© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007 Trimoist 24h hydration and protection

© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007

Trimoist

24h hydration and protection


Concept of the Moisture Balance Theory

water

lamellar lipids

humectants

Trimoist

water

NMF

skinBrick and

mortar model

Hydrolipid film Protecting film


Structure of the Skin

protecting film

lamellar lipid barrier

humectants


Structure of the Skin

Aqueous spaceLipids

Stratum corneum Lipid layerIntercellular space

CeramidesPhospholipidsTriglyceridesFatty acidsCholesterol

Corneocytes


Protein-Glycation

frying, baking, roasting

Maillard-Reaction

Non-enzymatic interaction of sugars and proteins at high temperatures or over a long time

Brown color

skin

Protein glycation

Collagen and elastin react with sugars -> AGEs (advanced glycation endproducts)

Loss of elasticty, dull and wrinkled skin


Result of Skin Glycation

• Irreversible cross-links between adjacent protein molecules

• Cross-linking significantly contributes to the stiffening and loss of elasticity found in aged tissues


Collagen CarnosineSugarCollagen fibre

Cross-linked and stiffened collagen

With Carnosine: Collagen fibers are protected and stay elastic

Formation of AGE's


Glycation and Diabetes

People with diabetes, who have high glucose levels, show accelerated aging. Results already in young people:

• stiffening connective tissue (collagen) • hardened arteries• clouded eyes• loss of nerve function• less efficient kidneys


Formation of AGEs

+

CO O

(CHOH)4

CH2 OH NH2 NH

CH

(CHOH)4

CH2 OH

NH

CH2

(CHOH)3

C O

CH2 OH

glucose

protein Schiff base A m adori pro duct

NN

+Lysine

Lysine

N

N

N +N

H

Arginine

LysineCHNH C

O(CH2 )4

NH

CH2

COOH

advanced glycation end products

C M L pentosidine M O LD


Anti-Glycation

N

NH

O

NH2N

C

OHO

H

Carnosine

• naturally occurring • a peptide-like compound with a free amino group• reacts with the aldehyde or ketone group of reducing sugars

Competitive inhibitor of AGE's


Carnosine Prevents Formation of MDA

UV-A

Lipidperoxidation

Malondialdehyde (MDA)

Protein carbonylation, AGE formation

Carnosine


Active factors in Trimoist

1 Protecting film • CM-Glucan Protecting film, improves skin elasticity, stimulates self protecting capacity of the skin

2 Lamellar lipid structur

• Stearyl lactate• Cetyl alcohol• Oleic acid triglyceride• Phytosterols• Vitamin EAcetate

Form a basic lamellar lipid structure in water

Enhance the barrier function of the lamellar lipid layer

3 Humectants • Glycerin • Lactate

Bind high levels of water

+ Anti-Glycation • Carnosine Reacts with reducting sugars and thus inhibits formation of AGEs


Increase in Skin Hydration

0.00

4.00

8.00

12.00

16.00

20.00

after 3 days after 5 days

Incr

ease

in s

kin

hydr

atio

n (%

)

S-054

5% Hygroplex 5% Trimoist


Increase in Skin Firmness

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5.00

10.00

15.00

20.00

25.00

30.00

35.00


Incr

ea

se in

ski

n f

irmn

ess

(%

)


S-054


Increase in Skin Smoothness

0.00

1.00

2.00

3.00

4.00

5.00

6.00

7.00

8.00


Incr

ea

se in

ski

n s

mo

oth

ne

ss (

%)

S-054



Increase in Skin Hydration

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

7 days 14 days

Incr

ea

se in

ski

n h

ydra

tion

[%

]

Hydrogel + 1% Trimoist



Hydrogel + 5% HygroplexS-058


24 h hydration effect

20

25

30

35

40

45

50

55

60

65

0 2 4 6 8 12 24

hours afterapplication

mo

istu

re[a

. u

.]

untreated

emulsionwith 2%Trimoist

*

**

*

**

p<0.05 versusuntreated

20

25

30

35

40

45

50

55

60

65

0 2 4 6 8 12 24

afterapplication

mo

istu

re[a

. u

.]

untreated


*

**

*

**


20

25

30

35

40

45

50

55

60

65

0 2 4 6 8 12 24

afterapplication

mo

istu

re[a

. u

.]

untreated


*

**

*

**


20

25

30

35

40

45

50

55

60

65

0 2 4 6 8 12 24

afterapplication

mo

istu

re[a

. u

.]

untreated


*

**

*

**

* p<0.05 versusuntreated

S-063


Benefits for R & D Staff

1. Trimoist is an active suitable for a great variety of cosmetic topics:

- Moisturizing- Anti-Aging- Firmness- Protection- Anti-Glycation

2. Trimoist in an active containing a large number of up-to date ingredients:

- lamellar lipids- NMF/Humectants- Protecting Polysaccharide- Phytosterols- Dipeptide (Carnosine)


Benefits for R & D Staff

3. Trimoist in an active documented with a large number of dermatological studies :

- Skin Hydration- Skin Elasticity- Skin Smoothing- Film Protection- Anti-Glycation- Skin Regeneration- Antioxidant Status- Protection against oxidative stress


Résumé

Trimoist- the 3-step moisturizing system supports all three elements of the skin's own moisture balance system:

1. Protecting film

CM-Glucan enhances the skin's own defence system and builds a superior protecting film.

2. Lamellar Lipid barrier

Skin-like Lamellar Lipids enhance the barrier function of the lipid layer in the epidermis to boost the moisture barrier.

3. Humectants

Glycerin and Lactate mimic the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin to provide an instant burst of hydration.

Carnosine

prevents the cross-linking and stiffening of collagen by glycation - the technical term for the process that leads to a loss of skin-elasticity


Trimoist

…keeps skin at its best: softer, smoother, even-toned, visibly less lined.

Hydrate and protect your skin with the 3-Step Moisturizing System of Trimoist…


0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Sq

ua

len

e p

ero

xid

es

[un

its C

L]

nt nt 0% 0,04% 0,2%

CM-Glucan

in o/w emulsions

nt UV-A 10 J/cm2

CM-Glucan: Photo Protection


CM-Glucan: Film Protection

0% 0.1% 0.4% 0.04% 0%0

20

40

60

80

Pro

tect

ion

re

lativ

e t

o u

ntr

ea

ted

ski

n [

%]

hydrogel o/w emulsion

CM-Glucan

Ski

n h

um

idity

Documents

© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007 Trimoist 24h hydration and protection