Seed-Starting - Dig It, Drill It, Dump It

Seed-StartingIndependence Gardens

Portland, OR

Download the handout that goes along with

this slideshow!h!p://bit.ly/xnpYix

January 2012© Independence Gardens LLC

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Topics We’ll Cover• What is a seed?• How does it work, & what

does it need?• Why start seeds indoors?• When/where/how to plant• Making a seed-starting setup• Best seeds for seed-starting

and where to get them• Seedling care

What We’ll Cover TodayPreview

Got Questions? Please ask as we go along.

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Seed: A mature fertilized plant ovule consisting of an embryo and its food source and having a protective coat or testaOr…: A potential plant, dormant until it experiences the right conditions, when it uses the energy it has stored to grow until it can photosynthesize

What is a seed?

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

How does it work?

• Cotyledons (cot-ull-EE-

dons) come !rst• "en, look for “true” (foliage) leaves• Germ time

depends on plant, seed quality, etc. Plant parts exercise!

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

• Cost– It’s generally cheaper to start your own

• Save and share seed; store seed properly so you can use it for a few years

• Timing– It’s easy to get a jump-start on the season, stagger plantings, and

grow mega-veggies!

• Reliability– It’s hard to know where your starts were before they came to

you…unless you grew them

Why start seeds indoors?

Alternatives: Starting seeds outside with season-extenders (cloches and cold frames) or #oating row covers (reemay); buying plants as starts to transplant later in the season.

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

What does a seed need?

• Growing medium– Soilless seed-starting mix is recommended

• Garden soil is heavy and can harbor disease organisms– Seed must be in !rm contact with the soil all around it

• Warmth– Consistency is key (avoid #uctuations)– Most cool-season veggies will germinate at room temp– On the other hand, warm-season plants (tomatoes, peppers,

cukes, eggplant, okra, squashes, or melons) need temps of 75°-90° to germinate, and a$er that, like to hang out between 60° and 75°

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

What (else) does a seed need?• Moisture

– Water from below so soil is damp, not soaking

– Damping-off ( ) is a fungal problem associated with soil that is too wet!

• Light– As soon as it emerges– 14 hrs./day (in 2011, the !rst day this

happens without supplemental light: April 25)

– Automation: light timers are lovely• Air#ow

– Plants get “leggy” ( ) if there’s not enough air movement/light’s far away

• Space & time

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

• Find your last frost date

~April 15, in Portland• Count backward an appropriate length of time!

– Varies by plant; check seed packet and planting calendar

When to plant

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

• Last frost date is 4/15• Broccoli is safe to set out 4 weeks before to 2-3

weeks a$er last frost date• It takes 6 to 8 weeks to get to transplant size• 4 weeks before 4/15 is 3/18 & 3 weeks a$er is 5/6

= Plant (3/18 minus 8 wks.) to (5/6 minus 6 wks.)= Sow seeds indoors 1/21-3/25

• Our best advice: STAGGER YOUR PLANTINGS

When to plant example: broccoli

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

• Choose your own container– Needs to be well-drained, so poke drainage holes if the

setup doesn’t have them already– Err on the side of shallow

• You can transplant to a larger container before transplanting out to the garden ( “up-po&ing,” or “po&ing up”)

– Sanitize pots if you are reusing

• 10% bleach solution/15 min.

Where to plant

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

• Use materials you have on hand– Bookshelves– Utility shelves– Shop lights

Make a seed-starting setup

• Lights – Light sets

2-4 in. above growing tips

– Moveable to !t different varieties

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

• Depends on the size of the seed: plant at a depth ~2x the seed diameter– Dig: make a hole, drop in the seed, and cover it up– Drill: the !nger-poke method

• For larger seeds: put the seed atop unpacked soil, and poke it in up to your !rst knuckle

– Dump: the sprinkle method • For smaller seeds: shake a few out of

the seed packet onto the soil

– Other methods ()

How to plant: dig, drill, dump!

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

• Brassicas– Kale– Cabbage– Chinese cabbage– Broccoli– Cauli#ower– Brussels sprouts

Your best bets

• Nightshades– Tomatoes– Peppers– Eggplants

NOTE: You can try to start just about anything early indoors!just try to take extra-good care of them…and hedge your bets by planting some outside, too.

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Not your best bets

• Root vegetables– Radishes– Carrots– Beets– Turnips– Parsnips

• Peas• Beans• Corn• Dill

• Cucurbits– Cucumbers– Squash

• Winter (e.g. pumpkins) and summer (e.g. zucchini)

– Melons

• Fussy greens– Spinach– Swiss chard

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Caring for your plant-babies

• Light– 2-4 in. above plants, 14 hrs./day

• Water– From below

• Organic fertilizer– A$er true leaves appear

• Brushing or fanning– Make ‘em stocky!

• "inning– Do it (down to 1 plant/cell)

• Hardening off– Acclimatize

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

And !nally…

• Focus on organic, heirloom, and especially local varieties – Healthy seeds, diverse characteristics, suited for

cultivation here• An insider’s tip on where to get seeds this season:

–www.SabinGardens.org

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Next steps for you!

• Take the handouts home and !ll out the date ranges for planting

– Just your favorites to save time/energy

• Look through your seeds/seed catalogues and select your top picks

• Make a plan: put your seeding dates on your garden calendar

• Logistics: set up your seed-starting area before you need it

• Put your plan into action!

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Questions?

Tuesday, January 31, 2012