The new product development process for cosmetics, Toiletries, Insecticides, & Household...

The Product Development

Process

Cosmetics, Toiletries, Insecticides, Household

Cleaning Products

Steps in The Product Development Process

Ideation Developing Product Specifications Market and Product Planning Concept and Prototype Generation Product Registration Packaging Design Further Formulation Development

Steps in the Product Development Process (Cont.)

Manufacturing System Design Review Packaging and Formulation Marketing Review Test Market (Optional) Refining of Product Before Major

Launch Major Launch

The Ideation Process

Definition: The process of conceptualizing a

new idea for manifestation into a new product

Corporate Sources of Ideation Observation of products in the domestic market Observation of products in overseas markets Trade Magazines Supplier Submissions Internet Trade shows and conferences

Corporate Sources of Ideation Lateral Thinking a) Adaptation from other ideas (aircraft toilets) b) Ideas from handicraft markets (candles) c) Observation of everyday consumer problems (some insecticides) d) Adaptation from an existing industrial product (disinfectants)

Lateral Thinking (Cont.)

e) Correctly identified changes in consumer lifestyles (bath &

shower gels, liquid soaps, insecticides) f) Correctly perceived changing

consumer tastes (‘green products’)

Corporate Sources of Ideation

New Government regulation in regards to product registrations, toxicity, occupational health and safety

(Disinfectants, Insecticides, herbicides)

Individual Sources of Ideation Observations in everyday life Trade magazines Patent summaries Ideas from friends Overseas trips New raw materials launched on the

market by suppliers Ethnobotancial literature

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Examples from Ideation

Influence on Mainstream Industry

Mainstream Products from Handicraft beginnings

Mainstream Products from Handicraft beginnings

Mainstream Products from Handicraft beginnings

Mainstream Products from Handicraft beginnings

Mainstream Products from Handicraft beginnings

Ethnobotany

Products Developed from Ethnobotany

Products Developed from Ethnobotany

Products Developed from Ethnobotany

The Chemist and Ideation Development chemists are facilitators

for the marketing organisation Very few chemists submit new ideas The realism of the situation is that new

products are dependent upon the work of the chemist (whether internal or external to the organisation)

Dispelling The Myths of New Product Development Less than 5% of new products launched on the

market are successful Out of 100 new ideas, less than 2 become a

commercial reality Most companies are followers and not

innovators (even the Body Shop) Very few really novel innovations are ever

launched commercially Most new products are incremental steps in

enhancement, rather than something completely new (similar to the automobile industry)

Vanilla Breakthrough?

Catatonic Breakthrough?

To Soap or not to Soap?

Auto Breakthrough?

Developing Product Specifications

Objective

To develop an idea into a list of criteria that can be developed into a tangible product

Developing Product Specifications Project confirmed through a briefing by a

product manager - will provide a product profile (wish list) - Chemists, packaging designers and

manufacturing engineers will advise what can be achieved and what cannot be achieved

- Constraints will be advised, manufacturing capability, budgets, etc.

Developing Product Specifications

Chemists will determine: a) Required functional aspects of

required product b) Ascetic functions of required

new product c) Determine feasibility of

formulating required new product

Developing Product Specifications

One method of developing product specifications is to look at the new product as a system and define individually each required function of the product

The Product System ProfileShampoo System ProfileFunction Potential Material

Primary surfactant ALS, ALES, TLS, SLES, NaDOBSSecondary surfactant/ Coconut MEA, Foam Stabiliser Cocamide MEA, Cocamidopropyl Betaine or

aminePacifier/Pearliser Ethylene Glycol Distearate, Glycol StearateViscosity Control Sodium chloridePreservatives Potassium Sorbate, Diazolidonyl urea, Methyl and Propyl ParabensFunctional Additives GuarHydroxypropyl Trimmonium Chloride Panthenol, Dimethicone, Hydrolysed Keratin ProteinFragrance YesAscetic Ingredients Aloe Vera, Green Tea Extract, PanthenolDyes Yes

The Product System Profile Laundry Detergent PowderFunction Potential materialPrimary Surfactant Non-Ionic, APESecondary Surfactant Anionic, LASFoam Builder CDEBuilders Sodium Tripolyphosphate, Zeolites, Sodium CarbonateBleaches Sodium PercarbonateAnti-Corrosive Sodium MatasilicateDispersing CMCFabric Conditioners QAC, ClaysStain Removers Enzymes Optical brighteners TinapalsFree flowing Agents Sodium SulphateFragrance YesDye Yes

Market and Product Planning A Product Manager will be appointed to

oversee the project development. Responsibilities: a) Branding (image) b) Packaging c) Product d) Budget projections advertising, promotion, sales e) Source of Production

Market and Product Planning The Development Chemist will report to the

product manager during this period and advise on:

a) Product compatibility with branding b) Review of existing products in market - both in terms of benefits they offer the consumer and standard of product c) Formulation compatibility with packaging d) Logistic considerations and effects on

product

Chemist MPP Considerations

Compatibility with Branding have to ensure the finished product

formulation reinforces the brand image the company wishes to market to consumers

- colour, odour, softness, efficacy, appearance, use of particular

material

Chemist MPP Considerations Review of Existing Products in the

Market Products already in the market will be

reviewed as to appearance, efficacy, odour, colour, image and benefits

This study will assist in determining what benefits of the new product will be highlighted in the marketing campaign

Chemist MPP Considerations Formulation is compatible with proposed

packagingA this point the product manager may already

have proposed packaging.Considerations here for the formulator are:a) Is the nature of the product compatible with

the proposed packaging?b) What product bulk densities will be required?c) Can the product be filled efficiently during

production?d) Will the proposed packaging effect product

stability?

Choices of Packaging Materials

Choices of Packaging Materials

Choices of Packaging Materials

Choices of Packaging Materials

Choices of Packaging Materials

Chemist MPP Considerations

Logistic considerations are very important to the formulation of a product. Many retail outlets are open and suffer very harsh temperature variations, which may not be very kind to many different types of products, especially emulsions

Logistic Considerations

Logistic Considerations

Concept and Prototype Generation Concept and Prototype Considerations a) Can the product meet organisational

expectations? b) If not, what compromises are

acceptable? c) Where can I source raw materials and

obtain good technical support? d) What type of product system is best

suited to the application? e) Can product objectives be achieved

within company unit cost expectations?

Concept and Prototype

Generation

Can the product meet organisational expectations? If not, what compromises are acceptable?

What is realistic? Period of negotiation and

explanation

Concept and Prototype Generation

Where can I source raw materials and obtain good technical support?

Selection of suppliers very important Price is not necessarily the most

important criteria in selecting a supplier

Suppliers can do a lot of your work

Concept and Prototype

Generation

What type of product system is best

suited to the application?

Different systems can create the same

product

Gel Type Air Freshener Systems

Gel Air Freshener SystemsCarrageenan CMC Di-limonene Co-polymers Hot heat reversible High grade CMC Sodium stearate/ Newly developedSystem, strengthened di-limonene soap co-polymersWith other gums

Easy to Manufacture Require very precise Easy to Manufacture Non-reversibleHot Process manufacturing Hot Process heat process proc. cold process Examples Kiwi Brands SC Johnsons Glade Various local car Japanese Brands/ products R&C Products

Cheap, versatile, Difficult manufacturing Does not dissipate Beautiful clear gels

Long term stability process, but can contain fully, grave expensive unit cost

Problems fine fragrances fragrance limitations

Formulation Systems Johnson & Johnson Clean & Clear Oil Controlling

Astringent Active Ingredients: Salicylic acid 0.5% Base ingredients: Water, Alcohol Functional Ingredients: Glycerin, PPG-5- Ceteth 20, Eucalyptus oil, Benzoic acid, camphor, peppermint oil, Clove oilPresevatives: Benzophenone-4, Denatonium

BenzoateDye: Yes

Concept and Prototype Generation Can product objectives be achieved

within company unit cost expectations?

You get what you pay for Vary active levels Functional Ingredients can become ascetic ingredients Fragrance is the most expensive

material, can vary dosage or quality

Concept and Prototype

Generation Another Alternative (This is the skill of a good

development chemist)

Look for alternative materials within the system

If that doesn’t work, Look for another system

Formulating the Prototype Project confirmed by Product manager Product Profile will be given (wish list) Review and evaluate functional aspects of

product Review and evaluate ascetic aspects of the

product in many cases you can satisfy desired

marketing strategies with ascetics Begin to source materials required (this is the

hardest job) Develop a system profile

The Search for Raw Materials Don’t underestimate the time required Read literature, trade magazines and

journals Read through all the trade show and

conference materials you store Look at patents See suppliers but don’t necessarily limit

the search through suppliers to the cosmetic industry

Keep the Merck Index handy

Formulating Considerations

Formulation is an art as much as it is a science

Processes and blending are a critical part of formulating

Think, try, think, try, think, try, then ask advice, then think, try again

General Formulating Hints

Saponification has to be a though process, otherwise there will be uneven neutralisation of acids, leaving free acids. This can lead to discolouration and even separation

The saponification process influences what materials can be added in what order

General Formulating Hints

Allowance have to be made for natural heating processes and colouration. Impurities tend to influence this.

Raw materials differ in specifications and qualities and adjustments have to be made for this

General Formulating Hints

Remember the production procedure has to be manageable and operated by shopfloor personal. If you are developing a complex procedure, break it down into parts.

General Formulating Hints Each raw material will have an effect on

another. Some chemicals combined create colouration, odouration, vary viscosities, combine with free agents and cause precipitation, or in drastic cases, splitting. It is essential to be aware of these effects. In many cases it is experience rather than theoretical knowledge that we learn these reactions

General Formulating Hints Choosing Surfactants Criteria: a) cleaning performance b) Storage stability c) Viscosity d) Foam generation e) Consumer safety f) Aesthetic appeal

General Formulating Hints Most cases have to use two because no

single surfactant can provide all of the characteristics required

Choose from non-ionic and anionic or amphoteric

Non-ionics tend to be harsh and need a softer surfactant

There are also synergistic effects from using two surfactants

Example: Shampoo

Primary Surfactant usually anionic Lauryl sulphates will differ in their

characteristics depending on the neutralising base

Lauyl Sulphate: Effect of different neutralising bases

Sodium Ammonian MonoEA DEA TEA

Lauryl Sulphate Lauryl Sulphate Lauryl Sulphate Lauryl Sulphate Lauryl Sulphate

Solubility Increases

Viscosity Decreases

Cold Storage Improves

Mildness Increases

Cost Increases

Secondary Surfactants

Characteristics of primary surfactant will be modified by secondary surfactant

Three general types to choose from: a) alkyl (amino) betaines b) alkanolamides c) Amine oxides

Effects of Secondary Surfactants on formulations

Main Features Disadvantages

Alkyl (amino) Mildness Betaines Foam Stability Price Viscosity Building

Amine Oxides Mildness Foam Stability Price Viscosity Building

Alkanolamides Foam Stability Viscosity Building Less Mild Cost

Formulating Fragrance into the Product Making up little more than 1.0% of the

formulation, fragrance is up to 70% the cost of the product formulation

Fragrance part of brand image both overtly and sublimely in the product

Fragrance compounding is a very specialised industry, so in 99% of cases fragrances are purchased, rather than manufactured by consumer product manufacturers

Formulating Fragrance into the Product Usually a fragrance house is given a product brief

outlining the objectives of the proposed new product. The product brief will contain: a) Product and intended use b) Position in Market c) Expectations from fragrance d) Scent profile required e) Production process anticipated for finished product f) Expected process temperatures g) Materials used in formulation h) required cost/kg i) dosage level

Formulating Fragrance into the Product

Fragrance companies are a major source of development work in a new product.

Before making submissions, they should test stability, colouration, effectiveness, overall appeal.

Formulating Fragrance into the Product Fragrances basically constructed with

base notes, middle notes and top notes.

Base notes are the least volatile and top notes are the most volatile

Aroma chemicals and essential oils have different flash and boiling points. This is a great consideration in selecting the right fragrance for a new product

Formulating Fragrance into the Product Dishwashing liquids will have fragrances made

up of mainly middle and top notes so there is no residual fragrance on dishes after washing

Laundry liquids will have lots of base and middle notes so they can survive a hot water wash

Gel air fresheners will have lots of base and middle notes to survive a hot production process. If the manufacture of a gel doesn’t use heat then more top notes can be incorporated into the fragrance

Efficacy Testing

New products will require some efficacy testing for presentation to the marketing arm of the organisation and in many cases (Thai & Vietnam FDA’s) product registration. If the product is a cosmetic or insecticide, efficacy information will have to be submitted at registration

Efficacy Testing

Depending on the product, different tests are required.

Sometimes we have to invent our own methods for unusual products like ant and cockroach repellents and then convince the FDA to accept the results.

Efficacy Testing

Standard tests for a shampoo would be as follows:

Laboratory Salon Consumer

Laboratory Evaluation Objective characteristics Anionic wash activity –methylene blue test Catatonic substance determination Solids content – Dry residue or

refractometer Viscosity –Brookfield Performance - Ross Miles foam height test - Draves-Shapiro tape wetting test

Salon Evaluation

Assessment on half head test against a benchmark

Various samples tested at one time Evaluation given on

rinse/combing/creaminess/fragrance

Consumer Testing

Tested against a consumer profile Undertaken through a workshop In-House

Product Registration

Product Registration has become much more strict around the world in the last 5 years

Next year all new products, including household cleaning require registration

Most countries have FDA type organisations

Product Registration

Generally the following registrations are required:

Cosmetics – registration through the Dept. Health

Insecticides – registration through the Department of Agriculture

Cosmetics and Therapeutic Goods

What is required dependent on the class of goods

Main criteria determining the class of goods is the claims made on the product

Another criteria is the substances the product contains

Cosmetics and Therapeutic Goods

Basic Criteria Examined Ingredients Efficacy according to claims made Toxicity GMP

Insecticides

Through Dept Agriculture Fall under definition of an

insecticide a) specifically declared to be an

agricultural chemical product b) Contents of Formulation c) Claims made about the product

Packaging Design As during the MPP phase the same considerations

apply, but these must be tested for stability using various techniques

Formulation is compatible with proposed packaging

Considerations here for the formulator are:a) Is the nature of the product compatible with the

proposed packaging?b) What product bulk densities will be required?c) Can the product be filled efficiently during

production?d) Will the proposed packaging effect product

stability?

Packaging Design PVC materials are extremely susceptible

to high alkalis and solvents Some formulations that release gases

over time (bleach) must have some an outlet to equalise pressure with the atmosphere

Synerethesis can occur in gels and create moisture leakage

Clear packaging will change some overtime dyes by allowing constant UV light to effect product

Manufacturing System Design Major Issues Is the proposed manufacturing process

compatible with the formulation? Will a new process need to be

engineered and developed? What modifications to the product

formula will have to be made, if any? What type of filling equipment is

needed?

Is the proposed manufacturing process compatible with the formulation? Powders

Issues Bulk densities Moisture in powder products

Powders – Dry Blending

Powders – Dry Blending

Advantages – Low investment Disadvantages – large particle size high moisture content Limits to amount of

liquids that can be incorporated

Powders – Spray Drying

Powders – Spray Drying

Advantages – uniform product Low moisture content Soft fluffy feel

Disadvantage – massive investment

Liquids

Various forms of mixers are used for manufacturing different products, depending on characteristics

Gate Mixer

Gate Mixer

Viscous Liquids Do not want aeration Some Saponifications

Centrifugal Mixer

Centrifugal Mixer

Low viscous liquids where aeration is not an issue

Products with high percentage of solvents

Filling Equipment

Packaging

Good Manufacturing Practice

GMP is a set of guidelines for the manufacture of pharmaceutical and cosmetic products

Manufactured and imported products have to comply with set standards and procedures

Marketing Review

This is the time when target markets are focused upon and minor modifications to packaging or formulation may be made because of panel testing

Test Market Test Marketing in a domestic market

is very rare today: - concentration of retailers - companies tend to have regional

or global product strategiesTest markets tend to be in a region or

number of countries before a regional or global launch is made

Refining Product Before Major Launch When products have been tested in a single

country or region, there will be final refining of the product before major launch

These refinements have more to do with different markets, than technical issues

Fragrances may be modified to suit a particular market

Packaging changes may be modified Branding may be changed Some raw materials may be changed due to

local regulations or availability or cost factor

Attributes of a Good Cosmetic Chemist Has initiative to conceptualise new product systems Is well read and conversed with raw materials Understands strengths and limitations of various raw

materials Continually surveys market, environment and industry

for new developments Willing to undertake laborious lab work Able to take a market orientation when developing

products Able to communicate effectively to others within the

organisation Is well versed in manufacturing processes Understands product costing and able to formulate

accordingly

Why do Companies Need New Product development?

Regulations change forcing product changes

Disallowing of phenols required change to QACs

Banning of paraquats in herbicides

Why do Companies Need New Product development? Lifestyles are continually changing Rural/urban drift decreased need for

mosquito coils Less time at home and health

developed consumer interest in Shower gels

Growth in leisure activities and awareness of skin cancer developed demand for sunscreens

Why do Companies Need New Product development?

To improve their market positioning and market-share

Don’t necessarily want new products, want enhancements to claim benefits over competitors

An Enhancement?

Another Enhancement?

New technologies Require new Product Development

New Technologies which lead to new chemicals can force companies to develop new formultions

Materials are less toxic Materials are cheaper Materials perform better

Changing Fragrance Technology Illustration of ‘Lily of the Valley’ Fragrance

1800’s to present day 19th Century Present Tuberose Extract 21oz Hydroxycitronellal 35.0 Jasmin Extract 3oz Rhodinol 18.0 Rose Extract 2oz Linalool 14.5 Orange Flower Extract 2oz Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 12.0 Spirit of Rose 2oz Geraniol 4.5 Essence of Vanilla 2oz Di Methyl Benzyl Cabinal Ylang Ylang No. 1 ½ oz Acetate 4.5 Bergamot ½ oz Amyl Cinnamic aldehyde 3.6 Boi de Rose Extract ¼ oz Lillial (Giv) 2.0 Iso Eugenol 0.5 Phenylacetaldhyde DA 0.2 Benyzl Benzoate 4.2 Indole (10% sol.) 1.0

Product Evolution

There a predictable product evolution in every category, governed by changing technology, consumer tastes and lifestyles and supermarkets increasing cost of shelf space

A lot of new products come out of this evolution and travel from one international market to another

The Laundry Cleaning Family Tree1800’s blau R&C

1850’s Soap Bars P&G

1920’s Soap Powder Persil – P&G

1950’s Detergent Powder Tide – P&G

1970’s Low Built Laundry Liquids AURA – R&C

1980’s Fully Built Laundry Liquid Dynamo – Colgate

Mid 80’s Concentrated Laundry Powder Dynamo –Colgate

2002 Ultra Liquids

Failed Evolution – Laundry Detergent Tablets

UKM’s New Cosmetic Chemists?