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DENIM - SPRING SUMMER ‘13
MARCH 2012DENIM DESIGN DIVISION - MATTHEW BRAUN
SPRING SUMMER 2013OVERVIEW
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
Indigo dying
Herringbone
Ecru/White
Contrast stitch
Raw/Rinse
Dead stock
Pastels Turn up
Vibrant colours
Coating/Staining
KEY TRENDS FOR DENIMWHAT TO LOOK FOR !
WHITE/ECRU DENIM
SATURATED INDIGO DENIMS
NEW COATINGS
DEAD STOCK BLUES
TURN UPS
CONTRAST COLOUR THREADS
PASTEL COLOURS
THE ORGANIC LOOK
DENIM BLENDS
THE NEW JEAN?
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
IT’S ALL WHITE
White/Ecru denim comes to the high street in force for Spring Summer 13. Create the look through heavy bleaching or using natural undyed fibres. Plays on oatmeal wefts create great vintage looks
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Worn white
Heavy bleach
White non-denim
Indigo staining
Cone Denim Mills
Oatmeal weft
Ecru selvedge
EXTREME DIPPING
Saturated Indigo denims will carry through from Autumn into summer, being a key look across high end and high street. Heavy washes are replaced by slight scraping and tamed whiskers. OD Denim is used to also create this high intensity of depth.
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Japan blues
Minimal scraping
Authentic
Raw coated
OD Denim
Authentic whiskers
THE SUMMER COAT
This summer coatings take a leap forward with experimental brands like NAKED & FAMOUS and ONE GREEN ELEPHANT. New colour coatings/sprays are what to look for, giving a vintage look to coloured denims. Clear Resins on saturated indigos giving a more rigid raw look are proving to be important in the offering too.
LEVIS take this to the next level with their commuter jean, coated with a waterproof finish protecting you and your denims from the elements.
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Colour coatings
Dry coatingsCrinkle
Clean washingNew ideas
DEAD STOCK BLUES
A trend which is becoming more and more evident as the need for anything heritage becomes increasingly popular is Dead stock blue casts of denim. Fabrics are more greyed off, weights are heavy (13oz) and finishes are clean with raws and rinses.
Fabrics look great unmercerized for a textured look and fits are worn loose with ankle swinging turn ups. Return of the rockabilly.
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Crinkle coated
Grey blues
Heritage
New blues
Orange copper metal
New fit
Raw casts
‘ROLL UP’ - ‘ROLL UP’
With washes becoming cleaner and coloured denims becoming increasingly popular. Interests on internals and coloured wefts are seen on the high street. TED BAKER uses lightweight chambray and checks to internal hems, SCOTCH & SODA are using heavyweight vintage pinstripe twill
and premium brands like NAKED & FAMOUS use blanket lining to denims. Selvedges are becoming more evident with high street stores like MARKS & SPENCER delving into this premium fabric construction.
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Blanket lining
New interior fabrics
Chambray interior
Heavy weight
OD colouring
Twisted yarns
NICE THREADS
Right, contrast thread colours are a sensitive point on denim as it can be sink or swim for a pair of denims if the wrong colours are used. Contrast threads have been used badly in the past but this season key brands have used them in very effective ways. LEE has told a story with their four colours spread across
all branding (leathers/threads/metalwork). NUDIE has changed their back pocket stitch colour to a striking green apple for their organic denim collaboration between New York store ATRIUM.
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Colour trims match
New colour ideas
Hand done look
OD colour bleed
Sophisticated colour
Colour stories
SWEET TOOTH
Colour denims seem to be getting stronger and stronger on the high street with BURTONS, TOPMAN & TED BAKER storming in front with new and striking colourways. However SS’13 sees the colours sway from earthy tones in the Autumn to faded blues and reds in the summer.
Team these striking colours with a simple plain top and the essential summer look is complete.
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Faded warms
Colour statement
New greens
Clean finish
THE ORGANIC LOOK
A big trend currently creeping through is the organic look, with the introduction of eco friendly product and waterless denims, organic seems so right, this look has been achieved through neppy denims, coloured wefts, twisted yarns and dobby constructions.
CONE DENIM MILLS successfully previewed their collection at DENIM PV for S/S ‘13 showing their earthspun collection using recycled glass and plastic bags.
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Colour nepps
Wrangler
Twisted yarns
Dobby fabric
Cone Denim Mills
Colour with nepps
DENIM BLEND
Although normally tricky for our current consumer who relates Weight with quality, lightweight denim blends are being seen across most of the brands. PAUL SMITH producing a 10oz denim linen blend jean, with the same treatment as a regular denim.
This trend will also play heavily on the organic look but just as a lighter weight option for our summer season. These fabrications will also translate across chinos and shorts easily. Salt and peeper looks along with subtle nepps are great fabrics to look for.
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Heavy Chambray
Subtle washing
Hemp blend
New denim blends
Textural looks
Lightweights
THE NEW JEAN
With the current success of Chinos, denims have been hit hard, this is soon to change and with the use of new fabrications on jean blocks this will help as a transition. Canvases seem to be very popular with RIVER ISLAND, TOPMAN & RALPH LAUREN showcasing these in their
current ranges. Team this with the beautiful available herringbones, seen in ARVIND, ISKO & KOHINOOR mills for a happy middle ground. Finally the use of tobacco stitching and denim wash processes on striking bold colourways as seen above will really push the category into a new level.
MARCH 2012PROPERTY OF DEBENHAMS PLC
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Heavy canvas
Tobacco stitch
Coloured yarns
Herringbone
New colourways
Heavy calvary twill
Denim canvas