Dresses for every occasion

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CHAPTERCHAP

TER1

5

BLUE SLEEVED DRESS

M aceatame provit ipit omnihitiunt.Rumquae magnimi ncitius venihillorae mossimus eruntin vellabor arum ut et as

nonem quam ex et endi aut as dolore nonsendi conseris quiaecero blate siminum eostiis sundae et ad quos ullabor essedis corumquo qui blandit iaeptis doluptium lam et quaturis doloremquist id endamen imosti in et hillenis eate plignam vel iditibu sapicia de derum et fugitiae occum enimporis rem doloreperum qui tota si con reprem et od quam, omnis res nonsequis molest exerum fuga. Nam, quibus si tem seque volum, siti descilitate si beat vollore pellest asi corum eate et molorum lab inulparundae pel ipsape vel ipiet ommod est, sinist est arum ex ex esequaepedis quidi nulparc hicaborro erferch illaciis auteni doluptatiis quuntur, eum faccus vera qui ut

sizes

36-44

7

Blu

e Sleeved

Dress

6 burdastyle modern sewing | dresses for every occasion

Caption Line 1 Caption line 2 paragraph 1 Tinis amet ad eugait praesed tem er alit wis et, conullaore commy nulland ignisi loremins eb

Caption paragraph 2Igendandiore ne pliandebis et eius audis

CONSTRUCTION �Sew seam tape just inside

underarm seam lines on wrong side of piece 23.

�Stitch side pieces to fronts, leaving pocket openings unstitched.

� Inseam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to pocket opening seam allowances, pinning lining pieces to fronts and wool pieces to side pieces. Stitch pocket pieces in place along marked seam lines. Press pocket lining pieces forward. Press wool pockets to front. Stitch curved pocket edges together.

�Stitch side pieces to back. Stitch shoulder seams on coat and facing.

�Notched collar: With right sides together, pin facing to coat neckline, pushing a little extra fullness to lapel corners. Stitch along front edges and upper lapel edges, up to marking. Leave facing lying right sides together with coat for the time being. On fronts, cut along centers of lapel darts 4" (10 cm). Stitch each collar stand to collar. Trim seam allowances and press seams open. Topstitch close to each side of seams. Stitch collar pieces together along outer edges, adding a little extra fullness to top collar. Turn collar right-side out. Lay collar between coat and facing. First stitch

FINISHED BACK LENGTH:39 1⁄2“ (100 cm)

MATERIALS• Wool or wool blend coating: 60"

(152.5 cm) wide: size 36, 38, 40: 23⁄8 yds (2.10 m); size 42, 44, 23⁄4 yds (2.45 m)

• Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 2 yds (1.75 m)

• Hair canvas interfacing, 22" (56 cm) wide: 31⁄2 yds (3.2 m)

• Notions: Stay tape, 1⁄4" (6 mm) wide; 2 sew-on snap fasteners, 1⁄2" (1.3 cm); shoulder pads; 5" × 10" (12.5 × 25.5 cm) batting

PREPARATIONTrace pieces 21-29 from pattern sheet, lengthening pieces 21, 22,

23, and 28 as indicated. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece – it fits all sizes. Cut out all paper pieces.

SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCESLining hem, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm).

CUTTINGLay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:

WOOL:21 front, cut 2

21 pocket, cut 2

22 back, cut 1 on fold

23 side piece, cut 2

24 upper sleeve, cut 2

25 under sleeve, cut 2

26 collar, cut 2 on fold

27 collar stand, cut 2 on fold

28 front facing, cut 2

29 back facing, cut 1 on fold

LINING: 21 to lining line, cut 2

21 pockets, cut 2

22 minus facing width and adding a 3⁄4" (2 cm) ease pleat at center back fold

23-25, cut 2 each

INTERFACING: Cut shaded areas on pattern layout, plus 11⁄2" (3.8 cm)-wide strips for hem allowances.

Wool coating, 60" (152.5 cm) wide

Nap

Fold

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Nap

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Sizes 36–40

See PDF download for pattern pieces 21 to 29.

Size 36 AAAAA

Size 38 ===

Size 40 CCC

Size 42 67 67

Size 44 EEEEE

Pattern layouts

Sizes 42, 44

9

Blu

e Sleeved

Dress


undercollar to neck edge of coat fronts, from each marking to dart. Press seams open. Begin at center back to stitch undercollar to neck edge and stitch lapel dart, as continuous seam. Press seam allowances of collar joining seams open, pressing darts flat. Stitch upper collar to facing, clipping seam allowances into corners. Press seam allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Pin collar joining seams together exactly. Turn back facing up and stitch seam allowances together, close to collar joining seam. Turn facing down again.

�Stitch sleeve seams.

�Set in sleeves, matching markings to distribute ease. On each sleeve cap, lay a 2" (5 cm)-wide batting strip on fabric wrong side, spanning the seam line; hand-stitch to seam allowances to make sleeve header. Sew shoulder pads in place.

�Press sleeve hems to inside and hand-stitch in place.

�At hem edge, turn coat facings outward. Press hem allowance to inside, then

turn back down again. Lay interfacing strips in hem allowance. Turn hem back up and hand-stitch in place.

�Construct lining: On back lining piece, stitch a 2" (5 cm)-long, ¾" (2 cm) wide ease pleat at top and bottom fold; baste in between. Press pleat to one side. (See Sewing Information for a detailed how-to.) Sew lining together like coat, omitting collar and facings.

�Line and hem coat: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining in coat and sleeves. Turn hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch. Turn lining edge under along hem line; press fold lightly, push upward in a shallow curve, and pin to upper coat hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Fold extra lining length down and press pleat lightly. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hems. Fold extra lining length down and press pleat lightly.

�Cover snap fasteners with lining fabric. (See Helpful

Hint, above.) Sew one half of both snaps to right front facing as marked. Lap coat right front over left front, matching centers. Sew opposite snap halves to left front to align with right halves.

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Tip

11

RUCHED SUMMER DRESS

M aceatame provit ipit omnihitiunt.Rumquae magnimi ncitius venihillorae mossimus eruntin vellabor arum ut et as

nonem quam ex et endi aut as dolore nonsendi conseris quiaecero blate siminum eostiis sundae et ad quos ullabor essedis corumquo qui blandit iaeptis doluptium lam et quaturis doloremquist id endamen imosti in et hillenis eate plignam vel iditibu sapicia de derum et fugitiae occum enimporis rem doloreperum qui tota si con reprem et od quam, omnis res nonsequis molest exerum fuga. Nam, quibus si tem seque volum, siti descilitate si beat vollore pellest asi corum eate et molorum lab inulparundae pel ipsape vel ipiet ommod est, sinist est arum ex ex esequaepedis quidi nulparc hicaborro erferch illaciis auteni doluptatiis quuntur,

sizes

36-44

13

Ru

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Su

mm

er Dress


CONSTRUCTION �Fuse bias stay tape to

wrong side of armhole edges.

�Stitch front and back section seams, side seams, and shoulder seams of upper jacket. Stitch section seams and side seams of peplum. Press seam allowances open. Stitch peplum to upper jacket. Press seam allowances open.

�Stitch shoulder seams of facing. Stitch lower facing pieces in place. Press seam allowances open.

�Sew bound buttonhole for large button in right front facing: Finished buttonhole should be 1⁄8" (2 mm) longer than button diameter. For the binding, cut a bias fabric strip 1¼" (3 cm) longer than finished buttonhole and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide. With right sides together, pin fabric strip over marked buttonhole. Working from wrong side of fabric, stitch a ¼" (6 mm) rectangle from all sides of marked buttonhole. Slash between lines of stitching and clip diagonally into corners. Pull fabric strip to inside. Press seam allowances open. At ends of buttonhole, smooth fabric strip and baste in place, within the rectangular opening width for the buttonhole. Turn both long edges of fabric strip into opening to make the binding, and fold so

FINISHED BACK LENGTH 25" (63 cm)

MATERIALS • Lurex novelty fabric, 54"

(137 cm) wide: 21⁄8 yds (1.9 m) for all sizes

• Duchess satin (lapels), 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 3⁄4 yd (.55 m) for all sizes

• Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 1¾ yds (1.5 m) for all sizes

• Interfacing, 22" wide: 2½ yds (2.3 m)

• Notions: Fusible bias stay tape, ¼" (6 mm); 1 fabric-covered button, 1" (2.5 cm); 10 small fabric-covered buttons (sleeves), 3⁄8" (1 cm); 3 sew-on snap fasteners, ¾" (2 cm); shoulder pads.

Read Burda Instructions (on page 74) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

PREPARATIONTrace pieces 1-12 from pattern sheet. Trace facings from pieces 1 and 9 as separate pattern pieces, also tracing buttonhole. Cut out all paper pieces.

The buttonhole on piece 1 is marked for size 36; for other sizes, remark buttonhole according to size lines. The button markings on piece 5 are for size 36; for other sizes, move markings according to the size lines.

CUTTINGLay out pattern pieces on folded fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:

NOVELTY FABRIC: 1 center front, cut 2

2 side front, cut 2

3 center back, cut 1 on fold

4 side back, cut 2

5 upper sleeve, cut 2

6 under sleeve, cut 2

7 collar, cut 1 on fold

9 center front peplum, cut 2

10 side front peplum, cut 2

11 center back peplum, cut 1 on fold

12 side back peplum, cut 2

DUCHESS SATIN: 1 front facing-upper piece, cut 2

9 front facing-lower piece, cut 2

8 back facing, cut 1 on fold

LINING: 1 center front, minus facing width

2 side front

3 center back, minus neck facing width and added ¾" (2 cm) ease pleat at center back

4 side back

5 upper sleeve and 6 under sleeve, without vent allowances

9 center front peplum, minus facing width

10 side front peplum

11 center back peplum

12 side back peplum

INTERFACING:Cut shaded areas on pattern layout, plus 1½" (3.8 cm)-wide strips for hem allowances.

See PDF download for pattern pieces 1 to 12.

Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

Pattern layoutsNovelty fabric, 54" (137 cm) wide

Sizes 36 - 40

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�Mark ends of buttonhole with straight pins. Working from back side, cut buttonhole open then clip diagonally up and down 3⁄16" (5 mm) long at the ends. Turn cut edges under and sew to binding, with small hand stitches.

�At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside, then turn down again.

�Two-piece sleeve with sleeve vent: Stitch front sleeve seams. Press seam allowances open. On each upper sleeve, turn vent facing and hem allowance to outside and stitch corner at an angle to miter. Trim allowances of mitering seam to 3⁄16" (5 mm) wide and press open. With right-sides together, stitch each under sleeve hem allowance to long edge of underlap. Clip seam allowance of underlap close to last stitch. Turn hem allowances and vent facings to inside. Press edges of hem

and vents. Stitch back sleeve seams up to slit marks. Clip seam allowances into corners and press open. Lay vent facing of upper sleeve over vent underlap and stitch inside edges together from upper edges to clip. Hand-stitch sleeve hem allowances in place. Sew buttons to sleeves, catching underlaps.

�Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps. Sew shoulder pads in place.

�Construct lining: On back lining piece, stitch ease pleat at top and bottom, each 2" (5 cm) long, and baste between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch darts and seams of lining. Set in sleeve linings.

�Line jacket, hem: With right-sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong-sides together, place lining inside coat, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn hem allowance to inside over interfacing strips

and hand-stitch in place. Turn lining hem edge under and press fold lightly. Slide hem upward in a shallow curve and pin to jacket hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. Turn sleeve lining hem edges under and hand-stitch to jacket hem allowances. Lay extra length of lining down and press.

�Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric. (See Helpful Hint on page 79.) Sew two upper snap halves to inside right front edge, with bottom snap at peplum seam and second snap 33⁄8" (8.5 cm) above seam. Space snaps ¾" (2 cm) from front edge. Lay right front over left front, matching center fronts. Sew lower snap halves to left front, to match upper snap locations. Also fasten lapel fold of left front edge to right facing, with a snap. Sew large button to left front to align with lapel buttonhole.

that folded binding edges meet exactly in center of buttonhole. Baste bindings together with long, diagonal stitches. Press. Working from right side, stitch exactly along seam with small back stitches by hand or stitch by machine, thereby catching binding. Remove center basting. Stitch small triangles at buttonhole ends to binding. Trim edges of binding to ¼" (6 mm) from buttonhole edges.

�Notched collar: With right-sides together, pin facing to coat. Push a little extra fullness into lapel corners. Stitch facing in place, along front and lapel edges, up to seam

�Marks: Leave facing lying right sides together with coat for now. Stitch collar pieces together along outer edges, pushing a little extra fullness into top collar, beginning and ending stitching on narrow edges, exactly at seam line

on attachment edge. Turn collar right side out. Lay collar between coat and facing. Stitch undercollar to neck edge of coat and top collar to facing. Press seam allowances of collar attachment seams open. Turn facing to inside. Pin collar attachment seams together exactly. Turn back facing up and stitch seam allowances together, close to collar attachment seam. Turn facing down.

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2. Gait ver sequat lam.

3. Inctius dero con etum.

Tips

17

CR

ED

IT:

XX

XX

XX

XX

XX

XX

XX

DRAPED RED

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Rumquae magnimi ncitius venihillorae mossimus eruntin vellabor arum ut et as

nonem quam ex et endi aut as dolore nonsendi conseris quiaecero blate siminum eostiis sundae et ad quos ullabor essedis corumquo qui blandit iaeptis doluptium lam et quaturis doloremquist id endamen imosti in et hillenis eate plignam vel iditibu sapicia de derum et fugitiae occum enimporis rem doloreperum qui tota si con reprem et od quam, omnis res nonsequis molest exerum fuga. Nam, quibus si tem seque volum, siti descilitate si beat vollore pellest asi corum eate et molorum lab inulparundae pel ipsape vel ipiet ommod est, sinist est arum ex ex esequaepedis quidi nulparc hicaborro erferch illaciis auteni doluptatiis quuntur, eum faccus vera qui ut

sizes

36-44

19

Drap

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4 With right sides together, fold the front and back

pieces along each dart center. Pin the dart lines together. Stitch along the dart lines, beginning at the side seam, backstitching only at the beginning; knot threads at the dart point. Press the darts down.

DARTS

3 With right sides together, pin the back pieces

together. Stitch the center back seam from the slit mark to the lower edge. Press the entire seam open, including the slit edges.

CENTER BACK SEAM

5 With right sides together, pin each pocket piece

to the side seam edges, matching marks. Stitch the pocket pieces to the seam allowances 1⁄8" (2 mm) from the seamline.

SIDE SEAMS, IN-SEAM POCKETS

right side of fabric

1 Lay the pattern pieces on the folded fabric—pieces 2, 4, and 5 with their

printed sides facing down—and pin in place. Cut out the pieces.

CUT OUT FABRIC PIECES

2 Use a tracing wheel or marking pencil to transfer all the pattern markings to the

fabric wrong side.

TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

interfacingwrong side of fabric

FINISHED BACK LENGTH: 37½” (95 cm)

SHOPPING LIST: • Fabric, 60” (152.5 cm) wide:

size 36: 1¾ yds (1.55 m); size 38: 1¾ yds (1.60 m); size 40: 17⁄8 yds (1.65 m); size 42: 17⁄8 yds (1.70 m); size 44: 2 yds (1.75 m)

• Interfacing, 36” (90 cm) wide: ¼ yd (23 cm)

NOTIONS• Zipper, 7” (18 cm) long • Matching thread • Pattern paper • Pencil • Scissors • Measuring tape/ruler • Straight pins • Tailor’s chalk • Marking pencil • Hand-sewing needle

THE PATTERN PIECES FOR THE DRESS The pattern pieces for the dress

BS1206_134WS_TNähschuleBurda Style

BS1206_134WS_TNähschuleBurda Style

Sew all seams at 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) unless otherwise indicated.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of all seams, unless otherwise noted.

Finish all seam allowances using an overcast, zigzag stitch or serger to prevent fraying; no finish is needed for knits.

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Tips

are shaded pink on the pattern insert sheets to make them easy to find. Lay pattern paper over the pattern sheet insert and pin it in place. Trace all pattern pieces in the desired size and transfer all pattern markings. Trace the pocket shape on piece 1 as a separate pattern — it fits all sizes. Cut out all paper pattern pieces.

THE PATTERN LAYOUTshows how pattern pieces are pinned on the folded fabric; dotted lines indicate the piece is face down and shaded pieces indicate the piece needs to be cut from interfacing. Cut the following numbered pieces:

1 Front, cut 1 on fold

1 Pocket piece, cut 4

2 Back, cut 2

3 Front band, cut 2

4 Back band, cut 2

5 Front facing, cut 1 on fold

6 Back facing, cut

11 Press the shoulder seams open along an

ironing board edge. Turn the dress right-side out. Turn bands to the dress right side with the attachment seams positioned exactly along the fold; press. Pin the bands in place and edgestitch.

12 Apply interfacing to the front and back

facing pieces, following the manufacturer’s instructions. With right sides together, pin and stitch the short edges of the front and back facing together. Press the seams open. Finish the lower facing edge. Open the dress back slit seam allowance out flat.

ZIPPER HEM

NECKLINE

13 With right sides together, pin and stitch

the facing to the dress neck edge. Trim and clip the seam allowances. Turn the facing up and understitch close to the seam on the facing side. Press the facing to the inside and hand-stitch it to the shoulder seams.

14 Press the slit seam allowances to the inside over the facing. Pin the zipper

wrong side to the fabric right side with the teeth along the slit edges. Fold under the upper zipper tape ends. Using a zipper foot, stitch close to the zipper teeth, then edgestitch the zipper tape in place.

15 Press the hem allowance. Hand-stitch the hem edges in place.

7 Press the seams open, pressing the pocket pieces apart. On each side, turn both

pocket pieces toward the dress front; pin, then stitch the pocket piece edges together. Finish the pocket edge seam allowances together.

8 With right sides together, lay each front band piece

on a back band piece and pin the straight narrow edges together; stitch. Press the seams open. On each band, press under the seam allowance on the lower unmarked edge.

9 Lay the unpressed edge of each band on the

corresponding upper front and back shoulder edges, with the right side of band facing the wrong side of dress. Pin the band in place between the marks. Stitch the band to the dress, beginning and ending exactly at the mark. At the mark, turn the band ends back and pin in place.

10 Turn the dress right-side out. With wrong

sides together, lay the dress front on the dress back. Pin shoulder edges together, from the marks to the neck edge. Stitch the seams. Turn the dress wrong-side out again. Fold the shoulder edges of dress down. With right sides together, pin upper edges of the loose band ends together and stitch.

BANDS AND SHOULDER SEAMS

6 Press the pockets outward. With right sides together, pin the dress front to the

dress back. Stitch the side seams leaving the pockets open between the two marks.

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Design

Dresses for every occasion