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Production Processes and Quality Assurance
What and Why
Production:– The construction process by which pattern pieces, materials,
and trims are merged into a finished apparel product.
Cost of production– Affected by product design and pattern– Affected by the process
Designers and pattern makers need production knowledge
Manufacturing Environments
Mass productionShort-cycle production Mass customizationWhich one depends on– Product type– Replenishment strategy
Mass production
Very large quantitiesEconomies of scaleStaple productsLow fashion riskBased on in-store replenishmentSeasonal and staple good demand is easier to forecast.
Allows for longer lead timesCan source off-shore and save on laborMexico and CB
Short-cycle Production
Producst produced closer to time of market demandHigh fashion goodsShort selling seasons (6-8 weeks)No intention of in-store replenishmentAsia– Fabric availability– Skill levels
Mass Customization
Short cycle manufacturing to an individual consumerAll the newest technologies– Body scanning– Pattern alteration software– Virtual try-on– Ink jet fabric printing
Involves the customization of fit, design and personalizationProduct already designed– Customer “customizes the product”
Fit customization– Difference between the standard and the customers
needed adjustments– Body scanning
Design customization– Fabric– Sleeve– Color
Personalization– More than just initial
Advantages– Reducing inventories– Minimizing returns– Reducing distribution costs– Customer relations– Brand loyalty– Consumer research
Production Sewing Systems
Single-handed– Samples and prototypes– Couture
Progressive Bundle– Common– Bundles rolled from one machine to another– Piece rate pay– High level of WIP– Bottle necks with varying speeds
Unit production system (UPS)– Garment parts fed on over head conveyors
• One garment at a time– Cross training– Reduced operator handling time– Equipment investment
Flexible Manufacturing Systems (FM)– Modular manufacturing– Self directed work teams– Entire garments– Paid on quantity and quality
Factors– Downtime very critical– Investment in training– Support from management– Cultural change– Employees need to think and perform differently– Increase in quality– Reduction of WIP
Agile manufacturing– Uses all the newest technologies– Mass customization– Flexibility in process
Combination of systems
Developments
Faster industrial machinesSpecialized machinesStandup sewingEquipment maintenance is criticalNoise and air pollutionComputerized sewing machinesrobotics
CAD/CAM
Computer aided manufacturing– Increase speed and accuracy of
• Pattern making• Market making• Grading• Cutting sewing
Improved product qualityReduced production timeDiversified product line
CIM
Computerized Integrated Manufacturing– Everything is linked– Smooth flow of information– Linkages to CAD/CAM
• Costing efficiencies• Spec sheet development• Numerically controlled stitching machines•
Production Process
Determine the process that is most efficient and cost effectiveConstruction specifications– Sewing sequence– Fusing interfacing– Applying embellishment– Pressing– Hang tags– Folding– Packaging
Considerations– Equipment capabilities– Labor costs– Subcontracting– What can be done prior to sewing process?
Problems– Procurement of materials
• Fabric, zippers• Subcontractors• International sourcing issues
Finishing
Pressing and packagingAdding labels and bar codes– Floor ready merchandise
RFIC– Radio frequency ID chip
Fabric– Laundering– Stonewash– Pre shrink– Garment dyed
Quality Assurance
Meets the standardsASTM and AATCCAdhere to spec sheetsFabric inspection– On-grain– Dye lots
Sewing and finishing– Stitches– Seams– Edges– Button holes– Hems– Plaid matching
Finishing– Thread trimming– Closure placement– Shoulder pads– Linings– Pressing
What if they don’t meet standards– Refuse shipment
• May not be able to replace• Stock outs
– Seconds in outlet stores
Logistics Agents
Export agent– Assists with exporting product out of contracted
country
Freight forwarding company– Move goods from country of production into the US
Customer broker– Help with customs