Course- BDFT/BFT

Semester- II

Subject-Textile Manufacturing Techniques

Unit- I

Topic- Weaving & Woven Fabric

Weaving

Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

Process Flow Chart of Textile Manufacturing

Spinning ↓

Weaving ↓

Dyeing +Printing+ Finishing↓

Garments Manufacturing

Woven Fabric

• Woven fabrics are composed of two sets of yarns, the warp and the weft.

• Cloth is created by weaving the warp and the weft over and under one another. The manner in which the warp and weft are woven over and under one another determines the weave of the fabric.

woven fabrics

made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles

warp yarns—yarns in lengthwise direction (ends)filling yarns—yarns in crosswise direction (weft)

common characteristics

• many different interlacing patterns give interest and texture to fabric

• yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides

• fabrics have grain

• fabrics are relatively stable, with little stretch in warp or filling

Warp & Weft

The warp yarns run the length of the fabric.

The weft yarns, also called the fill, run perpendicular to the warp yarns

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characteristics of woven fabrics

grain—geometry or position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns •on-grain fabric has lengthwise grain parallel to warp yarns & crosswise grain parallel to filling yarns•off-grain fabrics create problems in production & use—do not drape properly or hang evenly and printed designs are not straight

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characteristics of woven fabrics

fabric count—•number of warp and filling yarns per square inch•indication of quality—higher count, better quality

balance—•ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in fabric•balanced fabric 1:1

selvage—•lengthwise self-edge of a fabric•formed differently on different looms

characteristics of woven fabrics

fabric width—•loom determines fabric width•Hand woven—narrow (27-36 inches)•commercial—exceed 60 inches•consumer market—45-60 inches or 54-60

fabric weight•describes how much a given area or length of fabric weighs

naming & diagramming woven fabrics

fabric names are based on:•fabric structure•fabric weight•yarn type•yarn balance•finishes

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1. plain weave

•simplest of the three basic weaves•formed by yarns at right angles passing alternately over and under each other•least expensive weave to produce•no technical face or back unless printed

general characteristics:•tend to wrinkle easily•less absorbent than other weaves•raveling less of a problem•yarn type greatly influences these characteristics

CREATE A PLAIN WEAVE

balanced plain weave

•simplest plain weave•warp & filling yarns are same size & same distance apart•wider range of end uses than fabrics of any other weave•most widely used type of woven fabric•can be made in any weight

Example of Plain Weave

lightweight sheer—georgette, chiffon, voile, organdy, organza

lightweight opaque—lawn, batiste, China silk, challis

medium-weight—percale (calico, chintz, cretonne, polished cotton, glazed chintz) muslin, flannelette, outing flannel, gingham, chambray, madras, pongee, honan, ripstop nylon, ripstop taffeta, true crepe

heavyweight—weaver’s cloth, homespun, crash, butcher cloth, burlap, hessian, osnaburg, flannel, tweed

unbalanced plain weave

•significantly more yarns in one direction than the other•creates rib—ridges of varying size depending upon number & size of yarns

2. basket weave

•made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more fillings•interlacing pattern similar to plain—two or more yarns follow same parallel path•most common are 2x2 or 4x4•variations include 2x1 and 2x3

fabrics that have a basket weave:• dimity• oxford cloth• sailcloth• duck• canvas• hopsacking• monk’s cloth

3. twill weave•each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of inter lacings by one to the right or the left•forms a distinct diagonal line or wale

•can be made on a simple loom•have technical face & back—face has most pronounced wale•softer, more pliable & recover better from wrinkles

even-sided twill weave

•expose an equal amount of warp and filling yarn on each side of fabric•reversible

•even-sided twill weave fabrics:• foulard or surah• serge• twill flannel• sharkskin• herringbone

warp-faced twill weave

•have predominance of warp yarns on face•stronger & more resistant to abrasion & piling

•warp-faced twill weave fabrics:• lining twill• denim• jean• drill• covert• chino• gabardine• cavalry twill• fancy twill

4. satin weave

•each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the 5th filling yarn with a progression of inter lacings by two to the right or the left•can be produced on simple loom•lustrous because of long floats on surface•yarns can be packed very closely together•face & back look significantly different•high count gives strength, durability, body, firmness, wind repellency

CREATE A SATIN WEAVE

satin weave

satin weave fabrics—•satin—warp faced (warp floats cover surface), filament yarns •crepe-back satin—crepe yarns give softness & drape ability•sateen—spun yarns, come in filling sateen & warp sateen

References

1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warp_and_woof#mediaviewer/File:Warp_and_weft.jpg

2. http://www.pilikula.com/handloom.html3. http://www.quiltviews.com/don

%E2%80%99t-let-your-selvage-languish4. http://www.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing/pag

e/2/5. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/21534/21534

-h/21534-h.htm

Thank you