Session IV

TODAY’S DISCOVERIES:

Italian Wine Laws – DOC Italian wine regions Key grapes and styles Key terms History of wine in Spain Spanish wine laws Spanish wine laws Spanish wine regions Sherry

Some of the grape varieties used today have been in use for thousands of years

Italy is #1 or #2 in wine production in the world, depending on the year; it switches places every few years with France

Italy is a giant peninsula; it is the modifying influence of the Mediterranean and its river systems that make Italy such a large producer

Italian Wine Fun Facts

Italy has 20 wine regions, corresponding to its political regions Average vineyard size is 2 acres

Over 900,000 registered vineyards

Over 1,000 documented grape varieties

Most wine is made in cooperatives

More Italian Wine Fun Facts

The Italian Wine Law Pyramid Has two quality

levels; broken into two sub-levels

They are more regulated towards the top; the DOC and DOCG laws govern the area of production, grape varieties, maximum yield per hectare, degree of alcohol, vineyard practices, wine-making practices and aging requirements

Vino da Tavola (VDT) Table wines or wines without any specific geographic origin

VDT’s are not necessarily wines of lesser quality

They may just be wines that do not follow current Italian wine law (i.e. Super Tuscans)

No serious controls on grapes or what region they are from

Italian Wine Categories

Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) Table wines with a typical geographical indication

About 130 IGT’s; labeled on the seal around neckIGT is spelled out on the label

Lesser restrictions on soil, area of production, grapes, yield, techniques, aging or alcohol content Some controls on area within the

region and the grapes being used Leaves room for experimentation and innovation, some very good wines are made in this designation

Italian Wine Categories

Denominazione di Origine Controllata

(DOC) Translated as controlled denomination of origin

Regionally stylistic, with regional grapes

About 350 DOC’s in Italy, labeled on the seal around the neck (not a pink seal like the DOCG) DOC is spelled out on the label

Lesser restrictions on soil, area of production, grapes, yield, techniques, aging or alcohol content

Italian Wine Categories

Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)

Translated as controlled and guaranteed denomination of origin

Usually denotes the highest quality wines for Italy

All 41 DOCG’s have a pink (red) or green (white) seal around neck of bottle with DOCG written on it DOCG is spelled out on the label

Tested and analyzed by the government

Italian Wine Categories

Italy’s TwentyWine Regions

Home of two of Italy’s top red wines: Barolo and Barbaresco; very full-

bodied, tannic and best when aged several years

Equivalent to the best Bordeaux reds

Made from the Nebbiolo grape in a small cluster of villages (including their namesakes)

Located in Southeastern Piemonte

Slight differences in microclimates make for slightly different wines

Piemonte (Piedmont)

Barolo must be aged a total of three years between barrel and bottle, five years for Riserva

Barbaresco must be aged a total of two years between barrel and bottle; four for Riserva

Other Wines of note: Dry: Gatinnara and Gavi di Gavi Sweet Sparkling: Brachetto

D’Aqui & Asti Grape Varietals of note:

Red: Nebbiolo, Barbera & Dolcetto White: Moscato, Cortese & Arneis

Piemonte Due

Veneto One of Italy’s largest wine producers Many of its wines are thin and of low-

quality, but the ones that are good can be very good!

Raisinated Corvina grapes produce Amarone

Home of Prosecco, one of Italy’s most popular Spumantes (sparkling wines); used for the Bellini

Produces Italy’s most widely exported wines: White: Soave and Red:

Valpolicella Both are made in varying

quality levels

Tre Venezie (The 3 Venices)

Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (a.k.a. Friuli)

Was part of the Austria until 1866 and still retains its cultural influences

About half of Friuli’s production is red wine, but it is renown for its whites, especially its Pinot Grigios

White grapes: Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Friuli, which was formerly known as Tokay

Red grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Schioppettino

Tre Venezie (The 3 Venices)

Trentino - Alto-Adige Two provinces:

Trentino is Italian-speaking Alto-Adige is German-speaking

Was part of Austria until after WW1 Wines often labeled in both German

and Italian Red grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Langrein, Merlot and other natives

White grapes: Chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau, Nosiola, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio

Tre Venezie (The 3 Venices)

Home of three of Italy's most important red wines: Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Most important grape in this region is Sangiovese

Super Tuscans emerged from a revolution in wine making methods and resistance to required grapes

In the 1970’s and 80’s, there was a backlash against the declining popularity of traditional Chianti

Some winemakers began making wines of superb quality from Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot

Tuscany

White Grapes: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Vernaccia, Malvasia and Trebbiano, which is known as Ugni Blanc in France and Palomino in Spain

Tuscany Due

Home of a highly-prized dessert wine called Vin Santo, made from dried Nosiola grapes using the same Passito method as Veneto’s Amarone di Valpolicella

The Nosiola grapes are laid out on straw mats and kept in warm, well-ventilated rooms that allow the moisture in the grape to evaporate The longer the grapes are allowed to dry and desiccate, the higher the resulting residual sugar levels in the wine; they may be dried up to 6 months Producers may use a starter culture known as a madre that includes a small amount of finished Vin Santo from previous years production It is believed that this older wine can help jump-start fermentation and add complexity to the wine

Vin Santo

Traditionally, the aging barrels were made of chestnut instead of oak, which contributed high amounts of wood tannins and was very porous, promoting excessive evaporation in the barrel As a result of this same traditional aging method, a large ullage (air space) emerges in the barrel and oxidation takes place, giving the wine its characteristic amber color as well as flavors and traits that may be characterized as faults The wine is aged for 3 to 5 years in the barrel

Vin Santo Due

Towards the end of the 20th century, more produces began switching to oak barrels while maintaining the tradition of not topping-up the barrels and filling in the ullage space This “Angel's Share” still produces some level of oxidation, though not as severe as the style that was traditionally made Modern winemaking techniques also call for more temperature control; keeping the wine in rooms with a consistent temperature promotes fresher flavors in the wine and fewer faults

Vin Santo Tre

Chianti Main Zone: Chianti Classico is its own DOCG region

Red grapes: Sangiovese (between 75% - 100%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot

White grapes: Trebbiano, Malvasia Other Sub-Zones:

Chianti Rufina, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Aretini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, and Chianti Montalbano

All use the same grapes and make similar wines of varying quality

Tuscany’s Notable Reds

Brunello di Montalcino Uses the Brunello clone of the Sangiovese grape Brunellos are very age-able wines, some

have been opened after 100 years and were allegedly still good

Vino Nobile di MontepulcianoMade in and around the town of

Montepulciano from the Prugnolo Gentile clone of Sangiovese

The wines are of moderate qualityNot to be confused with the

Montepulciano grape, which is planted in Central/Southern Italy

Tuscany’s Notable Reds

Liguria Not a major wine producer; consuming mostly local grapes

Red grapes: Ormeasco (Dolcetto), and Dolceacqua, which is used in Rabbit Braised with Olives; a famous regional dish

White grapes: Vermentino, Bosco, and Alborola

Emilia-Romagna Italy’s primary food region: Home of Parmigiano-Reggiano, Balsamic Vinegar, and Prosciutto di Parma

White grapes: Albana di Romagna Red grapes: Sangiovese Lambrusco: A spritzy purplish wine made from local grapes

Umbria Red wines of note: Torgiano Rossa Riserva (Sangiovese, Canaiolo & Trebbiano)

Sangrantino di Montefalco, using the Sangrantino grape

White grape: Orvieto; makes a crisp, slightly peachy white

Abruzzi Major volume wine producer, but few quality wines

The exception being Montepulciano d’Abbruzo Made from the Montepulciano grape, it is

one of Italy’s best wine values with large amounts exported to the U.S.

Not the same as Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, which is a Tuscan wine made from Sangioveise

White wine: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (Bombino Bianco)

Campania, Apulia, Basilicata, & Calabria

Italy’s southern-most regions Hot climate, lots of poverty, both of which lead to high-volume production of lower quality wines

Most of the wine is made by cooperatives

Red: Aglianico, Negroamaro, Uva di Troia & Primitivo There is speculation as to whether

Primitivo, also thought to be Croatia’s Plavatz Mali, is the original Zinfandel

White: Famous for Falanghina, a white varietal which was the favorite of the Romans; of Greek origin

Sicily Sicily’s most notable wine is Marsala, produced in the region surrounding the city of the same name Sicily is also home to some great Nero d’Avola wines Marsala, which first received DOC status in 1969, is a fortified wine similar to Port, Madeira and Sherry Originally, Marsala wine was fortified to ensure that it would last long ocean voyages, but now it is made that way because of its popularity in foreign markets Marsala contains about 15-20% alcohol by volume Different Marsala wines are classified according to their color, sweetness and the duration of their aging

The 3 levels of sweetness in Marsala: Secco (Dry)

Semisecco (Medium-Dry) Dolce (Sweet)

The Color Classifications: Oro has a golden color Ambra has an amber color The coloring comes from the mosto

cotto (cooked grape must); a sweetener added to the wine

Rubino has a ruby color, made from red grape varieties such as Perricone, Calabrese, Nero d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese

The Marsala Aging Classifications

Marsala was traditionally served as an apéritif between the first and second courses of a

meal. Contemporary diners will serve it chilled with Parmesan, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, and

other spicy cheeses; with fruits or pastries, or at room-temperature as a dessert wine.

Marsala is sometimes discussed with another Sicilian wine, Passito di Pantelleria (Pantelleria

Island's passito-method raisinated wine).

Fine: Has minimal aging, typically less than a year

Superiore: Aged at least 2 years

Superiore Riserva: Aged at least 4 years

Vergine a.k.a. Soleras: Aged at least 5 years

Vergine a.k.a. Soleras Stravecchio/Riserva: Aged at least 10 yrs.

So, what is

the story of

the grape

stomping?

Grape-Stomping Also known as pigeage, grape-stomping has been around almost as long as wine and has certain advantages When in the vat treading the grapes, one can feel the clumps and break them up, avoiding hot spots in the must, the feet having a different motion than the mechanical crusher/de-stemmer, which is essentially a giant auger The down-side, is that foot-treading is much slower and more labor intensive. Cockburns is one winery (Port) who still stomp their grapes, but most wine regions today have outlawed it for health reasons Grape stomps occur country-wide at local festivals and winery events, but the juice isn't used to make wine; it's just for fun!

Vocabulary to Understand Italian Wines

Tenementi: EstateVendemmia: VintageRiserva: Aged (usually over 3 yrs.)Imbottigliato: Estate-bottledFiasco: FlaskBianco: WhiteRosso: Red

Nero: Very dark redRosato: PinkAmaro: Bitter or very dryDolce: Very sweetCantina: Cellar or wineryCotto: ConcentratedVino Liquoroso: Fortified Wines

Grapes grown in Spain for over 5,000 years!

More land planted with vineyards then anywhere else in the world

Approximately 3.5 million acres and ranks third in wine production in the world

Has a large number of old, low-yielding vines planted on dry, infertile land

Until recently, Spain was known for low-quality wine and its fortified Sherries, but modern techniques and equipment have set Spain on a path to producing excellent wines

Spanish Wine Fun Facts

Diverse environment means Spain produces a wide variety of wines:

Light, dry white wines from the cool Atlantic region in the northeast

Dry, full-bodied red wines from the north central highlands

Heavy, high-alcohol red wines from the eastern plains and the Mediterranean south

Fortified wines from the sun-baked southwest

More Spanish Wine Fun Facts

Vino de Mesa (VdM) These are wines that are the equivalent of most country's table wines and are made from unclassified vineyards or grapes that have been declassified through "illegal" blending Similar to the Italian Super Tuscans from the late 20th century, some Spanish winemakers will intentionally declassify their wines so that they have greater flexibility in blending and winemaking methods

Spanish Wine Categories

Vinos de la Tierra (VdlT) This level is similar to France's Vin de Pays system, normally corresponding to the larger Comunidad Autonóma geographical regions and will appear on the label with broader geographical designations like Andalucía, Castilla La Mancha and Levante

Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD)

This level is similar to France's Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure (VDQS) system and is considered a stepping-stone towards DO status

Spanish Wine Categories

Denominación de Origen (DO) This level is for the mainstream quality-wine regions which are regulated by the Consejo Regulador who is also responsible for marketing the wines of that DO In 2005, nearly two-thirds of the total vineyard area in Spain was within the boundaries of a DO region

Spanish Wine Categories

Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa)

This designation, which is similar to Italy's Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) designation, is for regions with a track record of consistent quality and is meant to be a step above DO level Rioja was the first region afforded this designation in 1991 and was followed by Priorat in 2003, and Ribera del Duero in 2008

Spanish Wine Categories

But what really designates Spanish wines is the aging! Spanish wines are often labeled according to the amount of aging the wine has received. When the label says Vino Joven (Young Wine) or Sin Crianza, the wines will have undergone very little, if any, wood aging Depending on the producer, some of these wines will be meant to be consumed very young; often within a year of their release. Others will benefit from some bottle-aging For the vintage year (Vendimia or Cosecha) to appear on the label, a minimum of 85% of the grapes must be from that year's harvest The three most common aging designations on Spanish wine labels are Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva

Crianza Red wines are aged for 2 years with at least 6 months in oak. Crianza whites and rosés must be aged for at least 1

year with at least 6 months in oak.

Reserva Red wines are aged for at least 3 years

with at least 1 year in oak. Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 2 years with at least 6 months in

oak.

Gran Reserva From above-average vintages with reds aged at least 5 yrs.; 18 months in oak and a minimum of 36 months in the

bottle. Gran Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 yrs. with at

least 6 months in oak.

Other Spanish aging terms that you may

encounter…

Vino Noble (Noble Wine) Indicating a minimum of 18 months

aging either in barrel or in the bottle.

Vino Añejo (Aged Wine) Indicating a minimum of 24 months

aging either in barrel or in the bottle.

Vino Viejo (Old Wine) Indicating a minimum of 36 months aging in an oxidative environment including exposure to light, heat,

and oxygen.

Spanish wines are often aged in oak “Barricas”

Spain’s 17Wine Regions

White Riojas can be awful stuff, but there is some good white wine to be found in Spain. In Galícia, the most north-western part of Spain, Rias Baixas can be very drinkable. The wines are made from the Albariño grape, and many are cold-fermented to maintain freshness, the antithesis of old-style Rioja whites.

Further to the east, and just a little south, is Rueda. The reputation of this DO once rested on the Sherry-like wines it produced, but it is now the home of some more examples of good Spanish whites made from the Verdejo grape.

Spain’s North: Galícia & Rueda

Further across is the Ribera del Duero, a region of vineyards situated around the Duero River, which, as it flows west through Portugal, becomes the Douro, home to the vineyards that give rise to Port

Despite Rioja's reputation, it is Ribera del Duero that is home to Spain's most expensive wine produced by Vega Sicilia

There are some splendid wines to be had in this region, based on a mixture of international (Cabernet Sauvignon) and indigenous (Tempranillo) grapes

Spain’s North: Ribera del Duero

Further east, and back to the north, is Rioja The epitome of fine red Spanish wine for generations, many Riojas can still be superb Styles vary; from easy-drinking Crianzas (some Reservas), to the Reservas and Gran Reservas of top estates which mature and improve for decades The grape of note is the Tempranillo, although there are some plantings of lesser grapes, including Garnacha Tinta (known as Grenache in France)

Spain’s North: Rioja

Rioja is divided up into three regions: Rioja Alta is by far the most important Also the name of one of the top estates

Rioja Alavesa produces some drinkable wines Rioja Baja is less-known for quality wines

Rioja Parte Dos

Spain’s Northeast: Navarra & Priorato

Just to the northeast is Navarra, often cited as an up and coming rival to Rioja Moving across to the Mediterranean coast there are a number of DO regions, such as Priorato and Somontano, which for many years produced nothing of great interest Quite recently, however, Priorato has been making waves, with big, age-worthy and exciting wines from the likes of Clos Mogador and Clos Erasmus

Spain’s Northeast: Penedès

Penedès is also worthy of mention, not least because it is home to Torres, one of Spain's most well known wine makers This company, led by Miguel Torres, produces a vast array of styles using a number of indigenous and international grapes, from sparkling Cava through to Gran Reserva reds They also have related outposts in Chile (Miguel Torres) and California (Marimar Torres)

Just one region dominates Central Spain, and that is La Mancha This is a vast million acre DO, which relies on Airén for its whites, and Cencibel (another name for Tempranillo, just to confuse you) and Garnacha Tinta (Grenache), among others, for its reds It has been predicted that La Mancha was going to be the next big success story, following in the footsteps of the Napa Valley and Coonawarra

Central Spain: La Mancha

Just to the south of La Mancha is Valdepeñas, a red wine region, much less important than Rioja or the Ribera del Duero, which produces a few drinkable wines Some of the best producers are using oak-aging to add more appeal to their wines

Further to the east are the DO’s of Almansa, Valencia, Alicante, Jumilla, Yecla and Utiel-Requena Some good-value wines to be found here

Central Spain: Valdepeñas

This is the home of Sherry, produced from a small region around the town of Jerez Sherry is made principally from the Palomino and Pedro Ximénez grapes, with a splash of Moscatel The grapes are harvested and fermented in the normal way, but the wines are then left in contact with air for a prolonged period of time Some will simply oxidize, whereas some develop a coating of Flor, a thick layer of yeast on the surface, which imparts a distinctive flavor

Southern Spain: Jerez

The wines then pass through a Solera system, a tier of barrels containing wine of differing ages, oldest at the bottom and youngest at the top The wine in the lowest barrel is drawn-off and bottled; each barrel is then topped-up with wine from the one above This maintains a steady stream of wine of similar character year after year, and explains why sherry is almost never vintage dated

Southern Spain: Jerez

The Sherry Solera Syste

m

Fino is a very light, bone-dry and delicate Sherry that is characterized by Flor. It often contains 15 to 18% of alcohol

Manzanilla comes from the Sanlucar district along the sea coast. The sea-air leads the Sherry to develop a salty taste. These wines also have Flor and are produced using the same process as Fino, but as weather conditions are very different in Sanlucar, it develops into a slightly different kind of wine, often containing 15 to 19% alcohol

Amontillado is similar to Fino, without as much Flor development. It is deeper in color and sweeter than Fino and is barrel-aged longer; it often contains 16 to 22% of alcohol

Sherry Categories

Oloroso Sherry is deeper/darker in color and has more residual sugar. It is more fortified, and often contains 17 to 22% alcohol

Cream Sherry is very rich and can be a good dessert-style wine. It often contains 15.5 to 22% of alcohol

Pedro Ximénez is a very rich dessert-style wine made from raisins of Pedro Ximénez grapes dried in the sun. It often contains around 18% of alcohol

Palo Cortado is very rare, as it is an Oloroso wine that ages in a different, natural way not achievable by human intervention. It often contains 17 to 22% of alcohol.

Sherry Categories

And then, there is Cava!

Cava is a Spanish sparkling wine made using the French Méthode

Champenoise

Originated in Spain’s Catalonia region at the Codorníu Winery in the late 19th century

The wine was originally known as Champaña until Spanish producers officially adopted the term "Cava" (Cellar) in 1970, in reference to the under-ground cellars in which the wines ferment and age in the bottle

Cava is Spain’s Sparkling Wine The early Cava industry was

nurtured by the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century, which caused the destruction and up-rooting of vineyards planted with red grape varieties With the success of Champagne, Codorníu and others encouraged vineyard owners to re-plant with white grape varieties like Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel·lo, which are still the primary grapes of Cava today; some producers are experimenting with the use of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Cava DO Regions For most of its existence, Cava production was not regulated to a particular region of DO, but rather to the grapes and method of production Upon acceptance into the European Union in 1986, Spain moved to designate Cava production regions Today, use of the term "Cava" is restricted to production around select municipalities in Catalonia, Aragon, Castile and León, Valencia, Extremadura, Navarra, the Basque Country, and Rioja 95% of Spain's Cava production is from Catalonia, with the village of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia being home to many of Spain's largest production houses

Reading a Spanish Wine Label

Wine #1Vintage: 2011 Name: Pinot GrigioProducer: Ca’ Donini Delle VenezieRegion: Venezie, Italy

Wine #2Vintage: 2011 Name: Poggio Vignoso-SangioveseProducer: BibbiabiRegion: Chianti, Italy

Wine # 3Vintage: 2008 Name: Cinque Passi,NegroamaroProducer: MenhirRegion: Puglia, Italy

Wine # 4Vintage: 2006Name: Gran Reserva, Tempranillo, aged 10 yearsProducer: Anciano Region: Valdepeñas, Spain

Now, let’s see what the professionals

say and what went into making these

wines!

A pure Pinot Grigio from northern Italy vinified in in temperature controlled stainless steel vats. Pale gold in color. A distinctive bouquet of wild flowers and hints of honey and a palate of crisp apples. Dry, crisp, and refreshing on the palate. Beautifully balanced to compliment a wide range of foods from white meats, shellfish, and freshwater.

2011 Ca’ Donini Delle Venezie, Pinot Grigio, Italy

Fattoria Bibbiani is an old school wine estate, with a history of at least 1300 years. It has been with the Donato family for over 150 and is located 20 kilometres west of Florence on the bank of the Arno river. This is an interesting winery that has championed such projects as varietally bottling a unique clone of Sangiovese (Pulignano) that only exists on their estate. Bibbiani makes their Chianti with neutral methods, seeking simple purity of fruit. Techniques include: spurred cordon trained vines, stainless steel maceration and fermentation, and Slavonian oak aging in 10 year old barrels. The soils are limestone, clay and sandstone. Production is about 5,000 cases.

Abundant, easily expressible cherry and strawberry fruit elide attempts at complexification. This is charming, free wheeling wine: clean, pure, simple and delicious. It also happens to be rockin’ tasty with pretty sweet fruit, leather and medium body. Perfectly suited for high acid pastas, pizza and anything with tomatos. In many wine lover’s search for greatness, they can miss the inimitable basic purity of a wine like this Chianti.

13% ABV. Blend: 85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo & 5% Malvasia

2011 Bibbiabi, Poggio Vignoso, Chianti, Italy

SOIL: Shallow red soil on layers of calcareous rock

WINEMAKING PROCESSES AND REFININGPre-fermentary maceration, temperature controlled fermentation, refining in steel tanks

COLOR: Ruby-red

TASTE: Pleasant, aromatic

BOUQUET: Vanilla, blueberries and spices

2008 Menhir, Cinque Passi, Negroamaro, Puglia, Italy

2006 Anciano, Gran Reserva Tempranillo,

5 Years, Valdepeñas, Spain

Color: Dark ruby shading to brick redNose: Spicy notes of leather and vanillaPalate: Fruit compote and licoriceFinish: Long, & velvety

The Tempranillo grapes were hand-picked from 25 year old vines in stony Valdepeñas vineyards. The soil is clayey-lime and the climate continental - cold winters and hot, dry summers. The growers take care to harvest to achieve optimum ripeness while maintaining good acidity.