PhulkariA legacy of

passing thread skills

Compiled by Priyanshi AroraBTEC HND LEVEL 5Fashion and Textile

It is an authentic Indian Traditional Embroidery done on cotton cloth “Khaddar” with the silk threads . The inspiration is taken from flowers in geometric forms.

Phulkari

A "Tawayif" (Courtesan) named "Ilahijan" - Circa 1900(Patiala, East Punjab (now India))

C:\Documents and Settings\PRIYANKA ARORA\My Documents\Downloads\Phulkari -- an old embroidery tradition.mp4

Video on Phulkari

Originated from PunjabLiterally meaning “flower work”phulkari was a part of every important moment of

local lifeA means of socializingPurely a domestic art which not only satisfied

their inner urge for creation but brought color into day-to-day life. 

“Baghs” are the garments made for special occasions

Scattered work is called “Aadha bagh”Work is done on white or yellow silk floss on

cotton “khaddar” with darning stitchWork on the fabric starts from center on the

fabric called “chasm-e-bulbul

Introduction

An old picture of punjab women wearing phulkari dupattas made by them

Examples of PhulkariSilk threads used for

embroidery Base cloth of Khaddar

Birth of this handicraft was basic necessity and family culture and not artistic purpose

This was never fabricated for saleOn birth of a girl child, her grandmother use

to start making clothes for herFinishing of a phulkari marked the stepping

of a girl into womanhoodKhaddar threads were the naturally loomed

dyed threads

History

Originality disappeared due to socio-economic reasons and Indo-Pak division

Each regional group is identifiable by it’s unique embroidery work

Phulkari word indicates shawls that were loomed and embroidered to cover woman’s head or to be displayed in Gurudwara

It is rural tradition of handmade embroidery in north west India and Pakistan during 19th century and early 20th (geographically specific)

MotifsWomen developed various motifs with inspiration

from vegetables, flowers, animals they hadKarela, gobhi, dhaniya, mirchi baghEverything was inspired from the daily lifeLehariya bagh

(wave), satranga and pachrangaMor bagh (peacock)Most common and beautiful are inspired from

wheat/barley stalksRecent new motifs are parantha (originally eight

colors), kanchan design, butti design

Leheriya Bagh Parantha (depicting 8 colors)

Chag (Seieve) design

Nau Aakein (9 eyes)

Jewellery design

Peacock motifs

Wheat and peacock Kanchan design Dhaniya (coriender)

Done with vertical, horizontal and diagonal stitches

No different shades are used for shading purpose

Shiny thread reflects different shades in different directions

Most favoured color is red and it’s shades because bagh and phulkari are used during marriage and festivals

Main colors are yellow, orange, red, green, pink, blue and white

Other colors are brown, blue, blackWhite was used in bagh by elderly ladies

COLORS

Different shades of colors used in a Phulkari design

Materials required

ProcessThe stack• Done on cotton or khadi• Hand spun• Today duppatas can vary

from chiffon, georgette and crape

The threadSilk threads are of various colors are used

With the grid lines

• Ways of doing the embroidery Without gridlines,

called bolpuri

Phulkari embroidery back and front.

• Embroidery is done from the back side.

• Effect is seen on the front

Picture of kaeta phulkari

Some phulkari designs are so bold that their front and back looks identicalThey are known a Kaeta phulkari

TECHNIQUES Darning stitch,

commonly usedNarrowest the stitch,

finest the pieceFor unusual purpose:I. Herring bone stitchII. Running stitchIII. Holbein stitch or

button hole stitch Picture showing different stitched

Darning stitch• Making rows of

straight running stitches near each other

• Used to mend  torn clothes, especially socks and looks like a woven patch. An example of Darning stitch

Herringbone stitchThis is the basic

herringbone stitch made of crosses that are not cut exactly in the middle, but in quarters.

Pictures depicting how herringbone stitch is done

Running StitchThis stitch is done by

running the needle and thread up and down the cloth at a regular distance. 

An example showing running stitch

Buttonhole stitch used to securing

fabric edges.it gives a much

sturdier stitch due to the knots it makes

best done with a slightly thicker thread.

Pictures showing buttonhole stitch process

• Phulkari is present in various forms some of them are:

I. BaghII. ThirmaIII. Darshan dwarIV. SainchiV. Vari-da-baghVI. Bawan baghVII. ChopeVIII. Suraj mukhiIX. Kaudi baghX. Meenakshi baghXI. PanchrangiXII. Satrangi

VARIETY OF PHULKARI

BAGH, THE GARDENCeremonialGarden of flowersEmbroidery so profuse

that ground color is not visible

Embroidery becomes fabric itself

Demand more time, patience and material increasing the exposure

Status symbolPat’s colors: gold,

silvery-white

Bagh embroidery covering full khaddar

THIRMANorth of punjabWhite khaddar is

called thirmaSymbol of PurityElder women

widowsEthical reasons tooPat bright pink to

deep red tonesIncludes clutches

and darning stitches

White khaddar Thirma

DARSHAN DWAREast of punjabGate through

which God is seenMade for temples

as offering, after a wish is fulfilled

Unlike other Phulkaris, not very big part in dowry

Human and animal representation Offered to God by couples

SAINCHISouth-east punjabArt of narrationLocal animals like

goat, cow, elephant, big cat, peacock

Train for transportation

Depicts way of life interest

Small area high embroidery skills

Occupy unique position in variety of Phulkari

Sainchi narrating the life in villages in 19th century

VARI-DA-BAGHWest PunjabGifted to the bride by

in-laws while entering the house

Made on orange reddish khaddar except on border

Embroided with signle golden or orange pat

Pattern 3-4 lozengas of growing size with different meaning where outer symbolise Earth next City third fanilial house

Vari-da-bagh different lozengas

BAWAN BAGHEast PunjabExact 52 patternsDisplay of samples

of skills of embroider patters

Rarest of all

Bawan bagh showing all 52 patterns

CHOPEEmbroidered on

bordersGifted to the bride by

her grandmother during ceremony before wedding

Embroided with two sided stitch making it appear same on both the sides

No variety of colors, single golden or golden-yellow mostly

Khaddar in red or orange

Chope Phulkari

SURAJ MUKHIWest PunjabSunflowerUniqueBecause it

comprises of holbin and darning stitch

Comparable proportion Detail of Surajmukhi Phulkari

KAUDI BAGHEast punjabKaudi used as

coinsNow sign of

humilityWorn when women

have chances of becoming pregnant Dress ornaments

made of CowdiesDetail of kaudi bagh

MEENAKSHI (IKKA BAGH)Gold white colored

patSmall multi colored

lozengas referring to meenakari (enamel work) and to diamond playing card suit

A meenakari or ikka bagh

PACHRANGA AND SATRANGAPachranga bagh

(chevrons with five colors)

Satranga bagh (chevrons with seven colors)

A panchranga bagh

Products Available

Suits Duppatta Sarees Shawls

Other products

Potli Keychain Footwear

Tissue Box Laptop bagMessengers

Some associations are trying to keep it aliveOriginality lost, industrially madePunjab’s villages washed out of their best

piecesEasily available all over the world through

internetPrice rise of fine Phulkari and bagh in very

big proportions

Phulkari Today