How did Dior legitimise its choice of artistic director? Introduction of the concepts of charisma, aura and the importance of authorities.
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1. Legitimization Process Art & Charisma
2. 'I Love Hitler'
3. Marketing of adoration that relies on the charisma of key
players can be dangerous since they are likely to leave the company
in a more or less chaotic way John Gallianos recent, rapid fall
from grace precisely illustrates the fragility and socially
constructed nature of charismatic legitimacy Source: Dion,
2011
4. The Choice of a New Artistic Director Raf Simons Biography -
Belgian designer born in Neerplet in 1968. - He studied in
industrial design then turned to fashion, music and the arts in
general. - He launched a line of mens clothing in 1995. - He taught
at the department of fashion of the applied arts industry school of
Vienna and received the first prize for Swiss textile in November
2003. - He launched the Raf by Raf Simons label in 2005. - Artistic
Director for Jil Sander - Collaboration with Fred Perry - On April
2012, creative director of Dior (Source: Edito Simons, 2011).
5. Choice Legitimization The key to maintaining luxury brand
legitimacy is managing the charismatic aura of the creative
director (Dion and al, 2011) According to Weber (1915/1996),
charisma is an exceptional quality that a man has (regardless of
whether that quality is real, presumed or faked), which gives that
person an authority to which others submit. That is, charismatics
have a kind of aura. Charismatic authority appears as a domination
over men to which they submit because they believe in the quality
associated with that person in particular (Weber 1915/1996, p.
370).
6. Choice Legitimization Similarity to Christian Dior Points of
similarity: Diormag: Like Christian Dior, he was not destined to
become a couturier Both Christan Dior and Raf Simons are passionate
of art Both autodidacts Share a passion for gardens and flowers Raf
Simons: I have tried several times to read CDs autobiography, but I
always interrupt my reading because we have so many similarities, I
find it difficult to read Source: Diormag
7. Dior never talked about John Galliano again, instead
emphasized on the role of Christian Dior The brand can first turn
to the mythification of the founder to make the charisma continue
and the aura not disappear Galliano downgraded to a footnote
Source: The Guardian, 2nd July 2012
8. Choice Legitimization Taste for Art Frequent visitor of
Londons Frieze Art Fair, Raf Simons is a contemporary art collector
With couture, he gives a new dimension to his passion: Art Takes
inspiration for his collections from Art (e.g. Pablo Picasso, Andy
Warhol, etc.) Several collaborations with artists: -Photography:
Willy Vanderperre -Painter: Sterling Ruby -Make-up: Olivier Rizzo
Source: Diormag
9. Choice Legitimization The Singularity of a Genius Aesthetic
gift of the creator M. Toledano I do not know many creative teams
able to do such great work. This is couture! Raf Simons expresses
his desire to shake up things at Dior "Cette collection se dfinit
par la volont de dtourner Dior, de le bousculer", explains Raf
Simons. I want to write a new narrative
10. Choice Legitimization Deserving Successor to the New Look
New Look: Feb 1947: The editor-in-chief of Harper s Bazaar, Carmel
Snow exclaimed, its quite a revolution, dear Christian! Your
dresses have such a new look! Over six decades after its creation,
the New Look revolution and its spirit continue to inspire Dior Raf
Simons va inspirer et propulser dans le 21me sicle le style que
Monsieur Dior a lanc depuis l'ouverture de sa maison et qui a
chang, ds sa premire collection, les codes de l'lgance mondiale On
retrouve la silhouette emblmatique de Dior reprise et rinvente par
Raf Simons depuis son arrive Source: Diormag
11. Choice Legitimization Legitimized by Authorities Raf Simons
is sanctioned by the authorities in the art world (Becker 1982)
Journalists: Unanimously recognized as one of the most talented
designers of the Fashion world, by the world press (Diormag, 2012)
Anna Wintour said to her assistant Grace Coddington, Amazing, dont
you think? Opinion leaders: Celebrities love the designer's work
Other designers: "Before the show, I found it difficult to imagine
what Raf would do at Dior" admitted Versace, "but from the very
first look today it made total sense." Albert Elbaz: Absolutely
poetic. It was perfection. Today was a beautiful marriage between a
designer and a house." Source: The Guardian, 2nd July 2012
12. Choice Legitimization Legitimized by Authorities All have
acquired the cultural capital that allows them to consecrate the
work of the Artistic Director (Bourdieu 1977; Becker 1982) Source:
Dion, 2006
13. Raf Simons Charismatic Leader Dior legitimizes Raf Simons
by: Using the Art World Assimilating him to the founder, Christian
Dior Emphasizing his reputation in the Fashion World and amongst
the press Highlighting his technical skills and uniqueness