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F O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / M A R C H 2 1 , 2 0 1 6 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S
PRIMARY ACTIONSWhy presidentialcandidates’ wordson trade & taxes scare the industry
HAVINGA BLASSCreative chief Chris Benz on fashion faves & going grunge
TOUGH LUCK How hard calls led startup execs to better business
LOCAL RANGE
MADE IN AMERICA
A celebration of the footwear leaders making shoes in America. Here, Lucchese’s Derek boot showcases Lone Star state craftsmanship.
MADE INSPAIN
FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]
THE P OWER OF CONTENT
ISSUE May 9 / AD CLOSE April 27
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16Broken Homme’s two-tone boot, made in Los Angeles.
ON THE COVER
Photographed by JONATHON KAMBOURIS
INSIDER
7 The Big Issues What industry insiders have
to say about the 2016 election.
10 FN Spy March Madness bracket predictions
and Isaac Mizrahi’s career retrospective.
12 What’s Trending The AAFA talks politics,
while Kylie Jenner unveils her Puma campaign.
14 Caleres Stays Solid Analysts on how the
company tackled a tough Q4.
15 DSW’s Reboot The company’s CEO readies
the firm for the next phase of growth.
FEATURES
16 On the Road FN tours the country’s many
domestic manufacturing hubs.
MARKETPLACE
25 Shoe of the Week Comme des Garçons
launches a strong defense with an armored
men’s shoe.
26 Good Taste Bill Blass creative director Chris
Benz talks hometown haunts and vintage finds.
27 Craft Union Junya Watanabe shares the story
behind his latest fall collaboration.
28 Thread Counts How a men’s e-tailer is
dipping its toe into the branded shoe business.
29 Closet Case Carolina Panther Cortland
Finnegan shows off his enviable shoe collection.
30 Speed Demons Men’s brands take an
arctic turn this fall with hiker styles.
31 Burning Question Direct-to-consumer
execs dish on their toughest calls so far.
32 First Look Take a sneak peek at Laurence
Dacade’s fashion-forward men’s line.
Michael Atmore Editorial Director
Neil Weilheimer Managing EditorKatie Abel Global News DirectorElizabeth Slott Design Director
Mosha Lundström Halbert Fashion DirectorJennie Bell Features Editor
Anna-Lisa Yabsley Online Managing EditorBarbara Schneider-Levy Senior Editor, Men’s & Comfort
Sumana Ghosh-Witherspoon Senior DesignerKristen Henning Women’s Editor
Chris M. Junior Copy EditorPeter Verry Athletic & Outdoor Editor
Sheena Butler-Young Senior Associate Editor, Business Margaret Sutherlin Associate Editor
Christian Allaire Associate Fashion Editor, High-End Men’sRachael Allen Associate Web Producer
Nikara Johns Editorial AssistantErin E. Clack Contributing Editor, Children’s
CORRESPONDENTS
Samantha Conti, Natalie Theodosi London Miles Socha, Paulina Szmydke Paris Luisa Zargani, Lucie Janik Milan Amanda Kaiser Hong Kong
PHOTOGRAPHY
Ash Barhamand Photo DirectorOona Wally Bookings & Production Editor
Emily Taylor Photo Studio Coordinator George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone Photographers
ADVERTISING
Sandi Mines Vice President & Publisher
Lauren Schor Associate PublisherMichelle Raskin West Coast DirectorMichele Loffman Account Director
Gina Stillman Senior Account ManagerErica Coren Account Manager
Giulia Squeri European Account Director Gomatie Sanichar Office Manager
Emanuela Altimani Senior Sales CoordinatorAnnie Belfield Sales Coordinator (Los Angeles)
DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES
Shannon Nobles Marketing DirectorCass Spencer Creative Director, MarketingCassie Leventhal Digital Media Strategist
Suzette Minetti Digital Sales PlannerChristina Mastroianni PR Coordinator
AUDIENCE MARKETING
Ellen Dealy Vice President & Senior Executive DirectorPeggy Pyle Consumer Marketing Director
Janet Menaker Senior Director, Digital Marketing & Strategic DevelopmentRandi Segal Senior Director, Institutional Sales
Suzanne Berardi Senior Online Manager Tamra Febesh Senior Marketing Manager
Lauren Busch Associate Marketing Manager
PRODUCTIONKevin Hurley Production DirectorJohn Cross Production Manager
PREPRESS PRODUCTION
Alex Sharfman Digital Imaging David Lee Chin Prepress Assembly
SUMMITS & EVENTS
Amber Mundinger Vice President, New Ventures & GMMary Ann Bacher Executive Editorial DirectorAmelia Ewert Director, Experiential Marketing
Kim Mancuso Director, Attendee SalesAlexis Coyle Director, Sponsorship
FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC
Michael Atmore Editorial Director of FN & Director of Brand Development Ron Wilson Director, European Operations
FAIRCHILD MEDIA AND FN ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED
BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION
Built in America, for America’s Best.
Official Aprés Ski Boot Supplier
to the U.S. Ski Team
NASIR SOBHANIRECOVERING ADDICT AND STREET BARBER
HE CONNECTS WITH HOMELESS PEOPLE THROUGH THE BELIEF THAT A CLEAN CUT CAN INSPIRE A CLEAN START...
LOOK GOOD, FOR GOOD.
Introducing THE COURAGEOUS CLASS at KennethCole.com
FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]
ISSUE April 11 / CLOSE March 30
Play Hard. Work Harder.
WORK BOOT
I N S I D E R
Why the shoe industry is riveted by the presidential primaries.
By Margaret Sutherlin
The Big Issues
s the 2016 presidential primaries
turn into one of the most unpre-
dictable and anti-establishment
races in decades, footwear execu-
tives say they’re concerned about
future business, thanks in large part to candi-
dates’ wide-ranging positions on foreign trade.
The race for the White House — with busi-
nessman Donald Trump and former Secretary of
State Hillary Clinton the frontrunners — comes
at a time when the industry is hoping Congress
will approve the cornerstone of President
Barack Obama’s economic legacy: the Trans-
Pacific Partnership trade agreement, or TPP.
According to estimates by the Footwear Dis-
tributors and Retailers of America, the industry
could save as much as $6 billion in tariffs in the
first decade if the deal goes through.
But the controversial 12-nation agreement
has served as a lightning rod for protectionist
trade policy talk on the campaign trail.
“[Voters are] responding to the dysfunction
and lack of action in Washington the past eight
years, a global landscape that has a lot more
volatility and a slow-burn recovery. I think it’s
driven people to the edges,” said Blake Krueger,
CEO, chairman and president of Wolverine
World Wide. “I’m very concerned that if TPP
isn’t passed now and goes to the next president
the passage will be more difficult.”
In particular, candidates Trump, Sen. Bernie
Sanders and Clinton use anti-trade rhetoric
in most of their speeches. With 98 percent of
A
The next primary elections are in Arizona, Idaho and Utah on March 22. 7
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A U.S. International Trade Commission report on TPP is expected to be released on May 18. 8 INSIDER
Fashion Votes on Instagram
U.S. shoes imported, such
positions could potentially
become damaging. Sen. Ted
Cruz has said he won’t vote for TPP if it comes up. Only
Ohio Gov. John Kasich has said he supports the deal.
“If the pendulum swings from full trade liberalization
to increasing import duties like some candidates have
proposed, then it would have a much more dramatic and
negative impact on not just the industry, but on the con-
sumer, too,” said Matt Priest, president of the FDRA.
Several business leaders voiced similar concerns.
“We have politicians out there using TPP as a piñata to
bolster their popularity because it sounds really good to
the average American,” said Greg Tunney, president and
CEO of Ohio-based RG Barry. “It’s sort of the dirty secret
in D.C. I haven’t met anyone yet who has said [free trade
is] bad for footwear and that they believe in people pay-
ing more for shoes.”
While Congress’ approval of TPP was contentious from
the start, especially with a shortened congressional calen-
dar and campaign distractions, experts said they’re feel-
ing pressure to get the deal passed as soon as possible.
“Right now, [the candidates] all have a problem with
the proposed TPP, but I haven’t heard specifics about
their objections other than the sound bite,” said Rick
Muskat, principal of Deer Stags. “On the Democratic
side, it’s that it’s costing the U.S. factory jobs. On the
other side, they’re saying the administration negotiated
a terrible deal, but there is no substance or policy behind
[those assertions].”
Sanders, who has been consistent in his anti-trade
stance, said he is willing to repeal the 1994 NAFTA trade
deal. He also added that TPP legislation would be dead
on arrival under his administration — a point that largely
led him to a primary victory in Michigan.
Clinton, meanwhile, has changed her support for free
trade. Just last week at a rally in Ohio, she said: “When I
saw what was in [TPP], it was clear to me that there were
too many loopholes and too many opportunities for folks
to be taken advantage of.”
Industry watchers said Clinton’s change of heart
was disappointing because she served in the admin-
istration that brokered TPP. Some players hoped she
might move back to the center on trade once the pres-
sure of pleasing the electorate was over.
Even on the Republican side — the stronghold of
free-trade policy — Trump has argued for a wall along the
Mexico border, which would hinder U.S. trade relations
with its footwear-producing neighbor. Trump also has
proposed a 45 percent tariff on imported Chinese goods.
“Free trade is important because whether you’re a de-
signer, merchandiser or retail analytics person, your job
is reliant on having free trade. If we have to pay higher
tariffs, it means we hire less people,” said Tunney.
To that end, the National Retail Federation estimated
about 7 million retail jobs are directly tied to free trade.
Footwear executives also said they fear an anti-trade
administration would hurt domestic manufacturing and
business development in the U.S. — easily a sore spot
since American-made footwear has slowly risen in the
past five years.
Nike generated headlines last summer by promis-
ing 10,000 manufacturing jobs in the U.S. over the next
decade should TPP be approved.
While executives noted more jobs would be created
with liberalized trade, they said the government must
equally pursue improving the nation’s infrastructure.
From roads and interstates to key ports, the U.S. lags
behind other nations, and manufacturers know it.
“For trade, our ports are in need of work,” said Mus-
kat. “Our capacity just isn’t there for the volume. The
foundation of a strong economy is strong infrastructure.”
Executives also pointed to tax code reform for busi-
ness development. The U.S. has the highest corporate tax
in the world, and it’s no surprise that industries are mov-
ing headquarters off-shore.
“We have made the U.S. the most expensive place in
the world to do business or be headquartered. We need
to stop using the tax code for political, social or lobby-
ing reasons,” said Krueger. Simplifying the code, limiting
deductions and finding a bipartisan way to bring back
companies that have moved abroad were key to future in-
vestment, said executives.
“We have politicians out there using TPP as a piñata to bolster their popularity because it sounds good to the average American.”RG Barry CEO Greg Tunney
PRABAL GURUNG “Eagerly awaiting 2016. Madame President, @Hillary Clinton you are my champion. You have my vote.”
IVANKA TRUMP “My father has always taught me to think big. Today, he set his sights higher than ever before. I was incredibly honored to introduce him.”
STEVEN KOLB “That time in 2008 when @dvf & I went to Washington to lobby for copyright protec-tion with then Sen. Clinton. She’s got my vote. #hillary”
EMILY RATAJKOWSKI “Super Tuesday is here! If you’re in one of the 13 states voting today, make sure to get out there and vote. #feel thebern #supertuesday”
Bernie Sanders, Hillary Clinton
Ted Cruz, John Kasich, Donald Trump
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OPENING NIGHT INDUSTRY EVENTTO BENEFIT TWO TEN
JUNE 7 | BRYANT PARK GRILLEVENT DETAILS AT FFANY.ORG
@FFANYSHOESHOWFUTURE DATES:AUG 2�4 | NOV 30�DEC 2
10 INSIDER
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Find out who shoe execs and designers are betting on in their brackets, including their top picks for the March Madness fi nals.
Mike Shirey, CEO, Highline United“I usually do four brackets, but my fi rst is my best! Oklahoma versus Virginia in the fi nals — I’m rooting for VA because I was born there.”
Matt Bernson, designer“I did a bracket so I can cast my long-shot vote. I went with Indiana and Kansas. It’s going to be a tough year for Indiana, but it is my alma mater and I am hoping for the best. I will watch the IU games and then wait to follow the fi nal four games when they start.”
Mark Northrop, VP, Chinese Laundry“I do one bracket every year with about 40 others, mostly in the shoe industry, but I haven’t won it yet. I always root for Cincinnati to win, but I picked Kansas and Michigan State for the fi nal two and KU to win it all.”
Chris Lidner, President, Keds“I do a bracket every year in our offi ce, which benefi ts the Saucony Run for Good Founda-tion in the battle against childhood obesity. By the way, my record is terrible, but at least the money goes to a good cause. My brother-in-law is a Kentucky alum, so I’ve got to go with them. Plus, I’d love to see them go undefeated and win the championship for the fi rst time since Indiana did it in the ’70s.”
Game Time Industry insiders take a shot at predicting
the winner of the NCAA championship.
Museum Mile Isaac Mizrahi is putting his best foot forward at an exhibit of his work at The Jewish Museum in New York. Titled “Isaac Mizrahi: An Un-ruly History,” the retrospec-tive, running through Aug. 7, features iconic apparel, accessories and footwear from his 30-year career. Highlights include a futuristic lace-up pump on a metal spi-ral heel and a whimsical spin on a rain shoe that combines a classic pump with a plastic waterproof topper.
Isaac Mizrahi& shoes from spring 2010
By Kristen Henning With contributions from FN Staff
Fall Hits Frances Valentine has unveiled its second collection. Kate Valentine — previously known as Kate Spade — and husband Andy had fun playing with textiles for fall ’16. “The focus was on mixing materials,” said Valentine. “All of the details can stand alone but fused together make an interesting shoe. We used our favorite materials, like shiny metallics, animal-printed calf hair and glitter.” Standouts included fur pom-pom pumps and boots in calf hair or wool plaids.
Herschel Walker
Spotted Actress Shailene Woodley hit the red carpet this week to celebrate the premiere of “Allegiant,” the third fi lm in the dystopian book-to-movie “Divergent” series. Most of the cast chose subdued looks in black or white, but Woodley wowed in a pair of graphic two-tone pumps by Casadei paired with an Elie Saab jumpsuit.
Health ProgramAt 54 years old, sports icon Herschel Walker is sticking to what made him great. The Heisman trophy winner, MMA competitor and former Olym-pian, who was in Washington, D.C., last week lobbying Congress about the PHIT Act, told Spy that every morning he still does his legendary workout of 1,500 push-ups and 3,500 sit-ups. “I learned those exercises when I was a kid, and they got me fi t and gave me the confi dence to ac-complish all of my goals,” he said. And what’s he wearing for all that intense training? Adidas shoes and Franklin Sports apparel.
Fall ‘16 style
Shailene Woodley
As a dramatic primary race continued to unfold and President Obama named his Supreme Court pick, footwear and apparel leaders gathered in Washington, D.C., at the AAFA Executive Summit last week. While the passage of the Trans-Pacific Partnership trade bill was a priority for many, execs also talked
about their strategies for expanding their own businesses. The Shoes of Prey founders Jodie Fox, Michael Fox and Mike Knapp opened the event. The team discussed the growth of their custom platform, 3-D printing advances and their evolving partnership with Nordstrom. Celebrated Washington Post journalist Bob Woodward also gave the audience insight into this year’s race for the White House.
Vans Kicks Off 50th Anniversary PartyTo honor its 50th birthday, Vans celebrated last week with events in London, Austin, Texas, and New York. Erykah Badu headlined in Austin as part of the festivities, which also included DIY workshops and appearances from Vans ambassadors. At the House of Vans in Brooklyn, New York, Nas and Yeasayer performed, and Vans’ own Kevin Bailey and Steve Van Doren were on hand. Anniversary events are scheduled in cities from Sao Paulo to Toronto.
Kylie Jenner Unveils Puma CampaignIt seems the youngest Jenner is carving quite the niche for herself. Kylie Jenner nabbed attention last week when she showed off a closet full of Puma trainers on Snapchat, and on Monday, she revealed her new campaign for the label. It’s a big move for Puma too, which is competing with another Jenner/Kardashian athletic collaboration: Kanye West and Adidas. Puma has garnered buzz for its celebrity collaborations this year under creative director Rihanna.
Transformation Is Key Theme at AAFA Conference
QUOTES OF THE WEEKOverheard in the industry
“The CFDA Awards are the top honor in fashion, and receiving a nomination from your peers is such a humbling experience. I feel so honored to be nominated alongside such talented designers.” Paul Andrew on his CFDA Swarovski
Award nomination
“I played my whole career with Adidas, where I created so many special memories. Enjoy every moment of the adventure. I wish you all the best!” David Beckham welcoming Paul
Pogba to Adidas football
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INSTAGRAMS OF THE WEEKThe 5 most-liked photos
from @FootwearNews
“Hand-beaded beauties by @naeemkhannyc x @louboutinworld.”
“Kate Middleton wore Rupert Sanderson for Commonwealth Day.”
“Pretty platforms ruled the @rochasoficial fall ’16 collection.”
“Even the littlest feet get some sparkle at @aleksandersiradekian.”
12 Nike revealed Oklahoma City Thunder star Kevin Durant’s second signature shoe, the KD9, last week. It hits stores in June.INSIDER
“First Lady Michelle Obama steps out in Jason Wu and @manoloblahnikhq.”
“That’s the future. That’s the Hustle Hart. That’s the sign of hard work. That’s the cross-trainer that’s going to get people motivated and driven.”Kevin Hart Snapchatting his
Nike collaboration sneaker
Shoes of Prey Founders
House of Vans Kylie Jenner
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Leave the Legwork to UsReveals the latest
in hosiery, sock trends and more.
ISSUE April 25 / CLOSE April 13
FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]
THE P OWER OF CONTENT
aleres Inc. has been sticking to its playbook.
While industry-wide issues — including unpredictable weather,
a promotional holiday season and ex-cess inventory — challenged footwear firms in Q4, analysts said Caleres continued to impress them with its consistency and agility.
“Underlying fundamentals of Caleres’ overall business remain strong. The Famous Footwear and Contemporary Fashion sectors are well positioned, while the Healthy Living business is facing some near-term challenges,” Sterne Agee CRT analyst Sam Poser wrote last week, reiterating a buy rating on the stock
following the company’s fourth-quarter earnings release.
The St. Louis-based firm said its Q4 profit declined 30 percent, to $11.4 million, or 26 cents per diluted share, from $16.2 million, or 37 cents per diluted share, in the comparable period. Despite the decrease, it was a beat on analysts’ estimates for di-luted earnings per share of 23 cents.
Fourth-quarter revenue also slid 1.1 percent, to $608.7 million, from $615.4 million in the same period last year. However, same-store sales at Famous Footwear remained posi-tive, advancing 0.8 percent, while total sales for the rest of the brand portfolio also climbed 0.8 percent.
“Topping the brand callouts
during the period are contemporary [fashion] brands including Sam Edel-man, Franco Sarto, Fergie and Carlos. Scholl’s, LifeStride and Vince were flattish, with Via Spiga and Natural-izer under pressure,” CL King & Associates analyst Steve Marotta said. “The wholesale brands are expected to be constrained in the first half, with retailers’ order flow crimped by smaller open-to-buy budgets.”
Looking ahead, Marotta predicted flat sales overall for the brand portfolio in the first half with mid-single-digit growth for the back half of the current year.
As has been the case in prior quarters, analysts said, Caleres provided “conser-vative” full-year guidance, despite the earnings beat.
For FY16, Caleres predicted rev-enues in the range of $2.65 billion to $2.68 billion and diluted EPS in the range of $2 to $2.10.
“While some of this [guidance] relates to a tough environment as retailers grapple with high
inventory and less appetite for orders, management has a history of guiding conservatively only to meaningfully outperform as the year continues,” Susquehanna Financial Group LLLP analyst Christopher Svezia wrote.
Caleres President and CEO Diane Sullivan maintained an optimistic outlook for 2016, noting that she expects the contemporary fashion division to offer the most significant
boost to revenues.“While the near
term retail landscape remains uncertain, we plan to continue to execute in 2016, as we did during a challeng-ing fourth quarter and throughout 2015,” Sullivan said during the company’s fourth-quarter conference call. “Our biggest growth in 2016 will be in the contemporary
fashion space, but expect LifeStride, Naturalizer and Ryka to show good gains as we go forward.”
Famous Footwear ended the quarter with inventory up 1.2 percent while inventory in the brand portfo-lio fell 1.8 percent.
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Caleres Powers Thru Tough Q4
Analysts react to the firm navigating a challenging quarter plagued with retail woes. By Sheena Butler-Young
DianeSullivan
nalysts may not be able to get it right when it comes to their earnings predictions for DSW Inc., but the company’s
management could be a lot closer to finding a winning strategy for 2016.
After beating Wall Street’s esti-mates for fourth-quarter revenue, profit and comparable sales, newly appointed DSW CEO Roger Rawl-ins said he has implemented a new plan to accelerate growth.
“We’ll move faster to iden-tify what works and even faster with what doesn’t. We’ll expand deliberately into new markets with the right banners and store for-mat,” Rawlins said during the Q4 conference call. “We will extend our customer reach through new categories, and we will acquire new strengths to compete in ways and places that are relevant to the customer, such as our recently an-nounced acquisition of Ebuys.”
His strategy, Rawlins said, centers around “focus, tempo and disruption.” And one of the first steps will involve a deeper reach into the children’s market.
Debbie Ferrée, DSW’s vice chairman and chief merchandis-ing officer, said last week that the retailer has sold kids’ shoes online since 2010 and tested kids’ footwear in 22 stores last year. Now, the firm is ready to launch children’s footwear in 220 stores in time for the back-to-school season.
Ferrée added that revital-izing the women’s business and strengthening DSW’s position in athletic are also priorities. “DSW’s athletic business grew 13 percent and reached a record high of almost 14 percent penetration in 2015,” said Ferrée. “We’ll continue to fuel momentum in both the core athletic and the nonathletic fashion categories by putting them at the center of our customer communications and marketing campaigns this year.”
Although DSW’s Q4 profit declined more than 60 percent, to $11.8 million, or 14 cents per diluted share, the results were two times greater than analysts’ forecasts for diluted EPS of 7 cents. The firm’s revenue climbed
5 percent, to $672 million, while same-store sales rose a modest 0.7 percent, another win against esti-mates for a comp decline between 2 and 3 percent.
Prior to the earnings report, some analysts were put off by what
they viewed as aggressive promo-tions by DSW during a slow holiday season. Even with a solid Q4 in the rearview, several still question the company’s latest strategy.
“It’s good to hear about the idea, but we need to wait to see some
implementation,” Sterne Agee CRT analyst Sam Poser said. “Merchants must become more proactive than reactive, and systems must be opti-mized. Fashion and athletic trends appear to be improving, so the short term appears promising.”
A
DSW Ready for a Reboot After a Q4 earnings beat, DSW unveils a new strategy and eyes expansion in kids’. By Sheena Butler-Young
16
On The Road A fresh crop of made-in-America styles span the nation. Here, some prime examples from leading manufacturing hot spots.
Photographed by Jonathon Kambouris
Fashion Editor: Christian Allaire
A R K A N S A SProducing in the state involves tough Goodyear welts and American leathers.
FRYE’s Sabrina boot
17
C A L I F O R N I AFactories in the Golden State are a go-to for light construction and artisanal touches.
NEWBARK’s Claude loafer and THE PALATINES’ wrap-tied sandal
18
M A I N EThe state continues its shoemaking heritage with a
nod to the iconic craft of hand-sewing.
QUODDY’s boat shoe and NEW BALANCE’s 998 sneaker
M A S S A C H U S E T T SOnce the epicenter of U.S. manufacturing, Boston is still home to a number of athletic brands.
PF FLYERS Center Hi sneaker
19
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N E W Y O R KBig Apple-made shoes stand for design innovation and a cool, urban aesthetic.
ARTOLA’s lace-up boot and A.B.K’s top-stitched boot
22
M I S S I S S I P P IThe southern state continues to thrive thanks to its work
with U.S. suppliers of leathers, sheepskin and trims.NO. 6’s wooden-sole platform
23
F L O R I D AAgainst a burgeoning art scene, Miami has become a hot spot for hand-laced sandal fabrication.
JACK ROGERS’ Palm Beach sandal
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FFANY extends special appreciation to
for its longstanding commitment to
expanding outreach through QVC Presents
“FFANY Shoes on Sale” and help to generate
over $50 million for first-step research to
find a cure for breast cancer.
Salutes
QVC PRESENTS “FFANY SHOES ON SALE”
• TUNE IN •
Thursday, October 20th 6-9PM ET on QVC
• GALA AT •
Waldorf Astoria New York Tuesday, October 25th
BENEFICIARY SINCE 2000,
RECIPIENT OF OVER $5.5 MILLION
IN RESEARCH FUNDING
While the Fashion Footwear
Association of New York is well
known for setting the pace in
the shoe industry, this group
has stepped up to passionately
support the University of Michigan Comprehen-
sive Cancer Center, whose Breast Oncology Program
has received more than $5.5 million from FFANY
since 2000.
“We are tremendously grateful for FFANY, which
has been our loyal and enthusiastic partner for the
last 16 years,” said Daniel Hayes, M.D., co-director of
the U-M Breast Oncology Program. “FFANY’s grant
program nurtures unexplored, yet potentially break-
through, research ideas. Its seed funding is an essen-
tial step in moving us toward a cure.”
Hayes’ team studied why some patients respond
to certain therapies while others do not. “It’s sur-
prising that only about half of patients with forms
of breast cancer characterized as ‘estrogen receptive’
benefit from anti-estrogen therapies,” Hayes said.
“The question is further complicated by the fact that,
between different patients and even within an indi-
vidual patient, there can be multiple factors collab-
orating to help the cancer resist the therapy. We’re
working hard to understand how this happens so we
MICHIGANDATA KICKSCANCERThanks to industry-raised funds, one university is building rich databases to support more breast cancer studies.
ADVERTORIAL
can personalize treatment based on each patient’s
unique cancer profile.”
Thanks entirely to QVC Presents ‘FFANY Shoes
on Sale,’ U-M recently completed a database of tis-
sue samples from biopsies and detailed clinical
data from breast cancer patients. Containing 1,000
patient histories, the database is one of the most
complete privately-funded resources of its kind.
Researchers can use this resource to support fur-
ther breast cancer studies. “Projects like databases
might not seem exciting at first blush,” said Hayes,
“until they start to pay off. That’s what’s happening
now, thanks to FFANY.”
For breast cancer patients, every breakthrough is
exciting. Renee Janovsky, vice president and gen-
eral manager of Neiman Marcus in the Somerset
Collection at Troy, Mich., was diagnosed in 2006
with a rare form of breast cancer requiring aggres-
sive treatment. “Every patient experiences breast
cancer and its treatment differently,” she said. “My
treatment was really challenging, but as of today, I’m
cancer free! Hopefully the work being done at Mich-
igan will make it possible for future breast cancer
patients to receive more precisely targeted treat-
ments with fewer
side effects.”
Janovsky is thrilled
that FFANY plays
s u c h a n i m p o r t -
ant role in cancer
research. “It feels
good to know that
the industry I love
and have devoted my
career to is standing
behind me in my fight
against breast cancer,
and that the dollars
they raise are being put to work at the institution that
saved my life.”
Nathan Forbes, managing partner of the Forbes
Company, a Michigan shopping destination devel-
oper, shares that enthusiasm. “It is great to see two
of our passions – cancer research and fashion – come
together through U-M’s partnership with FFANY,”
Forbes said.
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN COMPREHENSIVE CANCER CENTER
“...the dollars they raise are being put to work at the institution (UMCCC) that saved my life.” —Renee Janovsky, vice president and general manager of Neiman Marcus, Troy, Michigan
An on-site pathologist performs a microscopic exam of breast tissue sample while the patient is still under anesthesia in the operating room. After consulting with the pathologist, the surgeon can decide if it’s necessary to remove more tissue–potentially allowing a patient to avoid a second procedure.
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The Comme des Garçons Homme Plus fall show featured models in spliced ready-to-wear and floral headpieces. 25
For her Comme des Garçons Homme Plus fall ’16 collection, Rei Kawakubo referenced the tension between war and peace. Her leather lace-up with layered folds takes cues from
defense mechanisms like armor plating and even armadillo shells. Given fashion’s role as a personal shield, the style is especially profound.
S H O EO F T H EW E E K
M A R K E T P L A C E
Good Cover
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Benz joined the Bill Blass team in October 2014.26 MARKETPLACE MEN’S
Chris Benz credits his love of fashion to an unlikely metropolis: Seattle. The creative director of recently relaunched Bill Blass said the seaport city might not have the glitz of New York or Paris, but it certainly made its mark when Benz was growing up there in the 1990s, during the height of the grunge-rock movement. “I would go to the grocery store and get all the new issues of the fashion magazines,” he said. “I loved that it was art and design and everything sort of combined into one. That is what drew me to fashion.” Today, Benz is leading a major overhaul at Bill Blass, carving out a niche for spirited, feminine clothes for the modern millennial. In addition to orchestrating a redesign at the iconic American label, he’s also been busy getting it ready for a return to retail in April with a pop-up shop in Bloomingdale’s in New York and expansion by category into select stores. A graduate of Parsons School of Design with experience at Marc Jacobs, J.Crew and an eponymous line, Benz has a big challenge ahead of him. Here, he talks about the sounds and sights that keep him inspired, and his favorites in fashion.
Chris BenzBill Blass’ creative head talks interior design, eBay fi nds and his hometown.
By Margaret Sutherlin
GOOD TASTE MUSIC I CAN’T GET
ENOUGH OF:
“I’ve been listening nonstop to the ‘Fun Home’ soundtrack because I love any Broadway show.”
BEST SHOE STORE
IN NEW YORK CITY:
“Front Street General Store in Dumbo. It’s the most perfectly edited assortment of what it means to buy vintage.”
FAVORITE THING TO
DO BACK HOME:
“I grew up on Bainbridge Island, just off Seattle. There’s one chic bakery that everyone goes to.”
GREATEST
VINTAGE FIND:
“I’m a huge eBay shopper. I found a Milo Baughman parlor suite from the 1970s. It’s one of the times you just click ‘Buy It Now.’ ”
BOOK OF THE MOMENT:
“The Ellen DeGeneres coffee-table book. I don’t think there is any great antique left because Ellen has them all in her houses.”
MOVIE I KNOW
BY HEART:
“‘Six Degrees of Separation.’ It’s always on my iPad or queued on Apple TV.”
The Anilou black lace-up features calf leather (above), while the brown Hillbilly style is made of waxed nubuck.
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27MARKETPLACEMEN’S
Japanese designer Junya Watanabe and German heritage footwear maker Heinrich Dinkelacker collaborated on two fall ’16 lace-up styles. Here, both sides refl ect on their creative path together, a relationship that will continue for the following season.
By Christian Allaire
Craft UnionJOINT FORCES
“I am not interested in redefining their
work. Instead, I would like to honor it.”
JUNYA WATANABE
Step 1 Mining a PassionJunya Watanabe’s admiration for Heinrich Dinkelacker’s footwear began long before their partnership did. “They are my favorite shoes,” Watanabe said. “What I like about them is they are perfectly refi ned for what they are, regardless of what’s in fashion. There is nothing superfl uous about them; they are expertly made.” Step 2 Fruitful DiscussionsDuring their early conversations, the Heinrich Dinkelacker team was drawn to Watanabe’s emphasis on the essentials. “We were impressed that he immediately took to our classic Rio last form,” said
Maximilian Lehmann, CEO of the German company. “After seeing our shoes for only a few seconds, he already had an idea in mind. He is a great talent and determined to translate his ideas in the right way.” Step 3 Uniting Two IdentitiesThe mutual respect translated to a joint creative vision. “Junya did not try to change our Rio to another kind of shoe or emasculate it,” said Lehmann. “He focused on its unique-looking style and refined it. Now it’s a Dinkelacker shoe with Junya Watanabe’s influence.” For Watanabe, he said he thrived on — and celebrated — the differences between the two companies.
“We propose different styles every season, while at Heinrich they pursue a classic style that won’t change. This combina-tion of the two opposites is essential in collaborations and makes our partnership unique,” he said. “I am not interested in redefining their work. Instead, I would like to honor it.” Step 4 Crafting a Unique ProductThe shoes were handmade in the Heinrich Dinkelacker factory, which Watanabe said was a vital asset. “The factory is currently housed in Budapest, but the company is originally a German manufacturer. I can identify the German craftsmanship in their
products,” said Watanabe, who chose the leathers from Dinkelacker’s inventory. “Al-though it may sound a little exaggerated, I sympathize with their soul — the way they work, think and their attention to detail.”
Step 5 Presenting the Total LookThe collaboration debuted on models during Watanabe’s fall ’16 men’s runway show in Paris, which also featured patchwork shirts, slouchy trousers and leather-sleeved coats. This fall, the shoes will be available for $835 at Dover Street Market New York and Comme des Garçons stores, as well as boutiques like American Rag and Totokaelo.
“Now it’s a Dinkelacker shoe with
Junya Watanabe’s influence.”
MAXIMILIAN LEHMANN
CEO, HEINRICH DINKELACKER
+ =
nline retailer Jack Threads, which launched in 2008 with a mix of up-and- coming and estab-
lished brands, is adding its own footwear label for fall ’16.
“The shoe collection is casual-dress — looks a guy can wear to work or dress down,” said Michael Vincent, senior buyer for footwear at Jack Threads. “It’s what the modern consumer is about. It’s something very wearable and, at the same time, classic.”
Jack Threads’ assortment, which includes apparel brands such as Publish, Levi’s and Shades of Grey, is targeted to the millennial customer, with the sweet spot being 27- to 30-year-olds, according to Vincent. The company also debuted a clothing collection in fall ’15.
Meanwhile, the footwear category continues to show year-on-year growth. Among its top brands are Sperry, Timberland and Vans, and the e-tailer has also
teamed up on exclusives with Pony, Pointer, Eastland and Reebok. “We build product consumers can’t find anywhere else,” said Vincent. “It’s a good way to get our name out there and be different.”
Jack Threads also differentiates itself by offering fashion tips on the site to help shoppers coordinate a head-to-toe look. “Guys come to us to see our photography and how we style things,” said Vincent.
That brand aesthetic was an important factor when it came to creating Jack Threads’ own shoe line. “I felt there was a void [in the footwear market], whether for a style or price point,” said Vincent. “Typically, private-label brands just knock off looks, then put their logo on the shoe. I’m building a brand with a unique DNA.” Styles in the line range from about $150 to $180 and are sourced from countries including China and Portugal. “It’s basically whoever can give us the best quality at the best price,” said Vincent.
E-tailer Jack Threads is making a name for itself in the men’s lifestyle market.
By Barbara Schneider-Levy
Thread Counts
O
Jack Threads springapparel paired with Vans lace-ups
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CORTLAND FINNEGANThe Carolina Panthers cornerback takes stock of his over-the-top footwear collection.
By Barbara Schneider-Levy
PAIRS OWNED: 1,000
BRANDS: Adidas, Android Homme, Balenciaga, Buscemi, Christian Louboutin, Cole Haan, Freeman Plat, Gucci, Jordan, Louis Vuitton, Nike, Toms, Vans and various custom looks.
FAVORITE PAIRS: Dennis Rodman Nike “Air Worms,” Nike Air Mags, Air Jordan 1 “Bred Python” by JBF Customs. “The Nike Air Mags were about $2,800, and today can go as high as $10,000.”
ORGANIZATIONAL SKILLS: “I had a house built in Nashville, Tenn., two years ago around my bedroom closet. The decorator looked at me as if I was crazy. I have 300 pairs of shoes in my closet, with another 700 stored in plastic boxes in an attic space.”
HOW LONG I’VE BEEN COLLECTING: “Nine years — since I joined the NFL. But my longtime friend [and footwear designer] Christopher Dixon and I have loved shoes since early on, even before middle school.”
MOST EXPENSIVE PAIR: “Nike x Sole Collector Penny Signature Pack sold exclusively at Nike in Las Vegas. There were fi ve styles packed in a sweet-look-ing wooden box that I paid $2,000 for and can now sell for well over $10,000.”
LEAST EXPENSIVE PAIR: Toms Classic slip-ons for less than $50.
MOST COVETED KICKS: “My Louboutins. I have about 100 pairs of his
lace-up sneakers — some in python and Swarovski crystals that I paid $2,000 to $3,000 to get.”
ON-THE-FIELD FOOTWEAR: “I wear Nike cleats. Nike also gives players a monetary allotment each year, so I just buy and buy. However, I go one step further and have them customized. I like to be diff erent but have to stay within the team’s color scheme. I had them customized by Marcus Rivero/Soles by Sir.”
BEST STORE FOR SHOE SHOPPING: “Social Status in Charlotte, N.C., and Uptown in Miami. They have one-off and quirky styles that you don’t fi nd in Foot Locker. I have two good buddies who work in these stores. Whenever they get shoes that are rare that they think I’ll like, they send me pictures.”
SHOPPING COMPANION: “I like to shop solo. Footwear is like artwork. People don’t always see what you see. Sometimes I like to pick up a shoe, turn it around and then put it on. You don’t want to waste anyone else’s time shopping since they may not like what you like.”
STYLISH CELEBRITY I ADMIRE: “Usher. He can take a suit and wear it
with sneakers or dress shoes. Fashion has no limits nowadays. You do want to make a look your own. Shoes can make or break an outfi t.”
DREAM SHOE: “My busi-ness partner, Christopher Dixon, of new women’s brand Christopher Coy, designed the Finn [men’s style] for me. It’s a little bit of everything I like all rolled into one. It’s a prototype right now, but we plan to make it one day.”
FAVORITE SHOE DESIGNER: “Tinker Hatfi eld. I loved what he did early on at Nike. The shoes had so much soul.”
CLOSET CASE
Inside Finnegan’sshoe closet
ChristianLouboutin
Men’s brands are borrowing a design device from the
outdoor market, adding speed lacing to urban
hikers for a citifi ed take on Alpine dressing.
Speed Demons
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FALL TREND
MARKETPLACE30 On model: Tommy Hilfi ger’s fall ’16 runway collection took speed lacing to the max.MEN’S
Leather-sole boot with felt collar from Sanders
Makoto Taguchi’s wedge style with ostrich toe cap and strap
Caramel-colored version from Sperry with winter-white lug bottom
Sergio Rossi’s belted boot with sweater-knit shaft and collar
Danner’s black boot with gray hardware and sole
Cap-toe lug-sole hiker from Michael Kors
Zac AndrewsFounder, CRDWN
“Changing factories mid-season. The factory quality was not up to our standards after initial sampling, and with timeline constraints, we were forced to forgo an entire season of our business. I refuse to sacrifi ce quality and customer loyalty just to make a buck, and I’m proud to say our current factory has some of the strictest quality control I’ve worked with in my 10-year career.”
Founders of direct-to-consumer startups weigh in on their diffi cult but
worthwhile decisions.
By Sheena Butler-Young
31Paul Evans opened its fi rst brick-and-mortar store on March 5 in New York.
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MARKETPLACE
Robert NandFounder, The Grand Voyage
“The biggest challenge we’ve faced so far is that going direct-to-consumer cuts off the organic exposure that takes place at retail and forces you to explore other alternatives. We are in the fi nal stages of setting up a hybrid business model, partnering with an iconic luxury retailer that allows us to keep our DTC pricing but ensures exposure through their outlets.”
Sanford NydishCofounder, Cobble & Hyde
“Although we’ve been in the footwear industry for many years, our expertise lies in private-label sourcing. Online retail is a completely new facet of our business. Determining our product mix and inventory levels — given no sales history — has been our toughest call to date. We decided to limit our initial inventories to determine which styles appeal to our consumer base. Through our strong factory relationships, we were able to negotiate quicker turnaround times to lessen supply interruptions.”
CRDWN
Evan FriptCEO, Paul Evans
“Choosing a country and then a factory to produce our footwear. We had samples made around the world and in numerous factories before fi nally selecting our Napolitano factory. We opted in favor of producing the highest-quality product possible, despite slower production times due to the level of craftsmanship, as well as less-advantageous payment terms. We believe we made the correct choice as our product speaks for itself.”
PaulEvans
Paul FaragoFounder, Ace Marks
“Once we completed the product development stage of our business, we started getting more in depth with our marketing and inventory management strategy. We came up with the idea of using crowdfunding to help us purchase our fi rst production. The risk was that the campaign could fail, kill morale and create some negativity around our brand early on. We went for it and not only have we gathered a lot of data, but it has also created a lot of excitement around our brand.”
Cobble &Hyde
The GrandVoyage
Ace Marks
MEN’S
What’s the toughest
call you’ve made since launching
your brand?
BURNING QUESTION
The silver stud on the midsoles mimics the designer’s signature beauty mark. MARKETPLACE32 MEN’S
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Laurence DacadeFIRST LOOK
TARGETED TO: Cool, confident and discerning men
MADE IN: Italy PRICES: $695-$1,200
For fall ’16, the footwear designer is tapping into the menswear scene. “I wanted to follow men in their daily life,” said Laurence Dacade, who launched her women’s line in 2003. “Men are less likely to be ‘shoeaholics’ than women, so I worked on a more concentrated collection while also opening their closets with more choices.” The debut offering features a range of looks. Though mostly boot-focused — think buckled-biker and Chelsea options in suede or patent — the collection also includes lightning-bolt high-top sneakers and laceless dress shoes. “Different men need different styles,” said Dacade. “There’s something for the dandy, the artist, the romantic and the businessman.” — Christian Allaire
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He & SheAfter years working for brands including Robert Wayne and Nine West, designer Ninive Giordano will launch Nin New York, a collection of comfort-driven men’s looks targeted to 25- to 50-year-olds, this fall. “They’re fresh takes on the standards,” Giordano said about her line of wing-tip brogues and penny mocs on lightweight bottoms. Rounding out the mix are athletic-inspired high-tops and sandals, and as a nod to today’s genderless fashion movement, select styles are available on
women’s lasts. The shoes, produced in Italy, will retail for $350 to $600, while the sneakers, made in Asia, are priced from $200 to $300. Aimed at better
specialty and department stores, the collection will arrive in June.
Clothes Connections Prodigy Brands, based in Boca Raton, Fla., has signed licenses for fall ’16 for the English Laundry and Hart Schaffner Marx labels. Men’s lifestyle label English Laundry, owned by Bluestar Alliance, takes cues from the retro and contemporary music scene, featuring casual and dress looks including
oxfords, driving mocs and sneakers, retailing from $75 to $185. On a more traditional note, the licensed shoe line for men’s tailored clothing label Hart Schaffner Marx, from ABG-HMX, consists of updated classics such as cap-toe boots and tassel slip-ons, retailing from $150 to $350. Both collections are aimed at better specialty stores with delivery slated for July. In addition, a licensed companion line of Hart Schaffner Marx socks will launch for fall, retailing from $12.50 to $18.50.
BUZZ
Men’s News
EnglishLaundry
Nin New York
Triple PlayIndustry veteran Tim Patwell recently cofounded Unified Brands, based in Long Beach, Calif., and will introduce three footwear labels for fall ’16. First up is the firm’s own line, KLR, a unisex boot collection of Chelsea styles as well as hikers done on a slimmer and fuller last. Retailing for $190 to $260, the line will hit boutiques and better department stores in August. Unified Brands also has signed a licensing deal with the hunting-and-fishing radio-TV show “The American Outdoorsman” for a series of men’s casual and technical products with insulating and waterproofing features. Set to debut in August, the line is priced from $70 to $140 and targeted to outdoor specialty stores and e-tailers. Finally, Pat-well’s team plans to bring the Jeremy Clarke line to the U.S. from Australia. That series of men’s contemporary looks include oxfords and slip-ons priced at $90 to $130. Distribution is focused on men’s specialty.
On location with“The AmericanOutdoorsman”
A KLRboot
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BIGBUSINESS
Contact Shannon Fitzgerald at
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Footwear News 2016 Editorial Calendar
ISSUE DATE SPACE CLOSE EDITORIAL FEATURE
MARCH
3/28 3/16 Comfort
APRIL
4/4 3/21 Athletic, Los Angeles Times Distribution
4/11 3/30 Work Boot, Occupational Footwear Outdoor, Material & Components
4/25 4/13 Synclaire Brands Milestone Women’s Fashion, Legwear
MAY
5/2 4/20 Under Armour Milestone, Best of Running
5/9 4/27 Made In Spain
5/16 5/4 Editorial Feature TBD
5/30 5/18 FFANY Pre-Show, Women In Power Distribution: FFANY
JUNE
6/6 5/25 Toms Milestone, FN Summit, FFANY Show Bonus Distribution: FFANY, FN Summit
6/13 6/1 FN Summit Coverage, FFANY Wrap-Up
FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO. 10. March 21, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliver-able, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a sub-scription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
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PickLadies FirstFirst Lady Michelle Obama delivered a keynote speech at South by Southwest festival in Austin, Texas, last Wednesday wearing Stuart Weitzman’s NearlyNude sandals. During the conversation, Obama discussed the Let Girls Learn initiative and made headlines for saying she would not run for president. Obama was joined onstage by Missy Elliott, Diane Warren and Sophia Bush, while Queen Latifah moderated the session.
Leading in Challenging TimesS
ATTEND: KIM MANCUSO, [email protected], 646.356.4722 SPONSOR: ALEXIS COYLE, [email protected], 646.356.4719
FAIRCHILDSUMMITSANNUALPARTNERS
EVENT SPONSORS
Robert ‘Cape’ CapenerK-SWISS GLOBAL BRANDS
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