{ History of Costume Dark Ages Edwardian Era 500 A.D. -
1914
Slide 2
The Dark Ages Saxon and Frankish Era 500-599 A.D. A
continuation of the tunic Belted at the waist or hip Men begin to
wear trouser like garments Leggings Cloaks fur lined & some
wool Fastened with brooches Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing
Costume History 500- 1066AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon
Clothing retrieved from:
http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothing-
saxon-frankish-anglo.htm
Slide 3
The Dark Ages The Anglo Saxon Era 700 999 Similar to the Saxon
& Frankish Era Hoods were added to cloaks in the 9 th century
The wrap over coat and waist coat appeared Began to see class
distinction through dress Nobility had embellishments on the
collar, waist or border of their tunics Nobility wore longer tunics
Working class & Peasants wore plain shorter tunics THINK MOVIE:
King Arthur
Slide 4
The Dark Ages Anglo-Saxon King & Queen Anglo-Saxon Lady
& Women Anglo-Saxon Warrior & Man Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early
Clothing Costume History 500- 1066AD: Saxon, Frankish &
Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from:
http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothing-
saxon-frankish-anglo.htm
Slide 5
The Dark Ages The Anglo Saxon Era 1000-1099 Men Continued to
wear tunics but shorter Piercings became popular Coifs flat, round
caps Long stockings with feet & short boots Women Long woolen
gown sometimes 2 layers Inner gown tight sleeves; outer gown loose
sleeves Wore cloak or mantle over outer gown Began to wear head
covering unless very young
Slide 6
Think Movies: Beowolf & Grendel Tristan & Isolde The
13th Warrior The Dark Ages 500-1100
Slide 7
Medieval/Middle Ages Early Period: 1100-1199 simple shaped
fitted tunic for men Long, wide gown with decorative embroidery for
women The Bliaut was a dress worn by woman or men in this time
period. Hose took the place of trousers THINK MOVIE: Robin
Hood
Slide 8
Medieval/Middle Ages After 1200 Men Tight short clothes with
long pointed shoes The longer the point the higher the status
Slide 9
Medieval/Middle Ages After 1200 Women Began to use tight lacing
on women's to create a form fitting shape girdled at the hips
created a long - waisted appearance Long, trailing gowns Hennin,
worn 1300- 1400,was a cone-like hat resembling the spires of the
cathedral spire.
Slide 10
Late Medieval Ages 1400-1500 Fashion in this era was greatly
influenced by the high class society and the European Kings and
Queens. The Surcoat was a popular fashion accessory for the men of
this era. Peasants had a lot of different clothing styles because
each particular style identified the woman with her hometown.
Slide 11
Think Movies: BecketBraveHeart A Knights Tale The Hunchback of
Notre Dame Robin Hood Medieval/Middle Ages
http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/medievalmovies.html
Slide 12
Renaissance: 1400-1500 Shapes becoming rounder Accentuate
Physique Drawers & Padding for men Codpiece for men a
decorative triangular piece of fabric attached at the groin. Men
wore blouses with exposed chest Pregnancy Pillows for Women the
maternal look was fashionable. Looser, sexier clothing THINK: Romeo
& Juliet.
Slide 13
Renaissance: 1400-1500
Slide 14
Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era Tighter, stiff, more
rigid clothing Heavy and Luxurious Fabrics Slashing - cut in the
outer surfaces of garments doublets, sleeves and gowns exposed the
contrasting color of the linings beneath Ruff worn by both men
& women large stiff collar worn at this time.
Slide 15
Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era Farthingale for Women
stiff metal cone-shaped article worn under skirts Corset V-Waist
Accessories Pearls, heeled shoes Tights for men THINK: Shakespeare
in Love
Slide 16
Slide 17
Elizabethan Era 1500-1600
Slide 18
Think Movies: HamletElizabeth Ever After Shakespeare in Love
Romeo & Juliet The Agony & the Ecstasy Renaissance
http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/renaissancemovies.html
Slide 19
Cavalier 1620-1660 France Begins to influence Fashion Fashion
which said I dont have to work for a living. Sensual & Soft
look, less stiffness Waistlines began to rise Ruffs were replaced
by lace or linen collars Sleeves began to become fuller Men began
wearing breeches instead of hose Accessories Turned down boots Tall
broad hats Ribbons & bows
Slide 20
Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight
sleeves Sleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers Think
Three Musketeers
Slide 21
Restoration 1660 - 1715 Womens Fashion Full, loose sleeves that
end at elbow Tightly corseted Mantua Hung from the shoulders to the
floor worn for 'undress' wear The overskirt was looped back and
held by ribbon bows. and held by ribbon bows. Train length
determined by social status Hair worn in tight curls Got bigger and
higher as the period went on
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/rest
oration.htm
Slide 22
Restoration 1660 - 1715 Mens Fashion Breeches became very baggy
Coat and Waist coat Ruffled long sleeved shirt Cravats worn over
the neck Periwig Wig worn by men throughout the period the period
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/res
ources/Costume_History/restoration.htm
Cavalier/Restoration Think Movies: Girl with the Pearl Earring
Pirates of the Carribean The Man in the Iron Mask The Three
Muskateers The Scarlet Letter
http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/baroquemovies.html
Slide 25
Historical Costume and the Movies Assignment Directions: 1. Go
to email and open the document I sent you. 2. Find 12 pictures from
12 different movies that represents 12 different time periods. 3.
Paste the picture in the box provided, then fill in the information
in the corresponding box. 4. Save your document, then email it to
me when you are complete. 5. You will be getting more notes Friday
and will have time to finish. Movie Title: 300 Time Period: Greek
B.C. Evidence of Time Period: Greek Chiton dress with belts holding
in place Historically Accurate: No, Chiton would cover whole torso
front and back. You can tell double sided tape was used to hold
dress in place. Website: http://photos.lucywho.com/que
en-gorgo-photo-gallery- c16025998.html
Slide 26
Georgian 1700-1775 Mens Fashion Flat Front Breechesbreeches
with a buttoned front flap. The Justaucorps for men was the
forerunner of todays suit coat. The Spencer was a short jacket
without tails. QueueA long pigtail or ponytail that men would wear
on the back of the neck with their own hair or with their wig.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved
from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/georgian.htm
Slide 27
Georgian 1700-1775 Thomas, P.W. (2008) King George III -
1760-1820 - Daily & Occupational Dress of Men. Retrieved from :
http://www.fashion-era.com/english-costume/1760-1820-george-
iii-mens-clothes.htm
Slide 28
Georgian 1700-1775 Womens Fashion Panniersbaskets made of reed
or whale bone held together with ribbon used to hold out the skirt
The hoop was first funnel- shaped, but from 1730s to 1740s grew
very broad at the sides and flat front and back. Robinson,, S.R.
(2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved
from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/georgian.htm
Slide 29
Georgian 1700-1775 Womens Fashion Watteau Gown a loose sack or
dress, worn over a tight bodice and very full underskirt. The loose
folds falling from the shoulders in back became part of the skirt.
The front of the gown varied in design, either hanging loose or
fitted at the waist, worn closed or open, and, if open, revealing a
bodice and underskirt. The elbow-length sleeves had vertical pleats
and soft, wide cuffs. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume
History. Retrieved
from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/georgian.htm
Slide 30
Georgian 1700-1775 Womens Fashion Pompadourlarge hair-do
associated with the French court and often had birds or toys placed
in it. Shepherdess HatA hat worn by fashionable women that
resembled a shepardess hat. It was referring to the romantic life
of the country. Mob CapLarge cap with soft, full crown and wide
brim which almost hid the face; usually trimmed with ribbon bands
and loops Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History.
Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/georgian.htm
Slide 31
Georgian Think Movies: A Tale of Two Cities Marie Antoinette
The Duchess The Legend of Sleepy Hollow The Patriot The Last of the
Mohicans
http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/georgianmovies.html
Slide 32
THINK MOVIE: Marie Antoinette
Slide 33
Empire 1790-1815 Men's Fashion Breeches became longer and more
tightly fitted Trousers or Pantaloons for the street Coats were
cutaway with long tails and standing collars Waist coats were high
waisted and squared off at the bottom Hair wax and mutton chops
were the new hair fad Wellington style boot
Slide 34
Empire 1790-1815 Women's Fashion The triumph of the undressed
look Followed the simple flowing lines of the Greek silhouette
Empire Waist High waisted, natural look No corsets Accessories
Gloves Vinaigrette: small drawstring handbag
Slide 35
Empire Think Movies: Becoming Jane Emma Pride & Prejudice
The Count of Monte Cristo The Brothers Grimm
http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/regencymovies.html
Slide 36
THINK MOVIE: Emma
Slide 37
Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion Peg-Top TrousersTrousers
that were wide and pleated at the top and very narrow at the
ankles. The name peg-top originally applied to a boys cone-shaped
spinning top. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved
from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_His
tory/romantic.htm
Slide 38
Men's Fashion Sack CoatA loose-fitting coat ending at the
finger tips and having high short lapels. It was used in sports and
in commerce. Great CoatAn overcoat usually made out of wool and not
as fitted as a regular coat. Frock CoatA double-breasted coat
having long skirts of equal length in front and back. Romantic Era
1815-1840 Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_His
tory/romantic.htm
Slide 39
Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion Accessories AscotA scarf
tied in a knot with horizontal ends, then crossed diagonally. The
whole usually held in place with a jeweled stickpin. BowlerA stiff
felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler,
similar to a derby, has a slightly wider brim and roll at the
sides. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_His
tory/romantic.htm
Slide 40
Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion Beret Sleeves - cut from
a circle with an opening in the center for the arm and this was
gathered and bound into a band. The outer circle was gathered and
set into the armhole Gigot SleevesA full sleeve with more fullness
at the elbow than at the shoulder or wrist. Robinson,, S.R. (2010).
Romantic Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_His
tory/romantic.htm
Slide 41
Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion Wider Skirt Hemlines:
Gored into panels from 1820-1828 to added width at hemline, but
keep tight waist Decoration of stuffed rouleau tubes, Italian
quilting and flounces and frills were added to push out the skirt
hem width in an architectural way. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic
Era Fashion History. Retreived from:
http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era
1825-1835
Slide 42
Women's Fashion Pelerine Collars (1836): covered wide shoulders
and added modesty. The width of the lace pelerine reached about 31
inches when at its widest fashion. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Thomas,
P.W. (2008). Romantic Era Fashion History. Retreived from:
http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era
1825-1835
Slide 43
Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion Hats: Large romantic
wide hats, ornately trimmed with feathers, loops of ribbons and
bows complemented the wide shoulder lines of the 1830s Bonnets were
virtually interchangeable with hats Coal scuttle bonnet styles with
deep crowns accommodated the high Apollo knot: hair style of a high
twist on top of the head. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era Fashion
History. Retreived from:
http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era
1825-1835
Slide 44
Victorian Era Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Mens Fashion Prince Albert
Coat Another name for the double-breasted frock coat with satin
lapels, named after the consort of Queen Victoria who favored the
style. String Tie Basic ribbon, often black, tied in a bow with the
ends hanging down. Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe so they
wouldn't get muddy. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume.
Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/crinoline.htm
Slide 45
Victorian Era Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Mens Fashion Dundrearies
Long side burnes, Lamb Chops, worn my Lord Dundreary on Our
American Cousin, by Tom Taylor. Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical
hat with very little brim; worn by men. Pince Niz A style of eye
glasses that pinched the nose. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline
Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/crinoline.htm
Slide 46
Victorian Era Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837 - 1860 Return to
the look of demure prim gentility Big hats leave and bonnets return
The Gigot sleeve collapses in for a much narrower sleeve and
dropped shoulder line. Tight, pointed longer boned bodice to
emphasize a small waistline Pantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and
ruffles that extended below the knees Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early
Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from:
http://www.fashion- era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm
Slide 47
Victorian Era Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 Dolman: A
three-quarter-length outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or woolen
fabric with sleeves cut in one with the body.. Pagoda Sleeves A
sleeve shaped like a funnel, tight above and gradually widening at
the bottom, often finishing in several ruffles over a soft lawn
under-sleeve. Sleeves were off the shoulders for evening wear for
upper class. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and
Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from:
http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm
Slide 48
Victorian Era Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 Bell shaped
skirts become so large they are more dome shaped. Held up by 6
layers of petticoats Supported by stiffer fabrics with Crin woven
in horsehair to make fabrics stiffer. Crinoline: any garment that
used this type of lining to make it stiff Crinoline cage: metal
steel frame cage that freed women of petticoats Thomas, P.W.
(2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860.
Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-
era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm
Slide 49
Four factors that begin to influence fashion 1. The invention
of the sewing machine 2. Fashion becomes couture design led 3.
Synthetic dyes allow for intense colors 4. Dome skirt started to
have a flat front and a dramatic leaning back. Victorian 1865-1890
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved
from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-
late_victorian_fashion.htm
Slide 50
Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion BlazerA lightweight sport
jacket. Norfolk JacketA jacket with box pleats or straps of the
same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to
hem in front and back; usually worn for sport occasions. InvernessA
full, sleeveless cape which fitted closely around the neck; from
Inverness in Scotland. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume.
Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/bustle.htm
Slide 51
Men's Fashion KnickerbockersFull, knee-length breeches gathered
in at the knee Four-in-hand TieA type of necktie originally used by
coachmen that is tied in a slip knot. Straw BoaterA man's hard
straw hat coated with shellac from India that became popular for
summer outings and sporting events in the 1870s Victorian 1865-1890
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/bustle.htm
Slide 52
Victorian - Bustle Womens Fashion BustleWhalebone or steel
strips placed in the top back of the petticoat or in a separate
panier puff in order to hold out the elaborate draping at the back
of the over skirt. BloomersLoose underdrawers usually gathered at
the knee. BasqueA short, skirt-like termination of an upper garment
(originally on the male doublet) Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle
Costume. Retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume
_History/bustle.htm
Slide 53
Victorian - Bustle Womens Fashion The Soft Bustle Fashion
Silhouette 1867-1875 Apron style tablier top layer half skirt
contrasting underskirts and gown linings were all revealed as the
over top skirt was divided or turned back. Thomas, P.W. (2008).
Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from:
http://www.fashion-era.com/mid- late_victorian_fashion.htm
Slide 54
Womens Fashion From 1870, ball gowns always had a train. by
1873 the train was seen in day dress. By 1875 styles were becoming
so extreme that the soft fullness began to drop down the back of
the garment and form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled train
By 1875 soft polonaise bustle styles were becoming so extreme that
the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment and
form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled train Victorian -
Bustle
Slide 55
Womens Fashion Victorian Silhouette 1878-1901 Princess Line and
the Cuirasse Bodice soft polonaise style bustle styles were
replaced by Princess sheath garments without a waist seam with
bodice and skirt cut in one. Cuirasse bodice: corset like and
dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips
creating the look of a body encased in armour. Victorian - Bustle
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved
from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-
late_victorian_fashion.htm
Slide 56
Victorian - Bustle Womens Fashion The New Hard Bustle of 1883
jutting out shelf like style of bustle larger than ever as a hard
shape that gave women a silhouette like the hind legs of a horse
Minimal drapery in comparison to earlier bustles Slimmer more
fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter
front. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion.
Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-
late_victorian_fashion.htm
Slide 57
Victorian ( both eras) Think Movies: Far and Away The Phantom
of the Opera Gangs of New York Gone With the Wind Glory Cold
Mountain The Mask of Zorro Sherlock Holmes
http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/victorianmovies.html
Slide 58
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Mens Fashion ChesterfieldA fitted
dress overcoat with hidden buttons and a velvet collar KickersFull
breeches gathered or pleated into knee bands and buckled at the
knee Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's.
retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/findesiecle.htm
Slide 59
Mens Hats Panama HatA hand-woven hat of fine straw from Ecuador
and Colombia, South America. For-and-Aft CapA cap having a visor
front and back, often worn with an Inverness cape. DerbyA stiff
felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler has a
slightly wider brim and a roll at the sides. HombergA carefully
blocked, stiff felt hat with a medium tapering crown creased in the
middle and a brim that was rolled up on the sides and finished in
grosgrain ribbon Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Robinson,, S.R. (2010).
Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/findesiecle.htm
Slide 60
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Womens Fashion 1890-1910 Tailor
MadeMass-produced, ready-to- wear clothing that had a tailored fit
often wool or serge because of the tailoring quality. Leg-o-MuttonA
sleeve that was extremely wide at the top and tapered at the wrist.
ShirtwaistA womans top detached from the skirt. At first the focal
point was the shoulders then it moved to the front. Robinson,, S.R.
(2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/findesiecle.htm
Slide 61
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Womens Fashion 1890-1910 Gibson
GirlMore often associated with the topknot hair style. Also a
blouse with a single pleat which extended over each shoulder front
and back, hiding the armseye of the shirtwaist. Image of 'The New
Woman' who was competitive, sporty and emancipated as well as
beautiful. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay
90's. retrieved from:
http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum
e_History/findesiecle.htm
Slide 62
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Womens Fashion 1900 -1907 The S-Bend
corset and pouter pigeon effect The high collar, S bend corset,
trained skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on the posture of an
Edwardian lady and it gave her a certain swaying grandeur. Evening
wear exceptionally low sweetheart, square and round dcollet
necklines allowed women to wear quantities of fine jewelry. No
cleavage was visible as the bust was suppressed into a monobosom.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle poque Edwardian Fashion History.
Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-
era.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm
Slide 63
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Womens Accessories Gainsborough Hat
velvet, beaver, or straw hat having a low crown and a broad brim,
trimmed with feathers. Feathers Gloves Parasols Bags Thomas, P.W.
(2008). La Belle poque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from:
http://www.fashion-
era.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm
Slide 64
Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Think Movies: Anne of Green Gables
Titanic Finding Neverland My Fair Lady Legends of the Fall
http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/edwardianmovies.html