Stays to Corsets- The understructure of the 19th and Early 20th Century

Joshua PostonPeriod StylesSpring 2015

The Fashionable Silhouette

1800-1840

High Waisted

Waist Peaks in 1815

Gussets added in 1820’s both to Bust then hips, this replaces tabs

Waist continues to fall to natural in late 1820’s

Metal Eyelets Invented 1823

Quilting and Cording

1840-1860

Waist continues to fall a bit

1848 The Front Fastening Busk is Invented

In 1850 the exaggerated skirt results in a wider overall waist being acceptable

1868 Steam Moulding- Starching and Steaming at High Temperature for Permanent Shape

60-100 Bones Possible

1870-1890

The Small Waisted Hourglass Figure

1873 The Spoon Busk is Invented

Average 30 bones

1900-1910

Eduardian Corsetry

Introduction of suspenders

Spirella Invented

Use of Straight Busk for Health. However Hips and Lower Back are Pushed backward

The “Gibson Girl”

Tighter Waist to maintain appearance of late 1800’s proportions but big shoulder clothing was now out

1910-1920

Elastic Inserts Allow Movement

Reach down to thighs

12-20 Bones

Additional Variations

1908

Additional Info The Profile of late

Corsets In the 1920’s the corset

gradually became the forerunner of the modern girdle

Additionally early Bra’s were meant to flatten the Breasts.

Rather than having one comprehensive understructure women now chose one of two undergarments to modify their figure

Works Cited"Corset History." Corset History. Originals by Kay, n.d. Web. 12 Apr. 2015.

"Corsets - A History Lesson - 1800's to 1920's." Festooned Butterly, 09 July 2013. Web. 12 Apr. 2015.

"Corsets Early 19th Century - Edwardian." Vintage Fashion Guild : Lingerie Guide : Corsets Early 19th Century. N.p., n.d. Web. 13 Apr. 2015.

Flecker, Lara. "A Practical Guide to Costume Mounting." Google Books. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Apr. 2015.

Hicks, Lisa. "Everything You Know About Corsets Is False." Collectors Weekly. N.p., n.d. Web. 10 Apr. 2015.

"A Short History of the Corset." A Short History of the Corset. N.p., n.d. Web. 13 Apr. 2015.

"Spoon Busk." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 Apr. 2015.