OCT - DEC 2014 ISSUE

October- December 2014 33 76

No target is highif adequate supportis given ...!


Yes, I am interested

Contact Information :

Company Name:

Contact Person:

Address

Phone No.:

Mobile No.:

Email id:

Website:

Business Information :

Manufacturer

Trading Company

Dealer/Agent/Distributor

Retailer

Merchant Exporter/Importer

Service Provider

Consultant

Association/Council

Government Office

Education Institute

Research Center

Testing Center

TYPE OF ORGANIZATION :

VALUE CHAIN SEGMENT :

Fiber

Yam

Fabric

Processing

Garment

Machinery

Technical Textiles

Trimming

Fashion Accessories

Fashion Designer

Retail

Home Textile/Made Ups

Tel / Fax : +91-22-21026386 ; Cell: +91-9769442239;

Email : [email protected]

Webportal : www.textilevaluechain.com

Innovative Media and Information CompanyAddress: 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar

Ghatkopar (East) Mumbai - 400075Maharashtra, INDIA

Kindly Send Your Payment & Company Details to

Date :

Signature

Contact Person Name :

Previous Issues of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Magazine

Year Issues Achual Subscription

1Year 12 issue 1200 800

2 Year 24issue 2400 1500

3 Year 3 yaar 3600 2100

Narains Synthetics Pvt Ltd

FABRICS :-Product Range :

Poly Viscose , Poly Wool ,stretch(Mono/bistretch),

Linen blends, Tencel Blends, Shirting range & Teflon finished

/ Tweed/ Melton/Tropical/Serge.

Production Capacity : 10 million meters per year.

Width Options :

From 147 cms upto 160 cms finished width.

Treatment Offered :

Anti bacterial, U/V Protection, Functional fabrics, Wrinkle free.

Finished Offered :

Normal Soft Finish, Teflon finish (NT,HT, LAD, Advanced Teflon),

Flannel Finish, Shiner Finish.

Packing Options : Roll Form/ Double fold

( In Roll from : 50 -100 meters)

Minimum Order Accepted : 10,000 meters

Delivery Time :

Minimum 6 weeks to maximum 10 weeks

Sample Lead Time :

Desk Loom/ Lab Dips - 1 week, Sample Yardage -3 weeks

CONTACT US OFFICE ADDRESSNSPL: 125 / 126, Sanjay Building No 5 - A, Mittal Estate, Saki Naka, Andheri (East), Mumbai - 400 059.Tel : + 91 - 22 - 2850 4454, + 91 - 22 - 2859 3330 | Fax : + 91 - 22 - 2859 3027Email: [email protected]

NSPL:

ADVT.

Textiles to drive National Economy

The textile industry remained grounded for a long time due to various reasons. The report of the Expert Committee appointed by the Ministry of Textiles under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shankar, Member-Secretary, National Manufacturing Competitive Council visualizes a dominant role for the textile and apparel industry in the Indian economy. It is a momentous development which has electrified the textile and apparel industry, which is non awaiting the new Textiles Policy to be announced by the Ministry of Textiles.

It is really gratifying that the Expert Committee has realised the tremendous potential of the textile and apparel industry. Technological innovation may replace conventional fabrics by smart fabrics, but clothing will continue to be the primary need of the human beings for all times to come.

What a fantastic impact the new policy will make on the Indian economy! Shri Manikam Ramaswami an astute, discerning and visionary millowner has recently observed that export of textiles and clothing worth US $ 1 billion will create additional one lakh jobs, and the net additional Foreign exchange earned (after adjusting for imports) will be nearly US $ 1 billion. The vision report estimates exports of textiles and clothing at US $ 300 billion and domestic sales at US $ 350 billion. Thus, the report envisages that the industry whose present size is US $ 120 billion will transform itself into a gigantic industry of the size of US $ 650 billion by 2024-25.

The preliminary estimate of total exports in 2013-14 has been US $ 319 billion. The additional foreign exchange earnings of US $ 260 billion [Export of US $ 300 billion less present exports of US $ 40 billion] by 2024-25 would be a substantial addition to Foreign exchange kitty. This will dispel anxiety of keeping Current Account deficit at a sustainable level. If the goals are achieved there will be addition of 5.30 crore new employees to the present labour strength of 52 crore.

The economic growth which has slowed down due to domestic structural and external factors will revive with renewed vigour and enhanced confidence. More than five crore persons with enhanced purchasing power would have a tonic effect on all industries across the board. The textile and apparel industry will once again be at the pinnacle of Indian economy. Mr. Ajay Shankar deserves all kudos for articulating a vision that will impact every household in the country.

The road ahead is long and full of hurdles. It is not going to be a smooth journey. A systematic analysis of what the textile and apparel industry wants must be the immediate exercise.

OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2014 ISSUE In this Issue...EDITORIAL TEAM

Graphic Designer

Mr. Anant A. Jogale

Advertising & Sales

Md. Tanweer

Editorial Advisor

Shri V.Y. Tamhane

INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda

City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)

Mr. Manohar Samuel Joint President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries

Mr. Aditya Biyani Marketing Director, Damodar Group

Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates

Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing),Indian Rayon

Mr. Ajay Sharma

Ms. Jigna Shah

GM- RSWM ( LNJ Bhilwara Group)

Editor & Publisher

EDUCATION / RESEARCHMr. B.V. Doctor

HOD knitting, SASMIRA ,

Dr. Ela Dedhia

Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College

Dr. Mangesh D. Teli

Professor, Dean ICT

Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay

Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT

Dr. Rajan Nachane

Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION Mr. Avinash Mayekar

MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Shivram Krishnan

Senior Textile Advisor

Mr. G. Benerjee

Management & Industrial Consultant

Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce

Mr. Jaykrishna PathakPresident,Bombay Yarn Merchant Association & Exchange Ltd.

Mr. Shiv Kanodia

Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber

Mr. N.D. MhatreDy. Director, ITAMMA

9- Government News

10- Corporate News

COVER STORY : INDIA'S VISION FOR TEXTILE INDUSTRY

11- The undiscovered of the industry by Shri V.Y. Tamhane

12- Vision, Strategy & Action Plan for industry by Mr. Avinash Mayekar

14- Roadmap for Indian Textile industry by Prof. M.D. Teli

20- National Employment Policy by Shri V.Y. Tamhane

TECHNICAL ARTICLES

26- Recycling of plastic bottles into yarn & fabric

35- Knitted Fabric Softness- Ways to Improve

38- Natural Dyes – Overviews

TRADESHOW REPORT

37- Outlook- EDANA

44- Shilp Kathaon 2014

45- BCH Technical Symposium

48- Yarnex/ Texindia 2014

49- Global Geosynthetic Summit by CII

52- ITMACH – Pre Show

52- Cotton USA Seminar

71- Upcoming Tradeshow Details

AGM MEET SPEECH

56- TEXPROCIL

57- WOOL INDUSTRY EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL

58- SRTEPC

61- FAITMA

62- AEPC

64- CITI

REPORTS

66- FABRIC QUALITY

68- YNFX MONTHLY PRICE REPORT

74- Fashion Forecast

5

AD

VT.

KUMAR SILK MILLS384/A, Dabholkar Wadi, Ground Floor

Shop No.-2, Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai - 400002Tel : 022 - 40041032

Mob.: 9324169231, 7498207498 Email: [email protected]

36" / 58" SHIRTINGS & 44" KHADI FABRICS

R

1965 ls [kknh flYd ds fuekZ.k esa flQZ uke gh dkQh gSA

6

DU

BA

I

-

20

14

THE WOR

LD IS

COM

ING T

O

ww

w.in

tern

atio

nalte

xtile

fair.

com

info

@in

tern

atio

nalte

xtile

fair.

com

+97

1 56

763

6 51

7+

971

4 35

5 93

62N

ihal

ani E

vent

s M

anag

emen

t

ARE Y

OU?3

rd &

4th

NO

V 2

014

DU

BA

I W

OR

LD

TR

AD

E C

EN

TR

E

Reg

iste

r N

ow

!

UAE’s

FIRS

T and

LEAD

ING

Text

ile, F

ashi

on a

nd Fa

bric

Exhi

bitio

n

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014www.textilevaluechain.com

8


9

GOVT NEWSHANDLOOM JOIN HANDS WITH FLIPKART INDIA PVT. LTD.

Ministry of Tex les today an-nounced that Ministry through DC (Handlooms) has signed a Memoran-dum of Understanding (MoU) with Flipkart India Pvt. Ltd. to provide on-line marke ng pla orm to handloom weavers to boost the handloom sector, empower the weavers and boost man-ufacturing in the country.

Through this exclusive agreement, Flipkart will provide weavers in India online marke ng pla orm, infrastruc-tural support in data analy cs and customer acquisi on to help them get remunera ve prices for their products and scale up their business.

Ministry of Tex les, Government of India, through the offi ce of the Devel-opment Commissioner for Handlooms, is con nuously striving to develop a strong, compe ve and vibrant hand-loom sector to provide sustainable em-ployment to handloom weavers. The Ministry had adopted focused, fl exible and holis c approach to promote and facilitate the con nuous overall growth and development of the handloom industry through formula ng, imple-men ng, monitoring and reviewing of handloom policies, programmes and schemes; to support the handloom sector at large in upgrading skill knowl-edge, market infrastructure, living con-di on etc.

For marke ng support, the Min-istry of Tex les has taken many ini a- ves from me to me such as organi-

za ons of domes c marke ng events, par cipa on in interna onal fairs and

buyer-seller meets etc. However, in the present scenario of online marke ng and net savvy consumers, it has been felt need to provide online market-ing pla orm to handloom weavers so that exquisite handloom products of remote village is made available to dis-cerning buyers.

This kind of a coordinated eff ort has been planned and executed for the fi rst me with Flipkart for handloom weavers which will bridge the missing linkages of market intelligence, market access and logis cs and help the Indian weavers in ge ng remunera ve prices for their products.” Flipkart will provide online marketplace for sale of the prod-ucts of the weavers / master cra s-men/ na onal awardees/ state level awardees and the others as advised by Development Commissioner for Hand-looms. Towards this end, they will go to the doorsteps of the above said since they do not have the brand, fi nancial wherewithal to have a store leave aside in a town but not even in their village, no wherewithal to travel to market their products. Flipkart or their busi-ness partners will also have a collec on centers to collect their products.

The weavers will sell their products under their brand name and evolve as an entrepreneur selling his products directly to buyers across the country without stepping out of their work-place.

Flipkart, with its access to the larg-est customer base in the country, aims to help weavers make op mal use of

the available data to guide entrepre-neurs and ar sans on areas such as deciding on the right selling price, pay-ment automa on, proper packaging, transporta on, brand building etc.

The DATA analy cs and market in-telligence provided by Flipkart will help the weavers focus only on producing be er saleable product ranges. This in turn will help them plan their produc- on and inventory and expand their

business, thus revolu onizing manu-facturing in rural India and encourage entrepreneurship.

This partnership will connect the ar sans directly to the buyer and the hand holding by Flipkart in guiding, packaging, collec ng and delivering to the buyer will mo vate the ar sans in rural India. North East has skilled weav-ers with rich tradi onal mo fs and designs, but due to the lack of market linkages they are not able to exploit the market poten al. Similarly, Paithani and Himroo weaves from Maharashtra have tremendous value but are a dying art. Flipkart`s ABHIYAAN Flipkart – Kaar-igar ke dwar to connect the weavers to the buyers across the country will also help arrest this dying art and change the face of rural India. This ini a ve will help rural weavers earn suitable re-munera on for their products without having to step out of their homes. Thus the children of these weavers will be mo vated to learn and con nue the art and stay back in the rural areas instead of migra ng to the urban areas for jobs, thereby keeping alive the rich tradi on of Indian art.

The Minister of State (Independent Charge) for Tex les Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar honoured 54 women from 27 Indian states who have achieved signifi cant success in produc on, pro-duc vity and adop on of best prac- ces in the fi eld of Sericulture across

the country in a Na onal Workshop on “Empowering Women Through Sericul-ture”. During the inaugural session, fi ve achievers shared their experience.

Inaugura ng the Workshop, Shri Gangwar hear ly noted that sericul-ture has been providing gainful liveli-hood opportuni es to rural women. Addressing the women achievers, the Minister added that “through sericul-ture, you have been able to provide good educa on to your children and spend the money earned out of it fruit-fully for the be erment of your fami-

lies. This is indeed encouraging. You are role models for other farmers. I would appeal to you to promote sericulture for enhanced silk produc on in the country.”

Shri Gangwar said Wthat “it is the right me for us to focus on high qual-ity silk and become truly world class.” He said that the Ministry would like to take the development process through par cipa ve approaches leading to in-clusive growth. He also expressed hap-piness about the innova ve prac ces adopted by the women in sericulture and hoped that this workshop will help in augmen ng produc on of quality silk in the country substan ally.

Making a presenta on on the mat-ter, Dr. Sanjay Kumar Panda, Secre-tary, Ministry of Tex les, stressed that

that sericulture is an eff ec ve tool for poverty eradica on in rural areas and empowerment of women. He further stated that the challenges ahead lies in producing quality bivol ne silk for mee ng the need of the silk weaving industry. He further highlighted that quality silk worm food plants, robust silk worm races, produc on of quality silk worm seed and eff ec ve marke ng should be the focus areas.

Dr. Panda stated that the key to success is good team work with syner-gy with the schemes of other depart-ments like Mahatma Gandhi Na onal Rural Employment Guarantee Scheme (MGNREGS), Rashtriya Krishi Vikas Yo-jana (RKVY) and Na onal Aforesta on Programme (NAP), appropriate tech-nology and eff ec ve management.

T M H 54 W A S


10

Compact yarn is one of the growing high-value yarn segments that spinners are increasingly vying for, so as to suc-ceed in a compe ve yarn market. Re-alising the huge poten al for compact yarn, A.T.E. has ed-up with Ningbo Dechang Precision Tex le Machinery Co. Ltd., China, to bring a range of high quality retrofi t compact spinning sys-tems to Indian spinners.

Dechang, one of the leading com-pact conversion manufacturers, is known for its high quality equipment which is based on suc on and perfo-rated nylon apron concept. Dechang has a patent for its complete compact modifi ca on kit. Dechang can supply and install its en re compact systems on almost all makes of ring frames. They have a reference base of 2 million spindles in China and more than half a million in other markets.

Expressing his enthusiasm for this e-up, Mr Laxmikant Rathi, Vice Presi-

dent – Spinning Accessories & Exports, A.T.E. Enterprises, said, “We were look-ing for a reliable and technologically advanced compact retrofi t system that can produce high quality compact yarn, which we have found in the Dechang compact system. This partnership will bring the best technology to the Indian compact yarn market”.

Mr Xu Shiping, Vice General Man-ager, Ningbo Dechang, expressed that, “Having A.T.E. as a partner gives us an opportunity to reach the en re tex le sector, as A.T.E. is a complete solu on provider for all the tex le machinery needs of the Indian tex leindustry, and hence known to allcustomers. This e-up will help us topromote our high

quality, cost eff ec vesolu ons in com-pact systems to theIndian market.”

As per the arrangements, A.T.E. will maintain a stock of cri cal and import-ant components like la ce aprons, suc- on tubes and gear box assemblies for

the compact yarn system. The Indian spinners can thus look forward to fast and excellent sales and service sup-port from A.T.E. for the Dechang com-pactspinning system.

CORPORATE NEWS A.T.E. I

From L to R: Laxmikant Rathi ( A.T.E.), Xu Shiping, Su Xiaoguang (Dechang), Anuj Bhagwa (A.T.E.), Zheng Jianping, Xu Jun (De-chang)and P K Govil (TeraSpin)

Reading fabric appearance: the yarn tells the story

Tes ng with USTER® TESTER 5 and USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 shows how a fab-ric will look and feel…

Total customer sa sfac on is every spinner’s goal and reputa ons depend on it. Every cri cal yarn parameter must to be tested to ensure that the resultant fabric meets expecta ons, whatever level of the market is being supplied. All the evidence confi rms it, from the world’s most successful yarn producers, and from detailed prac cal analysis.

There are two main types of yarn user: those commi ed to weaving or kni ng high-quality fabrics, and those which serve ‘commodity’ applica ons. Both groups have their own specif-ic requirements – and it’s essen al that spinners understand these needs and how to meet them. What is clear, though, is that yarn tes ng is funda-mental to customer sa sfac on, in ev-ery case.

Major customers, demanding re-quirements

The PALLAVAA Group is a success-ful spinning company in India, special-izing in Viscose, MicroModal, Modal, Polyester, Bamboo, Supima and its blends, and pure co on. They are sup-plying big brands like NEXT, Marks &

Spencer, H & M, Victoria’s Secret etc. PALLAVAA is not alone in its desire to work with major retailers.

In fact, long-standing customer re-la onships, based on high standards, call for a whole range of yarn quality parameters to be controlled: even-ness, imperfec ons (neps, thin and thick places), hairiness, remaining de-fects and foreign fi bers. Measurements from the USTER® TESTER 5 provide re-ports and analysis on evenness, imper-fec ons and hairiness, while remaining defects and foreign fi bers are covered by the USTER® CLASSIMAT 5. Quali-ty-conscious spinners have trusted in these two instruments for decades for reliable and accurate data. These lab-oratory tes ng instruments’ data can tell the yarn quality story – and even predict how the fi nal fabric will look.

tes ng at the Uster Technologies laboratory in Switzerland has shown that yarns with comparable CVm val-ues can produce fabrics with obvious diff erences in appearance. In the tests, Ne24 co on yarns from 10 diff erent suppliers had insignifi cant diff erences in their CVm values, which could lead wrongly to the conclusion that the fab-rics would look the same. Further test data from the USTER® TESTER 5 showed results for neps which were close in 8 of the 10 cases, in which the yarns had a nep value below the 25 USTER® STA-TISTICS Percen le (USPTM). But one of

the yarns had a much higher nep val-ue, even exceeding 50 % of the USTER® STATISTICS value.

“We know from experience that fabric kni ed from yarn with a nep level over 50 % will show li le pilling on the surface,” says Peters. The yarns were also tested for hairiness – and here the test results varied even more widely. Values ranged from below 25 % USPTM to above 95 %.

“Fabric made from yarns with such diff erent hairiness values will never ever look the same, and as these test results demonstrate, spinners tes ng only yarn evenness are making a poten- ally serious error. They would clear-

ly be wrong to place any confi dence in producing yarns to meet customer needs under these circumstances.”

Common prac ce or best prac ce?Some yarn users have developed a

policy of taking sample packages from a yarn lot and ‘tes ng’ them by run-ning the yarn through their weaving or kni ng machines. “The eff ort of kni ng or weaving a fabric can be re-duced to the minimum or eliminated if you have a yarn test report containing reliable informa on rela ng to fabric appearance,” says Peters. “The USTER®


11

COVER STORYTHE UNDISCOVERED , OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Shri V.Y.Tamhane

H D ATo say that, the Vision, Strategy and

Ac on Plan for Indian Tex le and Apparel Sector dra ed by the Expert Commi ee under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shan-kar, Member-Secretary Na onal Manu-

facturing Compe veness Council has brought cheer to the industry is a gross understatement. The Vision statement has radically transformed the mood of the en re industry and inspired confi dence in it. It has started feeling that it is on cloud nine, and it is now looking forward to climbing the commanding heights of the interna onal trade in tex les and clothing. The statement is music to ears and assurance of happy days ahead.

The export target of US$ 300 billion and projected do-mes c demand of US $ 350 by 2024-25 making a total of US $ 650 billion from the present level of US $ 120 billion is certainly highly ambi ous, very lo y and seemingly diffi cult. But one may recall that in the medieval period the industry trumped all compe tors in the interna onal market. Its ex-port performance in early nineteen fi ies was mind-blow-ing. All that is required is the posi ve approach.

To make the policy a ground success, Government is bound to pull out all the stops and open all windows and doors.

Exports largely depend upon, monsoon, China factor, par value of rupee, fi bre-neutral taxa on policy and im-port-walls raised by impor ng countries. An important issue will be the development of domes c raw material base for achieving the gigan c export target and mee ng the domes- c demand.

We have to accept the fact that in comfort, style and fashion, it is diffi cult to beat Indian tex les and clothing. To meet the upmarket demand par cularly in the developed countries the industry must aspire to become the epitome of luxury. At the same me, industry should not overlook the demand pa ern of the society at large, the world over. What is now required is the se ng up of large produc on capac-i es of man-made fi bres, yarns and processed cloth and garments. The leading corporates will not chase awards, but market leadership through talented strategies, with relent-less focus on the world requirement of tex les and clothing.

H : It is fortuitous that, interna onally things are changing

for the be er. The U.S. economy is normalising. Europe is restructuring and Japanese economy is becoming be er. If we put all that together, the world economy is looking up.

PThere are 24 lakh powerlooms in the powerloom sector

and 52,000 looms in the mill sector. However, the number of shu leless looms in not more than 1.10 to 1.20 lakh. The worse part of it is that a large chunk of shu leless looms is second-hand.

Shu leless looms are a pre-requisite to manufacture fabrics which are fl awless and faultless and which have good dimensional stability. A small popula on of 1.10 to 1.20 lakh

shu leless looms is too inadequate for mee ng the demand of garment sector for the manufacture of garments for ex-port purposes as well as domes c demand.

The powerloom sector is the weakest link and has no wherewithal for installa on of shu leless looms. Further, this sector fi nds it diffi cult to get term loans even under TUFS, because of their inability to furnish collateral security. The sector is in need of viability-gap funding. Hence, if Gov-ernment takes steps to set up pools of imported shu leless looms of diff erent mix of water-jet, air-jet, and rapier shut-tleless looms at diff erent powerloom centres in the country for giving such looms on lease to powerloom owners, with the lease rent being as low as possible, many powerloom owners will come forward. Thus, there will be adequate supply of grey cloth manufactured on shu leless looms. No duty, neither custom duty nor CVD nor SAD should be charged on such looms to keep its cost as low as possible so that the lease rent will not become a burden on the power-loom sector. A special scheme with liberal incen ves should also be devised for construc ng factory buildings for power-looms, which today func oning in sub-standard condi ons.

P SNow comes the issue of upgrada on of processing tech-

nology.A processing unit of economic capacity with imported

machinery costs Rs 100 crore. If good processing machines giving results comparable to interna onal standards are pur-chased from domes c sources and the balance machines, which are not available domes cally only are imported, then the investment may be about Rs 80-85 crore. Of the project cost of Rs 100 crore, machinery would cost Rs 40-50 crore and the balance Rs 50-60crore will be required for the purchase of land, buildings and to cover cost of installa on of machinery, equipment, u li es, and effl uent treatment plant, etc including the incidence of customs duty, excise duty, sales tax aggrega ng to about 20-22%.

At present, processing machinery is en tled to 5% in-terest reimbursement and 10% capital subsidy for specifi ed processing machinery. Investments in items like land, facto-ry buildings u li es, installa on charges etc and pre-oper-a ve expenses and margin money are not eligible for the benefi t of reimbursement under the scheme, unlike for han-dloom and apparel sectors, with a cap of 50% of total new eligible investment. The subsidy is also not available on the tax por on of the price of machinery etc. Hence, capital sub-sidy for a processing project of Rs 100 crore would be only Rs 4 crore. In addi on, interest reimbursement at 5% is only available for seven years. This is not an a rac ve proposal for investment.

A – 1) To set up exclusive Tex le Processing Parks at Power-

loom Clusters like Bhiwandi, Ichalkaranji, Surat, Malego-an, Burhanpur etc.

2) IR should be given on all excluded costs like, du es, and cost, building cost, u li es etc.

3) Government should set up co-genera on facili es to supply power and steam and provide for centralized ETP, as is done in China. While power should be supplied at cost, steam should be supplied free of charge.


12

COVER STORY

The proposed project will, on an average, process 70,000 metres of cloth per day i.e. 210 lakh metres in a year of 300 working days. Assuming that an average gar-ment requites 2.5 metres of cloth, 84 lakh garments could be s tched from 210 lakh metres of cloth. At US$ 5 per gar-ment (f.o.b) the foreign exchange earning would be US$ 40 million per annum. One processing unit can process cloth of 20 shu leless looms, producing 200 metres per day.

The above calcula on is at 100% effi ciency, with 100% produc on and 100% exports and no wastages have been assumed.While actual produc on would depend upon ef-fi ciency, intensity of use of machines, work stoppages, ma-chine stoppages, overhauling, maintenance,etc, exports will depend on export orders, and f.o.b prices.

There should be a sizeable number of clusters of im-ported shu leless looms at diff erent powerloom des na- ons and adequate number of Tex le Processing Parks at

such places.

G SOnce the number of shu leless loom for produc on of

grey fabrics is increased to the required extent and process-ing facili es of interna onal standard are made available,

garment manufacturers would get adequate supplies of fabrics of interna onal standard at most economic prices and they would be in a posi on to increase exports in a sig-nifi cant manner. Addi onally, this route will not increase import content of export produc on and the industry will contribute signifi cantly large amounts in foreign exchange for growth and development of na onal economy.

If the produc on base of processed fabrics is enlarged, the remaining problem of the garmen ng sector would be the availability of skilled workers, the withdrawal prohibi- on imposed on engagement of women workers between

10 pm and 6 am (next day), the restricted number of hours for doing over me work, etc

It is a ma er of gra tude that Government is giving due emphasis on skill development programmes. The Gar-ment industry with the support of Apparel Export Promo- on Council has taken a lead for training. It is reported that

about 1 lakh workers have already been trained. Skill devel-opment ac vity should be enlarged and supported by fi ring on all cylinders.

Let us look forward to a tex le industry, which will dom-inate the Indian economy by earning loads of foreign ex-change and providing jobs to teeming millions.

Avinash MayekarMD & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd

Recently “Navaratri fes val” has added colours to the lives of all Indians. We are fortunate to born in the country of colours and colours refl ect in our cul-ture and in to our clothings. Every State

in India has its specifi c cultural a re, matching style and colour combina ons. Our woman has got great affi nity to-wards colour and has sense& choice for her colour. To help her, tex le industry is present in our country since ancient mes and contribu ng a lot to the fashion industry.

The Indian Tex le Industry is playing an important role in country’s economy by genera ng large employment base since decades. It is also a prime source for foreign exchange earnings for years. Hence, it is of paramount importance to chalk out our Country’s vision, strategy & ac on plan to carve out be er future. Somehow, the eff orts in this regard have been of very low scale and have not come to the ex-pecta ons of the globe ll date. At interna onal scenario, China is s ll a big brother and India has all its merits to take a bigger pie of the cake from China. However, the eff orts are not in right direc ons far away from value addi ons and targets. We need to design our master plan in more appro-priate way.

The very fi rst step to the ladder of success would be to study our resources in terms of raw materials, work culture, skill sets& infrastructure. We can map our country into the module of each and every State thoroughly for type, quality & quan ty of fi bres produced & how the levels of produc- ons can further be improvedin the region, what challeng-

es are faced by the people while producing fi bres & how

these problems can be overcome. e.g. co on yield is s ll a big challenge across India and there is a huge scope for im-provement by using latest cul va ng techniques.

It is equally important to study prevailing industries in that par cular State& whether there is a balance in the supply chain management e.g. if only spinning industry is grown exponen ally in the par cular region but weaving & processing industry has not any presence in the region, then the producer will be directly selling the yarn in the neigh-boring state or foreign countries. But instead, if cluster is de-veloped in such a way that ginning, spinning, weaving, pro-cessing & garmen ng sector are based in one cluster, then value chain can be easily balanced. This will help in reducing transporta on, logis cs, administra on and overhead costs dras cally giving more profi t margins. Integrated Tex le Park Scheme envisages the vision to bring en re value chain at one place with all suppor ng infrastructure. Mini Tex le Park concept can defi nitely boost this scheme. The other im-portant aspect is presence of ginning &spinning industries near co on growing regions. This would facilitate reduc on inlogis c costs as well as contamina on& wastage thereby giving superior quality products. Similarly, other fi bres like silk, wool, jute etc. have their own importance and can be developed in the respec ve States for value addi on.

It is very important to use various tools such as SWOT analysis, PESTEL analysis, compe tor’s analysis, geograph-ic analysis & demographic analysis for each & every State. We have to study the market gaps, growth drivers, products having interna onal markets etc. whether our strategy is in line with the global trends or not. e. g. China is the biggest player in the global tex le industry but because of increas-ing labour cost in China, industry players are eyeing on other Asian countries for produc on & this can be a good oppor-

VISION, STRATEGY & ACTION PLAN FOR INDIAN TEXTILE & APPAREL INDUSTRY


13

C S

tunity for India. Study & Implementa on of similar business models of States like Maharashtra and Gujarat where Tex le Industry has shown tremendous growth will defi nitely add to success of Indian Tex le Industry.

Once we have all data pertaining to Tex le Industry of en re country based on various segments in tex le value chain, organized ordecentralized sectors, fi bre-wise indus-tries, scale of economy, technology level; we can arrive at the exis ng scenario of IndianTex le Industry. This will fa-cilitate us in understanding our vision statement. Our vision should not only be in numbers indica ng market share or export values, but it should be derived based on various factors likeresource availability, growth drivers, level of in-frastructure development, level of skill development & level of technology advancement and probable investment pos-sibili es.

Next step is to devise roadmap for our vision. This road-map can be formed by iden fying investment opportuni es in the region, based on segment analysis. Once we iden fy industries to be developed, it is very necessary to chalk out the ac on plan for development. This plan will be integra- on of all aspects like value chain, infrastructure develop-

ment, skill development, technology levels, policy reforms& crea on of marke ng pla orms. e.g. if a par cular State has to be developed for produc on of export oriented garment industry, it is necessary to develop skill sets and suppor ng infrastructure like design studios, crea vity related ac vi- es, roads, ports, labour training schools& marke ng plat-

forms to a ract global brands. Absence of any one of these aspects can lead to a failure. Hence, it is crucial to pursue holis c approach which will cover all parameters.

Extensive and effi cient road network, availability of good quality water, uninterrupted power supply& other u li es, well developed ports are important factors contribu ng to infrastructure development. Likewise, highlyskilled labours trained with interna onal skills and standards will help to achieve higher produc vi es & good opera onal manage-ment. It is necessary to check whether exis ng educa onal programs are capable to create such high skilled human re-source. Educa onal seminars & training programs can also helpto create good resources. In fact,there are interna onal consul ng fi rms who are specialists and have experience in training to tex le experts and workers. Such kind of train-ing programs can develop a good skilled workforce in our country.

Technology advancement plays crucial role for growth of the any industry e.g. if our vision is to double our exports in next 5 years, but we do not have state-of-the art tech-nology to produce interna onal standard goods, then we

can never achieve our vision. Some of the tex le sectors like Ginning, are s ll using very obsolete technologies.With the obsolete machineries, we cannot achieve desired standards of products as impuri es in co on can lead several prob-lems like less absorbency, harsh hand-feel & less brightness etc. We have to update ourselves with the latest state-of-the ar echnology. Government has launched TUFS scheme to support technology development which is an appreciable ini a ve. However, it needs effi cient implementa on and promo on across the value chain. More such Government schemes are needed to bring about technology advance-ment.

Government policies & ini a ves should be in tune with the vision e.g. if a par cular cluster has to be developed for Fabric processing industry, Government policies should cre-ate conducive environment for growth of the processing in-dustry, such as CETP plants and water availability. Benefi ts like tax exemp on, tax holidays, capital & interest subsidies should be given to promote tex le sector. This will help to create posi ve environment amongst investors. Once the cluster is developed, the next step is to create marke ng network for businesses like arrangement of events & exhi-bi ons which will promote the products. This can create a pla orm to bring about awareness & marke ng of products & help in business development. The last but not the least is con nuous monitoring of ac on plan. No ac on plan is com-plete if it is not monitored at various stages. So it is neces-sary to decide milestones & me frames. These milestones have to be implemented within me frames to achieve the vision. A con nuous dialogue with all stake holders is need-ed to boost the sector. Similarly fi nancial ins tu ons play very important role in sanc oning commercial values for the future projects. They need to be guided properly for ap-praisal systems and faster fi nancing procedures.

Today, Indian economy is in transi on phase. Our Prime Minister Mr. Narendra Modi is taking good ini a ves to at-tract foreign investments from Japan, China, USA and other developed countries. Many other foreign na ons are eyeing on Indian economy for investments. Our Vision for tex le & apparel sector should bring the right environment for inves-tors by crea ng good infrastructure, skill development, Gov-ernment policies & marke ng pla orms. We can defi nitely lead the globein future by devising right and appropriate strategies to create our Vision and Ac on Plan.

Tex le Consul ng fi rmshaving in depth knowledge of Indian and global tex le industrycan add value in the eff orts of the Government ini a ves todevise appropriate ac on plan, strategy and vision statement for Indian tex le indus-try…

PIN UP IS BACK: THE KNITWEAR OF THE

FUTURELeading fashion brand Bene on in-

vented it – a revolu onary line of sweat-ers that enhances a woman’s shape by ac-cen ng her curves in all the right places.

New for F/W 2014 is Muscle Fit, the version for guys.Accentuated curves and a super slim fi t even wearing a classic cashmere sweater? Yes, thanks to United Colors of Bene on’s revolu onary pat-ented technology plus more than forty

years’ know-how in weaving yarns and designing new genera on knitwear and its penchant for innova on.

Considering the human body in 3D led to the idea for this knitwear line, which by carefully placing invisible seams in strate-gic places would have op mal wearability and fi t that fl a ered the shape of men’s and women’s bodies to perfec on.

In recent years, Pin Up has already made women’s dreams of feeling both el-egant and feminine come true, and F/W 2014 also sees the launch of the Muscle

Fit line for men. Pin Up and Muscle Fit knits hug the body, nip in the waist and, especially for men, accent the shoulders and muscles. Science fi c on? Not in the least.

Dressing all women and making them feel as beau ful as Pin Ups, and from to-day, giving all men a trim silhoue e and an elegant carriage. This a challenge that Bene on always wins with its exper se in knitwear and use of the most modern technologies. A perfect marriage of beau-ty and comfort.


14

Prof. M.D.Teli, Sanket Valia & Pintu Pandit

IIndian Tex le Industry is the mother

industry of this country as over 35 million popula on is directly dependent on its

growth. Hence its growth not only cons tutes the GDP growth but also it impacts the life of a large popula on of this country. The growth of this sector thus does not con-fi ne to economic reasons, but it is a social responsibility is-sue too, as it provides employment to a large number of popula on next to agricultural sector. Among the various strengths of this Tex le sector, one of them is availability of diverse variety of fi bre raw materials. Co on, silk, wool, jute and manmade fi bres like polyester, nylon, acrylic and viscose rayon are widely available in India. India is the world’s second largest producer of tex les and garments a er China. India, is world’s second largest producer of cot-ton a er China and also the second largest co on consum-er a er China. India is the second largest producer of raw silk a er China and at the same me India is the top most consumer of silk based fancy materials.

Due to the liberaliza on the of trade and economic policies ini ated by the Government in the 1990s the last decade saw considerable growth much more than the that observed in previous decades. Over the last 10 years, India’s tex le and apparel exports have grown at the rate of 11%.However, a er the phasing out of export quotas in 2005 India’s export performance has been below expecta ons. Apparel is an ideal industry for examining the dynamics of buyer-driven value chains. The rela ve ease of se ng up clothing companies, coupled with the prevalence of devel-oped-country protec onism in this sector, has led to an un-paralleled diversity of garment exporters in the third world.

In the domes c market, which is over 1.2 bn popula- on, sustaining an annual growth rate of 12% should not

be diffi cult. This implies that with a 12% CAGR in domes c sales the industry should reach a produc on level of US$ 350 billion by 2024-25 from the current level of about US$ 100 billion for the domes c market. With a 20% CAGR in exports India would be expor ng about US$ 300 billion of tex le and apparel by 2024-25.

This would of course imply that growth rates in exports of fi bre and yarn would start declining and growth rates of apparel, homes furnishing, technical tex les and other fi n-ished products should grow very rapidly. This is going to be the trend as everyone is crystal clear about the benefi ts of climbing up on value chain and then expor ng the prod-ucts. The profi tability is much more signifi cant when you supply the fi nished garments as compared to supplying the yarns, and raw fabrics. This would also maximize employ-ment genera on and value crea on within the country in the tex le and apparel industry.

With regards to domes c market, within certain states such as West Bengal and North-Eastern states there exists a good room to develop the market in these areas. On certain exis ng problems in India in the fi eld of fi ber research, de-velopment and industrializa on, India needs an altera on in research environment to bring in the needed radical change.

1. T A M : India has overtaken Germany and Italy to emerge as

the world’s second largest tex le exporter.

But it lags China, whose exports are nearly seven mes higher. Data released by the Apparel Export Promo on Council, the industry body for garment exporters, showed that India’s tex les exports were es mated at $40 billion in 2013, compared with China’s $274 billion. Tex les include everything from fi bre and yarn to fabric, made-ups and readymade garments made of co on, silk, wool and syn-the c yarn. Over the past few months the Indian garment industry has staged a recovery of sorts which can be seen in the 23% rise in exports of shirts, trousers, skirts and other ready-mades during 2013.

Increasing labor cost and stringent environmental laws China is compelled to bring down its produc on; non-com-pliance of large number of factories in Bangladesh also pro-vides India a big opportunity in view of its rela ve advan-tage and risk appe te of Indian entrepreneurs. A small push from the Government may help India to get more business as overseas buyers are looking at India as safe and reliable op on for the sourcing. But to capture the space in market le by China and Bangladesh, we have to be compe ve in price, be er quality and delivery in proper me and there-fore, Government agencies’ ac ve support is very crucial.

In consulta on with the Industry, meanwhile, the Min-istry of Tex les has fi xed an export target of USD 45 billion for tex le products for the year 2014-15. Exports of tex le products are supported through diff erent schemes under Foreign Trade Policy e.g. Focus Market Scheme, Market Linked Focus Product Scheme, Focus Product Scheme and Duty Drawback Scheme. Exporters of tex le products can also avail duty free import of capital Goods under EPCG and raw material under Advance Authoriza on Scheme.

1.1 T B 2014-15Everyone accepts the fact that India has to increase

its share in export basket. In order to encourage exports of readymade garments it has been announced in “Union

COVER STORY ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY


15

Budget 2014 – 15” to increase the duty free en tlement for import of trimmings, embellishments and other specifi ed items from 3% to 5% of the value of exports.

The Prime Minister Narendra Modi government, in its fi rst budget exuded its intent to kick start the investment cycle to nurse India’s ailing economy back to good health. Coming amid high expecta ons from the tex le and garment industry, the Finance Minister Arun Jaitley, in his maiden Union Budget 2014-15, charmed the industry par cipants with an array of encouraging proposals.

The Central Plan for Ministry of Tex les has been fi xed at Rs 4,326 crore for 2014-15, about Rs 425 crore higher than the revised es mates for 2013-14, but Rs 305 crore lesser than the budget es mates for that year. A major por on of this has been allocated for Technology Up grada on Fund Scheme (TUFS) at Rs 2,300 crore. Compara vely, TUFS has got Rs 344 crore more than what was spent last year but Rs 100 crore lesser than what was intended for spending in 2013-14.

1.2 M I Technology Upgrada on Fund Scheme (TUFS) is one

of the fl agship schemes of the Ministry of Tex les and has helped the industry to garner investments of Rs. 243,000 crore for Moderniza on of its set up. The scheme was launched in 1999 and has been instrumental in helping In-dia achieve new heights in the development of the tex le sector and par cularly in the spinning segment. Personally I was involved in evalua ng this scheme at some point of me and I can vouch that indeed this scheme has been a turning point in India’s moderniza on eff orts of Tex le Industry. It has defi nitely brought the industry to gain the compe ve edge. In his Budget Speech of February, 2013, the Finance Minister had announced con nua on of TUFS in the 12th Plan with a major focus on moderniza on of the powerloom sector. Higher subsidies for weaving / powerloom sector have accordingly been planned in the con nued TUFS.

The tex les industry is provided credit at minimum rates both in the organized and the unorganized sector. In the 12th Plan period (2012-17), the past government had approved Rs 11,900 crore for the con nua on of TUFS and so far more than 15000 crore has been spent on this scheme.

1.3 S T C Development of various tex le clusters has been one of

the strategic path the Government is encouraging to boost the decentralized economy. The government proposed to set up mega tex le clusters at Varanasi, Bareilly, Lucknow, Surat, Ku ch, Bhagalpur, Mysore and one in Tamil Nadu with a sum of Rs 200 crore.

It is claimed that the Budget recognizes the aspira ons of a new India which is looking towards the government for decisively moving towards high growth, low infl a on and more jobs. As per the minister, this budget aims for a 7 % or higher growth rate in a sustained manner within the next few years and will also usher in macro-economic stability in the near future.

1.4 E To encourage exports of readymade garments, the Fi-

nance Minister announced an increase in duty free en tle-ment for import of trimmings, embellishments and other specifi ed items from 3 % to 5 % of the value of their exports. The Government has fi xed an export target of $17.2 billion for readymade garments during 2014-2015. The Scheme for Integrated Tex le Parks (SITP) was launched in 2005 to en-courage private investments and employment genera on in the tex le sector by facilita ng world class infrastructure for common facili es, such as roads, water supply treatment and distribu on network, power genera on and distribu on network, effl uent collec on treatment and disposal system, design centre, warehouse, fi rst aid centre, etc. The tex le parks are at diff erent stages of implementa on. Fourteen of the fi rst 40 parks have been completed and 13 parks are opera onal. Investment in parks ll date is Rs. 5,025 crores with direct employment of 47,167. Sixteen tex le parks were sanc oned in the 11th Five-Year Plan, of which 11 tex- le parks have become func onal. Five tex le parks were

sanc oned in the 11th Plan for Maharashtra, of which four are func onal now.

1.5 B T D -

Basic Customs Duty on raw materials (PTMEG etc.) re-quired for manufacturing of spandex yarn reduced from 5 % to Nil. To encourage new investment in the chemicals and petrochemicals sector, the Budget has reduced the basic customs duty on reformate from 10 % to 2.5 %; on ethylene, propylene, and ortho-xylene from 5 % to 2.5 %. Adding to it, the government proposed faster clearance of import and export cargo which will help in minimizing transac on costs and improving business compe veness. The FM also an-nounced exemp on of co on transport loading and unload-ing services from the purview of service tax. Southern India Mills’ Associa on (SIMA) considers that this development will off er considerable relief to the industry and also to cot-ton growers.

1.6 S A H SIn a move to carry forward the rich tradi on of hand-

looms of Varanasi, the FM announced to set up a Trade Fa-cilita on Centre and a Cra s Museum with an outlay of Rs 50 crore to develop and promote handloom products. Gov-ernment also proposed to set up a Hastkala Academy for the preserva on, revival, and documenta on of the handloom/handicra sector in PPP mode in Delhi, for which it has set aside a sum of Rs 30 crore. Further, to provide employment to the people of Jammu and Kashmir, the government pro-posed to invest Rs 50 crore to start a Pashmina Promo on Programme and a programme for the development of other cra s in the state. Someone has rightly said that “It’s impos-sible to please everyone.” While the Union Budget 2014-2015 succeeded in fetching praises from almost the en re tex le industry, there seemed to be a few who expected s ll more from the Budget.

1.7 FDI I Resurgence has been witnessed in the Indian tex le

sector with the introduc on of Foreign Direct Investment (FDI). The government is providing grants under market ac-cess ini a ve and market development assistance scheme

for maximum u liza on of FDI.

C SROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY


16

Various schemes like Technology Upgrada on Fund Scheme (TUFS), Scheme for Integrated Tex le Parks (SITP), Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS), Scheme for development of Technical Tex les, and Schemes for the de-velopment of the Powerloom Sector etc. have been imple-mented in the tex le sector.

India had shipped $ 36.69 billion worth during 2013 showing an upward trend of 11.58 percent. Tex le, clothing and handicra s worth $ 34.93 billion were shipped during April-March, 2012-13. Foreign direct investment (FDI) of worth $199 billion was also made in India’s tex le sector in the fi nancial year 2013-14. Especially for the period April-May 2014, the country’s tex le sector a racted FDI worth $ 11.70 million. The tex le ministry beckons a posi ve shi in India’s tex le export. The industry con nues to gain help as the government explores new markets by holding exhibi- ons in the Russian Federa on, Israel, Eastern Europe, La n

American countries and other non-tradi onal markets.

1.8 A E P C ’ V 2015

The world apparel market was worth US$ 345 bn in 2007. The market has grown at a rate of 8% during this de-cade. However, post quota the rate of growth has increased and for the last two years it has grown at a rate of 12%. There are two possibili es of growth from here on : First, the high growth scenario with average annual growth rate of 12% - In this case, growth trajectory remains same, at 12%. This could be because of supply side push of low cost ap-parel from China, Bangladesh, Vietnam and other emerging suppliers. Under this scenario, world apparel exports would be worth US$ 854 bn by 2015. Second, a moderate growth scenario with average annual growth rate of 8% - Modera- on due to recession in 2008 & 2009 as also possibility of

market satura on can result in growth of 8%. Under this scenario, world apparel exports would be worth US$ 640 bn by 2015. Thirdly, low growth scenario with average annual growth rate of 6% - In this case, under this scenario, world apparel exports would be worth US$ 550 bn by 2015.

With the moderate growth in world market, the likely scenario in 2015 will be as follows:

Global Apparel Trade : India vis-a-vis compe tors in 2015

Trade in US$ Bn Avg Growth rate % ShareWorld 640 8 100Bangladesh 26 12 4India 18 10 2.8Vietnam 32 20 5

This scenario is based on the present growth trends pre-vailing in the above listed countries including India. At pres-ent it is ranked sixth, a er China, EU, Hong Kong, Turkey and Bangladesh. With exports of US$ 18 bn, India is likely to fall behind Vietnam, Indonesia and Mexico and rank ninth in the world. With lower cost of labor and industry friendly labor laws in other countries as well as special trea es exis ng between US and EU and these countries, India is likely to slide down in this ranking.

2. T P2.1 S T T P

Several states in India have been proac ve in promo ng the technical tex les sector in the country. States like Guja-rat, Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Punjab have especially wit-nessed some success in this eff ort. Contribu ng 25% to the na onal technical tex le industry, Gujarat is a major player in the na onal technical tex le sector. Gujarat’s nearly 900 technical tex le units are engaged in each of the 12 sub-sectors of technical tex les, and the state is a key producer of commodity products for the technical tex le and down-stream industries.

Similarly Tamil Nadu, in turn, is also a fast-growing epi-center of technical tex les and is producers of agrotex les, medical technical tex les, sport technical tex les, nonwov-ens. Coimbatore is also home to one of the country’s eight Centers of Excellence for technical tex les, COE: Meditech (SITRA), which specializes in medical technical tex les. Fur-thermore, the state’s investor-friendly environment has enabled the development of tex le parks dedicated exclu-sively to technical tex les. The Government of Tamil Nadu approved the establishment of US$ 21.30 million technical tex le park in Pallavada, which is expected to commence produc on in 2013.

Maharashtra is providing signifi cant s mulus to the do-mes c technical tex les industry. Maharashtra is a key pro-ducer of agrotex les, woven technical tex les, ropes and cordages, indutech, and coir fi bre. There are four Centers of Excellence on technical tex les in the state: COE: Geo-tech (BTRA), COE: Agrotech (SASMIRA), COE: Non-wovens (DKTE), and, COE: Sportech (WRA).

The state is developing its fi rst technical tex les park in Ichalkaranji, which hosts a large number of stakeholders in the en re tex le value chain, with an investment of US$ 20 million.

Karnataka is a growing player in the Indian technical tex- les sector. During the state’s Global Investor Meet 2012,

held from June 6-8, 2012, the state a racted US$ 891 million in investments in its tex le sector alone; these investments included proposals for the establishment of two technical tex le mega projects for US$ 60 million and US$ 18.2 million in Hassan SEZ and Bellary, respec vely.

Rajasthan is yet another state char ng new fron ers in the na onal technical tex les sector. The state is a renowned leader in the global tex les sector, and is now encouraging the growth of technical tex les to advance its leadership throughout the tex le value chain. Bhilwara has especially emerged as one of the largest manufacturing centres for vis-cose-polyester tex les.

COVER STORY ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY


17

Punjab is also proving to be a promising market for Indi-an sportech manufacturers. The state hosts amongst India’s largest sports industries, and is a key supplier to the Indi-an Raffi a, ropes and cordages industries. The state demon-strates signifi cant poten al for the development of a vibrant and thriving industry for sports technical tex les.

Madhya Pradesh is another state that is demonstra ng promising growth in the technical tex les sector.

The above eight states’ industrial, MSME, and tex le policies have been instrumental in driving the growth of the technical tex les industry not just locally, but throughout the country.

3. N N T P R T A I

The Ministry of Tex les had ini ated the process of re-viewing the Na onal Tex le Policy, 2000 in order to facilitate the Indian Tex le Industry gain and sustain a global posi on in the manufacture and export of clothing and keeping in view the various changes both on the domes c and interna- onal fronts. Accordingly, an expert commi ee was set up

to make fresh recommenda ons for the tex le sector reviv-al. The dra Vision, Strategy and Ac on Plan has been sub-mi ed a er a detailed process of stakeholder consulta ons across the en re value chain.

Mr. Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Minister of State for Tex les (Independent Charge)Santosh Kumar Gangwar.

Considering the recommenda ons and feedback re-ceived at diff erent consulta on mee ngs, the commi ee iden fi ed basic concerns in the tex les sector and iden fi ed the na onal priori es in the form of a Vision & Strategy and the Ac on Plan for a aining the targets set for 2024-25. The Vision projects Indian tex le and apparel exports to grow from $39 billion at present to $300 billion by 2024-25. This translates into addi onal investment required of the order of $120 billion, and in the process around 35 million addi- onal jobs crea on is expected to take place. Through this

new and improved Tex le Policy, the Government wants to address concerns pertaining to the availability of skilled work force, new labor reforms, and to a ract investments in the tex le sector, in order to provide a future road map for the tex le and clothing industry.

The growth programme surely appears ambi ous. The chart compares the projected growth rate, in dollars, over the next 11 years with the actual growth rate of apparel ex-ports in the past eleven.

Apparel exports by China to the EU and US in the eleven years from 2000 grew 6.1 mes but at the beginning of the period China were not even in the WTO, and tex le exports from prac cally all developing countries to the EU and US at-tracted fi erce quota barriers. China’s eleven years of growth coincided with the withdrawal of these barriers, while Ban-gladesh’s 3.3-fold export increase coincided with a drama c reduc on in EU import du es levied on Bangladeshi gar-ments. India, by contrast, apparently expects its tex le and apparel exports to grow 7.7 mes over eleven years.

No one can disagree with the importance of India creat-ing 35 million new manufacturing jobs. However, the Indian tex le and apparel businesses, if they’re going to increase

their share of the world market at all, have to demonstrate to foreign buyers that they can compete with the kind of compe on they’ll be up against in the 2020s.

4. R F A P D -

An interna onal study group opined to approach proper u liza on of money and me by concentra ng upon some chosen categories of research rather than to approach all areas. To develop right products, right scien sts, right tech-nologists and right market are vital and decision makers should look into it. In todays’s market the product should be customer driven and be designed and developed in such a fashion in order to refl ect customers percep on of ‘quality of value’.

4.1. E Quality of design is a prac ce of using conceptual think-

ing, product designing and produc on planning all being done at one me. Since the customer evaluates the prod-uct in terms of value for money and expects quality product from the manufacturer, these aspects of maintaining the authen city of product and its quality are extremely import-ant.

4.2. P GThe customer’s percep on of quality and value –many

a mes taken as ‘product goals’ are required to be met. Hence there has to be process of evalua on of quality pro-fi le of the product.

4.3. N M – R DInnova on is a key to nay fl ourishing business and hence

market driven R&D for exploring poten al new products has to be in place. Naturally custmers’ need analysis has to be there before undertaking such eff orts. While cost compo-nent has to be also considered, the novel approach in de-signing such products got to be there to achieve compe ve edge.

4.4 NW E T C The organized sector should start diversifying the prod-

uct – mix by arranging produc on of conven onal prod-ucts with improved a ributes or altogether newer prod-ucts. They should undertake the gradual strengthening of technological capability of their manufacturing sector as a whole and hence they need to install high produc ve new genera on machinery for producing yarns and fabrics of im-proved quality at compe ve costs.

4.5 N M P Presently most of the manufacturers are not fully aware

of all the aspects of today’s market demands, especially ex-port and they are following ‘product driven marke ng’ in-stead of ‘market driven produc on’. In today’s market, it is the ‘consumer delight’ that is preferred over ‘consumer sat-isfac on’ with product quality. Hence, aggressive strategy for marke ng has to be adopted, specially for crea ng a new brand image in order to exploit the new market opportuni- es likely to be created for sustainable development.

C SROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY

18

19


20

CThe Government of India through the Ministry of Tex-

les is giving all-round policy support to strengthen the po-si on of Indian Tex le, Apparels and Technical tex le indus-try, so that a compe ve advantage can be provided to this mother industry while expor ng their goods. The domes c market is also expanding and it is important that the do-mes c consumer also gets their chosen goods with value for money. The support from state governments for modern-iza on and infrastructure development over and above that from the Union government is also quite encouraging and looking at the vision and goals ,it is understandable that the industry is strongly backed by the policy support. From the industry point of view they need to invest in moderniza on, designing and innova on as well as R&D for being not only compe ve in quality and costs ,but also innova ng in de-

ligh ng the customers of modern era. The kind of business opportunity which is going to be created due to China’s de-cline in produc on capacity as well as worsening situa on in Bangladesh, the industry should gear itself to deliver such demands. In the present era of the globalised trade, their brand image and product value off ered are also important. Sooner or later the tag of sustainability is also going to be one more emerging factor for providing an edge to newly off ered product.

A :• “Authors have vastly depended on the informa on provided in

public domain from the sites of MOT (PIB), AEPC, Yarns and Fibres news bureau Delhi and Mumbai, etcand are gratefully acknowl-edging these sources”

COVER STORY

COVER STORY

ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY

NATIONAL EMPLOYMENT POLICYBY SHRI. V.Y.TAMHANE

Employees are the decisive factor for effi cient opera- on of any industry. Hence in the present days, all industries

give emphasis on ‘Human Rela ons’ and not on ‘Industrial Rela ons’. Due to limited job opportuni es and a sizeable backlog of unemployment, coupled with the steep increase in the cost of living, dra ing of a sa sfactory Employment Policy at the na onal level is essen al.

In earlier days, the work force was available from ru-ral areas in the state or through migra on of persons from underdeveloped regions in other states. With the spread of industrializa on in backward areas under the policy of balanced growth, there is an in-built check on migra on. Hence, shortage of workers is felt by almost all industries.

A number of factors are responsible for the development of this situa on of shortage of workers. With the spread of educa on and introduc on of benefi cial legisla ons like the Right to Educa on Act, and increased opportuni es to get educa on with the se ng up of a large number of ed-uca onal ins tutes, there are signs of aversion on the part new entrants in the labour market for manual jobs, while the number of educated-unemployed is bloa ng. MNREGA is another factor which has resulted in the decline of rural youths going to towns and ci es for employment. The push for industrializa on of the underdeveloped areas in diff er-ent States has also curtailed migra on to some extent.

S AA raw person is recruited as an appren ce. The training

of appren ces is the subject-ma er of the Appren ces Act. There should not be any cap on the number of appren c-es for a designated trade, and the individual managements should be at liberty to recruit as many appren ces as they deem fi t.

The s pend to the appren ces should be paid as per the policy of individual managements. As a thumb rule, it could be 60% of minimum wages in the fi rst 3 months, 70% in the next 3 months on sa sfactory comple on of the 1st semester of 3 months, 80% in further 3 months on sa sfac-tory comple on of the 2nd semester of another 3 months and full minimum wages on successful comple on of the ap-pren ceship and absorp on as a regular worker. However,

as stated earlier, this rate of payment should only be indica- ve and without any statutory compulsion.

S .Government is rightly giving emphasis on skill develop-

ment. The process of developing voca onal training as a dy-namic vehicle for enhancing produc vity is proposed to be accelerated through the network of over 10,000 Industrial Training Ins tutes[ITIs].

It is a ma er of gra fi ca on that the tex le industry’s central body the Confedera on of Indian Tex le Industry has lost no me in se ng up the Tex le Sector Skill Council. The council should focus on strengthening the innova on, performance, compe veness and job-crea ng power of tex le mills. The Council should bring together industry, ac-ademia including technical ins tutes and HR Personnel. The objec ve of the Skill Council should be to educate and train the workforce for advanced manufacturing processes.

Gone are the days when the tex le industry was con-centrated in some ci es like Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Baroda, Indore, Delhi, Kolkata etc. Now, the industry is fairly spread out and exists at a number of centres, and even in rural ar-eas.

It will be diffi cult for individual mills to depute workers to ITIs for training purposes. The reason is that in a com-posite mills there are 15-20 types of diff erent machines or even more and to a lesser extent in the case of spinning mills and powerloom factories. Now, due to lack of mul -skilling, a worker working on one type of machine is not able to work on other types of machines. Hence to spare workers directly responsible to give produc on is a diffi cult job.

Another issue is that all ITI’s do not have machines re-quired for tex le mills. In fact, no ITI has any tex le machine. But, training has to be arranged on the machines on which the worker is currently working or going to work in future. In this context, the need for mul -skilling requires no over-em-phasis.

Hence, a be er op on would be to provide for training


21

SKILLNATIONAL EMPLOYMENT POLICYBY SHRI. V.Y.TAMHANE

within industry (TWI). Under this op on, workers will get trained on the machines on which they have to work. Gov-ernment should make available support desired by mills for introduc on and running of TWI. However, training in some trades like electrician, plumber, motorman etc could be ar-ranged in a nearby ITI, where emphasis is on skill develop-ment in the engineering-related trades.

Apart from improving skills of workers, training must in-s l in them that progress in life is the fruit of commitment, dedica on and devo on. The object of training must be to induce workers to achieve higher job produc vity, reduc on in wastage and controlling the usage of inputs like power, water, steam etc, and adop on of disciplined way of life.

B / .

The Skill Development Council should develop in the minds of workers a deep sense of commitment and to iden- fy themselves with the organiza on in which they are

working. There should be no militancy on the part of work-ers and demands should not be made at the cost of the unit itself. It is also necessary to decide whether there should be collec ve bargaining or unit-wise bargaining.

S -

If there are clusters of tex le mills, it will be easier to implement skill development programmes.

At such clusters, ITI’s should be set up with the installa- on of a model tex le mill, where workers could be trained

for ugrada on of skills, in diff erent trades.To promote development of clusters, there should be

schemes to be implemented jointly by Central and State Governments to provide for following infrastructure -i) Improved connec vity to nearby towns and ci es by

construc ng good motorable roadsii) Good motorable roads for interconnec ng diff erent fac-

tories in a cluster with each other.iii) Providing the facili es of schools, colleges, and other

educa onal ins tutes, and hospital of ESIC.iv) Uninterrupted supply of potable water and powerv) Establishment of banks, market for day-to-day require-

ments, etc.Development of such infrastructure facili es will lead to

development of rural areas, considerably reducing migra- on of popula on to ci es and towns for employment, and

pressure of ever increasing popula on on ci es and towns, etc. This will go a long way to achieve the objec ve of MN-REGA.

F L LThe focus of the Labour Laws should be to create ad-

di onal jobs and not reten on of exis ng jobs at any cost. Labour laws should not overlook the stake of the employer in the industry.

C / When one talks about star ng of new factories, one has

also to take into account the possibility of failure of some factories to run successfully. In some such cases, closure may become inevitable. For closure of an establishment, it is necessary to take permission of Government. The denial of permission for the closure of mills o en leads to illegal closures and the workers are denied even their statutory dues. Therefore, closure should be allowed without strings and permission to sell land without any restraint but with adequate compensa on to workmen.

C L Outsourcing is a worldwide phenomenon including hir-

ing contract labour. Of course, regulatory provisions should be strengthened to enlarge the responsibility of the contrac-tor and to ensure that contract workers are paid minimum wages and enjoy the statutory cover of social security mea-sures provided under the ESI and EPF. This would lead to a win-win situa on both for the labour and the employer. Thereupon, the Contract Labour (Regula on and Aboli on) Act should be renamed as Contract Labour Regula on Act.

M W A .It is recommended that the minimum wages should be

fi xed industry-wise taking into the paying capacity of the en-terprise. Minimum wages are fi xed by a Commi ee which is specially cons tuted by State Government and which includes representa ves of State Government, Employers and Employees. All the stakeholders should have the same percentage of representa on on the Commi ee. The tex- le industry consists of organized sector, and decentralized

sector. The representa ves of both the organized sector and powerlooms should fi nd a place on such Commi ees.

The purpose of the Na onal Labour Policy should be to create a dynamic and highly collabora ve environment in all manufacturing units.

ACME - Reliable 24/7 Power Solu on you can

rely on for all your tex le applica ons Tex le industries as we know are power intensive, and are always at a suff ering end due to gap in demand and supply of power. There are huge losses due to un-availability of a con nuous power supply that is free of interrup on or disturbance as is demanded by their cri cal con n-uous produc on processes. Unplanned stops means loss of produc on me.

This in turn leads to compromise on the quality. Studies have shown that a lot of tex le mills had to shut down due to heavy losses caused by frequent power interrup ons and all other power quality disturbances

ACME’s breakthrough Lithium-ion based technology helps tackle power interrup ons & loss due to power res-tora on me by providing dependable back-up power to Tex le Industry. The technology is built to prevent unforeseen stops. The solu on handles power-cuts, varying power quality and even stop in

op mal ways.

We possess a profound knowledge of tex le industry requirements. The solu- ons ACME off ers are therefore geared

towards ensuring a con nuous and reli-able power supply, process con nuity, re-duced costs as well as an op mal balance between energy produc on and process requirements.

Precision combined with fl exibility and robust reliability makes LiB technol-ogy solu on the op mal choice for the industry.

22

2323


24

Arvind es up with Gap to bring Iconic American Retail-er to India First stores to open in Mumbai and Delhi in 2015

Mumbai - Arvind announced that its subsidiary Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd, has ed up with Gap Inc., to open Gap stores in India. The fi rst stores are expected to open in In-dia’s two largest ci es - Mumbai and Delhi - star ng with Gap’s Summer 2015 collec on for adults, kids and babies. Arvind plans to open about 40 franchise-operated Gap stores in India.

“India is an emerging, vibrant market and an important next step in our global expansion strategy,” said Steve Sun-nucks, Global President of Gap. “Gap is loved around the world for our American casual style and enduring value and quality, and we are so pleased to bring our brand and prod-ucts to life for customers in India.”

As the world’s second most populous country with more than 1.2 billion people, India represents an import-ant pla orm to bring American casual style to consumers around the world.

“More than half of India’s popula on is under 25 and they are ac vely embracing fashion in today’s retail environ-ment,” said Ismail Seyis, Vice President of Gap Global Fran-chise. “We are thrilled to know that our brand awareness is very high and there is a deep affi nity for Gap in India. We look forward to gaining a deeper understanding of the mar-ketplace and consumer needs to create the best possible Gap brand experience for the local consumers.”

“We have a long and successful associa on with Gap as their vendor partner. Now I am delighted to extend this partnership to retail and bring Gap stores to India. We see

the addi on of Gap in our por olio as a signifi cant step to becoming the leading apparel retailer in India” said Mr. San-jay Lalbhai, Chairman & Managing Director of Arvind Lim-ited.

“Gap has a huge recall in India and is a favourite of many Bollywood stars in movies. Our goal is to leverage this huge awareness, to quickly scale up and build a large business for Gap Franchise in India” said J. Suresh, Managing Director & CEO, Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd.

Since launching its fi rst franchise-operated store in 2006, Gap Inc. has quickly expanded the interna onal reach of its brands, which now includes over 300 franchise-oper-ated stores along with over 3,200 company-owned stores. The Gap brand now has a presence in nearly 50 countries, due to the rapid accelera on and commitment to the global expansion strategy.

ARVIND GAP ARVIND GAP PARTNERSHIP

Tyco Fire Protec on Products Edu-cates Indian Building Safety Industry on Fire Detec on

Tyco Fire Protec on Products (“Tyco”)held a series of seminars in August en -tled ‘SIMPLEX – Building Safety’, focusing on the latest advancements in fi re detec- on and alarm systems, across India. The

events held in fi ve major ci es, brought together more than 700 architects, engi-neers and end users, such as facility man-agers and building owners. The seminars provided insights into the most recent updates to interna onal fi re detec on codes and standards and showcased the latest innova ons in fi re detec on from-SIMPLEX – the market-leader in helping people protect large-scale, complex proj-ects.

The seminars were part of a broader programme of ac vi es by Tyco and its expert distributors in suppor ng speci-fi ers, design engineers and end users in India. Industry specialists from Tyco, in-cluding Peter Ryan, Senior Commerciali-sa on Manager globally responsible for the SIMPLEX brand, and Rodger Reiswig,

Director of Industry Rela ons, shared their extensive knowledge on the latest technological developments and provid-ed prac cal analysis of the latest updates to the Na onal Fire Protec on Associa- on (NFPA) Codes and Standards.

Par cipants learnt about theSIMPLEX brand’s world-leading, integrated range of fi re protec on solu ons that include control panels, ini a ng devices, system accessories, worksta ons and no fi ca on appliances. Highlights included“TrueAlert ES” addressable no fi ca on appliances, which off er revolu onary automated self-test capabili es, and the latest enhance-ments to “TrueSiteWorksta on”, such as its mobile client applica on for secure, convenient access to important life safety system data at any me, from any loca- on.

Peter Ryan commented: “The rate of economic and commercial development in India brings with it many opportuni es and some dis nct challenges; ensuring fa-cili es are safe and well equipped to han-dle risk is cri cal. As the number of large-scale, complex construc on projects

increase, specifi ers, engineers and end users need trusted experienced partners with technological capabili es to help them protect their people and facili es effi ciently and eff ec vely.”

“With a networkable, modular de-sign, fault tolerant architecture and lead-ing-edge tes ng and service capabili es, SIMPLEX fi re detec on products can handle the most challenging facili es. Cost-eff ec ve to maintain, the products are upgradable for the life of the facility and compa ble with past and future SIM-PLEX fi re detec on products.”

Rodger Reiswig added: “We are com-mi ed to helping end users, specifying engineers and members of India’s build-ing and construc on community to keep informed about interna onal codes and standards and give them access to mar-ket-leading fi re protec on products. The seminars provide us with the perfect op-portunity to share our knowledge and en-sure our services and products con nue to meet and an cipate the unique needs of the Indian market.”

Great QualityMakes Great Fashion


26

P Y A (A .P ) , P . R K (A .P ), P . T M (A .P ) , M V RS V I T S , I (MP)

. .

AIn this project report I am going to discuss about the

recycling of the plas c bo les into the yarn and fabric. In this report it is describe how the plas c bo les that are a non degradable waste which is increasing the waste and one of the reasons for global warming can be converted into a useful product that is fi ber and than it can be further used for making yarn and into fabric.

In this report it will be discussed about the making of the fi ber from the plas c bo les and then forma on of yarn. Further we will study the proper es of the yarn and its appli-ca on in diff erent fi eld.

IToday, the u liza on of recycled materials is ma er-of-

fact, although in virtually no other sector is it quite as ad-vanced as it is in the case of the manufacture of manmade fi bers. Compared to using new plas cs, u lizing recycled ma-terials can lead to a signifi cant reduc on in energy consump- on and CO2 emissions. Furthermore, valuable raw material

resources such as oil are preserved and the amount of waste at dumps is reduced

The clothing industry is a heavy user of resources and an equally heavy polluter. It is a consumer industry that by its nature encourages people to buy and discard clothing according to the fashion of the day rather than in terms of durability or environmental impact. Environmental fashion, organic fashion, and recycled fabrics are a empts to alter the status quo. Organically produced co on avoids the use of chemicals and poisons but is s ll a minority of what is available. On the other hand, Australian company INSTYLE selects wool over recycled PET for its tex les because wool is locally produced and doesn’t contain the hazardous chem-icals which are present in PET.

“The fabric made out of the PET fi bre is basically poly-propylene and it is ten mes stronger than a normal poly-ester fabric. But to weave or knit the yarn made out of PET bo les needs very heavy machines and ll now Europeans have mastered in this technology and the looms/kni ng machines are very expensive,” points out Gautam. Howev-er, the company is exploring the possibility of manufacturing PET based fabrics in India.

L :• Fiber and fi laments, expert’s magazine, August, 2013• Scrap-pet-bo les-to-re-generated-polyester-staple.

O :1. To make the yarn and fabric from plas c bo les.2. To study the various proper es of the yarn and fabric

formed.

H“There’s been a fundamental change in our culture

when it comes to recycling and sustainability,” remarked Wil-liam L. Jasper, president and CEO of Greensboro, N.C.-based Unifi Inc., manufacturer of Repreve® recycled fi bers and yarns. “The younger genera on thinks about it diff erently than the older genera on. It’s really much more important now, and it’s going to con nue to be. People are star ng to recognize there are only so much landfi ll space and only so much oil.”

Post-industrial (PI) recycling has been prac ced for years, and the fi rst recycled-content tex le products con-tained primarily or exclusively PI materials, which would in-clude trimmings le on the cu ng room fl oor in apparel and other tex le product manufacturing facili es.

In recent years, post-consumer (PC) content has in-creased as more and more consumer recycling programs have been established in communi es across the United States and in other countries worldwide.

T :W ?• polyester fl eece or polar fl eece is a so , fl uff y, two-sided pile fabric which is really warm, really

durable, resists moisture and dries quickly• popular for outdoor wear since the early 1990s be

cause it’s lighter and warmer than wool• has also been used for more unusual garments

e.g. underwear for astronauts, ear-warmers for winter-born calves

• the polymer used to make polyester fi bres is knownas polyethylene terephthalate or PET; the same isused for drink bo les

• some or all of the yarn can be made from recycledbo les

W PET?• PET is the name of the resin used to make transpar

ent, light, sha erproof bo les for so drinks, juices,alcohol, water, detergents, soap etc

• PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate• bo les are the most signifi cant use for PET• PET is fully recyclable

M :The recycling process – the basis for further processing:

Expert processing of waste is the decisive prerequisite for manufacturing high-end recycled yarns. It enables the u liza on of recycled materials in place of new material with merely a small change to the processing method. To this end, there are two diff erent processing approaches, de-scribed as chemical or mechanical recycling.

In the case of chemical recycling, the old plas c is bro-ken down into its original monomers by means of glycolysis, hydrolysis or methanolysis. These monomers are then used to manufacture new plas c granulate through polymeriza- on. To this end, the quality of the recycled product is very

close to that of new materials and it can be used to spin high-end yarn.

Compared to mechanical recycling, the chemical pro-cedure requires greater energy consump on. Add to this the fact that due to the high capital investment requirements, this op on is only available to large-scale manufacturers, as cost effi ciency can only be achieved from annual capaci es of 50,000 tons and more.

For this reason, mechanical recycling has been the

TECHNICALRECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC


27

clearly predominant recycling method to date. Here, plas c waste is melted directly without any chemical decomposi- on. The melt can then be either processed directly into the

end product or fi rst granulated into chips. There is a current trend towards systems for in-house recycling of produc on waste in the form of chips. Recycling systems available on the market can process various forms of waste, including solid start-up lumps, for instance. To this end, the waste is shredded, melted and re-granulated. Processed in this way, it can then be simply reintroduced to the produc on cycle.

H - ?It all starts when you toss a PET bo le (labeled #1) into

a recycling bin. These bo les are sorted at a recycling facility and bundled together in large bales. The bales of PET bot-tles are then taken to a PET reclaiming facility. The bo les are thoroughly cleaned, the labels and caps are removed, and the bo les are separated by color (the clear bo les will produce a white-ish polyester yarn and the green bo les produce a green-ish yarn).

Once they’re sorted, the bo les go into a grinder where

they are ground into small fl akes. The fl akes are tossed in hot air to give them a hard candy coa ng and then dried to remove any remaining moisture. Next, the dry, crispy fl akes are shoved through hot pipes to melt them into a thick liq-uid. That liquid gets fi ltered through a dye plate with 68 ny holes. As the liquid polyester fl ows through the holes, it forms fi laments that are more than fi ve mes fi ner than hu-man hair. The fi laments pool and harden and are then sent over rollers where air entangles the fi laments to create a dental fl oss-like yarn. The machine spools the yarn and then pulls it over hot metal rollers to stretch it and realign the polyester molecules. The resul ng yarn is ready to be woven into polyester clothing.

PET • PET bo les are sorted from other recyclable plas cs

such as PVC and HDPE, as the reclaimed material (PET fl akes) is most valuable when it is most pure

• bales of recycled bo les are sorted manually or auto-ma cally on the basis of colour, and to remove any for-eign material or non-PET lids and bases

• the plas c is washed in a sterilising bath, a er which the clean containers are dried and crushed into ny fl akes

• the fl akes are washed again to ensure the purest possi-ble fi nal product

• these fl akes become the raw material for new prod-ucts

• for yarn, the light-coloured fl akes are bleached, while fl akes from darker bo les are used for yarn that will be dyed a dark colour; the fl akes are melted in a vat and forced through spinnerets to produce fi bres

P :R F• 10 plas c bo les = 1 pound of polyester fi ber• 1 ton (2000) lbs of plas c bo les recycled saves 3.8 bar-

rels of oil• 1 million plas c bo les recycled saves 250 barrels of

oil• 1 million plas c bo les recycled eliminates 180 metric

tons of CO2 emissions from being released into the at-mosphere

• 10% of all US oil consumed (2 million barrels per day) is used to make plas cs

• Recycling plas c bo les takes 8 mes less energy than to produce an equivalent amount of new ones

• 150 fl eece garments made from recycled plas c bo les save 1 barrel of oil

• 500 t-shirts made from recycled plas c bo les saves 1 barrel of oil

• 50 back packs made from recycled plas c bo les saves 1 barrel of oil

• Supplying the plas c bo les that Americans consume each year requires 47 million barrels of oil and releases 1.0 billion pounds of CO2 into the atmosphere

F Y C C• FIBERS: All natural and manmade fi bers and blends• OPEN-END: .4Ne. to 14Ne. or .67Nm to 23.6Nm. in sin-

gles and plies• DREF SPUN: Customized solu ons and proprietary capa-

bili es• TWISTING: Up to 16 components

P S

When the PET bo le is returned to an authorized re-demp on center, or to the original seller in some jurisdic- ons, the deposit is partly or fully refunded to the redeem-

er. In both cases the collected post-consumer PET is taken to recycling centers known as materials recovery facili es (MRF) where it is sorted and separated from other materials such as metal, objects made out of other rigid plas cs such as PVC, HDPE, polypropylene, fl exible plas cs such as those used for bags (generally low density polyethylene), drink car-tons, glass, and anything else which is not made out of PET.

Post-consumer PET is o en sorted into diff erent col-or frac ons: transparent or uncolored PET, blue and green colored PET, and the remainder into a mixed colors frac on. The emergence of new colors (such as amber for plas c beer bo les) further complicates the sor ng process for the recy-cling industry.

P

TECHNICAL RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN &

P

29

Advanced Fire Detectionsolutions for a wide variety of applications from

FireClass

When you need to protect people and buildings just like your family and home,

provides you with all you need from a single provider. Easy to install FireClass is the latest out-of-the box digital solution ideal for many environments.

or contact us at [email protected] or call us on Tel: +91 22 66286628 / Fax: +91 22 66286650

Tyco Safety Products (India) Pvt. Ltd.,1002, Wing “C”, 10th Floor, Godrej Coliseum, Sion, Mumbai 400 022, India

FireClass and any other product names listed above are marks and/or registered marks. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited.Copyright © 2012 Tyco Fire Products LP. All rights reserved.


30

The sorted post-consumer PET waste is crushed, pressed into bales and off ered for sale to recycling companies. Co-lourless/light blue post-consumer PET a racts higher sales prices than the darker blue and green frac ons. The mixed color frac on is the least valuable.

F The further treatment process includes crushing, wash-

ing, separa ng and drying. Recycling companies further treat the post-consumer PET by shredding the material into small fragments. These fragments s ll contain residues of the original content, shredded paper labels and plas c caps. These are removed by diff erent processes, resul ng in pure PET fragments, or “PET fl akes”. PET fl akes are used as the raw material for a range of products that would otherwise be made of polyester. Examples include polyester fi bers (a base material for the produc on of clothing, pillows, carpets, etc.), polyester sheets, strapping, or back into PET bo les.

M Melt fi ltra on is typically used to remove contaminants

from polymer melts during the extrusion process. There is a mechanical separa on of the contaminants within a ma-chine called a ‘screen changer’ a typical system will consist of a steel housing with the fi ltra on media contained in moveable pistons or slide plates that enable the proces-sor to remove the screens from the extruder fl ow without stopping produc on. The contaminants are usually collected on woven wire screens which are supported on a stainless steel plate called a ‘breaker plate’ a strong circular piece of steel drilled with large holes to allow the fl ow of the polymer melt. For the recycling of polyester it is typical to integrate a screen changer into the extrusion line. This can be in a pellet-izing, sheet extrusion or strapping tape extrusion line.

Once the fl akes are dried up, they pass through a process called electrosta c separator, which produces magne c fi eld to separate PET fl akes from metal, besides diff erent kinds of plas c par cles and other contamina ons. The cleaned fl akes of reclaimed PET are then forwarded to produc on sec on for the fi nal product to produce fi bre. According to Gopal Agarwal, CFO, GPL, the sor ng and processing of raw material is a key factor for maintaining uniform quality of fi n-ished product on constant basis as raw material is not having uniform characteris cs, and quality of fi nished goods may have signifi cant degree of varia ons.

H

?Conver ng it into garment or home furnishing products

is an interes ng transi on. It actually happens by re-mel ng the PET bo les and then thick material is pressed through spinnerets, leaving them as fi laments - just like in case of the produc on of virgin synthe c fi bres. Filaments can be used as endless yarns or curled and cut into length-defi ned fi bres for spinning. A er weaving, the fabric is converted into gar-ment, preferably fl eece pullovers, jackets or sweatshirts.

The recycled PET thread or yarn can be used either alone or together with other fi bres to create a very wide variety of fabrics. Tradi onally these fabrics were used to create strong, durable and rough products, such as jackets, coat, shoes, bags, hats and accessories. However, these fabrics are too rough on the skin and could cause irrita on. Therefore, they are not used on any clothing that may irritate the skin, or where comfort is required. But in today’s new eco-friend-ly world, there has been more of a demand for “Green” products. As a result, many clothing companies have started looking for ways to take advantage of this new market and new innova ons in diff erent ways to process the fabric, to use the fabric, or blend the fabric with other materials for

be er fi nish so as to be more wearer-friendly.

TThe processing of the melt from recycled material can

in principle be carried out in the same way as in the case of u lizing new granulate. The fi laments are cooled, drawn, textured and wound following mel ng and spinning. Fun-damentally, recycling applica ons in yarn manufacturing in-clude: staple fi bers, carpet and tex le fi laments as well as

TECHNICALRECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC

PET bo les are separated from other plas- cs in a materials recovery facility.

Bales of crushed PET bo les sorted according to color: blue, transparent,

and green.

Bales of crushed PET bo les.


31

nonwovens. As examples, the number of 2-liter PET bo les required for specifi c applica ons is roughly as follows: 5 for a T-shirt, 20 for the fi lling of a winter jacket, 20 for a sweater, 35 for a sleeping bag and 40 for 1 m2 of carpe ng.

The overall trend is moving away from simple fi llers to more diff eren ated products with higher value added. These include, for example, spun-dyed FDY fi laments.

BCF applica ons – for which the deployment of recycled PET is already widespread – are extremely interes ng. Recy-cled PET is frequently used in regranulated form and incor-porated in diff erent ra os. However, applica ons with 100 percent inputs of fl akes are currently possible using Oerlikon Neumag technology. It is par cularly in this sector that there is currently strong growth, with an increase of 13,000 tons per annum in 2013 and a further 27,000 tons per annum by 2015.

In the case of staple fi bres, the trend is currently very much on the deployment of bi-component technology. Here, separate extruders with individually temperature-con-trollable melt pipes and special spinning units are u lized, with either diff erent polymers or the same polymers with various iscosi es being used. The spinning beam is connect-ed to the temperature regula ng system of the higher-melt-ing polymer. Short dwell mes in the spinning beam prevent the lower-mel ng polymer experiencing thermal damage. The spin pack for bi-component fi bres physically separates both melts right up to the capillary that actually creates the fi lament. Pre-spinneret and spinneret subsequently allow the two components to be arranged in diff erent ways.

Both round and trilobal cross-sec ons are possible in the case of fi bres with mantle and core. One possible com-bina on for the components is recycled PET for the core, with a mantle made from the respec ve virgin material or a copolymer. To this end, the ra o of core and mantle can be variably adjusted, so that – despite the deployment of pre-dominantly recycled plas c – the thin mantle layer ensures a perfect surface.

And recycled material is also used for manufacturing fi lament yarn. Here, melt-dyed FDY yarns, which can be produced directly from fl akes without prepara on, are a growing area. To this end, some companies are – thanks to Oerlikon Barmag machines – already successfully marke ng recycled FDY, for example. As minor contaminants can re-sult in more frequent yarn breaks, u lizing the very latest spinning technology is par cularly important. POY and DTY from recycled raw materials usually have coarser ters to compensate for weaknesses caused by contaminants (70- 150 den).

China recently introduced three offi cial standards for fi laments made from recycled materials: R-POY, R-DTY and R-FDY. These categories, with fi xed logos, technical require-ments and tes ng methods have created uniform standards.

In the future, greater deployment of recycling is quite conceivable within the industrial yarns sector. In the Ford Focus, a large propor on of the seat covers today are made from recycled polyester fi bres. Here, around 22 plas c bot-tles are recycled for use in each vehicle. The manufacture of re cord however is even more problema c and is only possible using chemical recycling. Residual contamina on is s ll too high in the case of mechanical processes.

AThe only diff erence between the produc on of recycled

polyester yarn and virgin polyester yarn is in the ini al mate-rial. The produc on of virgin PET begins with the produc on of nurdles--teeny ny plas c resin pellets-made from petro-leum and other products. Unfortunately, nurdles are li le troublemakers that o en fi nd their way into waterways. Addi onally, making nurdles requires a lot of energy, much more then grinding up plas c bo les. By some es mates, the produc on of recycled PET uses 2/3 less energy and al-most 90% less water than the produc on of virgin PET. And of course, no new petroleum is required to produce recycled PET

W ?• landfi ll: an es mated eight plas c drink bo les are kept

out of landfi ll for each metre of polar fl eece made from 80% recycled PET bo les

• fossil fuels: virgin polyester is derived from petroleum, so it saves on fossil fuels

• Patagonia, the leading manufacturer of recycled polar fl eece clothing, es mates that 25 drink bo les go into each jacket. They claim that for about 150 garments made, they save a barrel of oil and avoid half a tonne of toxic air emissions compared to making it out of virgin polyester.

Newlife™ is a complete and cer fi ed system of recycled polyester fi lament yarns coming 100 percent from recycled plas c bo les, processed into a polymer through a mechan-ical (not chemical) process and spun into yarn. The fl exible Newlife pla orm allows for a vast number of applica ons and performances with levels of quality at least equal to virgin polyester equivalents, but with considerable resource and cost savings for the environment. Applica ons for New-life include fashion, sportswear, underwear, technical cloth-ing, work wear, medical garments, outdoor clothes, furnish-ings and accident preven on tex les. Thirty 1.5 liter bo les make one kilo of Newlife yarn.

G Worldwide, approximately 7.5 million tons of PET were

collected in 2011. This gave 5.9 million tons of fl akes. In 2009 3.4 million tons were used to produce fi ber, 500,000 tons to produce bo les, 500,000 tons to produce APET sheet for thermoforming, 200,000 tons to produce strapping tape and 100,000 tons for miscellaneous applica ons. (Source: PCI, www.pcipetpackaging.co.uk )

Petcore, the European trade associa on that fosters the collec on and recycling of PET, reported that in Europe alone, 1.6 miln tones of PET bo les were collected in 2011 - more than 51% of all bo les. A er exported bales were taken into account, 1.12 million tons of PET fl ake were pro-duced. 440,000 tons were used to produce fi bers, 283,000 tons to produce more bo les, 278,000 tons to produce APET sheets, 102,000 tons for strapping tape and 18,000 tons for miscellaneous applica ons. (Source: PCI for Petcore and EuPR)

In 2012, 81% of the PET bo les sold in Switzerland were recycled.

I

TECHNICAL RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC

32


33

FABRIC FROM PLASTIC• Arora Fibres recycles discarded plas c bo les into

polyester used as packaging material Don’t chuck out those plas c bo les that have been piling up in your kitchen for days. They can be re-used to make polyester fabric. Rupinder Singh Arora, Chairman of Arora Fibres Ltd, has been recycling discarded plas c bo les into polyester staple fi bre since 1994 a er he saw the colossal damage to the environment from mountains of bio-degradable plas c being burned in the country. “We were the pioneers in this fi eld.• Patrick Yarns is leading the revolu on in spinning high

quality yarns from recycled fi bers. Our proprietary en-gineered process of cer fi ed tex le recycling reclaims unwanted cloth or garment fabrics without seriously damaging the fi bers.

• The major customers for our PET recycled fi bre are spinning mills like Birla Cotsyn, Chenab Tex les, Orient Syntex to men on a few. The end use of this recycled fi bre is - spun yarn, hosiery yarn, blended woollen yarn and technical tex les,” shares Gopal.

• The yarn produced out of the recycled fi bre is being ex-ported as well as being sold in the domes c market. Del-hi-based Orient Syntex is expor ng its yarn to Malaysia and in the domes c market it is selling its yarn through agents in Erode,Tirupur, Salem, etc. who are selling these yarns to companies like Export Tex, Javan Knits Garments, etc.

• According to Gautam Sureka of Eastern Silk Industries, Kolkata which has gone for a joint venture with an Italian company SATI to manufacture technical tex les in India for industrial wear, the recycled PET fi bre has not picked up so much in India for tex le purpose as it is a very ex-pensive process and there is yet no real demand for the same.

• Polar fl eece has become the fabric of choice for outdoor enthusiasts because it is so light and warm. Increasing amounts of polar fl eece are made from recycled PET bo les in preference to virgin polyester. The process saves on raw materials and energy use, and diverts rub-bish from landfi ll.

• Patagonia, a US based company, pioneered the concept of recycled polarfl eece garments for outdoor wear. It employs environmental design strategies at all stages of the garment life cycle. Recycled polar fl eece clothing is available in Australia, but the fabric is currently manu-factured overseas.

• There are arguments for and against the use of PET over natural fi bres. Although recycled PET is a synthe c ma-terial, its use is environmentally preferable to co on. Co on produc on uses more land, more water, and more chemicals. Australia is making strides into environ-mental fashion that extend beyond polar fl eece. Tencel and hemp are being used for clothing by Australian com-panies. Target is using recycled fabrics in its clothing and doonas.

• LIBOLON strives for developing recycled polyesters and innova ves RePET®-solu on rpet recycled polyesters yarns are more environmentally-friendly than tradi on-al RePET® products due to the elimina on of the dyeing process. Using Recycled Polyester and eco tex les, LI-BOLON’s RePET®-solu on rpet recycled yarns reduce emissions of GHG and COD, lower water consump on, and decrease the amount of chemicals involved in the

produc on process. RePET®-solu on rpet recycled yarns also off er higher performance, including light-protec- on, water-protec on, washing-protec on, an -UV,

an -aging, an -weathering, and color reproducibility proper es. LIBOLON’s RePET®-solu ons will be your best choice for Recycled Polyesters and eco tex le prod-ucts.

AFinished product fi nds applica on in spinning of yarn,

stuffi ng of toys and other life style products like pillows, quilts, ma resses and furniture, non-woven carpets and fabrics, automo ve non-woven roofi ng insula on, medical & packaging tex le, geo tex le, fur fabrics and other tech-nical tex les

R PET • can be recycled back into bo les, but at present the

fi bre market is the major outlet for recycled PET• fi bres from recycled PET bo les are used to make a

range of items: fi ner fi bres are used for clothing; coarser yarns are used for carpe ng

S Y A• Colored recycled fi ber blends producing economical col-

orfast yarns• Integra ng recycled fi bers in the yarn center to create a

core fi ller• Matching a recycled fi ber percentage within a high

value, yet economical performance blend• Op mizing a higher valued recycled fi ber percentage in a

commodity-driven yarn to enhance product value with-out signifi cant price disrup ons

BUSINESS STRENGTHSPoint 1: Prolifera on in the use of PET bo le on the back of

7 – 8 % CAGR growth coupled with low scale of recycling (about 30 – 40 %) to yield abundant feed stocks to be recycled.

Point 2: Indian Man Made Fiber (MMF): Natural fi ber ra o of 41:59 to align to global ra o of 63:37 consump on. Huge scope of growth in consump on of polyester fi ber.

Point 3: Raw material price for recycled PSF insulated unlike in virgin PSF which is linked to crude prices (PTA and MEG) thereby ensuring stable margins with scale up of business.

Point 4: Changing life styles and cost eff ec veness led to innova ve applica ons of the MMF. This has clearly helped to expand its market share. Such trend is likely to con nue. Some of the notable ones are winter clothes, Disposables, Non-woven, technical tex les etc. Expand-ing market lends growth visibility

Point 5: Govt. support in terms of Excise Duty exemp on for recycled PSF.

Point 6: Industry associa ons like CII, have launched pro-grams to reward companies for green endeavour like recycling. In future, government shall extend benefi ts to such companies.

I C TIn India as well there are companies, which have put up

PET phase capaci es. As per the es mates, India produces 500,000 tonnes of pet waste every year and due to increas-ing use of pet bo les in daily consump on, the amount of

RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC TECHNICAL


34

N

waste is going to grow by leaps and bounds. At present, the total recycling capacity in India is around 145,000 TPA, out of which Reliance Industries Ltd. has a capacity of 42,000 TPA and Kanpur-based Ganesh Polytex Ltd (GPL) has a ca-pacity of around 39,600 TPA and rest is with other small lo-cal players.

Presently GPL is recycling about 1.4 billion PET bo les annually at its Rudrapur plant where the bo les are fi rst cleaned and then sent to shredders and grinders to reduce them to fl akes. The fl akes are forwarded to the cleaning sec- on for a series of sor ng and washing process performed

with chemicals to remove any residual.“Though it is s ll early, buyers have started showing

interest. While interac ng with various buying offi ces like Ahlens, JCPenney, to men on some, they are looking at re-cycled PET as an alternate to man-made fi bre. Says Richard James, Head Ahlens India, “On my recent visit to Thailand, I met a company which is making yarn out of PET, I found the product very interes ng and I am now looking at develop-ing fabric with this yarn to do some product development in home furnishing items like for rugs and carpets.”

Whatever developments in PET yarn Richard found in Thailand was in thicker count and not fi ner counts which can be used for making garment. JCPenney too is looking for PET yarn and fabric makers in Taiwan.

As things are moving it would not take too long for fab-rics made out of PET bo les to get popular with consumers especially for industrial garment and sportswear. The de-mand of course has to percolate from the buyers’ end and when there is demand, the developments will take place. How soon the concept spreads, that is s ll to be specu-lated as the technology is expensive but then it’s environ-ment-friendly preposi on which is buyer’s fi rst concern; however, it also contradicts their belief that it is not organic and cannot be organic.

S

The savings made by u lizing low-cost raw materials for recycled products are usually completely eaten up by com-plex collec on and prepara on processes.

Nevertheless, recycling can s ll generate a rac ve prof-its, as customers are increasingly willing to pay higher pric-es for sustainable and environmentally-friendly products. The growing interest in ecological yarns has been driving the crea on of new and highly-respected cer fi cates. To be issued these coveted labels, manufacturers must provide evidence of sustainable produc on for 100 percent of their recycled material. For this reason, ever more companies are demanding energy-saving machines for manufacturing high-end recycled yarns. Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag have the innova ve technologies to cater to this expanding market segment with the right machine concepts.

RESULT AND CONCLUSIONThe prac cal will be further con nued in the major proj-

ect and in that the yarn and fabric will be formed and fur-ther study will be done in that.References:• Fibers and fi lament, issue aug,2013• Scrap-pet-bo les-to-re-generated-polyester-staple.• h p://merridypugh.com/por olio/recycling-project• h p://www.patrickyarns.com/green_recycled/earthspun/• h p://specialtyfabricsreview.com/ar cles/1012_np2_postcon-

sumer_polyester.html• h p://www.indiantex lejournal.com/ar cles/FAdetails.as-

p?id=2904• h p://www.vrijesh.com/recycled_polyester.htm• h p://www.tex leworld.com/Issues/2010/November-December/

Features/From_Waste_To_Worth• Clark Howard, Brian. “Recycling Symbols on Plas cs - What Do

Recycling Codes on Plas cs Mean”. The Daily Green (Good House-keeping). Retrieved May 7, 2012.

• Teijin Group. “Teijin Develops Eco-friendly Wet-strong Prin ng Paper Made 100% with Recycled Polyester Derived from Used PET Bo les”. Teijin Group. Retrieved March 12, 2013.

• “Plas c Packaging Resins”. American Chemistry Council.• Melt Filtra on Op ons and Alterna ves

Exci ng innova on in fi re detec- on comes to India Region

Tyco Fire Protec on Products has launched a new fi re detec on solu on in the India region. FireClass is the lat-est innova on in fi re detec on tech-nology which integrates a full range of detectors and ancillary units with both conven onal and addressable panels. This new system provides installers and fi re system integrators with advanced fi re detec on products designed with ease of installa on and simplicity in mind available from a single provider.

FireClass has been engineered for intui ve use and simple confi gura on and is based on an established and trusted technology pla orm from Tyco Fire Protec on Products. It off ers cus-tomers an ‘out of box’ fi re detec on solu on that can be easily confi gured and installed. With a robust digital

pla orm, FireClass also gives end users fl exibility in service and maintenance op ons and spare part procurement.

“Innova on and product develop-ment are central to our business strat-egy,” comments Nishith Shah, Country Manager TFPP - India Region. “Building on our experience in the fi re detec on industry, we’ve taken a new approach which provides our trade customer base with a complete brand that inte-grates proven technology and robust, reliable products that are easy to use. With FireClass, we’re able to off er fi re system installers and integrators a com-plete solu on that enables them to ra- onalise suppliers, saving me and cost

during the installa on and confi gura- on phases.”

The FireClass por olio includes a complete range of fi re panels which of-fer solu ons for all applica ons. These

include the J408 conven onal two, four and eight zone panel and the J424 con-ven onal expandable to up to 24 zones panel, all with op onal ex nguishment module. Addressable panels such as the FireClassFC501, aTriple Circuit Single Loop Panel, can be confi gured in min-utes.Sinha, Shabdsheel, Sales Director at Tyco Fire Protec on Products adds, “We believe there are signifi cant op-portuni es for the new FireClass range and have already received a posi ve response from some of our customers looking for an integrated fi re detec on package. This new system comple-ments our exis ng range of fi re detec- on solu ons Simplex, for the larger,

mul -site complex applica ons. We are extremely excited about the launch of the FireClass brand and product range in India and look forward to welcoming exis ng and new customers.”

RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRICTECHNICAL


35

Ni n.T.Pa l Prof Dr.S.P.Borkar

AThe process of conver ng fi bres into yarn is complex,

and requires many inves ga ons and new technical solu- ons.Ring, Compact, Rotor and Air-jet spinning systems pro-

vide yarn with diff erent structures and proper es. Each sys-tem has its limita ons and advantages in terms of technical feasibility and economic viability.

The output poten al of the Rotor and Air-jet spinning has quickly captured the a en on of spinners who have a hard me staying in business due to the persistent and growing global compe on. Any improvements in terms of the quality or count range would increase the demand for new spinning systems and broaden their applica on areas.

K : Air -Jet spinning, Ring spinning, Compact spinning, Ro-

tor Spinning, Handle,Comfort.

IThe most common spinning systems to convert fi bres to

yarn are Ring, Compact, Rotor, and Air-jet spinning. Charac-teris cs of yarns made from each of these systems & their limita ons are briefl y described under.

R SIn ring spinning,the fi bre mass of the rove is reduced

by a dra ing unit. The twist inserted moves upwards and reaches the fi bres leaving the dra ing unit. The fi bres lay around one another in concentric helical path. The normal

force encountered by the fi bres enhances the adhesive forc-es between the fi bres and prevent fi bres from fl ying or slip-ping past each other under the tensile strain.

It is the process of a enua ng the roving strand un lre-quired fi nal yarn count achieved and inser ng twist to the fi bres by means of a rota ng spindle and winding the yarn on a bobbin. These three stages take place simultaneously and con nuously.The ring yarn is characterized by high fl ex-ibility in the use of the raw material, the yarn count and the yarn character. It possesses a high degree of strength and yarn hairiness.

Compact SpinningAll the improvements and op miza ons of the ring spin-

ning process only par ally relieve the problems caused by the spinning triangle. The spinning triangle formed by the fi bre bundle at delivery roll nip is the weakest point in the ring-spun yarn forming process.

Based on a thorough analysis of the spinning triangle structure, reached was the conclusion that only successful solu on of the spinning triangle problem would enable the produc on of the ring-spun yarn with less hairiness and bet-ter physical-mechanical proper es.

The ring spinning process with the minimized spinning triangle is called the compact (condensed, compressed).

Compact is also dis nguished by extremely high strength, even yarn structure, low hairiness and high yarn density.

R SIn rotor spinning, fi bre bundle from the sliver feed stock

is separated into individual fi bres with an opening roller in an air stream and fi bre are re-collected in the rotor groove. The rota ng, brush-like open yarn end fi rst catches fi bres in the core and then with further rota on gradually takes up fi -bres towards the periphery. In the interior, where the fi bres cannot avoid the twist, the strand becomes more compact but also somewhat harder. On the other hand, towards the exterior, compactness and hardness fall off to an increasing degree, since here the fi bres are par ally less twisted-in.Shortly before leaving the rotor groove the twis ng yarn catches some single fi bres, which then are wound around

VeermataJijabai Technological Ins tute (VJTI),Mumbai

Ring Spinning Compact Spinning

• Most fl exible in raw material,count, characteris cs• High tenacity• High hairiness

• Highest tenacity• Even yarn structure• Low hairiness• High yarn density

R S A - S

• High op cal evenness• Low varia on in tenacity• Designable hairiness• High abrasion resistance• High volume

• Unique low hairiness• High volume• Low tendency for saff • High abrasion resis-

tance

KNITTED FABRIC SOFTNESS WAYS TO IMPROVE TECHNICAL

Fig.1 - Characteris cs of the yarns produced from diff erent spinning system


36

the fi bre compound like wrappers. Those “wrapper fi bres” are a typical characteris c of rotor yarns.

A - In Air- jet spinning, a sliver is fed to the dra ingsystem;

the dra ed sliver enters a spinning nozzle. The leading end of the fi bres forms the parallel yarn core; the free fi bre ends are wound around the yarn core by the air in the spinning nozzle. The Air- jet yarn is then wound onto a package.

The air-jet-spun yarn structure consists of core fi bres without signifi cant twist and covering fi bres with a genuine twist, which ul mately produces the corresponding

yarn tenacity. The specifi c yarn structure results in yarn tenacity between that of a ring-spun yarn and that of a ro-tor-spun yarn. (2) (3) (4)

Y

The yarn structure primarily depends upon the raw ma-terial, spinning process, spinning principal, machine se ngs, twist, etc. The structure can be voluminous or compact, high or low hairiness, so or hard, round or fl at.

But yarn structure is not simply appearance. It has a greater or lesser infl uence on:• Handle • Strength and elonga on• Resistance to abrasion• Dye absorp on

N – P CCompared with ring spinning, they off er the following

advantages:• High produc on rates• Elimina on of processing stages• Considerable reduc on in personnel and space and

energy consump on• Rela ve ease of automa on.

Yarn characteris c of Rotor and Air-jet yarn is diff ering from that of ring-spun yarn, which s ll represents the basic standard for comparison.

T :

• Greater demands on the raw material;• Market segments limited to a narrow count range, spe-

cifi c raw material types, specifi c end products• High level of know-how needed for spinning op miza-

on and process maintenance• Expenditure on repair and maintenance.

R - T Main criteria for consumer tex les at the POS (point of

sales) are,• Op cal impression• Touch/ Hand • Price

Whenever we go out for shopping, usually we get at-tracted by colours of fabric displayed in the showrooms. So

colour is the fi rst and foremost a ribute which tempts us while purchasing. Second is the fabric feel which s mulates the purchase decision further. So according to the survey conducted by Co on Incorporated, so ness of the fabric contributes to 84% irrespec ve of the gender of the buyer.

Fig. 2 - Co on Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor Survey (5)In case of co on knits, so hand feel is the most expect-

ed characteris cs of the garment whether it is an innerwear or an outerwear.

R S S Yarns produced from new spinning systems like rotor

and air-jet have harsher feel as compared to ring spun yarn due to their diff erent outer structure. With the proper selec- on of raw material, spinning components and machinery

se ng, now it would be possible to compensate in order to improve so ness even on new spinning systems. With this, the gap between new spinning system and ring spun yarn can be narrowed down without compromising the parent benefi ts like be er abrasion and pilling resistance of Rotor and Air- jet spun yarn respec vely.

C PTex le wet processing have three stages:pre-treatment,

colora on and fi nishing. Pre-treatment: It is a process, where grey fabric under-

goes scouring and bleaching to remove the natural impu-ri es, pec n, waxes as well as added impuri es. This is a prerequisite to be er and uniform colora on

Colora on: It is a process of adding colour to tex le product such as fi bre, yarn and fabrics

Finishing: It is the fi nal step in the manufacturing pro-cess; the last chance to provide the proper es that cus-tomers value.Finishing completes the fabric performance and gives it special func onal proper es including the fi nal ‘touch’.

Use of various so eners in the fi nal stage of chemical fi nishing by exhaust, pad or deposi on on surface by other means such as foam fi nishing, spraying etc. is used to impart the desired so handle. Variousso eners such as organic(-ca onic, anionic& non-ionic), polyethylene emulsions & sili-con emulsions(Macro, Micro,Nano) are available in the mar-ket & being used by customers based on the desired results &cost-eff ec veness. Amongthese ,the silicon emulsions & silicon based combina on so eners are extensively being used for the fi nishing of co on knits.

Silicone so eners are becoming extremely important because of their very good so ness and greater wash perfor-

KNITTED FABRIC SOFTNESS WAYS TO IMPROVETECHNICAL


37TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014www.textilevaluechain.com

manceas compared to others. The mechanism of so ening by silicone treatment is due to fl exible fi lm forma on. The reduced energy required for bond rota on makes the silox-ane backbone more fl exible. Therefore, polysiloxanes form a fl exible fi lm on fi bres and yarns and hence reduces the inter-fi bre and inter-yarn fric on. Thus, the silicone fi nishing of tex les produces an excep onally so handle combined with other proper es such as superior smoothness, greasy feel, excellent body, improved crease resistance, etc. (6) (7)

Fig. 3 - Cross sec on of yarns treated with silicone so -eners. a Macroemulsion silicone par cles deposited on the yarn surface. b Microemulsion silicone par cles penetrated into the yarn(8)

Silicone so eners are based on macro and micro emul-sions. Par cle size of macro emulsion silicone so eners is 150-250 nm while that of micro is lower than 30 nm. Due to this fact, they penetrate the inner structure of the yarn or the fabric while macro emulsion silicone so eners se le on

the surface of the yarn or the fabric (Fig no.3).Macro emul-sions also have lower washing fastness compared to micro emulsions.

Macro and micro emulsions are generally amino sil-icones. Micro silicone emulsions give a permanent feel to the fabric with a high degree of so ness. Amino func onal silicones have shown good so ening ability.

R1. Rieter Com4 Yarns2. Hans leitner, Harald Schwippl,Processing characteris cs of

TENCELR LF / co on blends on Rieter’s 4 end spinning systemsRIETERSpecial

Prints 3. Carl Lawrence - Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology 4. Anindya Ghosh, ‘Studies on structural aspects of ring, rotor air jet

and open-end fric on spun yarns’ Na onal conference on Emerg-ing trends in tex le, fi bre& apparel engineering, Govt. college of engineering, Berhampore, West Bengal, March 2006

5. Rameshkumar C., Anandkumar P.,, Senthilnathan P., Jeevitha R. Anbumani N - Compara ve studies on Ring Rotor and Vortex Yarn Kni ed Fabric - AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 8, No4, December 2008

6. Co on Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor Survey 7. S. D. Wolfgang, H. J. Peter J. “Chemical Finishing of Tex les”,

(2004) Woodhead Publishing.8. W. D. Schindler & P. J. Hauser. “Chemical Finishing of Tex les”,

(2004) Woodhead Publishing.9. MazeyarParvinzadeh&RoozbehHajiraissi - Macro- and Micro-

emulsion Silicone So eners on Polyester Fibres: Evalua on of Diff erent Physical Proper es J SurfactDeterg (2008)

a b

KNITTED FABRIC SOFTNESS WAYS TO IMPROVE

OUTLOOK EDNA

TECHNICAL

In opening the 13th edi on of OUTLOOK™, the world-leading conference for the nonwovens personal care industry, Pierre Wiertz, General Manager of EDANA remind-ed delegates that there was a close rela onship between many of the conference themes, and EDANA’s daily mission to support the growth and promote the sustainable devel-opment of the industry.

“While our industries con nue to face challenges, be it those raised by the rela ve uncertainty of the current global economy or geo-poli cal situa ons, or the demands from the end consumer, our industry will address these – as you do with other challenges – with a recogni on of the indis-pensible role your products play in our lives every day, and the social benefi ts they deliver.” said Wiertz.

“With the changing demands from the consumer, from developing markets, and evolving requirements along the supply chain, both the Associa on’s coordinated pro-gramme of work, and the con nual investment and devel-opment by companies are essen al to the sustainable and profi table growth of individual companies and the indus-tries we serve.” con nued Wiertz.

With more than 420 delegates from across the nonwov-ens and related industries, OUTLOOK™ was again confi rmed

as the must-a end event of the year for the personal care and hygiene products industries.

Feedback from par cipants throughout the event un-derlined the sa sfac on with the many opportuni es to meet with the industry, and the mix and quality of papers. With opportuni es engineered for delegates to focus both on the conference proceeding and to enjoy relaxed net-working, a rac ng the whole supply chain of the absorbent hygiene products and wipes industry from across the globe, OULOOK™, the only one of its kind in Europe, is one of the “must-a end” events each year.

With OUTLOOK™ having already expanded into Asia, with its second edi on in November 2014, and the fi rst edi- on of OUTLOOK™ Plus La n America in Sao Paulo, Brazil

in March 2015, the nonwoven personal care and hygiene industries (and a broader industry focus in Brazil), regard-less of loca on, have the support of a world-leading event to both meet and get informed about those topics and issues essen al to its development.

The next edi on of OUTLOOK™ will take place in Athens, Greece, from the 23rd to the 25th September, 2015. Details about the loca on and booking forms for the hotel will be posted to the EDANA website : www.edana.org

POST SHOW REPORT


38 TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014www.textilevaluechain.com

S B , Assistant Professor ,Department of Tex le Technology.

Shri Vaishnav Ins tute of Technology and Science, INDORE

A K Director , U ar Pradesh Tex le Technology Ins tute ,

Kanpur

ABSTRACTDyes can be derived from nature through herbs and

plants fl owers, seeds, barks and roots. Natural dyes give the subter, rich warm colors that are unique combina ons.. Nat-ural dyes can be categorized as either substan ve or adjec- ve. Substan ve dyes (also known as direct dyes) such as

Indigo lichens or Walnut hulls affi x to the fi ber without the aid of another chemical or addi ve. Adjec ve (also known as mordant dyes) require a fi xa ve, generally a metal salt, to present the color from washing or bleaching out.

K : N , ,

1 IToday in the world of growing environmental conscious-

ness, natural colorants have a racted in the a en on of ev-eryone. The art of dyeing with vegetable dyes has gained at-ten on not only from the safety point of view but it is good for health and environment also having experienced quality of novelty and beauty.(1)(2)

The Importance of color in tex le products cannot be under es mated prior to the advent of synthe c dyes in 1856, all coloring ma ers were extracted from naturally available goods. The Inven on of synthe c dyes almost lim-ited the use of vegetable dyes to specifi c fabric only such as kalamkari, hand printed tex les etc (Katyayini VKLT and Dr. Jacob Mary 1998).(3)(4)(5) The globe has been facing the serious environmental pollu on over a long period of me which eventually has turned the social atmosphere back to the mother nature. This entails the need for study and inter-est in natural dyes performed were the pigment analysis on the old fashioned tradi onal fabrics dyed in natural agents or the work on natural colorized pigments applicable to dye. The natural dyes have with unique characteris cs, viz mild, sta c deep feel having the capability to express many kinds of hues and chronora according to diff erent mordents and rela vely less amount of disposal water, when compared to those of synthe c dyes (Bae, Soon-Ei 2009).(6)(7) Natural dyeing is an age old prac ce. It was the result of the quest of man for coloring ma er from natural sources such as plants and animals. But most of natural dyes do not fi x permanent-ly to the fi bers and less they are used with chemicals called ‘mordants’. Also with the use of mordants a range of colors can be obtained with the same dye material (Singh Jeet, S.S. Yadav S. & Gaba. G. 2003).

Up to the middle of the 19th century, only natu-ral dyes were available. In 1856, W.H. Perkins accidentally discovered aniline dye, and synthe c dyes slowly began re-placing natural dyes. From Perkin’s discovery of Mauveine in 1856 to the turn of the century, hardly a year passed with-out the issue of a new patent for a synthe c dye.

Natural dyes are environment-friendly, for example, turmeric the brightest of naturally occurring Yellow dyes is powerful an sep c which revitalizes the skin, while Indigo gives a cooling sensa on, many researches and industrial-ist have shown that synthe c dye are suspected to release harmful chemicals that are allergic, carcinogenic and detri-mental to human health.(12)

2 I N DColor had played a dominant in life of human beings

since mes immemorial. In the prehistoric mes natural colorants were the only source available for impar ng col-or to the life of man. The ancestors of the human ac vi es witnessed unrivalled mastery in innova ve applica on tech-niques as evident from the works of classical an quity. In-dustrial revolu on caused chemistry to play a predominant role in off ering various synthe c dyestuff s to the tex le in-dustry and novel techniques of applying them. The advent of synthe c dyes almost limited the use of vegetable dyes for more than a century in the last decade. The use of syn-the c dyestuff during their applica on has been cri zed due to the introduc on of contaminants into the environment. At present, the tex le industry in many developing countries is facing the tremendous impact of famous German ban on 118 specifi ed azo dyes and 20 carcinogenic aryl amides in-cluding Benzedine. The need to preserve environment has led to the revival of old prac ce of colora on with natural dyestuff s due to the carcinogenic nature of some synthet-ic dyes and their intermediates(13). Natural colorants are more compa ble with the environment on account of bet-ter biodegradability and can be considered as one of the safe alterna ve over many hazardous synthe c dyes. The limita on associated with the natural dyes is that the tradi- onal processes for their applica on on various substrates

have been lost in the absence of proper documenta on and years of neglect. It becomes therefore necessary to develop new methodology of coloring and also to standardize these techniques with the help of modern scien fi c inputs so that these dyes can replace the current synthe c dyes.(14)

With present na onal and interna onal awareness of environment situa on and the use of eco-friendly fi bers and natural dyes has been increasing all over the globe. Looking from the angle of na onal health, it is not possible to ignore the fact that the most synthe c fi bers and synthe c dyes are non-biodegradable and many of the chemicals used for their manufacturing are hazardous from health point of view. Be-cause of the drawbacks of using synthe c materials people are rever ng back to natural dyes and natural fi bers espe-cially for co on. Most of natural dyes not fi x permanently to the fi bers without mordants, mordant help in the dye to get absorbed. Also with the use of mordants a range of col-ors obtained with the same dye materials. A variety of these shades depends on the nature of mordant, its concentra- on, dye and substrate used. Mordants may or may not be

colored, their sole use is due to their capacity to precipitate the coloring ma er on the fabric.(15) Natural dyes derived from plant sources on the other hand are non-toxic and bio-degradable. These dyes from natural sources do not poses effl uent problems. For these reasons, the research inves ga- on carried out throughout the world has steadily increased

to iden fy, and extract natural colorants and use them for dyeing tex le fi bers. Our interest in the iden fi ca on of the dye from plant sourc es have shown that Onion skin (Allium

NATURAL DYES AN OVER VIEWTECHNICAL


39TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014www.textilevaluechain.com

cepa) Belonging to the family Liliaceae and second source namely Mango Bark (Mangifera Indica), a yellowish brown dye is used for co on is extracted from the barks so that Mangifera Indica bark and Onion skin were used in dyeing co on material.(16)

Today natural dyes have become essen al need of every person because natural dyes are more relevant worldwide in the context of increasing environment consciousness. However, all the natural dyes are not essen ally non-tox-ic, through most of them are proved to be non-toxic and eco-friendly.

Besides eco-friendliness, natural dyes have many more technical advantages, including their uncommon and sooth-ing shades. In spite of all the present interna onal consump- on of natural dyes never shades on co on material, dyed

with extract of natural dye obtained from Onion Skin and Mango Bark combina on.

3 N D Diff erent fi bers absorb color diff erently. Protein fi bers

like wool and silk readily takes dyes. Bast Fibers like linen, rayon, hemp and co on are more resistant to taking dyes. Proper mordan ng, however a sure that the dye will hold part. The basic of any chemical reac on hold true for dyeing. Time, temperature and concentrate and grater concentra- ons will generally result in more intense colors.

Natural dyes considering the toxic eff ects of the syn-the c dyes there has been a renewed eff orts to study and implement the various natural dyes in the dyestuff industry primarily there are three categories of natural dyes fi rstly that are derived from plants like Indigo, second the ones that are obtained from animal sources called cochineal and those that are got from minerals (ocher).

Natural dyes can provide the much heard alterna ve to the complex world of chemical dyes. There is a whole va-riety of plants which can be used to make plant dye. Dif-ferent parts of plants are used to make dyes: for example the leaves, the skin of fruit, the bark, roots or wood, when you pick a plant for making dye, collect seeds and then plant them, so that more plants will grow. • Natural dyes are non-hazardous and

non-toxic.• 100% safe for you and the environment, these exci ng

eco-friendly natural dyes are concerned, inter-mixable and provides all the color possibili es of natural dyes with the ease and convenience of chemical dyes with-out the hazards.(17)Natural dyes are a class of colorants extracted from

vegeta ve mater and animal residues. They can be broken down into the following categories:

Natural vegetable dyes have become a part of hu-man life since me immemorial Egyp an mummies, doc-uments of Mughal periods etc. bear tes mony to the use of these dyes. These natural dyes obtained from natural resources, are non pollutant, non allergic, shade rich and warm. With the introduc on of synthe c dyes in the mid-dle oh the 19th century, the use of natural dyes was on the wane. But due to several pollu on problems posed by syn-the c dye the world is once again veering round to natural dyes. In the recent pass, the demand for natural dyes has

increased tremendously. Use of natural dyes in colora on of tex le materials is just one of the consequences of increased environmental awareness. Natural dyes are being preferred over the synthe c dyes because they exhibit be er biode-gradability and compa bility with the environment. Also the dyes obtained from natural sources do not posses the dan-ger of allergic reac on and are non-toxic in nature, so this present study is being conducted on natural dyes.

4 S N D : Natural dyes obtained from plants, animals, By-prod-

ucts, and ssue or cell culture. Although some fabrics such as silk and wool can be colored simply by bling in the dye, others such as co on require a mordant. Natural dyes in the present study belong to Biodegradable pigments.

4.1 N :Many plants and some animals have been iden fi ed as

poten ally rich in natural dye contents and some of them have been used for natural dyeing for quite some me. Vari-ous parts of plants like roots, stems, barks, leaves, fruits and seeds may contain coloring ma er which can be exploited. Normally natural dyes are extracted from the roots, stems, leaves, fl owers, fruits of various plants. Some plants may have more than one color depending upon which part of the plant one uses the shade of the color plant produces will vary according to me of the year the plant is picked, how it was grown, soil condi ons etc. The minerals in the wa-ter used in a dye bath can also alter the color. Some natural dyes contain natural mordants.

Many natural dyestuff and stains were obtained mainly from plants and dominated as sources of natural dyes. Pro-

Categories of Natural dyes

Colors Chemical classifi ca on

Common names

Yellow andBrown

Flavone dyes Weld Quercitron, fus c osage, chamomile, tesu, dolu, marigold

Yellow Iso-quinoline dyes

Barbery

OrangeYellow

Chromene dyes

Kamala

Brown and purple grey

Naphthoquinone dyes

Henna, walnut, alkanet, pi

Red Anthraquinone dyes

Lac, cochineal, madder

Purple and black

Ben Zophyrone dyes

Logwood

Blue Indigoid dyes Indigo

Neutrals Vegetable tannis: gallotannis, ellagitannis and eatechol tannis

Wa le, myrobalyn, pomegranate, sumach, chest-nut, eucalyp-tus.

NATURAL DYES AN OVER VIEW TECHNICAL


40 TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014www.textilevaluechain.com

ducing diff erent colors like red, yellow, blue, black, brown and a combina on of these. Almost all parts of the plants like root, bark, leaf, fruit, wood, seed and fl ower etc. pro-duce dyes. It is interes ng to note that over2000 pigments are synthesized by various parts of plants, of which only about 150 have been commercially exploited. Nearly 450 taxa are known to yield dyes in India alone, of which 50 are considered to be the most important; ten of these are from roots, four from barks, fi ve from leaves, seven from fl owers, seven from fruits, three from seeds, eight from wood and three from gums and resins. (Siva R. 2007).

The increasing market demand for dyes and the dwin-dling number of dye-yielding plants forced the emergence of synthe c dyes like aniline and coal-tar, which threatened total replacement of natural dyes. Even today, some dyes con nue to be derived from natural sources, for example- dyes for lips ck are s ll obtained from Bixa Orellana L. and Lithospermum erthrorhizon sieb and Zucc and those for eye shadow from Indigo.(18)

4.2 N :Cochineal is a brilliant red dye produced from insects

living on cactus plants. The proper es of the cochineal bug were discovered by pre-columbian Indians, who dried the female insects under the sun, and then ground the dried bodies to produce a rich red powder. When mixed with wa-ter, the powder produced a deep, vibrant red color. Cochi-neal is s ll harvested today on the Canary Islands. In fact, most cherries today have a bright red appearance through the ar fi cial color ‘carmine’ which is obtained from the co-chineal insect.

4.3 B - ( ):The lac industry gives lac dye as a by-product, which

is extracted from the effl uent similarly, from Cassia Tora, used in gum manufacturing; a brown dye is obtained as a by-product.

4.4 T DNA -:

Certain fungi such as Drechslera and Trichoderma pro-duce anthraquinone deriva ves as secondary metabolites. As anthraquinones are a very important class of dyes, ex-ploi ng the fungi would be advantageous over their chem-ical synthesis, if gene c modifi ca ons can be achieved, it is possible to develop fungi that produce subs tuted anthra-quinones.

5. E - N D :In recent years, s lot of awareness and concern has de-

veloped over the environmental issues of tex les wet pro-cessing. The pollu on control board has become more strict on the implementa on of the pollu on control act. This has brought a lot of environmental pressure on the tex le in-dustry.W

Environmental awareness throughout the world now seems to rescue the total ‘Fall’ of natural dyes. Hazards of chemical industries and dyes in par cular have forced en-vironmentalists to think in terms of natural products. Trend of greater uses of synthe c subs tutes of natural substanc-

es have been reserved. This actually started when people throughout the world in general and west in par cular pre-ferred pure co on clothes and dress material in place of clothes made from synthe c yarn.

Worldwide growing consciousness for use of eco-friend-ly products in daily life has generated renewed interest of consumers towards use of tex les from natural fi bers dyed with eco-friendly natural dyes. However, all the natural dyes are not essen ally non-toxic, though most of them are proved to be non-toxic and eco-friendly. (EM Dedhia 1998).

Besides eco-friendliness, natural dyes have many more technical advantages, including their uncommon and sooth-ing shades. The ancient art of natural dyeing was near-ly lost when synthe c dyes were introduced to the global market. Natural dyes are being received with the increase of environmental awareness. Eco-friendly natural dyes are non-hazardous and non-toxic, hundred percent safe for the people and the environment, these exci ng eco-friendly natural dyes with the ease and inter-mixable and provides all the color possibili es of natural dyes with the ease and convenience of chemical dyes without the hazardous.(17)(18)(19)

The so-called ‘green’ tex les have become elite prod-ucts in the developed world, with the organic co on indus-try as a major leader in the process. However, more and more dyeing and tannery units are being forced to stop their ac vi es, due to their pollu ng produc on process. The colors of natural concentrates on that aspects of vege-table dyeing which is environmentally friendly for instance, the water coming from the dyeing is fi rst before being re-turned to nature-treated via an effl uent treatment and plant moreover, the unit uses a fermenta on process which is the most environmentally sound process for Indigo dyeing. It consumes less water than other Indigo dyeing methods: No fi xing agents are required and the process doesn’t use hy-drosulphite.

By reviewing this method, the colors of nature shows that environmentally friendly Indigo dyeing for industrial purposes (Medium bulk) is possible.

6 C / C N D :A dye can be defi ned as a highly colored substance used

to import color to an infi nite variety of materials like tex- les, paper, wood, varnishes, leather, ink, fur, foodstuff , cos-

me cs, medicine, toothpaste etc. As far as the chemistry of dyes is concerned a dye molecule has two principle chemi-cal groups, viz. chromophores and auxochromes. The chro-mophore, usually an aroma c ring, is associated with the coloring property, it has unsaturated bonds such as –C=C, =C=O, -C-S, -C-NH, -CH=N-, -N=N- and –N=O, whose number decides the intensity of the color. The auxochrome helps the dye molecule to combine with the substrate, thus impar ng color to the la er.(18)(20)

7. B N :

Natural dyes work best with natural fi bers such as cot-ton, linen, wool, silk, jute, ramie and sisal. Among these

NATURAL DYES AN OVER VIEWTECHNICAL


41

wool takes up dyes most easily followed by co on, linen, silk and then the coarse fi bers such as sisal and jute. Nearly all of them require some sort of a mordant. The trick is to choose the right dye from the right source that gives not only beau ful tones, but colorfast shade as well.

The Chemistry of bonding of dyes to fi ber is complex. It involves direct bonding, H-bonds and hydro-phobic interac- ons mordants help binding of dyes to fabric by forming a

chemical bridge from dye to fi ber, thus improving the stain-ing ability of a dye along with increasing is fastness proper- es. Mordants form insoluble compounds of the dye within

the fi ber. The presence of func onal groups in suitable posi- ons in the dye molecule causes its coordina on to the met-

al ion. Generally, two hydroxyl groups or a hydroxyl group with a carbonyl, nitrose or azo group in adjacent posi ons are responsible for coordina on. The mordant dyes produce a wide range of hues of remarkable resistance to wet treat-ments, but the shade lack brilliancy.

An example is the chromium – alizarin complex. A chro-mium ion can combine with alizarin by covalency and co-or-dinate valency to form the ‘Lake”. Chromium, being trivalent, combines with three molecules of alizarin. The fi bers made of proteins, such as wool as silk, retain the dye through hy-drogen bonding between the polypep de linkages and the dye. An example of alizarin is given to show the nature of bonding with Nylon-6, which also has pep de linkages.

8. M N A mordant is an element which aids the chemical reac-

on that takes place between the natural dye and the fi ber, so that the dye absorbed. Mordants were o en required to alter the hue and intensity of natural dyes and improve their color fastness. The word ‘mordant’ is derived from the La n word mordent which means to bite. Mordants are the min-erals salts added to the fi bers to help the dye adhere. Many dyes will adhere to the fi bers without mordants but you lim-it your range of colors and fastness of your eyes. Historically, dyers used everything from a copper or aluminum pot to stale urine to mordant their fi bers. Today, we prefer to use more reliable and consistent mordants will use with vary the range of colors get from any one dye stuff .

There are many op ons for mordan ng fi bers. The most frequently and easily used are alum or n mordants. Even these less toxic mordants should be kept sealed and in a locked place away from children and pets. Reserve some of fi bers to dye without the addi on of the mordant. Af-ter-baths with n, vinegar, or baking soda may also be de-sirable to achieve a broader degree of colors. An a er bath is done a er the fi bers are rinsed. Containers other than glass or stainless steel may also be used and the metals from which they are made may be employed to exert an infl uence on the ul mate color of the dye in the form of a mordant.

Mordants are substances of organic or inorganic origin which combine with the coloring ma er and are used to fi x the same in the produc on of color. For the purpose of this class, such materials as oils and sulfonated oils, soaps, fats and higher acids, are not generally considered as mordants, but as coming within the sope of “assistants” in dyeing. The mordant substances include such acids as tannic acid, gall nuts, bark extracts, oleic and stearic acids, and Turkey red oil and metallic substances such as various combina ons or

soluble salts of chromium, aluminum, iron, copper and n. The la er the metallic mordants, are more used than the acid mordants. Mordants improve the fastness of the dye on the fi ber such as water, light and perspira on fastness. The choice of mordant is very important as diff erent mordants can change the fi nal color signifi cantly.

D -

• Iron (Ferrous sulphate): Ferrous sulphate FeSO4 is a greenish powder that dissolves to make a rusty – col-ored liquid. Iron produces dark, dull colors that are fast. Iron used in excess on wool will weaken the fi bers and causes yarns and fabric to wear out prematurely.

• Aluminum sulphate: Aluminum sulphate Al2 (SO4)3 commonly called alum. Alum is a white powder that is safe for hands and easy to use. Alum produces bright shades and gives rela vely good light fastness. It is used in excess, alum will make wool feel s ckly. If an alumi-num pan is used it will contribute to the brightness of the color, but will not guarantee the color fastness.

• Potassium dichromate: Bright orange crystals known as potassium dichromate make a bright orange solu on. Exposed to light, this solu on becomes unstable, so it should be kept with a lid on the container and not ex-posed to light. Chrome gives good bright colors that are very fast and gives wools a so texture.

• Potassium dichromate K2Cr2O7 is a common inorgan-ic chemical reagent, most commonly used as oxidizing agent in various laboratory and industrial applica ons. As with all hexavalent chromium compounds, it is po-ten ally harmful to health and must be handled and dis-posed of appropriately. It is a crystalline ionic solid with a very bright, red-orange color.

• Copper sulphate: Use copper sulphate CuSO4, a beau -ful blue color when dissolved in water. Copper darkness colors and gives a greenish cast. It provides good col-or-fastness and is not as hard on fi bers as iron. A solid copper pot (if aff ordable) will make an excellent copper mordant.C - The world society of colourist emphasizes their role of

work to popularize the use of eco-friendly and natural dye-ing procedures. They want to save our environment from di-sastrous and harmful eff ect of toxic chemical dyes and other ingredients. Many of the research ins tutes and agriculture universi es are involved for minimizing the level of chem-icals . Which is con nuously fl owing in the diff erent water storing sources and pollu ng to the drinking water.Process-ing waste from the dye houses can also be minimized with op mizing the process parameters.In place of using the haz-ardous and toxic chemicals, use of enzyma c and natural treatments should be marke sed and papularised for the world safety.

10 REFERENCE

1. Pant Suman(April 1999) Natural Dyeing of Wool. The Indian Tex- le Journal, pp 50-55

2. Patel B. H., AgrawaL B.J.and Patel H.M.(January 2003) Novel padding techniques for dyeing babool dyeing on co on , Colorage pp 21-26.

3. Radhika D. and Jacob M (April 1999) Dye from jatropha seed. The

NATURAL DYES AN OVER VIEW TECHNICAL

42

AD

VT.

43


44

Indian Tex le Journal pp30-35.4. Singh Jeet ,S.S. Yadav and Gaba G. (January 2003) . Eff ect of

mordan ng method on dye Absorp on of Natural Dye extracted from reinwardita fl owers and neem leaves on wool , Colorage, pp27-30.

5. Sharma Neetu and Jahan Shahnaz(January 2003) Dyeing wool by combina on of Natural Dyes obtained from Onian Skin and kilmora roots , Colorage ,pp 43-44.

6. Verma Chhaya and Mrs. Venkatachalam Vijaylaxmi (August 2002) . Eff ect of Mordants on Mango bark dye for dyeing of Jute , co on union fabric , Colorage pp 49-54.

7. Gulrajani M.L and Rustogi D. and Gupta P. ”Applica on of lac dye on ca onised co on“. “Conven on on natural dyes”. Department of Tex le Technology IIT DELHI 1999.

8. Gupta d, Dyeing with natural dyes- Theory and prac ce , In Nat-ural dyes , Conven on proceedings by D.Gupta and M L Gulrajani (Eds), Department of Tex le Technology, IIT Delhi, 17-18 Decem-ber 2001.

9. Webster’s, New world, college dic onary 4th edi on by Michael Agnes, Editor in chief. pp 86 and pp799.

10. V P Kapoor, K Ka yar, P Pushpagandan and N Singh, Development of natural dye based Sindoor. Na onal Botanical Research Ins -tute, Lucknow (u.p) India. Amity Ins tue for Herbal and Biotech Development, Thycand, Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala, India.

11. Lokhande H.T. and Naik Sandeep R. “Ban on dyes and ecological

approach”. The Indian Tex le Journal, January 2007, pp 30-3512. Cha opadhyay D P, Eff ect of mordants and mordan ng tech-

niques on Dyeing of jute and co on with Adula, manmade Text India, 1997, 40(9),361-369.

13. Nimkar u and bhajekar R, Ecological requirements for tex le industry , colour age (Suppl.) 2006,43(4),135-142

14. Sachan K and Kapoor V P,op miza on of extrac on and dyeing condi ons for tradi onal turmeric dye, Indian J Trad knowledge 2007, 6(2),270-278.

15. The chemistry of synthe c dyes and pigments by H A Lubs.16. www.naturalpigments.com17. Paul R., Jayesh MV and Naik SR, classifi ca on, Extrac on and

fastness proper es, Text Dyer Print, 1996,31(6),16-2418. www.paradisefi bers.net 19. Chemistry of dyes and principles of Dyeing ( 2nd revised edi on

1983) pp 610.20. Neelam Pruthi , Geeta D Chawla and Saroj Yadav. Dyeing of silk

with barberry bark dye using mordant combina on, Department of Clothing and Tex le, College of home science, Hissar, Haryana, India. Natural product radiance, vol. 7(1),2008, pp 40-44.

21. Sharma A, Bansal A and Sood A, Applica on of apricot leaf dye on wool and co on yarns using combina on of mordants, Text India programmes, July 2005, pp 19-20.

NATURAL DYES AN OVER VIEW

SHILP KATHAON 2014

TECHNICAL

POST SHOW REPORT

The fashion department at Symbiosis Ins tute of Design put up its annualCra Sustenance ini a ve tled Shilp Kath-aon 26 - 27 September, 2014.

The ins tu onal objec ve of this event is to conserve and bring about a product diversifi ca on of heritage Indian cra s. Keeping in mind that India has such a rich cra cul-ture spanning all areas of cra s such as wood, metal, tex le, leather and many more, the scope of this ini a ve was ex-tended to include both tex le and non-tex le cra s of India.

The cra s covered this year are Gujarat – Roghan paint-ing, Rajasthan - Lehariya, U arakhand – Ne le Cra , Karna-taka - Kasu , U ar Pradesh- Chikankari, Karnataka – Kinnal toys, Orissa ¬– Soara pain ngs and Ganjappa cards, Andhra Pradesh – Cherial pain ng and Rajasthan – Molela les. The students had been to these diff erent states, met the cra s-men and got acquainted with the cra s. This research was documented and then applied to conceptualize and develop products. Garments / products were designed and devel-oped by the students of Fashion Design and Fashion Com-munica on worked on styling, brand iden ty and conceptu-aliza on of the exhibi on.

An exhibi on of the works of the students displaying garments as well as products developed using these cra s was put up. They also invited ar sans from these places to par cipate in this exhibi on thus providing them an oppor-tunity to increase awareness of their cra s as well as to in-crease their visibility.

This year they also hosted a Cra Film Fes val in collab-ora on with ‘Aadhar – Heritage Film Fes val’, Ahmedabad.

Ms Judy Frater, founder director of somaya kala Vidya, graced this event as the chief guest.


45

Addressing the ongoing demand for the disposable hygiene products namely feminine hygiene products, baby diapers, adult incon nence products, nappy pads, etc., BCH suc-cessfully conducted a technical symposium - How to Make the ‘Right’ Disposable Hygiene Product? on the 10th of September 2014 at Leela Palace hotel in Chankyapuri, New Delhi.

BCH along with a consor um of interna onal compa-nies which mainly cons tuted either machine manufactur-ers or raw material suppliers such as Avery Dennison, Curt G. Joa, Fibertex Personal Care, Fulfl ex, Henkel, Op ma, Os-prey and Sandvik, presented to India’s business community the right way forward. At a me when the Indian manufac-turer is ready to grab every opportunity to feed a growing demand, it becomes quintessen al to know about advanced technologies and important prerequisites for decision mak-ing which were very well talked aloud openly during the pre-senta ons.

What was par cularly interes ng in this symposium was the impressive presence of more than 100 a endees which comprised of manufacturers (convertors) of feminine hy-giene products, baby diapers & adult incon nence products as well as the new and aspiring entrants, who were eager to hear about the latest developments in this sector and un-derstand the ‘wrongs’ and the ‘rights’ that may take place. To name a few, there was representa on from Procter & Gamble, SCA, Unicharm, Nobel Hygiene, Emami, HLL Life-care and many more noteworthy established companies of India. Further highlights of this event included the much talked about award ceremony, the panel discussion on ‘2020 and beyond’ and the cocktail evening which off ered a great opportunity to network in a relaxed atmosphere.

The symposium ended on a very visionary note with a panel discussion amongst the dis nguished speakers and the audience. The emphasis was to discuss the future of the disposable hygiene industry of India and its upcoming future trends. All were enthusias c enough to wear their thinking caps and discuss the future of this exci ng industry in In-dia from 2020 and beyond. The most discussed issue was how the Indian industry will address the sustainability fac-tor in the near future and all the specula ve ideas were put forward regarding how the products and processes would

evolve in the coming mes. One major highlight of the event was the award cere-

mony. Stalwarts of this Industry in India were felicitated with a hear elt applause during the event. The awards were pre-sented by eminent personali es from this industry. Mr. Samir Gupta, Managing Director of BCH personally addressed the awardees for their outstanding performance and signifi cant contribu on to this dynamic absorbent hygiene industry of India. The four awards announced were as follows: 1. Social Responsibility – Best Prac ces – This award went

to Bella Premier Happy Hygiene Care Pvt. Ltd. and was received by Ms. Agnieszka Wronkowska, Sales & Mar-ke ng Director for India.

2. Best Indian Private Label Ini a ve – This award went to Nobel Hygiene Ltd. and was received by Mr. Kamal Johari, Managing Director.

3. Market Leaders in Quality – This award went to Procter & Gamble Hygiene & Health Care Limited and was re-ceived by Mr. Amaranna Angadi , Manager – Produc- on.

4. Market Evolu on through Product Diff eren a on and Innova ve Marke ng Strategies – This award went to Unicharm India Pvt. Ltd. and was received by Mr. Yukihi-ro Kimura, Managing Director.The tabletop exhibi on which was held in a separate

hall off ered a unique business opportunity for par cipants to see displays of the talked about products and off erings and casually network amongst the gathering. For further strengthening of decisions and to generate a posi ve feeling for exis ng and new investments in this fi eld, the breaks and the cocktail evening off ered a great opportunity for one to one knowledge dissemina on in a relaxed atmosphere .

As the manufacturing and sale of these products is ma-jorly being infl uenced in the country, the inquisi veness of the Indian businesses to explore this growing segment is evident from the developments that have taken place in the last few years. The idea of forging partnerships was launched to a new industry through the earlier symposiums organized by BCH on disposable hygiene products in 2006 & 2008 and with the outcome of this symposium BCH plans to feed the need of this industry through many more ini a ves in the coming years.

POST SHOW REPORTHOW TO MAKE THE ‘RIGHT’ DISPOSABLE HYGIENE PRODUCT? TECHNICAL SYMPOSIUM

46


47


48

POST SHOW REPORTPRODUCT RANGE IMPRESSES BUYERS

AT YARNEX AND TEXINDIA

The recently concluded twin shows Yarnex- India Inter-na onal Yarn Exhibi on and TexIndia- Tex le Sourcing Fair at Tirupur, set new records this year with a record 3,424 vis-itors not only from even the remotest tex le manufacturing and trade hubs of India, but also from countries as diverse as Brazil, China, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Japan, Mauri- us, Morocco, Nigeria, Peru, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, Sri

Lanka, Thailand, United Kingdom, United States of America, amongst others. This marked a 25 percent increase com-pared to the previous edi on. On the exhibitors’ side, nearly 115 suppliers from all over the country took part, besides a special overseas con ngent from Italy, UK, Hong Kong and China displaying their latest and innova ve products.

“The increase in both exhibitor and visitor fi gures from all across the country and the world confi rms that Yarnex and TexIndia have grown out of the regional context and these shows are the best pla orm to take advantage of the growing poten al in this region,” said Mr P. Krishnamurthy, CEO and Execu ve Director, S S Tex le Media Pvt Ltd, Banga-lore, organizers of these events.

Exhibitors expressed immense sa sfac on with the range of buyers who were present, a vast majority of them decision makers. “We par cipated at Yarnex fi ve years ago; our customer base then was just two or three. Now it has grown to 120. Our sales have gone up from 10 – 15 tons a year to 50 tons now. Thanks to Yarnex. This is a great pla orm where manufacturers, dealers and buyers can sit together and take forward developing new products as a challenge. We got a lot of inquiries at this show with many for exports. I feel we are going to open a new line of business i.e. exports

because of this show,” said an elated Mr Vipul Rastogi, Tech-nical Director, Flora Dyeing House (P) Ltd, New Delhi.

“We have been a end-

ing this show the last four years and at each show we are able to capture more customers. The show also gives us an opportunity to meet buyers and under-stand their requirements. In turn, they also learn about our new launches and what we have to off er. We are here with our top management in full force. When the senior manage-ment is present, it makes it easier to take the leads forward. We could meet around 300 buyers at this show, and even if we are able to do business with just 10 percent of them, it would be great. We hope to be here at Yarnex in a bigger way next year!, said MrHardikSemlani, Regional Sales Man-

ager, Trident Group, Ludhiana.For Maurizio Colzani, Export Sales, Linifi cio E Canapi-

fi cioNazionale S.R.L, Italy, is a newcomer to India and was quite sa sfi ed with the visitors who came to his stall. “We are new in the Indian market having come here only a year ago. We produce linen yarn and we thought we’d par cipate in Yarnex to get in touch with the local companies. It has improved our penentra on and contacts in the new mar-ket mainly with local kni ers from in and around Tirupur, as well as other parts of India. Even manufacturers of fur-nishings and home tex les, besides apparel manufacturers visited our stall. India is a poten ally growing market as far as linen yarn is concerned and we look forward to develop-ing it and establishing a presence here through exhibi ons like Yarnex.”

Mr Michael Rodriques, General Manager (Fabric), Col-orsburg (Div. of Shakthi Kni ng Ltd.), Tirupur:

“The show has been really be er this me. Lots of foot-falls and all good quality buyers. In fact, my visitors’ book is already full. There were buying houses and garment manu-facturers and also interna onal buyers from Mauri us and France as well. We have already lined up appointments over the week with some of the poten al buyers we met at this show.”

“The show is good with worthy buyers and poten al customers visi ng our stall,” said Mr Rajesh Mathur, Direc-tor, Sri Sri Interna onal, Ludhiana. “We could meet over 200 new clients and many showed keen interest to work with us. They said, earlier, they would have to source these kinds of products from China and now were happy to discover a new source here in India itself.”

“Before coming to Tirupur, I thought this was a market for economically priced products,” said MrAlok Raj, Direc-tor, Elegant Bu ons (P) Ltd, New Delhi. “But that perspec- ve has changed a er coming to this show. There was a lot

of interest in the kinds of shell bu ons we made. We even got leads from places like Bangalore and Chennai. It’s been great show for us with around 600 buyers having visited our stall.”

Besides the exhibitors, buyers too were sa sfi ed, especially with the quality of ven-dors and the product range on off er. “The show is keeping in with the latest trends,” said Mr Vijay Joshi, Manager, Karthik Tex les, Ichalkaranji. “The trend is to-


49

wards value addi on and this will stay on at least for the next fi ve years. I met a couple of new exhibitors especially for the fancy yarn range we were looking for.”

Mr G. Kishore, Manager, Sky Trading Corpora on, Chen-nai, said: “Informa on I had no access to, I got it here. The products on display helped me understand what is best suit-ed for my kind of products. I even found a par cular machin-ery I was looking for at Yarnex, something which I could not fi nd elsewhere!”

“A really exci ng show,” Ms Aurelia Esiri, Owner, Ret-ta-Dote Ltd, South Africa said about TexIndia. “We gained a lot of knowledge about the fabrics available here. We were looking for business contacts and we did fi nd them here. I have taken swatches from them and will be contac ng soon with a hope of doing business with these companies in In-dia.”

Mr Prabhu Damodharan, Director, FuturGen, Tirupur noted: “We are a buying house represen ng companies in Bangladesh, Hong Kong, Canada, USA, Poland, Spain, etc. I got a good idea about the new trends in fabrics at this show. There were mul ple op ons available and there were no

price contradic ons. It is quite an impressive show. Keep it up, it’s awesome!”

The ambience, the professionalism and the wide range of new developments like the new varie es of mélange yarn, fancy yarn, metal yarn, eco-friendly yarn, fi bers from Lycra and Reliance Industries, fl eece fabrics, ne ed fabrics, etc. at the twin shows were well appreciated.

Yarnex and TexIndiawas inaugurated by PadmashreeDr A. Sakthivel, President, Tirupur Exporters’ Associa on along with other dignitaries. He said: Iam quite impressed with the kind of new developments Tirupur is being exposed to with shows like Yarnex and TexIndia. It is the need of the hour for Tirupur to upgrade.” He made special men on of the stainless steel yarn and its func ons manufactured in China on display at the show, as also about the new varie es of fancy, metallic and linen yarn.

The three-day event ran through September 9 - 11 at the India Knit Fair Complex in Tirupur.

POST SHOW REPORT

POST SHOW REPORT

PRODUCT RANGE IMPRESSES BUYERS AT YARNEX AND TEXINDIA

GLOBAL GEOSYNTHETICS SUMMIT BY CII

Asia is the future of Geosynthe cs: Dr George Koerner. • 6 billion USD global market for Geosynthe cs• Largely consump on at US and Europe, however with its

current 16% market share, Asia will be the future.Confedera on of Indian Industry, CII jointly with Indian

Technical Tex le Associa on, ITTA and supported by Offi ce of Tex le Commissioner, Ministry of Tex les, Government of India & iNDEXTb, Government of Gujarat has organized Global Geosynthe cs Summit towards ‘Enhancing the appli-ca on of Geosynthe cs in Infrastructure Sector’.

Mr Kunjal Patel, Chairman, CII Gujarat State Council & Vice-Chairman & Managing Director, Voltamp Transformers Limited, delivered the welcome address and gave a broad overview of Geosynthe cs in the area of Infrastructure. He acknowledged the support of Government of Gujarat for CII to set up of Gujarat Knowledge Applica on & Facilita on Centre, GKAFCand highlighted its long term approach in enhancing the applica on of Geosynthe cs. He welcomed the dis nguished speakers from USA, Philippines & United Kingdom and Indian experts from various organiza ons and par cipants fromvarious Ministries and Government de-partments from central and state.

A CII GKAFC- ITTA report on Geosynthe cs has been re-leased, which would serve as a ready reckoner for all the stakeholders.

Dr George Koerner, Director, TheGeosynthe c Ins tute, USA highlighted the global market scenario of Geosynthet-ics. He advised that for an accelerated adop on of Geosyn-the cs – it is important to have • generic specifi ca ons for both Centre and State,• packaged technology (design, build and supply)• target distributors and partnership with large ins tu-

ons.

Also for realizing the benefi ts, he shared the below as the key parameters:• good design, • quality materials, • tes ng and cer fi ca on, • installa on, • quality assurance, • performance test prior to commissioning

There are huge ongoing eff orts by agencies such as GSI, GRI, ASTM, ISO, BAM and US-EPA, etc. towards standards and regula ons.

L-R: Dr Chandan Cha erjee, Advisor Project & Technology, iNDEXTb, Government of Gujarat; Dr George Koerner, Director, The Geosyn-the cs Ins tute, USA; Mr Kamal Dayani, IAS,TransportCommission-er, Government of Gujarat; Mr Kunjal Patel,Chairman - CII Guja-rat State Council &Vice Chairman & Managing Director, Voltamp Transformers Limited and Mr K S Murthy, Director & Head, Gujarat Knowledge Applica on & Facilita on Centre.


51

STANDARD FEATURES Eco-friendly Airpad system

Reduces consumption of water, steam, electricity and chemicals Variable Frequency Drive

Reduces power peaks, allows automatic stepless speed control

Adjustable Liquor Ratio Enables selection of minimum MLR for full/partial load during dyeing and ultra low MLR for subsequent washing

Safety Systems Temperature and pressure interlock Auto pressure control valve Mechanical pre-set pressure safety valve Main pump protection against dry run Interlocking of ‘Heating ON’ / main pump motor

ADDITIONAL FEATURES Pressure extraction system for better and

faster rinsing cycle

Differential pressure controller for adjusting pump speed automatically

pH monitoring system

Conductivity meter for continuous measuring / controlling TDS

Dye Kitchen Equipment

Choice

Coupling of two or more machines

Imported micro-controller that can be linked to a central management system

DALAL ENGINEERING PVT LTDWebsite : www.dalalengineering.com

REGISTERED OFFICE:36/37 Jolly Maker Chambers II,Nariman Point, Mumbai 400 021Tel. 91 22 2202 4046, 2285 0516 Fax. 91 22 2202 9278 Email : [email protected]

WORKS:Kavesar, Thane-Ghodbunder RoadThane 400 615, Maharashtra, IndiaTel. 91 22 2597 6201-04 Fax. 91 22 2597 6207Email: [email protected]

Marketed by: SAGAR GROUP OF ENTERPRISESWebsite : www.sagar-group.com

Ahmedabad: Tel 91 79 25625822-28 Email: [email protected]

Coimbatore: Tel. 91 422 4393595,3242595Email: [email protected]

Delhi: Tel: 91 120 4133 771-772 Email: [email protected]

Ludhiana: Tel: 91 93169 34758Email: [email protected] Surat: Tel: 91 9328257919 Email: [email protected]

Dyeing Technology at its Best High Quality Colouring Environmentally Friendly Process

Fully automated H.T.H.P. Dyeing Machines


52

ITMACH India, India’s much awaited tex le technology

show, is a most appropriately med event, from December 10-13, 2014, in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, as the Indian economy is fi nally poised to take off . GDP growth in the April-June quarter is the highest in the last nine quarters. Western mar-kets, which account for a dominant share of India’s tex le and clothing exports are picking up too. The momentum is expected to con nue.

ITMACH India is supported by the Govt. of Gujarat as “Principal Suppor ng State Govt.”, Industrial Extension Bu-reau (iNDEXTb) of Gujarat and leading trade Associa ons like Confedera on of Indian Tex le Industry (CITI), PDEXCIL, SRTEPC as well as trade Medias. Considering the size and re-sponse, ITMACH India is conferred by the status of pre-sum-mit event to Vibrant Gujarat 2015 to s mulate investments in Gujarat.

The government’s recently launched “Make In India” campaign, aimed at strengthening the manufacturing sec-tor, has iden fi ed tex les and clothing as one of the focus sectors for its huge employment genera on poten al. At this juncture, ITMACH India exhibi on will compliment the eff orts under “Make in India” campaign.

To briefl y summarise the targets for the next three years:• The domes c tex le and apparel industry in India is es -

mated to reach US$ 100 billion by 2016-17 from US$ 67 billion in 2013-14

• Exports of tex les and apparel from India are es mated to increase to US$ 65 billion by 2016-17 from US$ 40 billion in 2013-14

• Total fabric produc on in India is es mated to grow to 112 billion square metres by 2016-17 from 64 billion square metres in 2013-14

• India’s fi bre produc on is es mated to reach 10 million tonnes in 2016-17 from 7 million tonnes in 2013-14.

• By 2017, the country is expected to have 82 tex le parks

For these targets to be achieved, the industry is current-ly in investment mode. Investments are especially expected in the following

sectors:• En re value chain of synthe cs and co on• Value added and speciality fabrics• Fabric processing set-ups for all kind of natural and syn-

the c tex les• Technical tex les• Apparel• Retail

Recognising the immense investment and growth po-ten al of the Indian tex le and apparel industry, top tech-nology suppliers have confi rmed par cipa on in ITMACH India, the fi rst interna onal tex le machinery exhibi on of Gujarat, supported by the Government of Gujarat.

Over 250 exhibitors are expected to interact with de-cision makers of the tex le and clothing industry from all across the country, and also from other tex le manufactur-ing countries. Over 30,000 visitors are expected to visit IT-MACH India.

Interna onal Conference on `India – Opportuni es for Global Investment in Tex les’

Tex le Excellence, in associa on with Diagonal Consult-ing which is spearheaded by Dr P R Roy, will organise a 3-day interna onal conference on `India - Opportuni es for Glob-al Investment in Tex les’, from December 10-12, 2014, at Gandhinagar, Gujarat.

The conference, also supported by the Government of Gujarat and iNDEXTb, will be inaugurated by the Hon. Minis-ter of Industries, Saurabh bhai Patel. Leading stalwarts from the government and the Indian tex le and clothing industry will talk about investment opportuni es in the Indian indus-try. Top industry experts from China will deliberate on Out-look of Chinese Investment in Tex les.

Global raw material scenario with special emphasis on co on and man-made fi bres will be discussed and deliberat-ed by leading experts from the industry. Investment bankers and fi nancial analysts will share their views with the indus-try. Product mix of signifi cance for Indian tex les like shirt-ings, denims and home tex les will also be addressed during the event.

POST SHOW REPROTCOTTON USA SEMINAR SESSION 2014

PRE SHOW REPORT ITMACH INDIA COMPLIMENTS “MAKE IN INDIA” CAMPAIGN

“C : A E G T I T I ”

Co on Council Interna onal has organized an Invita- on only Seminar on September 5 at ITC Windsor, Bengalu-

ru which had off ered useful insights on the present scenario of “Co on” and Co on Tex le Industry in India. The promi-nent industry experts and decision makers from Co on Tex- le Industry had debated to create a road map how Co on

can further propel the growth in Indian Tex le Industry. In 2014, India emerged as a world’s second largest

tex le exporter, with tex les and clothing exports worth US$40.2bn, India now commands more than 5% share in the global tex le and clothing trade.

Co on has played an extremely important role in con-

tribu ng towards this robust growth , be it Co on Fibre, Co on Yarn , Co on Tex les or Apparel , all the Sectors have shown an impressive growth. In order to further this growth story, Co on Council Interna onal is organising the COTTON USA Seminar Session on 5 th September at ITC Windsor Bangalore.

The Seminar was tailored specifi cally for top decision makers in the Indian Co on Tex le Industry and features panel discussions and presenta ons on the outlook for cot-ton and co on tex le industry.

COTTON USA aims for absolute purity and brings con-sistently excellent quality and responsibility to the world of co on. For the consumer, that means a product with the COTTON USA brand mark is clean, safe and the product is


53

POST SHOW REPROTCITI CONFERENCE

a fi rst-class, high-value material produced in an environ-mentally responsible manner. Excellent quality comes from persistence and the latest technology that US Co on farm-ers use to bring out the best in nature. COTTON USA works with the best manufacturers in the world to make sure that the consumer gets a quality product with a great brand. Mr. David Collins, Senior Advisor Co on Council Interna onal would present the economic outlook on co on at the ses-sion.

Responsibility and ever-greater sustainability are im-portant to today’s consumers. Co on has an advantage in that it is a natural product. Farmers work in an environmen-tally responsible manner at every step of the process. Every single bale of U.S. co on that is shipped all around the world can be traced all the way back to its origin.

Finally, at the end of its use, our co on is renewable, recyclable, and biodegradable.

COTTON LEADS refl ects the U.S. industry’s commitment to responsible co on produc on. COTTON LEADS is built on the fi ve core principles, “Commitment, Recogni on, Un-derstanding, Belief and Confi dence” and a regulatory infra-structure that insures we can meet these principles. These principles are consistent with sustainability and use of best prac ces/traceability in the supply chain so that co on us-ers, consumers, brands, and retailers can have the confi -dence and knowledge that their raw material is responsibly produced and iden fi ed.

In 2014, American Image Awards honoured Supima as the premium fi bre brand of the Year, Mr Marc Lewkowitz, Execu ve Vice president, Supima would share his thoughts on the responsible produc on and adop ng the right man-ufacturing prac ces.

Tex le and Apparel products which are produced using premium Extra Long Staple co on are recognized by re-tailers and consumers as premium quality products. These products command premium over other products due to higher durability owing to the quality and performance of the premium co on fi bre used to develop them.It becomes utmost important to secure the supply chain for protec on

of Brand values.Mr Thomas Gladtke, Director Tex le and Apparel sales,

Applied DNA Sciences Lab would present the “Fiber Typ-ingtechnology” at the seminar session.

India holds a leadership posi on when it comes to spin-ning fi ne yarn counts, Indian Spinners have contributed more than US$4.8bn to Indian Tex le exports in Financial Year 2013-14. Indian spinners are the major consumers of ELS Co on and holds high regards globally when it comes to spinning fi ner yarn counts. Indian Spinners have to con nu-ally maintain the leadership posi on for which they need a consistent supply of good quality ELS Co on.

This Panel discussion among the elite user fraternity would try to address the current issues in regard to the avail-ability and usage of ELS Co on.

The current co on Tex les supply chain is witnessing an unprecedented shi s due to ever- increasing produc on costs, rapidly changing consumer behaviour and increasing level of social and environmental awareness. This demands a stronger and sustainable partnerships among all the stake holders of the supply chain. The Panel discussion on Creat-ing Successful partnerships in the Tex le Supply Chain” at COTTON USA Seminar session will bring together experts from each segment of the supply chain to discuss how the successful partnerships can be formed among the upstream and downstream players to propel the growth in Tex les and Clothing sector.

According to the latest global lifestyle monitor study conducted by Co on Incorporated, “Co on meets Consum-er Expecta ons”, as more than 8 in 10 shoppers in India de-scribe co on as good quality. Dr K Selvaraj, Secretary Gen-eral, The Southern India Mills Associa on will address the Importance of Co on for Indian Tex le Industry.

New channels like Ecommerce are gaining momentum and Co on products should fi nd the appropriate channels to reach its consumers. Mr Ashish Jhalani, founder member E-tailing India would present the opportunity in the apparel retail in the online medium.

CITI (Confedera on of Indian Tex le Industry ) arranged 2 days conference at 22nd & 23rd September, 2014 at Wes n Hotel, Goregaon, Mumbai. Welcome address given by Mr. Prem Malik, Chairman of CITI He welcomed Joint Sec-retary, Shri Sujit Gula , Tex le Commissioner Smt Kiran Soni Gupta, Shri B K Patodia, Past Chairman, CITI, Dr. P.Ambal-agan, Joint CEO, MIDC, otherspeakers and sponsors of this event, dis nguished guests, esteemed industry colleagues, representa ves of the media.

There is various session & Panel discussion about topic like Fibers, Global Trade, Technology & Innova on, Emerg-ing Trends in Trade, Retailing & Fashion. Eminent speakers & leaders presented paper and part of discussion. Q & A session enthralled delegates and concluded 2 days confer-ence in good posi ve note. More details you can view from : h p://www.ci india.com/atexcon/8th-atexcon-presenta- on.html

POST SHOW REPORTCOTTON USA SEMINAR SESSION 2014

54

ITMACH India SPACE BOOKING :

Arvind Semlani : Cell: +91 9833977743, Email: [email protected], [email protected]

: Cell: +91 9869185102, Email: [email protected] K S

Cell: +91 7840060123, [email protected] Kulshrestha :

“India”Opportunities for

Global Investment in Textiles

Supporting Partners: Knowledge Partners: Media Partners:

NonwovenTechnical Textile &

Excellence

INTERNATIONAL

TEXTILE MACHINERY

& ACCESSORIES

EXHIBITION

10-13, December 2014Ahmedabad

INDIA

Come to Gujarat, the state that is driving the growth of Indian Textile Industry.

the Industrialists, New Investors & Customers. Discuss business & network.Meet

the investment trends, developments and market opportunities.Discover

Discover Markets, Find New Customers

VENUE: The Exhibition Centre

Helipad Ground, Sector 17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, Indiawww.ITMACH.com

VENUE: Town Hall, Sector 17

Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India

10 - 12 December 2014

For Sponsorship & Advertisement, Contact:

Diagonal Consulting (India)

Cell: +91 9909904179Nirav Shah:

Email: [email protected]

Gujarat is Calling...

Principal Supporting State Govt.:

ITMACH India: A Pre-Summit Event To

55


56

TEXPROCIL - the mother of all EPCs and the dedicated eff orts put in by the leaders of our council in the ini al years inspired the government to create several sector specifi c EPCs.

Even many of the tex le EPCs were born out of TEXPRO-CIL. TEXPROCIL has been constantly reinven ng itself during the last 60 years to stay relevant and serve its membership objec vely. From promo ng tex le exports by crea ng the necessary posi ve image for Indian tex les, crea ng the necessary framework for building trust to managing quotas to handling post quota blues of an dumping du es to cre-a ng markets for the rapidly expanding compe ve tex le industry.

India today needs crores of new jobs to be created for unskilled and uneducated persons across India in er ¾ centers. There is no be er industry which can provide such large scale employment than ours with least cost to the gov-ernment. Our domes c market cannot grow to absorb all the produc on, therefore tex le exports is crucial to cre-a on of the much needed crores of new jobs. TEXPROCIL @ 60 has therefore the sacred duty of providing inclusive growth through crea on of gainful employment in Indian tex le through rapid expansion of overseas markets for our tex le products.

U T :Tex le industry is a long value chain, and has to work

as a harmonious integrated industry to deliver. We need ground rules with fairness to create harmony. TEXPROCIL represent the en re value chain and has evolved certain ground rules to ensure harmony with fairness acrossthe val-ue chain like.1. Modular drawback2. Quan ty restric on free trade with access to interna on-

al prices3. Incen ves to start from fi nished goods and fl ow down-

wardsThis ensures that all products from co on to “cut and sew”

enjoy interna onal prices.Even as each link enjoys interna onal prices, the prod-

uct becomes available eff ec vely cheaper to Indian value adding companies. This rather obvious but simple under-standing, if appreciated by all can help the long value chain stay integrated. TEXPROCIL has taken the ini a ve to work closely with sister EPCs to create a unifi ed approach to ex-port promo on. Several joint representa ons have already been done. Working together increases the mind space of policy makers. Owning up our improving compe veness, highligh ng our compe veness and seeking external en-ablers to convert our internal compe veness into growing external trade will then become easier. When we make Joint representa ons to our policy makers, it will have a much bigger impact than when we make the same representa on as individual councils. TEXPROCIL @ 60 enjoys tremendous credibility, its logical, data based approach is much appreci-ated by Ministry offi cials and the eff ec veness of TEXPRO-CIL’s approach over lobbying based approach is certainly bringing the other EPCs to workmore closely with TEXPRO-CIL.

L Mere manufacturing compe veness cannot by itself

translate into growing interna onal trade. Rela ve cost of raw material, level playing fi eld in tariff barriers are ex-tremely important for compe veness to translate into in-terna onal trade. Co on surplus country should theore -cally have lower co on costs, but the reality is the opposite. We need to fi nd solu ons together. While India has signed FTAs with developing na ons all of whom are tex le export-ers themselves, with important developed world and China who are tex le importers, we face rela vely much higher tariff barriers than our immediate compe tors. Although it is not an export promo on ac vity, EPCs have to get in-creasingly involved in related areas such as:-1 Ge ng CCI to play the market stabilizing role besides

support price2 Carefully study interna onal trade trea es, trade im-

balances with important countries, commission social impact studies and through it highlight the importance of access to developed markets for tex les, the employ-ment genera ng industry

3 Study the stated objec ve of incen ves and du fully take up the need to have the highest incen ves for tex- les amongst all manufactured product with our tex le

and commerce ministries and DGFT All the above serve the common interest of all tex le Export Promo on Councils and need to take it up as the joint project of the 3 major EPCs together.

T Our China focus has yielded excellent results, except

during periods when Indian co on prices were much high-er than interna onal prices. We enjoyed a buoyant market for our yarns and will certainly have it once again when our co on prices drop to interna onal prices. Our innova ve strategy to open the doors into Vietnam is beginning to give us results. Our approach was highly appreciated not only by our Ministry and Consulate but even by the Vietnamese trade department. The huge response on the last day, with over 50 serious customers represen ng over 15% of the Vietnamese garmen ng industry visi ng us during the BSM, a huge contrast from our previous BSMs where we received a handful of small buyers is evidence enough. Our eff orts to get our government to seek favorable access to China for our Fabrics and Home tex les is gaining trac on. Our Com-merce Minister took up the issue most eff ec vely during her recent visit to China. We have also been successful in ge ng our ED / Chairman included in the delega on as a member. Ge ng favorable access into China will be a game changer and help us steeply increase our exports. Our re-cent bold ar cula on of the need to follow the stated policy on incen ves cannot be ignored by the policy makers. If all EPCs consistently follow it up, I am extremely confi dent that our demand cannot be ignored, when we get what we truly deserve, it will help us perform to our poten al and exceed our set targets comfortably. Our target for 2012-2013 was fi xed at US$ 12 billion; we exceeded it by a good margin. We were complimented by our Ministry for being one of the very few EPCs which had assumed an ambi ous target and exceeded it by a decent margin. We have done a market study of Japan and Korea, we need to focus on penetra ng these markets with country product specifi c ini a ves.

AGM SPEECH TEXPROCILSHRI MANIKAM RAMASWAMI, CHAIRMAN


57

P W ,1. GST will help reduce a part of the need2. However once we gain a level playing fi eld with respect

to import duty tariff s, the need will further reduce3. Logis c cost reduc on a er coastal cargo movement improves and container transporta on cost by rail as

charged by Railways is available to all, instead of only to monopoly companies that operate container freight services, we will be able to reduce the need even fur-ther

4. With lower interest costs we will be able to compete without subsidies Un l all the needs to compete with-out subsidies are fulfi lled, we need to ensure that our policy makers support us without fear of backlash.

R

Wool Industry Export Promo on Council was formed for promo ng and enhancing wool and woollen tex le ex-ports and to create an image favourable for this purpose is being followed by the council.

Indian woollen tex le industry, as you all know is labour intensive industry and can create more jobs to the skilled, unskilled and also educated people in addi on to the jobs for the ladies in the remote villages of the country.

Wool and Woollen Tex le exports helps in crea on of jobs for the youth of the country for the domes c industry and the export markets.

The wool and woollen tex le industry in India is poised to grow at a healthy rate provided level playing fi eld in tariff barriers with rela ve cost of materials which will create an atmostphere of compe veness to boost exports.

India’s export performance has been steady although overall export of emerging na ons and some of the de-veloping na ons grew during the last year. Some major reasons for less exports is the lack of the manufacturing compe veness due to high transac on costs, procedural delays and rigid labour laws. Technical and scale of opera- ons are important factors to cut cost. Woollen Tex les are

witnessing the healthy growth slowly.A high rate of technology penetra on into this indus-

try coupled with government incen ves and other capacity building ini a ves have translated into increased exports, besides s mula ng domes c consump on.

Indian exporters need to geographically diversify their exports to the regions such as Middle East, La n America, South East Asia and East Asia,CIS to increase their pres-ence signifi cantly in the global markets apart from US & EU which are key des na ons for Indian wool and wool brand-ed products.

Tex le Industry has great poten al and is the mainstay of the country’s economy. With aboli on of quota, India has gone ahead of other countries and has posi oned itself as a value added manufacturer with a varied material base with product development and design orienta on.

The Government envisions building state of the art pro-duc on capaci es and achieving prominent global standing in the Tex le sector by 2020 which includes manufacturers and exporters of all types of tex les.

However, the regional FTA’s have not benefi ed in India to a great extent.

India had a dollar 36.2 billion goods trade defi cit in fi scal 2014 with China. This wide trade imbalance is o en blamed for hur ng many of the manufacturing sectors in India. This

trade defi cit with China is a ma er of high concern for India. The frame work proposes step towards improving india’s export capacity and compe veness and expedite ac on on resolu on of market access. India has also suggested China to lower tariff on tex les and handmade carpets. However, China has suggested this could be taken up under the frame work of the Asia – Pacifi c Trade Agreement.

Council will be submi ng list of preference of the mar-kets in descending order to explore these markets which may be considered for trade exhibi ons for the period 2015-16.

C C M :

1. Introduc on of special benefi ts for export of brand-ed products to encourage to exporters towards brand building which is a costly aff air.

2. Enhancement of duty drawback rates on all woollen products.

3. Aboli on of custom duty on raw wool, woollen rags, nylon staple fi bre and polypropyle staple fi bre.

4. Aboli on of requirement of NOC from quaran ne au-thori es before clearance of wool.

5. Non-availability of reliable sta s cs of woollen indus-try.

6. Brand promo on of woollen products.7. Market diversifi ca on from USA/Europe to La n Ameri-

can /South East Asia/CIS/ Africa/ Japan/ Korea/ Austra-lia/ NZ & Gulf countries.

8. Organizing atleast 12 shows in a year under MAI9. Organizing atleast 5 shows under MDA Scheme.10. JWG between India and Australia in areas of Promo-

on/technical know how /knowledge transfer/brand-ing/studies for improving trade and wool

Wool Industry Export Promo on Council organized and par cipated in the following shows and recommenda- ons:

1. New Years’ Gi s – Interna onal Exhibi on, St. Peters-burg, Russia for the period 12th – 15th December, 2013

2. 32nd Edi on Expocomber, Panama City, Panama for the period 26th – 29th March, 2014.

Wooltexpro has maintained close rela ons with all the EPCs for export promo on with united approach.

Wooltexpro has also maintained close liason with Aus-tralian Wool Innova on, Wool Research Associa on, Central Wool Development Board, Gujarat Sheep & Wool Develop-ment Corpora on and all the interna onal players in wool and woollen tex le industry.

AGM SPEECHWOOL INDUSTRY EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL


58

We have been improving our posi on in exports. It is heartening to note that exports of Indian Man-made fi bre tex les touched US$6160 million during 2013-14 as against US$5249 million during 2012-13, thereby registering a growth of 17%, over the in the previous year. The rupee deprecia on during most of 2013-14 also supplemented the eff orts put in by our members to achieve this number. Ex-ports of Fabrics dominated the export basket with a share of 36% followed by Yarn 33%, Made-ups 21% and Fibre 10%...Our exports were des ned to 146 countries.

UAE has emerged as the leading market of Indian MMF tex le exports with US$588 million, followed by Turkey (US$560 million). Neighbouring Bangladesh has emerged as the 5th largest market.

The other leading markets during 2013-14 were USA (US$457 million), Brazil (US$325 million), Afghanistan (US$196 million), UK (US$190 million), Germany (179 mil-lion), Egypt (US$167 million) and Iran (US$157 million).

As you are aware, the Honorable Prime Minister has urged for evolving “Make in India” brand based on “zero de-fect and zero eff ect (on environment)” and envisioned India emerging as the preferred des na on for global manufac-turing and Indian goods acquiring reputa on amongst the global consumers based on quality. There could not have been a more opportune me for this. India has fallen to 134th rank out of 189 countries in the World Bank’s ease of doing business rankings. Furthermore, World Economic Forum’s global compe veness Index ranked India 71 out of 144 countries----22 slots lower than 6 years ago. Manu-facturing beyond doubt needs to be augmented. It will spur domes c economic ac vity, higher growth, more jobs, and move people out of agriculture, spur services and increased exports. Its share in GDP has stagnated to 15% over the last 20 years. Let us hope with the concentrated eff orts of the Government we gain on these fronts.

In this connec on Secretary Tex les held a mee ng with EPC’s. In the delibera on we have highlighted the is-sues constraining the MMF tex les Industry. We are today capable of manufacturing the best quality of yarn, fabrics and made ups and take pride in delivering these to the most quality conscious customer/markets. Adequate policy sup-port and liberal incen ve measures are required to achieve compounded growth. Special a en on was sought in the case of MMF tex les, as unlike other segments in the tex le sector, it is burdened with a slew of taxes in the domes c market, and protec onist measures in its export markets. Hence it was suggested that MMF tex les need immedi-ate support measures like aboli on of various taxes and also con nua on of interest subven on scheme, enhanced drawback rates and reduced interest rates similar to that of the priority sector lending for enhancing its growth and ex-ports. It was assured that MMF Tex le Sector has the capac-ity to absorb the s mulus and deliver enhanced outcome and export manifold in the near future. We have also sought for immediate support, both fi nancial and diploma c level, for fi gh ng An -dumping cases.

T F A R WTO

The recent opposi on of Government of India to the

Trade Facilita on Agreement (FTA) needs re-look urgently. This is in the interest of India and also at global level benefi t-ing large number of countries. Trade is an engine of growth, especially for developing countries such as India. Trade Fa-cilita on Agreement (TFA) was the outcome of a pledge tak-en by 160 member countries including India in December, 2013 in Bali. It was a pledge to cut red tape from customs procedures aiming to reducing Customs related paper work, customs procedures more transparent, reducing clearance delays at ports, etc. For its implementa on fi nancial assis-tance would be provided both through the WTO and the World Bank.

TFA was primarily aimed at reducing fric on in the movement of goods across countries and increasing their fl ows by minimizing their ineffi ciencies and increasing trans-parencies in the governance of interna onal trade.

Though India’s concern on this front is valid, upholding food security is a livelihood issue; TFA is the need of the hour to give boost to global trade and also to overcome various transac on costs and procedural delays. It is our submission that India should ac vely and immediately move on and eliminate the hurdles and delays in the customs procedure etc so as to enhance speed of trade fl ow. Since food security is also important for us, we should look for op ons like pro-ducer subsidies such as cash transfer, consump on subsidy to help poor farmers which may not be objec onable at the WTO level. We must also heed the general feeling in the in-terna onal trade regime that the present TFA impasse may be more damaging for the WTO mul lateral trade deals that span many industries like tex les and MMF. Hence we must urgently take a middle path to reach out the global forum to off er an amicable solu on and also quickly taking steps in the domes c front for removing the plethora of procedural hurdles which delays the normal trade fl ow.

EXPORT TARGETYou may be aware that as per the latest data, MMF tex-

les exports during April-August, 2014-15, has reached US $ 2.44 billion registering a growth of 6.75% compared to the corresponding period last year. It is heartening to see that the exports are increasing. I am delighted to inform you that the Council had set an ambi ous target of US$ 6.0 billion for the year 2013-14 which has not only been achieved but also surpassed. This was possible only due to the coordinated eff orts and commitments of our members, leadership and guidance by our COA and compensa on and support from Ministry of Tex les and Commerce. Based on these encour-aging exports, the Council has set an ambi ous export target of US$ 6.50 billion during the year 2014-15. I am confi dent that with your con nued eff orts and posi ve policy support of the Government, we shall be successful in achieving the target during 2014-15 also.

PROMOTIONAL PROGRAMMESIn the year 2013-14, Council par cipated in the interna-

onal Fairs in Korea, China, and Cambodia & Saudi Arabia and also organized exclusive tex le exhibi ons INTEXPO in Colombia (Bogota & Medellin) and Iran. I am glad to submit that these Exhibi ons have yielded sa sfactory results and more importantly there has been signifi cant increase in ex-ports of our items in those markets where Council organized

AGM SPEECH SRTEPC CHAIRMAN : SHRI RAKESH MEHRA


59

promo onal programmes.

INTEXPO IRANOne of our important promo onal programme during

2013-14 was INTEXPO Iran. INTEXPO, the biggest exposi on of Indian tex les in Iran was held at Tehran, Iran during May 19-21, 2013. A fi rst-ever Combined Indian Exhibi on of Tex- les organised by the Council has evoked huge interest in

Indian tex les by the buyers in Iran. We have also received huge media support with live coverage of local television.

It has also opened up new avenues for enhancing our exports of tex les to Iran in the context of the rupee trade mechanism between Iran and India consequent to sanc on of Iran by the US and EU.

Friends, as expected it has given signifi cant boost to ex-ports of Indian tex les to Iran.

PROMOTIONAL PROGRAMMES IN 2014-15I am happy to inform that, with the enormous support

and encouragement of the members, the Council was able to successfully organise various exhibi ons during 2014-15. These include the fi rst-ever exclusive Exhibi ons in La n America in Peru in April 2014, and also in the African Con -nent in Sudan and Ethiopia in August 2014, which a racted good turn out of buyers in these markets. The Council will be undertaking exhibi ons in other important markets in-cluding Bangladesh, Burma, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Pakistan, Russia and Turkey during the year 2014-15. We are also planning to organize INTEXPO in Iran and Colombia in con-sulta on with the Embassy of India and Exhibi on Authority of Iran.

INTEXPO SUDAN AND ETHIOPIAINTEXPO Sudan and Ethiopia is the maiden exclusive

Exhibi ons of Man-made tex les organized by the Coun-cil with the ac ve assistance and guidance of the Embassy of India in Sudan and Ethiopia. The Exhibi on provided 20 members par cipa ng companies, an excellent opportuni-ty to interact with the buyers and understand their specifi c requirements. The highly focused export promo on pro-gramme in Sudan and Ethiopia made a good impact on the outcome of the Exhibi ons and the par cipa ng member companies in introducing their products eff ec vely to their prospec ve buyers/importers and their agents in these mar-ket in the African region.

POLICY MATTERSAs you are aware, Indian MMF Tex les did remarkably

well amidst the lull exports in other sectors in 2013-14. The Man- made tex les grew highest to nearly 17%, amongst the other tex les. However, in order to sustain our exports during these diffi cult mes, there is need for considera on by way of generous Policy support from the Government. We have suggested some of the urgent measures to be tak-en in this regard to the Government including the Ministry of Tex les and Ministry of Commerce.

ENHANCED GOVERNMENT SUPPORT UNDER – F T PWe have made best eff orts to sensi ze the policy deci-

sion makers in the government at various levels that there

exists a tremendous opportunity to increase export of MMF Tex les, thereby enhancing the much needed foreign ex-change earnings of the country. We had reiterated that, India’s export of MMF Tex les at USD 6 BN is barely 10% of China. Considering even a 10% shi of Chinese business to India, Indian exports can double to USD 12 BN. MMF Tex- les need Government support to achieve this due to the

reasons that the Indian MMF Tex les face a slew of disad-vantages that include:

The structure of the domes c MMF industry is such that it allows the domes c producers of staple fi bre to charge im-port parity prices which are 20% higher than ex- mill prices of fi bre in compe ve countries like China and Indonesia. This puts the Indian exporter in a disadvantageous posi on vis-à-vis its compe tors.

Our main raw material is a manufactured product and not grown on mother earth. We have no luxury of natural resources. It faces s ff compe on from China, Indonesia, Korea and Thailand. The price of MMF fi bres too fl uctuates with crude oil prices thus bringing about uncertainty.

MMF tex les exports face aggressive imposi on of an dumping du es by most of the impor ng countries. This phenomenon exists only in MMF tex les amongst all the segments of India’s tex le exports.

Market Linked Focus Product Scheme (MLFPS) has emerged as a suitable Scheme of the Government. We have requested the DGFT, Ministry of Commerce giving all jus fi -ca ons to grant benefi t of MLFPS from 4% to 7% for MMF products to increase exports in the iden fi ed markets. These submissions have been carefully prepared considering the poten al of an export market vis a vis our share.

In view of the above, the export of MMF tex les are only at 2.8% of World trade whilst the other segments in the Indi-an tex les export are in excess of 5%, thus crossing the WTO threshold limit of 3.25% of World trade.

We, have proposed under the FTP proposal to extend maximum possible benefi ts under Chapter 3 of the FTP in preference to the other segments in the Indian Tex le Ex-port.

AEPC PROPOSAL AEPC has been consistently seeking Duty free import

of Man-made fabrics on one pretext or the other. We had made it amply clear about the damage consequence to the domes c MMF tex les if it is agreed upon. Due to high fi s-cal du es levied on MMF tex les, resultant fabric becomes expensive in the domes c market. For export of garment made out of domes c fabrics, the high fi scal levies are neu-tralized by All Industry Drawback Rates.

I am extremely happy to reiterate that the Indian MMF tex le industry today is in a posi on to manufacture high quality products and can match global standards of compet-itor countries.

We have to be extremely vigilant in the AEPC’s mo ve and moves which will result in substan al import of MMF fabrics into India and will further burden and damage the domes c MMF industry already stressed due to various high fi scal levies, transac on costs etc.

AGM SPEECHSRTEPCCHAIRMAN : SHRI RAKESH MEHRA


60

PRIORITY SECTOR LENDING RATEIn order to make exports compe ve, funds/credit

should be made available to the exporters at lower rates. The current interest rate at which credit is available to ex-porters is making us uncompe ve. I urged the Government to make available funds to the expor ng community at no more than 7% p.a. and treat such loans as Priority Sector Lending.

ABOLITION OF CUSTOMS DUTY SAD ON IMPORT OF MAN-MADE FIBRES

Indian Manufacturers of Man Made Fibres by their sheer size do not need any protec on. The import of such Fibres is negligible. Customs Duty and SAD only increase im-port parity prices vis-à-vis Domes c Price. I have urged the Government to abolish the same and it will have no revenue loss to the exchequer.

REDUCTION IN EXCISE DUTYOur goal is to achieve fabric security to the country.

With this ul mate goal in mind, we have requested the Gov-ernment to create a level playing fi eld by bringing about duty neutrality amongst all fi bres. The consumer should be allowed to choose fabric according to what he likes instead of price diff erences due to distorted duty structure. In fact, this imbalance has not allowed the MMF Industry to grow to its true poten al. The share of MMF tex les world over is 60% of the total tex le trade; while the same in India is only 40%. MMF Fabrics are much cheaper, long las ng and predominantly used by the common man. I have requested the Government to correct this distorted duty structure that will allow each fi bre to compete on its merit. Revenue loss if any, on this account may be neutralized by imposing import duty on crude.

INTEREST SUBVENTIONIt is learnt that the Commerce Department has already

taken up the issue of interest subven on which expired at the end of March 2014 with the Finance Ministry and the extension is expected with the budgetary provision for the Scheme which has already been made. The benefi t was drawn earlier to sectors such as small and medium enter-prises, handloom tex les, handicra s, carpets, toys, sports goods, etc. We urge that the benefi t of Interest Subven on should be extended to all exporters of the tex le sector in-cluding MMF tex les irrespec ve of their size and invest-ment in plant and machinery.

DUTY DRAWBACKIn order to make our exports compe ve in the inter-

na onal market, there is a need for enhancement of Duty Drawback rates for all Synthe c items. During the High Level Drawback Commi ee mee ng held on 30th August 2013. It was highlighted to the Commi ee about the increasing cost of products due to various du es and levies and . I had fur-ther pointed out to the Commi ee that due to the removal of the DEPB Scheme, exports of MMF tex les have been ad-versely aff ected. The detailed calcula ons of excise and cus-tom du es on Man-made items along with the suppor ng Annexures including Shipping Bills, Central Excise Invoice,

Bill of Entries, etc. have been provided to the Department of Finance (Drawback). Let us look forward for the Enhanced Drawback announcement for the MMF Products. We have requested them to be generous with MMF Tex les in view of the fact that it is the only sector in the en re Indian tex le industry that contributes towards excise duty and that too Rs 7000 crores annually.

ANTI-DUMPING INVESTIGATIONFriends, our main area of concern is the ongoing An-

-Dumping Du es/Safeguard Du es levied by Turkey, Brazil, Indonesia, Peru, Egypt and the European Union. These levies of An -dumping du es impact our compe veness. To start with, this year Turkey has ini ated Sunset Review on “Yarn of Man-made or Synthe c or Ar fi cial Staple Fibres”. Con-cerned members have been ac vely taking part in defend-ing the case. The Council has also taken up the ma er with the Ministry of Tex les to take up the ma er bilaterally with the concerned authori es in Turkey to conduct inves ga on and withdrawal of An Dumping on our MMF products.

The European Commission has ini ated an An -Sub-sidy Inves ga on on import of PSF origina ng from India. Subsequently, the European Commission iden fi ed sample companies for onsite verifi ca on in India. The Offi cials from the European Commission visited India to verify the details of Central and State Government Schemes with Offi cials of DOC, DGFT and DBK Department.

Indonesia too has ini ated an An Dumping Inves ga- on on import of “Drawn Textured Yarn” (DTY) from India.

The Council had received essen al facts in DTY Inves ga on commenced by Indonesia and KADI has forwarded the re-sults of the date enquiry report on An Dumping on imports of DTY with a request to provide the comments by the con-cerned exporters.

It may be brought to the a en on of our members that the ongoing An -Dumping Du es by Brazil on “Viscose Spun Yarns” and by Peru on ‘Fabrics made of Polyester Staple Fi-bre and Viscose Staple Fibre’ is coming up for a Sunset Re-view a er a year or two.

We request the Ministry once again to take up An Dumping ma er with the concerned countries bilaterally through diploma c channels and also at the WTO pla orm so that the an -dumping du es on MMF Tex les may be withdrawn.

I have also pleaded for increase in fi nancial assistance for defending An -dumping cases against Indian exports under the MAI scheme as defending an -dumping cases in-volve high legal fees and other costs.

MEMBERSHIP DRIVEI am glad to inform you that in the year 2013-14 the

Council have already surpassed the membership target set for the SRTEPC by the Ministry. At present the total num-ber of members of SRTEPC is 3327. The Council has chalked out a Membership Drive programme in various MMF hubs in the country with organizing of Seminars, Workshops and personal orienta on during the year.

AGM SPEECH SRTEPC CHAIRMAN : SHRI RAKESH MEHRA


61

President : Mr. Ramesh Poddar,MD of Siyaram Mills Ltd.The fi nancial year which slipped into history on 1st April

of this year was important in many respects.The country got a new Government and the whole na-

on is looking up to the Honourable Prime Minister for quick resolu on of economic and administra ve problems which had arrested the economic growth and created discontent in the society.

Although things have started improving, one cannot ex-pect any magic will happen to resolve all problems in a jiff y. I would like to touch upon a few important developments.

I T T Exports of tex les and clothing, [Chapters 50 to 63], to-

talled nearly US $ 40 billion, in 2013-2014. The world ex-port trade in Tex les and Clothing grew by 6.77% from US $ 710.64 billion during Jan – Dec 2012 to US $ 758.77 billion during Jan-Dec 2013.

It is a ma er of gra fi ca on that India reported a growth of 11.27%, although among the top ten expor ng countries, the performance of Vietnam was the highest at 18.61% and Bangladesh was the second highest at 17.99%. China con- nued to be the largest exporter with a lion’s share of 36%

was the third highest in the growth rate. India’s share in world exports of tex les and clothing has now improved to 4.82%.

China is facing the problems of increasing produc on cost because of the increase in Labour cost and Power cost. The developing situa on in China may open opportunity to other expor ng countries like India to bag a larger share of interna onal trade.

V SThe Ministry of Tex les had appointed an Expert Com-

mi ee under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shankar, Mem-ber-Secretary, Na onal Manufacturing Compe ve Council. The Expert Commi ee has prepared Vision, Strategy and Ac on plan for Indian Tex le and Apparel Sector.

The report has envisaged that with a 20% CAGR in ex-ports India would be expor ng by 2024-25 tex les and fab-rics worth US $ 300 billion. Further, with a 12% CAGR in domes c sales, the industry should reach a produc on level of US $ 350 billion of tex les and apparels, by 2024-2025, for domes c sales.

Thus, the size of the industry will be US $ 650 billion from the present level of US $ 120 billion. This is certainly a long jump.

With the growing visibility of the improved strength, ef-fi ciency and produc vity, the Industry is capable of making eff orts to achieve the projected level of growth. If every-thing goes well and if the genuine demands are met, the industry may touch the projected level or go close to it. If that happens, the industry will be at the top of the Everest of Indian economy.

‘M I ’The high-profi le launch of ‘Make in India’ is the welcome

step to make our country a manufacturing hub. Already, In-dia is a leading service provider. On achieving supremacy in manufacturing and further strengthening of servicing capa-bility, India will become an economic power. Once this hap-pens, all economic and social problems, which are currently faced, will resolve.

O RThe tex le industry is on the threshold of a revolu on in

marke ng, which will help increase consump on.Some tex le companies have plans to rope in local

tailors and make available tailoring services online with a branded off ering. Thus, the fabric brands will get a boost through the digital medium.

Tex le companies are also planning to take help from gi-ant e-retailers to organize online marke ng pla orm to their products, whether fabrics or garments

The entry of electronics in the marke ng will reduce distribu on cost, and help the consumer to do purchasing in the cosy atmosphere of his residence, thereby saving his me and money on transport. The end result is to get fab-

rics and garments at reduced prices which will increase con-sump on.

I strongly advocate fellow manufacturers to ac vely consider the latest marke ng strategy.

GST A large chunk of the tex le industry par cularly the or-

ganized sector has welcomed the introduc on of GST that is Goods and Services Tax.

GST may be good for the industry in general. However in the case of Tex le industry the main problem is of tax com-pliance. Will this not create problems in smooth func oning of GST? It is also important to decide, whether, for the pur-pose of taxa on, a hand-made product like handloom fab-rics which is the heritage, culture and pride of the country could be equated with the products on super-high-speed, high produc vity, sophis cated machines of the present genera on. Next, at present, there is neither excise duty nor VAT on conven onal fabrics. Will the industry be in a posi- on to pass on the burden of GST in such a situa on? The

ques on is whether it is correct to measure all segments of the industry by the same standard or yards ck or there should be considera on of such issues.

What is required is a detailed analysis of the pros and cons of GST on the tex le industry. It is equally necessary to take into considera on views of all segments of the industry before taking such an important decision.

AGM SPEECHFAITMA FEDERATION OF ALL INDIA TEXTILE MANUFACTURERS’ ASSOCIATIONS


62

EXPORT PERFORMANCEExports in dollar terms for April-March of the FY 2013-

14 has increased by 15.7 per cent over the same period of previous FY and reached to USD 15001 million.

Apparel exports were to the tune of USD 1384 million in Aug. 2014-15 with increase of 23 per cent against the corre-sponding month of last fi nancial year. India’s RMG export to World for cumula ve months i.e. April-August 2014-15 was to the tune of USD 7076 mn. up by 17.9 per cent from the same period of previous fi nancial year. During April-August 2013-14 India’s apparel exports were to the tune of USD 6002 mn.

Apparel imports of the United States witnessed decline of 1.38 per cent in the July month of 2014 from the previous year and amounted to US$8296 million against US$ 8385 million in July 2013. In the July 2014, US imports of apparel from Vietnam has increased by 5.95 % per cent and reached to USD 884 million against USD 834 million in July 2013. In the month July 2014 USA registered highest import growth from Vietnam amongst top 6 RMG suppliers to USA.

Cumula ve period of Jan-July 2014 saw only modest improvement in the USA apparel import with an increase of 2.19% compared to same period of previous year. Cu-mula ve import for Jan-July 2014 was to the tune of US$ 46425 mn. as against US$ 45430 million in Jan-July 2013. In Jan-July 2014 out of the total USA garment import only US$ 2151 mn. was imported from India with an increase of 5.62% compared to same period of previous year.

USA RMG imports saw decline from all major suppliers during Jan-July 2014 over the corresponding period of last year except for Vietnam (13.85%) and India (5.62%).

EU’s apparel import accounted for USD 45586 million for the Jan.-June 2014 with increase of 12.63% over the same period of previous year. India’s export to EU for the Jan-June 2014 amounted to USD 3483 million with 16.33% increase compared to same period of previous year.

In June 2014 total external-EU RMG import was to the tune of US$ 7570 million with an increase of 19.29 per cent compared to same month of previous year. in June 2014 EU registered posi ve growth in RMG import from all 4 top suppliers and highest import growth was registered by Ban-gladesh (33.07 per cent) followed by India (27.17%).

D F Y 2013-14 G

i) En tlement of export performance cer fi cate (EPC) has been increased from 3% to 5%. Removal of exemp on limit of import of sample fabric. should be limited to 2% of the FoB value.

ii) The RMG sector has con nued under op onal CEN

VAT chain. iii) 3% interest subven on scheme in the RMG sector, should

be con nued for 12th Plan period.iv) Separate chapter for pre and post shipment export

credit at fi xed rate of 7% Interest by including apparel in priority sector lending.

v) Upward Revision of Duty Drawback needs to be in-creased to take care of various anomalies, which lead to export of Taxes and make it broad based with increase in drawback caps etc. & possibly matching with that of China which is 17 % of FoB value, which would spur the growth in apparel exports, boost Forex and employ-ment in all round manner.

vi) Employment genera on linked tax credit for set-off against direct / indirect taxes in a staggered manner

vii) Amendment in Sec on 35 of IT Act 1961:- The benefi t of this sec on should be extended to readymade garment sample making to the extent of 5% of the turnover of that assesses in the same assessment year. Further this amount of deduc on should be allowed as reduc on in computa on of book profi t u/s 115JB also.

viii) Waiving off Service Tax on taxable service in sub clause (zzze) of clause (105) of Sec on 65 of Finance Act on services may be provided to specifi ed associa- ons under (zzze) of Finance Act) for the period of viz.

16.06.2005 to 06.07.2009.ix) The manpower engaged by the contractors in the ex-

porters premises who are involved in the manufactur-ing ac vity in the terms of sec on 2(f) of central excise act 1944, meant for export should be fully exempted from the preview of Service Tax.

x) EPCs should be exempted from service tax payment on organizing exhibi on in domes c market.

xi) Export sector should be exempted from following ser-vice taxes like ECGC Premium, Clearing House Agents (CHA), Terminal Handling Charges (THC), Bank charges on collec on of bill, foreign currency related to export, service charges for conversion of remi ances, courier charges for documents and commercial shipments, ser-vice tax on ac vi es related to brand promo on.

xii) AEPC has submi ed details to DGFT and JS (DBK) about simplifi ca on in SION & customs exit point.

EXPORT PROMOTION (A) Buyer Seller Meets in New York, Spain, Colombia,

Brazil, Israel, South Africa,Uruguay, San ago, Netherland,

(B) I F : P i) Fatex Fair in Paris, Franceii) Hong Kong Fashion Week, Hong Kong iii) JFW Interna onal Fashion Fair iv) Magic Fair, Las Vegas, USAv) Australian Interna onal Sourcing Fair, Melbournevi) Hong Kong Fashion Week, Hong Kongix) White Label, Berlin, Germanyx) Apparel Show in Interna onal Fashion Fair Tokyo,

Japan

(C) D Ei) India Market Days ii) India Interna onal Garment Fair (IIGF), Praga Maidan,

New DelhI

(D) H L T D

AGM SPEECH AEPC CHAIRMAN : MR. VIRENDRA UPPAL


63

AEPC’ CCC - DISHA Driving Industry towards Sustainable Human Advance-

ment (DISHA) is a centrally Sponsored Scheme, under the Ministry of Tex les. The programme has completed 2 years and enrolled 478 factories as on date, of which 217 have completed the training programme & are ready for the AEPC Common Code of Conduct Cer fi ca on. The Twel h Plan Proposal for en re 980 units under an overall budget of Rs 23.88 crores has been submi ed to Ministry of Tex les and their approval is awaited.

The major events organized under the program during the year have been DISHA Adop on Cer fi cate Distribu on Ceremony, Training of Trainers, Mee ng of Expert Working Group and par cipa on in na onal & interna onal fairs & exhibi ons.

The programme has received a posi ve feedback from industry par cipants & Interna onal organiza on such as ITC (Interna onal Trade Centre) which is a subsidiary of WTO and an apex body which benchmarks all major social standards across the globe. It has iden fi ed DISHA as con-tribu ng to:1. Achieving the Growth of Exports Garments by Exploring,

Sustaining & Expending global markets2. Becoming one stop informa on centre providing Exports

assistance to garment exporters 3. Bridging the gap between the exporters and overseas

buyers through dedicated eff orts of employees and Con nual Improvement of the quality management system.ITC has listed DISHA along with 115 standards form

across the world. This is suo moto recogni on and has ap-preciated both by Industry & buyers and a stepping board for acknowledgement of DISHA by the buyers.

INNOVATIVE GARMENT TECHNOLOGY MISSIONThe Innova ve Garment Technology Mission was ini at-

ed to inspire innova on by iden fying pioneering garment categories which encourage exporters to enhance their ca-pabili es with respect to innova ve product categories.

Under this 3i approach, the fi rst handbook and DVD on denim tled “Inside the Denim Business” has been creat-ed. These series on Denim are par cularly useful for micro, small and medium garment manufacturers and inspires them to make an entry into a new and advanced category.

The next ins tu onal DVD is proposed on Industrial Work wear.

AEPC WEBSITEIn a bid to reach the maximum stakeholders and cre-

ate a brand image to the garment traders across the world, AEPC has revamped / redesigned its mul lingual website in over 80 diff erent foreign and Indian languages.

KNITWEAR TECHNOLOGY MISSIONKnitwear Technology Mission is set up by the council for

providing knowledge services (market informa on about knitwear), tes ng & cer fi ca on, research, training & ed-uca on, design services and investor facilita on services like technology selec on etc in the fi eld of man-made fi bre

garments.

INSTITUTE OF APPAREL MANAGEMENT IAM in less than 5-years has emerged as “Centre of

Excellence” in Fashion & Apparel Sector including launch of 4-year B.Tech and “GenNext MBA in Fashion Business” pro-grams.

APPAREL TRAINING DESIGN CENTRE ATDC has emerged as the largest voca onal training

provider for the Apparel Sector in the country. ATDC is also the single largest training provider for any voca onal trade in India. ATDC since 2009 underwent a major transforma on a er being selected as a Nodal Agency under Component I by the Ministry of Tex les (MOT), Govt. of India and since then, ATDC has systema cally worked towards develop-ing training infrastructure, having set-up over 205 Centres Pan-India with State-of-the-Art factory simulated produc- on environment. Cumula vely over 1,20,000 candidates

have been trained in a short span from 2009 ll March 2014 in both fast-track training programmes under the ‘SMART’ project and in long-term programmes at ATDC Voca onal Ins tutes. In addi on ATDC have set-up 3 Training of Train-ers’ Academies and 3 Academies have trained about 1110 trained through specially developed training modules.

N I : The ‘Educa on Excellence Award 2014’ was received

under ‘Best Voca onal Training Ins tute’ category by the country’s apex trade agency the Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India (ASSOCHAM) in the Na- onal Capital on February 19.

This year a key contribu on by ATDC to the Skillscape came in form of developing Contemporary Curricula for over 29 trade courses (Garment & Fashion sectors) along with Directorate General of Employment & Training (DGE&T) & Na onal Council for Voca onal Training (NCVT) for cer fi ca- on requirements and with AICTE for the Apparel & Tex le

sector as part of the Na onal Voca onal Educa on Frame-work(NVQF) wherein both DGE&T & AICTE formed curricula development commi ees under the DG&CEO- ATDC & IAM.

HUMAN RESOURCE ACTIVITIES SKILL ASSESSMENT CELL AEPC is the authorized by Ministry of Tex les as well as

DGE & T to conduct assessments of Apparel & Tex le in MES and Non MES category.

The Skill Assessment Cell has also centralized the ques- on paper system and has ini ated transla on in various

vernacular languages like Tamil, Oriya, Bengali etc.

APPAREL HOUSE The Apparel house at Gurgaon is having 250 show-

rooms sca ered at 2nd to 6th fl oor. On the requests of Garment Exporters, booking for vacant showrooms in the Apparel House was opened in the fi rst week of January, 2014 for all the exporters registered with Council, as well as entrepreneur in Tex les value chain like fabrics, trimming and embellishment, processing house, buying agents, buy-ing house.

AGM SPEECHAEPC CHAIRMAN : MR. VIRENDRA UPPAL


64

It gives me great pleasure to welcome you all to the 56th Annual General Mee ng of the Confedera on. During the current year we have seen signifi cant changes in the poli cal and economic landscape of our country. We have a new gov-ernment at the centre with a stable mandate and there is a strong expecta on in the business community that this will help the government to take posi ve economic decisions with wider administra ve and procedural reforms. The hon-ourable Prime Minister is on record about the importance of the tex les industry in the country’s economy and the need to assist it for faster growth. Tex les industry is one area where the PM’s progressive vision of ‘Make in India’ can be realized quickly and eff ec vely.

Latest economic indicators show a possible revival of the country’s economy. Both fi nancial and capital markets have been witnessing stability and resilience during the last few months which is a strong indica on of economic reviv-al. External trade is witnessing impressive growth which is expected to be sustained in the coming quarters too. Man-ufacturing sector has also witnessed some growth recovery in the fi rst quarter of the current fi nancial year. However, for the economy to regain its verve, the manufacturing sec-tor has to come back to double digit growth. That is not yet happening, but I am hopeful that the emerging business op mism and the eff ec ve policy interven ons by the new government would bring back the growth momentum to the en re economy including the manufacturing sector.

C BThe Central Budget for 2014-15 with its focus on core

sectors such as infrastructure, power and mining of coal and iron ore sets the stage for the long term growth of the economy. For tex les, the con nuance of op onal excise regime and the announcement of addi onal parks and clus-ters would provide growth opportuni es. Measures such as correc on of the inverted duty structure for industrial raw materials and extension of investment allowance for plant and machinery should help in

resolving a few important bo lenecks. Steps towards job crea on and the personal income tax sops given out should put more money in the hands of the consumer and help revive domes c demand. The world is awash with li-quidity and any performing economy should be able to at-tract investments. The measures outlined in the budget in-creases India’s a rac veness for emerging market investors. The trends in India’s stock markets in recent weeks refl ect these posi ve sen ments.

I S R M SSustained supply of raw material is one of the key fac-

tors that provide signifi cant compe ve advantage to Indi-an tex le industry compared to the other tex le producing countries from the region. Today India is one of the largest co on producers in the world. Ever since Bt co on was in-troduced in India, our co on produc on has more than dou-bled and yield has increased substan ally. This has a racted more than 90% of our co on farmers to use Bt seeds and also resulted in a signifi cant increase in the total area under co on. There are some disturbing demands to restrict the fi eld trials for advanced technology in co on in the country. Restric ng fi eld trials and imposing controls on

innova on would adversely aff ect future produc vi-ty of agriculture sector, par cularly in industrial crops like

co on. I would urge government to con nue to encourage use of latest technology in seed development in co on in the interest of both the agriculture and tex le sectors. We must appreciate the policy of free trade that government has been following in recent years for co on. The market is capable of handling the situa ons of surplus produc on or shortage in co on, if there is predictability and stability in trade policies and there is no interference with market trends. The livelihood issues of millions of co on farmers are certainly important but the MSP mechanism is adequate to safeguard the interests of farmers. Experience shows that policy interven ons on exports or imports have only created more problems to all concerned rather than solving them.

CITI’ C D RAssocia on has been doing yeoman’s service for the

co on sector under the leadership of Shri P.D. Patodia, our Past Chairman and currently Chairman of our Standing Com-mi ee on Co on. Total co on produc on and produc vity have increased substan ally in the areas of Rajasthan where CITI-CDRA is currently focusing and we have been able to de-liver higher income to the farmers who are par cipa ng in our projects. To achieve its true poten al for tex le growth, India has to increase the size of the raw material base sub-stan ally. Co on has limita ons of land availability and pro-duc vity. Nearly 70% of world trade in tex le products is currently based on MMFs. But the share of such products in our tex les exports is around 25%, that too mostly in yarn and fi lament fabrics. The need to diversify into manmade fi bre based products is assuming more and more urgency since the real growth opportunity for our industry is going to be in this segment during the coming years. I would urge the Union Government to reduce the duty burden including excise duty, customs duty and an dumping du es on man-made fi bres and their raw materials at the earliest so that the increasing opportuni es can be properly u lised.

P P I NTechnology Upgrada on fund Scheme launched by

government in 1999 is perhaps the best example of what proac ve policy measures can do to improve the compet-i veness of the industry. Today we have one of the most effi cient spinning sectors in the world and other segments like weaving and processing also con nue to modernise pro-duc on facili es. There have been some serious implemen-ta on problems in TUFS during the last two years. I have strongly taken up the issues of bank defaults, le out cas-es and blackout cases with government and I am hopeful that some posi ve solu ons will emerge soon. The Hank Yarn Packing Obliga on, opera ng under the Essen al Com-modi es Act and da ng back to 1974 is aff ec ng the tex le industry severely. Mills will pack yarn on hanks to the ex-tent of demand available in the market for hank yarn, for commercial reasons. And forcing the mills to produce more hank yarn than the market can absorb does not help any-body. I would request government to withdraw the Hank Yarn Packing Obliga on immediately. Handloom reserva on is another vintage policy that does not gel with the current economic policies based on market forces. I would request government to repeal the Handloom Reserva on Act and revamp the approach to the handloom sector by perceiving it as a segment for producing fabrics of exquisite designs for the high end niche market which is where the segment has inherent compe veness.

AGM SPEECH CITI CHAIRMAN:MR. PREM MALIK


65

P F N PSince weaving and kni ng will remain fragmented at

least for some more years, consolida on of the fabric indus-try for the immediate future may have to be a empted at the processing stage. We need at least 100 processing units with a capacity of not less than 100,000 metres a day in the organised sector which can get fabrics from several units in the decentralised sectors and process them together. This would address the issue of shade consistency and deliver large lots to the garment industry for produc on of mass consump on and regular wear products. Environmental is-sues are a major impediment in the processing sector. The pollu on control standards s pulated by the courts are more stringent than enforced anywhere else in the world, including the developed countries. A viable alterna ve to zero discharge within the ambit of the law is necessary. Es-tablishment of processing parks in coastal areas where ma-rine discharge is possible may be one alterna ve.

I T G MTex le industry of India has had a chequered growth

story during the last ten years and exports played a major role in both the ups and downs. The industry gained sub-stan ally in terms of greater produc vity, raw material sta-bility, massive modernisa on and technology based capacity addi on during this period, but 2009 to 2011 saw a gener-al decline in the industry. The growth momentum revived during 20012 and 2013, but again recent trends are not very posi ve. India has retained the rare dis nc on of having a signifi cant share in world trade in all the segments of the value chain from fi bres to garments and home tex les. Cur-rently, we are the largest exporter of yarn and the second largest exporter of fi bres in the world. We also have signif-icant presence in global markets for fabrics, garments and home tex les. In overall terms, India is next only to China in exports of tex le products. Studies show that India’s com-pe veness in the tex le sector has improved over the last decade against most of the compe ng countries and there is immense scope for increasing our exports further.Indian tex le industry has the advantages of high opera onal effi -ciencies in spinning, rela vely low-cost labour, availability of raw materials and design capabili es and entrepreneurship that can match the best in the world. Despite these posi ve features, our share in the global tex le trade con nues to be subop mal. The global tex le trade has grown from USD 430 billion in 2003 to USD 750 billion in 2012 and is project-ed to reach USD 1150 billion by 2020. India’s share in the year 2003 was 3% of the world trade which has grown to only 4.5% by 2012. On the other hand, China had 17% share in 2003 and by 2012 it achieved a market share of 33%. Nearly half of our tex les produc on is exported in various formsand the fortunes of the industry depend substan ally on exports. Both the government and the industry have a very ambi ous vision of taking our tex les exports to sub-stan al heights during the next 10 years. The infi rmi es of infrastructure and the transac on costs are broad areas that need immediate a en on of government. Tex le specifi c policy inputs in the form of lower interest burden on export credit and proper assistance under the Focus Schemes for the whole sector will also be necessary for the industry to achieve its real poten al in the export front.

It has been observed by many that China is fast losing its cheap labour cost arbitrage and its overall produc on cost

is also increasing rapidly. This would provide an opportunity for countries like India to grab a larger share of world trade in tex les. But that will happen only if Indian industry is able to scale up produc on facili es and become ver cally inte-grated. Rigid labour laws have been a major factor inducing-fragmenta on of produc on facili es in the country. There are posi ve movements on the labour regime from the part of both Central Government and some of the State Govern-ments in recent months and this should help the process of scaling up produc on units. Of course, a lot more needs to be done for improving the labour market. But the new government has begun well and there is reason to hope that they will do the rest in a phased manner. The industry has to deviate from its conserva ve and overly cau ous ap-proach in terms of scaling up volumes and capacity crea on to harness the growingopportuni es in global markets. The stake holders of Indian tex les industry also need to take a course correc on and look for a mutually benefi cial path to strengthen the value chain effi ciency rather than resor ngto inter segmental rivalry to achieve short term segment spe-cifi c advantages.

G S T (GST) T I -

We are all eagerly awai ng the introduc on of GST in India and government seems to be progressing well on this front. CITI had organised some brainstorming sessions to study the poten al impact of GST on the industry. The tex les industry has a large chunk of small scale units that include highly fragmented power loom and handloom units, small kni ng and croche ng units and small scale garment-ing units. Any exemp ons in GST are bound to become an-other trigger for fragmenta on in several segments of the T&C industry. Leveraging of TUFS and corresponding tech-nological up-grada on process might also run into prob-lems, since fragmented sub sectors tend not to use them much. The consensus in the industry is that GST should cov-er all tex le producers without exemp on for any segments or groups and the lowest available slab in GST rates should apply to the sector. I would request government to keep this in mind while fi nalising the GST regime.

S DThere is a large and widening gap between the demand

and availability of workers in the tex les space.To fi ll up the demand supply gap, a focused and fi nan-

cially sustainable strategy for mobilizing and training work-ers needs to be put in place. There is also need to retrainand redeploy the workers from unviable units to more viable and sustainable streams. The Tex le Sector Skill Council (TSC) promoted by CITI under the aegis of the Na onal Skills Development Corpora on (NSDC) is now opera onal and the fi rst mee ng of the governing council of TSC has already been held. TSC is incubated by tex le industry as-socia ons and training providers including tex le research associa ons and offi ce of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms. It will be the nodal body to set skills bench marks and competency framework for tex le workforce. It will provide accredita on to training partners and arrange evalua on and cer fi ca onof students passing out from var-ious educa on ins tu ons which have accepted the curricu-lum and competencies adopted by TSC.

AGM SPEECHCITI CHAIRMAN:MR. PREM MALIK


66

Tex le industry have unique tradi on ie manufacturer, traders, exporter, importer always “ CRY” tht market is not good. We ques on them, if market is not good from years how they are surviving and min ng money??

As Tex le & Garment industry is commodity, lot of com-pe on, uniqueness, innova on etc, survival and growth is biggest challenge in global market. Few observa on given below by tex le contributor: • INDIA- USA business contract will be benefi ted to Gar-

ment and Home tex le industry, big orders expected by February 2015.

• Yarn dyed Checks which was imported from China, but due to increase of Rs. 30/ meter of Chinese fabric, Indian mills started producing good quality fabric

• Chatral village, besides Ahmadabad, many airjet looms will be installed soon, it will be func onal by March 2015.

• In Gujarat, there is good crop of co on this me. New spinning mills coming in Gujarat, Gujarat will be India’s Manchester. South india mills will be closed slowly ( due

to loss of poli cal party which spinning mills run)• 50x50/165x104, twill bio fi nish fabric is having good

demand at Rs. 110/meter Ex Mill• Jacquard furnishing fabric mills are less, so mill gives

30%-40% margin to the traders.• Ahmadabad printed bed sheet is in demand, Solid/ Plain

bedsheet price reduced, s ll no demand• 200TC( Thread Count) /300TC/400TC upto 800 TC sa n

percal is in good demand.• Denim fabric, if good quality maintained than buyer are

willing to pay extra.• In Ahmadabad, company of Agarwal’s not having good

quality denim, so he has 1.5 crore fabric in stock• Local/ Domes c market not good but exporter have

good orders from interna onal market. • Not good demand of fabric. Previously Grey fabric sold

by mills in Cash payment, now same mill selling fabric in credit of 60 days & 90 days.

• Ichalkaranji don’t have much work, so airjet loom job-work price is Rs. 0.80/ pick. More than 50% of looms are stopped working.

REPORT

FABRIC REPORT

FABRIC REPORT

FABRIC VARITIES

Refereance : Mr. Kir ShahTex le World, Mumbai,Email: info@tex leworld.net.in


67


68

CRUDE OILGlobal crude oil bench-

mark posted their third straight monthly loss despite good economic data from Europe, US and China. The upward revision of gross do-mes c product data from Eu-rope and other regions and fi rm US economic indicators supported prices. Also oil demand, especially in the US, showed signs of fi rmness in recent weeks. Ac vity in China’s huge factory sector steadied in September as export orders climbed, easing fears of a hard landing but poin ng to a s ll sluggish economy facing considerable risks. Both bench-mark contracts lost US$3-4 on the month with Brent crude averaging US$97.86 per barrel and US crude at US$93.10 a barrel in September. Asian naphtha market con nued to remain bearish amid mute trading ac vity as regional fun-damentals appeared to be weakening. Market players were heard training their sights forward with some expec ng re-lief later in the year. European naphtha market also weak-ened due to lack of export opportuni es resul ng in over-supply in the domes c market. The naphtha cargo values averaged US$92.90 a barrel FOB Ro erdam, down US$3.7 from August while Japan CFR values averaged US$870 per ton, losing US$33 from August.

POLYESTER CHAIN Ethylene prices bounced

back in September, par cu-larly in SE Asia as supply con-strains pushed them faster than in NE East Asian markets where demand from China was fading ahead of the long holiday in early October. In Europe, October ethylene contract price was se led at a rollover while spot prices de-clined more than Euro80 a ton. In US, spot ethylene prices touched 29-month high in the second week of September but dropped later following restart of capaci es amid im-proving availability. Ethylene prices averaged US$1,508-1,510 a ton in SE and US$1,5435-1,545 a ton in NE, up US$18.75 and US$3.75, respec vely over August. European ethylene prices were down Euro81 averaging Euro913-917 a ton FD NWE while US spot recovered US cents4.31 to aver-age US cents 71.50-72.00 per pound FD USG. Heavy selling pressure con nued to hit the Asian paraxylene markets and prices decline in the third week, only to jump back par ally on strong buying interest for October in the last week. Eu-ropean and US paraxylene benchmark were in tandem with movement in Asia. Asian marker, FOB Korea was down 7 per cent averaging US$1,238-1,239 a ton while European spot was down 5 per cent at US$1,181 a ton FOB ARA.

MEG prices weakened in September, but the fall was capped by short-covering in the end. Contract prices were se led down US$60 from their August numbers with Shell nomina ng October at US$1,100 a ton CFR Asia main ports and MEGlobal nomina ng at US$1,120 a ton CFR main port. In US, MEG prices were assessed down due to limited move-ment while European prices were stable on balanced fun-damentals. Asian MEG prices averaged US$930-935 a ton

CFR China, down US$64. US MEG prices were assessed at US cents 44.50-45.50 per pound FOB USG while European pric-es were at Euro795 a ton FCA NWE. PTA prices also slipped on bearish sen ments amid weak polyester market, aver-aging US$919.50-921.50 a ton CFR China, down US$82.50 from August. Upstream, paraxylene prices also declined easing cost support to the PTA market. Demand remained low in Europe which was refl ected in a low average oper-a ng rate of 70% across European plants. Polyester chip markets in Asia extended the downward movement as both MEG and PTA prices so ened. In China, off ers for semi dull chips fell to US$1,407-1,430 a ton, down US$68 from August average. Super bright chip prices also fell to US$1,412 a ton, down US$50-65 from August.

Polyester fi lament yarn price slipped in China in tandem with raw material costs amid sluggish downstream demand. At month-end buyers restocked cau ously for upcom-ing holiday. In Pakistan, DTY market was strong and some producers adjusted off ers according inventory level. Prices were revised upwards amid improved trading and slight-ly declining inventory. In India, prices for POY were stable amid good trading. In China, POY 75/72 was traded at aver-age of US$1.61-1.63 a kg in Shengze market, down US cents 3. Indian POY 130/34 prices were stable at US$1.95 a kg. Polyester staple markets extended the loss from last month with prices declining in China and India although at a slower pace, while Pakistan markets were resilient to the decline. In China, a strong rebound in paraxylene in the last week and rise in PTA futures on boosted polyester trading never-theless, outlook remained bearish. In India, PSF market saw a notable improvement in trading volume amid increasing ac vity. In Pakistan, cheaper imports from China were as-ser ng pressure on domes c price. 1.4D PSF in China were at US$1.49-1.50 a kg, down US cents 9. Indian PSF prices averaged INR101.25 per kg, in September as against INR104 per kg in August.

NYLON CHAIN Asian benzene prices

touched bo om in the sec-ond week of September as styrene monomer price re-bounded from a 14-month low. Lack of demand pushed spot benzene lower in US to reach a 10-month low and sen ment remained bearish in expecta ons that the market will be fl ooded with supply. European benzene prices followed the bearish streak in the US. Prices took an upturn in the third week infl uenced by the increase in US spot prices prompted by supply ghten-ing. However, prices declined in September in Asia, US and Europe as overall demand con nued to remain weak. Asian benzene marker, the FOB Korea was assessed at US$1,208-1,209 a ton, down 8.3 per cent on the month. In US, spot benzene prices averaged US cents 428.70-428.80 per gallon FOB USG, down 11.6 per cent from August. European spot barges were assessed at US$1,311-1,312 a ton CIF ARA, down 6 per cent. Caprolactum prices were on a bearish trend, given downward benzene market and weaker end-use demand. Expected increase in supply going ahead also dampened prospect of prices remaining fi rm. Asian capro-lactum spot prices averaged US$2,195-2,220 a ton in Au-

YARN REPORT YNFX MONTHLY PRICEWATCH REPORT OCTOBER 2014


69

YARN REPORTYNFX MONTHLY PRICEWATCH REPORT OCTOBER 2014

gust, down 2 per cent from last month.Nylon chip markets con nued to remain sluggish as de-

mand was lusterless, and prices were southbound, though at a slower pace than the raw materials. As tex le-yarn sector saw improving margin helped support demand for nylon chips, though buyers con nued to remain non-com-mi al given upstream drops. Non-tex le-yarn makers with limited chip stocks in hand had be er appe tes for nylon chips on improved margin. Off ers for Taiwan-origin chips averaged US$2,525-2,535 a ton, down US$25 over from last month. In China, bright conven onal spinning nylon-6 chips were priced at US$2,760-2,900 a ton while off ers for semi-dull chips were at US$2,960-3,055 a ton. Nylon yarn makers once again witnessed easing cost pressure amid lower caprolactum and nylon chip prices, thus increasing their margins. This also caused some so ening of fi lament prices while prices of staple fi ber and cord fabric showed signs of weakening. Although downstream converters saw more order intakes, ght liquidity s ll existed in kni ng and weaving sector. Nylon fi lament makers will maintain re-duced run rates and slightly adjust the prices in October. In China, semi-dull FDY70D/24F was traded at US$3.54-3.61 a kg while FDY40D was pegged at US$3.90-3.98 a kg. Nylon DTY 70D/24F was traded at US$3.74-3.98 a kg.

ACRYLIC CHAINAsian propylene prices

declined in the third week on increased supply from pro-pane dehydrogena on plants in China amid weakening de-mand. European propylene demand faltered with bearish October, as feedstock prices con nued their lackluster performance. However, prices were supported by supply constrain. For the month, propylene prices were down in Asia and Europe as demand so ened. In US, spot chemi-cal-grade propylene jumped following talk of produc on disrup ons, ght supply and strong gasoline pool demand. Asian propylene marker, FOB Japan averaged US$1,269-1,271 a ton down 3.4 per cent from August while the FOB Korea values lost 2.9 per cent at US$1,308-1,310 a ton. Ac-rylonitrile prices inched down in Asia on lower propylene costs and weak buying sen ment. European acrylonitrile prices were also down as demand weakened ahead of the propylene October contract price se lement and bearish propylene markets. In US, acrylonitrile export assessment fell on slower demand and the decline in the last week was the fi rst drop in spot pricing since mid-April. Asian acryloni-trile was assessed down US$7.50 on the month to average US$2,045-2,047 a ton CFR Far East Asia. European prices de-clined US$8.50 to US$2,004-2,008 a ton CIF Mediterranean.

Acrylic fi ber prices were on a fl at note early in the month but gained later as producers in China announced mid-month list prices mostly steady for the me being. As feedstock acrylonitrile prices remain subdued but cost pres-sure s ll persisted. Downstream yarn sen ment remained depressed for the lack of improvement in end demand, though solid yarn sector slightly picked up. Worsted bulk yarn saw normal sales. Later in the month some producers released list prices for October, with numbers kept steady.

Prices were seen moving up in Pakistan and India. Overall, terminal buying was diffi cult due to poor atmosphere in chemical fi ber industry. Taiwan’s Tong-Hwa pegged off ers for an -pilling tow at US$2.76 a kg with fi rm deals nego- able. Japan-origin fl at fi bers were quoted at US$4.00 a kg.

Thai Acrylic Fiber pegged its off ers for 1.5D at US$2.06-2.08 a kg. In China, co on-type was off ered at US$2.94-3.03 a kg, up 1.5 per cent from last month and medium-length sta-ple were at US$2.95-3.02 a kg. In Pakistan, 1.2D ASF pric-es were up PakRs5 to PakRs.325 a kg (US$3.16 a kg, up US cents 5). In India, ASF prices were up INR3 to INR 182-183 a kg (US$3.00-3.03 a kg).

VISCOSE CHAIN Viscose staple fi ber mar-

kets edged up in the second week largely due to lean in-ventory at producers and supply constraint. Prices were hiked, but were not so acceptable to downstream buyers. High-end makers also slightly raised their off ers during that week while buyers s ll resorted to the hand-to-mouth volume. However, prices retreated somewhat by month end in China given the poor buying ahead of the holiday. Prices in Pakistan were seen adjusted downwards under demand pressure while they rolled over in India. In China, off ers for medium goods were at US$1.95-1.96 a kg up US cents 2 from August. In Pakistan, 1.5D VSF was at US$2.04-2.05 a kg, down US cent 1. Indian prices were at US$2.25-2.36 a kg, down US cents 2-3. Trading sen ment in viscose fi lament yarn markets was buoyant, suppor ng producers to hike off ers with fewer low-priced goods avail-able in the market. However, the follow-up was not obvi-ous as buyers con nued to restock on need basis. Off ers for the fi rst-class VFY 120D in China were at US$6.02-6.26 a kg, same as in last month. In India, 100D bright VFY was pegged at US$6.57-6.60 a kg, down US cents 7 from August.

COTTONCo on markets were di-

rec onless as they hit short term highs and long term lows. US Co on Futures hit 8-week high in the second week on prospect of a sharp-ly lower US crop while pro-spec ve world ending stocks climbed to a new all- me high. US harvest prospects plunged mainly on reduc ons in Texas, Georgia and Arkansas. The benchmark December co on contract on ICE Futures US closed the month at US cents 61.89 per pound, down 4.68 per cent from August. The co on market in Pakistan spinners and exporters were on buying spree as fl oods and heavy rains in Punjab raised fears of vast damages to the standing co on crop. By end of September US co on futures fell to a fi ve-year low on wor-ries over China’s import demand in 2015 because of policy changes and despite a strong weekly US government export report. Adding to the market’s bearish sen ment, Co on Associa on of India stated that the crop in India could be 1.5 million bales more than USDA’s current es mate. Prices


70

in India declined sharply on surplus expecta on. Cotlook A index closed the month at US cents 70.15 while China Cot-ton Index tanked closing at 15,958 Yuan a ton.

SPUN YARNCo on yarn markets

were depressed with prices receding at a rapid pace giv-en while downstream weav-ers were generally buying on need basis, seeing spin-ning mills struggling with ght liquidity. Buying inter-

est was also dampened by the China co on policy and off -taking ac vity was almost suspended amid a bearish sen ment over the future trend. In India, yarn prices remained rela vely fl at on local mar-kets despite the sharp decline of co on prices. In Pakistan, yarn demand was rebounding a er reports sta ng that the crop size was unaff ected by recent fl oods. Given the unclear trend of co on, mills were holding wait-and-see stance, and downstream buyers reduced or even stopped buying yarn. Co on yarns prices have stabilised in Pakistan, a er declin-ing sharply end August, in line with the fall in co on prices. Co on yarn export prices in India declined due to lower de-mand from China. In China, 32s and 40s yarn were traded at US$4.31 a kg and US$4.44 a kg), respec vely. In Pakistan, 20s and 30s yarn were pegged at US$2.54 a kg and US$2.97 a kg. In India, price for 30s combed yarn for kni ng was at US$3.23 a kg, while weaving was traded at US$3.20 a kg.

Spun polyester yarn markets were so in September and makers saw margins shrink amid thin trading. PSF prices were lower in Pakistan with import prices dropping. This led to a marginal fall in polyester yarn prices and its blends. In In-dia, polyester spun prices remained fl at amid rigid demand. In Qianqing, 32s spun polyester yarn was at US$2.11-2.13 a kg, down US cents 2. In India, polyester yarn 30s prices were at US$2.51 a kg, up US cent 1 from last month. In Pakistan, 30s spun polyester was pegged at US$2.51 a kg and 60s

at US$3.26 a kg, both down US cents 5-7 from last month. Viscose spun yarn markets were generally on a stable note, seeing thinner liquidity. In Pakistan, processors reportedly booked large quan es for covering their needs in the com-ing months and expec ng price off ers for viscose yarns may increase in coming period. In China, off ers for weaving 30s yarn were at US$2.54-2.57 a kg, and those for kni ng 30s yarn were at US$2.63-2.68 a kg. Siro-spun 30s yarn were at US$2.85 a kg. In Pakistan, both 30s viscose yarn and 40s were pegged at US$3.45 a kg. In India, 30/1 viscose spun was traded at US$3.28 a kg while 40/1 was at US$3.55 a kg.

Blended yarn markets remained in weak correc ons early in the month as fi bre prices were subdued, excep ng some inching up in co on prices. Players in China were on sidelines a er the new policy on co on, thus overall o ake volumes were s ll limited. New co on to come out with cot-ton subsidies, prices for yarn may con nued to head south in the short term. Some producers lowered off ers to push sales but buyers were mostly wai ng for further decline. In India and Pakistan, blended spun yarn makers resisted any downward trend in prices. Overall off take was bearish and prices con nued to weaken. In Pakistan, polyester prices slightly declined but demand for polyester-co on yarns s ll strong. No change in prices was reported for polyester-cot-ton and polyester-viscose yarns, as producers were ge ng be er margins than with the co on yarns. In China, polyes-ter/co on (65/35) 32s yarn was traded at US$3.24 a kg. In India, combed PC (65/35) weaving yarn prices for 30s were at US$2.75 a kg and 20s were at US$2.66 a kg. PV weaving (65/35) yarns prices were at US$2.87 a kg, up US cent 1 from last month. In Pakistan, PC (65/35) 20s in Faisalabad market was at US$2.81 a kg while 30s was at US$3.16 a kg, both down US cents 6 from last month.

YARN REPORT

NEWS

YNFX MONTHLY PRICEWATCH REPORT OCTOBER 2014

The Hon’ble Prime Minister of In-dia has inaugurated the ‘Make in India’ movement today at a gli ering func on in Vigyan Bhavan, New Delhi. 25 sectors have been iden fi ed for giving a thrust under the ‘Make in India’ Programme. The Tex le sector is one of the sectors so iden fi ed.

Shri R.K Dalmia, Chairman, Texpro-cil in a statement today welcomed the recogni on of Tex le Sector as a sector capable of contribu ng to the ‘Make in India’ Movement.

He pointed out that there are many features of the tex le sector which have not been widely appreciated and are also li le known. Some of these are

The sector has very low overhead as compared to the other industries.

It prac ces the concept of lean man-ufacturing.

The tex le industry has the young-est machines on its shop fl oor, even when compared to China, Pakistan, Vietnam, Indonesia and other tex le expor ng countries.

The machines are also operated by well trained technicians at 30% or higher opera ng speeds when com-pared to mills in China.Shri Dalmia also pointed out that

the tex le industry is ideally placed to be the engine of future growth for cre-a ng crores of jobs, promo ng inclusive growth and investments in Tier 2 and Tier 3 ci es thereby contribu ng to crea on of ‘Smart Ci es’ as envisioned by the Hon’ble Prime Minister.

The tex le sector eminently met all these objec ves and should get the

higher levels of export benefi ts as it will promote labour intensive growth in the country. He pointed out that for every 1 Billion Dollar (USD) exports, 100,000 (1 Lakh) jobs are being created in the tex le sector.

Shri Dalmia also stated that in order to give impetus to the Hon’ble Prime Minister’s ‘Look East and Link West’ policy the Government should expedite the signing of the Indo-EU Free Trade Agreement which will give greater ac-cess to tex le products in the west-ern markets and simultaneously seek reduc on of du es in China for value added fabrics and home tex le items which will strengthen India’s es in the east. This will reduce the trade defi cit with China which is pegged at US$ 34 billion and increase India’s exports by an addi onal US$ 3 billion.

MAKE IN INDIA

th thDate: 11 to 13 October, 2014

Venue: Sumatex Limited Compound, Opp. V.S. International School, Pur Road, Bhilwara-311001

Organizer name : Mirror Events Management

Contact details: www.temtech.in

Exhibitors Profile : Manufacturer of textile Machinery

TEMTECH

Date: 29th Oct to 31st Oct 2014

Venue: Jaipur Exhibition & Convention Centre, Sitapura Industrial Area, Jaipur,

Organizer name : FICCI

Contact details: www.vastratex.com

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Fashion Yarn, Fabric, Garment

VASTRA 2014 BY FICCI

Date : 3rd & 4th November, 2014

Venue : Dubai World Trade Center, Dubai, UAE

Organizer Name : NB Events & Exhibitions

Contact Details : www.internationaltextilefair.com

Exhibitors Profile : Manufacturer of Fabrics

Date: 21st to 23rd November, 2014

Venue: Milan Mela, Kolkatta

Organizer name : Vardaan Events

Contact details: www.vardaanevents.in

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacture of

Date: 10th – 13th December, 2014

Venue: Exhibition Center, Helipad Ground, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad

Organizer name: ITMACH INDIA

Contact details: www.itmach.com

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacture of Textile Machinery

Date: 10th to 12th December, 2014

Venue: Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai

Organizer name : Reed Manch Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd.

Contact details: www.indiacompositesshow.com

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Technical textiles

ITF (INTERNTIONAL TEXTILE FAIR 2014)

GARKNIT – X

ITMACH 2014

INDIA COMPOSITES SHOW 2014

Date : 9th- 12th January, 2015

Venue : Codissia Trade Fair Complex, Coimbatore

Organizer Name : SIMA

Contact Details : www.simamills.org

Exhibitors Profile : Manufacture of Textile Machinery

Date: 20th – 22nd Jan 2015


Organizer name : ITME Society

Contact details: http://india-itme.com/GTTES2015

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacture of Textile Machinery

Date : 28th & 29th Jan 2015

Venue : Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai

Organizer : CMAI

Contact detail : http://www.cmai.in/cmai-fairs-events

Exhibitors profile : Manufacturer of Domestic Garment Brands

Date : 28th -30th Jan 2015

Venue : Pragati Maidan, New Delhi

Organiser : AEPC

Contact detail: http://www.textrendsindiafair.com/

Exhibitors Profile : Manufacturer/ Exporter of Garment for International Market.

Date: 6th to 9th February, 2015

Venue: Hi-Tech Tirupur Exhibition Center, Tirupur

Organizer name : Hi Tech Tradefair

Contact details: www.hitechtradefairs.com

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Machinery

Date: 24th to 26th February, 2015

Venue: City of Cologne, Germany

Organizer name : the Filtech

Contact details: www.filtech.de

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Filtration fabric

TEXFAIR 2015

GTTES 2015- Focus Asia

NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR

TEX TREND

KNIT TECH 2015

FILTECH 2015

TRADESHOW DETAILS

F & A SHOW 2015

INFASHION 2015

TEXTILE EXPO 2015

NON WOVEN TECH ASIA 2015

Date: 12th to 14th March 2015

Venue: Trade Center, KTPO, Whitefield, Banglore

Organizer name : S.S. TEXTILE Media

Contact details: www.fnashow.in

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Fabrics and Home textiles

Date: 18th to 20th March, 2015


Organizer name : IMAGE Media

Contact details: www.indiainfashion.com

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Fashion Fabrics & International Brands.

Date : 20th to 22nd March, 2015

Venue : SIECC, Surat

Organizer Name : Textile Graph

Contact detail : www.textileexpo.in

Exhibitor's Profile : Manufacturer of Textile Machinery

Date: 5th- 7th June, 2015

Venue: Mahatma Mandir, Gandhi nagar, Gujarat

Organizer name : GUJNON & RADEECAL Communication

Contact details: www.nonwoventechasia.com

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacture of Non woven , Technical textile

CONFERENCE

Techtextil India Symposium

International Conference on Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

Indian Textiles – The Way Forward

Global Textile Congress

Home Fashion India Week

th70 All India Conference

th thDate: 16 -17 Oct, 2014Venue: Mumbai Organizer name: Messe FrankfurtContact details: [email protected]

Date: 6- 8 November, 2014Venue: IIT, Delhi Organizer name: Orange Zero Ltd.Contact details: www.innovationintextiles.com

thDate : 14 November, 2014Venue : The Lalit, Sahar Airport Road, Andheri ( East), MumbaiOrganizer name : Textile Association of India ( TAI)Contact Details : [email protected] / [email protected]

th thDate : 13 to 15 Feb, 2015Venue : Bangkok, ThailandOrganiser Name : Textile Association of India ( TAI)

th thDate : 12 & 13 March 2015Venue : Mumbai

th thDate : 17 & 18 January, 2014Venue : NagpurOrganizer : TAI- Vidarbha Unit

nd rdDate : 22 & 23 Jan 2015Venue : Indore, MadhyaPradeshOrganizer : MPACPT

International Cotton Conference ( Farm Fiber to Fabric)

For more updated details on Indian & international events kindly watch Trade Calender / Events on

www.textilevaluechain.com

IIFE - AHMEDABAD 2014

KNIT WORLD 2015

CHINA HOME LIFE INDIA 2014

WORKSHOP ON TEXTILE EDUCATION & EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITY

Date: 14th to 16th October 2014

Venue: Andaz Lawn, S.G. Raod Ahmedabad

Organizer name : Pdexcil

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Fabrics and Home textiles

Date: 4th to 7th January, 2015

Venue: Ludhiana

Contact details: www.knitworldexhibition.com

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of knit Wear Machinery

Date : 22th to 22nd November, 2014

Venue : Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai

Contact detail : www.chinahomelifeindia.com

Exhibitor's Profile : Manufacturer of Textile Fabrics

Date: 29th November 2014

Venue: CIRCOT , Mumbai

Organizer name : Fiber Society of India

Contact details: Mr. Gurjar- 9221271971 Mr. Nachane 9820680579

TRADESHOW DETAILS


73

ADVT.

76

Yes, I am interested

Contact Information :

Company Name:

Contact Person:

Address

Phone No.:

Mobile No.:

Email id:

Website:

Business Information :

Manufacturer

Trading Company

Dealer/Agent/Distributor

Retailer

Merchant Exporter/Importer

Service Provider

Consultant

Association/Council

Government Office

Education Institute

Research Center

Testing Center

TYPE OF ORGANIZATION :

VALUE CHAIN SEGMENT :

Fiber

Yam

Fabric

Processing

Garment

Machinery

Technical Textiles

Trimming

Fashion Accessories

Fashion Designer

Retail

Home Textile/Made Ups

Tel / Fax : +91-22-21026386 ; Cell: +91-9769442239;

Email : [email protected]

Webportal : www.textilevaluechain.com

Innovative Media and Information CompanyAddress: 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar

Ghatkopar (East) Mumbai - 400075Maharashtra, INDIA

Kindly Send Your Payment & Company Details to

Date :

Signature

Contact Person Name :

Previous Issues of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Magazine

Year Issues Achual Subscription

1Year 12 issue 1200 800

2 Year 24issue 2400 1500

3 Year 3 yaar 3600 2100

October- December 2014 33 76

