KNIT fabric CONSUMPTION & costing #Method of Fabric Consumption Calculation for Knitted Polo Shirt:

Before going to the consumption calculation, you have to identify the every parts of a

knitted polo shirt. A knitted polo shirt consists with the following parts-

1. Body parts (Body + Sleeve),

2. Collar,

3. Cuff,

4. Pocket,

5. Half-moon.

But pocket and half moon is totally depends on the buyer, if the buyer advised about it,

then you have to do that.

Suppose,

H & M forwards a knitted polo shirt item order (10000pcs) to you with following

specification.

1. 100% cotton single jersey fabric for body parts (Body + Sleeve), Half-moon and

Pocket. Where fabricGSM is 160.

2. 1 × 1 Rib fabric for collar and Cuff. Where the fabric GSM is 230.

Follow the below measurement chart.

Now, find out the fabric consumption for the above order.

So, in the below, now I will present the total fabric consumption method for the above

order in part by part:

1. Fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve):

Here, we will follow the following formula (per dozen),

= 2.48kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) is 2.48kg per dozen.

2. Fabric consumption for Collar:

Here, we will follow the following formula (per dozen),

= 0.12144kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Collar is 0.12144kg per dozen.

3. Fabric consumption for Cuff:

Here, we will follow the following formula (per dozen),

= 0.072kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Cuff is 0.072kg per dozen.

4. Fabric consumption for Pocket:

Here, we will follow the following formula (per dozen),

= 0.03kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Pocket is 0.03kg per dozen.

5. Fabric consumption for Half- moon:

Here, we will follow the following formula (per dozen),

= 0.04kg per dozen.

So, fabric consumption for Half- moon is 0.04kg per dozen.

Now, total amount of cotton single jersey fabric needed for this order is (per

dozen),

= [{Fabric consumptions for Body parts (Body +Sleeve) + Fabric consumptions for

Pocket + Fabric consumption for Half- moon} + wastage (10%)]

= {(2.48+ 0.03+ 0.04) kg + 10%}

= 2.55kg + 10%

= 2.805kg per dozen

So, for 10000pcs (833.33 dozen) polo shirts, cotton single jersey fabric needed (2.805 ×

833.33) = 2337.5kg

And,

Total amount of (1 × 1) Rib fabric needed for this order is (per dozen),

= {(Fabric consumptions for Collar + Fabric consumptions for Cuff) + wastage (10%)}

= {(0.12144 + 0.072) kg + 10%}

= (0.19344kg + 10%)

= 0.213kg per dozen.

So, for 10000pcs (833.33 dozen) polo shirts, (1 × 1) Rib fabric needed (0.213 × 833.33)

= 177.50kg.

#Knit Fabric Consumption Formula for a Basic T-Shirt

Method of Knit Fabric Consumption:

Knit fabric consumption should be done by using the following formula-

Fabric consumption per dozen, (All measurements in cm),

Note:

1. Types of fabric and fabric GSM will be confirmed by the buyer.

2. For body length and sleeve length, approximate sewing allowance (12cm) should be

needed at body hem, shoulder joint, sleeve hem and armhole joint.

3. For chest width, approximate sewing allowance (6cm) should be needed at both side

seams.

4. And approximate fabric wastage in various stages is 10%.

Now, I will provide an example for knit fabric consumption in the following. After

that, all the confusion about the above discussion will be cleared I think. Example:

Suppose, one of the buyer has provided you the following measurement chart of a basic

T-Shirt by mentioning the order quantity and fabric GSM. (Where Fabric is 100%

cotton single jersey and fabric GSM is 160 and order quantity is 10000pcs). Then

calculate the fabric consumption for this order.

Solution:

Here, we will follow the measurement chart for XL size.

Fabric GSM- 160,

Total order quantity- 10000

Body length or shirt length- 79cm

Sleeve length- 43cm

½ Chest width- 61cm

Now, all the measurements are applied on the following formula-

Fabric consumption per dozen, (All measurement in cm),

= 3.45 + 10% (in kg)

= 3.795 kg per dozen.

So, fabric needed for 10000pcs (833.33 dozen) garments is 3162.5kg.

#GSM Calculation for Woven Fabric:

GSM stands at Gram per square meter. It is the weight of fabric in one gram per square

meter. It’s unit is gm/m2.

Crimp Factor:

Crimp percentage or crimp factor is defined as the mean difference between the

straightened thread length and the distance between the ends of the thread while in the

cloth, expressed as a percentage. Woven Fabric GSM Calculation Method:

During calculating woven fabric GSM from fabric construction, we have needed the

following formula.

GSM (Gram per square meter),

Example:

Suppose,

A woven fabric construction is like that-

Now, calculate the fabric GSM.Solution:

From the given fabric construction we can see that,

Warp count- 50

Weft count- 40

EPI (Ends per inch) – 130

PPI (Picks per inch) – 60

Warp crimp factor- 1.2

Weft crimp factor- 1.0

Now, by applying all the data in the required formula, we can easily find out the above

woven fabric GSM.

GSM (Gram per square meter),

= (3.12 + 1.5) × 23.5

= 108.57

So, above woven fabric GSM is 108.57

#GSM Calculation Method without Using GSM Cutter:

During calculating fabric GSM without using any GSM cutter, we should follow the

following steps:

1. At first, cut 5pcs (12cm × 12cm) fabric sample from the different portion of fabric.

(Here 12cm is in length and 12cm is in width).

2. Measure the weight of each sample in one by one method.

3. Now, calculate the average weight of fabric sample.

4. Also calculate the fabric sample area by multiplying length and width.

5. Now by putting “average sample weight” and “fabric sample area” in the following

formula, we can get easily the fabric GSM.

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GSM calculation formula (in case of without using GSM cutter),

Example:

Suppose,

5pcs (12cm × 12cm) size fabric sample weights are 1.8gm, 2gm, 1.85gm, 1.90gm and

1.95gm respectively.

Now,

Average weight of (12cm × 12cm) size fabric sample is,

= 1.9gm

And,

Sample fabric area = fabric sample length × fabric sample width

= (12 × 12)

= 144cm2

Now,

GSM (in case of without using GSM cutter),

= 131.94

So, fabric GSM is 131.94

#CBM Calculation Under LCL Sea Shipment

A freight forwarder charges the freight cost on the basis of CBM. CBM means cubic

meter. In garments sector, it’s a known term for all the merchandisers. Accurate CBM

calculation has a great importance on reducing shipping cost. Because, if the cargo is full

container loaded (FCL), then you have to pay the freight charge in full container load

(FCL) basis, but if the cargo is less container loaded then you have to pay the freight

charge in Less container load (LCL) basis. As its importance in merchandising, today I

will discuss about the all parts of CBM (Cubic Meter) calculation.

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CBM (Cubic Meter) CBM Calculation Under LCL Sea Shipment:

Before starting the CBM calculation, at first you have to find out the length, width and

height of a carton, here you should also find out the total quantity of carton for an order.

If the length, width and height measurements are in “inch” unit, then you have to

convert these into “centimeter (cm)” unit by multiplying 2.54 (as we know, 1

inch=2.54cm).

After converting from “inch” unit to “centimeter (cm)” unit, now you have to convert

these into “meter (m)” unit by dividing 100 (as we know, 1m=100cm).

Now, yours all length, width and height are in “meter (m)” unit.

In this situation, you must follow the following formula,

CBM calculation for 1 carton = Length (m) × width (m) × height (m)…………… (1)

CBM calculation for total carton of an order = CBM calculation for 1 carton × total

number of carton quantity ……………… (2)

Now I will clear all the above explanation by providing an example with solution.

Example of CBM Calculation:

Suppose,

Total cartoon quantity of an order is 5000 (Every carton is in sane measurement).

Length for each carton is 22”,

Width for each carton is 15”,

Height for each carton is 6”.

Now, calculate the CBM for shipping an order.

Solution:

Carton length = 22” = (22 × 2.54) cm = 55.88cm = (55.88/100) m = 0.5588m.

Carton width = 15” = (15 × 2.54) cm = 38.1cm = (38.1/100) m = 0.381m.

Carton height = 6” = (6 × 2.54) cm = 15.24 cm = (15.24/100) m =0.1524m.

Now by applying formula number (1), we have-

CBM calculation for 1 carton = Length (m) × width (m) × height (m)

= (0.5588 × 0.381 × 0.1524) m3

= 0.03244639 m3

Now finally applying formula number (2), we have-

CBM calculation for total cartoon = CBM calculation for 1 carton × total number of

carton quantity

= (0.03244639 × 5000) m3

=162.23195 m3

So, CBM calculation for 5000 carton is 162.23195 m3.

#Calculation of Button Ligne for Garments:

Ligne is a French word meaning "line" and it is abbreviated with the letter L. Internationally, ligne is used to recognize button size. Ligne is a liner unit (1/40 inch)

used to measure diameter of buttons. Usually watchmakers, button-makers and hat-makers use Ligne to measure their product size.

Before calculating button line we should know following measurement:

1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm,

1 ligne = 0.635 mm

12 Pcs = 1 Dozen,

12 Dozen = 1 Gross,

12 Gross = 1 GG (1728 pcs).

Example-1: Figure out ligne of a button with 10mm Dia? Answer: 10 / 0.635 = 15.75 ligne or 16 L (L means ligne) Formula: Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or 1 / 0.635 x button Dia in mm Example-2: If Button length (dia) is 12.7 mm then Button ligne will be ? Answer: Button dia (in mm) / 0.635 = button ligne 12.7 mm / 0.635 = 20 L (L = ligne ) Result = 20 L Example-3: Per shirt has 6 buttons, total order quantity 3456 pcs, figure out total button quantity in GG ? Answer: 6 x 3456 / 1728 = 12 GG.

Formula: number of buttons per product X order quantity / 1728 (1 GG = 1728 pcs) Note: We need add some extra quantity (minimum 3%) while counting buttons for an order to save us from risk in case of shortage due to defective & damaged. #LC( LETTER OF CRADIT):

There are mainly two types L/C. these are-

1. Master L/C,

2. Back to back L/C.

Both of those are described in the below: 1. Master L/C:

When a L/C is opened to import goods directly from the exporter is called master L/C.

This L/C is issued by the buyer (Buyer’s bank) to manufacturer. Master LC has higher

financial value than back to back L/C.

2. Back to Back L/C:

When a L/C is prepared by the manufacturer to collect raw materials for production

from the suppliers is called Back to Back L/C. Back to Back L/C has 70-80% financial

value of master LCs.

Difference between Master L/C and Back to Back L/C:

SL No. Subject Master L/C Back to Back L/C

01 Definition This type of L/C is prepared by the buyer to import goods

from the manufacturer.

This type of L/C is prepared by the manufacturer to collect raw

materials from raw materials supplier for the production.

02 Issued Bank

Issued by the buyer’s bank. Issued by the manufacturer’s bank.

03 Types of L/C

It is a basic L/C. It depends on master L/C

04 Purpose To import goods from the manufacturer.

To collect raw materials from the Raw material suppliers.

05 Financial Value

It has higher financial value than Back to Back L/C.

It has lower financial value than master L/C.

#COUNT RELATED TO GSM Single Jersey:

1. 130-150→ 30’s 2. 160-170→ 26’s 3. 180-200→ 24’s (210) 4. 220-240→ 20’s

B. P.K./Lacost/1x1 Rib:

1. 150-170→ 34’s

2. 180-200→ 30’s 3. 210-225→ 26’s 4. 230-250→ 24’s 5. 250-270→ 20’s

C. 2x1 Rib:

1. 220-230→ 30’s 2. 240-250→ 26’s 3. 260-280→ 24’s

D. Interlock 24 G -22 G

1. 40’s→ 220 - 200 2. 34’s→ 250 -230 3. 30’s→ 260 -240 4. 26’s→ 275 -260

E. S/J with Lycra 5%:

1. 150-160→ 34’s 2. 170-190→ 30’s 3. 200-210→ 26’s 4. 220-240→ 24’s

F. Fleece:

1. 250→ 20,30’s (Ratio 20:80) 2. 300→ 10, 26’s (Ratio 30:70 3.

#Calculate Cost of Making (CM) of Garments:

Before calculating cost of making (CM) for any garment items, a garment merchandiser should confirm the following matters:

1. Factory total expenditure per month (running), it includes factory rent, electricity bill, water bill, commercial cost, transportation, worker & staff wages etc.

2. Total number of machines in the factory. 3. Total number of machines required to complete an item. 4. Targeted production per hour from the existing layout (excluding alter and reject). 5. Total working day per month. 6. Total working hours per day.

Now by applying following formula, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate the actual making.

Cost of making (CM) per pcs,

Suppose, H.N apparels has received an order of basic T-Shirt item.

Where, H.N apparels total expenditure per month-30,00,000 taka Total number of machines in the factory-100 Total number of machines required to complete an item-25 Targeted production per hour from the existing layout-180 Total working day per month-26 Total working hours per day-08

Now calculate the cost of making(CM) of the mentioned item. Solution: Cost of making (CM) per pcs,

= 20.03 taka per pcs = (20.03 × 12) taka per dozen = 240.38 taka per dozen = 240.38/78 (in dollar) {1dollar-78taka (running)} = $3.08 per dozen

So, the cost of making (CM) per dozen basic T-Shirt is $3.08

Garment CM cost estimation using SAM (Standard Allowed Minute) or SMV( Standard Minute Value):

CM cost = (SAM of the garment * Minute cost of the labor)/Line efficiency(%)

#Production Capacity Calculation Method of a Garment Factory: For calculating production capacity of a garment factory, an industrial engineer should confirm the below information: Machine (hr) capacity per day, Individual product’s standard allowed minute (SAM), Line efficiency of garment factory efficiency. Now, by using the following formula, an industrial engineer can easily calculate production capacity of a garment factory. Production capacity (Pcs),

Example: Suppose, Noman Fashion Ltd. has 10 sewing lines, each sewing line has 20 machines. They have to produce basic knitted polo shirt items at 8hrs working day, (where machine-hr capacity is 1600hrs and line efficiency is 60%). So, find out the production capacity of that factory. Solution: Here, Machine (hr) capacity per day= 1600hrs, Line efficiency of garment factory= 60%, Standard allowed minute (SAM) for knitted polo shirt= 20 So, Production capacity (Pcs),

Carton Ply:

5ply= 3 media+ 2 line

7ply= 4 media +3line

TYPES OF KNIT:

COMMON GSM :

S/J=130-180GSM

RIB (1*1,2*2) =180-220GSM

DROP NEEDLE (3*2,4*2) =180-220GSM

PK = (180-240 GSM)

INTERLOCK = 200-220GSM

FLEECE=250-350GSM

TERRY=180-200GSM\

Price:

Feeder stripe price : $7.50/kg( average idea)

Auto stripe:$8.00/kg( average idea)

Some Melange:

Mid grey Melange

Dark grey Melange

Light Grey melnage

Anthracite

Lt beige

Neck rib consumption for t- shirt=0.06-0.08kg/dz ( for 220gsm)

Note : if buy ready garments fabric from supplier then wastage is=8-10%

Or make it own factory then wastage is=15-20%

CM RANGE ( $) ( average idea )

Basic t- shirt =3.00-3.50/dz

Tank top=2.00-2.50/dz

Polo shirt=3.50-4.50/dz

Hoddy t-shirt=5.50-6.00

Fleece jacket( basic) =6.50-7.50/dz

Fleece jacket( critical)=8.50-10.00/dz

Leggings =3.00-4.00/dz

Leggings Consumption :

Inseam + Front rise+( waist ×2)+ allowance × 1/2thigh + allowance

×2×2×gsm×12pc/10000000+15-17% wastage

Here

allowance =5-6cm

2=no of part

2= front and back part

Dia Measurement:

1/2chest width+ sewing all/2.54× No.body +Allowance

=61+2/2.54×3+2=76.77

Let.

1/2chest width= 61cm

sewing all=2cm

No.body= 3

Allowance=2

Neck RIB consumption:

Width =Neck width×2+allowance( 2 cm)= round

Neck width ×2+allowance (5cm)=v- shape

Height=Rib height×2+allowance

Let ,

Neck width =19cm

Neck /rib height =2cm

Width=19×2+2=40cm ( round)

Height=2×2+2=6cm

Consumption =length ×width×12×gsm/10000000+wastagae %

=40×6×12×230/10000000+18%

=.07

Allowance: Basic T-SHIRT

BOTTOM HEM=2.5 -3CM

SHOULDER JOIN=1.5CM

SLEEVE HEM=2.5 -3CM

SLEVE JOIN =1.5 CM

TOTAL=9CM

IN HAND=1CM

GRAND TOTAL=10CM

Chest Allowance=3 cm

Wastage %( depends on factory)

Sewing wastage =3%

Cutting and Finishing wastage=2%

Print wastage=2-3%

Emb wastage=2-3%

Garments normal wash=2-3%

Garments enzyme wash=3-5%

Garments stone wash=5-10%

Garments pigments dyeing & wash=10-20%

SLEEVE CONSUMPTION:

Length+All ×Width+All × Gsm×4×12

10000000

Carton Costing Calculation Method in Garments Industry:

Carton costing (Per pc carton box),

= Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter) × ply board rate (per sq.

meter)………… (1)

Now, one example is enough to remove your all the confusions from the above

discussion.

Example:

Suppose, a 5 ply carton having length 65cm, width 45cm and height 12cm. Now

calculate Carton box costing for 400pcs carton box. (where, 5 ply board rate is $0.65 per

square meter).

Solution:

Here,

Carton length – 65cm,

Width of carton- 45cm,

Carton height – 12cm,

5 ply board rate per square meter- $0.65

Total carton-400pcs.

So,

Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter),

= 1.41 square meter per pc carton.

Now, from (1), we get-

Carton costing (Per pc carton box),

= Ply board consumption (Per pc carton in square meter) × ply board rate (per sq.

meter)

= 1.41 × 0.65

=$0.92 per pc carton box.

So,

For 1pc carton, carton box costing stands at =$0.92.

And,

For 400pcs carton, carton box costing will be (0.92 × 400) = $368.