pm, Sat & Sun11am–6pm, first Sat of everymonth 11am–11pm $6,students $3 t718/638-5000,wwww.brooklynart.org. Oneof the largest museumsin the country, the� E G Y P T I A N A R T A T T H E B R O O K L Y N M U S E U M

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Brooklyn Museum boasts 1.5million objects and five floors ofexhibits.The permanentcollection includes Egyptian,Classical, and Ancient MiddleEastern Art;Arts of Africa, thePacific, and the Americas;Decorative Arts; Costumes andTextiles; Painting, Sculpture,Prints, Drawings, andPhotography; and 28 evocativeperiod rooms, ranging from anearly American farmhouse to a

nineteenth-century Moorishcastle. Look in on the Americanand European Painting andSculpture galleries on the topfloor, which progress fromeighteenth-century and bucolicpaintings by members of theHudson River School to worksby Winslow Homer and JohnSinger Sargent to pieces byCharles Sheeler and GeorgiaO’Keeffe.A handful of paintingsby European artists – Degas,

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Cézanne,Toulouse-Lautrec,Monet, among others – are alsodisplayed, and although nothinghere approaches their finestwork, the stellar Rodin Gallerycontains some of his bestsculpture.Take the #2 or #3train to Eastern Parkway.

Brooklyn Botanic Garden1000 Washington Ave April–SeptTues–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat & Sun10am–6pm Oct–March Tues–Fri8am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun10am–4.30pm $5, students $3, freeTues & Sat before noon t718/623-7200,wwww.bbg.org. This is oneof the most enticing park spacesin the city and a relaxing placeto unwind after a couple ofhours in the museum next door.Though smaller, it is moreimmediately likeable than itsmore celebrated cousin in theBronx (see p.192). Some 12,000plants from around the worldoccupy 52 acres of manicuredterrain. Sumptuous, but notoverplanted, it offers a RoseGarden, Japanese Garden, aShakespeare Garden, theCelebrity Path (a winding walkstudded with leaf-shapedplaques that honor Brooklyn’sfamous), and some delightfullawns draped with weepingwillows and beds of floweringshrubs.A conservatory housesamong other things thecountry’s largest collection ofbonsai, and a gift shop stocks awide array of exotic plants,bulbs and seeds.Take the #2 or#3 train to Eastern Parkway.

Prospect ParkFlatbush Ave and Prospect Park West;t718/965-8951,wwww.prospectpark.org. Energizedby their success with CentralPark (see p.153), architectsOlmsted and Vaux landscapedProspect Park in the early

1860s, completing it just as thefinishing touches were beingput to Grand Army Plazaoutside.The park’s 526 acresinclude a sixty-acre lake on theeast side, a ninety-acre openmeadow on the west side, and atwo-lane road primarilyreserved for runners, cyclists,rollerbladers, and the like.Architectural focal pointsinclude the Lefferts Homestead,an eighteenth-century colonialfarmhouse that is open, free ofcharge on weekends.TheProspect Park Zoo (April–Oct10am–5pm weekdays,10am–5.30pm weekends;Nov–March 10am–4.30pmdaily; $5, seniors $1.25, under 12$1) features a restored carouseland a lake, yet the mostrewarding element is the ninety-acre Long Meadow, which cutsthrough the center of the park.The park is accessible by #2 or#3 train to Grand Army Plaza.

Park SlopeThe western exits of ProspectPark leave you on the fringes ofthe largest landmark district inBrooklyn: Park Slope, an areasettled in the seventeenthcentury by Dutch farmers butthat blossomed after streetcarswere extended to theneighborhood in the 1870s.Once the home of Irishimmigrants and Ansonia Clockfactory workers, Park Slope thesedays is almost totally gentrified,sporting historic brownstonesinhabited mostly by youngprofessional couples with smallchildren.Walk down any quiet,tree-lined cross street to see whyPark Slope, although a bit fartherfrom Manhattan, has become aserious rival to BrooklynHeights, with some of the city’shighest property prices. Its mainstreet is Seventh Avenue, lined

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with cafés, flower shops, winestores, bakeries, and book nooks.

Coney IslandGenerations of working-classNew Yorkers came to relax atone of Brooklyn’s farthestpoints: Coney Island, which atits height accommodated100,000 people daily. Now,however, it’s one of the city’spoorer districts, and theAstroland amusement park ispeeling and rundown.Nevertheless, the boardwalk hasundergone extensive andsuccessful renovation, and, if youlike down-at-the-heel seasideresorts, there’s no better placeon earth on a summer weekend,and it’s just 45 minutes bysubway from Manhattan.Anundeniable highlight is the 75-year-old wooden roller coaster,the Cyclone.The beach, a broadswath of golden sand, isbeautiful, although it is oftencrowded on hot days and thewater might be less than clean.On the boardwalk, the NewYork Aquarium opened in 1896and is still going strong,displaying fish and invertebratesfrom the world over in itsdarkened halls, along withfrequent open-air shows ofmarine mammals (Mon–Fri10am–5pm, Sat, Sun, & holidays10am–5.30pm; $11, students $7;t718/265-3474,wwww.nyaquarium.com).Takethe #D train to ConeyIsland–Stillwell Ave.

Brighton BeachEast along the boardwalk fromConey Island, at Brooklyn’ssouthernmost end, BrightonBeach was developed in 1878and named after the resort inEngland.Today, it’s often called“Little Odessa” and is home tothe country’s largest community

of Russian Jewish émigrés, some25,000, who arrived in the 1970sfollowing a relaxation ofrestrictions on Soviet citizensentering the United States.Theneighborhood’s main drag,Brighton Beach Avenue, parallelsthe boardwalk underneath theelevated subway; the street is abustling mixture of food outlets,appetizing restaurants, and shopsselling every type of Russiansouvenir imaginable. Stay on untilthe evening if you can, whenBrighton Beach really heats upand its restaurants become anear-parody of a rowdy Russiannight out with lots of food, loudlive music, lots of glass-clinking,and free-flowing chilled vodka.Take the #B or #Q train toBrighton Beach.

WilliamsburgWith easy access to Manhattanand excellent waterfront views,it’s not hard to see whyWilliamsburg has become oneof the city’s hippestneighborhoods, its streets hometo a blossoming art scene andpopulated by scenesters wearingvintage clothes and poking inand out of the coffee, record,book, and clothes shops as wellas galleries. Many dilapidatedbuildings have been put tocreative use, and the face of theneighborhood changes daily.

After the opening of theWilliamsburg Bridge in 1903,working-class Jews seekingmore spacious living quartersflooded the neighborhood fromthe Lower East Side (see p.97).Many Jewish residents still livehere, and on Lee Avenue, orBedford Avenue, which runsparallel, Glatt Kosherdelicatessens line the streets, andsigns are written in both Yiddishand Hebrew.Take the #L trainto Bedford Ave.

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AstoriaDeveloped in 1839 and namedfor John Jacob Astor,Astoria,Queens is known for two things:filmmaking and the fact that ithas the largest concentration ofGreeks outside Greece – or so itclaims. Between 1920 and 1928,Astoria, where Paramount had itsstudios, was the capital of thesilent film era and continued toblossom until the 1930s, whenthe lure of Hollywood’s reliableweather left Astoria largelyempty. Early film stars such asRudolph Valentino and W.C.Fields performed here, and filmsfrom Beau Geste to The Wiz wereproduced here. Dedicatedcineastes should visit theAmerican Museum of theMoving Image.

Greek Astoria stretches fromDitmars Boulevard in the northdown to Broadway, and from31st Street across to SteinwayStreet. Just over 100,000 Greekslive here (together with asmaller community of Italiansand an influx of Bangladeshis,Brazilians, and Romanians) and

the evidence is on display in thelarge number of restaurants andpatisseries.Take the #N train toBroadway (Queens).

The American Museum of theMoving Image35th Ave at 36th St Wed–Fri11am–5pm, Sat & Sun 11am–6pm, Friopen until 7.30pm $10, students andseniors $7.50 t718/784-0077,wwww.ammi.org. Housed in theold Paramount complex, thisfascinating museum is devoted tothe history of film, video, andTV, and features a stellarcollection of over 1000 objects.In addition to viewing postersand kitsch movie souvenirs fromthe 1930s and 1940s, you canlisten in on directors explainingsequences from famous movies;watch fun short films made up ofwell-known clips; add your ownsound effects to movies; and seesome original sets and costumes.A wonderful, mock-Egyptianpastiche of a 1920s movie theatershows kids’ movies and TVclassics. Take the #N train to36th Street (Queens).

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MoMAQNS45-20 33rd St at Queens Blvd; Mon,Thurs, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm, Fri10am–7.45pm; $12, seniors andstudents $8.50, pay-what-you-wish Fri4–7.45pm t212/708-9400,wwww.moma.org. Until early 2005,Queens is the temporary homeof the Museum of Modern Art,while the original museum isbeing renovated on East 53rdStreet in Manhattan (see p.147).Despite its logistical hurdles, themuseum fits smartly in its newtemporary home: a well-organized prefab-stylewarehouse space. In addition tosome of its greatest sculpture andpaintings hits from thepermanent collection (by suchartists as Braque, Brancusi,Matisse), there are, during anygiven month, a generous handfulof curated exhibitions that rangefrom video installations to pencildrawings.Take the #7 train to33rd St.

Isamu Noguchi GardenMuseum 32–37 Vernon Blvd Mon 10am–5pm,Thurs & Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun11am–6pm suggested donation $5,$2.50 students and seniors t718/204-7088,wwww.noguchi.org. Whilenot in the most easily accessiblepart of Queens (take the #N or#W train to the Broadwaystation and head west to VernonStreet), the newly renovatedIsamu Noguchi GardenMuseum, set to reopen in June2004, easily repays curiosity.Themuseum is devoted to the“organic” sculptures, drawings,modern dance costumes, andAkari light sculptures of theprolific Japanese-Americanabstract sculptor Isamu Noguchi(1904–88), whose studio washere. His pieces, in stone, bronze,and wood, exhibit a sublimesimplicity.

P.S. 1 Contemporary ArtCenter 22-25 Jackson Ave at 46th St;Thurs–Mon noon–6pm $5, students$2, seniors free t718/784-2084,wwww.ps1.org. P.S. 1Contemporary Art Center isone of the oldest and biggestorganizations in the UnitedStates devoted exclusively tocontemporary art and toshowing leading emergingartists. Since it was founded in1971, this public school-turned-funky exhibition space hashosted some of the city’s mostexciting, and challenging,exhibitions.Take the #7 train to45 Rd–Courthouse Square orthe #E to 23rd St–Ely Ave.

Shea Stadium 123-01 Roosevelt Ave at 126th St;t718/507-METS,wwww.mets.com.Shea Stadium, which opened in1964, is the home of the NewYork Mets baseball team.TheBeatles played here in 1965(originating the concept of thestadium rock concert), as did theRolling Stones in 1989.Today,concerts out here, which can

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accommodate over 55,000 people,are rare but appreciated; baseballgames, on the other hand, arefrequent, and the Mets have asolid and loyal fan base.Take the#7 train to Willets Point.

Yankee Stadium 161st St and River Ave; t718/293-6000,wwww.yankees.com. YankeeStadium is home to the NewYork Yankees, 26-time WorldSeries champs.Their mostfamous player, Babe Ruth,joined the team in the spring of1920 and led them for the nextfifteen years, and it was his starquality that helped pull in thecash to build the currentstadium, still known as the“House that Ruth Built.” Inside,Ruth, Joe DiMaggio, and a hostof other baseball heroes areenshrined with plaques andmonuments, and tours(Mon–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat10am–noon, and Sun noononly; $10, children and seniors$5;t718/579-4531) take inthese, the clubhouse, press box,and dugout. No tours take placeif a day game is scheduled, andthe last tour is at noon before anight game.Take the #B, #D, or#4 train to Yankee Stadium.

Bronx ZooMain gate on Fordham Rd Mon–Fri10am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5.30pm$11, children $8, free every Wedt718/367-1010,wwww.wcs.org.The largest urban zoo in theUnited States, which firstopened its gates in 1899, housesover 4000 animals and was oneof the first institutions of itskind to realize its inhabitantsboth looked and felt better outin the open.The “Wild Asia”exhibit is an almost forty-acrewilderness through whichtigers, elephants, and deer roamrelatively free, visible from amonorail (May–Oct; $3). Lookin also on the “World ofDarkness,” which holdsnocturnal species, the“Himalayan Highlands” withendangered species such as thered panda and snow leopard,and the new “Tiger Mountain”exhibit, which allows visitorsthe opportunity to get up closeand personal with six Siberiantigers.Take the #2 or #5 trainto East Tremont Ave.

New York Botanical GardenEntrance across the road from the zoo’smain gate April–Oct Tues–Sun10am–6pm, Nov–March 10am–5pm $6,

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students $2, children $1, free Wed & Sat10am–noon t718/817-8700,wwww.nybg.org. Incorporated in1891, and in its southern reachesas wild as anything you’re likelyto see upstate. Its facilities includea museum, library, herbarium, anda research laboratory. Furthernorth, near the main entrance, aremore cultivated stretches: theEnid A. Haupt Conservatory, alandmark, turn-of-the-nineteenth-century crystal palace,showcases jungle and desertecosystems, a palm court, and afern forest, among other seasonaldisplays.The Everett Children’sAdventure Garden contains eightacres of plant and science exhibitsfor kids. In addition, there aretram tours and plant sales, andother gardens enormous enoughto wander around happily forhours.Take the #2 or #5 train toEast Tremont Avenue.

City Island On the northeast side of theBronx, City Island, a 230-acreisland and fishing community,juts out into Long Island Sound.While much of the fishing hasgone, a New England-likeatmosphere remains, despite theproximity of the urban Bronx.Most people come here for therestaurants – in fact, on aweekend night, it’s nearlyimpossible for the bus to getdown the traffic-clogged CityIsland Avenue, and therestaurants overflow with “offislanders.”You’re better offmaking the trip on a weekday;not only will the “clam diggers”(as those born on the island callthemselves) be friendlier, butyou’ll stand a better chance ofgetting something fresh whenyou order your dinner.Take the#6 train to Pelham Bay Park,then the #Bx29 bus to theIsland.

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Shops

Aaron’s 627 5th Ave between 17th and 18thsts, Brooklyn t718/768-5400. Onlythirty minutes from Manhattan,this huge store carriesdiscounted designer fashions atthe beginning of each season,not the end. Prices are markeddown about 25 percent.Takethe #R train to Prospect AveStation/4th Ave and 17th St(Brooklyn).

Century 21 472 86th St between 4rth and 5thaves, Bay Ridge, Brooklyn t718/748-3266. A department store withdesigner brands for half the cost,a favorite among budget-yet-label-conscious New Yorkers.Only snag – there are nodressing rooms.Take the #Rtrain to 86th St and 4th Ave.

Sahadi 187 Atlantic Ave between Clinton andCourt sts, Brooklyn, t718/624-4550.Fully stocked Middle Easterngrocery store selling everythingfrom Iranian pistachios tocreamy homemade hummus. #2or #3 train to Borough Hall.

Titan 25-56 31st st between Astoria Blvd and20th St, Queens t718/626-7771.Clean, Olympic-sized store forcomestible Greek goods,including imported feta cheese,yoghurts and stuffed grape leaves.#N or #W train to Astoria Blvd.

Restaurants360 360 Van Brunt St, at Wolcott St, RedHook, Brooklyn t718/246-0360.Seasonal ingredients, bohemianambiance, and a passionate chef

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make this hands-on Frenchrestaurant worth the adventureof finding it.The menu herechanges every day, but there’salways a fine selection of unusualwines. #F or #G train to CarrollStreet and walk south on CourtStreet, crossing the expressway.

Al Di Là 248 5th Ave at Carroll St, Park Slope,Brooklyn t718/783-4565. Venetiancountry cooking at its finest atthis husband-and-wife-runeatery. Standouts include beetravioli, grilled sardines,saltimbocca, and salt-baked stripedbass. Early or late, expect at leasta 45-minute wait (they don’ttake reservations), unless you areJohn Turturro, Steve Buscemi, orPaul Auster, just a few of themany regulars.Take the #F trainto Seventh Ave (Brooklyn).

Bamonte’s 32 Withers St between Lorimer St andUnion Ave, Williamsburg, Brooklynt718/384-8831. Red-saucerestaurants abound in NYC, butthis is one of the best; it’s beenserving traditional Italian dishesfor over 100 years, and charmswith its convivial family vibe.Take the #L train to Lorimer St.

Bistro St Mark’s 76 St Mark’s Ave between Flatbushand 6th aves, Park Slope, Brooklynt718/857-8600. This unassumingplace churns out a superb,completely new menu dailywith reasonable prices. Oneconstant: seafood gets thespotlight on Tuesdays. ChefJohannes Sanzin has a loyalfollowing, so book ahead. #2 or#3 train to Bergen St.

The Crab Shanty361 City Island Ave at Tier St, CityIsland, The Bronx t718/885-1810.While the decor is cheesy to saythe least, the fried clams andCajun fried fish specials at thisCity Island favorite are worththe trip.Take the #6 train toPelham Bay Park, then the#Bx29 bus to the island.

Diner 85 Broadway at Berry St, Williamsburg,Brooklyn t718/486-3077. A favewith artists and hipsters, thisgroovy eatery (in a Pullmandiner car) serves tasty Americanbistro grub (hangar steaks,roasted chicken, fantastic fries)at good prices. Stays open late,with an occasional DJ spinningtunes. #J, #M, or #Z trains toMarcy Ave or #L train toBedford Ave.

Dominick’s 2335 Arthur Ave, at 187th St, the Bronxt718/733-2807. All you couldhope for in a Belmontneighborhood Italian: great,rowdy atmosphere, communalfamily-style seating, wonderfulfood and low(ish) prices.Asthere are no menus, pay closeattention to your waiter. Stuffedbaby squid, veal parmigiana, andchicken scarpariello are standouts.#D to Fordham Rd.

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Elias Corner 24-02 31st St at 24th Ave, Astoria,Queens t718/932-1510. Pay closeattention to the seafood ondisplay as you enter, for thisAstoria institution doesn’t havemenus and the staff is not alwaysforthcoming. Serves some of thebest and freshest fish; try themarinated grilled octopus. #Nor #W to Astoria Blvd.

Grimaldi’s 19 Old Fulton St between Water andFront sts, Brooklyn Heights t718/858-4300. Delicious, thin, and crispypies that bring evenManhattanites across the water.The pizza’s cheap, and the placeis invariably crowded. #2 or #3to Clark St.

Henry’s End 44 Henry St at Cranberry St, BrooklynHeights t718/834-1776.Neighborhood bistro with awide selection of reasonablypriced seasonal dishes,appetizers, and desserts.Normally crowded, and don’texpect it to be all that cheap.Known for its wild-gamefestival in fall and winter. #2 or#3 to Clark St.

Jackson Diner 37-47 74th St between 37th andRoosevelt aves, Jackson Heights,Queens t718/672-1232. Comehere hungry and stuff yourselfsilly with amazingly light andreasonably priced Indian fare.The samosas and mango lassisare not to be missed. #7, #E,#F, #R, #V, or #G toRoosevelt Ave.

Junior’s 386 Flatbush Ave at DeKalb Ave,downtown Brooklyn t718/852-5257.Open 24 hours in a sea of lightsthat makes it worthy of Vegas,Junior’s offers everything you can

imagine, from chopped liversandwiches to ribs and meatloaf.Whatever you do, save room forthe cheesecake, which manyconsider to be NYC’s finest.#D, #R, or #N to DeKalb Ave.

Killmeyer’s Old Bavaria Inn 4254 Arthur Kill Rd at Sharrott’s Rd,Staten Island t718/984-1202. ThisBavarian establishment haseverything you might expect:men in lederhosen, a beergarden, bratwurst, potatopancakes, and large hunks ofmeat served on the bone.Entrees are large enough to feedtwo.

Mario’s 2342 Arthur Ave between 184th and186th sts, The Bronx t718/584-1188.Pricey but impressive Italiancooking, from pizzas to pastasand beyond, enticing even die-hard Manhattanites to theBelmont section of the Bronx.Supposedly the place where thescene in The Godfather in whichAl Pacino shot the double-crossing policeman was filmed.#D train to Fordham Rd.

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Moroccan Star 148 Atlantic Ave between Trenton andHenry sts, Brooklyn Heightst718/643-0800. Perhaps NewYork’s best Moroccan restaurant,offering wonderful tajines andcouscous with lamb. Entrees aregenerally around $10. #2 or #3train to Borough Hall.

Mrs Stahl’s 1001 Brighton Beach Ave at ConeyIsland Ave, Brooklyn t718/648-0210.This longstanding knishpurveyor features over twentydifferent varieties. #B or #Qtrain to Brighton Beach.

Nathan’s 1310 Surf Ave at Schweiker’s Walk,Coney Island, Brooklyn t718/946-2202. Home of the “famousConey Island hot dog,” servedsince 1916, Nathan’s is not to bemissed unless you are avegetarian. It holds an annualHot Dog Eating Contest onJuly 4. #D train to ConeyIsland–Stillwell Ave.

Odessa 11-13 Brighton Beach Ave between13th and 14th sts, Brighton Beach,Brooklyn t718/332-3223. Excellentand varied Russian menu atunbeatable prices. Dancing andlive music Fri, Sat, and Sun. #Bor #Q train to Brighton Beach.

Peter Luger’s Steak House 178 Broadway at Driggs Ave,Williamsburg, Brooklyn t718/387-7400. Catering to carnivoressince 1873, Peter Luger’s may justbe the city’s finest steakhouse.The service is surly and thedecor plain, but the porterhousesteak – the only cut served – isdivine. Cash only, and veryexpensive; expect to pay at least$60 a head. #J, #M, or #Ztrains to Marcy Ave or #L trainto Bedford Ave.

Planet Thailand 133 N 7th St between Bedford Ave andBerry St, Williamsburg, Brooklynt718/599-5758. This funky,massive restaurant serves Thaiand Japanese food at attractiveprices.The food is dependable,and there’s a DJ to ensure theparty (and sake) flows into thenight. #7 to Bedford Ave.

Primorski282 Brighton Beach Ave between 2ndand 3rd sts, Brighton Beach, Brooklynt718/891-3111. Perhaps the bestof Brighton Beach’s Russianhangouts, with a huge menu ofauthentic Russian dishes,including blintzes and stuffedcabbage, at absurdly cheapprices. Live music in theevening. #B or #Q train toBrighton Beach.

River Café 1 Water St between Furman and OldFulton sts on the East River, BrooklynHeights t718/522-5200. This eliteeating establishment, situated at

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the base of the Brooklyn Bridge,provides spectacular views ofManhattan.While dishes like thepotato-crusted oysters areexcellent, the $70 prix fixe(dinner only) is a little steep.Take the #2 or #3 to Clark St.

Teresa’s 80 Montague St between Hicks St andMontague Terrace, Brooklyn Heights,Brooklyn t718/797-3996. Largeportions of Polish homecooking – blintzes, pierogies,and the like – make this a goodlunchtime stop-off for those ontours of Brooklyn Heights. #2or #3 train to Clark St.

Tripoli 156 Atlantic Ave at Clinton St BrooklynHeights, Brooklyn,t718/596-5800.Lebanese restaurant serving fish,lamb, and vegetarian dishes for alow $10. Lamb and rice-stuffedgrape leaves are a standout. #2or #3 train to Borough Hall.

Vera Cruz 195 Bedford Ave between N 6th and N7th sts, Williamsburg, Brooklynt718/599-7914. Margaritas with abite and stick-to-your-ribsMexican food are on the menuhere. Check out the garden andkick back with the Williamsburgregulars. #L train to Bedford Ave.

BarsBohemian Hall and BeerGarden 29-19 24th Ave between 29th and30th sts, Astoria, Queens t718/721-4226. This old Czech bar is thereal deal, catering to old-timersand serving a good selection ofpilsners as well as hard-to-findbrews. In back, there’s a verylarge beer garden, completewith picnic tables, trees, burgersand sausages, and a bandshell for

polka groups. #N or #W toAstoria Blvd.

Boogaloo Bar 168 Marcy Ave between S 5th St andBroadway, Williamsburg, Brooklynt718/599-8900. This funkadeliclounge serves as a meeting-ground for experimental artists,DJs, and thirsty patrons who canchoose, among other drinks,from a selection of over thirtyrums from around the world.#J, #M, or #Z trains to MarcyAve or #L train to Bedford Ave.

Brooklyn Brewery79 N 11th St, Williamsburg, Brooklynt718/486-7422,wwww.brooklynbrewery.com. After wanderingWilliamsburg, check out thisstellar local microbrewery, whichhosts events all summer; hangout in their tasting room6–10pm Fridays or take a freetour on Saturdays noon–5pm.#L train to Bedford Ave.

Frank’s Cocktail Lounge 660 Fulton St between Hudson Ave andRockwell Place, Fort Greene, Brooklynt718/625-9339. A stone’s throwfrom the Brooklyn Academy ofMusic, this mellow bar with aclassic-to-modern R&Bjukebox comes alive at nightwhen DJs spin hip hop and theparty spreads upstairs. #A or#C to Lafayette Ave.

Galapagos 70 N 6th St between Wythe and Kentaves, Williamsburg, Brooklynt718/782-5188. Gorgeous design– this converted factory featuresplacid pools of water and elegantcandelabras – as well as excellentavant-garde movies on Sundaynights. Live music, literaryreadings, or some oddball eventmost other nights of the week.Check the website for schedule.#L train to Bedford Ave.

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The Gate 321 5th Ave at 3rd St Park Slope,Brooklyn,t718/768-4329. Anextensive array of beers andpatio seating lure Park Slopersto this roomy, congenial stapleof the Fifth Avenue bar scene.#F train to Seventh Ave(Brooklyn).

Iona 180 Grand St between Bedford andDriggs aves Williamsburg, Brooklyn,t718/384-5008. An Irish bar forthe young and the hip, Ionaprovides a calm, tasteful respitefrom the moody lighting andincestuous hip of all the otherbars around.A sweet outdoorgarden and a great selection ofbeers only add to this gem’sappeal.Take the #L train toBedford Ave.

Pete’s Candy Store709 Lorimer St between Frost andRichardson sts Williamsburg, Brooklyn,t718/302-3770. This terrific littlespot to tipple was once a realcandy store.There’s free livemusic every night, poetry onMondays, Scrabble and Bingonights, and even an organized“Stitch and Bitch” knittinggroup. Take the #L train toLorimer St.

Stinger Club 241 Grand St between Driggs andRoebling sts, Williamsburg, Brooklyn,t718/218-6662. Super-cool jointfor super-cool artists, with a pool

table, dim red lighting, and ajukebox that loves your ears. #Ltrain to Bedford Ave.

Tupelo 34-18 34th Ave at 35th St Astoria,Queens,t718/707-9588. Take yourpick of beers and enjoy the musicupstairs (DJs spinning Eightiescuts, or live local bands) at thistrendy Astoria meeting place. #Ntrain to 36th Ave.

Waterfront Ale House 155 Atlantic Ave between Clinton andHenry sts, Brooklyn Heightst718/522-3794. This inexpensiveand fun old-style pub servesgood spicy chicken wings, ribs,and a killer Key lime pie (madelocally and available only inBrooklyn). #2 or #3 toBorough Hall.

Clubs and musicvenues

Brooklyn Academy of Music 30 Lafayette St between Ashland Placeand St Felix St, Brooklyn t718/636-4100,wwww.bam.org. America’soldest performing arts academy(1859) and one of the mostdaring producers in New York –definitely worth crossing the riverfor, especially to catch the likes ofPhilip Glass. #2, #3, #4, #5, #N,or #R train to Atlantic Ave.

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HotelsAccommodation prices in NewYork City are well above thenorm for the US as a whole.Most hotels charge more than$100 a night for a double room(although bargains as low as $75a night do exist).While themajority of New York’s hotelscan be found in midtownManhattan, you may well wantto travel downtown for superiorfood and nightlife. Bookingahead is strongly advised, and atcertain times of the year –Christmas and early summerparticularly – everything is likelyto be full.

Rates in this chapter refer tothe approximate cost of a dou-ble room throughout most ofthe year; be aware that prices areoften reduced on weekends, soit’s always worth asking. Taxesare added to your hotel bill, andhotels will nearly always quoteyou the price of a room beforetax, which will add 13.25 per-cent to your bill (state tax 8.25percent, city tax 5 percent), andthere is also a $2 per night“occupancy tax.”

Below 14th Street60 Thompson 60 Thompson St betweenSpring and Broome sts t212/431-0400,wwww.60thompson.com. Designed byThomas O’Brien’s Aero Studio, this boutiqueproperty oozes sophistication and temptsguests with countless amenities, includinggourmet minibars, DVD players, and a sum-mertime rooftop lounge overlooking the SoHorooftops. All this fabulousness comes at aprice, though: $309 and up.Cosmopolitan 95 W Broadway atChambers St t1-888/895-9400 or212/566-1900,wwww.cosmohotel.com.Great TriBeCa location, with smart, well-maintained rooms at a steal of a price. With

just over a hundred rooms, it has the feel ofa bed and breakfast. $119 and up.Larchmont 27 W 11th St between 5thand 6th aves t212/989-9333,wwww.larchmont-hotel.com. This budgethotel, on a tree-lined street in GreenwichVillage, has small but nice, clean rooms.Terrific location; rooms $125 with sharedbaths; slightly more expensive on weekends.Mercer 147 Mercer St at Prince Stt212/966-6060,wwww.mercerhotel.com. Housed in a landmarkRomanesque Revival building, this hot SoHohotel has been the choice of celebs such asLeonardo DiCaprio since it opened in 1998.Some loft-like guest rooms also have mas-sive baths with 90 square feet for splashingaround, and the Mercer Kitchen garners ravereviews. $395 and up.Off SoHo Suites 11 Rivington St betweenChrystie St and Bowery t1-800/OFF-SOHO or 212/979-9808,wwww.offsoho.com. These small, apartment-style suitesare well situated for Little Italy, East Village,SoHo, and Chinatown. Very reasonable fortwo or four, the suites include fully equippedkitchen, TV, and use of laundry and fitnessroom. Rooms run from $119.Ritz-Carlton 2 West St, Battery ParkT212/344-0800,Wwww.ritzcarlton.com.The views of New York Harbor and the Statueof Liberty don’t get much better than fromthis newly minted high-rise hotel. It featuresa hopping bar, 425-square-foot rooms withsoothing muted tones – all with dazzling vis-tas and “bath butlers” to draw baths andwarm towels. Rates begin at $300.SoHo Grand 310 W Broadway at GrandSt t212/965-3000,wwww.sohogrand.com. In a great location at the edge ofvibrant SoHo, the Grand draws guests of themodel/media-star/actor variety. Its appealincludes small but stylish rooms, a good bar,restaurant, and fitness center. $389 and up.TriBeCa Grand Hotel 2 Ave of theAmericas, between White and Walker stsT1-877/519-6600 or 212/519-6600,Wwww.tribecagrand.com. Beckoning witha warm orange glow, the Church Lounge is

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25Alex HotelAlgonquinAmeritania Hotel 54Beekman TowerBroadway InnBryant Park HotelCarltonCasablancaChelseaChelsea International HostelChelsea SavoyCosmopolitanEdisonEssex HouseflatotelGershwinGramercy ParkHudsonIroquoisLarchmontLe Parker MeridienLibraryMandarin Oriental New YorkMansfieldMetroMorgansMurray Hill InnParamountPickwick ArmsPlaza HotelPortland SquareRoger SmithRoger WilliamsRoyaltonSalisburySeventeenShelburne Murray HillSouthgate TowerStanfordThirty OneThirty ThirtyThe TimeVanderbilt YMCAWW Union SquareWaldorf AstoriaWarwickWashington SquareWellingtonWestin New York at Times SquareWestparkWestside YMCAWolcottWyndham

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one of the more striking hotel public spacesand a great place to have a drink. The roomsare stylish and yet on the understated side,though each bathroom boasts a phone andbuilt-in TV. The black-clad staff is extraattentive. Off-season weekends can be aslow as $200; for most weekdays, count onrates above $350.Washington Square 103 Waverly Placeat Washington Square Park t212/777-9515,wwww.washingtonsquarehotel.com. The ideal location in the heart ofGreenwich Village is a stone’s throw from thearea’s nightlife. However, don’t be deceivedby the posh-looking lobby – the rooms aresurprisingly shabby for the price but service-able. Continental breakfast is included.Rooms from $169.

14th to 34th streetCarlton 22 E 29th St at Madison Avet1-800/542-1502 or 212/532-4100,wwww.carltonhotelny.com. A fairly well-priced, nicely modernized hotel in a BeauxArts building. Two pluses: you’re in the saferesidential area of Murray Hill, and you getroom and valet service, not often associat-ed with hotels in this price bracket. $139and up.The Chelsea Hotel 222 W 23rd Stbetween 7th and 8th aves t212/243-3700,wwww.hotelchelsea.com. One of New York’s most celebratedlandmarks, this aging Neo-Gothic buildingboasts a sensational past (see p.122). Avoidthe older rooms, and be sure to ask for arenovated one, with wood floors, log-burningfireplaces, and plenty of space for a fewextra friends. Rooms run from $175 and up.Chelsea Lodge 318 W 20th St between8th and 9th aves t212/243-4499,wwww.chelsealodge.com. Step throughthe (unmarked) door of this gem, a convertedboarding house, and you’ll be greeted withcheery Early American/Sportsman decor. The“lodge” rooms, which offer in-room showersand sinks (there’s a shared toilet down thehall), are a little small for two, but the fewdeluxe rooms are a great value and have newfull bathrooms. Rates from $105 and up.Chelsea Savoy Hotel 204 W 23rd St at7th Ave t212/929-9353,

wwww.chelseasavoynyc.com. A fewdoors from the Chelsea Hotel, the Savoy hasnone of its neighbor’s funky charm, but itsrooms, though small, are clean and nicelydecorated, and the staff is helpful. Try toavoid rooms facing the main drags outside.Rooms from $99.Gramercy Park 2 Lexington Ave at E 21stSt t212/475-4320,wwww.grammercyparkhotel.com. With a lovely location, thishotel is pleasant enough, though be sure toask for one of the new rooms; the few thathaven’t been renovated are quite tatty.Guests also get a key to the adjacent privatepark. Rates start at $185.Murray Hill Inn 143 E 30th St betweenLexington and 3rd aves t1-888/996-6376 or 212/683-6900,wwww.murrayhillinn.com. It’s easy to see why young trav-elers and backpackers line the Inn’s narrowhalls. Although the rooms are smallish, theyare air-conditioned and all have telephoneand cable TV; some also have private bath-rooms. Rates begin at $79.Roger Williams 131 Madison Ave at 31stSt t1-888/448-7788 or 212/448-7000,wwww.rogerwilliamshotel.com. At somepoint during its $2 million “boutique” renova-tion, this hotel made a turn onto Madisonand its prices shot up exponentially. Still, themellow, Scandinavian-Japanese fusionrooms and fluted zinc pillars in the lobbymake it well worth the extra bucks. Roomsstart at $199.Seventeen 225 E 17th St between 2ndand 3rd aves t212/475-2845,wwww.hotel17ny.com. Having recentlyundergone a total renovation, Seventeen’srooms now feature AC, cable TV, andphones, though they still have shared baths.It’s clean, friendly, and nicely situated on apleasant tree-lined street minutes fromUnion Square and the East Village. Ask aboutits excellent weekly rates. Rooms from $90.Thirty-One 120 E 31st St betweenLexington and Park aves t212/685-3060,wwww.hotel31.com. A Murray Hillhotel brought to you by the folks who ownSeventeen. The rooms are clean and thestreet is quiet and pleasant. Rates start at$60 with shared bath, $85 with private bath.Thirty Thirty 30 E 30th St between Parkand Madison aves t1-800/804-4480 or

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212/689-1900,wwww.thirtythirty-nyc.com. Small, welcoming budget hotel,with a few small but welcome design touch-es, like the framed black- and-white scenesof old New York in the rooms. Rooms start at$109.W Union Square 201 Park Ave S at UnionSquare t1-877/W-HOTELS or 212/253-9119,wwww.whotels.com. Located in theformer Guardian Life Building, this is reallythe only upscale hotel in the area, andboasts Todd English’s Olives restaurant, a hotbar scene, and plush neutral-toned rooms.Rates from $349.

Midtown West:34th–59th streetsAlgonquin 59 W 44th St between 5thand 6th aves t212/840-6800,wwww.algonquinhotel.com. At NewYork’s classic literary hangout (see p.136),you’ll find a resident cat named Matilde,cabaret performances, and suites with sillynames. The decor remains little changedfrom the days of Dorothy Parker and her fel-low wits, though the bedrooms have beenrefurbished to good effect and the lobbyrecently received a mini-facelift. Ask aboutsummer and weekend specials. Rates from$299.Ameritania Hotel 54 230 W 54th St atBroadway t1-800/922-0330 or 212/247-5000,wwww.nychotels.com. One of thecoolest-looking hotels in the city, with well-furnished rooms with marble bathrooms,cable TV, and CD; and there’s a bar/restau-rant off the high-tech, Neo-Classical lobby.Rooms from $129 and up.Broadway Inn 264 W 46th St betweenBroadway and 8th Ave t1-800/826-6300or 212/997-9200,wwww.broadwayinn.com. This cozy budget hotel in theheart of the Theater District stands on a slightlycharmless corner of Eighth Ave. All rooms arepleasantly decorated and have private bath-rooms and cable TV. Continental breakfast isincluded in the price and all guests get a twen-ty percent discount at the adjacent restaurant.No elevator; $129 and up.Bryant Park Hotel 40 W 40th St between5th and 6th aves t1-877

/640-9300 or 212/869-0100,wwww.bryantparkhotel.com. This hotel just offthe park shows off its edgy attitude in itsstylish rooms and the funky Cellar Bar down-stairs, filled with media people, while its sev-enty-seat screening room shows occasionalopenings. Rooms start at $325.Casablanca 147 W 43rd St between 6thAve and Broadway t1-888/9-CASABLANCA or 212/869-1212,wwww.casablancahotel.com. Moorishtiles, ceiling fans, and, of course, Rick’s Caféare all here in this unusual and understatedtheme hotel. While the feeling is 1940sMorocco, the rooms are all up-to-date; ratesfrom $189.flatotel 135 W 52nd St between 6th and7th aves t1-800/352-8683 or 212/887-9400,wwww.flatotel.com. Maybe the“flat” refers to apartments (these rooms usedto be condos, and they’re all gigantic); per-haps it has to do with the box-shaped furni-ture, but it’s a comfortable alternative in theheart of midtown. Rooms from $209 and up.Edison 228 W 47th St betweenBroadway and 8th Ave t212/840-5000,wwww.edisonhotelnyc.com. The moststriking thing about the funky 1000-roomEdison, a reasonably priced option for mid-town, is its beautifully restored Art Decolobby. The rooms, though not fancy, havebeen recently renovated. They start at $179.Hudson 356 W 58th St between 8th and9th aves t1-800/444-4786 or 212/554-6000,wwww.ianschragerhotels.com. The latest Schrager addition to NYC,this overly designed hotel features a space-age cocktail lounge, library, cavernous “cafe-teria,” and minuscule rooms, which are sig-nificantly cheaper during the week. $285and up.Iroquois 49 W 44th St between 5th and6th aves t1-800/332-7220 or 212/840-3080,wwww.iroquoisny.com. A for-mer haven for rock bands, this reinventedstuffy “boutique” hotel has comfortable,tasteful rooms with Italian marble baths anda health center, library, and a five-starrestaurant. One of the hotel’s noted visitors isimmortalized in the lounge named for him:James Dean lived here from 1950 to 1953,and some say his room (#803) still retainsan element of magic. Rooms from $345.

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Le Parker Meridien 119 W 56th Stbetween 6th and 7th aves t212/245-5000,wwww.parkermeridien.com. Refurbished a few years ago, this hotelstill maintains a shiny, clean veneer, withcomfortably modern rooms, a huge fitnesscenter, rooftop swimming pool, and 24hrroom service that make the hotel’s weekendrates a special bargain. Rates start at $199.Mandarin Oriental New York 80Columbus Circle, between Columbus andAmsterdam aves T212/805-8800,Wwww.themandarinoriental.com. At thisbrand new property near the AOL-TimeWarner Building, the pampering is on parwith the astronomical rates. It’s not a wonderthis plush place is a favorite with entertain-ment industry execs; the generously propor-tioned and handsome rooms come withFrette linens, twice-daily housekeeping, andhi-def TVs. Rooms from $325.Mansfield 12 W 44th St between 5th and6th aves t1-877/847-4444 or 212/944-6050,wwww.mansfieldhotel.com. A makeover has transformed arather mangy midtown flophouse into one ofthe loveliest hotels in the city. The Mansfieldmanages, somehow, to be both grand andintimate. With its recessed floor spotlighting,copper-domed salon, clubby library, andnightly jazz, there’s a charming, slightlyquirky feel about the place. With theEuropean breakfast and all-day cappuccino,a great deal. Rooms from $250.The Metro 45 W 35th St between 5th and6th aves t1-800/356-3870 or 212/947-2500,wwww.hotelmetronyc.com. A verystylish hotel – with old Hollywood posters onthe walls, a delightful seasonal rooftop ter-race, clean rooms, and free continentalbreakfast. A few more extras (like a fitnessroom, and the highly recommended MetroGrill restaurant on the ground floor) than nor-mally expected in this category. Rooms startat $150.Paramount 235 W 46th St betweenBroadway and 8th Ave t212/764-5500,wwww.ianschragerhotels.com. A formerbudget hotel renovated ten years ago by IanSchrager (co-founder of Studio 54), theParamount offers chic but closet-size rooms.It also boasts a trendy (and sometimes rau-cous) bar. $235 and up.

The Plaza 768 5th Ave, at Central Park ST1-800/441-1414 or 212/759-3000,Wwww.fairmont.com. While the hotel’spatinaed grandeur has endured, it’s becomea bit of a tourist trap in recent years thanksto its many movie appearances. The publicspaces are gilded and harried but the roomsare actually quite nice and worth the moneyfor the fine old pseudo-French chateaubuilding and ideal location. Prices can run to$10,000 for a specialty suite – and that’sbefore taxes. Rooms go for $300 and up.Portland Square 132 W 47th St between6th and 7th aves t1-800/388-8988 or212/382-0600,wwww.portlandsquarehotel.com. A theater hotel since1904, and former home to Jimmy Cagneyand other members of Broadway casts, thewell-situated Portland is decorated with the-ater photographs and memorabilia and is agood budget operation. The cheapest roomsgo for $105.Royalton 44 W 44th St between 5th and6th aves t212/869-4400,wwww.ianschragerhotels.com. Attempting to capturethe market for the arbiters of style, thePhilippe Starck-designed Royalton aimed tobe the Algonquin of the 1990s and beyond.The tony nautical-themed rooms are com-fortable and quiet, affording a welcomeescape from the midtown bustle. The lobbybathrooms are not to be missed. Rates beginat $270.Salisbury 123 W 57th St between 6thand 7th aves t212/246-1300,wwww.nycsalisbury.com. Good service,large rooms with kitchenettes, and proximityto Central Park are the attractions here.Rooms from $279.Southgate Tower 371 7th Ave at W 31stSt t1-866/233-4642 or 212/563-1800,wwww.affinia.com. A member of theexcellent Affinia Hospitality chain, SouthgateTower is opposite Penn Station and MadisonSquare Garden. All double rooms are suiteswith kitchens. Rooms start at $165.Stanford 43 W 32nd St betweenBroadway and 5th Ave t1-800/365-1114or 212/563-1500,wwww.hotelstand-ford.com. In this clean, moderately pricedhotel on the block known as Little Korea,rooms are a tad small, but attractive andvery quiet. Free continental breakfast, valet

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laundry, and an efficient, friendly staff. $139and up.The Time 224 W 49th St betweenBroadway and 8th Ave t1-877/TIME NYC or 212/246-5252,wwww.thetimeny.com. Tempus fugit – and every-thing here reminds you to spend it wisely,from the waist-level clock in the lobby, to thehallways bedecked with Roman numerals. Ahip hotel with modern styling and smallishrooms that are tricked out with the latestaccoutrements (multiline phones, ergonomicwork station, fax). Not terribly expensive forwhat you get; rates start at $159.Warwick 65 W 54th St at 6th Ave t1-800/223-4099 or 212/247-2700,wwww.warwickhotel.com. Stars of the 1950sand 1960s – including Cary Grant, RockHudson, the Beatles, Elvis Presley, and JFK –stayed here as a matter of course. Althoughthe hotel has lost its showbiz cachet, it’s apleasant place, from the elegant lobby to theMurals on 54 restaurant and Randolph’scocktail lounge. The staff is helpful andfriendly. Rooms from $425.Wellington 871 7th Ave at W 55th St t1-800/652-1212 or 212/247-3900,wwww.wellingtonhotel.com. The gleam-ing, mirror-clad lobby is the result of freshrenovations, and similar attention has beenpaid to the rooms. Some have kitchenettes,and family rooms offer two bathrooms. Closeto Carnegie Hall and handy for LincolnCenter, this is very reasonable for this stretchof town. Rates start at $149.Westin New York at Times Square 270W 43rd St, at 8th Ave T1-800/WESTIN-1,Wwww.westinnewyork.com. The copperand blue glass building seems a little out ofplace (it was designed by Miami architects),but it’s a welcome addition to the selectionof Times Square hotels. The high-tech high-rise also features rooms with deliciouslycomfortable beds and double-headed show-ers. $160 and up.Westpark 6 Columbus Circle between 8thand 9th aves t1-866/WESTPARK or212/445-0200,wwww.westparkhotel.com. The bestrooms look out over Columbus Circle and thesouthwestern corner of Central Park. The staffis somewhat reserved but helpful, and it’s agreat deal for the area. Rooms start at $99.

Wolcott 4 W 31st St between 5th Aveand Broadway t212/268-2900,wwww.wolcott.com. A relaxing budget hotel,with a gilded, ornate Louis XVI-style lobbyfull of mirrors and lion reliefs (even theceiling is lavish). The rooms, while ratherstaid, are more than adequate. Rooms from$99.Wyndham 42 W 58th St between 5th and6th aves t1-800/257-1111 or 212/753-3500. This worn-around-the-edges midtownstandby can’t be beat for its location, price,and spacious guestrooms, many of whichinclude kitchenettes. Staff is very friendly,too. A great choice for families. Rates start at$155.

Midtown East: 34th to59th streets Alex Hotel 205 E 45th St, between 2ndand 3rd aves T1-800/695-8284 or212/867-5100. By the same owners as theflatotel, this spanking-new beige-toned placeis a serene midtown oasis. Rooms are Modwith Scandinavian touches. Rooms from$350 and up.Beekman Tower 3 Mitchell Place at E49th St and 1st Ave t1-866/233-4642 or212/320-8018,wwww.affinia.com. Oneof the more expensive hotels in the Affiniachain and also one of the most stylish. Suitescome with fully equipped kitchens. Thehotel’s Art Deco Top of the Towers restaurantoffers superb East Side views. Rooms from$294.Library 299 Madison Ave at E 41st Stt1-877/793-READ or 212/983-4500,wwww.libraryhotel.com. Each floor isdevoted to one of the ten major categoriesof the Dewey Decimal System, and eachroom’s artwork and books reflect a differentpursuit within that group. Only those with aserious sense of purpose could design sixtyunique rooms and handpick more than6000 books for the place, and the dedica-tion shows in other ways, notably in thelovely Poet’s Garden terrace. Rooms areaverage in size but nicely appointed, withbig bathrooms. The hotel throws a wine andcheese get-together every weekday. Ratesfrom $315.

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Morgans 237 Madison Ave between E37th and E 38th sts t1-800/334-3408 or212/686-0300,wwww.ianschragerhotels.com. One of the most chic flophous-es in town, and although the black-white-gray decor is starting to look self-consciously1980s, stars still frequent the place, able asthey are to slip in and out unnoticed. And youget a great CD/DVD system and cable TV inyour room. Rooms from $175.Pickwick Arms 230 E 51st St between2nd and 3rd aves t212/355-0300,wwww.pickwickarms.com. This thor-oughly pleasant budget hotel is one of thebest deals in midtown. All 370 rooms are air-conditioned, with cable TV, direct-dialphones, and room service. The open-air roofdeck has stunning views, and there are tworestaurants (one French, one Mediterranean)downstairs. $160 and up.Roger Smith 501 Lexington Ave at E 47thSt t212/755-1400,wwww.rogersmith.com. One of the best midtown hotels,popular with bands, offers both style andhelpful service. Features include individuallydecorated rooms, a great restaurant, andartwork on display. Breakfast is included;rates from $265.Shelburne Murray Hill 303 Lexington Avebetween E 37th and E 38th sts t212/689-5200,wwww.affinia.com. LuxuriousAffinia hotel in the most elegant part ofMurray Hill. All the rooms have kitchenettes,and its new restaurant Rare is earning goodreviews. $310 and up.W 541 Lexington Ave between E 49thand E 50th sts t212/755-1200,wwww.whotels.com. This stylish chain of luxuryhotels offers top-to-bottom comfort andprides itself on its wired in-room services,sleek neutral tones, and trendy publicspaces, such as the Whisky Blue Bar. Ratesfrom $349.Waldorf Astoria 301 Park Ave at E 50thSt t1-800/HILTONS or 212/355-3000,wwww.waldorf.com. One of the greatnames among New York hotels, and restoredto its 1930s glory, making it a wonderfulplace to stay if you can afford it or someoneelse is paying. $269 and up.

Uptown: above 59thStreet Amsterdam Inn 340 Amsterdam Ave atW 76th St t212/579-7500,wwww.amsterdaminn.com. From the owners ofthe much lauded Murray Hill Inn, the roomshere are basic (no closets) but clean, theyhave TVs and phones, and there’s a friendly,helpful staff. Rooms from $99.Essex House 160 Central Park Sbetween 6th and 7th aves t1-800/WESTIN-1 or 212/247-0300. A beau-tiful hotel for a special occasion, EssexHouse was restored by its previous Japaneseowners to its original Art Deco splendor. Thebest rooms have spectacular Central Parkviews. Despite the excellent service andmarble lobby, the atmosphere is quiterelaxed. Rates begin at $359.Lucerne 201 W 79th St at AmsterdamAve t1-800/492-8122 or 212/875-1000,wwww.newyorkhotel.com. This beautiful-ly restored 1904 brownstone, with its extrav-agantly Baroque red terracotta entrance,charming rooms, and friendly, helpful staff, isjust a block from the American Museum ofNatural History and close to the livelieststretch of Columbus Avenue. $190 and up.Mark 25 E 77th St between 5th andMadison aves t1-800/THE-MARK or212/744-4300,wwww.mandarinoriental.com. A hotel that really lives up toits claims of sophistication and elegance. Aredesign has kitted the lobby out withBiedermeier furniture and sleek Italian light-ing. In the guest rooms, restaurant, and invit-ingly dark Mark’s Bar, there’s a similaremphasis on the best of everything. Roomsbegin at $600.Milburn 242 W 76th St betweenBroadway and West End t212/362-1006,wwww.milburnhotel.com. This wel-coming and well-situated hotel, great forfamilies, has recently been renovated in gra-cious style. There is free Internet access inevery room, and the hotel offers free use ofswimming pool one block away. Rates startat $169.Riverside Tower 80 Riverside Drive at W80th St t1-800/724-3136 or 212/877-5200,wwww.riversidetowerhotel.com.Although the hallways are plain as can be

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and rooms – all with small refrigerators andprivate baths – are ultra-basic, it’s the loca-tion in this exclusive and safe neighborhood,flanked by one of the city’s most beautifulparks, that sets this budget hotel apart.Reservations a few weeks in advance rec-ommended. $89 and up.Wales 1295 Madison Ave between E92nd and E 93rd sts t212/876-6000,

wwww.waleshotel.com. Just steps from“Museum Mile,” this Carnegie Hill hotel hashosted guests for over a century. Rooms areattractive with antique details, thoughtful in-room amenities, and some views of CentralPark. There’s also a rooftop terrace, fitnessstudio, fine Sarabeth’s Café, and live harpmusic during breakfast. Rates begin at$279.

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Hostels and YMCAsHostels offer still more savings,and run the gamut in terms ofquality, safety, and amenities forbackpackers and budget travelers.It pays to do research ahead oftime so as to ensure satisfactionupon arrival; most of the city’sbest cheap sleeps have websites.Average hostel rates range from$30 to $60.Chelsea Center Hostel 313 W 29th St at8th Ave t212/643-0214,wwww.chelseacenterhostel.com. This small,clean, safe private hostel, with beds for $30,includes sheets, blankets, and breakfast.Reservations are essential in high season.Cash only.Chelsea International Hostel 251 W 20thSt between 7th and 8th aves t212/647-0010,wwww.chelseahostel.com. In the heart of Chelsea, this is asmart downtown choice. Beds are $27 anight, with four or six sharing the clean, rudi-mentary rooms. Private double rooms are$65 a night. Guests must leave a $10 keydeposit. No curfew; passport required.Gershwin 7 E 27th St between 5th andMadison aves t212/545-8000,wwww.gershwinhotel.com. Thishostel/hotel is geared toward young travel-ers, offering Pop Art decor and dormitorieswith ten, six, or two beds per room from $33a night, and private rooms from $99. There’aalso a new bar/cocktail lounge. Reservationsrecommended for both room types.

Hostelling International-New York 891Amsterdam Ave at W 103rd Stt212/932-2300,wwww.hinewyork.org.Dorm beds cost $32 (in ten-bed rooms) to$38 (in four-bed rooms); members pay a fewdollars less per night. The massive facilities– 624 beds in all – include a restaurant,library, travel shop, TV room, laundry, andkitchen. Reserve well in advance – this hos-tel is very popular.Vanderbilt YMCA 224 E 47th St between2nd and 3rd aves t212/756-9600,wwww.ymcanyc.org. Smaller and quieterthan most of the hostels above, and neatlyplaced in midtown Manhattan, just five min-utes’ walk from Grand Central. Inexpensiverestaurant, swimming pool, gym, and laun-dromat. Singles start at $67, doubles at $75.All rooms are air-conditioned but haveshared baths.West Side YMCA 5 W 63 St at CentralPark West t212/441-8800,wwww.ymcanyc.org. The “Y,” just steps from CentralPark, is housed in a landmark building thatboasts pool tiles gifted from the King ofSpain. It houses two floors of recently reno-vated rooms, an inexpensive restaurant,swimming pool, gym, and laundry. All roomsare air-conditioned. Singles $65, doubles$115 with private bath.Whitehouse Hotel of New York 340Bowery at Bond St t212/477-5623,wwww.whitehousehotelofny.com. This isthe only hostel in the city that offers singleand double rooms at dorm rates. Unbeatable

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Bed and breakfast can be a goodway of staying right in the centerof Manhattan at an affordableprice. But don’t expect to social-ize with your temporary land-lord/lady – chances are you’llhave a self-contained room andhardly see them – and don’t golooking for B&Bs on the streets.Reservations are normallyarranged through an agency suchas those listed below. Rates runabout $80–100 for a double, or$100 and up a night for a studioapartment. Book well inadvance.

B&B agenciesAffordable New York City 21 E 10th Stt212/533-4001,wwww.affordablenyc.com. Detailed descriptions are providedfor this established network of 120 proper-ties (B&Bs and apartments) around the city.B&B accommodations from $85 (sharedbath) and $100 (private bath), unhosted stu-dios $135–160 and one-bedrooms$175–225. Cash or travelers’ checks only;three-night minimum. Very customer-orient-ed and personable.City Lights Bed & Breakfast Box 1562First Ave, NY 10028 t212/737-7049,wwww.citylightsbandb.com. More than400 carefully screened B&Bs (and short-term apartment rentals) on its books, withmany of the hosts involved in theater and thearts. Hosted doubles are $95–120. Unhostedapartments cost $135–300 and up per nightdepending on size. Hosts are paid directly.

Minimum stay two nights, with some excep-tions. Reserve well in advance.CitySonnet.com t212/614-3034. Thissmall, personalized, artist-run B&B/short-term apartment agency offers accommoda-tions all over the city, but specializes inGreenwich Village. Singles start at $85, dou-bles are $100–155, and unhosted studioflats start at $120.Colby International 139 Round Hey,Liverpool L28 1RG, England, UKt0151/220-5848,wwww.colbyinternational.com. Excellent, guaranteedB&B accommodations arranged from the UK.Book at least a fortnight ahead in high sea-son for excellent-value apartments. Singlesrun $80–$90 (per room); doubles/twins gofor $95–$105.Urban Ventures 38 W 32nd St, Suite1412 t212/594-5650,[email protected]. Now operated by GamutRealty, this outfit provides flexibility; you canbook up until the last minute for nightly,weekly, or monthly rentals, and there’s aminimum stay of only two nights. Budgetdoubles from $75, “comfort range” roomsfrom $149.

B&B properties Box Tree 250 E 49th St between 2nd and3rd aves t212/758-8320,wwww.boxtreeinn.com. Thirteen elegant roomsand suites fill two adjoining eighteenth-cen-tury townhouses and make one of NewYork’s more eccentric lodgings, with themedEgyptian-, Chinese-, and Japanese-stylerooms. There’s also a sumptuously romanticrestaurant; doubles $200.

prices combined with an ideal downtownlocation and amenities such as ATMs, cableTV, and designer linens make this hostel an

excellent pick. Private singles start at $26,private doubles at $50.

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Inn at Irving Place 56 Irving Place at E17th St t1-800/685-1447 or 212/533-4600,wwww.innatirving.com. It costs$325–495 a night for one of the twelverooms – each named after a famous archi-tect, designer, or actor – in this handsomepair of 1834 brownstones, which must rankas one of the most exclusive guesthouses inthe city. Frequented by celebrities, the Inn

offers five-course high teas ($30 per per-son).New York Bed and Breakfast 134 W119th St at Lenox Ave t212/666-0559.This lovely old brownstone just north ofCentral Park in Harlem features nice doublerooms for $65 a night for two people. Doublerooms at an annexed property go for $60with access to a community kitchen.

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ArrivalUnless you’re coming from nearby on theEast Coast, the quickest way to get toNew York City is by flying. There are alsoplenty of routes into town by bus andtrain, which leave you off in the center ofManhattan within easy reach of hotels.The city is also accessible by car; howev-er, as traffic can often be difficult tonegotiate, it is not recommended.

By airNew York City is served by three majorairports: most international flights useJohn F. Kennedy, or JFK (t718/244-4444,wwww.panynj.gov/aviation/jfkframe), in Queens, though some Vir-gin, British Airways, and Continentalflights land at Newark (t973/961-6000,wwww.panynj.gov/aviation/ewrframe), inNew Jersey, which has easier access toLower Manhattan. Most domestic arrivalstouch down at LaGuardia (t718/533-3400,wwww.panynj.gov/aviation/lgaframe), also in Queens, or at Newark.

Getting into townFrom JFK, New York Airport Servicebuses run to the Port Authority Bus Ter-minal, Grand Central Station, PennStation, and major midtown hotels inManhattan (every 15–20min 6am–mid-night; trip time 45min–1hr; $13 one way,students $6; t718/706-9658,wwww.nyairportservice.com). Anotheroption is the bus/subway link, whichcosts just the $2 subway fare: take thefree shuttle bus (labeled “Long-termparking”) to the Howard Beach station onthe #A subway line, then the ninety-minute subway ride to central Manhattan.

You can also get to JFK Airport via thebrand new light rail AirTrain (t212/877-JFKT, wwww.panynj.gov/airtrain). Thetrains, which cost $5 one way, run everyfew minutes, 24 hours daily, between JFKand the Jamaica station, which hasaccess to Long Island Rail Road as well

as the #E, #J, and #Z subway trains or tothe Howard Beach #A station. If you takethe subway in, to downtown Manhattan, itshould take an hour; to reach Penn Sta-tion station via the LIRR, which departsevery 5–8 min 6am–11pm, count on a35-minute ride ($11.75) departing everyeight minutes.

If you are heading into the city fromNewark, Olympia Airport Express busestake up to forty minutes to get to Man-hattan, where they stop at Grand Central,Penn Station, Port Authority, and multiplelocations in Lower Manhattan (every20–30min 4am–midnight; $12 one–way,$19 roundtrip; t212/964-6233 or in NJt908/354-3330). A slightly more eco-nomical way to get to and from NewarkAirport is via AirTrain, also operated bythe NY & NJ Port Authority. Prices andtimes vary depending on which trainservice you use to connect with AirTrain,but to Penn Station count on a twenty-minute ride costing $11.55. (Every20–30min 6am–midnight; $8.30-$11.55 one–way; in NJt973/565-9814,wwww.airtrain-newark.com).

From LaGuardia, New York Airport Ser-vice buses take 45 minutes to get toGrand Central and Port Authority (every15–30min 7am–midnight; $10 one-way,$17 roundtrip, students one-way $6;t718/875-8200). Alternatively, for $2,you can take the #M60 bus across 125thStreet in Manhattan, where you cantransfer (for another $2) to multipledowntown-bound subway lines.

By bus or trainGreyhound Trailways, Bonanza, and PeterPan buses pull in at the Port AuthorityBus Terminal, 42nd St and Eighth Ave.Amtrak trains come in to Penn Station,at Seventh Ave and 33rd St. From eitherPort Authority or Penn Station, multiplesubway lines will take you where youwant to go.

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If arriving by car, you have multipleoptions: Route 495 transects midtownManhattan from New Jersey through theLincoln Tunnel and from the east throughthe Queens-Midtown Tunnel. From thesouthwest, I-95 (New Jersey Turnpike)and I-78 serve Canal and Spring streetsnear SoHo and TriBeCa via the HollandTunnel. From Brooklyn and other south-east points, I-278 (Brooklyn-Queens

Expressway) crosses the East River at theBrooklyn, Manhattan, Williamsburg, andQueensboro bridges; I-478 uses theBrooklyn-Battery Tunnel. From the north,I-87 (New York State Thruway) and I-95serve Manhattan’s loop roads: Route 9A(Henry Hudson Parkway) and East RiverDrive (FDR Drive). Be prepared for delaysat tunnels and bridges; most charge tolls.

InformationThe best place for information is the NewYork Convention and Visitors Bureau,810 Seventh Ave at 53rd St (Mon–Fri8.30am–6pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm;t212/484-1222,wwww.nycvisit.com).It has leaflets on what’s going on in thearts, bus and subway maps, and informa-tion on accommodation – though theycan’t actually book anything for you.There are also free city maps available atthe tourist cubicle in Grand Central.Another helpful tourist office is the TimesSquare Visitors Center at 1560 Broad-way, between 46th and 47th sts (daily8am–8pm; t212/768-1560,wwww.timessquarebid.org/visitor), whichcan help arrange tours and tickets toBroadway shows.

For information about what’s on, theVillage Voice (Wednesdays, free in Man-hattan) is the most widely read, mainlyfor its comprehensive arts coverage andinvestigative features. Its main competi-tor, the New York Press, is an edgieralternative and has excellent listings.Other leading weeklies include glossyNew York magazine ($2.99), which hasreasonably comprehensive listings, thevenerable New Yorker magazine ($3.95),and Time Out New York ($2.99) – aclone of its London original, combiningthe city’s most comprehensive what’s-onlistings with New York-slanted news sto-ries and entertainment features.

Useful websitesCitySearch NY wwww.newyork.citysearch.com. A solid,comprehensive search engine withweekly updated listings and tamefeatures.Daily Candywwww.dailycandy.com. Excellentresource for the latest in fashion, food,and cultural trends around the city.NYC Transit Authoritywwww.mta.nyc.ny.us. Officialsubway/bus/Metro-North, and LIRRwebsite – schedules, fare info, reroutings,history, and fun facts.NYC Visitors Bureauwwww.nycvisit.com. The official websiteof the New York Convention and VisitorsBureau.Time Out New Yorkwwww.timeoutny.com. What’s on thisweek in music, clubs, book readings,museums, movies, and other featuresfrom the publication.The Village Voicewwww.villagevoice.com. An alternativeweekly whose best feature is its wittylistings section, “Choices.”Telechargewwww.telecharge.com. Information andonline ticket sales for Broadway and off-Broadway theater shows.

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City transportationGetting around the city is likely to takesome getting used to; public trans-portation here is on the whole quitegood, extremely cheap, and covers mostconceivable corners of the city, whetherby bus or subway. You’ll no doubt find theneed for a taxi from time to time, espe-cially if you feel uncomfortable in an areaat night; you shouldn’t ever have troubletracking one down.

The subwayThe fastest way to get from point A topoint B in Manhattan and the boroughs isthe subway, open 24 hours a day. Intimi-dating at first glance, the system isactually quite user-friendly. A number orletter identifies each train and route, andmost routes in Manhattan run uptown ordowntown, rather than crosstown.

Every trip, whether on the expresslines, which stop only at major stations,or the locals, which stop at all stations,costs $2, payable by MetroCard, avail-able at station booths or credit/debit/ATMcard-capable vending machines. Metro-Cards can be purchased in any amountfrom $4 to $80; a $20 purchase allowstwelve rides for the cost of ten. Unlimitedrides are available with a 24hr “FunPass” ($7), a seven-day pass ($21), anda thirty-day pass ($70).

BusesNew York’s bus system is clean andoften efficient. Its one disadvantage isthat it can be extremely slow – in peakhours almost down to walking pace – butit can be your best bet for travelingcrosstown. Buses stop every two or threeblocks, and the fare is payable on entrywith a MetroCard (see above); you cantransfer for free from subway to bus, or

from bus to bus (though not from bus tosubway), within two hours of swiping yourMetroCard. Keep in mind, though, thattransfers can only be used to continue onin your original direction, not for returntrips on the same bus line. Bus maps,like subway maps, can be obtained at themain concourse of Grand Central or theConvention and Visitors Bureau at 53rdSt and Seventh Ave.

TaxisTaxis are reasonably priced – and theubiquitous yellow cabs are always on theprowl for passengers.Most drivers take upto four passengers, refuse bills larger than$20, and ask for the nearest cross streetto your destination. Tips range betweenten and twenty percent of the fare. An illu-minated sign atop the taxi indicates itsavailability; if the words “Off Duty” are lit,the driver won’t pick you up. You shouldonly use official yellow taxis and avoidunofficial “gypsy” and livery cabs.

DrivingDon’t. Even if you’re brave enough to trydodging demolition-derby cab drivers andjaywalking pedestrians, car rental isexpensive, parking lots almost laughablyso, and legal street parking nearly impos-sible to find.

If you must drive, watch for street-cleaning hours (when an entire side of astreet will be off-limits for parking), anddon’t park in a bus stop, in front of (orwithin several yards of) a fire hydrant, oranywhere with a yellow curb. Note thatthe use of hand-held cell phones is illegalwhile driving.

Private parking is expensive, extremelyso at peak periods, but it makes sense toleave your car somewhere legitimate: ifit’s towed away you must liberate it fromthe car pound (t212/971-0770) –expect to pay around $185 in cash ($20for each additional day they store it foryou) and waste the better part of a day.

Bus and subway informationt718/330-1234 (24 hoursdaily). Lost and foundt212/712-4500

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The Yellow Pages has full listings of bikerental firms. One of the city’s best andbiggest bike store chains offering rentalsis Metro Bicycles 1311 Lexington Ave atE 88th St (t212/427-4450); 546 SixthAve at W 15th St (t212/255-5100);231 W 96th St between Broadway and

Amsterdam Ave (t212/663-7531); 360W 47th St at Ninth Ave (t212/581-4500), and other branches in Manhattan.Standard at $7 an hour and $35 a day, or$45 if you return the bike by the nextday’s closing.

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City toursCountless businesses and individualscompete to help you make sense of thecity, offering all manner of guided tours.One of the more original – and leastexpensive – ways to get oriented is withBig Apple Greeter (1 Centre St, suite2035; t212/669-8159,wwww.bigap-plegreeter.org). This not-for-profit groupmatches you with one of 500 local volun-teers, depending on your interest. Visitshave a friendly, informal feel, and gener-ally last a few hours (although some havegone on all day). The service is free, soget in touch well ahead of time. Tailoredtourist packages can be purchased andcustomized through New York CityVacation Packages (t1-888/692-8701,wwww.nycvp.com), which canbook rooms at some of the city’s finesthotels, land tickets to sold-out Broadwayshows, and organize a walking tour ofGround Zero or Chinatown for you; justpick from an a la carte menu of offerings.Package prices vary widely.

Gray Line, the biggest operator of guid-ed bus tours in the city, is based inmidtown Manhattan at 42nd St andEighth Ave (t1-800/669-0051,wwww.grayline.com); they also have anoffice at the Port Authority Bus Terminal.Half-day double-decker bus tours, takingin the main sights of Manhattan, go foraround $35, while a full day costs$79–89; these are bookable through anytravel agent, or directly at the bus stops.

For a bird’s-eye view, Liberty HelicopterTours, at the west end of 30th St near the

Jacob Javits Convention Center(t212/967-4550,wwww.libertyheli-copters.com), offers helicopter flightsfrom around $56 for seven minutes to$162 for seventeen minutes per person.Helicopters take off regularly between9am and 9pm every day unless winds andvisibility are bad.

A great way to see the city skyline iswith the Circle Line, which sails aroundManhattan in three hours from Pier 83 atthe west end of 42nd St (at Twelfth Ave),taking in everything from bustling down-town to the more subdued stretches ofHarlem, with a commentary and on-board bar (March–Dec with varyingregularity; $21 for two-hour tour, $26 forthree-hour tour; t212/563-3200,wwww.circleline.com).

Options for walking tours of Manhat-tan or the outer boroughs are many andvaried:Adventure on a Shoestring (t212/265-2663) offers such wonderfully off-beatoptions as “Marilyn Monroe’s Manhat-tan,” the “When Irish Eyes Were Smiling”tour of Hell’s Kitchen, and “Greenwich Vil-lage Ghosts Galore.” Tours ($5) run ninetyminutes and are offered on weekends,rain or shine, throughout the year.Big Onion Walking Tours (t212/439-1090,wwww.bigonion.com) peel off themany layers of the city’s history (allguides hold advanced degrees in Ameri-can history). Tours run from $12 butexpect to add $4 if the tour includes“noshing stops.”

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Harlem Heritage Tours (t212/280-7888,wwww.harlemheritage.com)present cultural walking visits to Harlem,general and specific (such as Harlem jazzclubs), led middays and evenings sevendays a week for $10–100 (most toursaverage $25); reservations are recom-mended.

Municipal Arts Society (t212/935-3960or 212/439-1049,wwww.mas.org) leadsarchitectural, public art, historic preserva-tion, and cultural tours. Weekday walkingtours from $15–20; free Wednesdaylunchtime tours of Grand Central Stationbegin at 12.30pm from the main infor-mation booth; Saturday walking and bustours may require reservations.

Con ten t s Essen t i a l s

CityPassFor significant discounts at six of the city’s major tourist and cultural attractions –the American Museum of Natural History, the Guggenheim Museum, the Museum ofModern Art, the Intrepid Sea-Air-Space Museum, the Circle Line Harbor Cruise, andthe Empire State Building – you can purchase a CityPass ($45; t707/256-0490,wwww.citypass.com). Valid for nine days, it allows you to skip most lines and save(up to $46, if you visit all six sights). CityPasses are sold at each of the six attrac-tions to which the pass provides admission.

Money With an ATM card (and PIN number)you’ll have access to cash frommachines all over New York, though asanywhere, you may be a charged a feefor using a different bank’s ATM network.To find the location of the nearest ATM,call: Amex T1-800/CASH-NOW, PlusT1-800/843-7587, or Cirrus T1-800/424-7787.

Most banks are open Monday–Friday9am–3pm: some banks stay open later

on Thursdays or Fridays, and a few havelimited Saturday hours. Major banks –such as Citibank and Chase – willexchange travelers’ checks and currencyat a standard rate. For banking services– particularly currency exhange – outsidenormal business hours and on weekends,try major hotels: the rate won’t be asgood, but it’s the best option in a tightfinancial corner.

Phones, mail, and emailTelephones in Manhattan have one oftwo area codes, 212 and 646, while theouter boroughs (Brooklyn, Queens, theBronx and Staten Island) use 718. Allcalls within the city are treated as local,but be sure to dial the area code beforecalling any number.

International visitors who want to usetheir cell phones will need to check withtheir phone provider whether it will workin the US and what the call charges are;

from elsewhere in the US, your phoneshould operate fine, but you may incurroaming charges. To call home interna-tionally: dial 011 + country code +number, minus the initial 0. Countrycodes are as follows: Australia (61),Canada (1), New Zealand (64), UK &Northern Ireland (44), and Eire (353).

As for mail, international letters willusually take about a week to reach theirdestination; rates are currently 80¢ for

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letters and 70¢ for postcards to Europeor Australia. To find a post office or checkup-to-date rates, see Wwww.usps.comor call T1-800/275-8777.

If you’re traveling without your owncomputer and modem, accessing youremail is possible at numerous Internetcafés. Try the Cyber Cafe, 250 W 49th Stbetween Broadway and Eighth Ave(T212/333-4109,wwww.cyber-cafe.com) or alt.coffee, at 139 Ave A at E9th St (T212/529-2233,wwww.altdot-

coffee.com). You can also visit EasyEverything, 234 W 42nd St betweenSeventh and Eighth aves (no phone,wwww.easyeverything.com), which hashundreds of terminals. These placescharge $10–12 an hour, and you caneasily access your email, surf the Net toyour heart’s content, or just drink coffee.An alternative is to stop by a branch ofthe New York City Public Library, wherefree internet use is available.

Con ten t s Essen t i a l s

Festivals and holidaysNew York has a huge variety of specialfestivals, the biggest of which aredetailed below. On the national publicholidays listed in the box below, stores,banks, and public and federal offices areliable to be closed all day.

Chinese New Year The first full moon between Jan 21 andFeb 19. Chinatown bursts open to watch agiant red, green, and gold dragon made ofwood, cloth, and papier-mâché run downMott Street. Note that the chances of get-ting a meal in Chinatown then are slim.

St Patrick’s DayParade March 17 t212/484-1222. A celebra-tion of an impromptu 1762 marchthrough the streets by Irish militiamen onSt Patrick’s Day, this has become a drawfor every Irish band and organization inthe US and Ireland. Usually startingaround 11am, the parade heads up FifthAvenue between 44th and 86th streetsand can get quite raucous

West Indian DayParade and Carnival Labor Day t718/625-1515,wwww.wiadca.com. Brooklyn’s largest

parade is modeled after the carnivals ofTrinidad and Tobago and features music,food, dance, and colorful floats with ear-jarring sound systems.

Village HalloweenParade Oct 31 t212/475-3333 x14044,wwww.halloween-nyc.com. At America’slargest Halloween celebration, at 7pm on6th Ave from Spring to 23rd sts you’ll seespectacular costumes, wigs, and make-up. Get there early for a good viewingspot; marchers (anyone in costume is eli-gible) line up at 6pm. (A tamer children’sparade usually takes place earlier thatday in Washington Square Park.)

Macy’s ThanksgivingDay Parade Thanksgiving Day t212/494-4495,wwww.macysparade.com. New York’smost televised parade, with big corporatefloats, dozens of marching bands fromaround the country, and Santa Claus’sfirst appearance of the season. Morethan two million spectators watch it startat 9am and wind its way from 77th Stdown Central Park West to Columbus Cir-cle, then down Broadway to HeraldSquare.

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Dec 31 t212/768-1560,wwww.timessquarebid.org. Several hun-dred thousand revelers party in the cold

streets at this event, a traffic and securitynightmare. Be sure to take the subwayand get there early to see the ball dropon the stroke of midnight to usher in thenew year.

Con ten t s Essen t i a l s

Public holidays

January1: New Year’s Day3rd Monday: Dr Martin Luther King

Jr’s Birthday

February3rd Monday: Presidents’ Day

MayLast Monday: Memorial Day

July4: Independence Day

September1st Monday: Labor Day

October2nd Monday: Columbus Day

November11: Veterans’ Day4th Thursday: Thanksgiving Day

December25: Christmas Day

DirectoryAirlines Toll-free phone numbers offoreign airlines include:Air India t1-800/223-7776; Air New Zealand t1-800/262-1234;British Airways t1-800/247-9297; Japan Air Lines t1-800/525-3663;Korean Airlines t1-800/438-5000;Kuwait Airways t1-800/458-9248; Virgin Atlantic Airways t1-800/862-8621.Consulates Australia, 150 E 42nd St(t212/351-6500,wwww.australianyc.org); Canada, 1251 6th Ave at 50th St(t212/596-1628,wwww.canada-ny.org); Ireland, 345 Park Ave at 51st St(t212/319-2555); New Zealand, 222 E41st St between 2nd and 3rd aves(t212/832-4038); South Africa, 333 E38th St at 1st Ave (t212/213-4880,wwww.southafrica-newyork.net/consulate); UK, 845 3rd Ave between51st and 52nd sts (t212/745-0200,wwww.britainusa.com/ny).Electric current 110V AC with two-pronged plugs. Unless they’re dualvoltage, all British appliances will need avoltage converter as well as a plug

adapter. Be warned, some converters maynot be able to handle certain high-wattage items, especially those withheated elements.Emergencies For Police, Fire, orAmbulance dial t911.ID Carry some at all times, as there areany number of occasions on which youmay be asked to show it. Two pieces of IDare preferable and one should have aphoto – passport and credit card are thebest bets. Almost every bar and mostrestaurants (serving alcohol) in New Yorkwill ask for proof of age (21 and over).Lost property Things lost on buses or onthe subway: NYC Transit Authority, at the34th St/8th Ave Station on the lowerlevel-subway mezzanine (Mon–Wed & Fri8am–noon, Thurs 11am–6.30pmt212/712-4500). Property lost onAmtrak: Penn Station upper level (Mon–Fri7.30am–4pm t212/630-7389). ForMetro North: Grand Central Terminallower-level (Mon–Fri 7am–6pm, Sat9am–5pm t212/340-2555,wwww.mta.info). Things lost in a cab:

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Taxi & Limousine Commission LostProperty Dept (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm exceptnational holidays t311 or t212/227-0700,wwww.nyc.gov/taxi).Tax Within New York City you’ll pay an8.625 percent sales tax on top of markedprices on just about everything but thevery barest of essentials. Clothing(excluding shoes) is exempt for items upto $110 are without tax. Hotel stays aresubject to sales tax, five percent hotel tax,and $2 per room per night.Time Three hours ahead of West CoastNorth America, five hours behind Britainand Ireland, fourteen to sixteen hoursbehind East Coast Australia (variations forDaylight Savings Time), sixteen toeighteen hours behind New Zealand(variations for Daylight Savings Time).Tipping Tipping, in a restaurant, bar, taxicab, or hotel lobby, on a guided tour, andeven in some posh washrooms, is a partof life in the States. In restaurants inparticular, it’s unthinkable not to leave theminimum (fifteen percent of the bill or

double the tax) – even if you disliked theservice.Worship The following (and many, manyothers) conduct regular services andmasses. Anglican (Episcopal): Cathedral ofSt John the Divine, 1047 Amsterdam Aveat 112th St (t212/316-7540,wwww.stjohndivine.org); StBartholomew’s, 109 E 50th St betweenPark and Lexington aves (t212/378-0200,wwww.stbarts.org). Catholic: StPatrick’s Cathedral, 5th Ave between 50thand 51st sts (t212/753-2261,wwww.ny-archdiocese.org). Jewish(Reform): Temple Emanu-El, 1 E 65th St at5th Ave (t212/744-1400,wwww.emanuelnyc.org). Jewish(Conservative): Park Avenue Synagogue,50 E 87th St at Madison Ave (t212/369-2600,wwww.pasyn.com). Muslim:Islamic Cultural Center of New York, 17113rd Ave at 96th St (t212/722-5234).Unitarian: Church of All Souls, 1157Lexington Ave at 80th St (t212/535-5530,wwww.allsoulsnyc.org).

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A Rough Guide to Rough GuidesNew York DIRECTIONS is published by Rough Guides. The first Rough Guide to Greece, publishedin 1982, was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon. The immediate successof the book – with numerous reprints and a Thomas Cook prize shortlisting – spawned a seriesthat rapidly covered dozens of destinations. Rough Guides had a ready market among low-budg-et backpackers, but soon also acquired a much broader and older readership that relishedRough Guides’ wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach. Everyonewants value for money, but not at any price. Rough Guides soon began supplementing the“rougher” information about hostels and low-budget listings with the kind of detail on restau-rants and quality hotels that independent-minded visitors on any budget might expect, whetheron business in New York or trekking in Thailand. These days the guides offer recommendationsfrom shoestring to luxury and they cover a large number of destinations around the globe,including almost every country in the Americas and Europe, more than half of Africa and most ofAsia and Australasia. Rough Guides now publish:

• Travel guides to more than 200 worldwide destinations• Dictionary phrasebooks to 22 major languages• Maps printed on rip-proof and waterproof Polyart™ paper• Music guides running the gamut from Opera to Elvis • Reference books on topics as diverse as the Weather and Shakespeare• World Music CDs in association with World Music Network

Visit www.roughguides.com to see our latest publications.

Con ten t s I ndex and Sma l l P r i n t

Publishing informationThis 1st edition published August 2004 by RoughGuides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL.345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014,USA.

Distributed by the Penguin GroupPenguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RLPenguin Group (USA), 375 Hudson Street, NY10014, USAPenguin Group (Australia), 487 MaroondahHighway, PO Box 257, Ringwood, Victoria 3134,AustraliaPenguin Group (Canada), 10 Alcorn Avenue,Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 1E4Penguin Group (NZ), 182–190 Wairau Road,Auckland 10, New ZealandTypeset in Bembo and Helvetica to an originaldesign by Henry Iles.Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom

© Martin Dunford August 2004

No part of this book may be reproduced in anyform without permission from the publisher exceptfor the quotation of brief passages in reviews.

240pp includes indexA catalogue record for this book is available fromthe British Library

ISBN 1-84353-322-7

The publishers and authors have done their best toensure the accuracy and currency of all the infor-mation in New York DIRECTIONS, however, theycan accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, orinconvenience sustained by any traveller as a resultof information or advice contained in the guide.

1 3 5 7 9 8 6 4 2

We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure thatthe first edition of New York DIRECTIONSis accurate and up-to-date. However, thingschange – places get “discovered”, openinghours are notoriously fickle, restaurants androoms raise prices or lower standards. If youfeel we’ve got it wrong or left somethingout, we’d like to know, and if you canremember the address, the price, the time,the phone number, so much the better.

We’ll credit all contributions, and send acopy of the next edition (or any otherDIRECTIONS guide or Rough Guide if you

prefer) for the best letters. Everyone whowrites to us and isn't already a subscriberwill receive a copy of our full-colour thrice-yearly newsletter. Please mark letters:“New York DIRECTIONS Update” andsend to: Rough Guides, 80 Strand, LondonWC2R 0RL, or Rough Guides, 4th Floor,345 Hudson St, New York, NY 10014. Orsend an email to [email protected]

Have your questions answered and tellothers about your trip atwww.roughguides.atinfopop.com

Help us update

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225IN

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Text editor: Richard Koss

Layout: Diana Jarvis

Photography: Nelson Hancock

Cartography: Rajesh Mishra, Manish Chandra,

Jai Prakesh Mishra, Katie Lloyd-Jones

Picture editor: Jj Luck

Proofreader: Margaret Doyle

Production: John McKay

Design: Henry Iles

Cover art direction : Louise Boulton

Rough Guide Credits

Photo creditsAll images © Nelson Hancock/Rough Guides except the following:

Front cover: Cabs in Times Square © Digital VisionBack cover: Grand Central Station with Chrysler

Building© Robert Hardingp.10 Big Julie, 1945 (oil on canvas) by Fernand

Léger (1881-1955)Museum of Modern Art, New York, USA /Bridgeman Art Library

p.13 Peter Luger’s Steak House © Peter Luger’sSteak House

p.19 Early Sunday Morning by Edward Hopper ©Francis G. Mayer/Corbis

p.28 Traffic Speeding Past Radio City Music Hall© Alan Schein Photography/Corbis

p.29 Don Hill’s © Mark Peterson/CORBISp.29 Jazz Band at the Knitting Factory © Kevin

Fleming/Corbisp.35 Helicopter Tours © Picture courtesy of

Liberty Helicoptersp.37 The Monster Club © The Monster Clubp.41 Yankee Stadium © Shannon

Stapleton/Reuters/Corbisp.47 ‘Breakfast At Tiffany’s’, Audrey Hepburn ©

SNAP (SYP)/Rex Featuresp.50 Aquavit Restaurant © Najlah Feanny/Corbisp.51 71 Clinton Fresh Food © Steve Doughtonp.51 Balthazar © Mark Peterson/Corbisp.51 BondSt © BondStp.53 St. Marks-in-the-Bowery © Lee

Snider/Corbisp.54 Elvis Costello Performs at SummerStage ©

David Bergman/Corbisp.55 Times Square TKTS Booth © Michael

Appleton/Corbisp.56 Women Singers Performing in The Mikado

© Lee Snider/Corbisp.57 Performance of La Bayadere at the

Metropolitan Opera House © JulieLemberger/Corbis

p.57 Brazilian Dancers Performing Folkloric Ballet© Julie Lemberger/Corbis

p.61 Bubby’s © Ron Silver/Bubby’s Pie Co.p.62 Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade © Michel

Friang/Alamyp.63 Hallowe’en Parade © Village Halloween

Paradep.63 New Year’s Eve, Times Square ©

Reuters/Corbisp.63 Chinese Dragon at Chinese New Year’s

Parade © Alan Schein Photoagraphy/Corbisp.136 47th Street, Diamond District © Gail

Mooney/Corbisp.138 Intrepid Sea Air & Space Museum ©

Intrepid Sea Air & Space Museum p.142 42nd Street © Shannon

Stapleton/Reuters/Corbisp.144 New York Public Library Reading Room ©

Bo Zaunders/Corbisp.166 Park Avenue © Zefa/Masterfile/Roy Oomsp.168 Chocolates at the Payard Bistro © Payard

Bistro p.169 Roof Garden © Ambient Images Inc./Alamyp.190 Greek Astoria © StockAB/Alamyp.192 Yankee Stadium © Chris Bradley/Axiom

AcknowledgementsThanks to Andrew Rosenberg and Richard Koss for

patient editing and overall guidance, and Diana

Jarvis and Jj Luck for great layout and picture

selection respectively.

The authorMartin Dunford is one of the founders of Rough

Guides and now works as its Publishing Director.

He is the author (or co-author) of several guides,

including those to Amsterdam, The Netherlands,

Brussels, Belgium & Luxembourg, Italy, and Rome.

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IndexMap entries are marked in spot colour

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125th Street 1809/11 72, 73

aAbyssinian Baptist

Church 53, 182accommodation 201accommodation 202accommodation prices 201Adam Clayton Powell, Jr State

Office Building 180airlines 221Alphabet City 106American Craft Museum 147American Financial History

Museum 73American Museum of Natural

History 19, 173American Museum of the

Moving Image 190Apollo Theater 181Aquarium

(Coney Island) 43, 189arrival 215Asia Society 166Astor Place 103Astoria 190Astroland amusement

park 189

bbanks 219bars (by area)

Chelsea 126Chinatown and Little Italy 90East Village 110Financial District 78Greenwich Village 119Harlem 185Lower East Side 101Midtown East 154outer boroughs 197SoHo 96TriBeCa 84Times Square and the Theater

District 141Union Square, Gramercy Park,

and Murray Hill 133Upper East Side 170Upper West Side 178

bars 7B 110Abbey Pub 178Ace Bar 110

American Trash 170Angel’s Share 110Bar 89 96Bar and Books, Beekman 154Barramundi 101Barrio Chino 101Belmont Lounge 133Blind Tiger Ale House 119Bohemian Hall and Beer

Garden 197Boogaloo 197Brooklyn Brewery 197Bubble Lounge 84Burp Castle 110Campbell Apartment 154Chumley’s 39, 119Cocktail Room 170Collins Bar 141Cubby Hole 119d.b.a. 110Dead Poet 179Decibel 110Divine Bar 154Double Happiness 90Dublin House Tap Room 179Duplex 119Dylan Prime 84Fanelli’s 39, 96Frank’s Cocktail Lounge 197Galapagos 197Gate 197Grace 84Half King 126Happy Ending 101Harry’s at Hanover Square 78Hi-Life 170Holiday Cocktail Lounge 110Hudson Hotel 141Iona 197Jeremy’s Alehouse 78Jimmy’s Corner 142KGB 110Lakeside Lounge 110Landmark Tavern 142Lansky Lounge & Grill 102Lennox Lounge 185Lever House 154Liquor Store Bar 84Lush 84Mare Chiaro 90Maritime Hotel Bar 126Max Fish 102McSorley’s Old Ale

House 39, 110Merc Bar 96Metropolitan Museum

of Art 170Monster 37, 119No Idea 133No Moore 84Old Town Bar &

Restaurant 38, 133Open 126

Orange Bear 78Orchard Bar 102P.J. Clarke’s 47, 154Passerby 126Pete’s Candy Store 198Pete’s Tavern 134Pravda 96Puffy’s Tavern 84Revival 134Rhône 119Rise 78Rudy’s 142Russian Vodka Room 142Serena 127Shark Bar 179St Dymphna’s 110Standard 111Stinger Club 198Stonewall Inn 36, 119Subway Inn 38, 170Suite 16 127Sweet & Vicious 90Time Out 179Tupelo 198Underbar 134Waterfront Ale House 198West End Café 49, 179White Horse Tavern 49, 120Winnie’s 90Ye Olde Tripple Inn 142Zum Schneider 111

baseball 42, 191Battery Park 67bed and breakfast 210Bedford Street 113Bleecker Street 112Bloomingdale’s department

store 58, 167Bowery 99Bowling Green 74Brighton Beach 17Brighton Beach 189Bronx 192, 194, 195Bronx Zoo 43, 192Brooklyn 186, 193Brooklyn Academy

of Music 57, 198Brooklyn Botanic

Garden 43, 188Brooklyn Bridge 81Brooklyn Esplanade 35Brooklyn Heights 40, 186,

195, 196, 198Brooklyn Museum

of Art 186Bryant Park 145bus terminal 215buses 217

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ccafés (by area)

Central Park 160Chinatown and Little Italy 89East Village 107Greenwich Village 117SoHo 94Upper East Side 168Upper West Side 176

cafés Boathouse Café 160Café dell’Artista 117 Doma 117Edgar’s 176Ferrara 89Gitane 94Hungarian Pastry

Shop 22, 177Le Figaro 22, 117Le Pain Quotidien 94Magnolia Bakery 117Mozart 176Payard Bistro 168Podunk Café 107Sabarsky 23, 168Serendipity 3 168Tea and Tea 89Thé Adoré 23, 107 Veniero’s 23, 107

Canal Street 20, 87Carl Schurz Park 167Carnegie Hall 57, 137cast-iron buildings 91Castle Clinton 67Cathedral of St John the

Divine 52, 175Central Park 8, 11,

54,155 Central Park 156Central Park Zoo 43,

155Chelsea 121, 124Chelsea and the Garment

District 122Chelsea Hotel

48, 122, 204Children’s Museum of

Manhattan 42, 174Chinatown 7, 17, 85Chinatown and

Little Italy 86Chinese New Year 63, 220Christopher Street

37, 114Chrysler Building 25, 151Church of the Ascension 115Church of the Transfiguration

(Chinatown) 86Church of the

Transfiguration 130Citicorp Center 24, 151 City Hall Park 79City Hall Park and

TriBeCa 80City Museum 165city transportation 55, 217CityPass 219Clinton Street 98Cloisters Museum 184clubs and music venues 55

Bar 120Arlene’s Grocery 102Arthur’s Tavern 120Avalon 134Beacon Theatre 57, 179Birdland 142Blue Smoke:

Jazz Standard 134Bowery Ballroom 102Bowery Poetry Club 111Bungalow 8 127Café Carlyle 170Centro-Fly 134China Club 143Don Hill’s 29, 96Don’t Tell Mama 143Frying Pan 127g 127GBGB and OMFUG 111Iridium Jazz Club 143Irving Plaza 134Joe’s Pub 111Joyce 127Knitting Factory 29, 84Limelight 134Marie’s Crisis 37 Mercury Lounge 29, 102Pyramid Club 111Roseland 143Roxy 127S.O.B.’s 120Smoke 179Suede 127Supper Club 143Swing 46 Jazz Club 143Tonic 102Village Underground 29, 120Village Vanguard 120

Columbia University 175comedy clubs

Caroline’s on Broadway 143Chicago City Limits 170Comic Strip Live 170Gotham 134Stand Up New York 179

Coney Island 41, 189consulates 221Cooper Union 104Cooper-Hewitt National Design

Museum 164cruises 35, 75Cunard Building 73cycling 218

dDakota Building 47, 171

De Niro, Robert 84Delacorte Theater 159Delancey Street 98Diamond Row 136driving 216, 217

eEast Village 103East Village 104Eighth Avenue 121El Barrio 180, 184Eldridge Street Synagogue 99electric current 221Ellis Island 11, 69emergencies 221Empire State Building 10, 25,

34, 46, 131Essex Street 99ethnic New York 16

fFederal Hall 71ferries 55, 67festivals 220Fifth Avenue 21, 144, 161Fifty-seventh Street 137Financial District 7, 70Financial District 71Flatiron Building 130Forbes Magazine

Galleries 115Fraunces Tavern Museum 75Frick Collection 19, 161

ggalleries

123 Watts 82Apex Art 82Art in General 82Art Projects International 82Artists’ Space 93Barbara Gladstone 124Brent Sikkema 124Cheryl Pelavin Fine Arts 82Drawing Center 93Gagosian 124Gorney Bravin + Lee 124Kennedy 139Marlborough 139Mary Boone 139Max Protetch 124Pat Hearn 124Ronald Feldman Fine Arts 94Slingshot Project 66 94Tibor de Nagy 139

Garment District 121, 123, 125

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and Chelsea 122gay New York 36, 114, 119Gay Pride March 114GE Building 25, 146 General Post Office 124General Theological

Seminary 121Ginsberg, Allen 49, 179Grace Church 104 Gracie Mansion 167Gramercy Park 15, 128Gramercy Park 129Grand Army Plaza 148Grand Central Terminal

149Grand Street 87Greeley Square 123Greeley, Horace 79green spaces 14Greenwich Village 7, 112Greenwich Village 112Ground Zero 72, 73Grove Street 114Guggenheim Museum 164

hHallowe’en Parade 63, 220Harbor Islands 68Harbor Islands 68Harlem and above 180Harlem and above

area 182Haughwout Building 91Hayden Planetarium 174helicopter tours 35Hell’s Kitchen 138, 135Helmsley Building 150Herald Square 123holidays 220hostels 209hotels 201hotels (by area)

14th to 34th Street 20434th to 59th Street 20534th to 59th

Street 207, 209, 210above 59th Street 208below 14th Street 201hotels 60 Thomson 201Alex 207Algonquin 49, 136, 205Ameritania 205Amsterdam Inn 208Beekman Tower 207Box Tree 211Broadway Inn 205Bryant Park 205Carlton 204Casablanca 205Chelsea Hotel 48, 122, 204

Chelsea Lodge 204Chelsea Savoy 204Cosmopolitan 201Edison 205Essex House 208Flatotel 205Gershwin 209Gramercy Park 204Hudson 33, 141, 205 Hudson 33Inn at Irving Place 211Iroquois 205Larchmont 201Library 207Lucerne 208Mandarin Oriental 206Mansfield 206Mark 208Mercer 201Metro 206Milburn 208Morgana 208Murray Hill Inn 204New York Bed

and Breakfast 211Off SoHo Suites 201Paramount 206Parker Meridien 206Pickwick Arms 208Plaza 32, 148, 206Plaza 32Portland Square 206Ritz-Carlton 201Riverside Tower 208Roger Smith 208Roger Williams 204Royalton 33, 206Salisbury 206Seventeen 204Shelburne Murray Hill 208SoHo Grand 201Southgate Tower 206Stanford 206Thirty Thirty 204Thirty-One 204Time 207TriBeCa Grand 201 W 208Waldorf Astoria 33, 150, 208Wales 209Warwick 207Washington Square 204Welcott 207Wellington 207West Union Square 205Westin (Times Square) 207Westpark 207Whitehouse 209 Wyndham 207

Houston Street 97

iImmigration Museum 69information 216International Center of

Photography 136Internet access 220Intrepid Sea-Air-Space

Museum 138Irving Place 128Isamu Noguchi Garden

Museum 191

jJames, Henry 49, 112Jefferson Market

Courthouse 114 Jewish Heritage

Museum 74Jewish Museum 165JFK airport 215

kKerouac, Jack 48, 123, 179kids’ New York 42King Kong 46

lLaGuardia airport 215Lennon, John 158, 171Lincoln Center for the

Performing Arts 56, 171listings magazines 216Little Italy 17, 85, 88Little Italy and

Chinatown 86Little Singer Building 91Lloyd Wright, Frank 164London Terrace

Apartments 122lost property 221Lower East Side 17, 97Lower East Side 98Lower East Side Tenement

Museum 19, 97

mMacy’s department

store 59, 125Macy’s Thanksgiving Day

Parade 62, 220Madison Avenue 21, 148, 165Madison Square 130Madison Square Garden 123Mahayana Buddhist

Temple 87mail 219

Con ten t s I ndex and Sma l l P r i n t

Page 231: + New York

Malcolm X 180Merchant’s House

Museum 103Met Life Building 24, 150 Metropolitan Life Building 130Metropolitan Museum of Art

11, 18, 161, 170Metropolitan Opera

House 171Midtown East 8, 144Midtown East 145Minuit, Peter 74MoMA QNS 191money 219Morgan Library 131Morningside Heights 171,

175, 177, 178Morris-Jumel Mansion 184Mott Street 85Mount Morris Park 181Mount Morris Park Historical

District 181Mount Vernon Hotel Museum

& Garden 166Mulberry Street 88Municipal Building 81Murray Hill 128Murray Hill 129Museo del Barrio 184Museum of Modern

Art 10, 147museums

American Craft 147American Financial

History 73American Indian Museum 74American Museum of Natural

History 19, 173Asia Society 166Brooklyn Museum

of Art 186Children’s Museum of

Manhattan 42,174Chinese in the

Americas 86City of New York 165Cooper-Hewitt National

Design 164Forbes Magazine

Galleries 115Fraunces Tavern 75Frick Collection 19, 161Guggenheim 164Immigration 69International Center of

Photography 136Intrepid 138Isamu Noguchi Garden 191Jewish Heritage 74Jewish 165Lower East Side

Tenement 19, 97Merchant’s House 103

Metropolitan Museum of Art 11, 18, 170, 161

MoMA QNS 190

Mount Vernon Hotel 166Moving Image 190Museo del Barrio 184Museum of

Modern Art 10, 147National Academy

of Design 164New York Transit 43, 186New-York Historical

Society 173NYPD 75P.S.1 Contemporary Art

Center 191Skyscraper 75South Street Seaport 76Studio Museum

in Harlem 181Television and Radio 147The Cloisters 184Whitney Museum

19, 165

nNational Academy

of Design 164New Year’s Eve

celebrations 63, 220New York Aquarium 43, 189New York Botanical

Garden 14, 192New York City

Police Museum 75New York Harbor 67New York Life Building 130New York Public

Library 144New York State Theater 171New York Transit

Museum 43, 186Newark airport 215New-York Historical

Society 173NoLita 91

oOld Police Headquarters 88Old St Patrick’s Cathedral 88Orchard Street 21, 97Outer boroughs 186Outer boroughs 187

pP.S.1 Contemporary

Art Center 191Paine, Thomas 114parades 62, 220

Park Avenue 148, 166Park Slope 188Parker, Dorothy 49, 136parking 217parks 14Bowling Green 74

Bryant Park 145Carl Schurz Park 167Central Park 8, 11, 155City Hall Park 79Gramercy Park 15, 129Mount Morris 181Prospect Park 15, 188Riverside Park 15, 174Tompkins Square 106Washington Square

Park 49, 112Patchin Place 115Penn Station 123phones 219Pier 17 75Plaza Hotel 32, 148, 206Powell, Adam

Clayton, Jr 18Prospect Park 15, 188

qQueens 186, 190, 193, 195,

197, 198

rRadio City Music Hall 28, 146religious services 222restaurants (by area)

Central Park 160Chelsea 125Chinatown and

Little Italy 89East Village 107Financial District 77Greenwich Village 117Harlem 185Lower East Side 100Midtown East 153outer boroughs 193SoHo 94Times Square and Theater

District 139TriBeCa 82Union Square, Gramercy Park,

and Murray Hill 132Upper East Side 168Upper West Side 177restaurants 360 19371 Clinton Fresh

Food 51,100Al Di Là 194Amy Ruth’s 185Aquagrill 94

229IN

DEX

Con ten t s I ndex and Sma l l P r i n t

Page 232: + New York

IND

EX230

Aquavit 51, 139Artisanal 132Aureole 168B & H Dairy 107Babbo 116 Balthazar 51, 94Bamonte’s 194Barking Dog

Luncheonette 168Barney Greengrass

61, 175Bayard 77Bayou 185Big Wong 89Bistro du Nord 168Bistro St Mark’s 194Blue Fin 139Blue Hill 117Blue Ribbon Sushi 94Bo Ky 89Boat Basin Café 177BondSt 50, 108Bottino 125Bread Bar at Tabla 132Brick Lane Curry House 108Bridge Café 77Bright Food Shop 125Bryant Park Grill 139Bubby’s 61, 82Café con Leche 177Café de Bruxelles 117Café des Artistes 177Café Libowitz 94Café Luxembourg 177Calle Ocho 177Carmine’s Bar and Grill 77Carnegie Deli 140Cendrillon 95Chez Brigitte 117Chez Es Saada 108Chez Napoleon 140Churrascaria 140City Bakery 132City Crab 132City Hall 83Coffee Shop 31, 132Comfort Diner 153Congee Village 100Copeland’s 185Corner Bistro 117Crab Shanty 194Daniel 168Danube 83Delmonico’s 77Diner 194Dock’s Oyster Bar 177Dok Suni 108Dominick’s 194Dos Caminos 95E.A.T. 168Ecco-la 168Eisenberg’s Sandwich

Shop 132El Pollo 169Elaine’s 169Ellias Corner 195Empire Diner 31, 125

Emporio Brazil 140Enoteca I Trulli 132Excellent Dumpling House 89F&B 125Fine & Schapiro 177First 108Florent 31, 118Four Seasons 153Gennaro 177Good Enough

to Eat 61, 177Gotham Bar & Grill 51, 118Gramercy Tavern 132Grand Central Oyster

Bar 12, 153Grange Hall 118Grimaldi’s 195Gustavino’s 169Hatsuhana 153Heidelburg 169Henry’s End 195Home 60, 118Hunan Park 178Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar 108Jackson Diner 195Joe Allen’s 140John’s Pizzeria 118Judson Grill 140Jules 108Junior’s 195Katz’s Deli 13, 101Kelley & Ping 95Killmeyer’s Old

Bavaria Inn 195L’Absinthe 169L’Acajou 133L’Ecole 95La Caridad 178La Luncheonette 125Le Bernadin 141Le Zinc 83Les Halles 77, 133Lombardi’s 89Mama’s Food Shop 108Mare 125Mario’s 195Maroon’s 125Mary’s Fish Camp 118Mee Noodle Shop

and Grill 153Mercer Kitchen 95Mermaid Inn 109Mesa Grill 133Mocca 169Montrachet 83Moroccan Star 196Mrs Stahl’s 196Nathan’s 196New York Noodletown 89Nha Trang 89Nobu 83 Nyonya 89Odeon 83Odessa 196Old Homestead 125Ollie’s 141Oscar’s BBQ 185

Otto Enoteca and Pizzeria 118

Ouest 178Paris Café 77Pearl Oyster Bar 118Peasant 95Peking Duck House 89Peter Luger’s Steak

House 13, 196Petrossian 141Picholine 178Ping’s Seafood 90Pink Teacup 118Planet Thailand 196Primorski 196Prune 109Raoul’s 95Red Cat 125Republic 133Rialto 95River Café 196Rocking Horse 125Rolf’s 133Rosen’s Delicatessen 153Sala Thai 169Sammy’s Roumanian

Steakhouse 101Schiller’s 101SEA Thai 109Second Avenue Deli 13, 109Shabu Tatsu 109Shanghai Cuisine 90Smith & Wollensky 153Solera 154Sosa Borella 83Spring Street Natural

Restaurant 96Stage Deli 30, 141Star Foods 109Sugiyama 141Sweet ‘n’ Tart 90Sylvia’s 185Tavern on the Green 160Teresa’s 197Terrace in the Sky 178Thailand 90Thalia 141Tom’s 47, 178Tortilla Flats 118Trattoria dell’Arte 141TriBeCa Grill 84Tripoli 197Uncle Mo’s Burrito & Taco

Shop 133Union Square Café 133Vera Cruz 197Veselka 30, 109Vincent’s 90Vong 154Wallse 119WD-50 101Woo Lae Oak 96Wu Liang Ye 169

Riverside Drive 174Riverside Park 15, 174Rockefeller Center 145Rockefeller, John D. 73, 145

Con ten t s I ndex and Sma l l P r i n t

Page 233: + New York

sSaks department store 59Schomberg Center for

Research in Black Culture 181

Seagram Building 150Seinfeld 47, 178Seventh Regiment

Armory 166Shea Stadium 191Sheridan Square 114Sherman, General William

Tecumseh 148shops (by area)

Chelsea 125Chinatown and

Little Italy 88East Village 106Financial District 76Garment District 125Greenwich Village 115Lower East Side 99Midtown East 152outer boroughs 193SoHo 92Times Square 139TriBeCa 82Union Square, Gramercy Park,

and Murray Hill 131Upper East Side 167Upper West Side 175

shops 555-Seoul 92Aaron’s 193ABC Carpet and Home 131Acker, Merrall & Condit 175Alleva Dairy 88Astor Place Hair

Designers 106Barney Greengrass 175Barney’s 59, 167Bergdorf Goodman 152Blades, Board & Skate 176Bloomingdale’s 58, 167Bowne & Co 76C.O Bigelow

Pharmacy 115Caswell-Massey Ltd 152Century 21 76, 193Chelsea Market 125Citarella 176Complete Traveler 131Dave’s Army and

Navy Store 125Dean and Deluca 27, 92DiPaolo Dairy 88Dylan’s Candy Bar 167East Village Cheese Store 107Generation Records 116Guss’s Lower East Side

Pickles 99H&H Bagels 176Henry Lehr 92House of Oldies 116Il Laboratorio del Gelato 99

Ina 92J&R Music and Computer

World 82JR Cigar 152Kalustyan’s 131Kam Man Food

Products 88Kate Spade 92Kate’s Paperie 93Kiehl’s 107Kossar’s Bialys 99Language 93Li-Lac 116Loehmann’s 125Lord & Taylor 131Love Saves the Day 107Macy’s 59, 125Manny’s Music 139Maxilla & Mandible 176Mixona 93MoMA Design Store 93Moss 93Murder Ink 176Murray’s Cheese

Shop 26, 116New York Yankees

Clubhouse 76Niketown 152Orwasher’s Bakery 167Oscar Wilde Memorial

Bookshop 37, 116Other Music 107Paragon Sporting Goods 131Pearl Paint Company 89Pierre Garroudi 93Print Icon 131Push 93Russ & Daughter 27, 99 Sahadi 193Saks Fifth Avenue 59, 152Screaming Mimi’s 107Seize Sur Veinte 93Shanghai Tang 167Strand Bookstore 107Strand Seaport 77Takashimaya 153Tender Buttons 167Terrence Conran 167Three Lives & Co 116Tiffany & Co 47, 59, 153Titan 193Totem Design Group 82Trash ‘n’ Vaudeville 107Urban Archeology 82Vera Wang Bridal Salon 167Village Chess Shop 116Village Comics 116William Barthman Jewelry 77Yonah Schimmel

Knish Bakery 45, 100Zabar’s 27, 176

Shrine of Elizabeth Ann Seton 75

Sixth Avenue 136Skyscraper Museum 75Smithsonian National Museum

of the American Indian 74SoHo 7, 91

SoHo 92Sony Building 148South Street Seaport 75South Street Seaport

Museum 76Spanish Harlem 180, 184St Bartholomew’s Church 150St Elizabeth 75St James’ Church 165St Luke’s-in-the-

Fields Church 113St Mark’s in-the-Bowery

Church 53, 106St Mark’s Place 106St Martin’s Episcopal

Church 181St Patrick’s Cathedral 53. 147St Patrick’s Day Parade 220St Paul’s Chapel 73St Peter’s Church 151Staten Island 186, 195Staten Island ferry 55, 67Statue of Liberty 11, 68Stock Exchange 70Stonewall Inn 36, 119Strivers’ Row 183Studio Museum

in Harlem 181subway 35, 217

ttax 222taxis 217Television and Radio

Museum 147Temple Emanu-El 53, 161Thanksgiving Day Parade 220Theater District

138, 135 Theater District 135theater tickets 55, 137theaters

Delacorte 54, 159New York State 171Symphony Space 57, 179

Theodore Roosevelt’sBirthplace 128

Thomas, Dylan 49, 120Times Square 137Times Square and Theater

District 135tipping 222TKTS booth 55, 137Tompkins Square Park 106tours 218train terminals 215TriBeCa 79TriBeCa 80Trinity Church 72Trump Tower 147Tweed Courthouse 79

231IN

DEX

Con ten t s I ndex and Sma l l P r i n t

Page 234: + New York

IND

EX232

uUnion Square 128Union Square Farmers’

Market 27 Union Square, Gramercy

Park, and Murray Hill 129United Nations 151Upjohn, Richard 73, 115, 134Upper East Side 161Upper East Side 162Upper West Side 8, 171Upper West Side 172

vVanderbilt, Cornelius 149Village Hallowe’en Parade 220

wWaldorf Astoria

Hotel 33, 150, 208Wall Street 70Washington Heights 180, 184Washington Square

Park 49, 112Washington, George 71, 75,

112, 184 weather 4websites 216West Broadway 81when to visit 4Whitney Museum of

American Art 19, 165Williamsburg 189Wollman Memorial Ice Skating

Rink (Central Park) 155Woolworth Building 25, 80World Trade Center 72, 73

yYankee Stadium 43, 192Yankee Stadium 43YMCAs 209youth hostels 209

zzoos

Bronx 43, 192Central Park 43, 155

Con ten t s I ndex and Sma l l P r i n t

Page 235: + New York

233

Con ten t s I ndex and Sma l l P r i n t

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WASHINGTONSQUARE PARK

METROPOLITANMUSEUMOF ART

RANDALL’SISLAND

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RIVERBANKSTATE PARK

UNITEDNATIONS

WTC Site

EASTRIVERPARK

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HUDSON RIVER PARK

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Clark S

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Carroll S

tF• G

Bergen

St

F• G

Broad St J•M•Z

York St

FCity Hall R•W

Rector StR•W

Franklin St1•9

Canal St1•9

Prince StN•R•W

Houston St1•9

14 St A•C•E

50 St1•9

50 StC•E

59 StColumbus Circle

A•B•C•D•1•9

66 St Lincoln Center

1•9

72 St1•2•3•9

79 St1•9

86 St1•9

96 St1•2•3•9

103 St1•9

CathedralPkwy

(110 St )1•9

116 St ColumbiaUniversity

1•9

137 StCity

College1•9

145 St 9 rush hours,

1 other times

157 St1

175 StA

181 StA

190 StA

Dyckman St A

4

Kingsbridge Rd4

Fordham Rd4

Allerton Av2•5

183 St4

Burnside Av4

176 St4

Mt Eden Av4

170 St4

174 St2•5

Bronx ParkEast

2•5

Pelham Pkwy2•5

Freeman St2•5

Simpson St2•5

E 180 St2•5

West Farms Sq

E Tremont Av2 •5

167 St4

161 St

Yankee Stadium

B •D •4

Washington Hts168 St

A•C

Lexington

Av/63 St F

14 St–U

nion Sq

L• N

• Q• R

• W• 4• 5• 6

3 Av

L 1 Av

L

8 StNYU

N•R•W

Christopher St

Sheridan Sq1•9

Canal StJ•M•N•QR•W•Z•6

Canal StA•C•E

Spring St6

Spring StC•E

W 4 StA•B•C•D•E•F•V

8 Av

L

Rooseve

lt

Isl

and

F

Long Island City/

Court Sq

G

QueensPlaza

E •R •V •G

40 S(Lowe7

33 St (Rawson St)

7

36 StR•V •G21 St

Queens-bridge

F

39 AvN•W

Steinway StR •V •G

46 R •V •G

36 AvN•W

30 AvN•W

Astoria BlvdN•W

AstoriaDitmars Blvd

N•W

23 St–Ely AvE•V

6 A

v L

14 St1•2•3•9

18 St1•9

14 St F•V

23 StF•V23 St

1•9

23 StC•E 23 St

N•R•W

23 St

6

33 St6

Hunters Point Av7

Vernon Blvd–Jackson Av

7

21 StG

Queensboro Plaza

N•W•7

45 RdCourt House Sq

7

68 StHunter College6

77 St6

86 St4•5•6

96 St6

103 St6

110 St6

Central ParkNorth (110 St) 2•3

116 St6

72 StB•C

81 St–Museum of Natural History B•C

86 St B•C

96 StB•C

103 StB•C

Cathedral Pkwy(110 St)B•C

116 StB•C

125 StA•B•C•D

125 St2•3 • M60 LaGuardia Airport

125 St4•5•6

135 StB•C

135 St2•3

116 St2•3

3 Av138 St6

Brook Av

6

Cypress Av

6

E 143 St

St Mary’s St

6145 StA•B•C•D

191 St1•9

B•D

Kingsbridge RdB•D

Fordham RdB•D

182–183 StsB•D

Tremont Av B•D

174–175 StsB•D

170 StB•D

Morris Park5

Pelham Pkwy5

167 StB•D

E 149 St6

Longwood Av6

Hunts Point Av6

Whitlock Av6

Elder Av6

Morrison– Sound View Avs 6

St Lawrence Av6

Castl6

Z6

B

Parkchester–E 177 St

6

181 St1•9

155 S

t

B

• D155 S

t

C

163 S

t

Amsterd

am Av

C

145 St3

149 S

t–Grand

Concourse

2• 4• 5Harlem148 St3

57 StF

57 St N•R•Q•W

49 StN•R•W

7 Av

B• D

• E

28 St1•9

28 St N•R•W

28 St6

Astor Pl 6

Bowery

J •M•Z

East Broadway

F

Lower East

Side

2 A

v

F• V

Bleecker St

6B’w

ay–Lafaye

tte St

B• D

• F• V

Essex

St

F• J• M

• ZDelance

y St

Grand St B•D

Jay StBorough Hall

A•C•F

Smith–

9 S

Nassau Av

G

Greenpoint Av

G

Lorim

L

M

Bedford Av

L

Sche

Lawr

BroadwayN•W

High StA•C

Whitehall StR•W

BowlingGreen

4•5

Wall St4•5 Wall St

2•3

Fulton St–Broadway Nassau

Chambers St1•2•3•9

Park Place 2•3

Chambers StJ•M•ZBrooklyn Bridge–City Hall4•5•6

Chambers St A•C

N

Borough H

all

2• 3• 4• 5

Court StM•R

34 StPenn

Station A•C•E

42 StPort AuthorityBus Terminal

A•C•E Times Sq

42 StN•Q•R•S•W•1•2•3•7•9

Grand Central42 StS•4•5•6•7

47–50 Sts/Rockefeller CtrB•D•F•V

34 StPenn

Station1•2•3•9

34 StHerald Sq

B•D•FN•Q•R•V•W

42 St/Bryant PkB•D•F•V

5 Av 7

Lexington Av/53 St E•V

59 St 4•5•6

51 St 6

Lexington Av/59 StN•R•W

5 Av/53 StE•V

5 Av/59 StN•R•W

125 St1•9

168 St–Washington Hts 1•9

Dyckman St1

Inwood207 St

A

215 St1

3 Av–149 St2•5

Marble Hill225 St9 rush hours,1 other times

1•9

A•C•J•M•Z2•3•4•5

Intervale Av 2•5

Prospect Av 2•5

Jackson Av 2•5

138 St–GrandConcourse4•5

M60 LaGuardia Airport

M60 LGA Airport

Rector St1•9

Cortlandt St1•9

Cortlandt StR•W

SouthFerry

1•9

World TradeCenter

E

207 St 9 rush hours,1 other times

St. GeorgeStadium(game days only)

(TemporarilyClosed)

Southbound onlyn-bound

s-bound

2,3

6

BROOKLYN

MANHATTAN

QUEENS

THEBRONX

FINANCIALDISTRICT

CHINATOWN

LITTLE ITALYSOHO

TRIBECA

GREENWICHVILLAGE

CHELSEA

WESTSIDE

UPPEREASTSIDE

UPPERWESTSIDE

EASTHARLEM

HARLEM

WASHINGTONHEIGHTS

EASTVILLAGE

LOWEREAST SIDE

NOHO

HIGHBRIDGE

FORDHAM

TREMONT

MORRISANIA

THE HUB

HUNTS POINTMOTT HAVEN

SOUNDVIEW

PARKCHESTER

ASTORIA

LONGISLAND

CITY

ROOSEVELTISLAND

REDHOOK

CARROLLGARDENS

BROOKLYNHEIGHTS

WILLIAMSBURG

FORT G

GREENPOINT

FULTONLANDING

NAVYYARD

NEW YORKTRANSIT MUSEUM

Key

B 4

Station served by one of two lines

Full timeservice

Part timeservice

All trains stop(local and express service)

Local service onlyNights andweekendsonly

Free subway transfer

Free out-of-system subwaytransfer (MetroCard only)

Terminal

Normal service Special rush hour orexpress service

Commuter rail service

6

Station

Name

A•C

6

MTA New York City Subwaywith bus, railroad, and ferry connections

The subway operates 24 hours a day, seven days a week, but not all lines operate at all times. For detailed information, consult Passenger Information Centers in stations or call our Travel Information Center (24 hours) at 718-330-1234. Non-English-speaking customers call 718-330-4847 (7AM to 7PM).

To show service more clearly, geography on this map has been modified. © 2004 Metropolitan Transportation AuthorityDesign: Michael Hertz Associates, NYC

visit www.mta.info

MTA New York City TransitSubway in four boroughs, buses in five boroughs, and the MTA Staten Island Railway

February 2004

Page 248: + New York

LINCOLNTUNNEL

TO N.J.

E. 48TH ST.W. 48TH ST.

QUEENS MIDTOWN TUNNEL

EA

ST

RI

VE

RD

RI

VE

T WE

LF

TH

AV

EN

UE S

IX

TH

AV

EN

UE

E A S T 1 4 T H S T R E E T

E. 42ND ST.

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AVEN

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EL

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AV

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TE

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HA

VE

NU

E

EIG

HTH

AVE

NU

E

E. 25TH ST.

TW

EL

FT

HA

VE

NU

E

E. 14TH ST.

W. 23RD ST.

W. 22ND ST.

W. 21ST ST.

W. 20TH ST.

W. 19TH ST.

W. 18TH ST.

W. 17TH ST.

W. 16TH ST.

W. 15TH ST.

W. 14TH ST.

W. 21ST ST.

W. 20TH ST.

W. 19TH ST.

W. 18TH ST.

W. 17TH ST.

W. 16TH ST.

W. 15TH ST.

W. 14TH ST.

TE

NT

HA

VE

NU

E

NI

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HA

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NU

E

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HTH

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E

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NU

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FI

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NU

E

E . 16TH ST.

E. 23RD ST.

E. 21ST ST.

E. 20TH ST.

E. 19TH ST.

E. 18TH ST.

E. 17TH ST.

E. 15TH ST.

W. 23RD ST.

W. 22ND ST.

PARK

AVEN

UE

SOU

TH

IRV

ING

PLA

CE

FI

RS

TA

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NU

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BR

OA

DW

AY

TH

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AV

EN

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SE

CO

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AV

EN

UE

E. 22ND ST.

E. 34TH ST.

E. 33RD ST.

E. 32ND ST.

E. 31ST ST.

E. 30TH ST.

E. 29TH ST.

E. 28TH ST.

E. 27TH ST.

E. 26TH ST.

E. 24TH ST.

LE

XI

NG

TO

NA

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NU

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MA

DIS

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AV

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SE

CO

ND

AV

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TH

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DA

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NU

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E. 47TH ST.

E. 46TH ST.

E. 45TH ST.

E. 44TH ST.

E. 43RD ST.

E. 4OTH ST.

E. 39TH ST.

E. 38TH ST.

E. 37TH ST.

E. 36TH ST.

E. 35TH ST.

FI

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SE

CO

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AV

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W. 47TH ST.

W. 46TH ST.

W. 45TH ST.

W. 43RD ST.

W. 42ND ST.

W. 38TH ST.

W. 37TH ST.

W. 36TH ST.

W. 32ND ST.

W. 31ST ST.

W. 30TH ST.

W. 29TH ST.

FI

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HA

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W. 47TH ST.

W. 46TH ST.

W. 45TH ST.

W. 44TH ST.

W. 43RD ST.

W. 42ND ST.

W. 41ST ST.

W. 40TH ST.

W. 39TH ST.

W. 38TH ST.

W. 37TH ST.

W. 36TH ST.

W. 35TH ST.

W. 34TH ST.

W. 33RD ST.

NIN

TH

AV

EN

UE

W. 31ST ST.W. 30TH ST.

W. 29TH ST.

W. 28TH ST.

W. 26TH ST.

W. 25TH ST.

W. 24TH ST. EIG

HT

HA

VE

NU

E

EL

EV

EN

TH

AV

EN

UE W. 30TH ST.

W. 28TH ST.

W. 27TH ST.

W. 26TH ST.

W. 25TH ST.

W. 24TH ST.

COLUMBUSCIRCLE

E. 66TH ST.

AM

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W. 51ST ST.

W. 50TH ST.

W. 49TH ST.

W. 56TH ST.

W. 55TH ST.

W. 53RD ST.

W. 54TH ST.

W. 56TH ST.

W. 55TH ST.

W. 57TH ST.

BR

OA

DW

AY

WE

ST

EN

DA

VE

NU

E

W. 59TH ST.

BR

OA

DW

AY

W. 52ND ST.

W. 66TH ST.

W. 65TH ST.

W. 64TH ST.

W. 61ST ST.

W. 60TH ST.

W. 58TH ST.

FREEDOMPLACE

W. 72ND ST.

W. 73RD ST.

W. 69TH ST.

W. 70TH ST.

W. 71ST ST.

F.

D.

R.

DR

IV

E

YO

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AV

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FI

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FIF

TH

AV

EN

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E. 73RD ST.

E. 72ND ST.

E. 71ST ST.

E. 70TH ST.

E. 69TH ST.

E. 68TH ST.

E. 67TH ST.

FI

RS

TA

VE

NU

E

E. 65TH ST.

E. 64TH ST.

E. 63RD ST.

E. 62ND ST.

E. 61ST ST.

E. 60TH ST.

E. 51ST ST.

E. 50TH ST.

E. 49TH ST.

E. 58TH ST.

E. 57TH ST.

E. 56TH ST.

E. 55TH ST.

E. 54TH ST.

E. 53RD ST.

E. 52ND ST.

Q U E E N S B O R O B R I D G E

FI

FT

HA

VE

NU

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SE

CO

ND

AV

EN

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DA

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PA

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AV

EN

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MA

DIS

ON

AV

EN

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E. 59TH ST.C E N T R A L P A R K S O U T H

TRANSVERSE ROAD NO. 1

CE

NT

RA

LP

AR

KW

ES

T

T I M E SS Q U A R E

UnitedNations

Headquarters

ChryslerBuildingCircle Line Ferry

Port AuthorityBus Terminal

ICP Midtown

New YorkPublic Library

MadisonSquareGarden

PennsylvaniaStation

GeneralPost Office

Macy’s

MetropolitanLife Building

Jacob JavitsConventionCenter

PierpontMorganLibrary

Chelsea Hotel

USS IntrepidMuseum

Empire StateBuilding

ChelseaPiers

FlatironBuilding

Met-Life(Pan Am)Building

GrandCentralStation

London TerraceApartments

Waldorf-AstoriaHotelRockefeller

Center

St. Patrick’sCathedral

Radio CityMusic Hall

DakotaApartments

The FrickCollection

AsiaSociety

Mount VernonHotel, Museum

& Garden

Bloomingdale’s

TempleEmanu-El

ZooLincolnCenter Wollman Rink

Carnegie Hall Trump Tower

CiticorpCenter

SeagramBuilding

Museum ofModern Art

Museum ofTV & Radio

Roosevelt Island Tram

NY Convention& Visitors Bureau

Plaza Hotel

Church of theTransfiguration

GeneralTheologicalSeminary

TheodoreRoosevelt’sBirthplace

BryantPark

MadisonSquare

Park

Chelsea Park

GramercyPark

UnionSquare

StuyvesantSquare

DewittClinton

Park

C e n t r a l

P a r k

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ev

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st

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Hunterspoint QueensN.J.

G A R M E N T

D I S T R I C T

C H E L S E A

M U R R AY H I L L

Q U E E N S

T H E A T E R

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MM0 800 yds

N

MIDTOWN MANHATTAN

Page 249: + New York

BO

WE

RY

EastRiver Park

EastRiver

Park

BANK ST.

W. 11TH ST.

PERRY ST.

CHARLES ST.

W. 10TH ST.

CHRISTOPHER ST.

BROOKLYN-BATTERY TUNNEL

ASTOR PLACE

HOLLAND TUNNEL

BR

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T.

GANSEVOORT ST.

HORATIO ST.

JANE ST.

W. 12TH ST.

BETHUNE ST.

W. 4TH

ST.

W. 14TH ST.

W. 13TH ST.

W. 12TH ST.

EIGH

THAV

ENUE

HU

DS

ON

ST

.

B L E E C K E R

S T R E E T

G R E E N WI C H

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MORTON ST.

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ST.

BLEECKER ST.

W E S T H O U S T O N S T R E E T

CLARKSON ST.

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WASHINGTON SQ. N. WAVERLEY PL.

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WASHINGTON SQ. S.

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ST.

W. 9TH ST.

W. 13TH ST.

W. 12TH ST.

W. 11TH ST.

W. 10TH ST.

W. 8TH ST.

W. 14TH ST.

WAVERLEY PL.

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CHARLTONSTREET

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SPRING STREET

S T. M A R K ’ S P L A C E

E. 6TH ST.

E. 7TH ST.

E. 6TH ST.

SE

CO

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AV

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F OU

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E. 12TH ST.

E. 11TH ST.

E. 10TH ST.

E. 9TH ST.

E. 14TH ST.

E. 13TH ST.

E. 12TH ST.

E. 11TH ST.

E. 10TH ST .

UN

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E. 9TH ST.

E. 8TH ST.

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STANTON STREET

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STREET

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V E S T R Y S T R E E T

L A I G H T S T R E E T

H U B E R T S T R E E T

N. MOORE ST.

SIX

THA

VEN

UE

W H I T E S T R E E T

BROOMEST.DOMINICK

ST.

LISPENARD STREET

WALKER STREET

HU

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FRANKLIN STREET

W O R T H S T R E E T

C H A M B E R S S T.

LEONARD ST.

F R A N K L I N S T R E E T

D U A N E S T R E E TR E A D E S T R E E T

WARREN STREET

PARK PLACE

BARCLAY STREET

C A N A L S T R E E T

G R A N D S T R E E T

LAFA

YE

TT

ES

TR

EE

T

CEN

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ST R

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HOWARD STREET

B A Y A R D S T R E E T

ST.

JA

ME

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PLA

CE

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PEARL ST.

CATHERINE STREET

E A S TB R O A D W

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F.

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BR

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SPRUCE STREETBEEKMAN STREET

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WHITEHALL ST

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BATT

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1ST PLACE

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TS

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PLATT STREET

CLIF

FST

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GO

LDST

REET

J O H N S T R E E TM A I D E N L A N E

PEARL

ST.BEAVER

STREET

WASHINGTON

ST.

ALBANY ST.

WASHINGTON

WILL

IAM

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PEAR

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LIBERTY ST.

WALL ST.

NEW

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RECTOR ST.

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.

AVE. OFTHE FINEST R. F. WAGNERSR. PL.

FRANKFORT STREET

DOVER ST.

BEEKMAN ST.

WAT

ERST

.FR

ONT S

T.MONROE STREET

MA D I S O N

S T R E E T

MA N H AT T A N

B R I D G E

G R A N D S T R E E T

S O U T HS T R E E T

CONFUCIUSPLAZA

MARKET

STRE

JACKSONSTREET

PIKE STREETRUTGERS ST.

MONTGOM

ERY ST.GOUVERNEUR

WATER STREET

WATER ST.

CHERRY STREET

WILLIAMSBURG

B R O O K L Y N B R I D G E

BRIDGE

STREET

STREET

CHU

RCH

STR

EET

PATCHINPLACE

COOPERSQUARE

CHATHAMSQUARE

Lower East SideTenement Museum

WoolworthBuilding

City Hall

Museum ofJewish Heritage

South StreetSeaport

New YorkStock Exchange

Trinity Church

GroundZero

St. Paul’sChapel

PoliceHQ

South St.SeaportMuseum

HaughwoutBuilding

Museum of Chinesein the Americas

Tweed Courthouse

MunicipalBuilding

FederalHall

FrauncesTavern

JeffersonMarket

Courthouse

St Luke’sChurch

GraceChurch

New YorkUniversity

ForbesMagzineGalleries

First PresbyterianChurch

Cooper Union Building

CunardBuilding

New York CityPolice Museum

WashingtonSquare Park

HamiltonFish Park

TompkinsSquare

Park

CorlearsHookParkW.H.

SewardPark

BatteryPark

BowlingGreen

ColumbusPark

FoleySquare

DuaneParkH

ud

so

n

Ri

ve

rE a s t

R i v e r

Ellis

Island

Stat

ue o

fLib

erty

Stat

enIs

land

Hoboken, New Jersey

BATTERYPARKCITY

T R I B E C A

C H I N AT O W N

L I T T L EI T A L Y

L O W E RE A S T S I D E

S O H O

G R E E N W I C HV I L L A G E

E A S TV I L L A G E

A L P H A B E T C I T Y

B R O O K L Y N

FINANCIALDISTRICT

NOLITA

M

M

M

MM

MM M

M

MM

M

M

M

M M

M

M

M MM M

MM

M

MM

M

M

M

M

M

M

M M

M

M

M M MM

M M

278

278

0 800 yds

N

DOWNTOWN MANHATTAN