Spantik r987

Fhe lolort of an ertrbdltlon ty rtobels of +,heNortb London llountalleelll)8 Club.

Reported.Lto!;A.Y.Sauatters 1988

l\rth€! Lnfo:.oatLoo;A.V.Sarsdera .A.Foeler

^71 Ferntone! RoadlonAon N5 2JE

(A*fM*

16 chllterrr Golilenslondon Nl2 1P(

Nick Estcourt Aword

MOUNT EVEREST FOUNDATION

,

SUPPORTED BY:

coNtSNTS

ABSTRACT

TNTRODUCTIONthe Karal(oranSpant 1kMAPP€ r Eon€1,

ADMINI EIRATIONPe rni gs I onvlEaaPaktatan

LOGI ETI CSResearchFundr al5 !ngAir t rav€lI nEuranceFr. tghtHol€laRoad tranePortPorterBLocaf foodHatercook

CLTMBING

coNcLUSrONS

ICKNO}ILEDGEMENT

APPENDIX l . Expcdi t ion Log

APPE}iDrx 2 Halght Rcco rd

,APPENDIX 3 MedicEl RQPort

.APPENDtx { Pr.dtct€d and Actual

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2.INTRODL]CTION

2.I THE KARAKORAMihe xaraxorarr Range forms the western wing of th€ Lhe g!€at

Hinalayan chain. Al thougth the bulk of the range !s- in Pakistan'

i rpo. t l r r t parts l ie wi th i ; china and India ' our exPedit ion took

pi i . . i ' p 'akistan l t is easv to ?9 sup:r l?! . i " :P: ' : the ranse'

' i t "ont" in"

the greatest concintrat ion of t r igh peaks in the vor ld i

i i , " -g i . i i " i t are; o! g laciat i .on outside the Po1e5' etc ' For u5'

the ieal at t ract ion i ; the c lassical b€auty of the (arakoran

aiqui l les andl lhe1r retnote set t ing. SurPr is ingly ' most

; ; ; ; ; i i i ; t " v iEi t a few, wel ' r knovn, vaLLeys' For exarrple ' of the

a; ' ; ; ; ;a ia i . t " granted Parnt t ion to c l i t t rb in the Paktstan dur inq

I98?, 'no less t l ian 35 were devot ing thelr ef for ts to the 6 nost

DoDular peaks! As a direct and f ; r tunate resul t ' !here are st i l l

[ i i " i i i " l t " t oPportuni t ies for exPlorat !on in the range' The Nl l

p i i lar of gpant ik was one Euch oPPortunl ty '

2.2 SPANT I Kioanttk is the main Peak of the chogolungna grouP' and the source

oi- i "o ." :o. g lacier i ; the east f lowing chogolungna' and tho vest

i f "" ing eu.p". I t !s 7027n high, and i |aE--at te[ lp led In I903 by the

i i . . i " in" , 'Fanny Bul lock, and Dr H11l1arn Hunter ' t ' lorkman' They

ioiro"ua the 1ai :or ious chogolungna glacier ' and Probably reached a

tr" iot t t of .oooO.. The f1;sE aicent took place 5' t years 1€ter ln

i ; ; ; ; - . ; ; ;a; the vork of a cerman Party under the leadershiP of

R. sander, Probably fo l louing the route Proneered by !he

Workmans. Further ascontE of the Peak were based on the

Ctroootunqma qlac!er. Oura naB the sth recor i led ascent of the

"or j t i t " in] bui the f i rst f ron the Barpu 5lde.

Cl inberCl inbercl lmbercI lmbercI inbe rDoctor / Cl lnbe rLia!sol | of f icerCook

2.3 PERSONELvictor gaunders (uK) , Archi tect 'Michael Fowler (UK)

' c i .v i1 sorvant.

Phi111p But ler (UK) ' l ' {otorcycle cour ier '

Bruce crelg (NZ) , Duct Erector.El izabeth Al len (UK) , Industr la l Des!gner 'Dr JsC Engl tBh (uK), Dertnatologls l .or . Iqbal M Ahr0ed' (Pak)

' Phygic lan

RaJab Zawar (Pak), Cook.ceor96 FovLer (UK)

' Prtnter (ret)

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3. ADMTN lsTRATl ON

3. L PERM I SS IONFor 1987, the Iast date for submissionEmbassv of Pakistan uas 30 october 1986anount of peak fee Payable are c lear lyof requfat ions and rules for nountaineeinval ;able guide is avai lable f rom the

of appl icat ions to the. The procedure and theset out in the nbrovn booknr in ing in Pakistan. ThisEmbassy

"-

As a resul t of adminls!rat ive dysfuncl ion' th!ee Br l t ish

uxoeart : .ons i . ,ere plevented from Payin? the peak fee' even though

i t r ' . .o*ptet"a appi icat ion forns were accePted by the Enbassy

befo.u tne aead]: ine. The embassy staf f insis led that our money

"ouia "" fV be accePted \rhen we received permission'- ln Deceirber

" . i i - . . . " ' t t t . . "9h i rom ts larnabad that the three aPPl icat ions had

;; ; ; ; ;?;" ;a belause the fee had not been dePos!ted on t ime rhe

oqre N face expedi ! ion turneal to other plans' but the Gasherbruns

i ia sp.nt i t exbedi t ions enbarked on a canPaign of let ter wr l t ln9'

in" . l iptn" c lut vas invaluable in the supPort i t fent to our

; ; i . ; i ; , ceorge Band (Presidedt) and Lord chor ley (ex President

ic, "ur ."" t

p iesident Rcs) k indly wrote diPlonat ic Lett€rs on our

behal f .

These ef for ts bore f ru! t rn January n8? when an of f !c ia l fet ter of

; ; ; ; ; " ; l ; ; ' ; ; " - i .cei ' , .a bv the oqr; N race srouP (Presunablv

t"""r . r"" , s ince changing !herr p l ins ' they had not nade a nuisance

oi t t remselves) ' rn i two leading nembers of !he Gashert ' runs

"r ,"" l i f io" declded the only $ 'ay forvard {as to narry each oth€r

"" i - i .u i t . Hrs Excel lency ihe Ambassador fo! Pakistan to the

i" iatro. - r t t i=

f inarry did the t r ick ' and al though His ExcelLency

". I -" . iur"- i " p"r"on" i ly at tend the Gasherbrun's wed' l in9' he wag

rui . - io .ont l t i l that Peinission for the cf inb was forthcoming '

f t r " -p. t i t i " t 9o,rern. .nt a lecided at the same t lne to al lo! ' us

p"rrni=sio. t fo; sPant ik, 6avinq us any unnecessa!y rnarr iages'

(Phew!) The point is , the 'b;o! ,n bo;kn shou!d be studied

careful . ly and fol lowed net icufousLy '

3.2 VI SASVisas were nuch fess ot a Problem' but i t woufd be-best to obtain

the visas wel l in advance, and al low 4 to 6 weeks rrom

appl icat ion. The vrsa sect ion of the Enbassy is overshwelned and

" I5. i= l i i i , i , : . rn 19e7 the cost of a s ingle entrv. v isa was r25'

uu! tn i= wi tL not Perni t the v is j_tor to reenter Paklstan even

after a short excursion. This could catch out ehose want ing to

" i r i i i t t i " . v ia the Karakoram t t ighway ' I 'he Nz member of our

l i i i i t i i " i -n.o-.oni lae. .ur" d i f f icul iv obtaining his v isa f ron the

Pakj.stan Hiqh Comn!sslon rn Canberra ' Austral ' ia Fron a Purely

; ; ; " - ; ;1. ; - ; ; v iew i t woutd have been easier i f he had said he was

; i . " t i i "s; on the form. Because the rna{ ic word nexpeai t ionrr l ras

useal , we had to send var lous te lexes and eventual ly a coPy of the

Dermj,Ssron document Dy sPecial a i r cour ier to canberra ' who were'' i f oossrble. mole dysfunct ional than London'

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] . ] PAfICTAN

once 1n Pakistani the main elements of bUreaucracy tJere ' leal inq

withi ' _hrs s4o0o deposiL must be nade at a

: : ' "": l ; . : ' l : : ;ol i" ! i l l ;o"i ' . ^- ' I 'pi"u.uiv sarest and best to take

orrt th. ^onuy

as dol lar t " t " f iut ! chequis The deposi t rs

rerurne\ i as rravelrers . r .J i ! - .^ l i 'a i " ' l * i " i l t ion con' l u les ! ' I thout

iliniR. ", ", =o" 9r r :1." I :,.li.Til' ?ii.'|ii r'li "'e' i rli"il.bifl]lll

;::-:;: "i: -l:i":'::'i:i;'::':lnf :ii"ei,*:i;-::":":ill i,:l:'"purchases' t ransport " t i ; . i : 'o; i ; " ; I i i ip i "e cruu.

?ly=l::i:. i::." l ' l l?i Rl"i;; plir"y .u=r'.u. ."I::,."u. in ravourii ' t i"-i i.r=o" gtli:"1 :.?3ll"in"::""::o::::i l l="3it; rhe Mtnrstrvif,,: l::: i: ' , i:",i i3i ' i l i !3 0'i i! '"t! i-.i i".re';:1':::= above havebeen conpreted. rnt tnt""- tEl i - i " "*p"" t"a

to. be-Pr6sent The

i " "* i= ! r" . exPectea t : : ' " : : : " : : t , : i : , : l : ,u"o"" t tns ' when tne

rece 1Dt for Lhe hel icoPter

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LOGISTICS

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4.I RESEARCHHe found the fofLol i l ing source nater ia l ' inval-uable;l .The Himalayan Handb6ok by JoydeeP Sircar, pr ivately Publ ishedCulcutta 19?9, is a concise survey of Hinalayan bistory aEovo

20,000 f eet .t .Mountaineer in-q and i ts Li terature by t ' l .R Neate- ' -Publ lshed by

Cicerone press, 1978, is i then mountaineer ing bibl iograPhy'3.The Trekkers Guide to the Hlmalaya and Karakoran by Hugh Swif t 'pub. Hodder anal stoughton 1982. Al though i t is faul ty ' the

ir i "=tr i " t i g lossary is the ooly Publ !shed guiae !o the language of

Hunza/Nagar we found. For a mountaineer the worst mts!akes are

val lev, ihe Gurale q!ves nba! ' ' correct is nHarn' and Pass' the

cuia" 'q i" . r "ha9ut;" ' the 1ocals Eay "auasum,or duasasi and that

they h;ve no idta vhat ihaguts ' coulal possibly nean'

lhere are var ious maPs, PerhaPs the most useful are1. t t re l^"r i . "n Arny MaP Service "Ser ieE U502' l t€ used sheeC NJ

43-14 iBal t i t ' . scale 1:250, OOO. cbntour interval 500 feet 'connerciaLly avai lable at stanfords' London'2. the Pol i ;h orthograPhlcaL maP of the Karakoran' Pr ivaLely

luui isnea by Jerzy t ia l i ' xraro* 19?3. scale I :250'000 can be se6n' . t tn" noy" i Geog;aPhic Society or the AlPine club' London'

Landsats for the area exist , and can be viewed 6t the Br i t ish

i iUru.y, Map Library, These can be used to 9au9e the aPproxinate-

oosi t ion of the sno; l in€ ( the dat€ aPPears on the PhotograPh) and

inay help tn Planning a rouce narch.

I , le are indebtei l to Doug gcott , Zbignt6w Kowal6wski ' Nazir Sabrr

and our expedl t ion menber John En9113h !or- excel lent . (and

fr lqhteninq) photograpns of the GoIden P! l lar ' Probably the best

." l i . " i i "n ' o i x. t ixo ' , -" . photograPhs Publ ished under a s ing]e set

oi "o"" i t

is the Pol ' ish "karakorum" by Kowal€\ 'ski and Paczkowski '

l f . . " i " fggO, \ ,eI I vorth a v i51t to the Alpine club ! ibrary for '

i i=o-"oi t t looking at is the JaPanese Picture book "Mountains of

the xo!1dn c.1980, which has some Pretty obscure (and

interest !ng) nountains' as weLl a5 the usual '

4.2 FUNDRAI S I NGtle were fortunate to win the Nick Estcourt Awardi the Mount

Everest Foundat ion and the Br i t ish Mountaineer ing Counci l both

^aaa ganaao,-r= grants, Barclays Bank made a welcome donat ion and

the N;r th Lond6n Mounlai .neer lng Club a somewhat stnal ler one'

Be rghaus supPorted the expedi t !oncvcloDs Roc rucksacks ' r , rh

j ch were<no t i i t rs, very harduear ing), as

gene ro\rsIy ' ! r€ used their

near perfect for our PurPoses'w€Ll as the funct ional c lothint

the North Face very k indly loaned us 3 of their excelLent base

camp tents. Rab carr ington suppl ied oul down eq\r iPtnent ' includinq

a Llghtweight gortex covered sleePing bag to our own slranqe

dinensionsLondon.

l le aLso received generous support f ro ln Alpine Sports,

I t j .s a najor problem for snal f expedi t j .ons goiog to unfanouspeaks to raise funds, other than through members Personalcontr ibut ions, Ment ion the name Evetest and Sponsors f a l ,1 overthenselves t ryrng io give away their rnoney, but SPant ik? 1t seensthe econonic c l imate is not now (has i t ever been?) conducive togenerous sPonsorshiP for exploratory nountaineer ing.

4.3 A I RTRAVELPIA (Pakrstan Internat ional Aj . r l ines) had wri t ten to al l Br i t ishexpedi t ions rece!ving permission for 198?, and $e avai ledoursel .ves of the of fer of (s1i9ht1y) reduced pr ices toqether wi than increased baggage al lowance, I t is preferable to f ly d i rect toIs lamabad i f possible. our NZ menber, Bruce Craig f lev toIs lamabad by s ingapore Air l ines. Saunders and But ler f lew out on28 June, a week i .n advance of the inain party, wi th the iAea off lx ing the bureaucracy, road traveL and provis ions.

4.4 INSURANCEtle purchased team insurance to cover t ravel , ba99age, medicalexpeDses, photographic equiptment, and rescue cos!s. I t has beenthe pract ice to lnsure the S4000 hel !copter depoEj. t seperately foreach nenber. I f might reduce costs i f lhe deposi t qras lnsured onceonLy. l fe have used var ious f r rms over the yeats, and in I98? wefound the BMC brokers of fered lhe best dea1,

4.5 FREIGHTI. le found i t necessary to f re ight out sonre 100 k9 of food andequiptment, as wel l as our ent i re supply of Epigas. Our gas \ , rasair f re lghted to Karachi , vhere re col l .ected i t and sent i t up toRa'raLpindi by rai l . fh is l las inef f ic ient , and was forced on usbecause we had not found a f i rm that that would f re ight the gasdlr€ct to IsLamabad. ?he 100 kg l rere air f r€ ighted direcL toIs l .anabad, Customs clearance cost us a day and about [ .30. I t isi lnportant to have a comple!e packing List for each package, theMinistry of lour isn wi l f Eign !he I ist as be!n9 for expedi t ionpurposes only, and the s!gned f ist nust be presented to thecustons author i ty. Por our smaI l amount of f re ight we fo\rnd i tcheaper ' (and sinpler l ) to avoid ! re lght agents. On PIA there is acheap rate for nsport ing goodsn, ask for i t .

4.6 UOTELSIt was decj .ded to stay in the ovelpr iced Flashnan's HoteLRawalpindi , because of the resident 's swihr l l ing pooI. This faci l i tyenabled the advanced guard to naintain sone neasule of f i tneSs inthe oppressive heat of the subcont inentaf sunmer. By 7 July therenainder of the tean had assembl.ed in Flashnan's. The work of theadvanced party had gone wel l , though not to p1an, (everythingseened to ! , ,a i t t i11 the Last ninute), $r i th the resul t that theent i re ent i re team was able to leave Rawafpindi for Gi lg i t wi th in

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24 hours of the nain Party arr iv ing in Pakistan'

On our leturn ! rom tDe nountains' r re foun' l i t more convenient and

i i . .o. . - io stay in the Hotel sheraza' l ' Is lanabad This is fa i r ly

. i " r5 ' i " - in. l , t in istry of tour ism, and the (hel icoPter dePosi t )

bank. Thrs hotef has an alhosPhere of Faul ty Towers about ! t ' and

".u-<i" fgel l welL {orth a v i ; i t I t has no E{ iDning Pool ' and the

air condi t ioning neeals at tent lon'

4.? ROAD TRANSFORTL. r t i i i ra a 12 seater van f rotn sar-qan services' ( of f ices opposl le

l i , " t lo.ref ty or "Ne{aI tyn Cinema, RavalPindi) ' for . a very

ie.so. , . l f . ' !ate ' The van took us to Gi ig i t in 14 hours ' overnight '

then on to Hunza in a fur ther 3 hours '

Prom Hunza we hirei l 4 jeePs for the 2okn dir t t rack road Past

i r . ; ; . a; ioppar. rhese i |ere expens- ive' . t " ?: : f : - :1. . :he Karakoran

te id to ue, '6ut there 6eems to bo l l l t le al tetnat ive' l le 1e!t

n."" fp i .a i . " che af ternoon of 7 Ju1y, and arr lved at the HopPar

rest i rouse in the evening of the 8th ' t f th€ re6t house is not

i r l i r l i i " ' ih. . "

" . " cani ing facir i t ieE HoPPar rE che name 9iv€n

io i ctutctr of f ive hamlets above Nagar ' the rest house 1s' ln

fact , in the hanlet of Holshal '

on the t lay bacl( ' because t te no fooi l to t ranrport ' we were able to

i i . " . i uv 'p"uf ic t ransPort f ron Hunza to Raralpindi ' ThlE uaE very

. t r""p, f iutut 410 per person frorn GlIgi t to iPindi)

4.€ PORIERSie-" ; ; ; i - t JuLy hir lng our.3o Porters ' The-dai ly !ates of Pav are

set 'out by the governent, leaving the exPedlt lon. to agree the

i l is tance the Porte!5 are contracfed to walk ' v i th the Elen t le

agreed to the fg l lo i r lng BtageB from HoPpar '

STAGE AGREED I.IARCH ACTUAL I'IARCH

1. HoDpar to Barpu ciran 5 hours 5 hours

, , gai iu crram to chokutans 5 hourB 4 hours

; . i i ro i r t "n" to Glrgindi l 5 hours 3 hours

i . c i rq indr ' I to l ' {e l ;ngush 5 hours l 5 Hours

i" . i . i ingutt t to Yakazina 5 houra 2 hours

} |e found the last t \ , ro Etages unsat iEfactory, and Per6ua. le. l the met ' l

to carrY on f iee of chargei

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5b, Yakaz!na to Suja Bassa t hour t hout

' Ie feel the t rek coul i l reasonably be accohPl ished. in 3 days on

l ;"- ; ;ar ; ; journey, we had 9 porters ( ,3 $enbers had dascended

i l i r i " i . t '

I porters) and i t iook 1 '5 - 'davs to reach HoPPar ' As

l l i . !a l ' " l i ; " ;a- ;h" nen s davs. At l '98? ;ates of exchanse' the

"5ut p"t Porter-day was aPProx l6 '

10

l ; t " !3!^." .13"3" n 'a intained a supplv of f resh vegetables such as

l!'ii==i.jft *:ilir:;il:'::":jiiii'i":;n;t;'."i::';::::':'";il]il"":ll-l;,::"i.:::l:,*'::";,!::':';' :1,:l: ":::ol:'3' :'::"'" "i!::rii,!: ::i',ii:;;ll':::i$l+li.l!l=tli"i=;:li*l'i,iri::"*,: i:"3"i1":o:":l iroii! 'I l; ' :;"i-i i-n!l '=u"'v Porter a-qsuPPl l es .

3"i3""11!l',". ::".::;":^?:"::ol:,i'"?"":::;':::'"il'::t:,1"3.1:'!;"1"::'l:l'i;,i"li::i:i':A:'i*.;*i:-if :l:":l:l: :l?:"I"1:'::in:i:":="1:oll'i'iil"l:'o'

i;'i"i?"I. .e., ::: i.:'::l: ̂.:":" ::l: l"::l:".:1 ";:'l ; ll"-3l3'.' ilSi'Gilgl t and Nagar we

" : l : "" ; : ; " ; ; - ; . " ieceiuea, one.nane croPPed uP

::. l i ' : l l: l: l l, 'H':3"I"1'j?"li-"l i"l. "" l::-y::k:: es a cook 1n

:ii;i'i.:l;lFn";xlm;'ii:i;lii:"::'i;, n:":i;""u:ll:l'l:*::"ever cotrpfalned o' n ' " tooi ' i i i ' ' ] " " - t t "n rook€d ior l tard to h!5

dhal and r tce'

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5. CLIMB ING

The col-den Pi l . Iar is marble. The rock is c!ystal l ine' . a lmost

suqary rn parts, DuE general ly sound. fhe Pi l1ar is the coup de

;;J; ; ' " i a vertrcaL oi tc 'op oi metarnorPhic l i t restone' ! 'h ich

i"uctroqt the qlacrers f rom above the viLage of HoPPar ' Looking

;" i ' ; ; ; ; hrgn 5n the Pi l tar v,e uere able to 6eo the cream'ye1l 'ow

iocx . r . ing' f .on galc ier to glacier for f i f teen ln i les ' l ike a

ser ies of ra inbo!,rs.

The Pi lLar is the c lear, unavoidabLe chaI lenge of the nountain '

l i uo. tu f rom the glacier for 2,200 n. The sul l l rn i t is aL'oLrt 300 N

trrgher and set back' perhaps, 3 knr f ron the Fi I lar '

Ne saw the Pi1lar 1n 1984 wht le at temPting to c l lmb Bolohagurbu"" i=ir , a 24,Ooo f t t$ountain direct ly above the Karakoram

i: ,ot . ,uy, Not only did we fai l to c l i t r \b the tnountain ' but a

i i t l .n. l " valk inq c lub nade the f ! rst a6cent ehl le we {ere there'

r t ' "v uu"a f rve 6amps and severaL kl lohetres of f lxed rope' whi le

,n"- i " i " " t t " .pt1ng

an 'AIpj .ne sty le i aBcent ' tn sPi te of th is

obvious di f fe ienc; in at t l tudes' vhen Phi l But ler and r met them

on Oav fO of our gruelLing l4 aay ct inb' they were very decent '

rhev of fered us f ;od and had klnd words about our ef for t '

The 1984 Bojohagur ExPedit lon eas an NLMC (North London

l lor . rnt" i t t "ut ing aub) ai fa i r ' 6nd 1t vaE Inuch the Ealne teatn that

seeinq the Goiaen Pl i iar tn 1984, knew they would have to r€turn'

rven ihouqh Golden Peak ras on the hor lzon' i t *as c lear that

solrethrng-renarkabLe, ve!y nasty even, decorated 1t 's North

tace. At f i rst the Pl1lar renj .nded us ot cenotaPh corner '

In EncIand, fu! ther enqulr ieE revealeCI a l j t tJ 'e of the nountain 's

nistoiy. Froln Poland the encyclopeadic KowalevEkl sent us Eohe

ohotociaphs taken fron xunyani chisn. Nazir sabir ' Doug scott and

i ; ; ; ; : - ; ; ;a ' . ; "kt (ebo per ish;d on K2 dur ing the lweful Eunner of

1986) aLI k indLy donated i f ront oni Pr ints ' vhich al l but

oersuaaled us !o cancel ' At about th ls t tne ve began to conPare

in" pir f " t to t t re t ' la lker spur, Juet a r t t t le hlgher ' 6nd perhaps

a biL harder.

A]so du! lng 1986 the teah gel led. l t vas to consist of the- i . io i ' .or i t i . t

Fh! l (Lobbbyi But ler ' Mick For j ler ' Dr John EngI i6h'

"rO-i ,v i" f i , togettrer v i th two NLMC lnenlbers nev to th is sort of

i i in l ' , l i " Al l !n and Bruce crai9. George Fowler (Mick's father) 'or . r , I l i . iuor1 of f icer, Dr Iqbal Ahmed and Rajab zal tar our Nagar i

cook col l tPleted the exPedit ion tea|n

l , te establrshed our Base at a place knoin !o the Iocals as suja

Bassa c 4ooo n. on l4th JuIy. Tbe narch froh the road head at-

HoDpar haal taken f ive days, though i t could easi ly have been done

l ; ' ;h. . ; . The porters had or i91n;1ly wanted to make six days of

! t , but we comprinr ised on f iv6 and a 9oat. ( I t is " t radi t ionaln

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for expedi t ions to give their Porters a goat) ' Vis i tors to th isreqion shoufd nole that the dai ly rate of Pay to the Porters isr ,of excessive, but the ' t radi t ional i day stages can be as shortas one and a hal f hours. This makes Nagar the nost exPenslveregion of the Karakoran for exPedit ions. He found-the Hoppar menhoiourable. Having struck a bargarn' they invar iably stuck to i t '

l le ha, le a i lunp of gear two hours above Base at a Place t{e calLedHewit t 's cemp, (There Ltas evideoce that the Canadian Geologlsthad used the satne 6i te j .n 1986). Herr i t t '5 eas dj . rect ly across thesna11 colden Peak glacier f rom the base of tbe Pi l lar ' at c 4 '500tn. Frol l l here ue could see the Pi l lar was devided lnto loursect ions. First 'a four hund!ed metre Pinnacle ' the Ftrst Tolrer 'barred access to the long serpent j .ne goow Arete. The SnowAlete ended in a 5na1l . steP, l rh ich led to the th i ld sect ion' aLrnv Hanqrnq GIecier. The fourth Part waE the Point of theexcirsts5. i ,2OO n of lJal l ' l ike a great sPear thrust into thesky.

On the 19th July, Fowler and I nade a Prel lmlnaty r€connaisanceof the approaches to t .he Pi1lar ' ( i t took chree days to reach theHanging Glacier) . Mean{hi le ' EnglrEh and Al Ien made a start onthe-Deicent Ridge' Th€y were EtoPPed by t leeP Enow and indi f ferentneather, but noa be{ore they had cl inbed tho ln i t ia l 400 ! lProninence, a sort of pyrarnldaL lower ' But ler anel Bruce insPectedthe the Yengut2 PaEs, t th ich had not

' so far as i 'e knev, been

crossed, This inr t ia l f lurry of act jv i ty L 'as fo l loved by a Per iodcharacter i .sed by var lous at temPts !o c l imb ei ther the Pi l lar ' orthe Rj .dge ,hich fa i led In outburEtE of aPpaLl ' ing i |6ather '

on the evening of the 5th August FouLer and I walked up toHewit t '6 Camp knowjng this waE our last chance to t ry the route 'Fowl.er, a c iv i ! servant, i ras du€ back at h i6 desk on lhe 23rd' 18

days t ine. I f \ le al loved 10 days tor the c l lhb' h€ would iugtnake i t .

He had packed careful ly af ter lunch, checkinq and rechecklng eachdetai l . A great 66nEe o! late hung ln the af lernoon l ike aniDp€ndrog i torn. He Packed and r€packedl our 6ack6' t id ied the

tents, la i .d out our c lothes in oraler uo! i I there were nodisplacenent act iv i t ies lef t . then l re shoulde!ed the enourmoustoa'ds, and sordLesEly began to $afk. The neather was var iable inthe el t t reme, t t lere va6 even a In ino! snos stor l rL l , th i le we $'erewalking.

Dur j .ng that night we cl inbed the 1000 !n to the Hanging Glacjer 'and sient the ;enainder of the 6th Praying for good leather ' on

Day 2 we uere for tunate, and start lng at 4.00 af t , were abLe to

cl lmb l -0 pi tches of s labs and waLls to reach the AmPhitheat!e by

5.OO pm. i t tas i rnportant to reach the AmPhitheatre, there \" 'oul 'dhave teen no possi6i l i ty of f ind:ng a bivouac lealge on the glabs'

He ha, l thought, when we starteal , that the nain di f f icul ty on thls

'tt

day would be the 1i t t le wa11s i lh ich croseed the elabs' and alarger waf l that barred access to the AnPhitheatre ln fact ' wefolrnal the reverse was true, there rras no ice on the rock' and thebfank surfaced slabs of fered Precar ious c l rnbj .ng I^t i th noprotect ion. The wa11s, however ' contained cracks iJhich could beaLeaned of snow to provide the occasional runner.

On Day 3 the weather iJas not so k ind' and ve EloPPed al middayfor a brew ! ]h ich became a bj .vouac' as i t begaD to snow heavi ly.Ne had cl imbed out of the Amphitheatre by a steeP system ofchimneys and grooves This was one of the fe! | Parts of the routewe had not be;n able to exanine with binoculars, so f rom a ioLrtefrnding point of v lew we had Passed one of the two cruxes. Thisday also included some of the nost technical ly denanalng cl inbingoi the !oute. The f1!st p i tch ol t of the Atnphi theatre was agroove wi!b an overhanging sect lon. Mlck nanaged !o place twowobb).y pegs above his head' then began to svear l -oudly andforcrbiy, . , for a long t i lne' He could not, i t seems' c l iP the Peg5because the sl ing was stuck under hi5 hood The belay was onblack sha1e, ano Mlck was gr inning l ike a cat wi th two tai15' ashe pointed to the shale chinney that cont inued in the direct ion\re wanted to c l imb l t looked coated 1n lnches of th ick lnvi t ingice, but we \ . rere deceived. The pl tch lJas horr ib le, vergfas onshale f ragnents.

Al though i t snowe4l overnight ' the next norning broughtvis ib l l l ty , i f not c lear 3kj .e3. As the nj .stE receded werecognized t t re featu!e5 that vould act as lan. l narks. I t wasenough to go on with. l . le began to fo l low l lnes on lhe r tght wal lot . the P!t Iar . By nidday ue reacheal a 1ar9e f lat ledge' the toPof a giant janhei t bIock. Her€ i ,e tnade tea and relaxed' unt i l t :occured to us to look uP.

' le uere surrounded by overhangs'

conpletely blocked 1n. Fowler 1ed an a1d P!tch to gain the loueeto! a ser les of ranPs, using a technique that had been develoPedin Europe j .n the days of Hecktnair . I had never seen anyt lng ] ik€i t , but Mick was not p!ePared to learh new tr icks just then. Thelouer rahps lead to a shield vhich $as the other area ofuncertainly for us. Prom Base cahP there appeareA to be no l lneround this feature, but a hj .dden chlmney revealed i tsel f at theend of the ramp. I t was blank sided' and there was no belay atthe top, so I was fo!ced to belay Mick by rredging ny body acrossthe Chimney, and aski .ng hin not to fa l l of f .

r do not renember havlng a nore miserably blvouac than the one wehad that ntght. He trere benighted, sonething we said ve wouldavoid at a1i costs, and theie was no ledge' nor any possibiLi ty

^f ^, , r r ,n- ^-F. .h fhc t l - rn rce. t le used the tent as a hangingbag, inside which Mick sPent the night hanging in his harness'whl le I stood rn ny rucksack. l t snowed a1I night.

fhe 3.3c alarm was greeted l r i th rel ie! . I t i fas Day 5' looking uPwe coufd see the f lnaf ranps. l lhen we reached them' they lookedeasyt as we cl imbed the truth daqned on us. They were covered ina layer of powder snow, which $rhen swept of f ' revealed blank

14

rock, r ,o !unners ' and the imPending side wal1 Pushed-you of f

; . i i . " ; . . we had hundred foot run outs ' and lots ' and lots of

i " . i . - r f r . t . ranPs in turn led to the f inal cornerr a vert jcal

t , , ,oxsf t .p.a ccrrnLr under an earshaped serac' l '1 ick rnade-short work

l i - l r ' t " - i i i r t . ' r ! ies, banglng rn the pegs ui th care (r had aske' l

h i rn not to dis lurb the serai above us ) And then we found the the

rno" f" .atng Lo Lhe Plateau so deeP' re began to have horr ib le

thoughls of being forced doun the i ,ay t |e had got uP'

the next day, Day 6, \ . ras to be our sunni t day' At 6 '00 anr 'we

started out f rom the tent, I 'eaving al l but our c lothes and a

siove Uefr ioa. At 12.45 ptn, we sto6d on toP of the Golden Peak I t

" iu in" r r r r r August tgei ' He col ld see Bojohagur ' Batura' Diran'

I r ivor anal othei large Peakg, but f rotn Kunyang chish black c louds

weie invaaing the skt . ihe storm overtook us wi th jn the hour '

First the el6ctr ic shocks, ue hia, t ry ing to bury- oursefves-.and

""r i in t f ra snor. ' ; then high vinds 3! tePt in f ron t l te South l ' le

l ; ; ; " - ; . - i t ; " ; iears for the te l r t , we toutd ihnagtne i t f lv ing

loin ' - to U.t" carnp in ai lvance of us The winds brought d! i f t ing

Eno{ and white oul . Our t racks dlssaPpeared' l i le rere high on the

o1"t"uu, Surrouni l by PreciPiceB. l ' le found' af ter a bi t of

: ; ; . ; ; ; : ' ; ; i i ; ; - , - t i ' l t ' i r

uL got down on al l rourE' t re could reel

i f r l sot tness in the s loPe whtre our t racks had been f i l led lD' 60

we crawled down to ards the tent '

By the t f iorning of Day ?, the eeath€! had legained l ts conpo6ure'

t ' t uas c1ear,-and veiy, very cold Below uE a Eea of c loud t t l led

the vaIIevs. Thj .s v,ra s "rorry lng,

becauEe we couLd not be sure

; ; ; r ; - ; ; - ; ; t " to leave the'Pl ; teau i f we could not see the

d-scent r tage. Dur lng the c i1.b ' ' "

had noted a longue of Plateauui i " i " t t ing 6ut over i t re r idge. on on thrE Tongue' l ry Eolre ice

i i . " t " , -"r i i " i , we !e!errei l t5 as the rcrumbB' on the Tongue'

i i i " i - i r t . "" rorry ing hours of croEsjng the high plateau' w1!h t ts

; ; ; ; ; " ; ; " iarge inoigtr t to Ewal low s batt leshiP' r re arr ived at

t i r " i "p. t an- lce fe i1. There below uE were the crumbs The

""- i rJv ' r .g was receaing anel tbe

- tongue^nas reveal"ed' but l rhere on

the eClqe of the ronque i |ae the desc;nt? Ne kner ' that i ! we picked

; i l ; ; ; ; ;9- ;p; ; ; ' 'o t -o"rv

! 'ou1d ! 'e rniss the Ridge' but a lso be

absei l ing over 1ar96 seracs rnlo 6Pace'

Descendinq the ice!al l !nvoLv€al making ou! l i !s t ever Enow

;; i i ; ; ; - ; ; " ; i i " , but these lead to th; ronsue' ehere we found the;" i " .u=" l ,ere 40 feet hi9h. GuesEing th€t the ! ie lge would be near

the t ip of the Tongue' we Pi tched the tent and waited for the

.J=t- [ ! . i " " t i lown to the val ley. we made brew' and dozed' l ' le

; ; ; ; i ; . i ; tg hental lv t i red, anb needed to get down At 5 30 pm

ir ] . -a i" t . :^J. tua. l le haa no idead nenn for snow befays' and so

""-arg " large hole in the soft Plateau'- I .9?l " t - ,9: :P

into the

tor" !u pou=iu:-e ' and we had a " i ive nani belay' Mick gingerry

=i .pp"a io"utau the edge' then qot on hrs stomach and crawle' l

towards i t . I t \ ras an . .uy "or, , i . . ,

and he descended a few feet

before coming back to the belay'

iwe l .1 Mick'How is i t? i

1'

nYou try, ,was al l he 9atd.

I Looked ove! the edge of the cornice' an' l salr the Descent Ri dgeEurely t le l rere

snakinq down to the EngLjsh_Al1en Proninence Eurely t le were. - . - - . . , . .^ r l ra^. lw T beoan to debate the vaLue of

lorr ' r9 i , . , tu i"" th js cI inb. o] t :?dI^1,?:9: l - : :i i - " i r . wi ' . t is the Point of mountalneer lng?ihat nonrent that the Dature of the goa1 did

alr iven to reach for goals ' but we can learn

There is no Pot of gotd, onty the rainbow'

n I suPPosesociety.nannounceal

i t 's because we l ive in an achievenent or ientatea

I said to Mick. He J 'ook€d at me as i f I had just

I was stark star ing mad.

I t Beened to lne innot hatter. l i le areno lessons fron them.

In the tent we i l iscusseal our Plans thould we get doih safely '

6. ," i - - io t f r" North I could see the tengutz Har Pass' .1 deciaed

i f , . t at t" t a days rest I 'dould t ry \" i 'h th€ oth€rE to.cr066 that

Dass. Fo!, ler sald that l f we could get down the next day' ne

; ; ; ; ; - ; " i i

o,r t to t topp". the next morning' take the Jeep and buE

i i -6 i to l i - l l " io l rowl 'ng day and hoPe to c i tch hls Prane to Londonf rotn I ; lamabad on sunday.

" l lhv the qreat rush?n I aEked.

" ; ; : " ; ; : i i - t . .n" bv Mondav the r6th t 6ha11 have palkeac;; i i1 ' t*" ; ;

" t 'o" i u 'na". th; t crv l l service deBk and 6av€d

{eek's annual leEve, knor xhat I nean Vtc?i t le taPPed lhe

hls nose .

a {ho1es ide of

IqLaL Lobby, Bruce anal nysel f d i .d €ventuol ly conPLete the

t i " . , " rs" o! the pass. 1t took us four hard days for the round

i i rp I t r " r , I 'onger than t{e ant lc lpated' t " le maele the-.mlstake of

sel i inq our rop. in t t lapar then descendlng.the the Hl6Par Gorge

;; ' ; ; ; ' " ; ; ;s- ; :nk. ! ' {e fbund ourselves sor6ing acroas di f f icul t

io" i " f l *Uing

ground above the roar jng HiBpar Rlver ' The other

i i i . . uho""a'qieat Pat iencc, val t ing ior ne' t t red End 6maciate ' ! '

As for Fowler ' : don' t know where he got the energy. f rom' but he

f iuor, i tn" f !1qht. By uonaay norning' -9 '30 sharP' those crvi l

ser i lce shoes were under that c iv i l servlce DeBk'

16

J

6, CONCLUSToNS

::,' :.i::i ::::: l: i:'.".i1: :?;:lt:i:: : -::;i' il;"l

":lil"i

se f r on

*iil:li:iil:::=:li.'j_;:;,1,::;i:;: ;:,;t";:"lni:,i:,':"o3??":'"' "i::l: ; ::,[:i;*iii-:i;t;5;,i:'i:r,: i:{:i.'::$;:::li:la':";:}'::;:l:l liil".: l::::,1;-::.i: ! ";iil:l!=i; :::":;"!i':"i.;: o,,ry = i,, .exoer lence, and so we uent ouL_r-r \ rcr ,e i , l

- , - . -n""r f r rend5. Tbat we

i:luili:i:::il"t":t,:::"':'":::.1; :'3"::::':i:.":li' have beenan excel lent t r iP anyway'

?. BIBLIOGRAPHY

l;l?llil-,,,:::i:l:fli':-"."1:lil:.'i:l:?i:liii:i,i$iit',irtt;itt;iil.l"::i*it"i;ii:;F::i'l : i : ; : , i^:: '"t l l l l i l i i ; Heists or the Must6eh"

)

J

I

p, ?? et Eeq

Cic€rone 19?8, 9.1?3 et 5eqRaiako r an"

Conslable 19 08

J

J

J

I

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I

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I

I

1

l

8 . AC KN OI,I L E DG EI'IEN T E

ou! expedl t i on could not

support of the f oI IoL' inEhave taken Place wtthout the generous

lndrviauats and organiaat lons i

Alpine gPo r tBBalclays BankBerqhaus Ltdi i i i i ! t ' - vount" inee r ing counc i IRab Ca r r inglonCa rol i ne E6tcourt

-Nrck E6tCOurt luarqShiefa Har r i Eoni r ' i . r i i iu.a Jrranl of the PakistEn Enbassy

Zbl9n iel ' l Ko!"ra1e\ ' l5k l - - .l lar ion Lawrence ol Hr^

Janu6z l {a jerMount EvereEt Fo\rndat ! on

Naztr 6abirDouq Scot I

: l ; [ i : : : ; : ; i : "n or rhe North FaceMargaret Urnst onchr i stoPher watts

We thank then al ' l '

APPENDlX 1

r5.10.198622.10.19852e.10.1986

EXPEDITION LOG

1986

Letter toLetter to

deposl tnews f ron

Pakistan EnbassY ' London '

Mr ni st rY of Tour ism' Pakistan'oi- ioof l l " t io" handed ln to Enbassy cash

reful-ed.Enbassy that the aPPl icat ion has been

16.12.198619.12.198619.12.1986

14.0t .1981

26.01.198?

re!used.; ; ; ; ; ; - i " Mjnistry of Tour!snr cheque encfosei l '

; ; ; ; ; ; i ; .^ Presi-denL Ac to utntstrv of rour isn'

; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ' ; ogre Expedi t ion on behal f of a l ' r the

stranded exPedi!1ons.; ; i . ; ; ; a. p lk istan Arnbassador on behal f of the

stranded exPedit ioDs.iu i i l t t to^ 'Presldent RGs to Br l t ishi l i . " iu"a ' asklng for , .n!ervent ion j f

i . i ter to Pakistan Arnbassaelor ' af terexDedit i on had received PermiBslon '; : i ; ; ; - ; ; ;*"4;"r ' . iu ' " .u ixpedi t ion' invi t ine His

30.01 19e7

19g7Excel lency to r 'e dd j . ngNews from Embassy that l ,6 naveoft ic ia l gertnisEioD, granted to

sDant i k et(Pdi t lons.A! and PB arr lve Ra!,atPindi 'Bc ar r iveE RavatPindi . FirEt

councl l 1nposs !b1e .

the Ogr e

perni6Ei.on at last .GasherbrulnB and

contact v i th IA (L.O.)

Proninence.with 2 Porters. MP, As, PB

'

Hat Pass .af ter c!rcuhnavigat ing the

in 2 daYE 'for deb! ief ing etc.

I t .02.198?26.03. 19 8 ' i

29.07.198?02.0?.198?06.0?.198?0?.0?.198708.07.198?10.0?.198?14.0?.I98716.07.198?1?.0?.198?19 .0? . r987

20.0?.198?22.O1 .19A1

23.0?.1987

24.07. l98?29 .07 ,L9A1

03.0?.J-98705.07.198?11.0?.198713.07. L9 8?14.07.198715.07.198?20.07. 198?

22.01 . !9872?.0?.198?

l . la lk- i n DaY l .Halk-rn Dav 5' arr lve base canP'i i i , i l ,es c i inrb t ' te langush Chish' b ivouac at'p-e, iC,Ll 'Je

c l t rnb MeIangush Al l return to

i ! , r l i u"9t" " lnsPect!oni of P! ILai ' Krtchen

narrowlY n 13 31n9 RaJsb.

MF ' LA, JE ar! ive RaualPindi '; ; i ; ; ; ; t " i i tn9. Mrnibus to c! tgLt ' colrect GF'

r . l inbus io Hunza, 4 JoePs to HoPPar '

5000t0.

col laPses '

Fa,nc i i t "p". t t6e YenEutz l lar P'ss 'L i , ie

" l . i inu the iProminencei on the descent r ldge' rA'

snow A!ete ' a1l return tot,o

tI

IT

cP c1!tnb Metangush ChiBh 'MF,Ag Eet of f avalanche on

MF, As ct inb the Enl ish-AI lenJE,LA'GF ualk out to HoPParBc set out for the PlLlar 'HF,AS,PB,BC, return to BC after 4 days bad weather.

MP,A5 leAve BC for the Pl l lar 'i . i i , l i . " . " t ' suntn! ! of sPant ik ?02?rt t 'MF, AS return to BC'MF walks out to HoPPar 'IA, PB, BC , AS cross YengutzIA, PB, BC, AS return to BCGirqrndl l GrouP.teai wafks out to HoPParTean ar r ives Is lanabad'

18

APPENDIX 2. HEIGHT RECORD

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rrr {rrlJ

rr.F ? l. r-!lz"tsl.

'$ll ,o ,l-!|#tq,

{'.qx |{|ngq?P$

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ooon

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>! '5:n9

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19

APPENDIX 3 MEDICAL REPoRT bY Dr Jgc Engl ish

l i l '!311"i;" .. ..0.'"'"ii ifr i-"' j gi;i ̂!ai "'t-::: ̂ j?':,:l?t":.t' ""=:l;"";::i 1;l ";"uy'.t'"- t i "i

"i r'": ̂;:-:: ' ':::"1:::":i"o[:it::::::1.::=:;;i;'.il ."iuli' ' ' i.in' :::T:,":::I"i:.'li"*il.li"::::iii il:::-:'ji.'!ii-i"i-'uiii-:::i:1":"::"1::,.'1,'u'::"i"?;"31'.i:':]'1, i l:::i:"':":;;"91 ;:':;l;.:li:;i::,1;:::i:"i:t='=.,:' l:"3:.:::"ii e:i;i::':."1:'o::;:';:.;:il!' ir;_i:i::"::":::'tl: i::"ilo:;'uIIT

IIII

IIttII

sma11 ia lprne sEyre- cxPEerr l i i l i . i " . .a i l i "es and the weigh!. of

by the amount o! noney avatrdors

such a k i t ,

A wide range of condi tLons were encountered ( tabIe,2) -mainly

in

i l r " ' i " . . : , iopulatron ranging jn their ser iousness !ro$

i"i", "'i'"1 "'." \"i::::: -Th:.Till ::!' i:;"::l:"t !::,?i::';:';;, ""; : f f i : , : ' : ; : : : i" l : i";: l i : i" ' ; ; ' ' ; ; .-; i";; ("ques' 1n Burushaskl)anal one Porter lef t a surpr l ; in61v 1utq" round worl t l (Ascar is

Lumbrrcoldes) rn a Prre " t i ! " t ! i ' "a: t ient to.-our-ProPosed

;; i : ; : ; . A; yet no rnernber is aware of having worrt 'sr

No se! ious consequences of Acute Mountain. : t "11: : : -?""" t ted' onlv

. i r l - i r " ia" . r t . . . ih is was Probably due to the 9t" : : i t^ .

acclrnatrsat lon achreveo ot ' - !ne iafX in ani l Geve!al escursrons to

SoOOtn on local Peaks <t t tn_t i ' " u5e of Diaf tox by sone) before

at!eI lPts on 6Pant r K '

t te thank the fol lo\ l ing for ktnd dona!1ons of l ledical Productsi

Kirby Nar! ickLede!feRoc Laborator les

fable 1i ! I1edIc ines taken

I

pa race tatnolasptr) ,ntenazePanoeth!dinetodeine PhosPhat e

Canesten HCflucfoxaci l l intnet!onidazoleNet i 11in 1.v.chloranPtrenical eye dr oPsstreptotr iade ry lhr omyc i nchloroquinef rusen!deni fediPineDianolAl ualr o xnetocLoPrami decrepe banalagesl ignocaine

9UEUIesneeal le hoLi ler9ter ist t rPsneedlesEvr inqes=u.," . i . "n and f iPsalve

20

III

tI

I

Table 2i deseases encounte I ed

Diagnos i s com[renls

Diarrhoea ( ln i1d)" t No real Problen' obsegsional care

v, i th dr inking t . Iate!

Ascar i6 Lumbricoides Not a Pret ty =ight - , - . . .

AbdoninaL paln Frobabtv the owne! or a uorm

Headeches. Mi ld, d;d not occur t |hen takinq Dianox

Aslnna Sirdar 's cousin

Arthr r t ' ts Cook's knees

Cuts and bLlster5 'ConJunct j v i t1E Porters ' no Bunglasses

Catalacls Sl rdar 'E cou6in

scrofula P r esunably -

tuberculosis ofDre-aur lcuIa r IYnPh nodes

Fleas' i ; ; ; ; ; ' " t= t r rq, l : f the team acquired

theh at BarPu Gl ratn

MiLialra i " i t t t " t t ' iery hot in Ra{alpindi

rguffered by nenbers of lhe tean

IIfIIIIIII

II

III

III

IIIIIil|l

APPEND1X 4

PREDICTED AND ACTUAT, EXPENDITURE

EXPENDI TURE

Flghts (5xuK + lxNz)Freicht ' Gas' Custons etc 'Road-transPort '

'Plndi to HoPParHotels, taxis, restaurants, etc 'Food for wal 'k ' base & cl rmbi n9

Forters uP (30) + 2 goatsPorter s down (9)Pr int j .n9, stat ionary ' 'Phones etcLi a j . son Off icer equrPageLi ai son Off icer cash al lowanceCook snd nai l runnersInsurance for LO' cook' & PortersNew (or renew) equ i PthenCRadlos ( i .a Ik ! e- t aIk 1e)Fi ln (15 rol ls each (6) G{6 ' 00Ne* tents & roPesPeak fee, v i6a; , hef icoPLer bondBMC 1ns!rance

TOTAL EXPENDITURE

Nick Estcourt Ar,a! dMount Everest Foundat i onBr j , t r sh Mountaineer ing Counci lBar cfays Bank PIcNorth London Mounta rneer lng c lub

Expedi t ion menbers

IOTAL INCOMECoEt to each anember

Planned t(4 mernbe r s)

I800

50010001260

64038 430 0500l '50200

5060020024060080050 0

{ 10000

10009oo

' 700

506900

+ rooooI 1123

(6 membersJ3l8 r

' ze4456

10262'16

8I

26e83

540420

110 6919

I 11422

1000900

45050

* tr4zz+ 138?