Kohlapuri chappal

2/26/2015 1Neha Kestwal; M.Des; Semester - 2

Panorama

2/26/2015 Neha Kestwal; M.Des; Semester - 2 2

• Origin dated back to early 13th century.

•Chhatrapati Shahuji Maharaj was the main promoter .

• Earlier Dhor families Tanning•Chambars families Chappals making.

•Men do cutting, women do stitching and children doweaving the ‘veni’. The entire family produces nearly 35 to 45 chappals per week. Total of 20,000 craft persons are doing this. 5633 units engaging in the manufacture of Kolhapuri chappals

• Shivaji university of Kolhapur has applied for GI.

Kapashi,Paytaan

Kachkadi

Bakkalnali

Pukari

Reasons of “Far reaching popularity”


Eco - friendly

Not harmful for body

Cheaper than other similar product

Traditional

Comfortable

Chappal’s part


A

B

C

D

E

F

G

A – HeelB – Upper soleC – Lower soleD – AnghottaE – Dhetta ki veniF – PattaG – Pan, Mani, ZariH – Anguli ki veni

H

Types of Chappals


MenWomen

•A)Senapati Kapshi•B) Light Kapshi•C) Pudha Kapshi• D)Pudha charmasgi• E)Pudha punching• F)Punching pudha kapshi• G)Zari pudha kapshi• H)Pudha Athni• I)Special Kolhapuri• J)Kolhapuri

• A)Kolhapuri• B)Four veni• C)Six veni• D)Eight veni• E)Maharani chappals

C

D

F

H

C

B

Raw material and tools


http://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapur-chappal/tools/08.html#up




Animal hides Hirda nuts

http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/180858563/Babul_Natural_Dye.jpg

Babool Bark

1 Screw driver2 Rappi3 Hammer4 Palbana5 Scythe

Scrapper

http://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapur-chappal/tools/08.html





http://www.dsource.in/gallery/gallery-0175/fullview.html

Sukha

Chikal matti – Normal clay solution used to join 2 layers while stitching it to the sole.

Slab (Laadi)

Ari

Process of making Kolhapuri chappals


Making Leather Making chappal

Technique of making leather


1

Maceration

http://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapur-chappal/process/leather/01.html#up

Hide is kept in lime water mixture for 15 days in cement tanks.


Pishvi Paddhat( Bag tanning)

2

TapasheTannery, JawaharNagar, Kolhapur



3

Scudding

Removal of flesh patch, hair and fat.

Deliming4

Scrapper is used to remove extra lime from hide

Wooden barrels5

Solution is changed 6 to 7 times a day.


Once the skins are ready, they are sold to manufacturers by the weight (One sheet weighting 6-7kgs is usually sold at Rs. 1200-1500)


Process of making chappal


1Marking


2Cutting and cleaning





3Sole and Heel formation

4Stitching






5Making of Strap



6

Attachment of strap and braid


6

Making of Braid





Polishing

Finishing6

Smoothness is given to edges by motor grinding machine.

http://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapur-chappal/process/chappel/22.html#up

Soaking

8

7

Before polishing chappals are soaked in water, it helps in better penetration of colors.

Wage Rate of Artisian


The wages are paid on piece rate for different process of manufacture. On an average Rs.28/- to Rs. 32/- are paid as wages per pair. The wages paid to different process of job work are:1) Seasoning and cutting - Rs. 9 to 13/-2) Sole stiching - Rs. 51-3) Making of upper belts with veni - Rs. 7/- design work etc.4) Fitting and finishing etc. - Rs. 7/- Total Rs. 28 to 32/-The making charges for upper belts and fitting differ from designs of the chappals.

Source: OFFICE OF THE DEVELOPMENT COMMISSIONER [ HANDICRAFTS ]

Design problems faced by Kholapuri chappal makers


• The artisans did not have a standard pattern of sizing. They used fingers and handfor sizing. This results in inconsistent sizing of footwear. Customer cannot look for size 7 or 9 in a Kolhapuri -he has to try the chappal on.• The stiff base of the chappal was achieved by stitching together layers of leather. A piece of canvas was placed in between to increase the stiffness of the sole. But the stiff base turns soggy in water.• The layers of leather stitched to form sole were temporarily attached using a unique ‘mud’ taken from nearby river.• The two ends of ‘angutha’ are stitched one above the other and pushed between the layers of leather resulting in discomfort.

Craft revival

• Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI) – Technological Support.

• Asian Centre for Entrepreneurial Initiatives (ASCENT) – Social Support Ascent – a Bangalore-based non-government organization with a difference. Ascent is an establishment launched by executives and business people with an interesting method of working, in the downtrodden of this nation.

• National Leather Development Programme (NLDP) – Sponsors When Athani traditional craft of making Kolhapuri and Bandh toe sandals slowly started sinking in this fast-paced world, NLDP, along with other groups of common interest launched on a project aimed at a revamp of the trade; without taking away the skill and craftsmanship of decades standing. This is the NLDP – Athani Project.

• Leather Technology Mission (LTM) – Sponsors Athani artisans and their craft; may have a respectable position in the Indian leather sector, by way of quality technology and design.


Contemporary use


KeychainsSandals

http://images.mid-day.com/2013/may/_MG_1550.jpg

"Aaj pure desh ko Kolhapuri ki chappal kizaroorat hai, taaki pura desh tez gati se chale, (the nation needs Kolhapuri chappals, so that it can move ahead fast)," the Prime Minister said as the crowd roared in approval.


References

• http://www.vigyanprasar.gov.in/Radioserials/kolhapuri%20chappal.pdf

• http://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapur-chappal/tools/08.html#up

• Craft documentation in resource center: KOLHAPUR by Singh Naveen and others CD-0015

• Handmade in India by M.P Ranjan

• http://planningcommission.nic.in/reports/sereport/ser/stdy_ict/9_leather.pdf

• http://handicrafts.nic.in/khol5.htm


http://www.vigyanprasar.gov.in/Radioserials/kolhapuri chappal.pdf


http://planningcommission.nic.in/reports/sereport/ser/stdy_ict/9_leather.pdf

http://handicrafts.nic.in/khol5.htm