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Legitimization Process Art & Charisma

Retail Luxury Strategy, Assembling Charisma Through Art & Magic

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How did Dior legitimise its choice of artistic director? Introduction of the concepts of charisma, aura and the importance of authorities.

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  • 1. Legitimization Process Art & Charisma
  • 2. 'I Love Hitler'
  • 3. Marketing of adoration that relies on the charisma of key players can be dangerous since they are likely to leave the company in a more or less chaotic way John Gallianos recent, rapid fall from grace precisely illustrates the fragility and socially constructed nature of charismatic legitimacy Source: Dion, 2011
  • 4. The Choice of a New Artistic Director Raf Simons Biography - Belgian designer born in Neerplet in 1968. - He studied in industrial design then turned to fashion, music and the arts in general. - He launched a line of mens clothing in 1995. - He taught at the department of fashion of the applied arts industry school of Vienna and received the first prize for Swiss textile in November 2003. - He launched the Raf by Raf Simons label in 2005. - Artistic Director for Jil Sander - Collaboration with Fred Perry - On April 2012, creative director of Dior (Source: Edito Simons, 2011).
  • 5. Choice Legitimization The key to maintaining luxury brand legitimacy is managing the charismatic aura of the creative director (Dion and al, 2011) According to Weber (1915/1996), charisma is an exceptional quality that a man has (regardless of whether that quality is real, presumed or faked), which gives that person an authority to which others submit. That is, charismatics have a kind of aura. Charismatic authority appears as a domination over men to which they submit because they believe in the quality associated with that person in particular (Weber 1915/1996, p. 370).
  • 6. Choice Legitimization Similarity to Christian Dior Points of similarity: Diormag: Like Christian Dior, he was not destined to become a couturier Both Christan Dior and Raf Simons are passionate of art Both autodidacts Share a passion for gardens and flowers Raf Simons: I have tried several times to read CDs autobiography, but I always interrupt my reading because we have so many similarities, I find it difficult to read Source: Diormag
  • 7. Dior never talked about John Galliano again, instead emphasized on the role of Christian Dior The brand can first turn to the mythification of the founder to make the charisma continue and the aura not disappear Galliano downgraded to a footnote Source: The Guardian, 2nd July 2012
  • 8. Choice Legitimization Taste for Art Frequent visitor of Londons Frieze Art Fair, Raf Simons is a contemporary art collector With couture, he gives a new dimension to his passion: Art Takes inspiration for his collections from Art (e.g. Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, etc.) Several collaborations with artists: -Photography: Willy Vanderperre -Painter: Sterling Ruby -Make-up: Olivier Rizzo Source: Diormag
  • 9. Choice Legitimization The Singularity of a Genius Aesthetic gift of the creator M. Toledano I do not know many creative teams able to do such great work. This is couture! Raf Simons expresses his desire to shake up things at Dior "Cette collection se dfinit par la volont de dtourner Dior, de le bousculer", explains Raf Simons. I want to write a new narrative
  • 10. Choice Legitimization Deserving Successor to the New Look New Look: Feb 1947: The editor-in-chief of Harper s Bazaar, Carmel Snow exclaimed, its quite a revolution, dear Christian! Your dresses have such a new look! Over six decades after its creation, the New Look revolution and its spirit continue to inspire Dior Raf Simons va inspirer et propulser dans le 21me sicle le style que Monsieur Dior a lanc depuis l'ouverture de sa maison et qui a chang, ds sa premire collection, les codes de l'lgance mondiale On retrouve la silhouette emblmatique de Dior reprise et rinvente par Raf Simons depuis son arrive Source: Diormag
  • 11. Choice Legitimization Legitimized by Authorities Raf Simons is sanctioned by the authorities in the art world (Becker 1982) Journalists: Unanimously recognized as one of the most talented designers of the Fashion world, by the world press (Diormag, 2012) Anna Wintour said to her assistant Grace Coddington, Amazing, dont you think? Opinion leaders: Celebrities love the designer's work Other designers: "Before the show, I found it difficult to imagine what Raf would do at Dior" admitted Versace, "but from the very first look today it made total sense." Albert Elbaz: Absolutely poetic. It was perfection. Today was a beautiful marriage between a designer and a house." Source: The Guardian, 2nd July 2012
  • 12. Choice Legitimization Legitimized by Authorities All have acquired the cultural capital that allows them to consecrate the work of the Artistic Director (Bourdieu 1977; Becker 1982) Source: Dion, 2006
  • 13. Raf Simons Charismatic Leader Dior legitimizes Raf Simons by: Using the Art World Assimilating him to the founder, Christian Dior Emphasizing his reputation in the Fashion World and amongst the press Highlighting his technical skills and uniqueness